Romance runs rich through Italy’s veins, with icons of amore to melt the hardest heart. But the most famous sight isn’t always the most swoon-worthy; find the real romance of Italy with a hot date at one of these alternative picks where, chances are, there’ll be fewer people to encroach on your special moment.
Romance icon: Verona’s romance icon is undoubtedly Juliet’s balcony. The dainty stone balcony at the 14th-century Casa di Giulietta is a magnet for lovers (and Shakespeare fans). Visiting romantics scrawl heart-rending graffiti in the charming courtyard and smooch on the balcony with their own Romeos and/or Juliets. It’s all rather lovely, which means tourists generally remain untroubled by the lack of any connection between the fictional lovers and the Veronese noble families who actually lived here.
The alternative: If literature’s star-crossed lovers don’t inspire, spend a balmy evening at Verona’s 1st-century Roman arena. Find a space for two on the steep stone steps, and the evening is yours to sip wine, be dazzled by on-stage theatrics, and gaze at a starry sky. Take snacks, a blanket and most essentially, a pillow (those stone steps have seriously bum-numbing qualities). For summer operas and ballets, the best seats in the house go for around €300, but thrifty lovers can snap up tickets to sit on the stone steps from as little as €20.
Romance icon: Climbing aboard one of Venice’s iconic gondolas to drift around the city’s canals, to the tune of a singing gondolier, is the holy grail of Italy’s romantic experiences. That is, until you see the price tag. There’s no doubting the beauty of Venice from the water, but the pleasure doesn’t come cheap (and yes, they do charge extra for the singing).
The alternative: a bicycle made for two. Flee the flocks of visitors in central Venice with a summer ferry excursion to The Lido. With a day’s bicycle hire, you and your date can pedal around the shady streets and catch some R&R away from Venice’s manic center. Lido on Bike will set you up with the most kitsch date there is – a two-seater tandem bike.
Romance icon: Throw one coin in the Trevi Fountain, and you’ll return to Rome some day. Throw in two, and you’ll marry an Italian. Throw in more than that and, well, desperate is not a good look. Lovers line up to get a selfie next to this jaw-dropping edifice, but crowds and coin-hurling visitors don’t make for a dream date.
The alternative: Visit the dome of St Peter’s Basilica. Start early for a climb to the top of Vatican City’s gigantic dome (but spare yourself the blisters and take the lift part-way). If you’re there for opening time, you’ll likely have a hazy view of Vatican City all to yourselves, and ample space for a quick smooch.
Romance icon: With the muscular form of Michelangelo’s David setting hearts a-flutter outside the Galleria dell’Accademia in Florence, and comely Renaissance maidens in every gallery, it’s the artistic heart of Florence that plucks at the heart strings. And nowhere elicits lovelorn sighs more than the Galleria degli Uffizi, with emblems of love like Botticelli’s The Birth of Venus gracing its walls. But museum fatigue from the brain-boggling volume of art, not to mention bumping elbows with hordes of other visitors, can sap that lovin’ feeling.
The alternative: The Giardino di Boboli, a short walk from the Uffizi, are a perfect lovers’ escape, and the further you wander into the gardens, the more secluded spaces you’ll find. Seek out a manicured corner of Florence’s most beautiful green space, breathe in the scent of citrus trees, and sigh among statues of bathing nymphs.
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Article first published in July 2012, and last updated in October 2020
For many of us, the day we get married is one of the most important days of our lives, with the day we get engaged not far behind. And while a proposal is pretty memorable wherever it happens, what better feeling than popping the question or being proposed to on the trip of a lifetime? From a hotel room in Dublin to a waterfall in Panama and a shark tank in Boston, 10 loved-up Lonely Planet staffers share their stories of putting a ring on it on the road.
Dustin pops the question next to the
New Orleans
It was Memorial Day Weekend in 2017. I organized a big group vacation of close friends to New Orleans since over the years it had become one of Liz’s favorite destinations. Upon arriving at our Airbnb we celebrated with a shrimp boil and a few bottles of wine for this “homecoming” of our scattered friend group. Late that next morning, we all set out for a picnic at Audubon Park right by the “Tree of Life”. It’s not a location you can reserve, so luck was on my side when no one was there. While taking a group photo, my best friend handed me the ring behind her back. Everyone left the frame so I could get a photo with Liz. After I heard the first click, I got on one knee and popped the question.
It was February in Dublin, so it was raining. My now-husband (spoiler?) was determined to see out his romantic picnic plan, so we went on a mission to the amazing food hall at Fallon & Byrne to stock up on all things fancy. Back in our hotel room, we spread our feast out across the bed and munched away. It wasn’t beautiful St Stephen’s Green as planned, but it was our own private bit of Dublin, and when he asked if I’d marry him, I knew saying yes meant a lifetime of making the most of every situation, rain or shine.
My husband is a notorious planner and loves to pull off big surprises. He knew he wanted to propose in Hawaii because it’s where my parents met and were married. So for our two-year dating anniversary, we went to Maui, which seems obvious but that’s exactly why I didn’t expect it. The other reason? When we arrived he called to confirm our reservation at Mama’s Fish House but they didn’t have it – and he would never miss a detail like that! Since I didn’t expect a proposal, I challenged his plans which included getting to the restaurant two hours before the last-minute reservation he managed to secure. As he was hurriedly setting up his GoPro on the restaurant’s private beach, it started pouring. He nearly ditched his whole plan until a huge rainbow appeared and I convinced him we should take a photo – and that’s when he did it.
Having marked 10 years together, my partner and I had received quite a lot of input from well-meaning relatives with all the reasons we should be getting married. We rebuffed those comments and went off to Florence to get our fix of bistecca alla Fiorentina and Renaissance architecture. So, as we were standing at the Basilica di San Miniato al Monte enjoying the stunner of a view towards the duomo, I was a little surprised when my partner asked me to marry him. We strolled back down the hill, stopped for a celebratory glass of Prosecco and then chose the ring at one of the jewellers on the Ponte Vecchio.
We were travelling around the South Island in a campervan almost two weeks into our adventure, and as I found out later, my now-husband was waiting until he found the perfect place to propose. We were driving along the west coast looking for somewhere to stop for lunch and we saw a picnic sign. We followed it along a tree-lined road and emerged alongside gorgeous Lake Mahinapua, with its breathtaking mountain views. It felt like we were the only two people in the world. We ate, then decided to go for a swim. As we got out of the lake he dropped down on one knee, taking me completely by surprise. The boy did good.
It was Shark Week 2016. Nothing says romance like Shark Week, so I took my then-girlfriend to the New England Aquarium. It has a central cylinder filled with sharks running the height of the building, punctuated with small alcoves. We found an empty alcove and sat watching the sharks swim by. I dropped down on one knee. She thought that I was falling, so she grabbed me by the arm and hovered me over the ground. I told her to put me down, and plopped down on to the floor on one knee and popped the question. Her response? “Are you trying to be romantic?” That’s when I learned that asking someone to marry you in front of a shark tank during Shark Week is NOT romantic. She said yes anyway.
In Budapest for my birthday, my now-husband suggested I find somewhere fancy for dinner. He emailed the restaurant to tell them he’d be proposing and ask for their help. It was all planned out, but the restaurant failed to do any of the things they’d agreed. Thinking on his feet, he started teasing me about turning 30 and still being unmarried. I replied, “Whose fault is that then?” He pulled a ring from his pocket, saying “Well, you won’t make 31”. No “Will you marry me?”, or bended knees. Very him, and much better than his showy planned proposal.
I had six weeks to propose to my partner in the wilds of Central America. But whenever I came close, a group of singing hikers showed up… or fruit-throwing howler monkeys suggested we move along. Then, enter the Pipeline Trail in Boquete: we crossed small bridges, ate caramelised peanuts under a 1000-year-old Mexican elm, and the venomous fer-de-lance snake on the trail waved us through with a nod – THE sign! When we reached the waterfall, there was nobody else around. So, I fashioned a ring from a vine and my question was received with laughter, tears and eventually, “Si por favor”.
My then-girlfriend and I are very keen hill walkers and had spent Valentine’s Day morning climbing Haystacks, a peak above Buttermere in the Lake District. After a pub lunch, I suggested another gentler walk at Tarn Hows, the renowned beauty spot in the southern lakes. Much grumbling from my wife-to-be as we set off on a circular walk around the more or less deserted tarn. At the far end were a trig point and bench from where I suggested we enjoy the spectacular view of the tarn as the sun began to set on the snow-capped hills around us. More grumbling about tired legs etc from my lovely lady as she struggled up the final slope. I went down on bended knee at the bench producing the ring, which elicited the memorable response: “Oh God, yes, now can we go and have a cup of tea?” That was 32 years ago.
I always knew I was going to propose while on a holiday in Canada, but I wasn’t fully prepared as I hadn’t yet purchased an engagement ring. A number of times throughout our holiday I thought “This is the right time and place to propose” but, alas, the dramatic sites I’d chosen to pop the question, such as Niagara Falls, were far too crowded for such an important occasion. In the end, it was on a foray to the ski slopes of Grouse Mountain in Vancouver where the opportunity arose. After skiing for the day, we strolled to the deck of the mountain-top restaurant to watch the sun set over the city. As the last of the crowd left to head back to town, I popped the question, stuttering nervously that I hadn’t had the confidence to choose a ring she’d like. Thankfully, Bec answered in the affirmative, though it wasn’t until the following day that I made a phone call to Australia to seek approval from her father. It was then that we began the hunt for a ring.
Glenn van der Knijff, Production Controller
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On a gloriously sunny day in May last year, thousands of royal fans poured into Windsor to celebrate the wedding of Prince Harry and Meghan Markle. As the couple mark their one-year anniversary this weekend, here’s how you can walk in the footsteps of the monarchy and revel in the pomp, pageantry and architectural splendour of their historic royal wedding venues.
Windsor Castle, the site of two royal weddings in 2017
The world’s largest and oldest continuously occupied castle played host to two royal weddings last year: as well as Harry and Meghan, Princess Eugenie and Jack Brooksbank tied the knot here in October. Both ceremonies took place in St George’s Chapel, a striking example of Gothic architecture that dates back to 1475. This is also where Prince Charles and Camilla Parker Bowles held a prayer service to commemorate their civil wedding in 2005, and it is the final resting place of King Henry VIII and Jane Seymour.
Windsor is accessible by train — the journey from London Waterloo to Windsor & Eton Riverside takes just under an hour, and the castle is a short walk from the station. To save yourself time and money, buy your train ticket online (starting from £11 return). You can book your tickets for Windsor Castle in advance, too (adults £22.50). The castle is open every day — from 10am-5pm during the summer — and it tends to be quieter after midday, giving you more space to explore the 11th-century castle, chapel and state apartments.
Frogmore House, a scenic setting for Harry and Meghan’s engagement portraits
Harry and Meghan chose to have their evening wedding reception at Frogmore House, which was also the site of their glamorous engagement portraits. The couple recently moved to Frogmore Cottage, their new home on the grounds of the estate, with baby Archie, and while their private residence is closed to the public, visitors are welcome to peruse the 35-acre gardens and 17th century house — a frequent royal retreat just 10 mins’ drive from Windsor — for three days a year. But move fast: this year’s open days are May 28-30, with proceeds donated to the National Garden Scheme, British Heart Foundation and the National Rheumatoid Arthritis Society (from £7). Groups of 15 or more can also book tours during the month of August.
Westminster Abbey, the most storied royal wedding venue
In 2011, Prince William and Kate Middleton took their vows in this immense Gothic church in front of 2200 guests and a television audience of nearly 2 billion people worldwide. You can see their marriage licence, and much more, in the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee Galleries. William and Kate were the latest in a long line of royal couples to marry here — 16 in total, including the flashy ’80s nuptials of Prince Andrew and Sarah Ferguson, the lavish union of Princess Margaret and Antony Armstrong-Jones, and the more traditional ceremonies of Queen and Prince Philip, and the Queen Mother and King George.
Westminster Abbey has also been the setting for every coronation since 1066 and the burial place of more than 3000 royals, statesmen, soldiers and poets. With all that rich history — not to mention a new iPad-designed stained glass window by David Hockney — it’s no surprise that the Abbey is one of London’s most popular attractions, drawing 1.5m visitors annually. It can be easily reached by bus, rail or Tube, and is open Monday to Saturday; but you can skip the queues by booking online (adults £21) and taking advantage of the late opening on Wednesdays (from 4.30-6pm).
St Paul’s Cathedral, host of the ‘wedding of 20th century’
The 1981 union of Prince Charles and Diana Spencer was billed as the wedding of the century, and so great was the interest in the couple that their ceremony had to be held in a venue even larger than the colossal Westminster Abbey. St Paul’s Cathedral, which can accommodate 3500 guests, was the site where Diana emerged from her carriage with that unforgettable 25-foot train.
You can enjoy the spectacular dome of Christopher Wren’s architectural masterpiece — the fourth cathedral to have stood on the site in its 1400-year history — from Monday to Saturday (on Sundays, it is only open for worship), and it is served by multiple public transport routes. Save money by booking online (adults £17) and make the most of the unusually early 8.30am opening to beat the crowds and experience the full effect of the cathedral’s famous acoustics.
St James’s Palace, where Queen Victoria popularised the white wedding dress
Royal protocol dictated that no man could propose to a reigning monarch, so Queen Victoria proposed to her great love Prince Albert, and in 1840, the two married at the Chapel Royal in St James’s Palace. And while we may consider Kate and Meghan the most powerful fashion influencers, it was the 20-year-old Victoria who popularised the tradition of brides wearing white after her own delicate lace gown. St James’s Palace was the established royal residence for 300 years, until Queen Victoria ascended the throne and moved to Buckingham Palace. The Queen’s Guard, however, remained at St James’s Palace, and today it is one of the locations where you can see the Changing of the Guard (head to St James’s Palace for 10am to watch the soldiers begin their march). The palace is now the home of Princesses Anne and Beatrice, while Clarence House, the official London base of Prince Charles and Camilla, is next door. Built in 1531 by Henry VII in red-brick Tudor style, it was also the venue for Prince George’s christening in 2013. St James’s Palace is not open to the public, but visitors can check out the Chapel Royal by attending one of the weekly services, which take place every Sunday morning at 8.30am and 11.15am, except during August and September.
With its gender-fluid fashion scene and colourful LGBT culture – not to mention rumoured gay royals of yesteryear – Stockholm is a vibrant, open and welcoming city.
Sweden is known for its progressive values and they’re on clear display throughout its capital, where inclusivity permeates through hotels, restaurants, bars and fashion. Plus, Stockholm hosts the biggest Pride celebration in Scandinavia and it’s not to be missed.
Here’s our guide for visitors to Stockholm Pride, with top tips on the best LGBT-friendly places to stay and things to do to make the most of a trip to the city and its festival.
The skinny on Stockholm Pride
This year, Stockholm (27 July–5 August 2018) is co-hosting EuroPride together with Gothenburg, (14 August–19 August 2018). Hundreds of activities and events will take place in museums, clubs and public spaces across the city, with a programme of music, art, theatre and seminars culminating in the EuroPride parade on Saturday 4 August.
Floating bar-restaurant Mälarpaviljongen will be putting on different events throughout the week, including DJ sessions, and Taverna Brillo will be hosting a party on the day of the parade.
When you’re not at Pride events, there are plenty of fab experiences on offer in Sweden’s capital. Start with a walk through Stockholm’s Old Town – it’s the best way to appreciate the beauty and character of the city. Meander through its cobbled streets, where you’ll find lots of little cafes and independent shops.
Also located in the Old Town is Kungliga Slottet (the Royal Palace), one of the largest palaces in Europe and the official residence of the King of Sweden, the longest reigning Swedish monarch. Here you can visit the silver throne belonging to the famously unconventional 17th-century Queen Kristina, who is rumoured to have been a lesbian, as well as learn about King Gustav III, who brought grand culture and opera to Stockholm, and who is also rumoured to have been gay. In fact, the LGBT Pride parade used to stop at his statue to lay a floral wreath.
Vasamuseet, Sweden’s most-visited museum, is worth checking out to see the world’s only complete 17th-century ship in all its ill-fated glory (it sank on its maiden voyage), while Fotografiska houses contemporary photography exhibitions from the likes of the renowned German photographer Ellen von Unwerth. And if you’re a fan of ABBA – and even if you’re not – a trip to ABBA The Museum is a lot of fun, with interactive digital features such as the chance to sing and dance with a hologram of the band themselves! Meanwhile, if you’re hoping to take away some Swedish style, the Stockholm fashion district Bibliotekstan is where you’ll find likes of Hope and Acne Studios.
If you want to enjoy a drink or two, then the LGBT-friendly floating bar Mälarpaviljongen has great views and may be just what you’re after. You can also say ‘yes way to rosé’, as the bar makes a donation to the Rainbow Fund with every purchase. To see another side to Stockholm, head to Södra Teatern, an ornate 19th-century theatre-turned-vegetarian-restaurant-and-club. Head to the rooftop Champagnebaren for expansive views of the city. Alternatively, if you’re looking to dance the night away, Club King Kong has rooms playing different of genres of music to suit a variety of tastes.
After all the Pride events and sightseeing, you’ll likely have built up a good appetite for the culinary delights that Stockholm has to offer. The breakfast buffet at Hotel Diplomat makes all others pale in comparison; you can even make your own waffles here. If you like a view with your fresh and seasonal food, then the Hotel Skeppsholmen, located on the island of the same name, is a must for brunch or lunch, especially if you want to try traditional Swedish meatballs.
If you’re a coffee fan, then pop along to Johan & Nyström, where they roast their own beans; you’ll have the choice of ordering your coffee in a coffee press, Chemex or AeroPress. They also have great pastries and vegetarian options. POP HOUSE Food & Bar is a fun spot to dine at before or after you check out the ABBA museum and is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Their bistro menu has European influences.
Trendy Taverna Brillo is a vibrant venue. Open from early morning to late evening, it has unique decor and is a favourite with the locals – expect excellent service – and there’s sometimes a live DJ. The cuisine is Italian-inspired with a Swedish twist, with dishes such as a pizza with truffle, honey, mushrooms and Swedish cheese. If you’d like a more intimate ambiance, then Green Queen is a lunch and dinner spot serving up delicious plant-based street food. The menu offers great comfort food from vegan sloppy joes to chickpea burgers, and the food certainly isn’t lacking in flavour.
Where to stay
Stockholm is not short of quality LGBT-friendly hotels with excellent customer service. Hotel Rival, owned by ABBA’s Benny Andersson, is a small, plush boutique hotel located in the Södermalm area of the city. The breakfast buffet is included in the room rate and the deluxe rooms have quaint balconies overlooking the square. The movie Mamma Mia! even previewed in the hotel’s theatre with an audience including ABBA and the cast of the film.
If you’d rather stay closer to the centre of Stockholm, then luxurious Hotel Diplomat is a great choice. This opulent hotel has unique features such as a fun anitique lift that can just about fit two people with suitcases – you have to make sure you shut the door for it to work. Ask for a room with views over the small bay of Nybroviken.
If quirky Scandinavian style is more your scene, then boutique hotel Hobo may be just what you’re looking for, with its neon signs, numerous hanging plants and modern minimalist design.
For more LGBT-friendly recommendations, try Stockholm LGBT; the site features businesses and organisations committed to upholding Stockholm’s reputation as one of the most diverse and inclusive cities in the world.
We’ve all been there: that sense of yearning for more at the end of a brilliant romantic novel. One way of scratching the itch is by organising a trip for you and your amour to the destinations in which your favourite fiction is set – walk where your hero or heroine has walked or talked or eaten or fallen head-over-Heathcliff in love. Here’s our list of the best breaks based on the greatest literary romances.
While Gone with the Wind is perhaps best known as a silver-screen classic, it started as a Pulitzer-Prize-winning book in 1936. To some, it remains an integral part of Atlanta’s storied history and among the best of American romance fiction.
As such, there are plenty of well-organised activities for those looking to relive Scarlett and Rhett’s life during the American Civil War and Reconstruction Era (1860s and ’70s). Start with a drive out to Margaret Mitchell Memorial Park, where you’ll find Stately Oaks, a Greek Revival antebellum house reminiscent of Tara, Scarlett’s plantation home.
If you don’t mind joining a group – “Frankly my dear…” – check out the Margaret Mitchell Tour, which is hosted by ‘Margaret’ herself and visits the author’s house and the Gone With the Wind Museum, among other stops.
Some think of Leo Tolstoy’s romantic tragedy as the world’s greatest novel. His kaleidoscopic depiction of a lavish Tsarist Russia will have you trawling Skyscanner for flights to St Petersburg in no time.
It might not be a directly mentioned in the book, but the formidable Winter Palace – now part of the State Hermitage Museum – does a good job representing the opulence of Anna’s milieu. Start early and meander through its myriad reception halls and gilt chambers, taking in the world-class art collection.
On day two, head for the Alexander Nevsky Monastery. Built by the city’s founder Peter the Great, this working monastery is one of the city’s oldest buildings. Take a stroll through its famous graveyard and think of Anna praying for forgiveness within!
OK, so Jane Austen’s most famous work is not actually based in Bath. But Northanger Abbey and Persuasion were – as was Jane herself from 1801 to 1806, during its spa-town heyday. “Oh! Who can ever be tired of Bath?” asks Catherine Morland, the heroine of Northanger Abbey.
A Unesco World Heritage City, Bath is a paean to Regency England and the Georgian architecture that shaped it. Start off with a romantic promenade along the Royal Crescent, dropping into No 1 Royal Crescent for a taste of the era’s resplendent interiors.
Then wend your way along the Royal Avenue into town and onto the Jane Austen Centre for your fill of tales and trivia. Take tea, as Elizabeth Bennet and Mr Darcy might have done, at the Pump Room, while listening to live classical music. Awfully romantic.
Nicholas Sparks’ ’90s tearjerker is largely based in and around North Carolina’s New Bern. Set between the Trent and Neuse rivers and close to the coast, this charming little city has the hallmarks of a romantic-break destination.
It’s small enough to walk around, making visiting a string of Notebook landmarks relatively easy. Check out the Walk to Remember tour, which includes the Centenary Methodist Church (where the couple regularly sit on a bench), the characterful Masonic Theater and the Alfred Cunningham Bridge.
In the book, Noah is restoring an old antebellum house and New Bern has plenty of B&Bs that fit that description on the waterfront. At one point, he and Allie go kayaking – there are similarly romantic tours close to the city.
Time travel, adventure, historical intrigue: the Outlander series is one of the most exciting in our line-up and its setting in the Scottish Highlands certainly helps ramp up the romance.
Rural Inverness-shire is particularly prominent in the books, inspiring many of its fictional locations. A walk around Clava Cairns – a beautiful Bronze Age burial site – will help transport you and your lover back in time, as Claire did (from 1945 to 1743) to the fictional Craigh Na Dun.
Pay your respects to clan Fraser at nearby Culloden Battlefield, the exact spot where Claire and Frank visit on their second honeymoon and Jamie and Claire say their tearful goodbyes.
While the first scenes of Daphne du Maurier’s Gothic classic are set in the super-chic environs of Monte Carlo, it’s not long before the heroine moves with her new husband, Maxim de Winter, to the wilds of Gribbin Head, Cornwall, where she lives in the fictional country house of Manderley.
Its inspiration, Menabilly House, can’t be visited, but the National Trust’s Gribbin Head Walk nearby takes you through picturesque Fowey, around to Polridmouth Cove and up onto Gribbin Head – all of which feature regularly in the book.
The museum in Fowey has a permanent collection of du Maurier paraphernalia. Across the River Fowey is chocolate-box Bodinnick. The author lived there in a house called Ferryside, where her son still lives today.
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Classy, cultural Bath in southwest England is famous for its exquisite architecture and Bridgerton backdrops.
While the Roman Baths and Georgian Royal Crescent are must-see sights, there’s also a cool, contemporary city to explore. True, the city can be expensive. But avoiding peak times brings accommodation prices down. Add superb shops, arts and music venues and some surprising outdoor activities, and you have an appealing city break for couples and friends.
Tour Bridgerton filming locations
When it premiered in late 2020, Bridgerton quickly became Netflix’s biggest-ever series. A record 82 million households watched in the first month. Set in Regency London, the show was filmed extensively in Bath and city buildings are clearly identifiable behind the action.
The Visit Bath website lists the locations so you can do a self-guided tour taking in Lady Danbury’s mansion, the home of the Featheringtons and the Assembly Rooms, the settings for those lavish balls. Or book a tour with BritMovie Tours for an anecdote-filled, two-hour guided promenade around Bath’s Bridgerton locations – spiced with scandal, naturally.
Soak like a Roman in a rooftop pool
Bath was born of geothermal springs which flow from the earth at a toasty 46°C (114ºF). Those arch lovers of luxury, the Romans, spotted their potential and built a state of the art bathhouse. Almost two centuries later, the Thermae Bath Spa means you too can blissfully float in mineral-rich waters.
The complex has massage jets, whirlpools, an ice chamber and steam rooms. But the big draw is the open-air, rooftop pool. Schedule an evening session, and you could be soaking under the stars with views of illuminated rooftops as the steam rises all around.
Although the Roman Baths are undeniably a tourist attraction, they’re also the key to unlocking both Bath’s historic narrative and the city you see today. The Romans built the sumptuous bathing complex in 70AD and today the cluster of atmospheric pools, courtyards and exhibits are brought vividly to life by projections, soundscapes and CGI displays.
The baths are beside a temple to the healing goddess Sulis-Minerva. It’s this connection between the geothermal waters and health that has helped the city flourish and has funded grand building projects – from the Roman era to the spa town and tourist hotspot it is today.
Book tickets online and aim for a slot first thing in the morning. Or check the baths’ What’s On page for special events like T’ai Chi on the Terrace overlooking the Great Bath.
Delight in the Royal Crescent
An exquisite semicircle of grand honey-colored homes, Bath’s Royal Crescent is another of the city’s can’t-miss sights. The terrace of 30 houses sweeps for 150 meters around a manicured lawn and was built between 1767 and 1775.
This gorgeous place inevitably featured as a backdrop in Bridgerton. One of the houses, the museum No 1 Royal Crescent, appeared as the Featheringtons’ home. Book a visit to see lavish Georgian furnishings, and the pots and pans of the servants’ quarters. After a June 2021 reopening, the story of the house and its residents has been brought to life by new digital projections and soundscapes.
After visiting the Royal Crescent, one of Bath’s big draws, many visitors take in the Circus en route from the city center as a bit of a sideshow. This means they miss an intriguing insight into the city’s past. A ring of 33 graceful townhouses split into three semicircular terraces, the Circus features stonework with beautiful emblems and symbols.
A short stroll away, down Gay St and back along Royal Ave, sits one of Bath’s unsung sights. The Georgian Garden is set behind No 4 The Circus. The compact space has been restored to resemble a typical town garden dating from around 1760. Complete with authentic plants and a copy of an elegant 18th-century garden seat, the space provides a rare glimpse into life behind Bath’s grand Georgian facades.
Book a Reading Spa
Novelist Jane Austen lived in Bath in the early 1800s. Mary Shelley wrote much of Frankenstein while in the city. So what better to do in a geothermal town awash with literary links than indulge in a Reading Spa? Run by the beautiful bookshop Mr B’s Emporium, these one-off experiences allow you to sit down with a bibliotherapist over coffee and cake to discuss what you love to read. They then scour the shelves for armfuls of books to suit your tastes. All you have to do is decide which to take home.
Unfortunately, there’s a big backlog for in-person sessions. Mr B’s bespoke reading subscriptions – where a dedicated bookseller selects a book for you each month – are a good alternative while you wait.
Clamber up Bath Abbey’s tower
Bath’s famously fabulous architecture has visitors tracing trails from the Roman Baths to the Georgian Royal Crescent. But the best way to see these exquisite buildings initially is to actually look down on them from the roof of Bath Abbey.
During the medieval abbey’s Tower Tours, you’ll climb 212 steps, navigate a stone spiral staircase, weave past bell ropes and emerge onto the roof for panoramic views. From here, the city’s architecture and street plan appears like a giant animated map.
Touring all that gorgeous architecture can leave you gasping for a pint. Handily Bath is blessed with some brilliant, beautiful pubs, including locals’ favorite, the Bell Inn. This ethical, lively, live-music pub is owned by the customers – around 500 of them bought it in 2013.
The inn is a living-wage employer and is part of the Musicians’ Union Fair Play Venue Scheme, which helps performers get a fair deal. The Bell is also home to seven real ales, bar billiards, a real fire and live music sessions three times a week spanning jazz, blues, Cajun and folk.
Cycle through a musical, mile-long tunnel
In a city of splendid sights, the idea of cycling through a tunnel might seem odd. But Bath’s Two Tunnels Greenway is a unique cycling experience. It runs from East Twerton, east of the city center, to Midford, 3.8 miles to the south.
After views of the Royal Crescent, riders enter the Combe Down Tunnel. At 1672 meters – or a little over a mile – this subterranean stretch is the longest traffic-free cycling tunnel in Europe. It’s also packed with interactive sound and light installations. Your movement through Passage, an installation by United Visual Artists and the composer Mira Calix, triggers audio-visual displays set in 20 separate alcoves. It’s an unforgettable ride.
Hire a row boat
If visitors stray from Bath’s streets, they probably hop on a boat trip from Pulteney Bridge. But a more atmospheric way to explore is by walking a mile north east of the city center to hire your own craft from the Bath Boating Station.
This Victorian boathouse hires out vintage wooden rowing boats, Canadian canoes and punts. You then get to propel yourself along some 2 miles of river, looking out for birds like kingfishers, herons and moorhens en route to the Bathampton Mill pub.
Make your own bauble
Bath Aqua Glass specializes in making aquamarine artworks using techniques that haven’t changed much since Roman times – many of the pieces echo styles of the era. Most visitors spot the shop near Bath Abbey. But if you walk 10 minutes north to the outlet on Walcot St, you can watch the artisan glassblowers at work.
The doors to the workshop are often open to disperse the heat. But if you visit on Friday or Saturday you can head inside for a closer look. Or you can book activities including choosing the colors for a personalized bauble, crafting your own glass artworks, or hiring a glassblower for the day.
Enjoy superb shopping
Bath’s shops are some of the best in the west. High-quality independent stores line the narrow lanes just north of Bath Abbey, Milsom St is good for upmarket fashion, while the SouthGate shopping center has all the high street brands.
Bookworms love Mr B’s Emporium and Topping & Co – the latter has rolling library ladders and free pots of coffee. Walcot St, the city’s self-styled Artisan Quarter, has the Bath Aqua Glass outlet, the workshop and store of renowned weaver Katherine Fraser, and the fabulously pungent Fine Cheese Co shop and cafe.
In a city rich in history, it’s fitting that one of its independent movie spaces is historic too. The Little Theatre Cinema was built by community theater pioneers in 1935, primarily to screen newsreels and documentaries.
Since then it has added a second screen, and it now focuses on art house films and foreign language flicks. It also holds special autism-, toddler-, child- and dementia-friendly screenings, and it still has an art deco feel.
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Travel is supposed to be filled with good surprises — unexpected new tastes, sights, and sounds that delight and inspire us.
But there’s one particular kind of surprise on the rise across the United States that no traveler wants: unexpected ‘resort fees’ at hotels that can range from $25 to $100 or more (£20.29 to £81.15; €22.76 to €91.05). Unfortunately, the nasty surprise often occurs at the check-in counter or, even worse, at the end of a stay when a final bill is presented.
The good news is, awareness of the unpopular resort fee is on the rise. Online booking companies are letting hotel chains know that hidden fees such as the resort fee are potentially deceptive and harmful to travelers. Attorneys General of Nebraska and the District of Columbia filed suit against major hotel chains for advertising room rates that do factor in the resort fee. There are also several steps every traveler can take to minimize, if not always eliminate, the sting of the fee.
The semi-official definition of a resort fee (sometimes referred to as a ‘destination fee’ or an ‘urban fee’) is an additional charge for amenities that, at least in theory, go above and beyond the basic hotel experience. Under that definition, you might presume that a resort fee would apply to you only if you planned to, say, avail yourself of a property’s golf course, boating equipment, extensive concierge services, airport shuttle, and other ‘extras.’ But, in practice, many hotels claim that the fee goes toward an extensive list of amenities that most travelers might assume are already included in the nightly room rate: access to a swimming pool and pool towels, wi-fi, daily newspaper, local telephone calls, access to a fitness center, access to a business center and fax machine, self-parking, lobby snacks such as cookies or afternoon appetizers, and even access to the beach at some seaside properties.
The most frustrating thing for anyone presented with a resort fee at check-in or check-out is that the fee is often not made clear to travelers when they book a hotel room, including on major booking sites, hotel-chain sites, independent hotel sites, and over-the-phone booking. It’s entirely possible for a traveler to book a room at a rate of, say, $150/night (£121.73; €136.58), and presume that, with the addition of local sales taxes and possible tourism taxes, their stay could set them back in the neighborhood of $175 (£142.02; €159.34). But when that traveler arrives at the check-in counter and asks what her estimated bill will look like, she finds that it’s well over $200 (£162.31; €182.10). Worse, if that traveler doesn’t bother to ask at check-in, she’ll discover the resort fee at check-out (and, in cases of automated check-out, a traveler may not even notice the fee until she arrives home).
Does your hotel charge a resort fee?
How to protect oneself from the nasty surprise of an unexpected resort fee? Know before you go: There are a number of ways travelers can educate themselves in advance of booking a room.
Start with ResortFeeChecker.com, which can give you an idea of that hotels are known for charging resort fees, and give you a sense of what you might expect to pay. Then take a close look at a property’s (or chain’s) website: information about resort fees is often posted, but not obvious. A hotel chain may, for instance, post a notice that mentions there will be a resort fee (or ‘resort charge’), but not specify the amount of the fee.
Perhaps the most reliable method is rather old-fashioned: instead of booking online, call a property directly and talk through exactly what your room rate will include — basic rate, taxes, and any fees you’ll be responsible for. (Speaking directly with an actual person at the property also gives you the chance to ask for the lowest possible rate, which can, especially when booking at the last minute, nab you one of those good travel surprises, an unexpected bargain.)
How to talk your way out of a resort fee
While there’s no guarantee that this method will always succeed, a growing number of travelers have managed to avoid paying a resort fee by arguing — ideally in advance of check-in, but sometimes at check-in or even at check-out—that they are seeking only a basic hotel stay, they do not plan to avail themselves of such amenities as a pool fitness center, business center, etc, and would like the resort fee to be waived.
If you plan to go this route, be prepared for pushback: you’ll likely have to talk to an actual person (as opposed to emailing or using an online form), so it will pay to be polite, and be prepared to ask to speak to that person’s manager. You should also be prepared to be told emphatically ‘no’ no matter how polite or logical your argument may seem. If you can’t afford the resort fee, don’t assume that you can successfully talk your way out of it.
In some cases, travelers have successfully disputed a resort fee with their credit card company, or by taking a hotel to small-claims court. Those seeking to attempt such a dispute will find resources at KillResortFees.com, whose founder, Lauren Wolfe, is an attorney who works for the consumer advocacy group Travelers United.
As with many such travel mishaps, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure: it’s possible to avoid resort fees altogether, but it takes some advance work.
Just say no. As mentioned above, use ResortFeeChecker.com and simply avoid any property that has a reputation or record of charging hidden fees. (A more specialized, though admittedly limited, resource dedicated to Las Vegas can be especially helpful for travelers concerned about Sin City’s reputation for resort fees.)
Join hotel rewards programs. In addition to the other benefits of joining the rewards programs of hotel chains you frequent and enjoy, some programs waive resort fees for members who book using reward points. Wyndham, Hilton and Hyatt are especially known for waiving resort fees.
Leverage elite status if you can. The world of elite-status travel is complex, and, of course, tends to involve travelers with deep pockets. But if you have elite status with the property where you’re planning to stay, use it to ask for a waiver of any resort fees.
A typical stay at an Airbnb property will not include a resort fee. But do be aware that if an Airbnb host manages six or more listings, they are allowed to charge resort fees, linen fees, management fees, and community fees.
You have to pity historic seafarers – with so many paradise islands to choose from in Central America, it must have been a daily challenge deciding where to weigh anchor. Stunning specks of green jungle and blond sand dot the coastline of the isthmus, all different from one another, and some quite unusual.
To set the scene, one island – more than 300 miles off the coast of Costa Rica – is said to have inspired Robert Louis Stevenson’s Treasure Island. And real-life pirates once menaced this stretch of ocean, setting up secret bases on islands such as Roatan 0ff the coast of Honduras.
Many of the best-known isles are strung out along the Caribbean Coast, but there are also islands off the Pacific Coast, and more dotted around Central America’s volcanic lakes. Some are composed of limestone and sand, while others were thrown up by volcanoes or spawned by coral reefs, and all offer a uniquely Central American taste of the tropics.
Regardless of which island you choose, pack your sunscreen and a sense of adventure. Here’s our pick of the best islands in Central America.
Bocas del Toro, Panama, is the perfect tropical getaway
Best for a Caribbean vibe
When people envision a dream Caribbean getaway, clear turquoise waters, swaying palm trees and brightly colored weatherboard houses are almost obligatory, and you’ll find all of this and more at Bocas del Toro. This lively archipelago off the northwestern shore of Panama consists of a sprinkling of sun-sizzled islands, all with different vibes and offerings, along with hundreds of tiny uninhabited islets.
You can show up by plane from Panama City or David, by ferry boat from Almirante, or from Puerto Viejo and Cahuita in Costa Rica. Most visitors stay on Isla Colón, the most popular and populated island, but you can also park up on quieter, forested Isla Carenero or Isla Bastimentos – the largest and most chilled out of the islands.
Short trips by water taxi connect these and other main islands, and popular ways to pass the time include boat trips to spot dolphins and mangrove birdlife, inland hikes, surfing, coastal kayaking and snorkeling, and tours of cacao farms, plus plenty of lazing on the sand.
For island life with more action, head to Ambergris Caye, Belize
Best for reefs and nightlife
A sizable crowd of North American escapees have set up base in the seaside condos on pretty Ambergris Caye, the largest island on the Caribbean coast of Belize. Who can blame them? From beaches and diving on the largest barrier reef in the Americas to buzzing nightlife, Ambergris Caye has everything.
For starters, you’ve got the sugar-sand beaches and mangrove-lined lagoons, and you can add in glitzy resorts and the lively downtown hub of San Pedro, frequented by convivial locals and sun-dazed tourists zipping around in golf carts. It’s the perfect mix for travelers who like a bit of comfort and action with their island paradise.
And Ambergris offers seemingly infinite opportunities for recreation – beachside water sports, waterslides and ziplines, secret beaches, and of course, spectacular diving and snorkeling on the barrier reef system offshore. Spend a day here and you’ll quickly understand why this is Belize’s top tourist draw. Getting to Ambergris is easy by boat from Belize City, Corozal or Chetumal in Mexico, or by plane from airstrips all over Belize, but leaving can feel much harder!
Formed by two conjoined volcanoes rising from the middle of Lake Nicaragua, the island of Ometepe is Central America’s premier stop for backpackers seeking outdoor adventure. Thrill-seekers arrive by ferry from the port town of St Jorge and dive straight in, renting scooters, riding horses to jungle waterfalls, kayaking on the Istián River or summiting the 1394m (4573ft) Maderas Volcano.
For less intrepid travelers, there’s great swimming on the beaches near the Ecological Reserve Charco Verde – a pretty lagoon sold rather short by its prosaic name which means ‘green puddle.’ Finding petroglyphs is another rewarding activity; nearly 1700 carvings adorn rocks across the island. We also recommend taking a tour of Finca Magdalena, a large organic coffee farm that also doubles as a hostel and restaurant.
Honduras’ blissful Bay Islands are an underwater playground
Best for cheap diving
Formed by an underwater mountain range, these long, narrow wisps of land off the northern coast of Honduras offer some of Central America’s best underwater adventures. The largest and best-known island, Roatán, was once a notorious pirate hangout, but these days it caters to rather more mid-range travelers, drawn here by chic resorts and paradisiacal white sand beaches. Neighboring Guanaja is mostly visited by divers on all-inclusive packages.
To the west, tiny Utila is the budget option, with abundant cheap accommodation, a fun traveler scene, and some of the most affordable scuba certification courses in the world (with open-water certification going for around US$285). Additional draws include year-round whale shark sightings and backpacker parties that roam around the island’s bars.
Fast ferries run to the islands from La Ceiba on the mainland, but some visitors opt to fly, with direct shuttle flights to Roatán from the US as well as from La Ceiba and other cities in Honduras.
Archipiélago de San Blas, Panama is totally off-grid
Best for escaping the world
An adventurous stopover for those traveling between Panama and Colombia, the Archipiélago de San Blas – or Guna Yala, as locals call it – is a 365-island stunner self-governed by the Guna community, the first indigenous group in Latin America to secure political autonomy. There’s been almost no development here save for palm-thatched villages and livestock enclosures, and the tourist experience is delightfully rustic. There are no resorts, just camping grounds and cabañas (beach huts), and no internet access, which is exactly the point.
Most travelers arrive on sailboats from the mainland port of Gardi (Cartí) and kick back beside pristine, powdery beaches. Days are spent frolicking in the crystal-clear surf or gliding over coral reefs with masks pointed down at the undersea ecosystem. A stay here is also a chance to immerse yourself in Guna culture, which is famed across the region for its traditional dancing and artful crafts.
The tiny islands of Las Isletas, Nicaragua, are great for day-trippers
Best for freshwater island-hopping
About 20,000 years ago, Nicaragua’s Mombacho Volcano violently erupted, launching enormous boulders into nearby Lake Nicaragua. Over time, these became Las Isletas – more than 300 tiny islands supporting abundant vegetation and thriving birdlife, found just a short hop from Nicaragua’s former colonial capital, Granada.
You can stay over on some islands, but day-trippers can cruise around the islets in a panga boat or paddle around by kayak and spy on the opulent vacation homes of some of Nicaragua’s most prosperous families. Most of the islands are only big enough for a single home, restaurant or resort, but one island boasts an 18th-century Spanish fortress. For an utterly tranquil escape, hunker down at the Jicaro Island Lodge for a few days.
If Ambergris Caye is Belize’s hyperactive and attention-grabbing diva, Caye Caulker is its chilled-out, devil-may-care younger sibling. This slender island is sought out by international backpackers and footloose families who like to spend their vacations relaxing in hammocks beside white powder beaches, and sipping fruity rum-based drinks at beachside reggae bars.
For those who simply must go exploring, there are bikes and golf carts for rent and the impossibly turquoise sea beckons on all sides, with great snorkeling and kayaking and chances to spot manatees in mangrove lagoons. Visitors arrive by ferry boat or plane either from Belize City or from Ambergris Caye.
Corn Islands, Nicaragua
Best for a low-key island escape
Off the Caribbean coast of Nicaragua, these far-flung islands are blissfully devoid of large-scale development. Instead, you’ll find stilted-mounted, multi-colored cabañas, toothsome seafood and idyllic, unspoiled beaches. Lobster catching and tourism are the principal industries, and popular island pursuits include relaxing in hammocks strung between palms and snorkeling in the bathtub warm sea.
The two Corn Islands – Great Corn and Little Corn – are a half-hour boat ride apart and are accessed via plane or ferry from Bluefields, or flights from Managua. Tourists tend to prefer Little Corn as it’s the more charming of the two, with better snorkeling and diving and a bigger selection of restaurants.
Easy going Flores, Guatemala, is the gateway to Mayan wonders
Best for Mayan history
In the southern part of Guatemala’s Lake Petén Itzá, backed by vast swaths of rainforest and accessed by a narrow causeway, Flores is first and foremost a base for exploring Tikal, the most impressive ruined Mayan city in all of Central America. But it’s a lot more than that.
Cobblestone streets, romantic plazas and restaurants and guesthouses with elegant roof terraces define this easygoing town, and it even has its own set of modest Mayan ruins lining the lakeshore. Flores is also a perfect launching point for lake swimming or boating, and a place to take lovely sunset strolls along unsubmerged sections of the promenade that rings the island.
Isla del Coco, Costa Rica is full of tall tales and incredible wildlife
Best for finding the real Treasure Island
About 300 miles southwest of mainland Costa Rica, Parque Nacional Isla del Coco is a far-flung national park and UNESCO World Heritage site with a rich seafaring history. This remote island was reputedly the inspiration for Robert Louis Stevenson’s Treasure Island, and off its shores, hammerhead sharks gather by the hundreds because their food source is constantly replenished by cold, nutrient-rich waters colliding with a submerged mountain range.
Whale sharks and humpbacks often show up for the party, as do divers on liveaboard trips from Puntarenas on the Costa Rican mainland – which are the only way to reach this somewhat inaccessible idyll. Because the island is the only source of freshwater for hundreds of miles, it became an important refuge for whalers and raiding pirates in the 17th century. Treasure is supposedly hidden within the island’s yawning caves, though numerous expeditions have so far failed to unearth anything of significance.
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The scene is set. During your recent trip to your favourite place with your future spouse, you woke up to the shining sun, looked out at the misty mountains, breathed in the subtle fumes of your coffee and thought “I could get married here”. You get excited about the prospect of celebrating your wedding in this beautiful country before reality suddenly sets in. How on earth are you going to do that?!
I hear you. After 4 years of working as a wedding planner and coordinator in the UK, I embarked on the mammoth task of planning destination weddings in Portugal. It wasn’t easy to navigate a foreign market with a non-traditional, colourful style and strong opinions. But, lo and behold, I learnt the ways and now work with clients in 5 different time zones to make their dream wedding in Portugal come to life. Destination wedding planning needn’t be a scary thing, so here are my do’s and don’ts to get you started.
1. Do choose a location that means something to you
You would be surprised at how the perceived sexiness of a country predictably transforms it into a honeypot for weddings. Sure, it’s nice to get married in a location everyone is talking about and I’ve been happily riding the wave of Portugal’s newfound appeal in the last couple of years; but wedding planning is so personal that choosing a location with a personal connection is key. Whether that is due to family ties, a first holiday, or even an idyllic spot you’ve always wanted to visit, that emotional connection will make your nuptials unforgettable.
2. Don’t decide to get married abroad to save money
The amount of misinformation out there about the cost of destination weddings baffles me. Favourable exchange rates and smaller-scale vendors may give you slightly more bang for your buck but transport, accommodation, transfer fees and pre/post events all add up. Not to mention guests that are keen to explore the area as part of the celebration. These additional expenses might mean you break even, but could easily push you over the cost of a wedding at home.
The right mindset and research are a crucial part of destination wedding planning – don’t assume it’s cheaper. As a rule of thumb, start with 100 pound/dollars/euros (whatever the local currency is) per person to cover your venue, food and drinks costs only. You can build up the rest of your budget from there.
This is the driving principle of all wedding planning: your guests will be spending a lot of time and money to attend your wedding and the guest experience needs to be a priority. This doesn’t mean compromising on your dreams (unless that includes a 4-hour cocktail hour in the baking sun, one canapé per person and a clown singing the Barbie Girl song for the duration of the day).
Think of how you’d approach it as a guest: transport links, shade and seating areas in hot locations, affordable accommodation, etc. Lots of kids on your guestlist? A babysitter or entertainer on-site to keep them happy throughout the day would make happy parents. It’s often the smallest of details that make your guests feel really appreciated and looked after. Your aim, after all, is to have a great time with your guests, not in spite of them!
One of the top pitfalls I see: an absence of comms to guests. It goes way beyond a Save the Date note and invitations. You need welcome guides, wedding websites and email updates. Being a guest to a wedding overseas without a detailed website is like navigating the London underground blindfolded and drunk. They could probably get to your destination, but they’ll be flustered, irritated and confused. Not a great start to the trip of a lifetime.
Go overboard! Beyond the basics of your wedding (where, when, timings, menu choices), let people know how to get the best out of their time in the country. Have a detailed FAQs section all about transportation, activities, local language phrases and practical health care tips. Look into local accommodation options at different price points and provide links to them. The more information you give, the better experience your guests will have.
5. Do hire a wedding planner (but only if you want one)
Surprisingly, I don’t think you 100% need a wedding planner to plan a destination wedding. Many couples delight in taking on the challenge and have a great time in the process. If you are a born organiser, researcher and project manager, you are going to loooove it. That said, if you’re far more interested in planning the ultimate honeymoon adventure than scrolling through multiple translated Google pages for catering companies, a planner can help take the wedmin off your plate.
As professionals, we can manage your budget, find your ideal venue, source suppliers, negotiate rates and generally keep your head from exploding if planning is not your bag. Overall my advice is to take things step by step. Wedding planning can feel like a Sisyphean task of endless spreadsheets, emails and negotiations.
If you break it down into sizeable chunks and abide by these principles, I promise you, it won’t be so difficult. Give yourself plenty of time, follow the steps and you’ll be well on your way to the destination wedding of your dreams!
Read more: Need more help planning the ultimate destination wedding? We’ve got you covered with more tips on how to have your wedding abroad and a guide to the best overwater villas for your honeymoon.
A fiddle scratches out a sweet wail in a sweatbox dance hall. The wheeze of a button accordion adds a waltzing rhythm. These are the beginning bars of Cajun music, the aural legacy of rural southern Louisiana. It’s a soundtrack that can alternately move you to tears or intense dancing (and sometimes both) in the space of a few bars.
Cajun band playing at the Festivals Acadiens et Creoles in Lafayette. Image by Judy Bellah / Lonely Planet Images / Getty Images
Who are the Cajuns?
Many people think the terms ‘Cajun’ and ‘Creole’ are interchangeable, but they actually refer to two distinct populations. In Louisiana, Creoles are either the descendants of 18th-century French and Spanish colonists, or racial mixes of African Americans, white Louisianans and sometimes, Native Americans. The Cajuns on the other hand descend from Francophone refugees who fled the maritime provinces of Canada after they were conquered by Britain during the Seven Years’ War (also known as the French and Indian War).
These maritime provinces (New Brunswick, Prince Edward Island and Nova Scotia) were, under French rule, known as Acadie, and the refugees deemed themselves Acadiens (Acadians). A homeless population of Acadians searched for a place to settle for decades until seven boatloads of exiles arrived in New Orleans in 1785. By the early 19th century some 3000 to 4000 Acadians, or Cajuns as they became known, lived in southern Louisiana. Some farmed rice, some worked crops and livestock on the prairies, and some occupied the swampland, where they eked out a living based on fishing and trapping.
Acadian village in Lafayette. Image by Stephen Saks / Lonely Planet Images / Getty Images
Cajun vs zydeco
Cajun music tends to be built around a fiddle and accordion; modern ensembles often add a bass and rhythm guitar, and sometimes a drum set. Traditional songs address subjects such as frontier life, death, love and even the supernatural, such as Hippy To-Yo, a Cajun classic about a pair of ghost dogs.
Zydeco merges Cajun instrumentation and techniques with African-influenced beats and rhythms. Ensembles originally comprised a fiddle, a diatonic button accordion, guitars and a triangle; the rhythm section usually also includes a frottoir: a metal washboard-like instrument that’s worn like armor and played with spoons. The end result is a genre of music that is made for dancing.
Cajun fiddles at the Festivals Acadiens et Creoles. Image by Judy Bellah / Lonely Planet Images / Getty Images
Strictly speaking, Cajun music is the music of those descended from the Acadians, while zydeco is the music of French-speaking people of all backgrounds who share the region. We know that many musicologists (to say nothing of Louisianan music fans) would consider it a heresy to lump the two genres together. But as both come from Cajun country, for now, we’re considering both to be Cajun music.
Where to hear Cajun music in New Orleans
Cajun music pops off in New Orleans here and there, but the most consistent show in town is at the Rock ‘n’ Bowl. On Thursday nights, this bowling alley-turned-main-stage-venue hosts a zydeco act that’s been consistently wowing audiences for years. Patrons flow in from across the city and suburban parishes and engage in an enormous dance party; when your feet wear out, you can hit the bowling lanes.
Zydeco band at Mid City Rock & Bowl. Image by Bruce Tuten / CC BY 2.0
Mulate’s restaurant in the Warehouse District isn’t exactly a hole in the wall with sawdust on the floor – the sort of place many people think of when they imagine a Cajun dance hall. Despite the tourist-y vibe you can catch live Cajun music here any night of the week.
The other sure shot means of hearing zydeco and Cajun music in New Orleans is during Jazz Fest. This is the city’s iconic music festival, and one stage – the Fais Do-Do stage – is a nonstop showcase of the best of Louisiana’s Cajun and zydeco sound (‘Fais Do-Do’ is Cajun slang for a party). Locals tend to flock to the the Fais Do-Do stage as it is often a respite from the crowds at bigger main stages, and there’s always dancing to boot.
Lafayette, Breaux Bridge & Henderson
About three hours west of New Orleans is the city of Lafayette, which is the heart of Louisiana’s Cajun country. Lafayette and nearby Breaux Bridge have a number of excellent venues for Cajun music, but by far the most famous is the Blue Moon Saloon. Check the website for Cajun music events, as the lineup is often pretty eclectic. Whatever is playing, a show here is always a winning proposition.
La Poussiere hosts a more traditional Cajun dance hall experience (and an older crowd), and has been reeling in the crowds for over five decades. Randol’s is a seafood restaurant and dance hall combo that has Cajun bands playing seven nights a week. Be prepared to get up and dance or have your excuses ready.
Cajun band performing at the Blue Moon Saloon. Image by Gwen Aucoin Photography / courtesy of Blue Moon Saloon & Guesthouse
If you want some Cajun food to go with your Cajun music, the zydeco breakfast at Buck and Johnny’s in Breaux Bridge is a wonderful intersection of decadent cuisine and the sort of danceable tunes that will help you shake the calories off.
About 20 minutes east of Lafayette is the tiny town of Henderson, a waterfront community situated near the glassy wetlands of the Atchafalaya Basin. It’s long been a magnet for Cajun concerts, which regularly pop off at the enormous dance hall at the Atchafalaya Club.
In the Cajun Prairie
North of Interstate 10, bayous and swamps give way to grasslands, prairies and (yes!) dancing cowboys. The small towns of Opelousas, Eunice and Mamou are a hotbed of Cajun and zydeco music with museums, radio shows and venues dedicated to the genre. The best time to visit all three communities is Saturday, when you can take in a live show at Fred’s Lounge, follow with the Cajun jam at the Savoy Music Center in Eunice, spend the afternoon in the region’s museums and (if you’ve still got some accordion left in you), dance the night away in Opelousas.
Motorbikes outside Fred’s Lounge. Image by Stephen Saks / Lonely Planet Images / Getty Images
Fred’s Lounge, Mamou
On Saturday mornings, this smoky little sweatbox of a bar hosts a packed Cajun music concert that draws in crowds from across the state, many of whom speak Louisiana French as a second, if not mother, tongue. Doors open in the morning (around 9am), and a few minutes later, people are several sheets to the wind and dancing to boot. It’s a step back in time, and a reminder that for all Louisiana is a part of the USA, the Cajun frontier is very much its own entity. Fred’s Lounge is found at 420 6th St in Mamou; the music usually wraps around 1:30pm.
Eunice
Saturday is also the day to head into Eunice, a short drive south of Mamou, where the Savoy Music Center, an accordion factory and shop, hosts a Cajun-music jam from 9am til noon. Anyone can join in, although be warned: only one triangle player is allowed to jam at any one time. The shop sells Cajun music CDs and instruments.
After the jam, learn more about Cajun instruments and famous players at the Cajun Music Hall of Fame, and the Prairie Acadian Cultural Center. The latter holds a Cajun French demonstration at 1pm on Saturdays, and a music, food and culture demonstration at 2:45pm and 4pm on Saturdays.
When Saturday evening rolls around, it’s time for the ‘Grand Ole Opry’ of Cajun music. At the Liberty Theater, locals dance in front of the stage where a variety of bands play for the broadcast of Rendez-vous des Cajuns, the live musical variety show that’s played out on local radio from 6pm.
Zydeco performance at the Liberty Theater. Image by Stephen Saks / Lonely Planet Images / Getty Images
This article was originally published in 2015 and updated in 2018.
