Category Wildlife and Nature

Lonely Planet’s team of writers and editors answer a lot of travel questions, providing tips and hacks to help you plan a hassle-free trip. We thought this question would be perfect for LP author Kerry Walker, who’s long been obsessed with cold, remote places, snow and the northern lights.

Question: We are planning a winter break to the Arctic, but are undecided whether to go for Finland, Norway or Sweden. Where would you recommend? Also, we know that there is no guarantee of seeing the northern lights. What else is there to do?

Kerry Walker: Observing the northern lights flash away in night skies is a moment you’ll treasure forever. But you can’t buy tickets, and the aurora borealis doesn’t perform at the click of a finger (or the click of a booking button). While the unpredictability of the lights is an intrinsic part of their beauty, it can be incredibly frustrating if you’ve pinned your hopes on seeing them and have invested time and money in journeying all the way to the Arctic, and they are a no-show. 

But before you brace yourself for disappointment, know that there are several ways you can increase the odds, and plenty of other things to do if the lights don’t materialize during your visit.

The long dark winter nights are the best times to see the northern lights 

The northern lights shine at polar latitudes from September to April – but your best chance is to visit during the dark days and long nights of the Polar Night (late November to mid-January), when the sun doesn’t rise above the horizon. Where you go matters: pick a base positioned right under the aurora oval, which forms a ring around the earth’s geomagnetic North Pole. The remoter and darker, the better. After that, it’s down to luck: how clear the skies are, and how strong solar activity is.

Narrow down your choices of places to go in the Arctic

The choice of where to go is boundless. Finland tends to be a bit more competitive price-wise (especially if you can land a deal outside of peak Santa season in December) and easier to access (with direct flights to Rovaniemi). Norway wins when it comes to big, in-your-face mountains, while Sweden charms with its remote, little-visited wilds.

Plan your Arctic experiences

It’s important that you don’t make seeing the northern lights the be-all and end-all of a trip to the Arctic. They are a bonus, not a given. Plan a trip that you would happily take regardless of whether or not the lights shine. Trust me – it’s magical up there either way. Envisage the Arctic, and you might picture a bleak white wilderness. But it’s actually insanely beautiful: the pastel light of would-be sunrises and sunsets; the pristine snow and ice formations; the frozen forests, fells and mountains.

And there are many ways to harness this beauty. Winter in the Arctic doesn’t mean hibernating and huddling under reindeer hides. It means bundling up in thermals, snowsuits and boots and diving into the snow – whether you go for Lapland in Finland, Arctic Sweden or Norway.

Even villages that are little more than specks on the map often have a blizzard of activities on offer, from snowmobiling and dogsledding to reindeer-driven sleigh rides, ice fishing, snowshoeing, skiing (downhill and cross-country), sea kayaking and ice floating (yep, it’s a thing). These activities aren’t just aimed at tourists; locals embrace them too.

Planning tip: The temptation is to do it all. But before you overcram your itinerary, keep in mind the harsh elements and extreme cold. Go for a less-is-more approach, with one big activity a day, and you’ll have time to appreciate the place, watch wildlife, and absorb the silence and majesty of the Arctic.

Traveling with a tour group can help manage the budget

If you don’t mind traveling in a small group, guided holidays abound and some can save you a fortune, especially if you’re planning lots of activities. Arctic-savvy companies include Intrepid, Exodus, Much Better Adventures and Responsible Travel, the Aurora Zone and Discover the World. The advantage of booking a package is that you know what you’re paying up front, as most cover flights, transfers, accommodation, meals and activities.

Going it alone gives greater flexibility

If you’re planning an individual trip, the Arctic is your oyster. You might not have considered Finnish Lapland for skiing, with fells topping out at a modest 1000m (3281ft) – but you really should. Crowds are few and properly cold polar winters deliver dreamy powder for cross-country, downhill and off-piste skiing in resorts like Levi and Ylläs. For more peace, stray further north to the likes of Saariselkä, the gateway to the Narnia-like wilds of Urho Kekkonen National Park, or Pallas-Yllästunturi National Park rubbing up against the Swedish border, for a gulp of the world’s cleanest air and every adventurous pursuit you can shake a snowball at.

The harder-to-reach Arctic is wild and wonderful

Swedish Lapland is less well known and a bit trickier to reach (a flight to Stockholm, then a connection to Kiruna). But my, is it lovely – particularly if you base yourself somewhere like Abisko, which borders a phenomenally wild national park and has carved out a reputation for some of the world’s best northern lights with its Aurora Sky Station. In Jukkasjärvi, the original Icehotel, carved afresh each year, is a destination in itself, and a wonderland of Arctic activities, from dogsledding to Sámi reindeer encounters, cross-country skiing, ice fishing, snowmobiling, moose safaris and northern lights photography workshops.

Norway is just as bewitching, and throws whopping great mountains into the equation. The islands have the scenic edge – try Lofoten or Senja, or head to Rebbenesøya, just north of easily reached Tromsø, for Arctic camping and winter kayaking, skiing and snowshoeing at Elements Arctic Camp. Midway between Norway and the North Pole and home to more polar bears than people, Svalbard still feels the way it must have to those early intrepid explorers, especially when you head out into the snowy wilds on a multiday dogsledding or snowmobiling expedition.

There’s another way to increase your chances…

Are you determined to see the lights no matter what? Hop on a Hurtigruten Cruise. During the auroral season, the company offers a Northern Lights Promise on voyages of over 11 nights – which means that if the northern lights fail to appear, you get a free week-long northbound voyage or 6-day southbound trip to give it another shot.

Ski resorts are a lot like snowflakes – no two are the same. Skiers in Canada and the USA have seemingly endless choices for schussing, carving, gliding or French-frying down the slopes. And that’s just the skiing –there’s also the apres ski scene, the lodgings, the restaurants, the shopping and the overall vibe to consider. Choices, choices…

As you start making plans for winter, it’s easy to become overwhelmed by the dizzying array of options out there. To help you decide where to spend your winter vacation, we’ve put together this guide to some of the best ski destinations in North America. Here’s where to go.

1. Schweitzer, Idaho, USA

Best for tree skiing and epic views

Idaho may be best known for its potatoes, but the Gem State also has great skiing, with more than a dozen uncrowded, laid-back resorts to choose from. One of our favorites is Schweitzer, a 2900-acre winter playground located in the Idaho Panhandle, roughly 60 miles south of the Canadian border.

Schweitzer is the largest ski area in all of Idaho. Its spaciousness, coupled with the fact that the closest major airport is just 90 minutes away in Spokane, Washington, means you never have to worry about waiting in a long lift line. The drive from Spokane is also easy and beautiful.

Schweitzer has more than 1200 trees dotting its slopes, so if you love carving in and out of snow-dusted forests, this is your place. Perhaps the best part? On a bluebird day, you’ll have a clear view of the sparkling waters of Lake Pend Oreille from the top. Framed by snow-dusted evergreens and rolling hills, the scene could have been plucked straight off a picture postcard. And, according to legend, the lake is home to the notorious “Pend Oreille Paddler,” similar to Scotland’s Loch Ness monster.

Planning tip: Book a room at Humbird, a new boutique hotel that opened in Schweitzer’s base area in 2022. All 31 of Humbird’s contemporary, Scandinavian-inspired rooms face southeast and they have massive picture windows, so you can continue admiring Lake Pend Oreille long after you’ve hung up your skis for the day. Staying at Humbird, you can easily head into Sandpoint, Idaho, for après-ski drinks or dinner, and you won’t have to worry about schlepping your gear back up the hill the next morning.

2. Banff Sunshine Village, Alberta, Canada

Best for northern lights and tasty Canadian treats

More people visit Banff in the summer, but powder-hounds choose winter for their trips to this Alberta mountain town. Aside from ice skating on Lake Louise and soaking in the geothermal waters of Banff Upper Hot Springs, you can also hop between three different ski areas located inside Banff National Park.

Banff Sunshine Village, Lake Louise Ski Resort and Mt Norquay each have their own vibe. If you have to pick just one, make it Banff Sunshine Village – this 3300-acre swath of ski country is perched atop the Continental Divide of the Canadian Rockies, on the border between Alberta and British Columbia. If you ride the Great Divide chairlift, you’ll be able to say you visited both provinces!

Because it has so little light pollution, Banff Sunshine Village is also an ideal place to stay up late and watch for the northern lights. The aurora borealis dances across the night sky here so frequently that the resort even has a dedicated “aurora cam” broadcasting the show. For the best chances of spotting the aurora, book a room at Sunshine Mountain Lodge, the resort’s only ski-in, ski-out hotel. 

Planning tip: If you get hungry on the slopes, glide down the Banff Avenue run until you spot the small, bright red BeaverTails shack. Here, you can treat yourself to a quintessentially Canadian pastry dusted with cinnamon and sugar (The Classic) or smothered in decadent toppings, like chocolate hazelnut spread or apple pie filling.

3. Beaver Creek Resort, Colorado, USA

Best for mellow skiing and top-notch culinary adventures

Beaver Creek Resort often gets overshadowed by its larger, more famous sister, Vail, but while both are fun, if you’re looking for a slightly more mellow vibe and you appreciate good food and drink, make Beaver Creek your home base. You can easily buzz between the two, and both are included on the Epic Pass.

After shredding Beaver Creek’s 2082 acres of snowy terrain by day, head down to the base area around 3pm, otherwise known as “Cookie Time.” Every afternoon, chefs come around holding platters of warm, ooey-gooey chocolate chip cookies that are totally free. It’s the perfect pre-après-ski snack.

Afterward, ditch your ski boots but leave your coat on for dinner at Beano’s, a rustic, fine-dining cabin located right on Beaver Creek’s slopes. To get here, you’ll need to climb aboard a sleigh attached to a snowcat, but don’t worry about being too chilly – the ride is just 20 minutes long, and there are blankets in the sleigh. Plus, on clear nights, you’ll be too busy stargazing to notice the chill. On arrival at Beano’s, warm up by the massive stone fireplace, then tuck into decadent, seasonal dishes inspired by the surrounding peaks. 

Planning tip: If you’re skiing with little ones, be sure to drop by the Candy Cabin, which has bins, barrels and dispensers full of sweet treats. Visiting this magical, on-mountain spot will probably be the highlight of their entire week.

4. Snowbasin Resort, Utah, USA

Best for unleashing your inner Olympian and stargazing

Still buzzing from the Paris Olympics and thinking about the winter version in 2026? Get a taste of Olympic snow at Snowbasin Resort, located in Huntsville, Utah, roughly an hour north of Salt Lake City.

When Salt Lake hosted the 2002 Winter Olympics, the men’s and women’s downhill, super-G and combined races were held at Snowbasin. So when you visit, you can ski the same slopes as Olympians did, even if you don’t go quite as fast! Salt Lake City has been selected to host the 2034 Winter Olympics, so Snowbasin will be back in the spotlight as an official Olympic skiing venue before too long.

When your legs need a break, relax in one of Snowbasin’s luxuriously over-the-top lodges, which feature tall ceilings, stone fireplaces, massive windows, chandeliers and rustic-chic decor. Check out the bathrooms – posh granite floors, Italian light fixtures, wood paneling, plush furniture and ultra-private stalls make these the poshest restrooms you’ll find in any ski area, anywhere. 

Planning tip: Snowbasin doesn’t have any on-mountain lodging, but the slopes are just a 10-minute drive from downtown Huntsville. Check into the Compass Rose Lodge, an intimate boutique hotel with its own observatory and powerful telescopes. As soon as you decide the dates of your trip, book a “star walk” tour at the hotel so you can admire galaxies, nebulae, constellations and planets before falling into bed. 

5. Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, Wyoming, USA

Best for wildlife sightings 

If your Netflix history is nonstop wildlife documentaries, start planning a trip to Jackson Hole Mountain Resort ASAP. Located in far western Wyoming, this 2500-acre ski area is known for its gnarly, ruggedly steep slopes and huge powder dumps. Its bright red aerial tram is also iconic, whisking skiers up 4139 vertical feet in less than 10 minutes.

But there’s so much more to do and see here besides skiing. Just outside of downtown Jackson, you’ll find the National Elk Refuge, a federal site that protects more than 24,000 acres of wildlife-filled wilderness. As the name suggests, elk are abundant on the refuge, and so are wolves, coyotes, bighorn sheep, ermine, trumpeter swans, birds of prey and waterfowl. During the winter, you can admire these animals from the comfort of a horse-drawn sleigh as it glides across the snow. 

For even more wildlife viewing opportunities, head to Grand Teton National Park, which is even more magical and serene in the winter. For a dash of arts and culture, check out the National Museum of Wildlife Art in Jackson, which has more than 5000 pieces of animal art in its collection.

Planning tip: If skiing is your top priority, book slope-side accommodations in Teton Village (we rate Hotel Terra and Teton Mountain Lodge & Spa). If you plan on exploring beyond the slopes, check into a more centrally located hotel in downtown Jackson, like the Alpine House, Anvil Hotel or Cache House. For a splurge, treat yourself to a few nights at Amangani, an ultra-luxury property where you might rub elbows with a celebrity or two.

6. Steamboat Ski Resort, Colorado, USA

Best for Wild West vibes and adrenaline-pumping events

The snow at Steamboat Ski Resort in Colorado is so light, so fluffy, so perfect in fact that the ski area dubbed it “Champagne Powder” and got the name trademarked (no joke). White stuff aside, Steamboat Springs should also be high on your winter bucket list because of its something-for-everyone skiing and Wild West vibes.

The resort has more than 3741 acres of terrain that ranges from accessible and beginner-friendly slopes to hardcore, expert-only stuff. And if you really want to challenge yourself, Steamboat added 650 additional acres of advanced and expert slopes that were previously out of bounds in 2023.

Pack a cowboy hat and boots, if you’ve got them, because Steamboat is also brimming with Western charm. Watch professional rodeo cowboys zoom down the slopes during the annual Cowboy Downhill, then retreat to Vista Verde Guest Ranch for an authentic (and luxurious) dude ranch experience. If you need to freshen up your wardrobe while you’re here, head to FM Light & Sons, a historic, fifth-generation Western apparel shop that’s been open since 1905. 

Planning tip: Don’t miss the Steamboat Winter Carnival, which has been going strong since 1914. The schedule is jam-packed with fun activities, but one of the highlights is the skijoring race down Lincoln Avenue, Steamboat’s main downtown street. Watch skiers get pulled by horses at top speed while trying to navigate jumps, gates, turns, cones and other obstacles.

Honorable mentions

There’s plenty more snow in them thar hills. Here are more of our favorites.

• Mammoth Mountain: Lots of powder and towering lodgepole pines in California’s Eastern Sierra.

• Stowe Resort: A glitzy, New England ski area with tons of history.

• Aspen Snowmass: Four Colorado ski resorts that cater to a high-end clientele.

• Park City Mountain Resort: A humongous Utah ski area with more than 7300 acres of diverse terrain.

• Club Med Charlevoix: A rare all-inclusive ski resort in Québec, Canada, where you don’t have to worry about unexpected costs once you arrive.

• Palisades Tahoe: An iconic Lake Tahoe spot that hosted the 1960 Winter Olympics and recently changed its name from Squaw Valley.

• Whistler Blackcomb: A sprawling British Columbia resort with more than 8000 acres of snow.

Paganism is experiencing a global revival as more people are reconnecting with nature. Cities such as New Orleans, US; Edinburgh, Scotland; and Drogheda, Ireland, have commercialized their pagan festivals. However, there are still places where ancient celebrations continue in their original form, preserved as locally-kept secrets passed down through generations.

These festivals preserve age-old customs, which often originate from traditions and practices that predate the arrival of Christianity. While the more serious pagan festivals observed today consist of Mabon and Yule, these five lesser-known festivals are an excellent opportunity to experience the culture of the local community and gain insights into pagan tradition. 

1. The Burryman Procession, South Queensferry, Scotland 

Covered entirely in prickly burdock seedheads and adorned with a crown of flowers, the Burryman and his procession of bagpipe players and bell ringers have walked the streets of South Queensferry every August for over nine hundred years, making this the oldest festival in Scotland. The oldest official record of the Burryman Festival goes back to 1687, when the festival was officially recognized.  Although the meaning behind this tradition is unknown, the Burryman is believed to be the Scottish interpretation of the Green Man, a pagan nature spirit representing rebirth and fertility, and whose presence wards off evil. 

Only a male born in South Queensferry can become the Burryman. Considered a great honor, those selected often hold the position for many years. In the weeks leading up to the procession, the chosen man must hand-pick the thousands of burrs that will be used for his costume. The burrs are then stuck on to fabric panels, and on the morning of the big day, the panels are carefully applied to the man until he is fully engulfed in a suit of burrs. The Burryman is aided by a team of assistants, who keep his arms propped up on decorated staffs and escort him as he hobbles slowly through the town, a journey that lasts for nine hours. Along the way, onlookers bestow the Burryman with gifts of money and drams of whisky so that he will bring them good luck. 

Where and when?

The Burryman Procession is held on the second Friday of August in South Queensferry, Scotland. 

2. Fêtes de L’Ours (Festival of the Bears), Prats-de-Mollo-la-Preste, Pyrénées-Orientales, France

Symbolic of the age-old struggle between man and nature, the wild tradition of the Fêtes de L’Ours has been held in Pyrenees villages for centuries, tracing its origins back to the arctolatry – or bear cult worship – practiced by pre-Christian Basques. In Prats-de-Mollo-la-Preste, host to the oldest of the bear festivals, participants reenact the legend of a young shepherdess kidnapped by a lecherous bear. The young girl prayed for protection of her virtue to the nearby Notre Dame du Coral cathedral, which greatly displeased the bear. For nine days he howled in revulsion outside of his cave, attracting the attention of nearby woodcutters, as well as a farm boy and the hermit of Notre Dame du Coral. While the farm boy and the hermit came to the shepherdess’ rescue, the woodcutters tracked down and killed the bear. 

The festival begins at Fort Lagarde on the hill above the village, where a feast is held for the men who have been chosen to play the bears. The chosen are then sewn into sheepskin costumes, and every visible patch of skin is blackened with a thick mixture of oil and soot. Wielding long wooden staffs, the costumed bears let out a deafening roar and race down the hill, tackling people – women seem to attract the most attention – along the way, smearing their victims with soot. Down into the village’s winding maze of cobbled streets, the bears are pursued by hunters into the village square, where they are finally chained up and “shaved,” returning to their human forms. The festivities close with people dancing in a frenzy until someone lets off a single gunshot, signaling the festivities are coming to a close.

Where and when?

The Fêtes de L’Ours is held on the second Sunday in February in Prats-de-Mollo-la-Preste, France. Be sure to wear old clothes – chances are you will get attacked! 

3. Harvest Home, Whalton, England

Until about one hundred years ago, it was a common practice in rural communities throughout the United Kingdom to celebrate a bountiful harvest with a ritual known as the Harvest Home. At the end of the season, the last of the corn sheaves would be cut down and fashioned into the likeness of a woman, known as the Kern Baby. Dressed in an elegant white gown, ribbons and flowers woven into the ears of corn bursting from her head, the Kern Baby would be hoisted onto the top of a large pole; the community would gather round and dance below the effigy, then enjoy a great feast – farmers and laborers sharing the same table.  

The tradition of the Harvest Home is believed to have originated in ancient Rome. In honor of Ceres, the goddess of agriculture, farmers would weave dolls out of the last of the gathered corn and display them in their fields. The dolls served as vessels to hold Ceres after the fields were reaped so that her spirit would not go astray. 

Today, the village of Whalton in northern England is the last stronghold of this ancient custom, holding a bonfire – or Baal fire – to mark the end of the harvest, and since 2016 it has been home to a 15ft Kern Baby. The festival, in addition to having many of the trappings you’d expect from a harvest festival, also typically has classic car exhibits and other fascinating displays. 

Where and when? 

The Baal Fire and Kern Baby dance are held on July 4 in Whalton, England.

4. Fasnacht, Kriens, Switzerland

During the month of Lent, Switzerland comes alive with a wild cacophony of masquerades, pageants, and marching bands, dispelling the oppressive spirits of winter and allowing for one last indulgence before fasting begins on Ash Wednesday. Carnival – or Fasnacht – has been celebrated in Switzerland for centuries, and although modern Fasnachts favor elaborate costumes and pop culture motifs, historically participants wore old clothes and simplistic hand-carved wooden masks. The festival dates back to 1376 and is a recognized cultural event by UNESCO.

The city of Kriens has preserved these masking traditions. The earliest known Kriens masks – or Hübelimasken – date back to the eighteenth century and were crudely made with rudimentary features. The Hübelimasken became more sophisticated over time and began combining pagan symbolism with caricatures of common figures from the region. This eventually led to the creation of the four beloved characters unique to the Kriens Fasnacht: “Wöschwyb” – the washerwoman; “Krienser Deckel” – the French soldier; “Buuremaa” – the farmer; and “Bärnerwiib” – the Bernese courtesan. Each character has its own distinct personality: the cheeky Wöschwyb likes to gossip, while the lascivious Bärnerwiib lifts up her skirts and purrs at the crowd. The Krienser Deckel, with his elongated hat of red-painted tree bark, plays the dual role of villainous soldier and forest spirit, while the grumpy Buuremaa stomps along the parade route, frightening onlookers. In the past, only men were involved in Fasnacht, however today all genders are allowed to participate.  

Where and when? 

Fasnacht is held between Dirty Thursday and Carnival Tuesday, prior to Ash Wednesday, in Kriens, Switzerland. 

5. Gody Zywieckie, Zywiec, Poland

In the pre-dawn dark on New Year’s day, in the mountain town of Zywiec, a troop of colorfully-dressed men in conical hats and sheepskin masks race along the streets. These men are known as the Grandfathers – or Jukace –come to usher in the festivities of Gody Zywieckie, an ancient Slavic-pagan masquerade, heralding the end of winter.

The Jukace begin running on New Year’s Eve, going from party to party, accepting gifts of vodka, sweets, and money in return for good blessings. After attending a 5am Mass, the Jukace resume their sojourn around the city, jumping, dancing, and cracking their whips, embracing passersby and shouting well-wishes into the cold morning air. Gody Zywieckie culminates at noon with a parade in the center of the city. 

The Jukace are seen as figures of good luck, their running symbolic of chasing away bad spirits and the old year. However, the origins of the characters are unknown. A popular local legend is that during the Deluge of 1655, Zywiec Highlanders dressed up as monsters and charged down the mountainside, frightening the invading Swedish army with their otherworldly looks and the crack of their whips, and allowed King John II Casimir of Poland to escape.

To become a Jukace is an arduous process; prospective applicants start as young as eight years old and work their way up the ranks of masquerade characters – Babka (old woman), Chimney Sweep, Imp – to become a Jukace. Even then, only bachelors are eligible and must undergo tests for strength, agility, and memory to determine whether or not they are right for the role. 

Where and when? 

Gody Zywieckie is celebrated on New Year’s Eve and New Year’s Day in Zywiec, Poland. 

Pagan festivals: dates, tips and etiquette

What dates do pagans observe for celebration and worship?

There is no singly accepted calendar for pagan holidays and ritualistic celebrations. Just like there is some discrepancy between various Christian sects over the observance of Christmas, with some celebrating the holiday in January and not December, there are also discrepancies over what holidays are observed and when pagans celebrate them. But, you can use the Wheel of the Year as a general guide as to when and how pagans choose to practice their faith on their holidays. 

The Wheel of the Year divides the calendar into eight key points, such as Imbolc, Litha, Samhain and Yule. Each celebration honors the changing seasons, nature and the spirits surrounding us. For travelers seeking to experience rich, time-honored traditions, these festivals provide a meaningful connection to history and the natural world. 

Several smaller festivals and celebrations are within these larger, high holy days, such as Imbolc and Samhain. Imbolc is typically observed in early February, while Samhain is observed on what most people call Halloween, October 31st. These major holidays are known as Greater Sabbats (the pagan word for a holiday), while the solar festivals are known as Lesser Sabbats, which include Ostara and Yule. 

In 2025, the major holidays of the pagan Wheel of the Year will fall on the following dates: 

• Lammas (Lughnasadh/Lughnasa): August 1st

• Mabon (Fall Equinox): September 21st 

• Samhain (All Hallows): October 31st

• Yule (Winter Solstice): December 21st

• Imbolc (Candlemas): February 2nd

• Ostara (Spring Equinox): March 21st

• Beltane (May Day): May 1st

• Litha/Midsummer: June 21st

Between these holidays are several small festivals and feast days, which can be location-specific or tied to pre-Christian cultures. But these less prominent festivals aren’t as universally recognized as the major pagan holidays listed above and are more obscure and locally observed. 

Some of these celebrations include the following: 

• Tschäggättu, Switzerland: 

• Rauhnacht, Germany

• Dionysia, Greece

• Saturnalia, Rome/Greece

While many of these festivals are originally from Europe, many people across the globe of all races choose to add these celebrations to their pagan calendar. 

Are Pagan festivals open to anyone who wants to participate?

In most instances, anyone who wishes to attend a pagan event, festival or Sabbat is welcome to join. In fact, many Wiccans and neo-pagan groups like to have new people come to their events because it dispels some of the rumors that surround their practices. Newbies can find groups hosting meet-ups on social media, blogs and other online media, and there aren’t any strict rules you need to follow to attend most meetings. 

What do I need to know about pagan festival etiquette? 

Respect is essential in pagan communities, and many practitioners place great value on the principle of asking for permission. For most pagans and Wiccans, a central tenet of their belief is: “Do what you will, as long as it harms none.” This guiding philosophy encourages personal freedom but also emphasizes the importance of mindfulness and consideration for others and the natural world.

So when planning to visit a pagan festival or sabbat, it’s smart to keep a few things in mind, so you can be respectful: 

• Always ask permission: never touch someone else’s magic or ritualistic items. This could be their crystals, wands, crystal balls, tarot cards or any other items they have with them. Many pagans believe these devices have special powers and can become contaminated when others handle or use them. 

• Be honest: pagan communities appreciate honesty. They want you to speak up and not feel pressured to do something you’re uncomfortable with.

• Protect their privacy: paganism is growing in popularity around the globe, but it’s still on the fringes of society. Some pagans are open about their faith, but many still worry about how their religion may impact their lives. When and if they pronounce their faith to the world is their decision, so never share the identity of a pagan unless they tell you you can. 

You might also like:

Walk through England’s pagan past on the country’s oldest road
Kurentovanje: the wildest Mardi Gras celebration you’ve never heard of
The best Bonfire Night celebrations in England

Professional surfers, photographers and writersshare their favorite places to surf in Europe.

Many would say that when it comes to surfing, we live in a post-exploration era in which even the most remote, difficult-to-get to breaks hold at least whispers of others having visited before you.

And while some surfers mourn this loss of discovery, many more are celebrating the very compelling upside: more waves. The truth is that surfing is more democratic than ever. There may be less in the way of surf discovery, but we are in a golden era for surf travel.

In Lonely Planet’s handy book, Epic Surf Breaks of the World, professional surfers, photographers and surf writers share what makes these top European surfing spots so special to them.

1. Unstad Bay, Norway

Some surfers seek out bigger swells to test themselves. Surf photographer Chris Burkard preferred to journey beyond the Arctic Circle to the north of Norway.

“My body screamed in pain as hot water from the shower rained down on me. I was trying desperately to get the feeling back in my hands. I later learned that re-warming is a slow process, and trying to speed that up can cause serious nerve damage. It is perhaps the most valuable thing I learned on that first trip – I have been back here three times since, and am almost always on the verge of frostbite when I visit.

“Sitting out in the water there, I feel a deep sensation of just how small I am within nature. There’s so much beauty in the Lofotens, but there’s also mystery. These old rocks with their tiny, craggy bays, complex fjords and idyllic towns have hidden and protected some of the world’s hardiest men, women and children for the last couple of thousand years.

“Here, a 6mm wetsuit isn’t much different than Viking battle armor. Because let’s be honest, when you enter that water in Unstad Bay, you are going to war.”

Type of wave: Beach break, left and right point break.

Things to know: The average water temperature is around 12°F (-11°C) toward the end of summer, and 6°F (-14°C) in April. You’ll need a thick hooded wetsuit, boots and gloves (a 6/5mm in April). Between November and February, there is little daylight, but between mid-April and August you can surf almost 24/7.

Looking for other fantastic places to visit in Norway? Here’s our guide to the best

2. Thurso, Scotland

For British surf photographer Al Mackinnon, the barrels of Thurso, Scotland, were as elusive as Nessie. But since he first spotted them, he’s known exactly where – and when – to look.

“A year or two later, I made the drive once again. This time things were markedly different. The first thing I noticed was that the bay was dead calm, like a millpond. I thought I’d been hoaxed once again. Then I noticed a bloke unsheathing a 7ft pintail made for riding big tubes, and another bloke waxing up a semi-gun.

“The water at Holborn Head, the point behind Thurso where swells pass before arriving at the reef, turned dark. Soon there were lines discernible inside the bay. Then, an immaculately groomed set arrived, thick and moving at formidable speed. Each swell hit the reef and thundered down the line with incredible precision and ferocity. It was double overhead and, yes, barrelling all the way with thick, serrated lips.

“That set and the ensuing two days of swell changed the course of my life. I may have already been on a trajectory toward melding my two greatest passions – waves and photography – but it was the perfection I witnessed at Thurso East that sealed the deal.”

Type of wave: Right reef break.

Things to know: Surfing in Scotland has boomed in recent years, so don’t expect to have its premiere wave all to yourself. However, there is a plethora of waves around, some of them completely devoid of crowds.

Pick the right time for your visit to Scotland with our seasonal guide

3. La Gravière, France

Brendan Buckley visited Biarritz in France for crepes and café au lait. But after sampling Hossegor’s famous pounding beach break – La Gravière – he decided to move there for good.

“Hossegor is the epicenter of wave riding on the European continent, hosting the entire spectrum of surfers: long-haired longboarders with groovy vans; performance-obsessed short boarders, who do jumping jacks in spring suits; old men who shred; little girls who shred. While Biarritz – the larger, more famous city, some 40 minutes to the south – also has some great surf, it doesn’t get the world-class waves of Hossegor.

“All kinds of surfers make a pilgrimage to La Gravière, either to paddle out and take on the notoriously fast, barrelling beach break, or just to stare out at the bombs as they detonate so close to the sand it’s hard to imagine getting a few turns in. You’ve probably heard so much about ‘La Grav’ that you feel like you’ve seen it or surfed it even if you’ve never been to France. It’s a wave that surfers gravitate toward, regardless of what the reports tell them.”

Type of wave: Barreling beach break with rights and lefts.

Things to know: There’s a cliché about the waves in France: if you check the surf and it’s firing, you’re already too late. And it’s true. Tides are massive here and they can turn a wave on and off within an hour. Keep your options open and never be too stubborn to paddle down the beach.

Exploring more of France’s coastline? Here’s our guide to the country’s best beaches

4. Staithes, England

Alf Alderson likes the fact that England’s best reef break is a little too far north for the masses. But as one of the UK’s greatest hits, most surfers eventually make the trip.

“These days, surfers come from all over the UK for the three fast, powerful reef breaks that rear up here from the murky waters of the North Sea. Northerly groundswells that may well have traveled all the way from the Arctic grind ashore in Staithes after being funneled down and diverted shorewards. Occasionally, those waves then encounter prevailing offshore winds. And, presto, Staithes starts firing.

“Most of my trips to Staithes unfold under a backdrop of sea and sky, blended in a grey-brown wash, an atmosphere where the thrill of anticipation is tempered by the somber scenery and the chilly waters. Regardless of the weather, something funny happens when a great wave comes along. Taking off on one of the bowly lefts that mark The Cove, feeling that weightless drop before hooning along the face and seeing the lip of a barrel unfurl in front of me, I feel like I could be in Portugal.”

Type of wave: Left-hand reef breaks on shallow reefs.

Things to know: The ideal equipment is a high-performance shortboard, or a semi-gun for bigger days. A minimum 5/4 mm wetsuit, or thicker for winter, is recommended, as are booties and a hood.

Hitting the road while you’re in England? Here are our top driving routes

5. Nazaré, Portugal

The sea has provided for the people of Nazaré, Portugal, for centuries, and the tradition continues with Big Wave tourism. Portuguese photographer Ricardo Bravo has witnessed this evolution.

“In general, the beaches around here are considered to be best avoided. Most families from Nazaré make their living from fishing, and many have lost someone to these wild seas. Nazaré’s main village beach, Praia da Vila, was already considered extremely dangerous. Further north, Praia do Norte, where the swell often triples in size and power, seemed like a piece of hell on earth.

“And as much as I admire those who come to ride Praia do Norte, it’s the ocean and its magnificent shapes that leave me awestruck every time I witness it break. In my years of traveling the world, I’ve never seen anything remotely similar to the waves of Nazaré: they are powerful, raw, unpredictable and frightening. Even if surfers manage to ride them for brief moments of glory, these giants will always be indomitable.”

Type of wave: Right- and left-hand beach break, anything from 3ft to 50ft-plus.

Things to know: Nazaré has become one of the most famous big-wave surf spots in the world, and the best one for spectators. Even if you’ll never surf it, watching the show from the headland affords a rare view of big-wave surfing, and it’s worth the trip for that alone.

Check out these things you should know before you head to Portugal

6. The Peak, Ireland

Ireland’s entire coastline is rich with rideable waves. Alf Alderson heads to Bundoran, where an unlikely but iconic surf town has sprung up beside some of the best swells in Europe.

“Every time I surf in Ireland, and Bundoran in particular, it’s about far more than simply riding waves. The area’s wild, romantic landscape and rich culture are almost the polar opposite of the backdrop we’re used to on surf trips. My own visits to Bundoran also tend to include a trudge up the lower slopes of the 1500ft Benbulbin, which rises like a fantastical monolith above the town. Looking around, it’s easy to see how the strange, melancholy atmosphere here has fuelled the country’s artists and poets over centuries.

“From atop the hill, I stared out at the coastline of Sligo and Donegal, once again daydreaming about all the surf here. Ireland’s outline twists and turns like a scalded snake, and any surfer can immediately see how the country has some of the best and most varied waves in Europe. Flat days are rare here. I’ve always managed to find a wave, every visit, whether mellow rollers beyond the golden sands of Tullan Strand or challenging, head-high A-frames at my favorite spot, The Peak.”

Type of wave: Left-hand reef break.

Things to know: A car is essential to make the most of the range of breaks here. Bring equipment for cold-water waves that range in size from knee-high to triple overhead.

See the best of Ireland’s coastline by car with these top road trips

7. Mundaka, Spain

Some say Mundaka is Basque for “fickle”. After years of visiting Northern Spain, hoping for conditions to cooperate, Jake Howard finally scored.

“For three years I’d been chasing Mundaka, and I still hadn’t had a proper surf here. Coming to town to cover the Billabong Pro, several times, I had yet to see the wave do its thing. Sure, a lot of world-class breaks are fickle – and that’s what makes many of them so magical – but Mundaka is beyond unpredictable. Because of the way it’s protected from the raw energy of the Atlantic, it requires a very specific swell angle. And that is precisely why so many surfers chase it. When it turns on, it’s a freight train, top-to-bottom left-hand barrel that requires commitment. However, before any of that, the wave simply requires patience.

“I was only in the water a few minutes before a large, rolling set came steaming through in the early dawn light. A few silhouetted figures splashed around me like jumping fish. I dodged the first two waves, perhaps not quite ready. But the third wave that came my way was the one.

“I was up. Anxiety washed away, replaced by the thrill of flying down the line. The waves were indeed serious, and the session required my full attention. But Mundaka had finally let me in.”

Type of wave: Left-hand, sand-bottom point break.

Things to know: Staying in position in the lineup is challenging. Enter through the harbor to insert yourself directly into the lineup. Once in unprotected waters, it’s like stepping onto an aquatic treadmill.

Want to explore Northern Spain on foot? Here are the region’s best hiking routes

8. Sennen Cove, England

In Cornwall in England’s far west, Alex Wade found a home in a place where the landscape is raw and you never know who – or what – you might encounter in the lineup.

“A 3ft green-blue wall heads straight for me. I take off, and just as I look along the face, there’s an explosive burst of grey, blue and silver, angling down the wave. It’s a dolphin, surfing the same wave. I trim to the left, standing, watching the dolphin ahead of me, letting the wave carry us both and wishing that this moment would last forever.

“In 35 years of surfing, the best oceanic experiences of my life have happened in easy reach of my home in Cornwall. Sennen Cove is the mainland UK’s most westerly beach, a wild and magical place, pummelled by swell all year and with a setup that’s perfect for all types of surfers.”

Type of wave: Beach break.

Things to know: As with all beach breaks, the rips will be strong on big days. Don’t try and park in the cove in the summer – it’ll be rammed. Instead, park in the field above the cove and walk down to the beach.

Here are some more of England’s best beaches

9. Supertubos, Portugal

Portugal’s heavy and unforgiving beach break is not the place to make mistakes. Stuart Butler found out the hard way.

“The next wave was a little larger and angled slightly more to the north – it was heading straight for me. I turned, made two or three easy paddle strokes until I felt the wave pick me up. I dropped in and made one easy bottom turn as the wave stood tall. In front of me, the lip pitched – a rare invitation into the tube. Once on it, it was a surprisingly simple wave to ride. I don’t remember having to do anything but lean into it and enjoy the moment. Eventually, I was blasted cleanly out onto the shoulder. A smile wrapped around my face.

“But as I turned to paddle back out, Supertubos was there to collect on what it had just given me. A new set came crashing down on top of me, ripping the board out of my hands. Then, I felt the familiar tug on my ankle. I had, once again, snapped my leash. No wonder the surf shops in Peniche are thriving.”

Type of wave: Beach break, where the lefts tend to be better than the rights.

Things to know: Supertubos might be a beach break, but don’t underestimate how heavy it can get. Perfect conditions are not that common; closeouts are. Bring spare leashes. When it’s good, expect heavy crowds – and a talented local crew, who ensure they get the pick of the waves.

See more of Portugal’s coastline. Here are the country’s most beautiful beaches

Arizona’s desert landscapes, majestic sunsets and outdoor adventures draw visitors from all over the world. Yet the Grand Canyon State offers far more than just stunning nature. 

Outdoor thrills are matched by indoor indulgences, encounters with history and hip modern neighborhoods. You can opt for a wilderness escape, or bustling ski resorts; big-city living, or empty spaces perfect for quiet contemplation.

Along with desert cities that exude a hint of the Old West, Arizona has atmospheric ghost towns and natural wonders aplenty, including (of course) the Grand Canyon – but also the world’s largest pine forest, which is also a ski area.

Read on for a roundup of the 10 places that best capture all Arizona has to offer.

1. The Grand Canyon

Best for taking in nature’s majesty

The Grand Canyon is rightly Arizona’s most famous sight. Colossal and spectacular, it draws huge crowds in summer – numbers that might dissuade first-timers or those seeking a quiet escape. Yet, no matter how many fellow visitors you encounter, this is a place that truly lives up to the hype.

While most know this massive canyon system carved by the Colorado River as a single entity, there are actually four separate areas you can visit. Grand Canyon National Park is divided into the South Rim (open year-round) and the North Rim (closed from mid-October to mid-May) – and these two zones are a full 210 miles apart. Along with mesmerizing views and hiking trails, the busier South Rim has a free shuttle service, a geology museum and some good on-site accommodations. Reaching 8000ft in elevation, the North Rim delivers more outsized panoramas and has milder weather and fewer people on the trails, contributing to a less touristy atmosphere.

The Grand Canyon’s West and East Rims are also worth exploring, though these areas fall outside the national park. The Grand Canyon West tourism area on the Hualapai Indian Reservation is famed for its glass-bottomed Skywalk, which stretches 70ft out over the canyon rim. The East Rim is quieter and ideal for peaceful hiking.

Planning tip: To see the best of the East Rim, check out the Little Colorado River Gorge in Navajo Tribal Park, about 11 miles from Cameron. While there’s a $5 fee to access two stunning overlooks, and you’ll need a $12 backcountry permit to hike the trails, solitude is all but guaranteed.

2. Monument Valley

Best for learning about Indigenous culture

To explore Arizona’s Indigenous culture amid 1000ft sandstone towers, make a beeline for Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park. You’ll immediately recognize the landscape’s monoliths, which have been pictured in movies and TV Westerns since the 1930s.

The outcrops are called se’Bii’Ndzisgaii in the Navajo language, and the best way to fully appreciate this sacred land is to travel with a local guide who will add context to the experience as you walk in the shadow of buttes such as East Mitten and West Mitten.

Planning tip: Sunrise and sunset are the best times to photograph Monument Valley’s towering buttes. For sublime sunset photos, stake out a spot by the Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park visitor center or the View Hotel.

3. Phoenix

Best for art and architecture

Arizona’s capital of Phoenix is the best place to fuel your appetite for art and architecture in Arizona. The great architect Frank Lloyd Wright left his fingerprints all over the city – most notably at Taliesin West in suburban Scottsdale. Wright’s desert laboratory, the complex’s horizontal planes seem to merge with the rocky landscape – an architectural feat that has earned the site National Historic Landmark and UNESCO World Heritage designations. Continue to take in Wright’s legacy at Arizona Biltmore Resort & Spa: the building was designed by Albert Chase McArthur, with Wright acting as a consultant for four months in 1928.

The Phoenix Art Museum is another top venue, with exhibitions of work by both big-name and emerging artists. A particularly popular work is the Yayoi Kusama’s infinity mirror room entitled, You Who Are Getting Obliterated in the Dancing Swarm of Fireflies. From the art museum, it’s just three blocks to Roosevelt Row, where you can admire the murals that made Phoenix’s street art scene rightly famous.

4. Tucson

Best for historic sites and hipster vibes

Home to half a million people, Tucson is Arizona’s second-largest city, and it beautifully combines urban comforts with outdoor endeavors – plus an up-and-coming food scene. While it’s in the heart of the Sonoran Desert – adjacent Saguaro National Park boasts countless ancient, eight-ton cactuses – Tucson defies the desert-city stereotypes. A short drive from downtown along the Sky Island Scenic Byway, 9000ft Mt Lemmon is the highest point in the Santa Catalina Mountains, and the southernmost spot in the continental US where you can go skiing.

Downtown Tucson is a mix of historic sights and hipster vibes. The Turquoise Trail is a self-guided walking route linking 22 historic landmarks. Nearby, historic Fourth Ave bursts with youthful energy; its murals, tattoo shops and vintage boutiques attract students from the University of Arizona.

Planning tip: Tucson scores bonus points for sustainability thanks to the Sun Link Streetcar and The Loop, a 131-mile car-free pathway for cyclists, runners and walkers. Rent a bike from Tucson Bike Rentals on The Loop.

5. Verde Valley

Best for wine trails and historic towns

With its prehistoric ruins, outpost towns, abundant wildlife and wine trail that snakes around rivers and mountains, Central Arizona’s Verde Valley is an underrated spot. To get a sense of its rugged beauty, follow the 30-mile road that winds through the valley, starting in atmospheric Jerome, once hailed as the “wickedest town in the West.” Built by a mining magnate in the 19th century, this once-notorious outpost is today considered a ghost town (although it still has around 500 residents).

Jerome’s Cleopatra Hill once delivered payloads of gold, silver and copper for eager miners. The town today is a mix of eclectic restaurants, artists’ studios and offbeat boutiques, all set inside Victorian buildings that look poised to tumble into the valley below. In the fertile land below Jerome are the similarly historic towns of Clarkdale, Cornville and Cottonwood – home to Dead Horse Ranch State Park, a peaceful spot for outdoor recreation.

Planning tip: On a trip to the Verde Valley, you can also swing by Tuzigoot National Monument and Montezuma Castle National Monument, where you can see the remains of pueblos (villages) built by the Sinagua people in around 1050 CE.

6. Horseshoe Bend

Best for photo opportunities

What makes this 270° bend in the Colorado River stand out from all the other twists and turns along this mighty watercourse? Maybe it’s the way the dark blue waters of Horseshoe Bend reflect the towering sandstone walls that surround it. Its effect leaves you humbled at the thought of the massive forces of nature that shaped this region near Page, Arizona.

The overlook in Glen Canyon Recreation Area is the best place to snap a classic Horseshoe Bend photo. And a more enriching way to experience the canyon’s immensity is on a raft. Guided rafting tours head downriver to Horseshoe Bend and stop at a swimming beach with ancient Puebloan petroglyphs.

7. Grand Canyon Caverns

Best for a quirky Route 66 stop

Route 66 stretches across much of Arizona – and we recommend making a stop at the wild and sometimes weird Grand Canyon Caverns. Located in Peach Springs, this idiosyncratic site is composed of an inn, a four-table restaurant and the largest dry cavern in the US, situated 210ft down in the underbelly of the Grand Canyon.

Befitting this outpost’s oddball history, local woodcutter Walter Peck accidentally discovered the caves in 1927 after falling off his horse while heading to a poker game. Today, you can explore them yourself on a series of tours, including a ghost walk.

Planning tip: Arizona lays claim to 401 miles of Route 66, making this a great base for short road trips on this historic route. Essential stops include Holbrook (home to the Wigwam Motel), Winslow (immortalized by The Eagles in the song “Take it Easy”) and Williams, starting point for the Grand Canyon Railway.

8. Sedona

Best for spirituality and wellness

Although technically a city, Sedona feels more like a glamorous village surrounded by natural splendor. Wherever you wander, you’ll be greeted by imposing red-rock formations and 5000ft monoliths such as Bell Rock and Cathedral Rock – said to be focal points for natural energy fields known as vortexes.

Modern-day Sedona has evolved from an outpost of ranches and apple orchards to a popular hub for spirituality, wellness and – reputedly – UFO sightings; this land is also sacred to a number of Indigenous groups. It’s also a great stop for art buffs and outdoor enthusiasts, with more than 80 galleries and 400 miles of trails zigzagging along Oak Creek through stands of prickly pear cactuses and ponderosa pines.

9. Meteor Crater

Best for ancient history

Among Arizona’s many superlative sites, Meteor Crater near Winslow is one for the ages. Almost a mile wide and 550ft deep, this massive depression is considered the best-preserved meteorite impact site in the world. The site has a fascinating backstory: it took shape some 50,000 years ago when a monstrous iron-nickel meteorite smashed into the ground at 26,000 mph, leaving a perfect impact crater. You can learn more about the site at the visitor center and 4D theater.

10. Flagstaff

Best for stargazing

Perched at an elevation of 7000ft, Flagstaff offers the best of the mountains, as well as urban pleasures. Situated in the world’s largest ponderosa pine forest, “Flag” is home to Northern Arizona University, which contributes to the city’s youthful vibe. The streets are awash with coffee houses and craft-beer establishments, which you can explore on the Flagstaff Brewery Trail.

To connect with the great outdoors, head to the Arizona Snowbowl, a four-season playground in Flagstaff’s backyard that has 40 ski runs and three terrain parks. Chairlifts go up to 11,500ft, offering dizzying views of Sedona’s red rocks, the rim of the Grand Canyon and fields of cinder cones as you ride up the western slope of 12,637ft Mount Humphreys.

Flagstaff is also a leading destination for astrotourism. In 1930, astronomers at Lowell Observatory here discovered Pluto, and all the American astronauts who walked on the moon received training in Flagstaff. Decades later, Flagstaff became the word’s first International Dark Sky city, and many visitors are drawn here specifically by the stargazing opportunities.

Planning tip: Flagstaff is a great base for exploring the wider state. Meteor Crater is just 42 miles away, and you can also easily access Grand Canyon National Park, Walnut Canyon National Monument, Sunset Volcano National Monument and Wupatki National Monument by car.

Anyone planning an island escape in Southeast Asia faces a tricky decision – in a region studded with sand-circled tropical islands that sizzle with fabulous food and overflow with culture, how do you pick just one?

This magical part of the world has enough island escapes to fill several lifetimes of travel, but regrettably, we only have one, so the shortlist has to be narrowed down. For a first taste of Southeast Asia’s islands, we’d make a strong pitch for Phuket in Thailand and Bali in Indonesia – both are rich in culture, wrapped in sparkling sands and accessible to everyone from students in flipflops to empty-nesters catching up on far-flung travel.

But which to choose… Luckily, we have a pair of seasoned travel writers on hand to make the case for each of these beloved island hubs. Read on to see if Phuket or Bali is the right escape for you.

Favor fabulous Phuket

Isabella Noble is a Barcelona-based travel journalist and the author of Lonely Planet’s Pocket Phuket guide. She has been spending time on this beautiful, sometimes underappreciated Thai island for almost a decade.

For anyone who loves Phuket – as I do – it’s a magical island that instantly defies the stereotypes without making any fuss. Thailand bursts with dreamy, laid-back, palm-filled islands washed by gentle turquoise waves, but Phuket (pronounced poo-ket) combines this tropical-paradise allure with the lively buzz, creative vibe and thrilling food scene of a dynamic urban hub.

Let’s start with those fabulous, flour-soft, salt-white beaches. My favorites are in the north of the island, including sparkling Hat Surin, endless Hat Bang Thao and wilder Hat Layan. Phuket’s three northwesternmost strands are a treat too: Hat Nai Yang, Hat Mai Khao and Hat Nai Thon all sit within the protected Sirinat National Park and have a blissfully relaxed, nature-first feel.

On the island’s southern tip, mellow Hat Rawai is another beachy beauty that I seek out on every visit. It’s known for its rustic seafood restaurants, buzzing kitesurfing scene and the powdery strands close by at Hat Nai Han. Blazing sunsets draw crowds to dramatic Laem Phromthep (Promthep Cape) and there’s an almost mystical feel as everyone simultaneously gazes out as the sun drops into the jade-colored Andaman Sea.

Phuket’s vibrant food scene

Phuket also has one of Thailand’s most irresistible food scenes, born from the mingling of Southeast Asian and Chinese cultures over the centuries (known here as Baba culture). The arty island capital, Phuket Town, is the culinary epicenter. A tin-mining hub in the 19th and 20th centuries, it’s filled with candy-colored Sino-Portuguese buildings, restored vintage shophouses and hidden shrines that burst into life during the September/October Vegetarian Festival.

I like popping into the Lock Tien food court, where Phuketian classics like mee hokkien (Hokkien noodles) and just-made spring rolls are served at plastic tables, or grabbing flaky roti bread topped with a fried egg at the always-popular Thai-Muslim breakfast spots on Thalang Rd. Long-running Mee Ton Poe is locally loved for its noodle dishes; Kopitiam does Phuket-style Thai classics; and Raya prepares its popular coconutty crab curry in a tile-covered Sino-Portuguese house.

On the fine-dining side, try the contemporary Sardinian delights dreamt up by superstar chef Alessandro Frau at Acqua; the elevated Phuketian flavors of Patong’s gorgeous, garden-facing Ta Khai; Cherngtalay’s elegant Suay for chef Noi Tammasak’s arty twist on Thai cuisine; or Michelin-starred PRU in northern Phuket. There’s plenty to enjoy on the local coffee scene, too, with hipster-style hangouts such as Phuket Town’s The Shelter Coffee and Bookhemian easily rivaling Chiang Mai’s famously cool cafe culture.

I’ve happily spent time in Phuket with my brother, my partner and many friends over the years, but also as a solo female traveler. Whether you fancy a beachfront yoga class, heading out on a diving trip, visiting Buddhist temples (such as 150-year-old Wat Chalong) or perhaps tackling the sport of muay Thai (Thai boxing), Phuket’s activity calendar has it, and all kinds of travelers can expect a warm welcome here.

A signature Phuket highlight is escaping into gorgeous Ao Pha-Nga Marine National Park. Kayaking or paddle-boarding is the most rewarding, low-impact way to explore this bewitching bay dotted with limestone karst formations. Day trips to Ko Phi-Phi – where travelers are permitted to visit gorgeous Maya Bay under strict conservation rules – are perfectly doable, too.

And did you know there’s also great hiking in Phuket? Rewarding routes include the sweaty, jungle-traversing climb up to the 45m (150ft) Big Buddha in the Nakkerd Hills near Kata, as well as paths through the wild rainforests of northern Phuket’s Khao Phra Thaew Royal Wildlife & Forest Reserve – home to the pioneering Gibbon Rehabilitation Project.

Beachfront bliss

Nowhere does seductive beach hotels (or heavenly spas) like Phuket. You could go all out with a deluxe stay at one of Thailand’s top hideaways, such as Amanpuri, Trisara, The Surin Phuket or Rosewood Phuket. There are also fun, sociable hostels and design-forward boutique hotels, particularly in Phuket Town (Casa Blanca is a joy), alongside mellow beachside guesthouses in places such as west-coast Kamala.

Yet when I’m longing for this delicious island, I think of an early-morning stroll through Phuket Town, a plastic plate of steaming noodles at a toes-in-the-sand beach shack, or a soul-stirring swim in turquoise waves backed by rippling casuarinas. This is what Phuket is all about. No wonder the island has drawn people from all over the world for centuries.

It’d better be Bali

If Mark Eveleigh were told he could only travel in one country for the rest of his life, he’d choose Indonesia. This widely traveled journalist and author has written for numerous publications; check out his travel book, Kopi Dulu: 15,000km through Indonesia.

Overcrowded and overdeveloped? Or the world’s most beautiful island? I lean toward the latter.

The fabled “Island of the Gods,” Bali certainly sees its fair share of tourists. The town of Ubud, a famous yoga haven and art capital, has its dedicated devotees – as does Uluwatu, with its sublime temple and adrenaline-pumping surf. Kuta was once party central, even if the night owls are now heading to the beach clubs and cool cafes of Seminyak and booming Canggu.

Alongside five-star resorts such as Raffles and the Four Seasons that sprawl through tropical gardens and spill onto talcum-powder beaches, visitors can stay in a host of exciting new designer places, such as Lost Lindenberg and Nirjhara. And even as demand soars, you can still rent a simple, comfortable room with a private balcony overlooking a tropical garden for under $10 per night, breakfast included.

So, yes, tourism might be booming here. But on an island that’s over 10 times the size of Phuket, it’s still astoundingly easy to find an unspoiled corner.

Captivating culture and beguiling beaches

I’m a big fan of Thailand and have worked on many assignments in that wonderful country. But the colorful cast of gods and demons, ghosts and witches that play such a large part in traditional Balinese life fascinate me – so much, in fact, that they became central characters in my latest novel. Indeed, it’s the Balinese people that make the island uniquely appealing – not to mention one of the most culturally intriguing spots in the world.

When it comes to beaches, Bali and Phuket both boast palm-shaded white-sand beaches that make visitors drool. But only Bali has a law stipulating that no buildings can be tall enough to rise over those palm trees. Even the most congested tourist centers here have been spared from high-rise, Thai-style cityscapes.

In addition to the dreamy white beaches around Nusa Dua and the Bukit Peninsula, there are also romantic volcanic beaches where you can stroll for miles across a surface that shimmers like a black mirror, without seeing another holidaymaker. If you enjoy dramatic wave-smashed coastlines (and some of the world’s best surfing) then you should stick to the south coast; if you prefer tranquil reefs that lure dolphins, turtles and other marine life, head to the sheltered north coast.

An island of natural delights

When you’ve had enough of beaches, Bali’s volcanic highlands offer a smorgasbord of activities that little Phuket could barely dream of. The sunrise climb up 1717m (5633ft) Gunung Batur might be – justifiably – the most popular tour on the island, along with the trip to Ubud’s Monkey Forest.

Inland, you can also cycle downhill for 40km (25 miles), go whitewater rafting or explore jungles and peaks on foot, by horse or even by helicopter. In the island’s unspoiled “wild west,” you can walk with pink buffalo or visit what might be the planet’s most photogenic traditional fishing fleet.

The arid hillsides of Northern Bali are planted with cashew, dragon fruit and (surprisingly) even vineyards. To the south, the slopes are dominated by the giant stairways of terraced paddies, in places running right down the ocean.

I fell in love with Bali some two decades ago, and my ideal writing retreat is tucked away on the remote western side of the island. Every time I go back, I realize anew that West Bali might be the most achingly beautiful place on the planet.

This third of the island remains almost entirely overlooked by visitors; even the islanders themselves are often astounded to hear that West Bali National Park has deserted beaches where wild deer trot through the shallows, and jungle-clad hills that shelter hornbills, flying foxes and slender langur monkeys.

There are lots of places in the world with plenty to occupy you for a two-week vacation. Twenty years after my first visit to Bali, I’m still convinced that there’s enough here to keep me busy for a lifetime.

There’s endless skiing in the cold season in Vail – and plenty to do in this beautiful mountain town once ski season ends.

Situated in the Gore Range of Colorado’s Rocky Mountains, about 100 miles west of Denver, Vail is a popular winter destination for skiing and snowboarding. And though Vail Ski Resort and nearby Beaver Creek Resort attract visitors from all over the world during the Centennial State’s cold and snowy months, Vail’s deluxe hotels, luxurious spas, fine-dining restaurants, manicured golf courses and rugged hiking trails mean you’ll find something exciting here in every season.

Winter in the Vail Valley means steep hotel rates, bustling restaurants and busy ski slopes. Though these days, summer prices approach those of ski season, you can still find deals, while you’ll have more of the mountains to yourself during Vail’s shoulder seasons, in spring and fall. If you’re planning your next trip to the Rockies, consult this season-by-season guide to Vail first.

December to April is for world-class skiing and snowboarding

Winter has historically been the busiest season in Vail by a wide margin. These peak months are the most expensive time to visit Vail, with skiers and snowboarders driving up demand at ski-in/ski-out hotels like Grand Hyatt Vail and The Arrabelle at Vail Square. If hotel rates are sky-high, so are the stoke levels, especially on powder days. The weather is snowy, cold and perfect for hitting the slopes, cozying up by a fireplace or getting a massage at one of Vail’s many spas. Even as the temperatures tick up slightly as spring approaches, snow continues to fall. Spring break brings another influx of visitors, while April ushers in spring skiing in Vail – bluebird skies, soft snow conditions and a fun, upbeat après-ski scene. Beaver Creek and Vail resorts typically close in the middle of the month.

Score deals on lodging and activities from April to June

Spring weather in the Rockies can be wildly variable – a whiteout snowstorm one day, sunny blue skies the next – but this slower-paced season also offers the best value and the smallest crowds in Vail. When ski season ends, typically in late April, Vail settles into its low season, when hotels are at their most affordable. Hiking trails are muddy as the snow begins to melt, and some local businesses close for a few weeks. Yet with a little advanced planning (and realistic expectations!), you can still have a great trip and even enjoy a reduced-rate stay at some of Vail’s poshest hotels. In mid to late June, Vail Ski Resort and Beaver Creek Resort typically reopen for summer operations, which include scenic gondola rides, hiking, mountain biking, golf and adventure activities like bungee trampolines and mountain coasters. June marks the start of Vail’s beloved recurring summer offerings like the farmers market.

Summer activities in the mountains abound between June and September

In the summer, Vail’s low humidity and mild weather draw an increasing number of hikers, mountain bikers, whitewater rafters, fly fishers and other outdoor adventurers. Come July, wildflowers begin to bloom, and Gore Creek rushes with runoff. It’s a prime time to plan a trip focused on outdoor activities, particularly a stroll through the colorful flower beds of the Betty Ford Alpine Gardens. Nightly rates are high, especially on weekends, and hotels book up fast. (While its growing popularity is inching prices higher, summer is still more affordable than winter.)

For adventurous hikers, early August is a great time to summit one of the region’s “13ers” – mountains above 13,000ft in elevation – since the high-alpine snow and ice have finally melted. Temperatures are in the mid-70s, perfect for cycling over Vail Pass on the bike path or going backpacking with llamas. The aspen leaves typically start to turn yellow around mid-September (though exact timing varies from year to year).

Enjoy relaxed hikes and fall colors from September to November

Fall in Vail is laid-back and relaxed, with near-perfect weather for outdoor pursuits and seasonal events like Oktoberfest. On weekends in late September and October, leaf peepers flock to Vail to catch the changing Colorado’s famous golden-yellow aspen leaves (driving hotel rates up, especially on weekends; weekdays are mostly quiet). Since it’s shoulder season, some attractions and restaurants close to give their employees a break and tackle maintenance projects before ski season.

Vail Ski Resort typically opens in mid-November, with Beaver Creek not far behind. While the still-early season for skiing and snowboarding means limited terrain, plenty of eager travelers spend Thanksgiving on the slopes regardless. Plus, since Vail recently expanded its snowmaking system (adding an extra 200 acres of new snowmaking terrain to its existing 430 acres), the resort is less reliant on Mother Nature for snow and can open more runs in November. Lots of people plan ski trips to Vail and Beaver Creek during their kids’ winter breaks from school, when the town is aglow with holiday lights, and there are lots of festive gatherings and celebrations to attend.

Dominica is one of the few Caribbean islands where the beach is the least captivating attraction. 

The real reason to visit this tropical paradise? Natural outdoor experiences, which abound here.  Blanketed in emerald vegetation and liberally sprinkled with hot springs, waterfalls, gorges, volcanoes and black sand, Dominica lets you get up close to nature at its most unspoiled and idyllic.

After all, in what other place would you find 365 rivers?

When should I go to Dominica?

The so-called Nature Island consists of 290 sq miles (751 sq km) of dense rainforests, deep gorges, towering mountains and natural hot springs – which add up to an optimal playground for ecotourists and adventurers. 

Such rugged terrain unlocks year-round opportunities for exploration. When you go depends on your preferences and the kind of experience you’re looking for. As on most Caribbean islands, there’s really never a bad time to visit.

Dominica has two primary seasons: the dry season, which runs from December to May; and the wet (rainy) season, from June to November. The wet season is also hurricane season, so expect intermittent showers and potentially stormy weather.

(Category 5 Hurricane Maria hit the island in 2017). Barring a steady downpour, the rainy season typically allows for outdoor activities, too.

Dominica is blessed with warm waters all year round, perfect for exploring the island’s abundant marine life by scuba diving or snorkeling. If hiking is your vibe, the dry season is your time to shine; just be sure to head out early before the blazing midday temperatures set in.

If cultural exploration is more your speed, consider a getaway during Carnival, known locally as “Mas Dominik.” This colorful celebration takes place in the lead-up to Ash Wednesday, usually in February or early March. Another staple on the calendar is the World Creole Music Festival in October, which pays homage to marvelous, indigenous Dominican music, and features other popular genres.

How much time should I spend in Dominica?

Dominica is the perfect getaway if you’re searching for relaxation and renewal. Visitors should stay for a week or longer to make the most of their time on the island and let their stress truly go. 

Is it easy to get in and around Dominica?

American Airlines provides daily direct service from its Miami hub, from which flights reach cities throughout the USA and the world.

Douglas-Charles (formerly Melville Hall Airport) is the larger of Dominica’s two airports, and lies a little over an hour’s drive from the capital of Roseau. Canefield Airport, which has propeller-plane service to other Caribbean islands, is 15 minutes from the capital. Visitors can also get to the island via the Express des Îles ferry service from Guadeloupe, Martinique and St Lucia. 

Upon your arrival, you’ll have multiple options for navigating the island. Taxis are stationed outside both airports and at various spots around the capital. Privately owned minibuses – denoted by the letter “H” – ply several routes across the island.

You can flag one down by the roadside, depending on the area (fares start as low as EC$1.50 / US$.50). There is also the option of renting a vehicle, which you’ll need to purchase a permit for EC$30 (US$11) to do.

Top things to do in Dominica 

Take a (very) long walk across the island 

It’s possible to hike across the entire island along the Waitukubuli National Trail. This path is unique among Caribbean long-distance hiking routes – it’s the longest in the region – and extends an incredible 115 miles (185km) from tip to tip, starting in the southern village of Scotts Head and terminating at Cabrits National Park in the north.

Waitukubuli (the Indigenous Kalinago word for Dominica) weaves through thick rainforests and thunderous waterfalls like Trafalgar, with plenty of stops in thriving local communities along the way.

It’s an admittedly arduous trek, and hiking the entire trail will require a two-week commitment. Yet since it’s strategically chopped into 14 segments, you can pick your adventure based on time and level of difficulty.

Some sections are perfect for a family stroll, while others are more demanding and suitable for only seasoned explorers. If you’re up for the full challenge, it’s a truly immersive experience, one that gets you to the core of Dominican culture.

Decompress at one of the island’s natural spas

A tiny village tucked away in the Roseau Valley, Wotten Waven boasts a concentration of natural spas. While they are on the rustic side, these open-air havens might be just what you need to decompress. 

Tikwen Glocho (literally “little corner of hot water”) is a garden sanctuary with adjacent cool springs and a collection of enormous stone pools brimming with therapeutic thermal waters in which you can take a soak to ease your tension. At Tia’s Hot Spa, you’ll find three large outdoor pools and two private pools encased in bamboo huts.

Screw’s Spa, perched on the outskirts of Wotten Waven, is a scenic retreat overlooking a river. The spa features several pools of varying depths and temperatures connected by cascading man-made waterfalls.

Float along the most famous of Dominica’s 365 rivers 

Gliding down Dominica’s Indian River, the island’s most famous, is a peaceful way to absorb and appreciate the island’s seemingly untouched beauty.

The wildlife-laden route is fringed by thick greenery and shaded by a loose canopy of towering mangroves, while the twisted roots of bwa mang trees wrap around the swampy riverbank. 

Moviegoers may recognize Tia Dalma’s Shack, a popular stop on the trip, from the Pirates of the Caribbean franchise. Don’t miss the signature Dynamite, a potent concoction of local cask rum, gooseberry, passionfruit, lime and guineps. 

Uncover Dominica’s wild side at Morne Trois Pitons

In Morne Trois Pitons National Park, marvel at the striking Boiling Lake, which began as a volcanic crater and today is one of the world’s largest extra-hot bodies of water. 

In the nearby, vividly named Valley of Desolation, bubbling fumaroles, steaming vents and hot springs make for an almost post-apocalyptic scene. Hikers exploring the area will also come across Ti Tou Gorge, a sliver of a canyon filled with gin-clear water. 

And towering over it all is the park’s centerpiece, the imposing 4403ft (1342m) Morne Trois Pitons, whose summit unveils unfettered views of neighboring Morne Micotrin, Morne Watt and Morne Anglais.

My favorite thing to do in Dominica 

Dominica has an untamed, raw quality that suggests how the place will stay itself even as visitors start catching on. This aura is reflected in my favorite Dominican event, the World Creole Music Festival, a three-day party that celebrates the island’s sensational music. 

I grew up obsessed with the WCK Band, a legend of Bouyon music and Dominican culture. My body still moves involuntarily when ”Band Wagon Train,” “Balance Batty“ or ”Met Veye” catches my ear. And to witness a performance in Dominica at WCMF? Electric. 

How much money do I need for Dominica?

Tourists from the US, Canada, the UK, and Europe can take advantage of a favorable currency-exchange rate when they convert their money to Eastern Caribbean dollars.

• Accommodations: EC$270–540 (US$100–200) per night

• Restaurants: EC$30–200 (US$11–74)

• Public transportation: EC$1.50–12.50 (US$.50–4.50)

• Private taxi service: EC$80–250 (US$30–92)

• Glass of rum punch: EC$12–20 (US$4.50–7.50)

• Cup of coffee or cocoa tea: EC$5.40–13.50 (US$2–5)

More tips for enjoying Dominica

Wear dark swimsuits in hot waters

If you’re visiting a sulfur spring, remember that light swimming suits and trunks will easily stain. It’s also wise to remove your jewelry before entering the pool to avoid damaging the metal. 

Carry cash 

Some businesses don’t accept credit or debit cards, and it is unlikely that any will accept Apple Pay. So it’s always advisable to carry some cash – either local EC or US dollars – to ensure smooth transactions, especially at smaller establishments. 

Hire a guide to get the most out of your nature excursions

Some segments of the Waitukubuli National Trail are more difficult and dangerous than others. Hire a knowledgeable guide – you can contact the Forestry, Wildlife and Parks Division for recommendations – and don’t attempt the hike alone.

Depending on your selected segment, you might also need a hiking pass, which can also be purchased through the forestry agency. As an extra safety precaution, inform representatives at your accommodation of your hiking plans before you set out. 

Lonely Planet destination editor Melissa Yeager recently traveled to Playa del Carmen to take in the relaxing natural beauty of one of its ecoresorts. Here, she shares some tips and insights for anyone planning a similar trip.

Inevitably there are destinations and hotels you come across that you immediately think, in the words of Liz Lemon: “I want to go to there.”

That feeling washed over me when I first saw the images of the Hotel Xcaret swirling on social media several years ago. I combed through dozens of prospective dates, but it was booked solid and I had to let the dream of swimming through the turquoise waters of Xcaret’s stalactite-gilded underground rivers drift from my mind.

The first Xcaret (pronounced Ish-cah-ret) opened as a natural eco-park in 1990 in Playa del Carmen, a little more than an hour’s drive from Cancun International Airport. Architect Miguel Quintana Pali originally intended to build his dream home on the property, but as he started clearing the land for construction, he discovered cenotes, underground rivers and Mayan ruins on the site. Instead of keeping it for himself, he developed it into Mexico’s first eco-park and a tribute to his country and culture.

In recent years, the popular Grupo Xcaret’s portfolio has grown to include five theme parks and three luxury all-inclusive resorts that provide not only all your food, drink and activities on the property but also theme park entrance as well.

So when Xcaret invited me to check out the property, it was an immediate yes. But I wondered: would it live up to the hype? Would the theme parks be natural wonders or “Disney-fied” versions of the real thing? Here’s what I experienced.

Where did you stay? What was the vibe?

I stayed in the original Hotel Xcaret México resort – the largest of the properties with 900 rooms sprawled over five buildings, all recessed delicately among the lush river and beachfront landscape.

With that many rooms, you would think the resort would feel crowded. And it does in the lobby, where you get a sense of just how many people are staying at this resort. However, the frenetic movement of people checking in and baggage delivery is confined to that area. Once you enter the stunning greenery and waterways of the resort, you often forget that this is a large place. It has a chic atmosphere and plenty of quiet places to relax.

The resort tries to match its guests to appropriate rooms by looking at the ages of people staying in the room. Often, they’ll group families with smaller children near each other and in places with activities suitable for those ages (there’s a wading pool with a nearby kid-friendly buffet and a bar with a view of the pool for parents). Meanwhile, they have an adults-only building (along with their adults-only property Hotel Xcaret Arte) with an exclusive rooftop pool boasting a bar and an Instagram-worthy clear tunnel to swim through.

Xcaret is a luxury, five-diamond resort with a price tag to match, ranging from US$650-1000 a night. But, before sticker shock sets in, I’d encourage you to do some math here to see if it is within your budget. Entrance fees for the parks and all activities on the resort (paddleboarding, kayaking, floating the river) are included along with your food, beverages (including alcohol), room service and transit to/from the airport.

Best thing you ate?

The food at the resort is all-inclusive, and there are 35 restaurants available ranging from carts in multiple locations replicating Mexico’s beloved street food scene to a Mercado with handmade, fresh tortillas.

But one restaurant in particular stood out – HA’ (Maya for water). A creation of chef Carlos Gaytán, its seven-course tasting menu is newly minted with a Michelin star and is open to the public. The upcharge required to dine here is one of the few you’ll encounter in the resort.

It costs US$150, but if you love fine dining and wine, it’s an incredible experience considering the price point. Every round – the Wagyu, the Beignet, the Filet Mignon – is a culinary delight. However, the standout on the menu for me was the escamoles (insect caviar). Well-seasoned and tasty, it’s unique to this destination and a great introduction to insects if you’ve never tried them before.

What was your favorite experience on the trip?

By far the rivers around the resort and in the Xplor park. It was the most tranquil experience. Suit up in a life jacket (and helmet at Xplor) and float. In Xplor, I loved the serenity of floating in the turquoise, transparent waters while admiring the stalactites decorating the ceiling overhead. The river was outdoors at the resort and floating was a great way to cool off on a hot afternoon and notice little details – a waterfall, a waterslide, hammocks in caves. It was a truly enchanting experience.

What was the most touristy thing you did?

Xoximilco. That’s not a typo. The “ch” has been replaced by the Xcaret “X” and yes, the evening, party-atmosphere boat float is inspired by the real floating gardens of Xochimilco, the UNESCO World Heritage site in Mexico City. The park does not try to be the same as the real Xochimilco (how could it be?) but aims to replicate the cultural and communal spirit of the original.

Having experienced both, I think the Xoximilco experience gives that same vibe of heading out on the trajineras (gondolas) for a day of celebration, but these are tailored to a luxury guest experience with much fancier vessels than the ones in CDMX – think coolers filled with beer, sodas and premixed cocktails and a three-course meal as well as the boat being cleaned between stops. Still, the experience replicates the warmth of community, music and dancing that makes the original such a memorable occasion.

The boats float to different stations hosting Mariachi and traditional Mexican music, while your guide encourages you to dance, eat and drink. If you’re traveling as a group, it would be a great way to kick off the trip.

What is the one thing that you did not expect?

So many joyful moments of sweet surprises dotted around the resort and parks. In the lobby, there’s a cart with popsicles. While floating in the river surrounding the resort, we discovered caves with hammocks and a hidden water slide. Relaxing at the pool, suddenly a band playing the xylophone appeared. In the Xenses theme park, we emerged from one of the attractions to discover a lemon tree where you could get a small cup of crisp, cool limonada to enjoy. These delights are spread around the resort like confetti, so make sure to keep your eyes open.

What was the handiest thing you packed?

Water shoes, an SPF shirt and a waterproof case for my phone. All came in useful multiple times. The SPF shirt freed me from having to endlessly reapply sunscreen while in the park.

My packing regret is not bringing some fast-drying shorts to wear at the theme parks. You’re moving from water slides and underground rivers to zip lines, and wearing shorts instead of swimsuit bottoms would have been much more comfortable.

Best tip for someone who wants to plan the same trip?

I have a few to share. First, book in advance. The property is proud of its high occupancy rates so plan ahead to get the dates you want.

Second, make your reservations for the spa and specialty restaurants early, as these fill up. Don’t worry, there are plenty of spots to eat, but if you want to get into one of the specialty places, think ahead.

Finally, take advantage of all the selfie cameras positioned around the resort. Scan your bracelet and the prepositioned camera will snap your photo. Then, when you go to your room at the end of the night, turn on the TV and the resort has a channel where you can view your photos. Grab a glass of wine and laugh with your travel companions at all your silly snapshots from the day.

Melissa stayed at Hotel Xcaret México and visited the related parks on an invitation from the resort. Lonely Planet does not accept freebies in exchange for positive reviews.

People who love Portland, Oregon will tell you to embrace the rain.

A reliable condition in the city from October to June, the rain is what makes the city so green, coating the trees and sidewalks in moss – and it’s why flowers bloom here nearly year-round. A good rain jacket and waterproof walking shoes are all you need to make the most of a rainy day. And when the sun finally comes out, the city sparkles. 

So should you visit for the rain or sun? At any time, you’ll find cozy coffee shops and cocktail bars, endless culinary delights, muddy or dry trails shaded by thick evergreen trees, and neighborhoods bursting with personality. Elements of every season in Portland contribute to the city’s moody vibe and vibrant personality. So whichever season you pick, you’ll likely want to make a return visit during another. 

Catch a rainbow of blooms from March to May 

While you’ll see blooming flowers at surprising times of the year in Portland, mid-March marks the most dramatic explosion of colors – namely, when the city’s beloved cherry trees come to life. The most famous and dramatic stretch of these blossoms is in downtown Portland, along the Willamette River, where the pedestrian path suddenly and briefly gets draped in heavy, pink branches. But these aren’t the only showstoppers in town. 

Visit Washington Park’s Japanese Garden for another popular yet serene cherry-tree tableau. Thanks to Portland’s close ties with its sister city, Sapporo, and a stunning 2017 expansion by world-renowned architect Kengo Kuma, this garden is a true homage to Japanese culture. Washington Park is also home to Portland’s famous International Rose Test Garden, which starts budding in April. (The bushes fully bloom come June.)

Crystal Springs Rhododendron Garden in Southeast Portland is a lesser-known but delightful place for bloom-spotting, with nine acres’ worth of rare species of rhododendrons and azaleas. These hearty shrubs can open as early as February, and peak in late April. Hoyt Arboretum also sees springtime blooms.

Portland’s beloved donut shops deliver equally colorful results. An iconic pink box of Voodoo Donuts will add another pop of color to your snaps of the cherry blossoms. Donut connoisseurs will point you to other shops that focus on freshly baked and perfectly flavored fried pastries, like Pip’s Original Doughnuts and Chai, Blue Star and Coco Donuts. 

The Portland Rose Festival serves as the unofficial kickoff to summer. The festivities comprise some 60 events starting in late May, including dragon-boat races, carnival rides, concerts, art shows and parades, including the iconic Grand Floral Parade through Portland’s Central Eastside.  

June to September is best for hiking and outdoor dining 

Summer in Portland is a smorgasbord of color and activity, which takes place on peaceful hiking trails, in verdant parks and all over lively city streets. After an inevitably long, wet spring, people are ready to be outside. 

Prepare for crowds in this peak tourist season. Patios fill up fast. Lines form for favorite summer spots like Salt & Straw ice cream. And parking lots overflow at entrances to Forest Park, the largest wooded urban park in the country, where you can hike on over 80 miles (129km) of trails. 

There are countless chances to enjoy nature on long walks in the city, including the short ascent up Mt Tabor, the city’s dormant cinder cone. Take the stairs to the top for a sweeping view of the city, then wander down Hawthorne Blvd, where you’ll find plentiful dive bars with patios, including the delightfully tacky Space Room Lounge. 

Farther to the southeast, head to Powell Butte Nature Park for gently rolling hiking trails and views of the many mountains that surround Portland, including Mt Hood, Mt St Helens and Mt Adams. Tryon Creek State Natural Area on the edge of southwest Portland is home to 665 acres of forest, 14 miles (22.5km) of hiking trails and 3 miles (5km) of paved bike trails. 

For post-hike refueling, the main Southeast thoroughfares of Belmont, Hawthorne and Division brim with food trucks, picnic tables, breweries and patios for enjoying Portland’s local fare alfresco. In the northeast, head to Alberta or Mississippi for more concentrations of food, drink and outdoor seating to enjoy. Or you can always get something to-go and head to Laurelhurst Park with a blanket for a meal among the massive Douglas fir trees.  

September to October is spooky season 

Portland loves Halloween, and appreciation for spooky season starts as soon as schools return from summer break. At Topaz Farm on Sauvie Island, just north of Portland, you’ll find copious pumpkins, a corn maze and a great selection of food and drinks that can be enjoyed while chickens run around your feet. 

Portland’s “weird” side is on full display at the annual West Coast Giant Pumpkin Regatta in Tualatin, just southwest of the city. Expect costumed paddlers navigating – yes – giant pumpkins in a series of races, while onlookers enjoy food and additional entertainment. 

These months are also a great time to check out Portland’s independent movie theaters, like the historic Hollywood and Bagdad – both stunningly ornate spaces where you can order local beer and food to enjoy during a flick. 

Embrace the dark with books and holiday lights in November and December 

Portlanders love their books – especially in the wintertime when the drizzly darkness sets the mood for curling up with a great read. If you’re looking to stock up, the world-famous Powell’s City of Books is a go-to any time of year. In November, the Portland Book Fest brings the stories off the page with author talks, lectures and classes. 

The darkness also sets the stage for lights. Visit the Oregon Zoo in December for ZooLights, a dazzling display of holiday sparkle. This event is especially popular with families; kids love to visit the animals as they marvel at the millions of lights on display all over the zoo grounds. 

February is craft beer time 

No matter when or where you’re exploring Portland, you can expect access to the country’s most famous beer scene, with some 80 craft breweries within the city limits. Come February, the beer enthusiasm gets turned up a notch with the arrival of Oregon Craft Beer Month. Breweries across the state host special events and release new batches – and for one February weekend, beer lovers can join in the nerdiest of events, at Zwickelmania, when breweries across Portland open their doors on this day for behind-the-scenes tours and brewer talks. Since Zwickel is German for the tap on the fermentation vessel that lets brewers taste their works in progress, you might even catch some free samples straight from the vat.