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A first-time guide to Antigua & Barbuda

Ever dreamed of finding yourself a new beach for every day of the year? Well that’s exactly what’s on offer in the beautiful twin-island nation of Antigua and Barbuda, which famously boasts 365 separate strands.

They’re the perfect setting for sipping Antiguan rum punch under thatch umbrellas, or feasting on some of the freshest seafood you’ll find.

Got your attention yet? Here’s a guide for first-time visitors to this stunning Caribbean destination. 

Aerial panoramic of man and woman floating in the turquoise sea near Pillar of Hercules, English Harbour, Antigua, Caribbean
There’s never a bad time to discover Antigua & Barbuda’s glorious beaches and turquoise waters.

When should I go to Antigua & Barbuda?

The laid-back culture and relatively slow pace of the islands make them an ideal year-round vacation spot, with plenty of activities to keep you occupied no matter the season.

Unlike other countries in the Caribbean, the most festive time to visit Antigua and Barbuda might be during Carnival season – which happens here in the summer. What’s more, hotel rates are cheaper in late July and August in comparison to the peak hotel-occupancy periods of December through April.

Sunny days on a tropical island can be scorching at times, especially from June to September, which are also the hottest months. For those who prefer sun without extreme heat, October to May might be the best time to work on your tan.

Hurricane season officially runs from mid-August to mid-October, although storms can occur anywhere between June and November. Pay careful attention to the forecast when planning travel during these periods, even during Carnival. 

How much time should I spend in Antigua & Barbuda?

Two weeks will allow you to fully indulge in everything the island nation has to offer.

Activities range from exploring the picturesque beaches, to dining at the superb Saltplage Restaurant at the Siboney Bay Beach Club near Dickenson Bay. (Be sure to order the crab cakes topped with pico de gallo and fresh passion-fruit beurre blanc.) 

You’ll find plentiful options for fun and adventure, too, from booking a kayaking tour to explore the mangroves with South Coast Horizons; taking a boat tour to discover secluded coves and coastal features, or even circumnavigating all of Antigua; and zip-lining in the forest reserve. Those who crave excitement, can go scuba diving, Jet Skiing and parasailing.

You can also devote a day to discovering the island’s historical landmarks. Similar to other Caribbean territories, Antigua and Barbuda – formerly called Wadadli by its first, Indigenous inhabitants – has a lengthy history of colonization and a diverse cultural heritage.

If you’re interested in learning about the island’s history, the Museum of Antigua & Barbuda in the capital city of St John’s should be your first stop. 

Aerial view of cars driving on road beside the turquoise crystal sea, Antigua, Caribbean, West Indies
Renting your own car will give you maximum flexibility for exploring Antigua. Roberto Moiola/Sysaworld/Getty Images

Is it easy to get in and around Antigua & Barbuda?

Despite being the largest of Leeward Islands on which English is spoken, the islands are relatively small, with a total area of 443 sq km (171 sq miles), of which Antigua covers 280 sq km (108 sq miles). This makes getting around quite easy. 

We recommend renting your own car on Antigua for maximum ease. At around EC$120 (US$45) per day, a two-week rental will add up, it’s true – but will offer true convenience. (There are a lot of beaches here to explore, remember?) Peak traffic hours are from 8am to 4pm.

If you’re exploring the island on your own schedule, it’s best to avoid the main streets and favor outer roadways that will take you away from the town’s congestion.

Hiring taxi drivers, on the other hand, offers the advantage of a driver with extensive knowledge of the islands. Taxis charge based on the distance and the number of passengers. A short ride might cost around ED$30 (US$11), while a longer trip to a distant location could run ED$75 (US$28).

Since there’s no formal schedule for public transportation, its availability depends entirely on the bus operators’ discretion. Despite its affordability, I wouldn’t recommend it as your sole mode of transportation.

Just 42km (26 miles) north of Antigua, Barbuda can be reached either by a quick 15-minute flight or a 90-minute ferry ride from St John’s. Public transportation is not available in Barbuda due to its small size and centralized nature. Yet taxis and car rentals are readily, especially on the outskirts of Codrington, Barbuda’s sole village.

Top things to do in Antigua & Barbuda

A panoramic view of masted ships and yachts moored at Nelson’s Dockyard National Park, Antigua, Antigua & Barbuda
Nelson’s Dockyard is a historic complex that’s served as a marina continuously since the 18th century. Zoran Karapancev/Shutterstock

Visit Nelson’s Dockyard

A historic site that’s been in continuous use as a marina since the 18th century, Nelson’s Dockyard combines culture, history and range of appealing amenities.

The entire complex, together with nearby archeological sites, have earned UNESCO World Heritage designation. 

Once a former British naval base, this remarkably well-preserved Georgian dockyard takes its name from Admiral Horatio Lord Nelson, who, long before his triumph at Trafalgar, was tasked with enforcing British law in Antigua between 1784 and 1787.

Historical objects on display include Nelson’s telescope and tea caddy, as well as cannons now repurposed as bollards for securing ships. The Tartar Bell – which once graced a ship called HMS Tartar – today hangs over the main gate.

Eat fresh seafood

After a day of sightseeing, head to Copper and Lumber Store Hotel (also at Nelson’s Dockyard) – in particular at the end of the week. Seafood Fridays here offer heaps of fresh fish options: shrimp, succulent mussels and more, all prepared with a tantalizing combination of spices and saffron-infused rice. A different featured dish is offered weekly.

Watch the sun set on Shirley Heights

Those who love hiking may want to tackle 302m (1319ft) Boggy Peak (formerly known as Mt Obama), Antigua’s highest point. Yet for those who want to enjoy a similarly expansive hilltop view of the sunset without the effort, 152m (500ft) Shirley Heights is the next best thing.

The views of the turquoise waters of both English Harbor and Falmouth Harbor are a spectacular sight, especially around sunset. And the evening parties that take place at the top, especially on Sundays, are must-attend events – especially after sampling 10-year-old English Harbour rum, a local speciality. Trust me.

Fungee and pepperpot, the national dish of Antigua and Barbuda: a spicy meat soup with cornmeal dumpilngs
Don’t skip a serving of pepperpot and fungee, the national dish. It’s a rich, spicy stew served with cornmeal dumplings. Shutterstock

Dig into the national dish

At any Antiguan eatery, pepperpot and fungee take the spotlight. The former is a rich stew made with fresh greens such as spinach and okra, and enriched with dumplings and meats like pigtails, salted beef and (occasionally) chicken.

Fungee are soft cornmeal dumplings typically eaten with pepperpot, though they can also be served with other dishes, especially fish. For a taste of the real stuff, swing by Joe Mikes Restaurant in the heart of St Johs.  

Visit the local vegetable market

Nothing says Saturday mornings like a trip to the market, a beloved tradition in Antigua. The St John’s market offers a vibrant atmosphere in which vendors sell fresh fruits, vegetables, spices and more. Immerse yourself in Antiguan culture by engaging with locals and purchasing a few local trinkets.

Place a bet on a horse race in Barbuda

Experience the excitement of bi-weekly horse racing at Coronation Park on River Rd. The ambience is electric, with a vibrant crowd cheering and wagering on the horses. Numerous food vendors offer a wide range of local delicacies, and there’s lively music and entertainment for children, making it the perfect event for the whole family.  

Sample traditional Barbudan cuisine

A traditional Barbudan breakfast includes stewed conch or lobster when in season, saltfish, red herring, corned beef and stewed sausage. (Come hungry!) For a side dish, try chop-up: eggplant, spinach and okra mixed with papaya.

Mashed pumpkin or squash is usually served with boiled egg, fried plantain and bread; fried dumplings; or fritters, either banana- or pumpkin-flavored.

On Saturday mornings in Codrington from 6am until the last fish is sold, three hot-spot street vendors sell roasted yabba dumplings, fritters and an assortment of pan-fried fish. Don’t miss the chance to try the Caribbean cuisine at Uncle Roddy’s in Codrington. Other note-worthy options are The Sage Table and Wa’omoni.

The frigate bird (Fregata magnificens) is the national bird of Antigua & Barbuda
You won’t have a hard time spotting frigate birds in Barbuda, home of the western hemisphere’s largest population. Getty Images

Observe the wildlife at Frigate Bird Sanctuary

A trip to Barbuda is provides the chance to admire Codrington Lagoon’s thriving frigate-bird population – the largest in the western hemisphere. Sharing the sanctuary with the majestic kite-like birds are some 170 migrating species.

You’ll tour the area on a smaller ferry (with 12 passengers maximum); it‘s important to respect the natural habitat of the birds by refraining from touching or feeding them, as well as avoiding the use of drones within the protected area.

My favorite thing to do in Antigua & Barbuda

I always pay a visit to Dawne’s Soleil Kafé in Hodges Bay for an absolutely delicious local menu of creole delights made with fresh produce sourced locally or from neighboring islands.

If you’re a meat lover, try the smoked-meat-and-coconut-milk soup, or the jerk pork stew – and don’t forget the coconut curry goat.

The roasted veggie soup is ideal for vegetarians, while fish lovers can dig into a fried snapper (whole or filet) with sauce soleil. I also highly recommend the chicken breast, filled with spinach and seafood and served alongside a delicious island creole sauce.

For all those beach bums who yearn for a piece of paradise, nothing feels more relaxing than a visit to Runway Beach. Here, you’ll find what seems like an endless stretch of white sand and calm waters, making you want to kick off your sandals and stroll the shore barefoot.

A pile of freshly caught fish at the St John’s Public Fish Market, St John’s, Antigua, Antigua & Barbuda
You won’t find fresher fish than those at the weekly market in St John’s.

How much money do I need for Antigua & Barbuda?

Depending on your choices for accommodation and activities, Antigua can be an expensive destination. All-inclusive resorts run toward the higher end; opting for a smaller boutique hotel offers the flexibility to explore the island and manage your expenses more effectively. 

  • Guest room: starting at EC$400 (US$150) per night

  • Basic hotel room: EC$600–1000 (US$222–370) per night, depending on the season

  • Self-catering apartment (including Airbnb): EC$300 (US$111)

  • Bowl of pepperpot: EC$30 (US$11)

  • BBQ and fries: EC$17 (US$6.30)

  • Coffee: EC$10–20 (US$3.70–7.50)

  • Three-course dinner for two in Barbuda: EC$270 (US$100)

  • Beer/pint at the bar: EC$6–15 (US$2–5.50)

Note that costs are slightly higher in Barbuda, since everything must be imported from Antigua.

10 best things to do in Poland

Beyond the headline cities of Warsaw and Kraków, Poland offers abundant and memorable travel experiences.

Into history and culture? This European gem delivers with more castles, churches, palaces and museums than you could imagine. The great outdoors more your bag? Take your pick from Baltic beaches, snowcapped mountains, meandering rivers, thousands of lakes and 23 national parks.

And if you thought that Polish food and drink was all pickles, potatoes and vodka, think again. That culinary trio is the amuse-bouche for a gastronomic buffet ranging from blueberry-filled dumplings to gold-leaf-flaked liquors.

Read on for our selection of the very best experiences in Poland.

Get a bird’s eye view of Warsaw

Warsaw is one of Europe’s most dynamic capitals, and its current economic boom is symbolised by the Varso Tower which, at 310m (1017ft), is the EU’s tallest skyscraper. The Varso’s 240m-high (787ft) observation deck is slated to open in 2025. In the meantime, enjoy the retro vibes of the observation terrace of the 1955 Palace of Culture & Science; the amazing panorama of Warsaw’s reconstructed Old Town from the bell tower of St Anne’s Church; and vistas over the Vistula from the rooftop garden of Warsaw University Library.

Detour: Fabryka Norblina once produced metal goods. It’s now the biggest of Warsaw’s spate of industrial transformations and includes the city’s biggest food hall and lots of other fun places to eat and drink.

A huge ‎1950s skyscraper, the Palace of Culture & Science, is surrounded by modern skyscrapers in Warsaw.
Take in the views across Warsaw from the monumental ‎Palace of Culture & Science © Michal Bednarek / 500px

Time travel beneath Kraków’s Old Town

Kraków’s atmospheric Old Town is centred on Rynek Główny, Europe’s largest public square, which is dominated by the magnificent Cloth Hall. Go beneath the square to Rynek Underground for a subterranean glimpse into the market of six centuries ago, enhanced by 21st-century audiovisual effects.

Back above ground, on the hour, listen for the hejnał (bugle call) emanating from the taller of the two towers of St Mary’s Basilica on the market square’s west side. Inside, Jan Matejko’s polychromatic murals flank the high altar, Poland’s greatest masterpiece of Gothic art.

Detour: The Wieliczka Salt Mine, one of the world’s oldest salt mines, is around 14km (9 miles) southeast of Kraków. It’s a subterranean labyrinth of some 300km (186 miles) of tunnels, lakes and chambers including astonishing chapels with altarpieces, statues, monuments – even chandeliers – all carved out of salt.

Tour Malbork Castle, the world’s biggest brick building

This UNESCO-listed complex is Europe’s largest castle. Begun by the Teutonic Knights in the 13th century, Malbork Castle was the order’s headquarters for almost 150 years. Despite sustaining serious damage during WWII, almost the entire complex has been preserved, and the castle today looks much as it did six centuries ago. Highlights include the Grand Masters’ Palace with its splendid interiors such as the Great Refectory (look out for its remarkable palm-vaulted ceiling), and the Amber Museum.

Planning tips: Avoid queues by purchasing tickets online. Pack a picnic as the dining options at the castle are limited.

A huge red-brick castle with many towers and battlements stands on the bank of a calm river.
UNESCO-listed Malbork Castle is the largest in Europe © ewg3D / Getty Images

Understand the horrors of war at Gdańsk’s Museum of the Second World War

The first shots of WWII were fired in Gdańsk, so it’s fitting that this historic Baltic Sea port is home to the monumental Museum of the Second World War. Occupying a striking piece of contemporary architecture, the 5000-sq-meter (53,819-sq-ft) museum delivers an emotionally powerful history lesson as it charts the causes, progress and aftermath of the 20th century’s biggest conflict – all from a point of view of Poland being a victim.

Planning tips: This is a massive museum that can easily take half a day to see fully. For a break there’s a museum cafe and you can also leave and return the same day using the same ticket.

Learn about Jewish Poland at POLIN Museum of the History of Polish Jews

Another in Poland’s exceptional collection of museums is POLIN, which charts over 1000 years of Jewish history across the nation’s historic territories. The highlight is a dazzling reconstruction of the painted ceiling and bimah (raised central platform for reading the Torah) of the synagogue that once stood in Gwoździec (now part of Ukraine). The section on the Holocaust (1939–45) is appropriately dark and claustrophobic. The exhibition ends with videos of local Jews talking about the continuing specter of anti-Semitism in Poland.

Detour: Warsaw’s Jewish Historical Institute houses the UNESCO-listed Ringelblum Archive, a precious collection of 6000-plus documents, including diaries, drawings, photographs and posters, that provide first-hand accounts about Nazi Germany’s extermination of Jewish communities in Poland.

Many people are looking at the interactive exhibits inside Inside the Museum of the History of Polish Jews (POLIN) 
Discover the 1000-year history of Jewish people in Poland at the Museum of the History of Polish Jews (POLIN)  © posztos / Shutterstock

Track bison in Białowieża National Park

In the northeast of country, adjoining Belarus, the forests of Białowieża were protected for centuries by royal patronage, first as a private hunting ground for the Polish kings and later for Russian tsars. Today it’s Europe’s largest old-growth forest, and home to some 800 bison. There’s a chance of spotting the continent’s largest mammal and Poland’s national symbol in the wild on an early morning walk among the ancient lime, oak and hornbeam trees – it’s a wonderful opportunity to connect with Polish nature.

Detour: Seven bison live at the European Bison Show Reserve, near the national park. View several other species in large pens here too, including elk, wild boar, deer, a wolf and a three-legged lynx (sadly, the wolf bit off the lynx’s missing leg!).

Encounter Łódź’s abundant street art

The city of Łódź, which grew fabulously wealthy in the late 19th and early 20th centuries through manufacturing, has embraced street art unlike anywhere else in Poland. There are well over 200 public works of art to discover as you walk around, including Pasaż Róży by Joanna Rajkowska, a magical courtyard that’s completely covered with mirror fragments arranged in swirling rose patterns; and Wiedźmin (Witcher), designed by Jakub Rebelka, which is Poland’s tallest piece of street art and covers the 70m-high (230ft) sides of an apartment block.

Detour: Marco Italian Food and Street Art, the cafe at Łódź’s Central Museum of Textiles includes a gallery of images from Urban Forms, the foundation that organises the creation of some of the city’s most impressive pieces of street art.

A colorful mural depicting a man pulling a funny face is painted on the side of a building in Łódź
There are over 200 murals to spot on the streets of Łódź © Bernard Bialorucki / Getty Images

Succumb to the Renaissance charms of Zamość

The beautifully proportioned “Pearl of the Renaissance,” Zamość offers the real deal: an original late-16th-century Old Town centred on a gorgeous arcaded plaza surrounded by Armenian merchants’ residences. The town, in Poland’s southeast corner, is also ringed with defensive bastions that kept the Swedes at bay in the 17th century when they rampaged with ease through other Polish towns.

Detour: The Old Town of Lublin also survived WWII relatively unscathed. Its evocative swirl of legend-filled cobbled lanes and its main square surrounded by Renaissance and baroque townhouses is the prime visitor draw, along with the city’s vibrant festival scene.

Taste gingerbread in Toruń

They’ve been baking and perfecting gingerbread in World Heritage–listed Toruń for centuries. To learn more about this sweet and spicy treat, visit one of town’s two museums devoted to gingerbread. The bigger and better of the two is the Museum of Toruń Gingerbread, housed in the world’s oldest gingerbread bakery. Sign up for one of the museum’s workshops to learn how to make your own gingerbread.

Detour: Gateway to the Great Masurian Lakes, Olsztyn offers an attractive, spruced-up old town and plenty of new hotels, restaurants and bars. Never overwhelmed with tourists, it’s a refreshing slow down before moving on to the usually busier lakeside towns.

A display of decorated gingerbread cookies in the shape of rocking horses, love hearts and houses.
Find out how to make the perfect gingerbread in Toruń © Bob Douglas / Getty Images

Go hiking or skiing in the Tatras

No other area of Poland boasts such a diversity of landscapes as the Tatra Mountains. The most popular area for hiking is the 212-sq-km (82-sq-mile) Tatra National Park, which begins just south of Zakopane, Poland’s most fashionable mountain resort. For a short walk, the densely forested valleys of Dolina Strążyska are lovely. Alternatively strike out for the 1894m (6214ft) summit of Mt Giewont.

When the snow starts to fall, Zakopane’s 50 or so ski lifts and tows crank into action. There’s ski terrain here for everyone, from level cross-country touring to black diamond slopes for hardcore shredders.

Planning tip: Book ahead online for a ticket to visit the Tatra Park Nature Education Centre as numbers are limited to 25 people at a time.

The honeymoon’s over: our post-wedding trip mix-ups and mishaps

No matter how much time or effort you put into researching your dream honeymoon destinations, planning your newly-wed adventures or packing the perfect shared suitcase, don’t be fooled: honeymoons, just like any other trip, can go wrong.

Our staffers thought their post-wedding plans represented the epitome of romance – but hadn’t anticipated baboon invasions, being mistaken for OAPs or dodgy duck casseroles…

Cinque Terre in the sunshine, Italy.
Cinque Terre in the sunshine – what Dora had been dreaming of witnessing © Javen / Shutterstock

Searching (in vain) for sunshine in Italy

We set off on the train south with smiles, swimwear and our base tans set to biscuit brown. What could be more old-school romantic than a sunny honeymoon on the Italian Riviera? We would slurp spaghetti alle vongole in our own version of Lady and the Tramp and frolic in the Bay of Poets yelling Shelley and Byron to each other over that famously crystalline water.

Sadly, it being April, we were met by dense mist, closed restaurants, grey beaches and a mounting suspicion we’d made a very stupid mistake. As we shivered on loungers the price of the groom’s suit – wrapped in our coats and using our books as windshields – we slowly, dejectedly, gave up on our vision. The sun was not coming out.

Dora Ball – Commissioning Editor. Follow her tweets @DoraWhit.

James and his partner pose in front of Uluru, Australia.
The happy couple before the night from hell © James Kay

Australia: honeymoon heaven or hell?

During the Oz leg of our honeymoon, we joined a tour from Darwin to the Red Centre, which reached a climax at Uluru. Camping near ‘the Rock’ sounded great in principle, but sleeping under the stars in a swag bag got old quickly thanks to the ravenous mosquitoes, which took turns to feast on the only exposed part of our bodies: our faces.

We opted for the alternative accommodation, a sort of shed containing primitive bunks (essentially, metal shelves without mattresses). But the shed had retained, and perhaps raised, the daytime temperature of 36°C, and the mozzies found their way in. Cue a night of sliding around in a slick of sweat, clawing an ever-growing number of bites, to a chorus of howling dingoes. Oh, the romance.

James Kay – Editor, lonelyplanet.com. Follow his tweets @JamesKay123.

Two male lions snooze under a tree in South Africa.
Gemma went on a solomoon to help track lions in the wild © Gemma Graham

Going solo in South Africa

My honeymoon didn’t even get off the ground: with two months to go, my fiancé backed out of our wedding. Understandably, I was devastated, but I figured the best thing I could do would be to take myself on a ‘solomoon’, doing something I’d always dreamed of doing, but had never had the courage to.

I booked flights to South Africa and signed up to volunteer on a conservation project tracking lions in the wild. Conditions were basic and the hours long, but being surrounded by nature in this way helped to put everything in perspective. Prior to this, I hadn’t been further than the Canary Islands, but the trip gave me the travel bug, which ultimately led to me working for Lonely Planet. Mishap? What mishap?

Gemma Graham – Destination Editor, Northern Europe. Follow her tweets @oh_gg.

Imogen and Tom Hall pose in front of the baobab trees in Madagascar.
Feeling perkier, just in time for the baobabs in Madagascar © Imogen Hall

Making memories (good and bad) in Madagascar

With both of us working in travel we really wanted to push the boat out when it came to our honeymoon, so we jumped at the chance to take an organised canoe trip down the Tsiribihina River in Madagascar. For three days we floated along, camping on the banks at night and watching lemurs swing through the trees by day. It was idyllic. Until the last night.

We were used to dinner being a leisurely affair, so we marvelled at how quickly our duck casserole appeared, only for me to have it appear again and again and again for another three days. I eventually surfaced – several pounds lighter – to make it to the incredible baobabs; I still cherish the memory of the canoe trip, just not its spectacularly unromantic end.

Imogen Hall – Lonely Planet’s family travel expert. Follow her tweets @ImogenMaryHall.

A misty rainforest in Australia.
Getting lost in an ancient forest after checking into a hotel for ancient people isn’t ideal © zstock / Shutterstock

Getting the OAP treatment in Australia

We accidentally honeymooned in an old people’s home. Sort of. We’d flown home internationally to wed on the north coast of New South Wales, Australia, and only had a few days for a minimoon, so we headed into the mountains for a rainforest retreat. When we arrived we were surprised that the receptionists were so anxious for us to understand the ‘complicated’ keycard system and for us to join ‘everyone’ for tea and cheese at 4pm. We later realised that the retreat mainly catered to elderly clientele and that there would be betting on the horses in the dining room over dinner.

Giving up on the retreat, we went hiking, only for me to be bitten by a snake (I was fine) and for us to get lost in the mountain mist, surrounded by ghostly wallabies. It was a weird but memorable three days.

Heather Champion – Product Editor. Follow her on Instagram @heathesaurus.

Ben and his new wife pose with an inflatable canoe in Costa Rica.
Three’s a crowd on honeymoon – or at least means no cocktails © Ben Buckner

A bump in the road to Costa Rica

We got married in June but held off until October for our honeymoon in Costa Rica. It was to be a two-part vacation – half high adventure and half complete relaxation. We would start with ziplining, 4WDs, hot springs and more in La Fortuna, then head to an all-inclusive resort on the coast, where we would drink bottomless cocktails on the beach.

But in the four months between the wedding and honeymoon all our plans came unravelled – we got pregnant. Or rather, my wife did. No more zip lines, hot springs or alcohol. We still had an amazing time, including an inflatable kayak river trip and all the rainforest hiking we could ask for. We’ll just have to go back for the zip lines.

Ben Buckner – Destination Editor, USA (West) & Canada. Follow his tweets @BuckPacking.

A profile of a baboon with piercing orange eyes.
Not quite the eyes you want gazing at you on a romantic trip… © Tim de Boeck / Shutterstock

A terrifying encounter in Tanzania

The day I was chased out of the Malaysian jungle by monkeys was the day I realised that they’re mean little creatures. On safari in the Serengeti many years later, my husband snapped photos of monkeys while I stayed on my guard. I wasn’t fooled by their playful nature or their silly noises; I was primed, ready for imminent monkey attack.

That evening on the balcony at our lodge, I’d finally started to relax when a massive baboon jumped down from the roof and sat at our table. I screamed, ran inside and hid behind the bar. My poor husband had to explain both the screaming and his missing wife to the staff, whilst calmly dealing with the primate stealing our nuts.

Claire Naylor – Senior Editor. Follow her tweets @RoadTripJones.

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A first-time guide to Armenia

On Europe’s far eastern flank, Armenia is one of the few remaining countries on the continent where you can truly get off the beaten track. (Think: Albania five years ago.)

Rich in history and culture, this captivating country in the Caucasus is dotted with enchanting stone monasteries, many dating back more than eight centuries. Its growing capital, Yerevan, is packed from (tuff-volcanic-stone) wall to wall with galleries, performance venues and feast-worthy restaurants. And – appropriately for such a mountainous country – there’s ample hiking, too, with plenty of cozy mountain resorts and homestays to spend a few nights.

But the best part about traveling to Armenia is having the opportunity to chat with locals. Their pride and passion for their homeland is fascinating, and they might make you feel like an Armenian yourself.

Here’s everything you need to know before you visit.

Armenia is one of the best countries to visit next year. See our full list of Best in Travel 2025 winners.

A poppy field with mountains in the distance near Jermuk, Vayots Dzor Region, Armenia
Wild poppies dot mountain meadows each spring in Armenia © Emad aljumah / Getty Images

When should I go to Armenia?

Armenia is hopping in summer – though it’s also very hot, with July and August temperatures in Yerevan hovering around 30°C (86°F). Summer is also time for fun festivals like Vardavar (during which locals run around tossing buckets of water at each other – and likely you), and for cooling off in Lake Sevan.

You can avoid the heat by visiting in in May or June, when it’s usually between 10°C (50°F) and 30°C (86°F) in Yerevan. Springtime is also wonderful for hiking across Armenian hilltops and valleys, which are speckled with millions of wildflowers. (Locals brew the flowers into tea or make them into jewelry.) Fall is another wise time to visit since there are fewer crowds and usually pleasant temperatures.

The long winter (November to March) isn’t ideal as many tourist amenities shut down and the temperatures can drop below freezing. If you do find yourself in Armenia at that time, stick to Yerevan, where there are plenty of ways to warm up with a glass of wine. Some great spots include In Vino wine bar and Ulikhanyan Jazz Club.

How much time should I spend in Armenia?

Many people pop over to Armenia after visiting Georgia – it’s a quick and easy trip over the land border to Armenia’s UNESCO-listed monasteries Sanahin and Haghpat. If you’re short on time, fly directly into Yerevan’s Zvartnots Airport, which has lately been welcoming more and more flights from Europe and the Middle East.

If you have time, spend a week or two circling Armenia in a car – the country is slightly smaller than Belgium, so it won’t take too much time.

Landscape shot of the road between the city of Meghri and the Iranian border, Armenia
Having your own car lets you explore the farthest corners of Armenia © Jean-Philippe Tournut / Getty Images

Is it easy to get in and around Armenia?

Armenia is still connected by Soviet-era minibuses called marshrutky, which can be a frustrating mode of travel as they don’t have fixed schedules. Trains, which run between Yerevan and Batumi in Georgia with a few stops along the way, are extremely slow, so aren’t recommended if unless you have ample time.

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The easiest option to get around Armenia is via car or van tours. You’ll find plenty of operators with reasonable prices around Republic Square in Yerevan.

Yerevan itself is very walkable, and ride-hailing apps GG and Yandex are a common and affordable way to get around (Armenia doesn’t have Uber). Yerevan also has spiffy new city buses and a one-line subway, though you won’t likely need them if you stick to exploring the city center.

If you have time, the best way to explore Armenia is by renting a car from the airport or through an agency in Yerevan. Having your own vehicle will give you the freedom to stop when you want and hike to remote monasteries. There are also a few cool campgrounds for road trippers on a budget, including Crossway Camping, where you can stay in a hippie bus, or Camping 3 Gs, which has epic views.

A hiker looks out at the green hills and valley beyond, Dilijan National Park, Armenia
Hiking is an invigorating way to discover Armenia’s countryside © Dmitriy Gutkovskiy / Shutterstock

Top things to do in Armenia

A visit to Armenia will undoubtedly include a visit to one of its marvelous stone monasteries – after all, Armenia is the world’s first Christian nation. Some of the finest are within a couple of hours from Yerevan, including Noravank, which shines gold at sunset, and Khor Virap, where Surp Gregory the Illuminator was imprisoned before convincing King Tiridates III to declare Armenia Christian in 301. Most monasteries are located in canyons or on mountaintops; explore them on foot with the help of local hiking app HIKEArmenia.

A trip to Armenia’s cities is wonderful if you’re into art and high culture. Yerevan is filled with art galleries dedicated to notable Armenian artists like Sergei Parajanov – one of the world’s great film directors – and performance venues like the grand National Opera and Ballet Theatre. In Armenia’s second city, Gyumri, you can wander around tuff-black-stone buildings and visit the Aslamazyan Museum, which is dedicated to two artist sisters, one of whom many consider Armenia’s Frida Kahlo.

Armenia is a burgeoning wine destination and home to the world’s oldest winery, inside the Areni-1 Cave. You can sip Armenia’s unique areni grape wine among vineyards at Momik Wine Cube.

Or hit the trails. Surrounded by forested paths, Dilijan is a great mountaintop base; you can also hike up Mt Aragats, Armenia’s tallest mountain. If you’re up for a (much) bigger challenge, you can through-hike the Armenian section of the epic Transcaucasian Trail.

An architectural detail from the Cascade Complex, Yerevan, Armenia
The massive Soviet-era Cascade in Yerevan now houses the Cafesjian Center for the Arts © Stefan Cristian Cioata / Getty Images

My favorite thing to do in Armenia

For those who lived through the Soviet days, decaying brutalist stone architecture might be considered a painful reminder of the USSR’s collapse. For me, as a Canadian, exploring abandoned Soviet structures is my favorite thing to do in Armenia.

Yerevan’s Children’s Railway still runs and is fantastic, as is the pyramid-like Cafesjian Center for the Arts (aka the Cascade), which has been reimagined as an amazing art gallery and sculpture garden. Outside the capital, check out the telescopes around Byurakan. There are sometimes tours of the Byurakan Astrophysical Observatory and – depending on the guard’s mood – you have a good shot of visiting the abandoned Radio Optical Observatory 54.

People sit at an outdoor cafe in the evening, Yerevan, Armenia
You’ll find excellent restaurants all over Yerevan © ArtNat / Shutterstock

How much money do I need for Armenia?

Armenia has its own currency, the dram, easily exchanged at money changers in Yerevan or withdrawn from ATM with little or no fees. Credit cards are widely accepted in Yerevan, but not outside the capital.

While Armenia might be cheap by European standards, prices are still higher than many nearby Central Asian countries. The most expensive place is Yerevan, and there are several high-priced resort areas like Dilijan in the north, as well as along the western beaches of Lake Sevan.

If you’re on a budget, try a homestay or B&B – these allow you to connect with locals and often feature the option of learning to make Armenian dishes like gata (cake).

  • Hostel room: Around 7500AMD (around US$20)

  • Basic room for two: Starting at 30,000AMD ($80)

  • Self-catering apartment (including Airbnb): Starting at 20,000AMD ($50)

  • Public-transport ticket: 300AMD ($1)

  • Soorch (Armenian coffee): 500–800AMD ($2)

  • Lahmajun (Armenian flatbread): 500–1500AMD ($2–3)

  • Dinner for two: Around 7500AMD ($20) and up

  • Local beer at the bar: 800AMD ($2)

Is Armenia safe?

Tensions have been rumbling with neighboring Azerbaijan since the fall of the Soviet Union, leading to multiple wars and frequent fire across Armenia’s eastern border. In 2023, Azerbaijan seized the disputed territory of Nagorno-Karabakh; discussions of a permanent peace deal remain ongoing. Whether a peace deal is reached or not, Armenia is generally safe to visit, though it’s a good idea to avoid the border areas with Azerbaijan.

A man looks up at a vaulted ceiling at Sanahin Monastery, Armenia
Historic stone monasteries like Sanahin are some of Armenia’s best-known attractions © Justin Foulkes / Lonely Planet

Can you travel between Armenia, Azerbaijan and Türkiye?

You cannot travel by land or air between Armenia and Azerbaijan directly, though you may connect through a third country like Georgia. Flights are available to and from Türkiye; the land border is only open to those who aren’t traveling on Armenian or Turkish passports.

Land borders are open with Georgia and Iran, but be sure to carefully research visa requirements if thinking about a trip to the latter.

How much English is spoken in Armenia?

Since the principal languages spoken are Armenian and Russian, fluent English is rare in Armenia, Yet don’t be discouraged. You should be fine with English in Yerevan, and Armenians are famous for making themselves understood using any means possible, including their hands.

Candles and a religious icon in Saint Sarkis Cathedral, Yerevan, Armenia
Be sure to show respect by covering up in Armenia’s beautiful churches © Barney.DC / Shutterstock

Do I have to cover up?

Due to their Christian Orthodox faith, Armenians tend to dress more conservatively and show less skin than in Western Europe. But things are starting to change, due in large part to the influx of liberal Russians fleeing the war with Ukraine. Nevertheless, it’s still a good idea to dress respectfully, especially when entering a church.

Big Little Lies filming locations in Monterey you won’t want to miss

For lovers of the Big Little Lies TV series it is not just the incredible relationships forged by Madeline, Renata, Bonnie, Celeste and Jane that keep viewers coming back for more. It is also the epic setting and sweeping shots of Monterey, Big Sur and Carmel-by-the-Sea that feature nearly as prominently as the amazing Monterey 5 and make us drool with travel lust.

The Bixby Bridge with some fog and the ocean is a filming location in Big Little Lies
The Bixby Bridge makes constant cameos in Big Little Lies, with good reason © Irina88w / Getty Images

So where can fans go to see these amazing places? Read on to find out.

A view of wharf buildings on stilts with a reflection in the water that served as a Big Little Lies filming location in Monterey
Old Fisherman’s Wharf in Monterey oozes with ambiance and was a popular backdrop for many a Madeline and Celeste gossip session © S. Greg Panosian / Getty Images

Old Fisherman’s Wharf

In the first season of Big Little Lies Jane, Madeline and Celeste often bonded at the fictional Blues Blues cafe. While Blues Blues may not exist, Paluca Trattoria does. Located on the atmospheric Old Fisherman’s Wharf which houses shops and local seafood markets, Paluca was the inspiration for the Blues Blues set in the show.

But there are other amazing cafe’s and restaurants to try in the area too, we like the Alvarado Street Brewery for excellent craft beer and superior bar food.

People silouetted in the blue light of a huge aquarium tank looking at and photographing bright orange jelly fish at the Monterey Bay Aquarium in Monterey California one of the Big Little Lies filming locations
Expertly showcasing and educating about California’s amazingly diverse marine ecosystem, the world-class Monterey Bay Aquarium is a must visit even if you only gawk at the jellies © Denny Soetiono / Getty Images

Monterey Bay Aquarium

In the second season Big Little Lies be sure to keep a look out for the Monterey Bay Aquarium (it also made a cameo in the first season). Considered one of the best aquariums in the world, a visit here is one of Monterey’s most mesmerizing experiences. The three-story kelp forest tank holds 2000 gallons of water and is a meticulous reproduction of the natural conditions just outside.

Plan to spend a good part of the day appreciating all the amazing creatures that fill our oceans. The jellyfish are nothing short of amazing.

a boardwalk between two California cypress trees deadends into the beach a perfect spot for a run like Jane in Big Little Lies filmed in Monterey
Monterey State Beach is as stunning as it is accessible, perfect for Jane-like runs and fun in the sun © S. Goodwin4813 / Getty Images

Del Monte Beach

No one knows if Jane is still going to need to run out her feels in the second season (all signs point to yes), but in the first season she spent a lot of time on Del Monte Beach. This picturesque beach is part of Monterey State beach and is a popular surfing spot.

There are even fire pits available for sunset s’more making (and if you don’t know what you’re missing with s’mores – check it out).

The facade of Colton Hall which mirrors the Greek Revival Style and was used as a meeting room in the first season of Big Little Lies
The historic Colton Hall has held civil debates for everything from Avenue Q to the original California Constitution © Richard Cummins / Getty Images

Colton Hall

One huge plot point from Season 1 of Big Little Lies was Madeline’s dedication to the production of Avenue Q. When Madeline’s neighbors got together to debate the controversial show, it was done at Colton Hall. A longtime landmark in the city of Monterey, this is where California’s first constitutional convention took place in 1849.

If California history is your thing you might check out the Custom House, where the US flag first flew formally declaring that California was annexed from Mexico.

Waves crash on a rocky shore with the sun rising over cypress trees and a rocky peninsula
Lover’s Point in Pacific Grove is a great place to catch a sunset or have a picnic © Mitch Tobias / Getty Images

Lover’s Point Park in Pacific Grove

Admittedly, romantic relationships in Big Little Lies are problematic and maybe its ironic, but Lover’s Point made appearances in a few episodes during the first season and we’ll keep an eye out for more in season 2. The charming village of Pacific Grove is just a little outside Monterey and Lover’s Point Park is the perfect place to enjoy a picnic and a view. We suggest grabbing a Thai lunch box from Zab Zab in Monterey before heading north just a few minutes.

After your picnic head to the Monarch Grove Sanctuary where thousands of migratory butterflies gather between November and February.

Garrapata State Park is known for wildflowers and gorgous coastal views one of the many reasons it is a filming location in Big Little Lies
The wildflowers in Garrapata State Park are only one of the many draws © Doug Steakley / Getty Images

Garrapata State Park

This writer spends a lot of time, while watching Big Little Lies, trying to figure out where the Monterey 5 actually live. They are constantly driving on Bixby Bridge into and out of Big Sur and hanging out at Garrapata State Park. Trust me, I would too if I lived anywhere close to these epic landmarks. If you’re looking for the views of steep cliffs, crashing waves and misty shorelines that Big Little Lies is riddled with you’ll find them here.

Fancy a weekend in Big Sur? Find out how here.

A guide to Green Spain: The best of the northern region

Green Spain’s wild coastline, gastronomic delights, charming historic towns and unique cultural identity are incomparable. Nature and tradition have blessed these four provinces (Galicia, Asturias, Cantabria and Basque Country) with something for everyone, from hardcore adventurers to laid-back beachgoers.

In fact, there’s so much this northern region of Spain offers – for so many different types of travelers – that the best way to start planning is to talk to a local, passionate and expert guide.

We spoke with Estefanía Gonzalez, an Official Tourist Guide of Galicia and a cultural mediator at Parque Arqueolóxico da Cultura Castrexa – an archaeological park and interpretive center. We also talked to David Iglesias Pérez of Mil Positivos, an adventure travel planning service that runs mountain tours throughout northern Spain. With suggestions from the two of them, here are our favorite highlights of gorgeous Green Spain, and some insight on how a guide can help you create a unique, personalized experience – no matter what kind of adventure you’re looking for:

Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela.
Estefanía Gonzalez leads the way through a ruin in the Fragas do Eume.
Playa de Lagoa in El Parque Natural Dunas de Corrubedo.
Fresh seafood at Mercado de Abastos.
Clockwise from top left: Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. Coke Bartrina for Lonely Planet. Estefanía Gonzalez leads the way through a ruin in the Fragas do Eume. Blake Horn for Lonely Planet. Fresh seafood at Mercado de Abastos. Blake Horn for Lonely Planet. Playa de Lagoa in El Parque Natural Dunas de Corrubedo. Coke Bartrina for Lonely Planet

Galicia

Galicia is known for the incomparable atmosphere of Santiago de Compostela – the end point of the Camino de Santiago pilgrim trails – as well as its stunning coastal landscape, and perhaps the most delicious seafood in Europe. Its unique brand of Celtic and Spanish culture, rich history and charming traditions make it an authentic destination for culture aficionados, nature lovers and gastronomy enthusiasts alike.

  • Santiago de Compostela: This unique city is imbued with the aura of a millennium’s worth of journeys.

  • Costa da Morte: This is the eerily beautiful ‘Coast of Death,’ the westernmost outpost of mainland Spain, where mysteries and legends abound.

  • O Courel: Its mountains, forests, waterfalls, rivers, fortified villages and medieval remains make it a place of unparalleled beauty that leaves no one indifferent.

  • Islas Cíes: These three spectacular islands are home to some of Galicia’s most splendid beaches. Camping there is a unique experience in a dreamlike and highly protected environment.

  • Riás Altas: The wild, rugged coastline and southern Europe’s highest ocean cliffs are awe-inspiring from the Garita de Herbeira viewpoint.

  • Fragas do Eume: This natural park is one of the best-preserved Atlantic forests in Europe and a peaceful retreat with waterfalls, swinging bridges and endless views.

  • Seafood: The fruits of the ocean and coastline, from tender seabass, turbot or hake to octopus, squid, crabs, cockles, scallops, mussels and countless other crustaceans, are sublime. Try the pulpo á feira (octopus Galician style).

What the guides say: “A tour of the Ribeira Sacra is a perfect, complete experience that captures all the diversity and beauty of northern Spain. Here you can combine hiking trails, a riverboat ride in Sil Canyon, visits to wineries, Romanesque art at the monasteries, gastronomy and history – including archaeological sites and charming villages.” – Estefanía

Don’t miss: Percebes

Galicia is one of the finest spots on the planet to sample those tender, unusual crustaceans known as percebes. In a death-defying tradition, percebes (also known as goose barnacles), are harvested by skilled divers from the jagged cliffs on the Costa da Morte using methods passed down through generations. The barnacles cling strongly below the waterline, and the best come from the most dangerous places, where the waves crash hardest against the rocks: that’s where the muscle you’ll eventually eat is particularly strong and developed.

All that dangerous work is worth it. The flavor of percebes is justifiably celebrated – the juicy snap, creamy taste and faintly salty finish is like a kiss from the sea. They’re usually served with just a quick boil or steam in sea or salt water, but some places add a garlic-and-parsley sauce. The first person to try percebes sure was one adventurous individual, but we’re glad they did.

Tapping a cask of Green Spain's famous cider.
Asturias has some of the most picturesque landscapes in all of Spain.
The beaches in Asturias are known for their rugged beauty, pristine sands, and crystal-clear waters.
The picture-perfect fishing ports of Asturias, like Luarca, are charming as well.
Clockwise from top left: Tapping a cask of Green Spain’s famous cider. James Jackman for Lonely Planet. Asturias has some of the most picturesque landscapes in all of Spain. Jack Pearce for Lonely Planet. The picture-perfect fishing ports of Asturias, like Luarca, are charming as well. Coke Bartrina for Lonely Planet. The beaches in Asturias are known for their rugged beauty, pristine sands, and crystal-clear waters. Coke Bartrina for Lonely Planet

Asturias

Talk about something for everyone! Asturias is a land full of contrasts – colorful fishing ports and more than 200 beaches; soaring mountains and deep valleys; pre-Romanesque architecture and cultured cities; fizzy cider and pungent cheeses.

  • Oviedo: A fun, sophisticated city with a stash of intriguing sights, some excellent restaurants and a lively population.Architecture fans will love the cathedral and pre-Romanesque buildings.

  • Cider: Asturians have been pouring cider since as far back as the 8th century, and the province’s sidrerías (cider bars) – especially in Gijón – are always a lively scene

  • Cueva de Tito Bustillo: This UNESCO-listed cave contains some of Spain’s finest cave art, including superb horse paintings probably done around 15,000 to 10,000 BCE.

  • Senda del Oso: For a fun outing with kids, rent bikes for a leisurely ride down this former mine railway and see if you can spot the (enclosed) Cantabrian brown bears.

  • Parque Natural de Somiedo and Saliencia Lakes: Need more bears? You can find them here too. Five verdant valleys descend from beautiful mountain country that few foreigners reach. The view of Lago del Valle and Salienca from Picos Albos is stunning.

  • Cudillero: Pastel-painted fishing port houses cascade down to a tiny port on a narrow inlet. Is it the most picturesque fishing village in Spain? Who are we to argue?

What the guides say: The Natural Park of the Ubiñas and the Mesa is the perfect place to visit if you like trekking and mountaineering. You’ll climb the highest mountains of this Natural Park, Ubiña (Grande and Pequeña), Los Fontanes (North and South) and the Picu Fariñentu (Around 8,000 feet) and stay overnight at Refugio de la Vega del Meicín in the heart of the Ubiñas massif.– David Iglesias

The Picos de Europa are spectacular.
Hikers of all kinds flock to the Picos for outdoor adventures.
The Ruta del Cares in particular is one of the most spectacular hikes in Spain.
It's carved into and through the walls of a dramatic gorge.
Clockwise from top left: The Picos de Europa are spectacular.. Hikers of all kinds flock to the Picos for outdoor adventures.. It’s carved into and through the walls of a dramatic gorge.. The Ruta del Cares in particular is one of the most spectacular hikes in Spain. Coke Bartrina for Lonely Planet

The Picos de Europa

Limestone peaks, lush valleys and crystal-clear rivers make the Parque Nacional de los Picos de Europa a paradise for hikers, climbers and nature lovers. Among the breathtaking views and unique wildlife, there is a diverse range of outdoor activities.

  • Fuente Dé: The ridiculously popular Teleférico de Fuente Dé cable car whisks people to the superb heights of the southeastern Picos.

  • Ruta del Cares: A trail is carved high into and through the rugged walls of a magnificent and dramatic gorge, with limestone peaks soaring far above.

  • Sunset from the Collado Jermoso: This mountain refuge in the central massif is located more than 3,280 feet above the Valdéon valley. It’s the perfect place to end a day of mountaineering.

  • Lagos de Covadonga: These two beautiful little lakes are set between absurdly picturesque peaks. Some stunning walks follow marked and looped trails.

  • Paddling the Río Sella: Several agencies in Arriondas, Cangas de Onis and other nearby towns rent canoes, kayaks, paddles and everything else you need for a rapids-run.

  • Casadielles: A flaky Asturian pastry filled with walnuts and anise. It comes from traditional Sephardic cooking and is a delicious way to end a day of outdoor exertion.

What the guides say: “More and more visitors are choosing to spread their stay over several days and points of interest. This allows them to explore the area in depth and enjoy the experience in a more authentic way. (Green Spain) should be enjoyed leisurely, allowing ample time to appreciate its beauty from all possible perspectives.” – Estefanía

Santillana del Mar is known for its well-preserved medieval architecture.
This scale replica of the Cave of Altamira reflects the beauty of the renowned cave paiting.
Left: Santillana del Mar is known for its well-preserved medieval architecture. Right: This scale replica of the Cave of Altamira reflects the beauty of the renowned cave paiting. James Jackman for Lonely Planet

Cantabria

Sharing the Picos de Europa with Asturias, Cantabria draws in outdoor adventurers and nature lovers with its rugged coastline, mysterious ancient cave art, cliff-backed beaches and lush green valleys. Sturdy stone houses with red-tile roofs make road tripping here a joy, and the capital city Santander buzzes with energy and culinary experimentation.

  • Altamira: Spain’s most renowned cave paintings date back thousands of years, showcasing intricate depictions of animals and human hands.

  • Santander: The belle-époque elegance of El Sardinero’s sandy beach area, an array of bewitching pintxos (elaborate tapas) bars, and the splashy Centro Botin arts center give Santander its unique character.

  • Santillana del Mar: This medieval jewel is in a perfect state of preservation, with its bright cobbled streets, flower-filled balconies and huddle of tanned stone and brick buildings.

  • Comillas: Check out the funky buildings in this small hilltop village. Its medieval center is built around cobbled plazas, and Modernista architects have found creative outlet in designing the surrounding houses.

  • Sardines: A Cantabrian specialty pulled from the cold water, sardines here are typically grilled over open flames and seasoned with just a touch of salt. Delicious!.

What the guides say: Our favorite places in the Cantabrian Mountains are its forests, beautiful, green and full of life, and its magnificent mountains, which rise abruptly from the bottom of the valleys to almost touching the sky. Local culture and traditions here have endured since ancient times… The Sephardic lifestyle, harvesting, crafts, popular knowledge, the use of the environment and the adaptation to the environment. There are many stories to tell … legends included.– David Iglesias

The Guggenheim in Bilbao is one of Spain's architectural treasures.
Fresh fish is picked up and ready to be grilled for the diners at Elkano in Getaria.
Wind your way up Monte Jaizkibel for a ruined fortress and spectacular views.
The vineyards of Txomin Etxaniz winery.
Clockwise from top left: The Guggenheim in Bilbao is one of Spain’s architectural treasures.. Fresh fish is picked up and ready to be grilled for the diners at Elkano in Getaria.. The vineyards of Txomin Etxaniz winery.. Wind your way up Monte Jaizkibel for a ruined fortress and spectacular views. Coke Bartrina for Lonely Planet

Basque Country

Furthest east among Green Spain’s four provinces, the Basque Country demands exploration beyond the delightful and cosmopolitan main cities of Bilbao, Vitoria and San Sebastián. Its renowned culinary scene, distinct language and traditions, and mix of mountain and coastal landscapes mean your travels here are always curious and frequently rewarded.

  • Bilbao: The Guggenheim, one of Spain’s architectural treasures, is just the jewel in this city’s crown. You can find artistic inspiration down nearly every street of the Old Town.

  • San Sebastián: Elegant art nouveau buildings look out over perfect La Concha Bay, green Mount Urgull rises from its edge, and fabulous pintxos are down every cobbled lane.

  • The Basque Coast: The cultural and natural richness is on full display in coastal towns like Bermeo. At low tide, you can walk to a scenic island just off-shore from picture-perfect Lekeitio.

  • Surfing Zarautz or Mundaka: Wave riding comes with the territory on these pretty – if chilly – waterfront spots. Mundaka’s break is particularly legendary.

  • San Juan de Gaztelugatxe: This jaw-dropping clifftop hermitage has only grown in popularity since it was used to represent Dragonstone in the HBO shows Game of Thrones and House of the Dragon.

What the guides say: “(Using a local guide) to incorporate local culture, traditions and hidden gems as much as possible is the key to a visit you’ll always remember. Passing through magical places full of secrets or curiosities, experiencing traditions firsthand and allowing yourself to feel, experience and see it with your own eyes will ensure your experience remains in your mind and heart.” – Estefanía

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8 of the best dive sites in the Caribbean

Your heart pounds overtime with excitement as you finally descend to the bottom of a dive site. A whole new world unfolds before your eyes. From walls to reefs, wrecks to piers, scuba diving allows you to tap into your inner adventurous self and see an unlimited amount of fascinating marine life in its natural habitat.

Many Caribbean islands offer diving during all seasons so your chances of spotting diverse organisms – from sea horses to reef sharks, turtles to shrimp – is possible year-round. Getting certified through PADI (Professional Association of Diving Instructors) is a must and can be done on most Caribbean islands, allowing you to use your certification for life (although you may benefit from a refresher course if you have a large gap between dives). From night dives to shipwrecks, you’ll see that the variation in these underwater landscapes is endless. Here are our favorite dive destinations in the Caribbean.

1. Bat Cave, St Vincent

What to expect: An underwater marvel awaits at St Vincent’s Byahaut Bat Cave: you swim through a fissure between two rocks in order to enter the dive site. Look up at the top of the cave to see dozens of bats hanging out on the ledges before making your descent. There is plenty of marine life at around 40–60ft (12–18m) deep, including eagle rays, pipefish and seahorses.

What to know: Book an early morning dive trip to Bat Cave to avoid the crowds that come on other dive boats. Seeing the bats inside the cave is a great bucket list diving experience for the adventurous.

How to make it happen: The Sandals St Vincent Dive Center offers all-inclusive diving while staying on the property, including all equipment needed. Alternatively, book your trip through dive operators such as Canouan Scuba Center or Dive St Vincent.

2. Deep Plane, Jamaica

What to expect: In Western Jamaica, near Negril, the Deep Plane dive site offers divers the chance to explore the nooks and crannies of a Cessna 152 aircraft wreck, for which the site is named. There is also a robust and active coral reef surrounding the wreck. Once you descend to the plane, look for colorful coral crusting along the wreck as well as a variety of marine life, including turtles, sharks, sea fans and various rays living on the coral. 

What to know: Diving is possible year-round, but since the plane sits at 90ft deep (27m) it is recommended for advanced divers only, which is those with a PADI Advanced Open Water Certification or higher. 

Make it happen: You can rent equipment and take PADI dive courses at the ScubaCaribe dive shop in Negril. The dive instructors are friendly and knowledgeable about first-timers’ concerns like answering questions about depth, safety, and proper equipment. You can also book through One Love Scuba Dive Center, which is on the Seven Mile Beach at Traveller’s Beach Resort. Any dives booked through the company include transportation from your Negril accomodations.

Large school of brightly colored Blackbar soldierfish swirl around an underwater pinnacle as a scuba diver watches on
There’s lots to see at dive sites near Roseau in Dominica. Stephen Frink/Getty Images

3. Fort Young House Reef, Dominica

What to expect: If you are looking for an exhilarating night dive, head for the town of Roseau in the southern part of the island of Dominica, which is home to the Fort Young House Reef. The plentiful sponge life and soft coral that attaches to the underwater volcanic rock at this dive site attracts nocturnal marine life, like octopus and squid, and tons of moray eels, which you can view using your dive light. 

What to know: The site is easily accessible via a 5-minute boat ride from the Fort Young Hotel dock in Roseau. The hotel itself is geared for scuba divers with its dive shop and scuba school. Groups of divers regularly meet in the onsite restaurant to swap stories.

Make it happen: The PADI dive instructors at the Fort Young Hotel offer night dives to all certification levels year-round and you can rent all equipment from the dive shop there.

4. Stingraysted, St Croix

What to expect: Stingraystead in St Croix, the US Virgin Islands, is a plateau with a sloping wall of sand on the Green Cay Slope Mini Wall System filled with coral heads. This site has a depth of 32ft (10m) for the mooring and is a popular place for stingrays of all sizes as well as flounders and jawfish. The wall starts at 40ft (12m) and then drops thousands of feet to the ocean floor.

What to know: With a max dive depth of 60ft (18m), Stingraysted is a site that welcomes beginners and advanced divers. 

Make it happen: Dive boats head out from the Christiansted boardwalk marina. Dive shops located along the boardwalk include Dive Experience, St Croix Ultimate Bluewater Adventures and Latitude 17 Scuba. Each dive shop offers complete sets of diving equipment for rent.

Bright coral and fish on a reef as two divers swim by
Explore the shallow artificial reefs off the coast of Sint Eustatius. Richard Cavanaugh/Shutterstock

5. STENAPA Reef, Sint Eustatius

What to expect: The island of Sint Eustatius has a marine park called STENAPA (St Eustatius National Marine Park) and this reef unfolds to a maximum depth of 60ft (18m). The artificial reef includes a combination of sunken items like a tugboat, pieces of broken shipwrecks, and long metal pipes created to attract marine life to the reserve along the artificial reef. Some of the organisms to spot include barracuda, sponges, French Angelfish and Caribbean reef sharks.

What to know: Diving in the national marine park is a must, but if you have a day break from diving, it’s worth a visit to the dormant volcano on the island, the Quill, which offers 8 trails that weave throughout the thorny woodland and elfin forest. You can take a self-guided tour and look for seedless breadfruit hanging from their parent trees, see wild-growing, edible raspberries that bloom naturally in the forest, or see the sway of small round fruit growing on grape trees.

Make it happen: Underwater exploration can be led by PADI-certified instructors at Scubaqua, a local dive shop situated on the black sand beach in the Lowertown harbor area.

6. Mike’s Maze, Sint Maarten

What to expect: For beginner divers, Mike’s Maze in Sint Maarten is a great choice due to the maximum depth being only 50ft (15m). However, there is still so much to see at this location at this depth: small overhangs and shallow caves allow for you to test your curiosity in a mild way. Sit back and watch a theater-worthy display of active green sea turtles eating off the sea grass, an array of textured sea stars lying on sand or – if you’re lucky – a few reef sharks patrolling the site.

What to know: It’s best to travel to Sint Maarten during the low season (the peak tourist seasons are December through April and July and August). I like the low season because there are often less people in your dive group. You will be able to spread out easier on the boat and you have more attention from the dive instructor. The summer months are the rainy season but this rarely causes disruption for diving. As long as it is not a heavy storm, visibility will be adequate for an enjoyable dive.

Make it happen: Rent all of your necessary gear at the Dive Sint Maarten dive shop located in the bustling Bobby’s Marina.

A large school of yellow and silver snapper in the crystal clear swim above a coral reef
Look out for snapper in the crystal-clear waters of the Turks and Caicos islands. Eric Carlander/Shutterstock

7. Coral Gables, Turks and Caicos

What to expect: Only a 15-minute boat ride from the shore of Grace Bay in Turks and Caicos, the Coral Gables dive site is located in the island’s Princess Alexandra National Marine Park, which has been a protected marine area for over 30 years. The dive site is great for beginners because the maximum depth is only 30ft (9m) and with this shallow underwater landscape, the sunlight penetrates nicely illuminating marine life like peacock flounders disguising themselves on the sandy bottom and yellowtail snappers drifting around the colorful fan corals. 

What to know: The visibility at most dive sites in Turks and Caicos is extremely clear year-round and in January through March you have the best chance at spotting rays, dolphins and migrating humpback whales.

Make it happen: Stay at the Club Med Turkoise and take a PADI course there.

8. Superman’s Flight, St Lucia

What to expect: Drift diving – where you ride the underwater current while taking in the sights around you – is a thrilling experience where you barely have to kick or move your body as you glide along. Superman’s Flight in St Lucia was named after the cliff above the dive site where a scene from Superman II (1980) was filmed. The quick current that flows along the sloping wall allows you to feel like a superhero while taking in parrotfish, turtles, sponges and colorful soft corals as you drift past. 

What to know: If you have down time, one of the most popular experiences in St Lucia is taking a mud bath at the drive-in Sulphur Springs at the Soufrier Volcano of which the mud is said to detoxify the body. You can dive in the morning and have time to visit the mud bath in the early evening.

Make it happen: The best place for divers to stay in St Lucia is at the all-inclusive Sandals Grande St Lucian. All equipment is available at the onsite dive shop and dives are included as part of your stay.

The 8 best day trips from Las Vegas

What happens in Vegas stays in Vegas, so they say, but there’s no need to stay inside the city limits on a trip to the casino city. Beyond the crowds and bright lights of Las Vegas lies the uplifting emptiness of the Mojave Desert – the gateway to some of Nevada’s most dynamic landscapes.

People who enjoy wild and lonely places will love driving the scenic and remote back roads that radiate out from Las Vegas, following routes made famous by rock-and-roll singers and Hunter S Thompson. Few cities in America will put you within day-tripping range of so many iconic American sights.

So enjoy your fill of the roulette tables, bars and restaurants downtown, then hop in the car to experience the best of Nevada and beyond on these thrilling day trips from Las Vegas.

Four people riding mules on a steep path in the Grand Canyon.
A half-day of driving will deliver you to the scenic rim of the Grand Canyon. Shutterstock

1. Grand Canyon

Travel Time: 4 hours 30 minutes

No matter how much you read about the Grand Canyon or how many photographs you’ve seen of its plunging depths, nothing really prepares you for seeing America’s most famous natural wonder in the flesh. It’s so startlingly familiar and iconic you can’t take your eyes off it.

The canyon’s immense size, the sheer intensity of the light and shadows at sunrise or sunset and the tremendous natural forces that caused it to come into existence make this a place to explore slowly. Don’t rush the experience by trying to squeeze everything into a single day. You can reach the South Rim of the Grand Canyon in less than five hours, so stay a couple of days and immerse yourself in its grandeur.

How to get to the Grand Canyon: If you really can only spend a day, you’ll need an early start to make it back the same night. If possible, spread the trip over several days to see the canyon from multiple angles.

For a day trip from Vegas, the closest section of the canyon is Grand Canyon West, with its famous Skywalk, administered by the Hualapai nation. It’s a 2½-hour drive via US Highway 93, and a shuttle bus will ferry you to the viewpoints from the car park.

Allow 4½ hours to reach the South Rim from Las Vegas, following sections of US Highway 93, Route 66 and Arizona State Route 64. There are places to stay both inside and outside Grand Canyon National Park.

A woman cycling on a paved road through a desert landscape in Nevada.
The Red Rock Canyon Conservation Area is a popular recreation spot for Las Vegas locals. Joshua Resnick/Shutterstock

2. Red Rock Canyon

Travel Time: 20–30 minutes

The dramatic vistas of Red Rock Canyon Conservation Area are revered by Las Vegas locals and adored by visitors from around the world. Thurst upwards by extreme tectonic forces, the 3000ft-high red sandstone escarpment that rises from the valley floor was once a section of ancient seabed some 65 million years ago.

A scenic 13-mile drive from Las Vegas serves up mesmerizing views of the canyon’s most striking features, with numerous hiking trails and rock-climbing areas radiating out from roadside parking areas. For more information on the legendary climbs here, check out the resources on the Mountain Project website.

How to get to Red Rock Canyon: The canyon is about 13 miles from the central Strip along Nevada State Route 159 – a 20-minute drive. The conservation area begins about three miles from the Vegas suburb of Summerlin.

Colourful rock formations and a road in Valley of Fire State Park in Nevada.
The desert comes alive with color at Valley of Fire State Park. Getty Images

3. Valley of Fire State Park

Travel Time: 1 hour

Dedicated in 1935, Valley of Fire State Park was Nevada’s first state park, and its psychedelic landscape of surreally striped rocks was carved by wind and water over thousands of years. Make the visitor center your first port of call to find out how best to tackle this masterpiece of southwest desert scenery. Within the park boundaries are 40,000 acres of red Aztec sandstone, petrified trees and ancient Native American petroglyphs at Atlatl Rock, accessible via hiking and driving trails, but don’t undertake any hike without plenty of water.

Must-see spots within the valley include the dramatic natural landscapes of White Domes, Rainbow Vista, Fire Canyon and Silica Dome – each as magnificent as it sounds. To learn more about the unique geological features of the park, the visitor center sells guidebooks and maps and takes reservations for guided hikes and ranger-led stargazing expeditions. If you’re there for more than a day, try your luck at securing one of the 72 first-come, first-served primitive campsites.

How to get to Valley of Fire State Park: The Valley of Fire State Park visitor center is about 50 miles northeast of Downtown Las Vegas, signposted off Interstate 15. Drive time is under one hour.

Boats on Lake Mead in Nevada, America's largest reservoir.
America’s largest reservoir is just a short drive from Las Vegas. Shutterstock

4. Lake Mead

Travel Time: 45 minutes

Created when a whole valley system was flooded by the Hoover Dam in 1936, the Lake Mead National Recreation Area is a popular boating, swimming and camping destination for Vegas residents. For tourists, a trip here is often tied together with a visit to the nearby Hoover Dam.

The lake lies within a protected area spanning a broad sweep of the unbearably dry Mojave Desert, stretching for 110 miles toward the Grand Canyon. Also here is 67-mile-long Lake Mohave, which runs along the Arizona border, alongside endless miles of spectacular desert scenery to explore on driving routes and a handful of hiking trails.

While most visitors come to Lake Mead to enjoy the water, don’t overlook the hiking here. At Grapevine Canyon near Lake Mohave, a quarter-mile jaunt takes you to a panel of petroglyphs dating back as far as the 11th century CE, and you can boulder-hop further up the gorge, which encloses a ribbon-like stream trickling down from a spring.

Longer routes include a 3.7-mile hike through five tunnels following the former railway line that once linked the site of the Lake Mead Visitor Center to the Hoover Dam. The most challenging hike in the park is a three-mile, 800ft descent to a series of hot springs set in a slot canyon off Black Canyon. The area can get extremely hot in summer and hiking is not recommended from May to September.

How to get to Lake Mead: The most visited northern section of Lake Mead is less than an hour’s drive from Las Vegas along Lake Mead Blvd, while the southern shores can be reached via US Highway 93.

A view of the concrete supports of the Hoover Dam in Nevada.
Tourists often visit the Hoover Dam and Lake Mead together on a single day trip from Vegas. Shutterstock

5. Hoover Dam

Travel Time: 1 hour

Day-trippers often visit Hoover Dam and Lake Mead together on the same trip, which makes sense as the lake was created during the construction of the dam in the 1930s. At the height of the Depression, thousands of men and their families migrated here and worked in excruciatingly hot conditions, dangling hundreds of feet above Black Canyon to build this massive 726ft-high arch-gravity dam, completed ahead of schedule and under budget in 1936.

It came at a cost. Ninety-six workers lost their lives building this iconic art deco structure, which has come to define this stark but eye-catching section of the desert. Tours of the dam begin at the Hoover Dam Parking Garage & Visitor Center, and tickets can be booked ahead online.

How to get to Hoover Dam: The Hoover Dam visitor center is a one-hour drive from central Las Vegas along US Highway 93 and Nevada State Route 172. The dam is open from 9am to 5pm, but the last tour of the day leaves at 3:45pm.

A photo of the Spring Mountains sign in Nevada.
The scenic Spring Mountains run along the west side of Las Vegas and down to the Californian border. Getty Images

6. Spring Mountains

Travel Time: 1 hour 20 minutes

To the west of Las Vegas, the limestone cliffs and forested peaks of the Spring Mountains rise dramatically above the Mojave Desert. This mountainous area is a playground for hiking, mountain biking, camping,  horseback riding, rock climbing and other outdoor activities.

Start your explorations in the Spring Mountains National Recreation Area section of Humboldt-Toiyabe National Forest, where a modern, state-of-the-art interpretive center features educational dioramas, exhibits and artworks. Park rangers are on hand to steer you toward your perfect forest experience.

How to get to the Spring Mountains: The drive from Vegas takes around one hour and 20 minutes, following US Hwy 95 then Nevada State Route 157.

A car driving down a road through the desert landscape of Death Valley.
Death Valley is not the barren, lifeless landscape that its name suggests. Mark Read/Lonely Planet

7. Death Valley

Travel Time: 2 hours

The name Death Valley evokes visions of somewhere harsh, hot and hellish – a punishing, barren and lifeless place of Old Testament severity. But closer inspection reveals nature putting on a truly spectacular show. Around this low-lying basin, you’ll find singing sand dunes, water-sculpted canyons, extinct volcanic craters, palm-shaded oases, stark mountains rising to 11,000ft and boulders that seemingly move of their own volition across the desert floor.

There’s also plenty of endemic wildlife, including jackrabbits, bighorn sheep and mountain lions. Start exploring from Dante’s View, where on very clear days, you can simultaneously see the highest point (14,505ft Mt Whitney) and the lowest point (Badwater, at 282ft below sea level) in the contiguous USA.

How to get to Death Valley: The drive to Death Valley from Las Vegas takes a little over two hours, following Interstate 95 and Nevada State Route 373.

Ridge walk in beautiful scenery in Zion National Park along the Angel's Landing trail.
Zion National Park has hikes for all levels of ability. Simon Dannhauer/Shutterstock

8. Zion National Park

Travel Time: 2 hours 30 minutes

Get ready for an overdose of awesome. The soaring red-and-white cliffs of Zion Canyon – one of southern Utah’s most dramatic natural wonders – rise high above the Virgin River. Hiking downriver through the tight gorge known as the Narrows or gazing down from the rocky top of Angels Landing after a 1500ft ascent is simply amazing.

That’s just the beginning. For all its awe-inspiring majesty, the park also shields more delicate beauty – rocks that ‘weep’ water, delicate grottoes, hanging gardens and mesa-top meadows of wildflowers. It’s close enough to visit on a day trip from Vegas, but it’s more rewarding to explore slowly, hiking the trails and staying overnight at one of the three park campgrounds or in nearby lodges and B&Bs.

How to get to Zion National Park: The drive from Vegas to Zion National Park takes around 2½ hours, mostly following Interstate 15. If you arrive via the park’s South Entrance, you should expect traffic jams of 30 minutes or more just to pass the entry kiosk. Arrive well before 8am to avoid the worst of the traffic and increase your odds of getting a coveted parking spot.

Your guide to hiking the Tour du Mont Blanc

If you’ve got one European long-distance hike on your bucket list, it’s probably the Tour du Mont Blanc. It was on mine, too.

Views over sparkling glaciers, Alpine prairies and lots (and lots!) of cheese await anyone who embarks on this border-crossing trek. Circling the largest peak in the Alps, Mont Blanc, the trail covers 170km (105 miles), climbs more than 10,000m (32,800ft) in cumulative altitude, and weaves through three Alpine countries: France, Italy and Switzerland. 

Every dream feels far away – until we start to break down what we need to do to achieve it. Here’s what it takes to hike or run the Tour du Mont Blanc.

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Each refuge (set of mountain huts) along the Tour du Mont Blanc has its own vibe © Quentin Boehm

How I prepared for hiking the Tour du Mont Blanc 

Don’t laugh at the folks who’ve sawed off the handle of their toothbrush to save on weight. Many of the climbs along the Tour du Mont Blanc are arduous, and every gram really does count. 

My first question as I prepared my bag was, Where would I sleep? Opting for camping would make the trek feel really wild, let me spend more time in nature and give a bit more flexibility about where and when I’d arrive each night. On the flip side, this would mean my home would be on my back (like a turtle), and heavy enough to reduce my walking speed significantly.

The other option was to sleep in refuges, or mountain huts. Refuges can range from rows of bunk beds to rooms that are almost luxurious – yet what they all offer in common is a dry place, sheltered from the elements. Plus (with rare exceptions), the dinners are delicious. Staying in refuges means no need to pack any camping or cooking gear, freeing up a lot of room in your backpack. 

Each refuge has its own culture and way of working, says Céline Mila, the gardienne (caretaker) of Refuge des Prés in the Contamines Valley. “Usually that means taking off your shoes before entering, and taking your trash away with you. The best way to get oriented at the refuge is by coming to see us when you arrive – it’s our job to share the mountain culture with you.”

For my Tour du Mont Blanc, I decided to stay in refuges the whole way.

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Even in June, you can expect snow along the Tour du Mont Blanc © Quentin Boehm

What is the best time to do the Tour du Mont Blanc?

To beat the crowds, I decided to run the tour in mid-June. Even at the onset of summer, there was still quite a bit of snow above 1800m (5900ft), and many hikers brought along small snow chains to keep from slipping. I loved the extra challenge of the snow and the cooler daytime temperatures. July and August are the busiest months for the route, when the trail can sometimes feel like a highway. By September, things slow down again – but the huts also start to close up for the winter. While weather in the mountains can vary each year, usually July and August have the highest number of stable, rain-free days.

How long does the Tour du Mont Blanc take? And what do you eat along the route?

Hikers typically complete the loop in between seven and 10 days, and the fastest trail runners complete the journey in a staggering 20 hours. Regular trail runners tend to take things a bit slower, between three and four days. 

Since I was running the loop in four days, I packed only the barest essentials so as not to weigh myself down: a pair of leggings and a long-sleeve shirt to sleep in, a thin fleece for the mornings, a light raincoat, a pair of light gloves, a change of socks, my toothbrush, sunscreen, sunglasses and a headlamp. Plus, I wanted to eat as much local food as possible: crozets (cheesy pasta) in France, pizza in Italy and croûtes (a cheesy bread melt) in Switzerland.

Dinners were included in my demi-pension, or half-board. For lunch, I usually ordered the refuge’s picnic to eat along the way. While they’re nothing fancy, the sandwiches or even just bread, smoked meat and cheese always hit the spot.

Alix Noblat, an ultra-trail runner and specialist in nutrition in endurance sports, once told me to eat every half hour – before my stomach starts rumbling. So I always keep a snack on me, like protein bars or Snickers. Anything that can give me an energy boost is always in my pack.

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Along the trail, you’ll start to measure your distance in cols, or mountain passes © Quentin Boehm

The highs and lows of the Tour du Mont Blanc

After a few days on the trail, your sense of time and distance changes. Hikers will no longer measure their day by kilometers or hours traveled – but rather by the cols, or mountain passes, that they’ve reached. The most famous ones are:

  • The Col du Bonhomme, which connects the lush Contamines Nature Reserve with the Alpine pastures of the Beaufortaine.

  • The Col de la Seigne, at the border between France and Italy, with a spectacular view of Mont Blanc, Aiguille du Peuteurey, Dent du Géan and the treacherous Grandes Jorasses.

  • The Col Grand Ferret, at the end of the remote Val Ferret, which brings a long, steep climb – and a descent on the other (Swiss) side that’s rolling and blissful.

  • The Col de la Balme, overlooking Chamonix valley, which brings hikers back into France for the final few legs before the finish.

And don’t forget the valleys. The TBM passes through winter sports hubs like Chamonix and Courmayeur, as well as through smaller Alpine valleys. A standout valley is the Val Ferret: the trail runs high above the lush green pastures on the valley floor, giving a splendid view of the mineral rock faces of the range on the other side. Plus, the Rifugio Walter Bonatti’s cappuccinos are the best you’ll find anywhere above 2000m (6500ft).

Do you need to be in great shape to hike the Tour du Mont Blanc?

You should physically prepare for the hike, yes. Getting in shape for the TMB is a question of cardio training and foot preparation. Hikers should be fit enough to cover their desired distance each day, of course. But don’t forget to prepare your feet to avoid blisters: break in hiking shoes before the first day of the hike, and bring along anti-chafing cream if you’re worried you might have rubs.

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If you want to stay in refuges along the trail, be sure to reserve ahead © Quentin Boehm

How do I get to the area to start the hike?

Typically, the route begins and ends in Les Houches (Haute-Savoie) in the French Alps and follows a counterclockwise loop around the mountain range. However, you can also start from other towns on the TMB, such as Chamonix (Plan Praz), Courmayeur in Aosta Valley (Italy) and Champex Lac. Although most hikers will go counterclockwise, the clockwise direction can also be done. This way, you’re getting a much more tranquil route.

Les Houches is easily reached from anywhere in France using the train and Mont Blanc tramway connection. The latter is among the most scenic rail journeys in the world, so definitely worth a ride. You can also use the tram to access many mountain trails around Mont Blanc. Some peaks along the Tour du Mont Blanc are connected by cable cars so it shouldn’t always be an arduous hike. 

How can I hike the Tour du Mont Blanc safely?

Mountain trekking is always about preparation. When it comes to the Tour de Mont Blanc, you must carefully study your way and know the ins and outs of the route. We’re talking about some of the highest peaks in Europe here, so the more you know, the better. And the more honest you are about your capabilities, the more you’ll enjoy the trek. Can you walk up to 8 hours a day with constant ascents? Does hiking for more than a week sound like a good plan at this moment in your life?

The weather conditions should also be considered. It’s one thing going through idyllic Mont Blanc Massif scenery when the sun is pleasantly shining. It’s a different kind of challenge when there’s a thunderstorm or a snowfall. With long-day hiking treks like TMB, good weather plays a vital role. It’s best to know exactly what to expect and be ready to react when emergencies happen. Have a look at the official safety information and study the mountain hazards that can happen during your time in the wild. 

Equipment is another essential part of the Tour du Mont Blanc preparation. Your safety also depends on the things you take with you. GPS and detailed maps of the route you choose are obligatory. Check out the guide on the best trekking gear for a complete picture of items to take with you on TMB. And don’t underestimate the importance of comfortable, durable and waterproof footwear.

Why is the mountain called Mont Blanc?

Mont Blanc translates as “white mountain” in French and comes from the snow cap that covers the peak and the glaciers that stretch from its dome. Mont Blanc was first proclaimed the continent’s highest mountain at the beginning of the 18th century. The first documented climb occurred in 1786 when Michel-Gabriel Paccard and Jacques Balmat reached the summit of Mont Blanc starting from Chamonix.

What wildlife will I see on the trip?

One of the magical things about long-distance mountain trekking is the nature you see along the way. Apart from sublime panoramas, Tour du Mont Blanc provides a window into the fauna of the western side of the Alps. 

Encountering ibex is almost a guarantee during the trail. These are mountain goats with long horns that usually feed close to the hiking routes and on alpine meadows. Another horned animal you may see is the chamois. They are smaller than ibex, and they love going up and down rocky slopes. The cutest creature you can meet on TMB is the marmot. These chubby ground squirrels come out during the warmer months and hang out at higher elevations. 

Remember to keep a safe distance from all animals you see on the trail. The wilderness is their home, and when provoked, they can be dangerous and cause harm. 

Ready to make it happen?

This is a trek you should book early – at least two months out – to find accommodation at the refuges. Yet it can be planned at the last minute for those who prefer camping. Autour du Mont Blanc is an easy-to-use website that helps plan daily stages. You can also reserve huts here. 

The views…the food…the marmots! The Tour du Mont Blanc delivers at every step.

The cutest animals in Australia and where to find them

Undoubtedly one of Australia’s biggest draws is its wildlife, which you’re almost guaranteed to see amidst the nation’s incredible landscapes (or in an animal sanctuary if you’re short on time). And despite the horror stories you may have heard, it’s not all deadly spiders, sharks and snakes (although you may see all three if you stay long enough). The roll call of unique animals – from super cute mammals to colorful birds and fish plus lizards and geckos you won’t see anywhere else – is long.

Australia offers many different wildlife-spotting experiences, depending on where you visit. However, some of even its most famous species are critically endangered, which means sightings are rare and conservation efforts are vital.

We’ve created the ultimate beginner’s guide that gives you the best chance of getting up close (but not so close that you put these wild creatures at risk) with Australia’s unique native animals.

Where are the best places for wildlife watching in Australia?

Your best chance of spying some Australian fauna will be in one of the 500+ national parks scattered across the country.

Some national parks are better set up for overseas visitors, with accommodation nearby and guides available for a wildlife-spotting tour. In the north, head to The Daintree (Queensland), Kakadu National Park (Northern Territory) or Cape Range National Park (Western Australia). In the southern states, put the Blue Mountains (New South Wales), Grampians (Gariwerd) National Park in Victoria and Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park in Tasmania on your must-visit list.

Many rural accommodations in Australia are embedded in nature, which means you may have emus, echidnas or wallabies wandering past your room.

But even a city-based trip Down Under offers opportunities for close-up wildlife encounters. Kangaroos inhabit the capital city of Canberra, koalas live in the Adelaide Hills, and the one-of-a-kind quokka is found on Wadjemup/Rottnest Island near Perth – and where do we begin with the birdlife in Sydney? If you want to see unique animals, you’ve come to the right place.

Wild koala in climbing up a tree in Adelaide Hills, South Australia
If you spy a koala in the wild, it’s important to keep quiet to avoid scaring them. Getty Images

Where are the best places in Australia to see koalas, kangaroos and other iconic species?

Koalas

Koalas need no introduction. The poster child for “super cute Australian animals,” koalas spend around 20 hours a day fast asleep. If you’re going to see a koala on the move, clumsily crabbing along the ground from one tree to the next, it’s most likely at night. Otherwise, they’re usually perched in the crook of a tree munching on eucalyptus leaves alone or with a joey clinging on. You can spot these adorable tufty-eared marsupials in forests close to the coast in southeastern Australia. However, human encroachment has put koalas on the endangered list in NSW, the Australian Capital Territory and Queensland.

Where to find them: Stands of trees along the Great Ocean Road (Victoria), on Magnetic Island and Stradbroke Island/Minjerribah (Queensland), and on Kangaroo Island (South Australia) are known by locals to house koalas – you’ll have to ask around. Some wildlife parks allow visitors to take a photo with a koala, but cuddling one is a controversial practice that’s illegal in most states because it causes stress to the animals.

Tips for spotting them: Koalas are noise-sensitive – a quiet approach through the forest is required. If you look carefully at higher branches (binoculars may help), you may spot one attached to a tree limb. You’ll find it easier to spot one if they’re munching or moving around so try early in the morning or at dusk when it’s cooler.

A black-footed rock wallaby at Yardie Creek, Western Australia
The black-footed rock wallaby is perfectly camouflaged for its Yardie Creek Gorge home. Samantha Haebich/Getty Images

Kangaroos and wallabies

First, how do you know which is which? Both kangaroos and wallabies are marsupials that belong to a small group of animals called macropods (yes, that’s Latin for “big feet”). Kangaroos are larger; they’re usually one color; they use their tails like a fifth foot (which also means they jump further); and are often bounding through open grasslands. Wallabies, on the other hand, are smaller (25kg compared to a 90kg kangaroo) and their color can vary, like the black-footed rock wallaby, which helps them camouflage in forests or on rocky escarpments where they typically live.

Where to find them: Kangaroos live in many parts of Australia, they’re even been spotted on suburban streets and golf courses at dusk. One of the most iconic places to see kangaroos is on the white-sand beaches of Lucky Bay in Cape Le Grand National Park (Western Australia). Wallabies can be shier and they stick to smaller groups, but different species are found in national parks such as Narawntapu National Park (Tasmania) and Cape Hillsborough National Park (Queensland).

Tips for spotting them: Dawn and dusk are the best times to see kangaroos and wallabies. Don’t make any sudden moves, as they spook easily. And if you do get close, definitely don’t feed them.

A wombat in the sun at Lesueur Point in Tasmania
Wombats are one of the most beloved animals in Australia. Posnov/Getty Images

Wombats

Perhaps not as well known outside Australia, wombats are beloved by locals. They feature in Aboriginal Dreaming stories, as well as classic Australian children’s literature. The word “wombat” is believed to come from the Dharug language of the Aboriginal people, the Traditional Custodians of the Sydney area (as does koala and wallaby). These gentle furry marsupials are around as big as a medium-sized dog – but with smaller legs and a stout body – and they hide out in burrows by day, foraging for food by night. A classic piece of pub quiz trivia is the fact wombat poo is cube-shaped. If you see some, you know one is close.

Where to find them: The best places to spot wombats include the Bay of Fires, Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park, and Flinders or Maria islands (Tasmania); Wilsons Promontory National Park (Victoria) and the Blue Mountains (NSW). Unfortunately, the northern hairy-nosed wombat is critically endangered – only a small population of around 300 remains in a protected area of Queensland.

Tips for spotting them: Dawn and dusk are your best times to spot wombats, as they hibernate during the heat of the day, but if you’re camping at a national park you may see (or hear) them out overnight.

A Tasmanian Echidna walking in a wooded area.
Echidnas use their spiky coat as protection when feeling threatened. Taylor Wilson Smith/Shutterstock

Echidnas

You’ll bump into these short-beaked spiny creatures in national parks but even in bushland areas close to the city. Those sharp-looking spines, which protect echidnas from predators like birds of prey and larger mammals, are actually hairs with extra keratin. When frightened, an echidna will tuck its snout and legs under and curl into a spiky ball. Even though they look similar, echidnas have more in common with the platypus (another egg-laying mammal in Australia, read on!) than the common hedgehog. And here’s another cute fact: a baby echidna is called a “puggle”.

Where to find them: You’ve got a good chance of seeing an echidna in southern states like Victoria, NSW, South Australia, ACT, Tasmania and southwest WA, where there’s plenty of forests, shrubland and insects for them to live on.

Tips for spotting them: In summer echidnas are out foraging around dawn and dusk, but in cooler seasons you may spot one in the day. They’re shy, slow-moving creatures so keep still if one waddles into your path – it will change course if it hears you. Small holes in the ground are often a sign an echidna has been foraging for ants and termites nearby.

Crocodiles

Two types of crocodiles live in tropical Australia: saltwater and freshwater crocs. “Salties,” as Australians call them, are found in estuaries and rivers by the coast as well as in the sea. Male saltwater crocodiles can grow to 6-7 meters (20ft to 23ft) although most are closer to 4 meters (13ft). “Freshies” are smaller (2m/6.5ft) and less aggressive, but if they’re feeling threatened, their bite is dangerous.

Crocodiles were hunted in Australia until the 1970s when they became a protected species. A direct encounter with a crocodile will likely kill you, so follow all instructions from your guide. Never – ever – enter a body of water in northern Australia unless you are absolutely sure it is crocodile-free, and read up on staying safe in crocodile regions.

Where to find them: Crocodiles live in the northern parts of Australia. To see saltwater crocodiles in the wild head to Adelaide River and Kakadu National Park (Northern Territory) and the Daintree River (Queensland). Freshwater crocodiles can be seen at Nitmiluk (Katherine Gorge) and Litchfield national parks (Northern Territory), plus Lake Argyle and Bandilngan (Windjana Gorge) National Park in Western Australia.

Tips for spotting them: The dry season (May to October) is the best time to see crocs as they’ll be concentrated near water sources or basking in the sun on a river bank. They can be hard to spot in water as they usually float with only their eyes and snout breaching the surface. Look for slide marks on river banks or a distinctive V-shaped wake in water.

Australia Wild Emu found in national park
Emus can move at high speed in open spaces when searching for food. colacat/Shutterstock

Emus

These large flightless birds (second only to the ostrich) live in various spots across Australia except in Tasmania. They are often running along wide open plains in search of food and water, and avoiding predators (they can reach speeds of 50kph/30mph). For many Aboriginal Australians, the emu has an important role in mythologies and is a key creator spirit. Look up and you will see the Emu in the Sky, a constellation made of the dark areas of the Milky Way.

Where to find them: You’ll find emus on grassy plains in Kosciuszko National Park (NSW), on open savanna in Murray Sunset National Park (Victoria) and in many outback regions. As they are not aggressive animals, they also often inhabit city-based wildlife parks.

Tips for spotting them: Emus can be seen in groups if there’s a water source nearby, but you may spot one on its own. In areas where there are lots of tourists they may have been hand-fed which can make them more aggressive, particularly about getting food – always keep your distance. As a child, this animal lover was nipped by one at Healesville Sanctuary (which was more of a shock than anything else).

Tasmanian Devils

You know the Looney Tunes cartoon character Taz, the Tasmanian Devil? Well, these cute carnivorous marsupials are also endangered, due to the fatal and transmissible Devil Facial Tumor Disease (DFTD) that has killed 80% of the population. A disease-free colony has been established on Maria Island (off the Tasmanian mainland) and scientists have been testing a vaccine inspired by the way the SARS-CoV-2 vaccine works.

Where to find them: Tasmanian Devils have been spotted at Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park, Narawntapu National Park and Mount William National Park, but you’re more likely to see one in a wildlife park in a special nocturnal exhibit where you will also learn more about Tasmania’s conservation efforts.

Tips for spotting them: Tasmanian Devils are nocturnal scavengers (they will munch through carrion from the side of a road, with a bite as strong as a hyena) so be careful driving after dark. Going on a guided nighttime tour will increase your chances of seeing one in the wild.

A platypus swimming in the Broken river at the Eungella National Park, Australia
Queensland’s Eungella National Park is the best place to spot platypuses, but you need to be quiet and patient. Manuel ROMARIS/Getty Images

Platypus

Their reputation for the unexpected precedes them. In the 19th century, naturalists back in England thought a platypus specimen must be a hoax with its duck-like bill, otter-like body, beaver-like tail, webbed feet, sharp claws and venomous spurs. This egg-laying mammal is unique to Australia, and while seeing one in the wild will take patience and luck, they are real. Apart from admiring their representation on Australia’s 20c coin, many zoos and wildlife parks have nocturnal platypus enclosures where you can view them burrowing and swimming underwater.

Where to find them: The Atherton Tablelands is the most iconic spot for platypus sightings – ask at a local tourist office for recommended spots. In Eungella National Park, special viewing platforms have been integrated into the forest around Broken River, one of this elusive monotreme’s favorite habitats.

Tips for spotting them: Patience is the key – set yourself up quietly and comfortably and look for telltale trails of bubbles on the water’s surface. Chances are the bubbles will be followed by a surfacing platypus. Don’t startle them – platypuses are notoriously shy and will dive back underwater in the twinkling of an eye and take refuge in a riverside burrow if they sense danger.

The quokka is one of Australia's most charming, quirky inhabitants
Best spotted on Rottnest Island, the quokka is one of Australia’s most charming, quirky inhabitants. Damian Lugowski/Getty Images

Quokkas

These marsupials are so photogenic that the “quokka selfie” became an online trend – until animal welfare experts spoke up. These small wallaby-like marsupials may look like they’re happy but that smile is really a quirk of the quokka’s facial structure, not permission to put a camera in their face. Quokkas are non-aggressive – docile even – which adds to the anthropomorphizing by humans. They also climb trees, hop like rabbits and sleep in the daytime. Quokkas are listed as “vulnerable” due to habitat loss as well as the arrival of predators (humans shamefully were on that list).

Where to find them: Quokkas are found on Wadjemup/Rottnest Island in Western Australia, a 30-minute ferry journey from Fremantle south of Perth.

Tips for spotting them: Quokkas are nocturnal, although in the winter months, they can be active during daylight hours. Get away from other tourists by foot or bike to increase your opportunity for a chance encounter, or book a guided walking tour. The Rottnest Voluntary Guides Association runs a “Meet the Quokkas” walking tour daily, where visitors are asked to observe from a respectful distance.

For visitors short on time, consider visiting a wildlife sanctuary

Sightings are never guaranteed when you’re dealing with wildlife, so if your trip Down Under won’t be complete without a koala, there are myriad wildlife reserves and zoos in Australia where native (and non-native) animals are in residence.

Yes, there’s a strong animal welfare case for never visiting animals in captivity, but many in Australia do adhere to strict animal welfare protocols and contribute to education and conservation efforts (do your research and you can be the judge).