home. The tour is both informative and inspiring, offering a glimpse into the park’s geological wonders.
Hike to the peak
After exploring the caverns, take a hike to Wheeler Peak, one of the park’s main highlights. The Peak’s lofty heights provide one of the most breathtaking panoramic scenes in the region. The trail can be challenging but is rewarding with its dramatic vistas and the occasional wildlife sighting along the way. Ensure you’re prepared with adequate water and hiking gear.
Stargazing
Great Basin National Park is also famous for having some of the darkest skies in the U.S., making it a premier location for stargazing. As night falls, look up to witness a vast array of stars and, perhaps, catch a glimpse of the Milky Way. Bring along a telescope or join an astronomy program offered by the park to enhance your celestial experience.
Rest your head
Conclude your adventurous day by returning to Ely for accommodation. Whether you prefer the comfort of a familiar chain like Motel 6 or seek the historical charm of the Hotel Nevada, you’ll find a variety of places to unwind and refresh for the night.
home.
Embark on a trek (or a pair)
Once you finish exploring the caves, get back into your vehicle and ascend the curvy hill road – an experience on its own – heading toward Wheeler Peak. I left my car in the parking lot long before reaching the peak and began my journey on foot. Trailheads here guide you to various equally breathtaking wonders like the bristlecone pine groves and Nevada’s sole glacier. I opted for the Alpine Lakes Loop, a fairly level path leading to the shimmering Lakes Teresa and Stella. Along the way, I navigated through sparse snow, took countless photos of Wheeler Peak towering above, and relished the refreshing air. Consider taking one path in the morning, heading back to Lehman Caves for a quick bite at the visitors center, and then selecting a different trail for the afternoon. A piece of advice: Although some trails are marked “easy,” the park’s altitude introduces an added challenge. Carry ample water, dress in layers, and manage your pace.
Day 3: Exploring Ely and surroundings
Relish some Nevada nostalgia
Copper mining along with a prime spot on Nevada’s Pony Express path — these are what shaped Ely. While the town serves as an excellent base to explore Great Basin National Park, it also offers easy access to other quirky, slightly odd attractions perfect for adding to a national park visit.
Indulge in malted treats
Take a seat on a vintage red-and-chrome stool at the Economy Drug soda fountain, operational since 1946. Noteworthy items on the menu include excellent sandwiches and retro sodas, alongside orders for malts, milkshakes, and ice cream. Naturally, if you’re short on toothpaste or sunscreen, you can find it here as well. True to its name, Economy Drug remains a functioning pharmacy.
Experience railway charm
It’s challenging to locate a more delightful place in Ely than its beautifully kept train station, part of the Nevada Northern Railway. This group not only maintains the station and its nearby structures but also conserves and operates vintage engines and train cars. Book a journey on one of them for desert stargazing, a fireworks view, geology lessons, or champagne sipping. Programs change with the season and focus on themes. The station itself is also available for tours.
Seek out treasure
Garnet Hill is a known “rockhounding” site, open to the public for geological treasure searches. Drive up the steep dirt path as far as you can, park, then hike around 20 minutes uphill to get to the optimal hunting areas. While the hill gets its name from the common dark red gemstones, you’re more apt to discover other marvels nearer the surface—mainly petrified wood pieces and fossils. I stumbled upon a trilobite fragment — a prehistoric marine creature that existed here over 250 million years ago — and was moved to tears by its wonder.
Witness remnants of a mining era
Near Rte 50, approximately 30 minutes from Ely, lies one of the most unusual, and oddly enchanting, spots around. The Ward Charcoal Ovens are a set of 30ft tall structures in expansive desert land, originally used for producing charcoal for silver smelting in the 1800s. Though flooding and fires destroyed the mining town by the 19th century’s end, the stone ovens persist. You can even step inside to appreciate their hollow, beehive-like architecture.
Day 4: Las Vegas
Return to Sin City
If your journey to Ely was via Rte 93, you may consider taking a different path, Rte 318, back to Vegas. It offers alternative mountain views and reduces travel time by around 30 minutes. On my final evening in Nevada, I indulged in a few straightforward Vegas delights — a spine-chilling museum and a flawless martini. I began at the Atomic Museum, which candidly explores the story of atomic energy and armaments. For over 40 years starting in the 1950s, the region north of Las Vegas served as America’s official site for nuclear trials. (In the 1950s, postcards depicted a Vegas showgirl adorned in a mushroom cloud ensemble.)
The installations delve deeply into tech and history, exploring the morality of nuclear warfare and the testing site’s own ethics. Later that day, I made my way to Delilah for a beverage — which I certainly needed. This multipurpose venue offers live big-band music, straightforward but satisfying cuisine (with chicken fingers being a top pick), and faultless cocktails, all in an ambiance reminiscent of a lavish Rat Pack-era Las Vegas. Here, you’ll be asked to stash your mobile device and simply relish the moment— and it’s so delightful, you won’t mind.
Laura traveled to Nevada courtesy of Travel Nevada. Lonely Planet does not accept free travel in exchange for positive coverage.
Related:
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Hiking Great Basin National Park
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6 of Nevada’s finest road journeys
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8 top road excursions from Las Vegas
Connemara ponies, valued for their smartness, adaptability, and calm demeanor, are a prized breed originating from the rugged terrain of the Connemara area © Robert Ormerod for Lonely Planet
