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Seven reasons to visit Milan

Before Expo 2015 Milan had long been considered the forgotten sibling to more resplendent Venice, Florence and Rome. While they stole the limelight with their artistic heritage and haunting ruins, Milan was considered ‘grey’ and even worse ‘industrial’. Now with a changing urban landscape that includes shiny skyscrapers and lush green spaces, the tide is turning for this modern, elegant city.

A new urban landscape of water and glass in Gae Aulenti square
Milan is a city flourishing with new urban landscapes © Danyskar / Lonely Planet

Duomo’s historic beauty

There’s no missing this pristine vision in pink-veined marble, dripping with statues, gargoyles and dazzling spires (135 to be exact). Not only is it Milan’s crowning glory that sits in the city’s physical and cultural heart – it also has a story to tell. The Duomo’s construction required thousands of workers, a new canal system to be built to transport the marble from the quarries of Candoglia, and took nearly six long centuries to build. In fact, to say in Milanese ‘longh cume la fabrica del domm’, which roughly means ‘as long as it took to build the Duomo’, refers to a task that never seems to end. If you’re interested in the history and legacy of this fascinating landmark, the Museo del Duomo has rooms of sculptures, stained glass and various materials connected with its construction.

The architectural makeover

This is a city that’s slowly embracing modernisation, so it’s not all about the iconic Duomo when it comes to standout architecture. Since 2011 the soaring UniCredit skyscraper (Italy’s tallest), designed by Argentinian star architect César Pelli, has been stealing some of the attention. And it hasn’t stopped there. Nearby Bosco Verticale, the ground-breaking residential high-rise overflowing with trees and greenery, has everyone talking about it as a model for future cities. The Darsena (Milan’s dock area) has also been reflooded and revamped; no longer muddy and wildly overgrown, it’s sporting a scenic pedestrian walkway, curated gardens and a covered market. The Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II has a new shine to it, with a much-needed clean up sponsored by fashion powerhouses Prada and Versace. Currently in progress, the ambitious CityLife project will bestow upon Milan three glittering skyscrapers and an enormous shopping district, along with the city’s second biggest park.

Modern art and onlookers at Fuorisalone design festival
Check out the hottest design trends at Fuorisalone design festival © Stephanie Ong / Lonely Planet

A cutting-edge design festival

The city has long been synonymous with design and Fuorisalone is Milan’s much lauded week-long design festival. While it occurs contemporaneously with the industry event Salone del Mobile, it’s an entirely different affair – and not only for die-hard design enthusiasts. Pop-ups, wildly creative temporary events, installations by big-name brands and unknown designers, as well as parties in secret locations, are just some of the appeal. In locations all over the city, it’s the time when Milan brings its creative and playful side to the fore.

Da Vinci’s infinite genius

The quintessential Renaissance man was born in Florence but spent 17 years in Milan, leaving his distinctive and indelible mark on the city – he even had a hand in modernising the canal system. You can admire various artworks, such as a fresco of entwined mulberry branches in the Sala delle Asse of Castello Sforzesco, but of course, what everyone wants to see is the dramatic Last Supper, still magnificent despite deterioration attributed to time and the medium. Just down the road, the vineyard given to him by his patron the Duke of Milan, Ludovico Sforza, has been painstakingly recreated and offers visitors a sneak peek into his private life. For those wanting to delve deeper into his genius, the Codex Atlanticus at Biblioteca Ambrosiana holds his precious sketches and scribblings, while both the Museo Nazionale Scienza e Tecnologia Leonardo da Vinci and the temporary Leonardo3 exhibition bring his brilliant models to life.

Stylish shoppers stroll past Milan's Fendi boutique
There’s no shortage of designer boutiques © Stephanie Ong / Lonely Planet

The fashion-forward immersion

Milan is one of the fashion capitals of the world, famed for its fashion weeks and well-heeled citizens, while its beating heart is the aptly named Quadrilatero d’Oro (the ‘Golden Rectangle’). Formed by Via Monte Napoleone, Via Alessandro Manzoni, Via della Spiga and Corso Venezia, it has a dizzyingly high concentration of haute couture, with flagship stores from Prada, Gucci, Fendi and more, posing prettily side by side. This is the posh side of town and the streets ooze refinement and charm, that is if you manage to see past the crowd of sophisticated shoppers and gawping tourists.

World-class cuisine (and not just Italian)

Italy’s most cosmopolitan city has an exciting food scene that goes far beyond classic Italian and Milanese cuisine. The culinary scene is brimming with creativity and experimentation, both in terms of food and atmospheric settings. Tokuyoshi is a perfect example of the former. Created by Yoji Tokuyoshi, ex sous chef of world-renowned Osteria Francescana, his restaurant is a gastronomic journey between Japan and Italy, which offers up such surprises as an aubergine panna cotta. Contraste, by young rising star chef Matias Perdomo, offers a transformative eating experience in an artistic setting decorated with blue ‘clouds’ and red silicon chandeliers. While Carlo e Camilla in Segheria, by elite chef Carlo Cracco, presents modern Italian cuisine in a stark renovated sawmill that makes you feel like you’re dining in the middle of a dramatic theatre set.

A bartender behind the bar at at Milan's Botanical Club cocktail bar
See what’s shaking at Milan’s Botanical Club cocktail bar © Botanical Club

A stellar (and underrated) cocktail scene

Not many people seem to know about Milan’s illustrious bar scene. Nottingham Forest is a world-famous mixology bar, which warrants a place on any international best bar list. Dario Comini is the mad genius behind its wild concoctions, which might just come in a bathtub or a skull. The Botanical Club is also blazing its way through the ranks. Italy’s first small-batch gin distillery not only offers up its excellent house brand and an extensive list of quality-grade gins, it creates sublime cocktails that often feature an unusual touch, such as Tonka beans or a rich lavender syrup.

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10 romantic cities for couples to explore

Okay, okay, you caught us: Paris is on this list. How could it not be? It’s the Most Romantic City in the World. But the French capital isn’t the only fun city escape for couples on the planet.

There are plenty of lesser-known cities that can sweep your partner off their feet or whisper sweet nothings in your ear for nights you’ll never forget. So we asked Lonely Planet contributors for the best ones. They didn’t disappoint. Here are the 10 most fun city getaways for couples.

An older couple strolls through DC's Bloomingdale neighborhood
The lush, tree-lined sidewalks of DC’s Bloomingdale neighborhood © The Washington Post / Getty

1. Washington, DC, USA

Lonely Planet writer Barbara Noe Kennedy is a freelance writer focusing on destinations, art, culture, food and adventure around the world.

With all the soapboxing going on in the US capital, you might assume there’s not much time for romance. But Washington, DC is a genteel city of flowery parks, arched bridges, waterfront walks, and cozy restaurants, offering lovebirds plenty of options.

On sunny days, hop the dinghy to Hains Point for a waterside picnic. Watch the sunset from Arlington’s sky-high observation deck The View of DC, then sip wine at Artechouse and play with digital forms and color in a super-cool interactive room.

Where to splash the cash: Book dinner for two at the ultra-romantic Inn at Little Washington just outside the city.

Cheap date? Stroll hand-in-hand at dusk around the National Mall, as white marble monuments begin to glow in the dwindling light.

Tourists enjoy a live flamenco show, Plaza de Espana
Who can resist the flaming passion of a live flamenco show? © Alex Tihonovs / Shutterstock

2. Seville, Spain

Fiona Flores Watson met her media naranja in Seville. She lives there with him and their children and is still as enamored as ever by its charms.

Renowned as Spain’s most romantic city, Seville’s year-round sunshine means you can always be outside. The charming city is packed with pretty plazas, jasmine-scented patios and rooftop bars with killer views. Try the Hotel Doña Maria terrace bar at sunset, looking onto the Giralda tower.

In summer, nothing can beat a moonlit outdoor concert in the Royal Alcázar gardens for romance, while a fun daytime option is to hire a rowing boat on the canal at stunning Plaza de España with its tiled bridges. And who can resist the flaming passion of a live flamenco show?

Where to splash the cash: Hire an electric boat, complete with a bar, for your own private river trip.

Cheap date? Rise up above the rooftops at Las Setas for the best panoramic vistas in town.

a woman and a man a couple stand in a lamp shop in Marrakech the woman is pregnant both smiling taking in all the lights
Marrakech can be magical for couples © Sara Monika / Getty Images

3. Marrakesh, Morocco

Mandy Sinclair is a Marrakesh-based writer and owner of Tasting Marrakech food and cultural tours.

Magical light, hundreds of romantic riads and an unmatched ambiance make Marrakesh a perfect spot for amorous adventure. Snag a table for two in the nearby Agafay Desert and watch the sunset before tucking into a candlelit dinner. Wish upon a star before retreating to your tent for the night, waking up for the sunrise.

Glamping not your style? Choose a luxury riad and plan an early-morning wake-up call to watch the first rays illuminate the Anti Atlas Mountains during a hot-air balloon ride organized by Ciel d’Afrique.

Where to splash the cash: Try a couple’s hammam treatment at the Royal Mansour. This spot is owned by the king of Morocco, so you know you’ll be treated like royalty.

Cheap date? Pick out some fresh-cut flowers at the marché aux fleurs (flower market) before asking the florist to whip them up into a bouquet, which shouldn’t set you back more than Dh100 (USD $11).

A couple admire the view from Arthur's Seat, Edinburgh, Scotland
Treat your paramour to panoramic views in Edinburgh © Jaroslav Moravcik / Shutterstock

4. Edinburgh, Scotland

Lonely Planet writer James Smart spent 10 years in Edinburgh and is a regular visitor with his partner.

Edinburgh has great restaurants, peaceful gardens and snug pubs. Views stretch out to the Firth of Forth, across to Fife and down through atmospheric alleyways. Above it all, bang in the center of the city, looms a castle on a crag. Scotland’s strollable capital could hardly fail to set hearts fluttering.

Visitors can admire the views from windswept Arthur’s Seat or the Gothic Scott Monument, or promenade in Princes Street Gardens. Bramble hides beneath a dry cleaners and offers some of the city’s best cocktails and the Old Town is great for atmospheric pubs.

Where to splash the cash: The historic, candlelit Witchery offers Edinburgh’s classic high-end dining experience.

Cheap date? Stroll along the rather lovely Water of Leith, which takes in arty Stockbridge and dockside Leith – finish your walk with a lip-smacking fish supper from Pierinos. Else Edinburgh has plenty to do for free.

A couple embraces while watching cargo ships in Vancouver's Kitsilano Beach over Burrard Inlet
Vancouver’s Kitsilano Beach over Burrard Inlet is a great spot for gazing out at the busy harbor © Stephen Bridger / Shutterstock

5. Vancouver, Canada

Contributor John Lee is prolific, award-winning travel writer.

Vancouverites are at least as in love with the great outdoors as they are with each other. But gooey-eyed locals know exactly how to combine their passions. Hire a tandem from Spokes Bicycle Rentals to scope out picnic spots along the seawall or gaze lovingly at the sunset – and each other­­ – from Stanley Park’s Third Beach.

Rainy day? Commune with the resident lovebirds inside Bloedel Conservatory’s tropical dome or take a couples’ culinary class at Dirty Apron Cooking School. For a grand finale, hop a ferry to Bowen Island, hike up Mount Gardner and pop the question overlooking a heart-stopping ocean panorama.

Where to splash the cash: Let your love soar on a breathtaking scenic floatplane tour with Harbour Air.

Cheap date? Read romantic books together in the lofty new roof garden at downtown’s Vancouver Public Library – A Room with a View recommended.

Two couples with bikes admire the view of Houhai Lake, Beijing
On a budget? Ride bikes around Beijing with your special someone © XiXinXing / Shutterstock

6. Beijing, China

Tom O’Malley is a Lonely Planet writer based in Beijing.

In romance terms, seductive Shanghai twirls on the dance floor as Beijing props up the bar, munching sunflower seeds and checking its phone. But there are ways to woo in China’s prim and proper capital.

Local couples spice things up with a romantic repast of malatang, all your favorite things speared on sticks and daubed, salaciously, in spicy sesame goo. As dusk turns to dark, one serenades the other, KTV (karaoke) microphone in hand, before catching a Didi (China’s Uber) to an imperial beauty spot.

A stroll at Houhai Lake, perhaps, selfies on Yinding Bridge under the moon, and a big plastic beaker of sweet bubble tea – with one straw. That’s amore, Beijing-style.

Where to splash the cash: Book a suite at the Rosewood Hotel, with floor-to-ceiling views of the CCTV Tower and your own private butler to serve up the champers.

Cheap date? Ride bicycles through the Forbidden City forecourt after dark.

A couple embracing for a kiss under the Eiffel Tower, Paris, France
Fall under the romantic spell of Eiffel Tower © nullplus / Shutterstock

7. Paris, France

Catherine Le Nevez is a long-time Lonely Planet writer based in Paris.

A classic city break destination for couples, the romanticized French capital is even more captivating when viewed from the water. From its dock near the Eiffel Tower, celebrated chef Alain Ducasse’s ‘floating restaurant’ Ducasse sur Seine serves gourmet lunch and dinner menus at white-clothed tables while you glide through Paris’ heart. Canauxrama cruises along charming Canal St-Martin pass through double locks, swing bridges and an underground section.

In the city’s two sprawling forests, recreate a scene from an impressionist painting by hiring a rowboat on Lac Daumesnil in the eastern Bois de Vincennes, or Lac Inférieur in the western Bois de Boulogne.

Where to splash the cash: Take to the skies! Scenic Helipass helicopter flights over Paris land near the Château de Versailles.

Cheap date? Stroll the Seine’s riverbanks and islands including the Île aux Cygnes and the Île de la Cité’s aromatic flower market Marché aux Fleurs Reine Elizabeth II.

People at the public Saturday Salsa dancing event in Parque Kennedy in Miraflores district.
Lima can keep the passion alive no matter what age you are © olli0815 / Getty Images

8. Lima, Peru

Unexpectedly, Lonely Planet writer Agnes Rivera found love in Lima before falling in love with the city itself.

Romantic energy hovers over Lima like a sweetheart smog. Head to the fisherman’s dock in the Chorrillos district, where boatmen will row you and your other half across the sea for a small fee. Afterward, select fish fresh from the market and create your own version of Peru’s star plate: ceviche.

Further north, La Punta feels like a well-kept secret. A tranquil peninsula in Lima’s port town Callao, a romantic culture grew here when Italian immigrants arrived in the early 20th century, resulting in intimate and artisanal eateries.

Where to splash the cash: Book a table for two at seafood restaurant La Rosa Nautica, and enjoy sunset views of Lima’s skyline.

Cheap date: Wander through Parque El Olivar, an olive grove old enough to make any couple feel young again (some trees have stood here for 400 years).

Group of friends and couple walking and hanging out on the beach, waring shorts and tops
Lovebirds can enjoy culture and coastline in Perth © Kristina Lindberg/Getty Images

9. Perth, Australia

Writer Fleur Bainger fell head over heels for Western Australia more than a decade ago and continues to be wooed by its natural beauty and evolving personality.

With its sun-kissed climate and river-to-sea location, Perth is an outdoorsy city – but it’s also an underground music hotbed. Toe tappers, wow your date by entering a red telephone box and descending to the Jazz Cellar’s speakeasy or take a picnic to Fremantle Arts Centre on Sundays for free courtyard tunes (October to March).

Nature-lovers should hit secluded Bennion Beach for sunset-over-sea gazing with a bottle of local bubbles wedged in the sand or seek out the riverside Coombe Reserve in Mosman Park to amp up the romantic vibe.

Where to splash the cash: Take a private chopper from Hillarys Boat Harbour to Rottnest Island, combining aerial eye candy with an intimate picnic at local’s fave, Fay’s Bay.
Cheap date? Drive to the top of Kalamunda’s Zig Zag Scenic Drive for romantic views of twinkling city lights.

Man and woman sitting together about to kiss on rooftop terrace in Mexico City
Wine and dine and wind up at a romantic hotel in Mexico’s capital © Thomas Barwick / Getty Images

10. Mexico City, Mexico

Laura Bronner is a travel writer based in Mexico City.

Mexico City might not seem like the most romantic city at first glance, but peel back the layers and beneath its gritty exterior you’ll find passion around every corner. Start the evening with a cocktail at a little table in the back of the dimly lit Limantour in Roma Norte. Then enjoy a meal in the intimate dining room at Lorea; opt for the drinks pairing for a truly extravagant experience.

End your night at the city’s most romantic hotel, La Valise Hotel. Book yourself into the Terraza room and you can quite literally have your bed on the balcony beneath the stars. It doesn’t get more romantic than that.

Where to splash the cash: Sud 777’s candlelit rooms, Mexican wine list and unique set menu all ooze romance and sophistication.

Cheap date? Do as the local lovebirds do: bring a blanket to Chapultepec Park and canoodle in the sunshine.

How to have a romantic trip with kids in tow

Romance isn’t off limits once you have children – you just need to work harder to make it happen, and that goes for when you’re travelling too.

If a willing babysitter is a distant fantasy, or you just don’t fancy leaving the kids at home while you jet off to exotic climes, it’s still possible to sneak a little honeymoon vibe into your family trip. Here’s how.

Romantic trip with kids in tow – a father and daughter walk along the coastline in Japan.
Fall in love all over again in glorious surrounds © Ippei Naoi / Getty Images

Choose your destination wisely

This may be pointing out the obvious, but make sure you choose a destination that looks and feels romantic. Sure, the kids may still have tantrums, but strolling along a jaw-dropping white sand beach, or the streets of a beautifully dishevelled Mediterranean city will help take the edge off.

Yes, a Disney cruise or a cheerful child-focused resort might keep the kids out of your hands for longer, but you’ll have to spend your ‘alone time’ in the company of giant dancing cartoon characters, or worse: strangers’ children.

Space out

There’s no bigger passion killer than having to cram the entire family into one room. You know the drill: you wrestle the kids into bed, then spend the rest of the evening in semi-darkness, tiptoeing around in silence for fear of waking them up.

Renting an apartment is one solution – they get their own room and you get to have dinner at an adult-friendly hour. But if having to do your own washing up seems too much like domestic drudgery, splash out on a hotel suite or connecting rooms, or at least plump for a hotel room with a terrace so you can have some quiet time together while the kids are asleep.

Romantic trip with kids in tow – A grandmother and grandson play on the beach.
Good old grandma saves the day for tired parents © Leren Lu / Getty Images

Bring reinforcements

Remember the days when you could pop out of the house on a whim for a quick drink? When a trip to the beach didn’t involve buckets, spades and sandy meltdowns? No? Bring the grandparents along for the ride and you can remind yourself.

Your kids get to spend quality time with grandma and grandpa, and you get to spend quality time out on the town with your other half, so it’s a win all around. And unlike kids’ clubs and babysitters, there’s no need to book in advance, so impromptu walks on the beach are possible once again. If you’re very lucky, you may even get a lie-in.

Romantic trip with kids in tow – a couple dine overlooking Lake Como, Italy.
The kids’ club sports lessons will feel a million miles away when you’re enjoying a quiet lunch © Marco Bottigelli / Getty Images

Keep the kids entertained

The good old kids’ club is the easiest way to make time for romance on a family holiday. While your offspring are led on treasure hunts, you can relive your child-free days by sightseeing unencumbered, enjoying lunch by the sea, or, if you’re truly frazzled, taking a long, companionable nap.

If your children are too young for a kids’ club, there are often trained babysitters available, and some hotels offer baby listening services (less creepy than it sounds), enabling you to go out for a romantic dinner after putting the kids to bed.

Romantic trip with kids in tow – A woman looks out over the Santorini coastline from the breakfast table.
Make the most of nap times with your own private balcony © Grinvalds / Getty Images

Make nap time count

Having children who are young enough to nap is an added bonus when trying to ramp up the romantic atmosphere. Location is key here too. No one wants to be stuck in a hotel room watching a baby sleep, so book digs with some outside space, preferably with swoon-inducing surrounds.

Alternatively, you can lull them to sleep in the buggy while you take a walk, and when they’ve finally dozed off, sink a few cocktails and take in the view. If you’ve got a good sleeper, this can also work for an evening out.

Take a group holiday

Dealing with your own children on holiday can be challenging, so having others join the fray may seem ill-advised. But hire a villa with a group of friends and you can take it in turns to watch the little ones, allowing you some days and nights off to rekindle the old flame.

You could even take one of an ever-increasing number of group tours aimed at families, such as those organised by G Adventures or the Family Adventure Company. The kids will have an instant group of friends, and the other parents can help shoulder the childcare responsibilities, giving everyone a little couples’ time off.

Romantic trip with kids in tow – a family watch the sunset on Kubu Island, Botswana.
All ages can appreciate a beautiful sunset © Stefan Schuetz / Getty Images

Let the kids in on the fun

There’s no rule that says you can only enjoy a bit of romance when the kids aren’t around. Watch the sunset together as a family, or go to a beautiful spot for a beach picnic, with champagne for the grown-ups and sparkling soft drinks for the kids.

Remember that magical moments can be found in unexpected places. Just being together and watching your kids’ wide-eyed excitement as they discover new places and experiences can be pretty romantic in itself.

Romantic trip with kids in tow – two children watch a lion through binoculars in South Africa.
Safari lodge stays can be very romantic, even with kids in tow © Laurence Monneret / Getty Images

Where to go

Mauritius – With all the drop-dead gorgeous beaches you could wish for, this is prime romantic couples’ territory, yet many resorts are well set up for children, with kids’ clubs, babysitting and even the odd family massage session.

Glamping, Great Britain – Wear the kids out with wholesome countryside activities, then enjoy fire-lit evenings underneath the stars – without dampening the mood by having to put up your own tent.

Thailand – Few places beat Thailand for great value accommodation. Rent a bargainous romantic villa and luxuriate in the space between you and your offspring.

Italy – Hire a charming old farmhouse in the countryside. Once the kids are in bed you can gaze out over the hills and vineyards and stuff yourself silly with fine Italian produce.

South Africa – Visit one of the country’s many family-friendly wildlife lodges. While you’re off on a sunset game drive, the kids can enjoy the delights of a mini dung spotting safari.

Are you and your kids curious about the world? Come explore! Let’s start an adventure on the Lonely Planet Kids blog.

Hurrah! Same-sex marriage is finally legal in Switzerland: here’s how to get married there

Earlier this year, July 1 to be exact, Switzerland said “I do” to same-sex marriages. Whilst same-sex couples won the right to enter civil partnerships back in 2007, it was only after a referendum late last year whereby popular vote, more than 64% of voters approved the “Marriage for All” initiative.

Not only has the Swiss Civil Code to define marriage changed from “a union between bride and a groom” to “a union between two people”, but the parliamentary amendment now gives LGBTQ+ community members greater equality when it comes to marriage, adoption and parental rights.

Despite the country ranking as one of the most LGBTQ-friendly countries in the world, Switzerland seems to be playing catch up to other European countries like Germany, the United Kingdom and France where same-sexed marriages were approved in 2017, 2014 and 2013 respectively.

In celebration of this historical LGBTQ victory and to help you navigate your own wedding (whether same-sex or otherwise) here is everything you need to know for your special wedding day in beautiful Switzerland. Felicitations!

Why did it take Switzerland so long?

Campaigning for gay marriage in Switzerland started more than 40 years ago and when the Netherlands became the first country to approve same-sex marriage back in 2001, Switzerland didn’t step into action and be on par with the Dutch. Switzerland only really started making inroads and moved in the same direction as their neighbors Germany and France in 2013 after many rounds of voting which resulted in a law that saw no person was to be discriminated based on “race, ethnicity, religion or sexual orientation”. Since then, Switzerland has been moving towards marriage equality. A country constantly rated as one of the “safest” and “friendliest” destinations in the world is finally making amends to be more inclusive when it comes to ethnicities, racial status and LGBTQ standings.

Chris Sprenger, President of PRIDE Central Switzerland celebrates Switzerland’s move for equality, “I feel good that it has finally arrived in Switzerland. It took way too long but it is a step to equality,” says Chris. He adds, “Many people waited desperately to have the opportunity to marry their partner, but this (law) now offers security for the LGBTQ+ community which is most important.”

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A lesbian wedding reception
Much to celebrate: same-sex couples are now allowed to adopt children in Switzerland © VegterFoto / Stocksy

What other benefits does this bring?

The security that Chris refers to comes in the form of new benefits. With the approval of same-sex marriages, the LGBTQ community have even more things to celebrate. Under the new amended law, same-sex couples are now also allowed to adopt children and married lesbian couples are allowed to have children through sperm donation which was only legal for married heterosexual couples. The new law also extends the role of parent to the woman not carrying the child and furthermore, the law also allows same-sex couples who are currently already registered in a partnership to convert their union into a marriage.

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What countries recognize gay marriage in Switzerland?

Not all countries recognize gay marriages from other countries and there are only 19 out of 50 countries in Europe that do recognize same-sex marriages at the moment. Although Switzerland is not a part of the EU, they do have tight relationships with its neighbors which means its same-sex marriage policy is recognized in other countries that have the same law. Besides Switzerland, same-sex marriages are legally valid and performed in Austria, Belgium, Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Iceland, Ireland, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Portugal, Spain, Sweden, and the United Kingdom. Also, countries including Andorra, Croatia, Cyprus, the Czech Republic, Estonia, Greece, Hungary, Italy, Liechtenstein, Monaco, Montenegro, San Marino, and Slovenia recognize some form of same-sex civil union.

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A newlywed gay couple celebrates their nuptials, now a possibility in Switzerland
A newlywed gay couple celebrates their nuptials, now a possibility in Switzerland © Rawpixel.com / Shutterstock

What is the procedure in Switzerland?

For American citizens who wish to marry in Switzerland, you will need to fill out a document declaring a definitive statement that you meet all the requirements for marriage. The Swiss Civil Registrar of the town or city where you want to get married will help you with the necessary requirements and it is worth noting that only Swiss civil authorities may marry you, not consular officers. Some common details you should keep in mind include: having two adults as witnesses present, translating any documents before arriving (French, German or Italian depending on what part of Switzerland you are in) and providing your residence status. There is also a waiting period of up to five weeks which is ample time for you to start planning your wedding in Switzerland.

Switzerland visa requirements

What are the legal requirements?

There are a few things you have to meet in order to get married in Switzerland. The brides or grooms must be at least 18 years old and not be already married or in a registered partnership. If you are not Swiss but are marrying a Swiss resident, you will have to provide the appropriate documentation from your home country and in some cases apply for a visa. You will also need to notify the registry office of your address and intention and the office will send a marriage license permitting you and your partner to wed in their building. Unfortunately, you can not wed in Switzerland on a tourist visa but if you do have approval, it takes just three months to get married after authorization from the registrar.

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A lesbian couple shares an intimate moment on their wedding day
A lesbian couple shares an intimate moment on their wedding day © LumiNola / Getty

How much does it cost?

A civil ceremony ranges between $300 to $400 USD. A civil partnership fee is $200 USD. When it comes to your wedding, the average price ranges from $40,000 and $50,000 USD for an all-inclusive wedding (catering, DJ, wedding planner and photography) for 80 guests, however additional costs can come into play like having a wedding on the weekend, during high season or if you have expensive tastes and want to hire out an entire hotel for your special day! We are after all in Switzerland – everything comes at a hefty cost but it will be memorable if you know how to plan it!

The best time to go to Switzerland

The best destination for a winter wedding in Switzerland

Switzerland is the ideal place for a wedding with beauty found in all 26 cantons. Forget your wedding photographer photoshopping your wedding photo with fluffy clouds drifting over the Swiss Alps – no, in Switzerland everything is exactly as Mother Nature intended and contributes to a memorable wedding album. An ideal location would be in one of the country’s most historical hotels, The Kulm Hotel St. Moritz with the charming 19th-century hotel perched high up in the Swiss mountains overlooking the sparkly Lake St. Moritz. The hotel has its own on-site wedding planner and can help you from start to finish with catering, make-up and even floral arrangements curated by the hotel team. As far as activities go, could there be anything more romantic than going on a horse-drawn carriage with the snow-capped Swiss alps in the background?

Chillon Castle on the island Vaud, Switzerland
Chillon Castle on the island Vaud, Switzerland © Christian Dagnæs / 500px

Best castle for your wedding

If you have always dreamed of being royalty, why not consider hosting your wedding in a castle or palace in Switzerland? Chateau Gutsch perched high above Lake Lucerne is an elegant choice for weddings with the newly renovated Belle-Epoque chateau reopening earlier this year to host already a slew of weddings.

On the French-speaking side, a perennial favorite is the very same castle that inspired Disney’s The Little Mermaid, Chateau Chillon. Located on Lake Leman, the medieval island fortress sits just outside of resort town Montreux and can be booked for your wedding but be warned, the castle closes at midnight – how very Disney!

For self-professed foodies who love wine, the Le Grand Bellevue Palace in Gstaad is a much safer bet for people who like to party well into the night. The glamorously elegant hotel caters to big and small weddings with private function rooms in their award-winning wine cellar, alpine chalet and also 160 capacity banquet hall which is of course catered by Michelin-star chef Francesco de Bartolomeis.

How to get around in Switzerland

Best wedding destinations for a Mediterranean vibe

If you are not a winter person, don’t dismiss Switzerland just yet. With more than 1500 lakes in Switzerland, it is hard to forget you are in a landlocked country with all the pristinely clean rivers, lakes and reservoirs that make up this well-groomed country. The lakes are not only great destinations for sports during the summer but they are great destinations for weddings too. On the German-speaking side of Switzerland, Victoria Jungfrau Grand Hotel and Spa takes out all the hard work for your wedding with a planner on-site to meet your needs. Choose to have your wedding in a heritage-protected Salon Napoleon under Europe’s largest Murano chandelier or in a garden surrounded by hundreds of lanterns with the Jungfrau as your backdrop.

If you find yourself on the French-speaking side of Switzerland, nothing beats the gorgeous Beau-Rivage Palace, a historical hotel where the treaty of Lausanne was signed and where Charlie Chaplin and Coco Channel frequently visited. Whether you choose to have your wedding in their garden overlooking Lake Leman or in the historical banquet hall, the recently renovated Beau Rivage Palace remains a gem for special events with the 18th-century art-nouveau decor seemingly never going out of fashion.

The 7 most scenic road trips in Switzerland

A young lesbian couple celebrates their marriage
A young lesbian couple celebrates their marriage © Hinterhaus Productions / Getty

Best honeymoon destinations

You can easily spend your honeymoon in a big city like Zurich or Geneva but given you just got married to your one true love, you surely want to be alone and what better way to do this than spending your honeymoon in the middle of nowhere: Andermatt. Once a booming resort for alpine skiing, the now lesser-known alpine region is relatively isolated (compared to St. Moritz and touristy Zermatt) and it feels like it is just you, your new groom/bride and the mountains. The Chedi Andermatt is a nice spot for your wedding banquet but this 5-star luxury hotel is even better as a honeymoon spot with the hotel relatively hidden in the mountains. There is no guilt if you choose not to leave your room, they are spacious, inspiring and soundproof.

For city dwellers, you can’t beat the coolest city hotel in the country, the Dolder Grand in Zurich. Perched high above the city, overlooking Lake Zurich, the hotel has an impressive art collection but an even better spa and wellness center to cure a hangover after celebrating your unity in Zurich.

Views you have to see to believe: 9 must-do hikes in Switzerland

Best place for bachelor/bachelorette party

Wedding bliss aside, nothing is more important than the biggest party you will ever have in your lifetime: your bachelorette/bachelor party. What better way to wave adieu to your single life (finally!) than in Zurich’s largest LGBTQ-friendly city: Zurich. Julia Mueller, member and supporter of the LGBTQ Community in Zurich and volunteer at the Pink Apple Film Festival loves how LGBTQ-friendly her home city is and doesn’t recommend just LGBTQ bars for celebrations and parties. “Zurich is a very LGBTQ-friendly city so we don’t need to separate our bars (from non-Queer destinations). The new law encourages an even stronger and safer feeling for us and personally, I like Das Gleis and Daniel H when I go out with friends. Although Zurich is known for their LGBTQ activities, Chris encourages partying in other cantons outside of Zurich like Bern and Lucerne, “My favorite bar in Zurich is Cranberry’s and L’arbre is queer-friendly for a cozy place with good drinks. Many people say Zurich is the only place for LGBTQ+ fun but even in Central Switzerland, we have around 10-15 organizations who offer spontaneous gatherings, parties, sports and other things,” says Chris.

2022 Pride: 12 most LGBTIQ+ friendly destinations

Cailler chocolaterie, Switzerland
The perfectly arranged shelves of chocolate in Cailler chocolaterie, one of the oldest chocolate manufacturers in Switzerland © Carsten Reisinger / Shutterstock

Best souvenirs for your guests

Switzerland is a country made for souvenirs with wine and chocolate being the best items to take home to loved ones. Rather than giving keychains of the Eiffel tower to your guests, there are many great Swiss souvenirs to give your guests as a memory of your special day. A great parting gift for guests, boutique chocolateries can be found all over Switzerland with Max Chocolate in Lucerne, Auer Chocolate in Geneva and La Flor in Zurich coming highly recommended for their curated and tailor-made selections for special occasions.

Meet the Swiss cows behind your favorite European treats

Love at first hike: how adventure travel can bring you closer

The first date, the first kiss, the first fight, the first trip – these rites of passage form the foundations of an early relationship. Travelling together is especially telling. Does one person want to surf at dawn and the other prefer to laze? Does one perk up and the other shrink back at the prospect of wild camping? Adventure travel in particular can alter a relationship for better or worse.

Lonely Planet Trailblazers Kia and Peter from Atlas & Boots have travelled together since 2014. Here they share how adventure travel has changed and challenged their relationship.

Peter Watson washing dishes in the sea in Fiji © Atlas and Boots
Peter doing the washing up, Fiji camping-style © Atlas and Boots

First-time camping on a Fiji beach

Taveuni on Fiji is a Pacific paradise perfect for camping. With open canvas beneath night-time skies and the gentle hush of a peaceful sea, Beverly Beach was the perfect opportunity to introduce Kia to camping. Alas, it did not go as planned.

Kia: Camping on a beach sounds lovely, but I thoroughly hated it. There were wild dogs in the area that wouldn’t leave us alone, droves of mosquitoes, awful facilities and even a roach or two from the dwellings next door. On the second night, while in the toilet, in the dark, something wet and heavy landed on my foot – too big to be a bug, too small to be a cat. I ran out, horrified, later discovering that it was a massive toad. I enjoy adventure travel, but this wasn’t my idea of fun and I’ve resisted camping ever since.

Peter: I am happiest under canvas and was keen to initiate Kia into the pleasures of camping.

Sadly, she hated it and to my dismay still hates it to this day. The experience taught us to meet in the middle. Now, we limit camping trips to a maximum of three days. I get my fix and she keeps her cool.

Kia and Peter from Atlas and Boots take a selfie in the sea while diving © Atlas and Boots
Forget the diving skills, these two have strong selfie game © Atlas and Boots

Out of our depth on a Vanuatu dive

After a month on the Pacific islands of Vanuatu, we had four days left with nothing to do. Over sunset drinks, we spotted a fellow backpacker studying for the PADI Open Water Diver course and decided we had just enough time to get certified too.

Kia: I was born and raised in London and seldom had the chance to swim, so I severely struggled with my PADI certification. Peter, on the other hand, grew up by the sea and found it extremely easy. I’m highly competitive and had a hard time accepting that I was weak at this. I had to learn to let go of control and allow Peter to teach me.

Peter: Kia is a bit of a nerd and is used to being good at things. Diving, however, was a clear shortcoming. Learning to dive together was great because it taught us how to teach and learn from each other, to leave our egos on the boat, to be patient, and to trust and rely on each other underwater. Adventure travel and diving in particular is a genuinely enriching experience for couples.

Erta Ale volcano, Ethiopia © Mikhail Cheremkin / Getty Images
A little more than sparks could fly at Erta Ale © Mikhail Cheremkin / Getty Images

The ‘hike from hell’ in Ethiopia

Erta Ale volcano in Ethiopia has been dubbed the ‘hike from hell’. Two nights with no running water, no toilets and no privacy in searing temperatures and under armed guard are testing circumstances for any couple.

Kia: This hike really underlined how past adventures have toughened me up and brought us closer together. There was no privacy and we had to venture far from camp to find a tree or ditch for a shared toilet break (and not just the ladylike variety). This trip taught me that being able to laugh together is worth a thousand luxuries.

Peter: Despite an obvious lack of comfort, Erta Ale was one of the best things we’ve done together. Travelling to an incredible natural sight in one of the least accessible places on my bucket list was utterly thrilling. People talk about the ‘seven year itch’, but if you continue to do exciting things, you will continue to be excited.

Kia and Peter pose for a photo in Salar de Uyuni © Atlas and Boots
Quick, while there’s no one around… © Atlas and Boots

Language barrier at the Bolivian border

After eight months on the road, we found ourselves fast waning. Bolivia was a test in more ways than one.

Kia: Crossing overland from Bolivia to Chile was unexpectedly complicated. There was tortured wrangling in Spanish, an overnight stay in a hovel and lavish fees on exit and entry. I speak some Spanish and had therefore been the de facto leader through the last four countries of our trip and found myself quickly tiring. The experience taught me that I had to buck up and be the strong one when the situation called for it.

Peter: South America was frustrating because I had to watch Kia struggle with the language barrier and could do nothing to help. On one occasion, she was demanding a refund for a room that had no water, but the proprietor only agreed to a dollar. Normally, I’d get confrontational, but had to let Kia handle it. It taught us to play to our strengths and ease each other’s weaknesses.

The northern lights, seen in Norway © Atlas and Boots
Even the anti-romantics out there will struggle not to swoon over the northern lights © Atlas and Boots

True romance under Northern Lights

It was our second night in a freezing cold Norway. Buffeted by icy winds, we prayed that this would be the night we’d finally see the lights.

Kia: I didn’t have high hopes. A few years earlier, we had spent a freezing night in Iceland, fruitlessly waiting for the lights to appear just as we had in Norway the night before. Not a glimmer. This night, however, our guide was sure: the lights would finally appear. He was right and they were utterly jaw-dropping. I held Peter’s hand and, for a moment, we were no longer wry Brits or seen-it-all travellers; we weren’t cynical Londoners, or a writer and a photographer angling for a story. We were just two people in love experiencing something extraordinary.

Peter: Seeing the Northern Lights in Norway was one of the best things I’ve done. It was worth the biting cold and crushing disappointment of prior attempts. That moment, under those lights, taught us to enjoy extraordinary moments without sullying them with a silly joke or sly aside; to enjoy romantic moments purely for what they are.

Epic Hikes of the World (Paperback)

In search of silence in Sharjah, the UAE’s up-and-coming emirate

Nowhere does next-level opulence like the United Arab Emirates, and in our perpetually moving world, simply savouring silence has become the next sought-after luxury.

To the untrained eye, Sharjah is just a seamless extension of its glitzy next-door neighbour, Dubai, and all the glamour (and grudges) that tag along with it. But Sharjah stands its ground, and few places straddle the line of the past and progress quite so well. This uber-accomplished emirate has some serious culture cred on its CV: Cultural Capital of the Arab World in 1998, Islamic Culture Capital in 2014, Capital of Arab Tourism in 2015.

With this culture seems to come a certain type of calm: feet quietly shuffling through an under-visited museum; a steaming cup of karak chai, that ubiquitous milky black tea spiced to perfection with cardamom and saffron, best enjoyed under an enveloping blanket of desert stars; or simply standing still long enough to baffle a building full of butterflies. Whether you’re looking to take the pace down a notch from the high of Dubai or just need a healthy dose of peace and quiet, these spots in Sharjah promise to bring you tantalisingly close to zero decibels.

Sand dunes in front of the Hajar Mountains in the deserts of Sharjah, United Arab Emirates
Quietly contemplate Sharjah’s new archaeological discoveries that are reshaping the story of humanity © Aleksandr Serebrennikov / EyeEm / Getty Images

Peer into the past at the Mleiha archaeological site

No matter how glitzy the cities are, the Emirati soul will forever be found in the desert. And, as it turns out, some of our own ancestral underpinnings, whether we’re Arab or not, emerged from these sands in Sharjah. One of humanity’s first settlements outside Africa was located in an area of Sharjah now called Mleiha, a hushed, Martian-looking desertscape far removed from the emirate’s urban hum. Archaeological excavations have unearthed a bounty of ancient artefacts, including 125,000-year-old stone hand axes, that indicate that early humans thrived here. These findings have rewritten our own history, as researchers now believe that early humans could have left Africa 20,000 years earlier than previously thought.

Start your exploration at the visitors centre, unveiled in 2016, for a crash course in the history of humanity. Excavations are strewn across the surrounding desert, so sign up for a tour and pick your mode of transport for trailing the footsteps of your ancestors: 4WD, mountain bike or your own two feet. But the true highlight of this site is staying for sunset and beyond, so you can overnight amongst the desert dunes. Before you bed down for the night, you can open a window into the past on a dune-driving 4WD excursion to Fossil Rock, a huge landmark stone in the middle of nowhere that’s embedded with countless creatures, and ponder existence with a stargazing session: the visitors centre provides sophisticated telescopes to view constellations, the moon and our planetary neighbours, plus – if it’s a clear night – galaxies far, far away.

Man walks through the Rain Room art installation in Sharjah, United Arab Emirates
Walk through water without getting wet at Sharjah’s Rain Room © Lauren Keith / Lonely Planet

Weather the storm at Sharjah’s Rain Room

A permanent downpour has arrived in the desert with the opening of the Rain Room art installation, which has settled in Sharjah after a round-the-world tour. Nearly 3000 litres of water drip from the ceiling of a nearly pitch-black room, pierced only by a horizontal beam that seems to train the spotlight on each individual drop. As opposed to braving it in unsympathetic Mother Nature, your body is your umbrella in the Rain Room, where a sophisticated system of networked cameras tracks your movement – step slowly to stay dry and move quickly at your own risk. While admittedly the falling pitter-patter of perpetual rain isn’t decibel-free, the natural noise is music to the ears. Groups inside the Rain Room are limited to six people.

The Sharjah city skyline at sunset with Al Noor Island in the foreground, United Arab Emirates
Al Noor Island is an urban retreat from Sharjah city © Bdalzyz Mmd / EyeEm / Getty Images

Find stillness amongst the butterflies on Al Noor Island

Attached to the mainland by a single meandering thread of a bridge, Al Noor Island is a wonderfully lush retreat from the high rises of Sharjah city. Walkways, some of which transform unannounced into pavement-wide trampolines, encircle the isle, which was designed by Austrian artist André Heller. Al Noor Island’s central attraction is its modern but nature-inspired glass-paned butterfly house, which is home to hundreds of peacefully fluttering specimens, and it’s partially obscured by a sunlight-bright metal ‘wave’ that looks somewhere between traditional mashrabiya (lattice screens in Middle Eastern architecture that allow someone to see out but not in) and a super-deluxe K’Nex set. Lie in wait long enough and you might just be remodelled into a butterfly-approved piece of furniture, as they slowly become less shy about where they settle. Al Noor Island is particularly tranquil at night when 1200 fibreglass bulbs light up the ‘glimmering meadow’ and sway like fireflies: the result is magical.

Traditional Indian and Middle Eastern designs and architecture above a door at Al Bait, Sharjah, United Arab Emirates
Beautiful architectural details have been kept in place at Al Bait in the Heart of Sharjah © Lauren Keith / Lonely Planet

Stay off the grid … or in the middle of it all

Because of its close proximity to Dubai – and an alcohol ban that seems to frighten some people – Sharjah receives only a fraction of the overnight visitors, so travellers who opt to stay are in for a treat. Brand new boutique hotels that promise to conserve the local culture, heritage and natural ecosystems are popping up across the emirate in some of the least expected places. In the aptly named Heart of Sharjah, a white-washed restored heritage district in the centre of the city, hides Al Bait, low-rise luxury digs that are built on the foundations of old houses (Al Bait means ‘house’ in Arabic). The traditional architecture aims for peak privacy, as the suites are clustered around quiet courtyards. You can even check into the hotel while you’re still at the airport so you can get straight to relaxing.

Nestled in the red-streaked sands near the archaeological site of Mleiha is a secluded spot worth seeking out when it opens later in 2019. Al Faya Lodge has just five rooms and was improbably fashioned from an abandoned 1960s-era medical clinic and grocery store; also on site is what’s thought to be one of the first petroleum pumps in the UAE. The rooms have over-bed skylights that are primed for silent stargazing, and just off the modernist-style swimming pool is the unique ‘hands-free’ spa, where treatments are administered simply by relaxing in the rooms: watch the sunset from the Himalayan salt inhalation room before washing off in the tropical shower and heading to the the herbal ventilation area, where the air is peppered with scents of chamomile, cinnamon, cloves and frankincense.

Interior of a safari tent at Kingfisher Lodge, with views of the beach of Sharjah, United Arab Emirates
Take glamping to the next level at Kingfisher Lodge, on the east coast of Sharjah © Kingfisher Lodge

Kayak through Khor Kalba and glamp near the beach

As the only emirate with real estate on both of the country’s coasts, Sharjah makes the most of its stretches of sea. Leave the busy built-up western side for the eastern enclave of Khor Kalba, where you can paddle the calm coastal waters amid mangrove forest, spotting turtles and crabs as you float past in a kayak. For pure solitude at night, book into secluded Kingfisher Lodge, which has just 25 safari-style tents propped up on a private peninsula: glamping doesn’t get more glam than this. It’s worth waking early to salute the sun and linger as the pastel hues emerge over the beach: watch it unfold undisturbed from your bed, your personal plunge pool or your patio.

Lauren Keith travelled to Sharjah with support from Sharjah Commerce and Tourism Development Authority. Lonely Planet contributors do not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage.

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Wild Thailand: exploring Khao Sok National Park

‘Up there – can you see them?’ Scanning the evening sky above the jungle, they were alarmingly easy to spot: hundreds of Pteropus vampyrus – or flying foxes – out on an evening feeding mission. With a wingspan approaching 1.5m, the giant bats filled the horizon in a flapping black swarm.

It was my first night in southern Thailand’s Khao Sok National Park, and a dramatic introduction to the wildlife I knew lurked in this ancient rainforest.

Some say the biodiversity of Khao Sok exceeds that of the Amazon. Most agree that at over 160 million years old, the evergreen rainforest here is one of the oldest in the world. Whichever list it tops, the fact this 738-sq-km expanse of national park exists at all in its current state – alive with whooping gibbons, flashing hornbills and with such richness of flora and fauna that an entomologist on honeymoon once picked up a rock and discovered a new species – is something to be grateful for. And this biodiversity haven owes a few thanks to an unexpected twist of fate.

From 1975 to 1982, at a time when Thailand was losing 3% of its forest cover a year to the logging industry, a group of communist insurgents made a stronghold in the caves of Khao Sok. From here they acted out guerrilla warfare against the Thai government, inadvertently also keeping loggers, miners and hunters at the park’s fringes, allowing the jungle inside to thrive.

A white-throated kingfisher perched on a branch in Khao Sok National Park
The national park is home to over 300 different bird species, including the white-throated kingfisher. Mustang_79 / Getty Images

And thanks to them, thrive it does. Treetops shake with monkeys and birds, winged lizards bounce from branch to rock, and sky-high bamboo stalks bathe everything in a stripey green light.

Located inland between the Andaman and Gulf coasts, Khao Sok is often overlooked by travellers in favour of southern Thailand’s coastal resorts and islands. But for anyone wishing to swap beach beats for tranquil jungle trails, lake swimming, cool bat-filled caves and the chance to spot a wealth of indigenous species in their natural habitat, this secret garden is an easy getaway.

Swinging gibbons and tarantula nests: jungle trekking

Just being in the park means coming face to face with nature, but the best way to experience Khao Sok’s wild bounty is on a guided jungle trek. It is possible to trek independently and trails from the park headquarters are well-maintained and easy-to-follow, but the knowledge of the local guides will enhance your trip ten-fold. They’ll point out the woven funnel of a tarantula nest or the scratches on a tree made by a Malayan sun bear, and will give lessons on the jungle’s medicinal plants and birdsong.

Most of the big mammals in the park – wild elephants, sun bears, clouded leopards and tigers – will remain elusive to trekkers, but the cracking of jackfruit should soon alert you to the presence of primates. Long-tailed macaques are an almost guaranteed sight, with troupes making bold acrobatic displays right on the trail. White-handed gibbons and spectacled langurs are a rarer and more rewarding spot. Gibbons stick to the high branches making long, Tarzan-like swings through the trees; a joy to behold. Gaurs, tapirs and barking deer can sometimes be seen or heard, especially in the wet season (June to October).

Lesser mouse-deer (Tragulus kanchil) walking.
The shy and mysterious mouse deer is a native to the park. Kajornyot Wildlife Photography / Shutterstock

On night safaris, the jungle takes on another persona as it squeaks and hisses with insects and some 30 bat species, including 8 varieties of megabat. This is also the time to look out for a tiny mouse deer, the smallest hooved animal in the world, or the big glassy eyes of a slow loris. When in bloom, special treks to see the Rafflesia kerrii are put into operation. With a diameter reaching 90cm, it’s the largest flower in the world, and, in Thailand, only grows in Khao Sok.

HDR Photo. Three rocks in Cheow Lan Lake, Khao Sok National Park, Thailand.
Huge karst mountains rise from the placid water of Chiaw Lan Lake. Dadoodas / Getty Images

Raft houses and swimming in Chiaw Lan Lake

This vast 165-sq-km lake sprawls in the middle of the park, a sparkling blue jewel in the crown of its attractions. It’s a magical place where huge karst mountains rise from the water. Some reach over 900m – three times the height of those in Vietnam’s Halong Bay. The jungle growth at the lake’s edge shimmers emerald in the reflected light. It seems peculiar that something so naturally stunning could be a modern invention, but the lake was formed in 1982 when the Ratchaprapha Dam was constructed.

To fully appreciate the tranquility of the lake, an overnight stay in a floating raft house is a must, and access is by a thrilling long-tail boat ride across the vast lake. The accommodation is rustic, but this is more than made up for by glorious lake swimming and the dawn mist rolling over the water to the whoops of gibbon calls.

Young woman traveler at cave entrance on island hopping in Cheow Lan Lake.
Spiders, bats, and intricate stalactites and stalagmites are features of cave visits. ViewApart / Getty Images

Bats and stalactites: cave tours

For fans of the dark delights of spelunking, there are several intriguing caves to visit, including Tham Si Ru – the cave used as a secret hideout by communist insurgents in the late 1970s. Two of the easier to access are Pra Kay Petch (Diamond) and Pakaran (Coral) caves, both of which include a long-tail boat or raft trip to the cave entrance, and fabulous rock formations inside.

A more intrepid experience is a guided trek through Nam Thalu cave. Not for the faint-hearted, the trek involves wading in subterranean streams through an increasingly narrow passage and should not be carried out in the rainy season when flash flooding is a real risk.

Make it happen

Khao Sok National Park is located inland from the Andaman Coast of southern Thailand, around two hours’ drive from Khao Lak, or an hour from Surat Thani. From Surat you can catch a bus going towards Takua Pa; from the Andaman Coast, take a Surat Thani-bound bus. Buses stop on Rte 401, 1.8km southwest of the park headquarters, which has useful maps for trekking and other information. Most visitors see the park on a two- or three-night organised tour which will usually include accommodation, activities such as trekking and caving as well as a stay in a floating raft house on Chiaw Lan Lake, and transfer from Surat Thani or Khao Lak. Tours can also be arranged with most of the lodges in the park itself. We recommend avoiding any package offering elephant riding.

Tour operators

Rainforest Camp specialises in luxury tented accommodation, both floating style on the lake, and in its Elephant Hills jungle lodge. Its two-night, three-day package (from THB 20,372) includes transfers, meals, a non-riding elephant interaction, guided trekking and a night on the lake.

Anurak Community Lodge is situated in a tranquil spot apart from the park’s main hub, and runs day tours including trips (but no overnight stay) to Chiaw Lan Lake, trekking, tubing and rafting on the Sok River. Its 18 bungalows (from THB 2900 a night, without activities) are surrounded by lush vegetation.

Rickshaw Travel is a UK-based operator specialising in immersive travel experiences. It offers a three-night, four-day tour of the park (from £468 per person), with transfers, accommodation in a community-run lodge, meals, an English-speaking guide and a night on a floating raft house on Chiaw Lan Lake. The Khao Sok trip is one of several short tours that can be combined into a longer holiday (a minimum of three trips is required for booking).

What to pack

  • Light, breathable clothing

  • Rain poncho or waterproof jacket

  • Swimming costume and towel

  • Sunglasses and hat

  • Sturdy walking shoes or trainers with good tread

  • Insect repellent (with DEET)

  • Suncream

  • Ear plugs

  • Small torch

  • Camera, charger and universal plug adaptor

  • Daypack

Code of conduct

  • Stick to existing hiking trails to avoid erosion

  • Never chase or try to catch wildlife

  • Take all litter with you, including cigarette ends

  • There are no toilets on hiking trails; bury your waste and burn tissue

  • Never cut down wood for fire making. Use dead branches

  • Ensure fires are completely out and cleared before moving on

  • Nudity causes offence in Thai culture; wear a modest swimming costume when bathing

Dora Ball travelled to Thailand with support from Rickshaw Travel. Lonely Planet contributors do not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage.

Baroque n stroll: two days in Vienna

As the former HQ of the Hapsburg Empire, the Austrian capital has a flabbergasting stash of cultural and art treasures – more than you could ever hope to see in a lifetime. But with 48 hours on your hands, you can easily take in some of the city’s trophy sights: baroque palaces bejewelled with Klimt’s golden wonders, grand concert halls, and contemporary art in the born-again imperial stables.

The Viennese don’t rush unless they have to. So with this two-day Vienna itinerary, we’ve factored in time for coffee breaks, park life, market shops, tram rides and aimless strolls in lanes that twist and turn as much as the Danube.

Day One

Morning

Kick-start your day with a kleiner Brauner (espresso with a splash of milk) in the vaulted splendor of Café Central, the one-time haunt of Trotsky, Freud and poet Peter Altenberg. History seeps through the back alleys of the Innere Stadt, which is where you’ll wander to emerge eventually at Stephansdom. With typical droll humour, the Viennese nicknamed this whopper of a Gothic cathedral Steffl (Little Stephen). Draw your gaze skywards to notice its chevron-tiled roof before heading inside to the magnificent nave and catacombs. A pulse-quickening climb up the south tower’s 343 steps reveals knockout views of the city fading into the undulations of hills beyond.

The former wintering ground of the Hapsburgs, the Hofburg sums up the pomp and ceremony of Vienna in all its frescoed, gilded, chandelier-lit glory. It’s at its most impressive approached from Michaelerplatz. Top billing goes to the Kaiserappartements, where the focus is on the nation’s beloved Empress Elisabeth, or Sisi, famous for her fad diets, waspish waist and cascading tresses. Check out her Pullman coach, gowns and fitness room, then devote time to other palace draws, such as the Schatzkammer crown jewels, where a 2680-carat Columbian emerald sparkles. Providing you’ve booked ahead, you can watch snow-white Lipizzaner stallions performing morning exercises at the Spanish Riding School.

Afternoon

Grab a bite to eat at the Bitzinger Würstelstand am Albertinaplatz, famous for its Bosna wurst topped with fried onions, or try delicious breads and spreads with a Pfiff (0.2l) beer at central Trzesniewski. A relaxed hour can be spent moseying around the Innere Stadt’s stately plazas and alleys, lined with old-school confectioners, porcelain shops and boutiques – try the Dorotheum auction house for antiques, Austrian Delights for regional edibles and Art Up for new-wave design and fashion.

The Hapsburgs collected bombastic palaces and galleries the way others collect coins, but the cavernous Kunsthistorisches Museum is arguably their magnum opus. Two hours will just allow you to scratch the surface, so skip past Egypt and Rome and dive straight into the Old Masters in the first-floor Picture Gallery, where star works like Pieter Brueghel the Elder’s minutely detailed Tower of Babel and the ripe abundance of Giuseppe Arcimboldo’s Summer await.

If contemporary art is more your scene, eschew the above in favour of a romp around the MuseumsQuartier, which has sent the imperial stables cantering into the 21st century. A behemoth in white limestone, the Leopold Museum contains the world’s biggest collection of works by Expressionist Egon Schiele, while the neighbouring dark-granite MUMOK goes in for exhibitions that are more risqué and subversive.

People on Museums Quartier square in Vienna, Austria
Spend the afternoon checking out edgy art at MUMOK. TasfotoNL / Shutterstock

Evening

As Vienna starts to light up, hop aboard tram 1 at Schwedenplatz for a self-guided spin of the monumental 19th-century Ringstrasse boulevard, a stretch of road that was 50 years in the making. Tick off landmarks like the Gothic revival Rathaus and the neoclassical Parlament as you trundle by.

By now it is probably time to get some pre-dinner drinks in, perhaps at the boho-flavoured Kleines Café on Franziskanerplatz, or at Villon, a wine cellar sunk deep below the Innere Stadt. A fine choice for a memorable dinner is Dom Beisl (dombeisl.at), a slick, vaulted bistro tucked down a sidestreet near the cathedral. Thomas Wohlfarter cooks refined interpretations of Austrian classics – you’re guaranteed a terrific schnitzel here.

Even if classical music is not ordinarily your bag, it is unmissable in the city that was once home to Mozart, Strauss, Brahms and Beethoven. Popular performances sell out weeks (sometimes months) ahead, but you could try your luck for last-minute standing room tickets at the opulent Staatsoper or Musikverein, which can be snapped up for around €5 80 minutes before concerts begin.

Day Two

Morning

Start your day admiring the Danube by eating breakfast at Motto am Fluss. Their bio-organic menu and relaxed service comes as a bonus to the terrace views looking across to Kahlenberg hill.

This morning you can take your pick of two palaces. If you’re itching to see the Klimts, you won’t want to miss the baroque beauty of Schloss Belvedere. The Oberes (Upper) and the Unteres (Lower) palaces are linked by a ribbon of gardens, with cascading fountains, mythical beasties and ornamental parterres that were designed by none other than Dominique Girard, a protégé of André Le Nôtre of Versailles fame. With limited time, devote yourself to a two-hour marathon of the Upper Belvedere, where the exquisite grace of art nouveau shimmers in gold-leaf Klimt works like The Kiss (1908), a sensual portrayal of lovers embracing in a field of wildflowers.

Or venture out to the rococo fantasy of a summer palace that is Unesco-listed Schloss Schönbrunn, imagining how the Hapsburgs lived as you saunter past romantic follies, fountains and the Gloriette, with sweeping city views, in the French-style gardens. Some 40 (out of a total 1441) lavish rooms are open to the public, including the white-and-gold mirror room, where a six-year-old Mozart first performed for a rapturous Maria Theresia in 1762.

Schloss Schönbrunn shines in the Vienna sunshine
Take in the lavish surrounds of Unesco-listed Schloss Schönbrunn. martin hollaus / 500px

Afternoon

Lunch is on the hoof at the city’s huge open-air larder, the Naschmarkt, where you’ll find falafel, delis – the excellent Naschmarkt Deli, for instance – seafood stands and cafes among the stalls brimming with fruit and veg, regional wines, olives, spices and more.

After lunch, amble across to the adjacent Freihausviertel, a quaint and creative neighbourhood that is a delight to explore on foot, with its arty cafes, workshops, speciality food shops, galleries and delis. Take a wander and see what you can find, or track down some of our favourites – Henzl’s Ernte for sugars and salts flavoured with home-grown and foraged herbs, Mein Design for fashion by up-and-coming Austrian designers, the Sekt Comptoir for Burgenland sparkling wine, and Näherei Apfel for sewing classes and all things apple.

Evening

If you’re in the mood, take the U1 to Praterstern as the city starts to twinkle for a ride on the Riesenrad Ferris wheel, which starred in the 1949 film The Third Man. It affords fantastic photo-ops of the city spread out at your feet.

Given that it’s your last night, you might want to splurge on dinner somewhere special. Two-Michelin-starred Steirereck im Stadtpark is always faultless. At its helm is chef Heinz Reitbauer, who cooks seasonal ingredients with precision and flair. Less exclusive but nonetheless still stylish is 1st district Tian, which elevates vegetarian cuisine to giddy new heights with an ingredient-driven menu that reveals a signature use of herbs and spices.

For a big last night out, head to Volkgarten ClubDiskothek where you can take your pick of the garden party clubbing area or the 1950s-style pavilion where DJs spin RnB and ’60s groove. But if you just want to take one last, lingering look at Vienna over a cocktail, you can’t beat the glass-walled The Loft on the 18th floor of the Sofitel – it’s more than a view, it’s the entire Austrian capital reduced to postcard format.

This article was first published in October 2014 and updated by Carly Hulls in June 2017.

8 of the coolest celebrity proposal locations around the world

Searching for the perfect backdrop to propose? For some, only a romantic getaway will do, though that can mean different things to different people. Celebrities tend to favour glamorous, far-flung settings to get engaged – but occasionally they like to swap the drama for something a little more cosy and familiar. Here, we count down eight of the most iconic destinations where celebrities have popped the question.

Eva Longoria and Jose Antonio Baston: Dubai

While Eva Longoria and her Jose Antonio Baston were attending the Dubai International Film Festival in 2015, they escaped the concrete jungle for a day with a desert safari.

After the couple enjoyed a camel ride, they settled in for a champagne picnic on outdoor couches strewn with rose petals. The businessman decided to take advantage of the romantic atmosphere and proposed to his girlfriend of two years with a sparkling ruby ring. The newly-engaged couple were only in the city for two days, staying at the beachfront Four Seasons resort, but they clearly made the most of it.

Serena Williams and Alexis Ohanian: Rome

On the day of her first match in the Italian Open in 2015, Serena Williams was sitting down for breakfast in her hotel in Rome when Reddit co-founder Alexis Ohanian took a seat at the table next to her. His company wasn’t exactly welcome, and the tennis legend’s entourage tried to deter him by pretending to see a rat, but Ohanian was unfazed, and she eventually invited him to join their table.

Eighteen months later, he took her back to the same hotel in Italy, the Cavalieri, and proposed at the spot where they first met – with a little plastic rat on the table. The lavish hotel is perched on Monte Mario, the highest hill in Rome, and offers some of the best views of the city’s landmarks. Head here for panoramic vistas and proper old-school Italian glamour.

Kate Middleton and Prince William: Kenya

The now Duchess of Cambridge was unkindly dubbed ‘Waity Katie’ as she patiently held out for nearly 10 years for her prince to propose, but when he got around to it in 2010, he made sure it was worth the wait. He whisked Middleton away on a safari in Kenya, and is said to have proposed in a log cabin on the slopes of Mt Kenya.

The couple reportedly drove up from the Lewa Wildlife Conservancy, where Prince William spent his gap year before university. The two Rutundu cabins are rustic in style and very remote, to ensure no one would spoil the royals’ special moment. It’s an ideal hideaway for couples seeking peace and quiet, where guests can breakfast on the terrace, fish in the lake or take walks in the forest.

Jennifer Lopez and Alex Rodriguez: The Bahamas

Talk about a home-run: back in March, J-Lo and Alex Rodriguez headed to the Bahamas for a luxurious vacation, and while taking a walk on the beach, the former New York Yankees player got down on one knee in front of an idyllic Bahamian sunset. The couple reportedly stayed on Great Cauna Cay in the members-only Baker’s Bay Golf and Ocean Club, an A-lister favourite which includes a golf course, three restaurants, a spa and six miles of white-sand beach.

A lone surfer walks towards the water on the beach at Hanalei Bay, Hawaii.
Sofia Vergara said yes to Joe Manganiello at Hawaii’s Hanalei Bay. Glowing Earth Photography / 500px

Sofia Vergara and Joe Manganiello: Hawaii

Over Christmas in 2014, Joe Manganiello took Sophie Vergara, his girlfriend of two years, to Kauai in Hawaii for the holidays, and booked them into the exclusive St Regis Hotel, now the Princeville Resort.

He reportedly wanted the proposal to be totally private, so he asked Vergara to marry him in their ocean-view suite as the sun set on the glittering Hanalei Bay. To honour her Colombian heritage, the actor memorised a romantic speech in Spanish, including the line “eres mi todo” (you are my everything).

As well as a stunning setting overlooking the shoreline and tropical hills, the hotel boasts a spa, two golf courses, and warm island decor.

Ciara and Russell Wilson: Seychelles

Seattle Seahawks quarterback Russell Wilson went all out with his proposal: he created a game of “travel roulette”, giving Ciara 30 possible destinations around the world, and she ultimately landed on the Seychelles.

On the intimate North Island – a private island resort with five beaches and just 11 villas, where Kate Middleton and Prince William also spent their honeymoon – Wilson popped the question on the secluded Honeymoon Beach, where guests can enjoy private picnics, gaze at the stars or even watch a movie on a sail-screen strung up between two palm trees.

John Stamos and Caitlin McHugh: Disneyland

Actress and model Caitlin McHugh is a massive Disney fan, so John Stamos knew he had to whip up a fairy-tale–worthy proposal for her. He enlisted the help of Disney CEO Bob Iger to cut together a short film of the most romantic Disney and Pixar clips, ending with Sebastian from The Little Mermaid urging Stamos to “just ask the girl”.

The Full House star played it for her at the original Disneyland Park in California, where the two are frequent visitors, but this time they got to stick around after the park closed and run about in Disney onesies.

Rio Ferdinand and Kate Wright: Abu Dhabi

On the last night of their family holiday in Abu Dhabi, the former footballer escorted his girlfriend, Kate Wright, to the helipad on the rooftop of the St Regis hotel, which has 360-degree views of the shimmering skyline.

With the city lights glistening around them, he got down on one knee as his three children looked on, later writing on Instagram: “She said yes. How these 3 kids kept it a secret I’ll never know.” Rio and Kate clearly know how to have a romantic getaway, even with the kids in tow.

Located in the heart of the Corniche, the St Regis is one of Abu Dhabi’s most opulent hotels, and its penthouse suite comes with its own private elevator, spa, gym, library and five-guest cinema.

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In it for the long-haul: why couples who travel together stay together

It’s a fact: travel is sexy. Studies have shown that most people prioritise finding a partner with similar levels of wanderlust, while including a holiday snap in your dating app profile improves your chances of scoring a first date.

The journey doesn’t end there, of course. From the first romantic city getaway to a round-the-world adventure for two, the highs and lows of travelling as a couple can deepen the bond you share with your other half. Here’s how.

Travellers holding hands as they cross a river.
In travel, as in many other areas of life, you’re stronger together. freemixer / Getty Images

You work as a team

Successful couples know how to problem solve and compromise, and there’s no better place to hone those skills than on the road. Planning and booking a trip, navigating an unknown city and coping with unexpected challenges – such as late trains, lost credit cards or even scammers – all require teamwork. The buzz you’ll get from overcoming such obstacles together will no doubt bring you closer and build trust.

Couple’s counsel: Making joint decisions isn’t always easy – particularly if you have different travel styles. If you find yourselves bickering, heed this Vanilla Ice-inspired motto: Stop. Collaborate and listen. If all else fails, you could always consider a rap battle…

A couple eating some street food in a market
What shared passions might you discover as a couple on the road? Carlina Teteris / Getty Images

You experience new things together

You don’t want to grow apart, so why not grow together? Perhaps quite literally, if the sight of tropical flora ends up inspiring you to spruce up your garden when you return home. Whether your tummies rumble in unison at the sight of unusual street snacks or you lock eyes and share a gleeful smile when you spot an exotic bird in the wild, the joint encounters and learning opportunities globetrotting gives you will help foster collective interests that will only make your connection stronger.

Couple’s counsel: Take your new worldly wisdom home with you: learn to cook your favourite Thai dish and host a dinner party for friends; hang that Moroccan mirror you haggled so hard over in your love nest; or enrol on a Spanish language course.

You enjoy a vital break from routine

Binge-watching Narcos in your PJs and ordering a biryani may be the norm for long-term twosomes, but wouldn’t you rather get a taste of the real Colombia or India instead? Travel breaks your everyday routine, injecting a little spontaneity back into your relationship in the process.

Couple’s counsel: While away you may reflect on your life at home and decide to make some changes that will benefit you both, such as taking more mini-breaks, minimising screen time or taking up a new hobby. If a trip inspires you to shake things up, make a pact and stick to it – it’s easy to fall back into old habits once you return.

Two men sleeping in a car
Empathy goes a long way when your partner hits a low point. Cavan Images / Getty Images

You see each other at your worst

Hangry. Stressed. Sick. Chances are you’ll both be all of these at some point during your travels. If your partner’s suffering, you’ll have to bear the brunt of each and every grumble – with the understanding that sooner or later, the situation will be reversed. If the pair of you are worse for wear simultaneously, prepare to fight over the last chip, or worse, the toilet bowl.

Couple’s counsel: Feeling vulnerable so far from home means you’ll need each other now more than ever. Have your loved one’s back and take the lead when they’re low. You’d be amazed what a quick nap and a bite to eat can cure.

Couple walking with Manhattan skyline in the background
Can travel put the va-va-voom back in your relationship? We think so. Monkeybusinessimages / Getty Images

You see each other at your best

Travel puts a twinkle in your eye and a spring in your step. When you see the world as a couple, you associate that feel-good factor with each other. Combine this with your sweetheart’s sun-kissed glow and your new-found carefree attitude and you’ll be eyeing each other up like a pair of love-struck teenagers.

Couple’s counsel: Now is the time to be present. You will never again be as young as you are in this moment (a motivational maxim if ever there was one), nor will you always be as happy. Make the most of it.

Couple swimming in a lake with mountains in the background
Travel companions reveal their true selves to each other, quirks and all. Jacob Staedler / Getty Images

You get to know each other’s quirks

There’s a lot you can glean about a person by observing their behaviour as they travel. Packing techniques (or lack thereof), aeroplane etiquette and breakfast buffet habits can all highlight character traits you were, until now, blissfully unaware of. Fortunate couples may find their foibles are completely in sync – or at least complementary – while others will have to work out how to marry one’s aptitude for losing their passport with another’s fear of missing a flight.

Couple’s counsel: Patience is key here and you’ll need to take the rough with the smooth. Remember: your partner isn’t the only one with flaws.

Two friends standing by campfire at night while camping in Alabama Hills Recreation Area, Lone Pine, California, USA.
You’ll have time to put the world to rights together, which may lead to a deeper level of understanding. Aurora Open / Getty Images

You gain new, shared perspectives

Travel can stretch time. Suddenly you have hours, days or weeks to discuss anything and everything, from distant childhood memories to global politics. With a deeper understanding of each other’s viewpoints, a new, shared outlook may arise (eg if we can survive a 19-hour bus ride through rural China, we can survive anything) and vague plans for the future become thought-out, achievable goals.

Couple’s counsel: While travel can lead to many aligned perspectives, it may also unearth differences of opinion you never knew existed. Use the time you have on the road to discuss important issues in a stress-free environment and resolve recurring niggles.

Two women looking down on Halong Bay, Vietnam
Travelling as a twosome is a surefire way to make memories that last. Gaile Juknyte / Getty Images

You create memories that last a lifetime

You don’t need to traverse the globe to make wonderful memories, but it helps. Once you’ve tackled the Trans-Siberian, cruised along the Amazon and road-tripped Route 66 hand-in-hand, you’ll have plenty of glorious experiences to reminisce over in your old age – and anecdotes aplenty with which to bore the grandkids.

Couple’s counsel: Keep a journal during your travels, and when you’re back, create a scrapbook and organise and print special photos. When you’re old and grey these visual prompts will spark cherished memories of adventure and romance – or even inspire you to take an anniversary trip.

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