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Road tripping: from Las Vegas to Great Basin National Park

Senior Director of Content Laura Motta loves the American West for its intense beauty, endless layers of human and natural history, and its full-on sense of weirdness. She took a road trip from Las Vegas to Great Basin National Park. Here’s what she encountered on the way.

A large dish-shaped metal item - like a spaceship - stands in a desert area
In Hiko, Nevada, visit this

Day 1: Route 93 to Ely

Take a look around

As you drive north out of Las Vegas along US Rte 93, the Great Basin Highway, the flat desert falls away and the mountains rise up on either side. They are green, then craggy brown, then blue-gray in the distance. This is America at its most expansive and mind-bogglingly beautiful, and the view out your car windows is as much your “destination” as anything else you’ll see on this trip.

See if the truth is out there

Two hours north of Las Vegas, Rte 93 intersects with Rte 375 a desolate stretch of road known as the Extraterrestrial Highway. This is as close as you’ll get to Area 51, the highly classified US Air Force base that spawned persistent conspiracy theories and rumors of alien research. Knowing visitors are forbidden, I made a quick stop in the town of Hiko instead to visit some quirky and definitely unclassified sites that capture the area’s kitsch factor. E.T. Fresh Jerky is a gift shop that specializes in “alien” (actually beef) jerky. It makes a good snack for the drive. Plus, there are some fun, photo-ready items in the parking lot (a giant “crashed” space ship, a mural of otherworldly creatures). Just up the road, another gift shop called the Alien Research Center is where you’ll find shot glasses, t-shirts and stickers adorned with little green men.

Fuel up

Stretch your legs and grab lunch or a snack in the town of Caliente. I had a quesadilla at Knotty Pine, where you can enjoy the vintage vibes and play slot machines in the bar. You should also get gas in town, so take the opportunity to fuel up even if your tank isn’t empty.

Worship at nature’s cathedral

Just past Caliente on Rte 93, you’ll reach Cathedral Gorge State Park. This dramatic canyon, formed by eroded rock and clay, looks like a giant melting layer cake. It has some easy trails near the park entrance that can be completed in less than hour. Note that the park requires advance reservations for entry at peak times.

Hit the hay

By the time you reach the town of Ely, you will have earned a rest. I stayed at the Motel 6 (spotless, with especially welcoming staff) and the historic Hotel Nevada (Old West vibes, lots of taxidermy in the lobby).

Mountains on the edge of a lake as the sun shines down
Follow trials through Great Basin National Park to the picturesque Wheeler Peak © Laura Motta / Lonely Planet

Day 2: Great Basin National Park

Get to know the park

Drive about an hour west of Ely to reach Great Basin National Park, which is known for snow-capped peaks and an intricate cave system. There are also groves of rare, twisty limbed bristlecone pines, some of which are thought to be more than 5000 years old.

Go spelunking

Start your morning by descending into Lehman Caves, the park’s central attraction and a must-see on any visit. The caves are classified as their own national monument and have their own parking lot and visitors center within the wider national park. Book a tour with a park ranger (30, 60 or 90 minutes, prices vary) to see enormous stalagmites and stalactites, underground lakes and the few living organisms that call the cave home.

Take a hike (or two)

After you see the caves, hop back in your car and drive the winding uphill road – an experience unto itself – toward Wheeler Peak. I parked in the lot well before the summit and set out from there on foot. There are trailheads here that lead to a few different, equally awe-inspiring sights, including the bristlecone pine groves and Nevada’s last glacier. I chose the Alpine Lakes Loop, a relatively flat trail that leads to the sparkling lakes Teresa and Stella. On the way, I crunched my way through light snow cover, snapped too many photos of soaring Wheeler Peak and enjoyed the crisp air. A good option is to try one trail earlier in the day, drive back to Lehman Caves for a quick lunch in the visitors center, and then pick another one to do in the afternoon. A word of caution, however: Some of these trails are labeled “easy,” but the park’s elevation adds a level of difficulty. Bring enough water, wear layers and pace yourself.

A vintage train with dark carriages passes through a station
Take a ride on a vintage train along Nevada Northern Railway © Laura Motta / Lonely Planet

Day 3: In and around Ely

Soak up some Nevada nostalgia

Copper mining and a prime location along Nevada’s Pony Express route these are the things that built the town of Ely. The town is a good base for exploring Great Basin National Park, but it also allows easy access to a few other whimsical, slightly strange sights that make a fun add-on to a national park trip.

Make it malted

Pull up a vintage red-and-chrome seat at the soda fountain at Economy Drug, which opened for business in 1946. Excellent sandwiches and vintage-style sodas are menu standouts, but you can also order malts, milkshakes and ice cream. And of course, if you run out of toothpaste or sunblock, you can get it here, too. True to its name, Economy Drug remains a working pharmacy.

Ride the rails

It’s hard to find a more charming spot in Ely than its impeccably preserved train station, which is part of the Nevada Northern Railway. Not only does this organization maintain the station and all of its adjacent buildings, it also preserves and runs a collection of vintage locomotives and train cars. Book a trip on one of them to go stargazing in the desert, view a fireworks display, learn about geology or sip champagne. Programming rotates and is oriented to the season. You can also tour the station itself.

Search for treasure

Garnet Hill is a designated “rockhounding” area, or a place that’s open to the public for geological treasure hunting. Drive up the steep dirt road as far as you can go, park, and then walk up the hill about 20 minutes to reach the best hunting spots. The hill is named for the dark red gems that are common in the area, but you’re more likely to find other kinds of wonders close to the surface namely, bits of petrified wood and fossils. I found a fragment of a trilobite a prehistoric marine animal that would have lived on this spot more than 250 million years ago and burst into tears at the wonder of it.

See what’s left of a mining boom

Just off of Rte 50, about 30 minutes from Ely, you’ll find one of the oddest, and most oddly enchanting, sites in the area. The Ward Charcoal Ovens, each one standing more than 30ft tall in a vast tract of open desert, were where charcoal was made for the smelting of silver in the 1800s. The nearby mining town would be wrecked by flood and fire by the close of the 19th century, but the stone ovens remain. You can even dart inside them to get a closer look at their open, beehive like design.

A museum display showing a rocket-like item in a glass case
Learn about atomic energy and weaponry at the National Atomic Testing Museum in Las Vegas © Kit Leong / Shutterstock

Day 4: Las Vegas

Get back to Sin City

If you drove up to Ely via Rte 93, you can take an alternate road, Rte 318, back to Vegas. It affords different views of the mountains and saves about 30 minutes of driving. On my last night in Nevada, I opted for a few simple Las Vegas pleasures a terrifying museum and a perfect martini. I started at the Atomic Museum, which unflinchingly charts the history of atomic energy and weaponry. For more than 40 years starting in the 1950s, the area north of Las Vegas was America’s official nuclear testing site. (In the 1950s, postcards showed an illustration of a Vegas showgirl wearing a mushroom cloud as a costume.)

Exhibits go deep on technology and history, but also examine the ethics of nuclear war, and even of the testing site itself. That evening, I headed to Delilah for a drink and I definitely needed one. This supper club-slash-nightclub has live big-band-style music, simple food that hits the spot (the chicken fingers are a favorite) and impeccable cocktails, all in an atmosphere that feels like a throwback to gilded Rat Pack-era Las Vegas. This is the one spot on your trip where you’ll be asked to put away your cell phone and just enjoy and it’s so good that you won’t mind.

Laura traveled to Nevada courtesy of Travel Nevada. Lonely Planet does not accept free travel in exchange for positive coverage.

Related:

  • Hiking Great Basin National Park

  • 6 of the best road trips in Nevada

  • 8 best road trips from Las Vegas

Nice for next to no euros? Here are the best free things to do

One of Europe’s most glamorous, star-studded corners, the sun-kissed Côte d’Azur can take a toll on your wallet. Yet there are many ways to enjoy its largest city, Nice, without having to spend all your euros.

From panoramic hilltop vistas to some of the world’s most famous beaches, this seductive city isn’t short of fine things to see for those traveling on a budget.

If you need a break from multiple museum entry fees and overpriced menus, here’s a look at the best free things to do in Nice.

1. Bask in the beauty of Nice’s beaches

The arcing blue sweep of Nice’s coast is probably the first thing that strikes you as descend on the Côte d’Azur. Thankfully, it’s a moment you can revisit again and again every day. While the stones of Nice’s beaches aren’t quite as soft as the sand further down the Riviera, the views are beautiful, and you can spend a whole afternoon stretched out in the sun (just be sure to bring a towel to lie on). If you’re craving sand, then take the short bus ride around the bend to the sheltered shores of Villefranche-sur-Mer.

People strolling on the Promenade des Anglais during the late afternoon.
Join locals sauntering along the Promenade des Anglais as the sun sets © trabantos / Shutterstock

2. Saunter down the Promenade des Anglais

Taking its name from the 19th-century English aristocratic infatuation with Nice’s pleasant climate, the Promenade des Anglais is an elegant palm-tree-lined walkway stretching 4 miles (6.5km) along the city’s seafront. It gets busy during the summer with joggers, cyclists and wide-eyed tourists, yet no trip to Nice is complete without a stroll to admire the grand hotels and casinos along the waterfront (including the famous Hôtel Negresco) while the Mediterranean gently rolls in over the beach’s pebbles. In the evening, the lights flicker on and the hills to the east become stunning silhouettes, while the metronomic flashing light from the distant lighthouse at Port Lympia makes for an evocative scene.

Enjoying seeing Nice by foot? See more of the Old Town on this Local Stroll

3. Look up to admire la Maison d’Adam et Eve

One of Nice’s most unique architectural curiosities is surprisingly hidden away in the most tourist-choked part of town. Head to the Rue de la Poissonnerie to find the Adam and Eve House, one of the oldest structures in Nice. Still in fine condition, it has a beautiful first-floor relief fresco featuring the characters of Adam and Eve that really captures the imagination. Dating from 1584, the house can be easy to miss among the Old Town’s narrow streets – so remember to look up.

4. Enjoy panoramic views from Colline du Château

Nice is a spectacular city at ground level, but to truly appreciate its allure you need to scale the stone steps up Old Castle hill, one of the top things to do in town at any price. The climb at the city shore’s eastern end is surprisingly short; as you ascend, the turquoise coast’s curve becomes more pronounced and the crooked apricot-colored roofs of the city start spreading out before you. The snow-dusted peaks of the Alps are visible in the far distance, while the other side of the summit gives grand vistas looking down towards the bobbing yachts and sails of the Old Port. Grab a coffee from La Citadelle Cafe. If you’re lucky, you’ll snag a table with perfectly framed views through the trees down to the beach.

View of the garden of the Cimiez monastery in Nice, France
Take a moment of two in the ornamental garden of the Cimiez monastery above Nice © Emmeci74 / Getty Images

5. Find serenity at Jardin du Monastère de Cimiez

A secluded escape from the bustle of Nice, the Garden of the Cimiez Monastery (Jardin du Monastère de Cimiez) hasn’t changed much since it was first built 1546 by the monks as an orchard and vegetable garden. The pretty climbing roses add sprinkles of pink and red to the lush green terrace and there are fabulous views back across the rooftops toward La Colline du Château. The gardens are free to enter and offer a serene spot in which to unwind after a busy morning exploring.

6. People-watch at Place Masséna

Squares are the perfect place for people watching, and Nice’s grand Place Masséna is one of the best in France. Vast and always alive with activity, this plaza was designed by Joseph Vernier in 1843. Today, modern trams glide through the square and past the water jets of the glimmering Fontaine Miroir d’eau. Take a seat on the marble rim of the Fontaine du Soleil and watch the world go by while admiring the bright peach and pink Italianate architecture surrounding the famous square. Place Masséna is also just a stone’s throw from the narrow meandering streets of the Old Town, making it ideal for a rest after a long stroll.

Lonely Planet travel writer Nicola Williams shares everything you need to know before you go to Nice

7. Check out the contemporary art scene at Villa Arson Art Gallery

Nice’s Villa Arson is far more than just a few high-ceiling corridors lined with pleasant paintings. It’s an institution that’s deeply and actively involved in the cultural and artistic life of the city, and as such makes for a fascinating visit. Set inside a brutalist building hidden away in Nice’s northern neighborhoods, Villa Arson has housed a national center of contemporary art, a national school of art, a media library and a residence for artists for over 40 years. When you’ve finished admiring the art inside, head out to the hanging garden to enjoy an overlook with a view of city.

8. See live music – and art – at La Cave Romagnan

Entry is free at this much-loved hub for creativity and culture, La Cave Romagnan, on Rue d’Anglaise. Manu welcomes visitors to admire his eclectic library and photography exhibitions in the day time (it’s closed from 2pm to 4.30pm, naturally, this is France). In the evenings you might catch poetry slams, theatrics or live jazz from 7pm to 9pm (which also comes with free entry). Performers are paid via a hat handed around, so if you do have some to spare euros, show your appreciation. Seats are limited, it’s mostly standing-room-only with late-comers crowded around the door to soak up the convivial atmosphere.

9. Say a prayer in the Cathédrale Orthodoxe Saint-Nicolas de Nice

The ornate Cathédrale Sainte-Réparate is right in the heart of the Old Town, but for a unique church visit we recommend making the trip to the Cathédrale Saint-Nicolas, one of Nice’s more unusual sights. Located a couple of streets behind Nice-Ville train station, this Russian Orthodox church has five tiled onion domes that are unlike anything else in the city. Considered one of the most important Orthodox buildings outside the Russian Federation, the church has a surprisingly small interior filled with delightful floral blue patterns and icons in decorative gilded frames. The grassy grounds outside are a peaceful spot for sitting back and admiring the architecture.

Flowers on display at the Marché aux Fleurs Cours Saleya, a popular market the OId Town of Nice, Côte d’Azur, France
The flowers for sale at charming Cours Saleya, which has been a (free) market since 1861 © Daniel Nicholson / 500px

​​10. Stop and smell the roses at Marché aux Fleurs, Cours Saleya

The Cours Saleya in the Old Town is a well-trodden tourist spot with restaurants spilling into the street, and it’s also home to one of France’s most famous flower markets. From Tuesday to Sunday, flower arrangements, bouquets, and plants of all colors spring out from the stalls of the ​​Marché aux Fleurs. The market at Cours Saleya has been in operation since 1861, making it a traditional shopping spot for locals since long before the jet-set and holidaymakers discovered the charms of Nice. In addition to the flowers, the market also offers fresh fruit, colorful vegetables, local artisan products and gourmet specialty stalls.

11. Stroll through Cimetière du Château

Just a 10-minute walk from the busy hill summit is the more contemplative space of the Cimetière du Château. This terraced hilltop cemetery is a quiet spot with fine city views and some occasionally elaborate tombs, including that of prominent republican politician Léon Gambetta. Next door is a smaller Jewish cemetery that houses some unique Romanesque-style and neoclassical monuments, as well as a poignant Holocaust memorial with small marble urns on either side of its door.

North America’s most dazzling winter escapes

You know it’s winter in North America when ads promoting the Caribbean, Mexico and Hawaii are absolutely dominating every inch of media you consume. The message: winter is coming; board the nearest plane headed for sun and sand.

But, before you book that flight, consider this counterpoint: those balmy destinations are great year-round. The places that hit peak beauty at the chilliest times of year are only at their best for a short length of time. And what’s more, they don’t always require an airplane or a full week’s vacation to enjoy them. What’s more: there’s no better place than the outdoors with its fresh air and sunshine to sidestep cold and flu season. Grab your parka and mittens, embrace the chill and enjoy these rare moments of winter wonder.

A hiker takes a picture of a snow-blanketed Bryce Canyon
A hiker takes a picture of a snow-blanketed Bryce Canyon. Cavan Images / Getty Images

1. Snowshoe through Bryce Canyon National Park, Utah

Bryce Canyon is a stunner any time of year, but a dusting of snow turns it into a crystalline fairyland as towering red rock hoodoos (formed by erosion) melt away into rolling badlands under blue bird skies. The other benefit of a winter visit: solitude. The height of summer sees 15 times the number of visitors that come during the snowy months.

With fresh snow, Bryce Canyon becomes one of the premier snowshoeing destinations in the US. If you don’t have your own, join one of the ranger-guided snowshoe walks where a pair is provided free of charge.

Bubbles trapped in the frozen water of Abraham Lake, Canada
Bubbles trapped in the frozen depths of Abraham Lake, Canada. Aaaaimages / Getty Images

2. Spy the bubbles at Abraham Lake, Alberta

If Banff and Jasper National Parks don’t fully satisfy your craving for winter beauty, just outside the parks sits Abraham Lake, with its peculiar claim to fame: beautiful bubbles. When the lake freezes over, methane released from decaying matter on the lakebed becomes trapped in the ice, creating a remarkable effect that draws photographers from around the world.

To see the beautiful bubbles in person, timing is everything. Go after the lake has fully frozen and is safe to skate on, but while the ice is still clear enough to see through – usually late December into January. And bundle up – this is one chilly adventure.

The region also boasts some of the most charming and cozy lodges situated against the backdrop of Alberta’s snowcapped mountains. 

3. Catch a show at Horsetail Falls, Yosemite National Park

For most of the year, wispy Horsetail Falls is one of the least remarkable waterfalls in Yosemite Valley, but for about two weeks in mid-to-late February, it’s the star of the show. At sunset, when the winter light is just right, Horsetail Falls lights up like a stream of fire flowing off El Capitan, reminiscent of the long-gone tradition of the Yosemite Firefall when burning embers from a bonfire were pushed over the edge of Glacier Point for the enjoyment of visitors below.

This natural firefall is popular with photographers, so you now need to apply for a permit from the Ansel Adams Gallery to park along the key stretch of Northside Drive near El Capitan (you can also walk or take the free shuttle, no permit required). At the coldest times of winter, also watch for frazil ice: frozen mist crystals from Yosemite Falls that wash down the creek making an icy slurry that flows like white lava.

Never been to Yosemite? We’ve got you covered with this guide here.

The Northern Lights in the sky above a van parked near Fairbanks, Alaska
Fairbanks, Alaska, is a good place to witness the Northern Lights. Piriya Photography / Getty Images

4. Experience the Northern Lights in Fairbanks, Alaska

Winter is the season for the northern hemisphere’s most spectacular light show: the aurora borealis, aka the Northern Lights, and Fairbanks has everything you need (most notably, an international airport). The Northern Lights won’t always come to you – it can take patience, a little luck and some stalking. For the best viewing, head away from the lights of town.

Popular viewing spots include Creamer’s Field, a bird sanctuary on the north side of Fairbanks, and along Chena Hot Springs Road. For a more adventurous approach, guided tours leave from Fairbanks taking you north along the famous Dalton Highway, across the Arctic Circle to Coldfoot and Gates of the Arctic National Park and Preserve.

The 119-year-old resort, Chena Hot Springs, is also a worthwhile offbeat pitstop 60 miles from Fairbanks, offering days passes to the hot springs and pools, as well as overnight accommodations. 

A wintry scene near Old Faithful in Yellowstone National Park
Yellowstone National Park is just as magical as ever in winter. Sandra Kreuzinger / Getty Images

5. Wander with wildlife in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

With the exception of a short stretch of road to Mammoth Hot Springs, Yellowstone National Park shuts down to car traffic every year in early November – but that doesn’t mean you can’t go. Old Faithful Snow Lodge and Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel remain open all year, and once enough snow accumulates (usually by mid-December), roads open to snowmobiles and snow coaches.

In winter, Yellowstone’s famed geysers and other geothermal features make the snow-blanketed landscape steamy and mysterious. For wildlife lovers, look for bison keeping warm near steaming hot springs, migrating herds of elk, foxes donning their winter coats and the always elusive wolf.

Free, ranger-led snowshoe walks are available, and local guides offer a range of skiing, snowshoeing and snowmobiling tours throughout the cold season.

Sailing stones and their paths on the floor of The RaceTrack Playa in Death Valley National Park in California.
The Racetrack Playa in Death Valley National Park is an otherworldly experience. Matt Kazmierski / Getty Images

6. Experience the weird at Racetrack Playa, Death Valley National Park

Until quite recently, the “sailing stones” of Racetrack Playa were a long-standing mystery of Death Valley National Park. Any traveler who makes the long, bumpy trek to the flat playa will see that, over time, numerous large rocks have carved clear, meandering trails across the desert floor. Since the 1940s, dozens of theories on how they move have piled up until researchers finally cracked the case in 2014.

The culprit: winter. Thin sheets of ice that form on the playa floor melt in the morning sun, while wind pushes the floating ice against the rock, moving them along at up to five meters per minute. The Racetrack can be visited during other seasons, too, but winter is one of the most pleasant times to visit, given that the rest of the year Death Valley is generally very hot. 

A woman ice-climbing at Ouray, Colorado
Test your nerve with an ice climb at Ouray, Colorado. Kennan Harvey / Getty Images

7. Ice climb in Ouray Ice Park, Colorado

What do you get when you combine an abundant source of spring water with 7500ft of irrigation pipe, more than 100 shower heads, and a cold, shady gorge in the Rockies? You get the world’s first man-made public ice climbing park. Ouray Ice Park offers climbers of all levels free admission to more than 200 climbs.  Several nearby outfitters rent gear, while multiple local services provide training and guide services for all levels at the park. If you’re there in January, check out the three-day Ouray Ice Festival and Competition, which draws some of the world’s best climbers. 

8. Contemplate in Sequoia National Park, California

Few things on Earth will alter your perspective more than standing next to a giant sequoia. Even better, stand next to a giant sequoia in the snow with no one around to interrupt your thoughts. An adult blue whale, the largest animal, can weigh 200 tons. Comparatively, the General Sherman tree in Sequoia National Park is estimated to weigh over 2,000 tons and is a relative youngster at around 2,200 years old.

At the Giant Forest and Grant Grove you can join free ranger-led snowshoe hikes, or you can head out on your own on one of the park’s many trails. For families with children who aren’t as enthused about a long hike in the snow, check out Wolverton Meadow, which has a winter snow-play area and is great for sledding. Take a break and warm up with a hot cocoa in the restaurant at the nearby Wuksachi Lodge. The area has recently been impacted by wildfires, so check the latest entry rules from the National Parks Service before you go.

A flock of snow geese take flight in Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge, New Mexico
Winter mornings are noisy affairs in Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge, New Mexico. Carl Johnson / Getty Images

9. Go birding in Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge, New Mexico

People aren’t the only travelers that flee the cold of winter. Hundreds of thousands of migratory birds including snow geese and sandhill cranes flock to the marshes and grasslands of Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge south of Socorro, New Mexico, one of the most dramatic birding destinations in North America.

Explore the web of trails on foot, or drive the 12-mile auto tour loop to see hawks, eagles, ospreys and more. Come at sunrise to see huge flocks of geese taking off in search of food, and bring your binoculars and your zoom lens. The peak season is December and January, but you can always check the park’s online bird tracker to see the latest avian arrivals.

10. Ice skate the Rideau Canal, Ottawa

Ottawa’s historic Rideau Canal – one of Canada’s Unesco World Heritage Sites – is the oldest continuously operated canal system in North America. In the winter, the boats disappear, the canal freezes over and it transforms into the world’s largest ice rink. Lace up your skates and explore the nearly 5 miles of glassy ice that runs from downtown Ottawa to Dow’s Lake.

There’s no need to make this a marathon outing; skating the canal can be as leisurely as you like. Heated rest stops dot the skateway, and skates can be rented at numerous spots.  When you’re ready for a break, warm up with freshly fried beavertails (donut-like slabs of dough) sold by vendors along the route. But don’t dawdle too long – the skating season is on average only 50 days long.

Frozen Minnehaha Falls Amidst Trees
Admire the frozen curtain of Minnehaha Falls during winter. Fernanda Silva Borges / EyeEm /Getty Images

11. Admire Minnehaha Falls, Minnesota

Not all winter wonders require a journey out into the frozen middle of nowhere; a few can be found within easy reach of big-city comforts. Minnehaha Falls, made famous by Longfellow’s poem The Song of Hiawatha, can be easily enjoyed within the city limits of Minneapolis.

In the cold winters of Minnesota, the 53-foot waterfall freezes solid, forming a dramatic curtain of ice. Enjoy the frozen falls from a safe distance at the open viewing areas – the City of Minneapolis issues dozens of citations every year for people that venture down into the closed area around the base of the falls.

15 things you absolutely must do in Central America

The Central American isthmus consists of seven countries, two expansive coastlines and more than 100 volcanoes. Add it all up, and you’ve got one of the most exciting regions in the world to explore.

Options for adventure travelers and nature enthusiasts are ubiquitous, and you’ll also find plenty of relaxed island getaways, magnificent Maya ruins and bustling cities. Whatever your travel preferences, Central America can satisfy them.

Whether you’re a first-time visitor or a repeat customer, knowing where to start can be a challenge – but it’s also part of the fun. In this roundup of Central America’s best experiences, we’ll guide you on where to find monkeys, how to choose islands, which volcanoes to summit and who throws the best parties. ¡Vamos!

1. Island hop in Bocas Del Toro, Panama

With nine main islands and some 200 islets, this stunning archipelago looks like a series of eye-catching postcards and is unsurprisingly Panama’s most popular vacation spot.

Its dockside hotels and restaurants, low-hanging palm trees and crystal-blue water have for many years attracted international travelers. Some have even refused to go home.

Activities of choice include pedaling a beach cruiser around, snorkeling among giant sea stars, surfing reef breaks, touring chocolate farms and feasting on delicious Caribbean fare.

In the evenings, Latin rhythms and clinking glasses fill the air on backpacker-y Isla Colón.

2. Meet wildlife on Costa Rica’s Osa Peninsula

The wildest of the wild in Costa Rica, this national park on the country’s most secluded peninsula explodes with biodiversity and eye-popping ecosystems.

In the same afternoon, you can traverse a gnarled, dripping rain forest, cross a waist-deep river and take lunch on a wilderness beach – and you’re all but guaranteed to encounter dangling monkeys, shy tapirs and squawking macaws.

It’s usually intrepid types who venture out here, as the terrain is rugged and remote. But the trails are in good shape, and a guide is required (which is great because getting lost would suck).

Hiker with panorama view of Lake Atitlán and volcano San Pedro and Toliman early in the morning from peak of volcano Atitlán, Guatemala
Visitors to magnificent Lake Atitlán often extend their trips by weeks – or even years © Simon Dannhauer / Shutterstock

3. Self-reflect at Guatemala’s Lago de Atitlán

Outsiders tend to fall in love with Central America’s deepest lake, extending their trips by weeks or even years – and for good reason.

Ringed with lush hillsides, towering volcanoes and diverse communities, this crater lake and its aquamarine waters, a highlight of any Guatemala trip, offer an escape to a simpler way of living.

On an Atitlán getaway, travelers can do it all: some learn Spanish, practice yoga and stay with a local family; others long-distance kayak, scale volcanoes and throw down with other backpackers in San Pedro La Laguna.

Whatever you do here, take some time to relax and reflect by this glorious lake as the rustic fishing boats glide by.

4. Explore Mayan ruins in Honduras’s Copán

Tucked into an idyllic river valley, these archeological ruins were home to a Maya civilization whose artisans could carve stone like few others.

The sculptures here are particularly impressive – don’t miss the hieroglyphic stairway – and a day spent peering around these temples and the surrounding sites will make you feel like a time traveler.

Thereafter, you can retreat to the neighboring town of Copán Ruinas and its lovely boutique hotels or stay in the pine-forested hills at Hacienda San Lucas. Day trips north for a soak in hot springs at Luna Jaguar Spa Resort are to be savored.

5. Plunge into Belizean waters

Undersea adventures are off the hook around the atolls of Belize, where snorkelers and divers glide over spectacular coral formations and encounter majestic marine life, including reef sharks.

At the world-famous Blue Hole, divers submerge more than 100 feet into a massive marine sinkhole.

Reputable tour operators with excellent customer service and solid environmental credentials abound.

And bold travelers seeking a highly personal and adventurous experience should consider a stay on the castaway-esque island Long Caye, which is just minutes from the country’s most coveted underwater attractions.

Market sellers on a lively Sunday market in front of the cathedral facade in the main square of Antigua, Guatemala
Lively markets take place among the cobblestones of Antigua, Central America’s colonial gem © Lucy Brown / loca4motion/Shutterstock

6. Explore Guatemala’s colonial gem, Antigua

Central America’s top colonial showpiece is an enchanting amalgam of cobblestone, crumbling ruins and elegant churches. To comply with its World Heritage listing, the former Guatemala capital hides all evidence of modernity behind traditional pastel facades, and its plazas and markets pulsate with local life.

If you ever tire of wandering these charming streetscapes (which you won’t), you’re also well-placed to venture into the surrounding countryside, where traditional Maya communities, verdant coffee plantations and smoking volcanoes await.

7. Road trip through El Salvador’s Ruta de las Flores

Flanked by wildflowers, this scenic 20-mile road through multi-hued colonial villages and undulating coffee plantations is a journey into the heart of El Salvador.

It is best undertaken on weekends when the cobbled streets of five main settlements come alive with local food festivals. The Feria Gastronómica in Juayúa is particularly delicious.

Regardless of when you go, there will be ample opportunity to shop for artisanal crafts and sample the coffee.

Not too far off the route, Los Chorros de Calera offers hiking and swimming near a series of waterfalls spilling from fractured cliffs.

8. Feast on the Corn Islands’ Caribbean fare

Foodies who land in Central America simply cannot miss the lip-smacking Caribbean cuisine, and there’s no better place to sample it than on Nicaragua’s dreamy Corn Islands.

We’re talking scrumptious lobster, whole fried snapper, heaping plates of coconut-y rice and beans, and (best of all) the rondón.

Essentially the jambalaya of the Caribbean, this local favorite features sea bass or snapper, shellfish, tubers, plantains, heart of palm, plantains, peppers and a host of spices.

Local restaurants on Great Corn – the larger and busier of the two islands – serve this stew year-round. Be sure to give 24 hours’ notice for your order, though, as the ingredients must simmer in a spicy coconut broth all day. The islands also throw a festival dedicated to crab soup every August.

9. Move-and-shake in Panama City

Welcome to Central America’s most hustling, bustling capital city. You could almost mistake the place for Miami with all its steel and glass towers – but the glittering skyline is only the beginning.

We recommend staying in the historic district, Casco Viejo, whose restored colonial buildings now house boutique hotels, swank restaurants and rooftop bars. You’ve also got the crumbling ruins of Panama Viejo, the rollicking nightlife of Calle Uruguay and an abundance of casinos all over the city to keep you entertained.

A short drive west, you can visit the world-famous Panama Canal and its impressive lock system. Rainforest and beach destinations are also within striking distance.

10. Live it up in El Salvador’s Playa El Tunco

El Salvador’s most famous beach is a hard-partying black-sand paradise with killer beach breaks and a distinctive pig-shaped rock formation just offshore. (“Tunco” means pig)

Weekends are an absolute scene with both locals and tourists, and hangovers are best nursed with thin-crust pizza at Tunco Veloz.

Other nearby beaches are much more chill, particularly the windswept wilderness of Barrio Santiago, where turtles hatch along the shore.

A man slides down the sooty side of a volcano at high speed in León, Nicaragua
Nicaragua is the only place in the world you can “volcano board” down a sooty mountain slope © PixieMe / Shutterstock

11. Volcano-board in León, Nicaragua

There is just one place in the world to “send it” down the sooty terrain of a volcano: Nicaragua’s Cerro Negro, just outside of León.

The little-known sport essentially involves dressing up in an orange jumpsuit, a helmet and safety goggles and carrying sled-like equipment up over lava-baked rocks.

Then, you hurl yourself down the sulfur-spewing cinder cone’s ashy flank. The idea is to go fast, but not so fast that you wreck. What’s not to love?

For the full experience, stay at the Bigfoot Hostel, a vibrant backpacker joint formerly owned by the inventor of volcano boarding. Go with one of their group tours and have a Toña beer once you’ve survived.

12. Learn to scuba dive in Utila, Honduras

If you’re looking for big experiences on a small budget, consider taking the plunge off Utila, one of the world’s least expensive places to get scuba-certified.

The balmy, turquoise waters off this palm-flecked Caribbean isle simply teem with colorful coral and curious fish.

Enormous whale sharks have been known to chill on the northern tip of the island all year round, and the tasty seafood and lively bar scene are nothing to scoff at, either.

A scuba diver seen in silhouette from below next to the hull of a boat by the underwater coral reefs in Utila, Honduras
Utila is one of the most economical places in the world to get PADI-certified in scuba © Getty Images / WaterFrame RM

13. Surf Nicaragua’s Pacific Coast

Ever since Endless Summer II hit the big screen in 1994, surfers have been flocking to Central America’s Pacific Coast for its temperate sea and uber-consistent swells.

The film featured Costa Rica’s Tamarindo, and certainly that beach is a surfer’s paradise. But just a few hours north in Nicaragua, things get a bit more adventurous and a lot more affordable.

The former fishing village of San Juan del Sur is now Nicaragua’s jumping-off point for all things surf, but its waves are unremarkable compared to the point breaks and beach breaks found in the secluded bays to the north and south.

The hollow tubes rolling into Playa Maderas are world-class, and the backpacker beach vibes are strong.

A young adventurous man zip-lining through the cloud forest of Monteverde
Zip-line canopy tours were invented in Costa Rica – and as touristy as they’ve become, nothing thrills in quite the same way © Wollertz / Shutterstock

14. Zip-line through the Monteverde forest canopy

We know, we know: there’s nothing more touristy than strapping on a helmet and shimmying into a harness to zip around a Central American forest like some oversized hummingbird on a bender. But the rush is undeniable, and if you’ve never done it, you need to.

There is no shortage of zip lines, particularly in Costa Rica, where the tourist attraction was invented. We are partial to forest flying in the adventure parks of Monteverde, where businesses have stepped things up with Tarzan swings, rappels through tree centers and treetop walkways.

When you’re done, head to the Tree House Restaurant for a delicious passion-fruit smoothie.

15. Do nothing on Caye Caulker in Belize

Sometimes travel can feel a bit hectic. Rest assured that this will never happen on this blissed-out tropical dream island. Think sugar-white sand, warm azure waters and beach bars serving up fruity cocktails and pumping reggae tunes all day long.

Nights are on the quiet side, which tends to draw a chilled-out, international backpacker crowd and plenty of families.

For visitors who insist on doing stuff, there are plenty of opportunities for snorkeling around with turtles and small sharks, spying on manatees or kayaking to lesser-explored parts of the island.

You might also like:
6 road trips in Costa Rica that aren’t for the faint of heart
Central America’s most thrilling volcano adventures
Why you should take a cacao tour in Latin America

Ecuador’s best hikes: 6 treks worth the sweat

Take a look at any topographical map of Ecuador and you’ll immediately notice the Andean spine that cuts through the country from north to south. It’s these mountains and volcanoes that offer the most scope for adventure, and it’s where travelers often head first for the best hikes in Ecuador.

For trekkers and serious climbers alike, the high sierra is packed with paths that climb their way up to high altitude. Others wind across lower elevations, through and around alpine scenery.

There are trails for all levels of fitness, and while hiking and climbing are possible throughout much of the year, the most popular seasons are November to February and June to August. Book with a guide if you want to climb higher, trek solo or travel off season.

Situated on the equator where adjacent tectonic plates have forced the ground upward, Ecuador’s Avenue of the Volcanoes is, quite rightly, one of its top draws and best places for trekking in the high country. The route from Quito to Cuenca passes through breathtaking scenery, where snow-tipped, perfectly conical or rugged mountains punctuate the sky.

The Central Highlands are dotted with pueblos rich in Indigenous Andean heritage, and hiking is also a perfect way to immerse yourself in the culture here.

Walking at altitude brings you to water-filled calderas surrounded by grasses and flowers, and guides can help you descend further into canyons, or upward to secluded lodges and eco-retreats that sit above the cloud line, offering a condor’s eye view of the valleys below.

Here are our picks for the six best hikes in Ecuador.

An aerial shot of Cotopaxi volcano, Ecuador
The volcano’s picture-perfect peak is a constant backdrop for hikers in Cotopaxi National Park ©pxhidalgo/Getty Images

Cotopaxi National Park

Best hike for nature and wildlife

2.2 miles (3.5km); 2 hours; easy

The second-highest peak in Ecuador (19,347ft) and one of the world’s highest active volcanoes, Volcán Cotopaxi offers a serious guided climb for those with the motivation to walk for two days to see the views from the summit.

For others who prefer to stay closer to the base, the 83,000-acre Parque Nacional Cotopaxi’s trails provide a benign, grassy natural sanctuary, with the volcano’s peak as stunning backdrop and central focal point.

Walk around Lake Limpiopungo if you only have a couple of hours to spare – it’s flat, and the gentle terrain will suit all fitness levels. There’s nature in abundance here, from white-tailed deer to Andean fox (or colpeo) roaming the grasslands. The keen-eyed traveler may see soaring condors or even the rare spectacled bear on the volcano’s eastern slopes.

Try horseback riding and stay at one of the park’s traditional haciendas, taking a guided trek to find out more about the flora, fauna and geology of this most beautiful of national parks, arguably Ecuador’s best.

Chimborazo

Best high-altitude hike

23.9 miles (38.4km); 2–3 days; difficult

Heading south to Riobamba, there’s no escaping the shadow of Chimborazo, Ecuador’s highest peak and a staggeringly monumental structure.

Allow time in the area to take the Devil’s Nose, a marvelous feat of railway engineering where the track follows a series of switchbacks as the train cuts its way down and through the Andes. Passing villages en route, you’ll also be greeted with a brilliant view of Chimborazo from the windows early on.

If you’ve become acclimatized to Ecuador’s altitude, you may want to add an ascent of Chimborazo to your itinerary, but only if you’re ready for a challenge. At around 20,700ft, the equatorial summit is the closest point to the sun on Earth, and it’s covered in glacial ice that requires you to hire a certified guide, donning crampons and other serious kit.

Be prepared for an evening at a high-altitude refugio before the final ascent. Preparation and a high level of fitness are absolutely vital for the climb.

Day-trekkers and mountain bikers will love the Reserva de Producción de Fauna Chimborazo, a natural habitat for vicuña, llama and alpaca, with any number of shorter trails out of the park.

From Riobamba, take in nearby views of Altar and Tungurahua volcanoes, Parque Nacional Sangay or Colta Lagoon, the latter of which has some of the loveliest reflections of Chimborazo for those keen on photography or quiet contemplation during a gentle stroll.

An aerial view of the blue-green lake in the Quilotoa crater
Trek to, through or around beautiful Quilotoa crater ©Jochen Conrad/Shutterstock

The Quilotoa Loop

Best hike for highland culture

25 miles (40km); 3–5 days; moderate

One of Ecuador’s most beautiful locations, the scenic Quilotoa crater can be trekked to, through or around, according to your energy levels or available time. Stay overnight at one of the area’s eco-lodges, then enjoy a leisurely ramble to the lookout points or a more strenuous hike down to the lakeshore the next day.

However you get there, the crater rim is probably best selfie spot in all of Ecuador, as teal and emerald water, rugged rock and atmospheric low clouds compete for attention in the background.

The longer Quilotoa Loop takes up to five days and allows for a real dive into local villages and highland culture, where you can pick up phrases in the local Kichwa language as you pass by villages and rainforest vegetation.

A number of markets take place on the loop, from Zumbahua on Saturday to Saquisilí on Thursday. Indigenous markets are one of the highlights of any visit to the Ecuadorian Andes, so be sure to plan your itinerary around them.

Everything is accessible with local transport, and it’s definitely worth spending a few days in the region to explore on foot. Tour operators in Quito can take the pain out of organizing every step of your own schedule.

Lake Cuicocha

Best day hike

7.5 miles (12km); 4–5 hours; easy

If you’re headed to the colorful market town of Otavalo, one of the Andes’ most important Indigenous trading places, Lake Cuicocha is an easy add-on day hike. This flooded, extinct volcano is surrounded by vegetation, making for a beautiful four- or five-hour walk around the rim.

Two small lava islands poke their way out of the center of the laguna, their mounds resembling the guinea pigs from which the lake gets its Kichwa name.

Since Cuicocha Lake is one of the lesser-known caldera hikes in Ecuador (losing out to the more renowned Quilotoa), you’ll surely encounter fewer people on the trail and really get to experience the serenity of nature as you stroll.

The Otavalo area has much to offer, should you choose to base yourself there. The impressive 59ft Peguche waterfalls, enhanced by the wall of lush vegetation that covers the surrounding rock face, are easily reached by foot or bike from Otavalo.

What’s more, an Indigenous water-purification ceremony takes place at the site during the sun festival of Inti Raymi in June, when visitors are welcome. Check in with the local tourist office for details.

A woman sells colorful women products in the market of Otavalo, Ecuador
In between hikes, visit the markets of Otavalo, one of the Andes’ most important Indigenous trading places ©Kseniya Ragozina/Getty Images

Ingapirca and the Inca Trail

Best multi-day hike

25 miles (40km); 3 days; moderate-to-difficult

The Ecuadorian section of the Inca Trail that once connected Quito with Cusco is less known than the Peruvian path to Machu Picchu, yet certainly worth a visit. The hike takes three days total; though much of Ecuador’s royal road was destroyed by Spanish conquistadors, you can see the impressive remains of the Temple of the Sun at Ingapirca.

Reaching a maximum elevation of 13,800ft, the Ecuadorian Inca Trail matches the highest point on the Peruvian section (at Dead Woman’s Pass). The journey to Ingapirca sweeps through cloud-height peaks with views of canyons, lagoons and mountainous scenery.

Take a hiking tour with a local guide and hear the stories of the Inca, as well as the later Indigenous groups’ struggles for independence from their colonial overlords.

Condor Trek

Best trek in Ecuador

31.5 miles (51km); 5 days; difficult

Renowned as one of the best treks in Ecuador, the Trek of the Condor has been called out on a National Geographic roundup of world-wide bucket list adventures. It’s not for the faint of heart, as the five-day trail passes 10,000ft of altitude in many places, often in cold and intense weather.

However, it’s not a very technical mountain climb, making it accessible to those who’ve acclimatized and gained a level of fitness through previous training. Walk amid Indigenous pueblos and see wildlife grazing on the páramo (grassland).

Starting the trip from Papallacta means you can soak your muscles in one of the many beautiful outdoor thermal pools as you prepare your legs for the intense but worthwhile pounding to come.

8 of the best cycling routes in Germany

One of the best ways to discover Germany is by bike. Whether zipping around a new city, zooming along a river, winding through vineyards or circling a lake, every route offers an alternative vantage point from which to see the country.

While some trails might take a few hours to complete, others can take days, even weeks, crossing diverse landscapes and maybe even different federal states. Along the way, you’ll find fantastic guest houses and great places to eat, scenic spots to take a break, and plenty of locals following the same routes. So grab your wheels and hit the road, starting with some of our suggestions below.

A cyclist rides a bike along a riverside path towards a bridge where a train is crossing
There are good transport connections along the Berlin Wall Trail. Sylvain Sonnet/Getty Images

1. The Berlin Wall Trail (Berliner Mauerweg)

Best for history
163km (101 miles); easy

This trail in the German capital traces the former GDR border fortifications around West Berlin. Open since 2006, the easy-to-follow route mainly sticks to old patrol and border control roads, with regular signposts and maps to help you stay on track. There are also photographs and information signs at a number of points, detailing life in the divided city. At times, you’ll be highly aware of the history and significance of the journey; at others you’ll completely forget and be more focused on the nature that has returned.

Broken up into 14 sections, the route can be done in a day, or bit by bit, with good public transport links helping you dip in and out – just remember to also pay for your bike when buying a ticket. Alternatively, you can stay in the center and join a shorter bike tour along the inner-city section with a guide.

2. German Wine Cycle Route

Best for reliable weather
97km (60 miles); moderate to difficult

Starting in Bockenheim and ending in Schweigen-Rechtenbach on the French border, the popular German Wine Route runs through the heart of the Palatinate (Pfalz), one of Germany’s largest wine-growing regions. Here you’ll find vine-covered hillsides, rambling forests, picturesque hamlets and exceptional wine estates, as well as local almonds, figs and lemons thanks to the moderate climate.

The sunny weather, along with the bike-friendly infrastructure, make it easy to plan a trip here. Pop into a tourist office for various cycling maps and details on bike rentals, and be sure to plan the occasional stop at a winery or an end-of-day drink in a local tavern.

For more wine-focused routes, try the Baden Wine Cycle Route in the south west, or the Moselle Cycle Path that takes you to some of the country’s oldest and most famous wine towns.

A cyclist rides a bike along a path beside a vast castle complex
Cycle by Münsterland’s castles and stately homes on the 100 Castles Route. Sergiy Velychko/Shutterstock

3. 100 Castles Route (100-Schlösser-Route)

Best for… castles!
960km (597 miles); easy to moderate

Meandering through the Münsterland region in the state of Nordrhein-Westfalen, these four interconnecting circuits encompass a dense collection of castles, gardens, fortresses and moated estates, in a mix of Baroque, Renaissance and Gothic styles.

The loops are divided into north, south, east and west. Try the southern one (210km/130 miles) for the shortest option or the northern one (305km/190 miles) for the higher terrain of the Tecklenburger Land area. Shorter day routes are possible too, starting at around 22km (14 miles). Also don’t miss the city of Münster, itself a cycling hub with a car-free ring around the center and a well-developed network of bike lanes.

4. Hessen Railway Cycle Route (BahnRadweg Hessen)

Best for a round trip
245km (152 miles); easy to moderate

As the name suggests, this long-distance option follows disused railway lines in the state of Hessen. The route starts in Hanau, the birthplace of the Brothers Grimm, and ends in Bad Hersfeld, with additional paths making it possible to organize a round trip. You’ll pass impressive castles and monastery ruins, attractive towns, such as Lauterbach and Fulda, and the picturesque low mountain ranges of Vogelsberg and Rhön.

Thanks to gentle railway inclines and tarmac surfaces, the route is rarely strenuous. Look out for iron bridges, old train carriages and tunnels: on a stretch known as the Milseburgradweg, you’ll need to trust that the motion-sensor-controlled lights will come on as you head into a kilometer of darkness!

Cyclists ride on a path beside a river. A city with spires and domes is across the river
It takes about two weeks to complete the cycle route along the Elbe. Shutterstock

5. Elbe Cycle Route (Elberadweg)

Best for city stops
1270km (789 miles); easy to moderate

The Elbe Cycle Route covers almost 1300km and the entire length of Germany’s second-longest river. It is also one of the most-loved routes in the country according to the General German Bicycle Club (ADFC).

While the route (and the river) actually starts in Czechia, it crosses the German border close to Schöna before heading to the striking rock formations in Saxon Switzerland. From here, it’s around 40km (25 miles) to the beautifully restored city of Dresden with its Frauenkirche and Renaissance city palace. Keep going for more towns and cities, such Magdeburg, Dessau and Hamburg further north. The final destination is Cuxhaven, where the Elbe flows into the North Sea.

Due to its length, the Elbe cycle route can take around two weeks to cover in its entirety and longer if you want to make stops. As a result, many people choose to focus on certain sections, such as Dresden to Hamburg, or even Prague to Dresden. There are a number of tour companies that can book your accommodations and organize luggage transfer between stops.

6. Chiemsee Bike Route (Chiemsee Radweg)

Best of Bavaria
52km (32 miles); easy to moderate

With views of the water, the alpine foothills and high peaks beyond, this route around Bavaria’s largest lake is a must for exploring more of Germany’s southern state. Start in Übersee, reachable by train from Munich, and go either way around the shores – watching out for pedestrians who share the route. It shouldn’t take longer than half a day to complete.

You’ll see lots of places to stop for a swim and pass the main boat departure area with options to reach the islands. There are bike services and rental options in most towns along the route.

A yellow bicycle leans against wooden railings at the top of a sandy beach as the sun rises
There are plenty of chances to take a break on the beach when cycling along the Baltic Sea. Getty Images

7. Baltic Sea Cycle Route (Ostseeküsten-Radweg)

Best for families
1140km (708 miles); easy

Running between Flensburg near the Danish border and Ahlbeck on the Polish border, the German section of this coastal route tops the states of Schleswig-Holstein and Mecklenburg Western-Pomerania. Come for sand, sea, rugged coastlines and changeable weather.

Highlights include the cliffs in Rügen, the UNESCO World Heritage Sites of Wismar and Stralsund, and the city of Lübeck, known for its distinctive brick architecture and marvelous marzipan. The route is pretty flat, with plenty of options for beach breaks, making it a great option for all abilities and ages. Some people split the trip into two parts using Lübeck as the division. Alternatively, you could extend the trip by carrying on into the neighboring countries.

8. The Industrial Heritage Route (Die Route der Industriekultur per Rad)

Best for unusual architecture
700km (435 miles); easy to moderate

Germany’s Industrial Heritage Route links sites connected to the history and culture of the Ruhr region, once a major center for coal mining and steel production. Here structures such as blast furnaces and gasometers still stand, but many are now used as cultural venues, sports centers or parks. One of the best ways to visit the different spots and take in the whole landscape is by bike, with hundreds of kilometers of trails covering the area.

The two main routes are the Emscher Park Cycle Path (Emscher Park Radweg) and the Ruhr Area Circuit (Rundkurs Ruhrgebiet). The latter is almost 300km-long (186 miles) and passes steel mills, collieries and workers’ settlements, as well as some of the biggest sites in the area: UNESCO World Heritage Site Zeche Zollverein and the Gasometer Oberhausen. Paths connecting these two routes also allow you to create shorter circuits.

Coasts, Castles and Culture: Nine days on Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way

There’s no doubt about it: Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way is one of the best road trips in the world. A delightful amalgamation of wind-warped cliffs, emerald hillsides, ancient historic sites and quintessentially Irish coastal towns, this 1500-mile journey takes you through many of the island’s superlative destinations.

Follow our itinerary as we take you up the Wild Atlantic Way county-by-county, a thrilling route that encompasses adventurous hiking trails, scenic overlooks, foodie stops, history from the Bronze age to WWII, and of course, plenty of opportunities to sip a creamy pint of Guinness at the end of the day.

You can hit many of the highlights in eight or nine days, but with two weeks or more you can savor the experience from start to finish.

From our partners: Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way

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We recommend flying into Shannon Airport outside of Limerick rather than arriving in Dublin; from this gateway to the Wild Atlantic Way it’s a straight shot to the south coast and the delightful coastal town of Kinsale. Stretch your legs and grab a pastry from a cozy cafe (like Seeds Bakery) or pop over to a couple of nearby castles – James Fort and John Charles Fort sit a stone’s throw away.

From here, head west along the winding roads of County Cork, making a pit stop at Drombeg Stone Circle, a megalithic burial site overlooking a mind-bendingly green piece of Irish countryside. The site is dated between 152 BCE and 127 ACE, and it’s one of the island’s most well-preserved stone circles.

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Dromberg Stone Circle, dated between 152 BCE and 127 ACE, is one of Ireland’s most well-preserved stone circles © Bailey Freeman for Lonely Planet

Further west you’ll find Skibbereen, a market town that serves as a good base for exploring western Cork; from here it’s a quick hop to the coast, where you can hit the water with outfitters like Atlantic Sea Kayaking in Lough Hyne and H2O Sea Kayaking, which explores nearby Sherkin Island. Down the road is bohemian Ballydehob, home to bar/music venues like Levis Corner House, art studios, cafes and crafters spaces (don’t miss Kilcoe Studios or Artichoke).

Continue west to see Mizen Head, Ireland’s southernmost point, or cut north through the hill-flanked harbor town Bantry and the neighboring Caha Mountains to Kenmare, a buzzy burg that serves as a great introduction to County Kerry; if you’re in need of refreshment, stop into Kenmare Brewhouse for coffee, food and traditional tunes in the evenings.

Either spend the night here or head up to Killarney.

From our partners: Wild Atlantic Way in Cork

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For many, County Kerry is the most beautiful region in a land teeming with beauty – encompassing a deep roster of signature sights that fill itineraries far and wide.

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Muckross Abbey hides a secret yew tree within its medieval cloisters © Bailey Freeman for Lonely Planet

Start your pilgrimage to this treasured corner of Ireland in Killarney, a well-rounded town adjacent to Killarney National Park, the island’s first national park and a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. This expansive protected land contains medieval ruins (Muckross Abbey), polished estates (Muckross House) and miles of trails tracing ancient forests and imposing mountains, all abutting the scenic lakes that run through its core.

After you’ve soaked up the park’s vistas, head for one of Ireland’s most famed routes, the Ring of Kerry, to dig into the countryside. Explore villages and beaches along the way (we’re partial to Sneem and Derrynane Beach), before following the narrow, walled roads of the Skellig Ring. Here, you’ll experience the rush of standing on the towering Cliffs of Kerry and the views of the galactically famous Skellig Islands – as pictured in Star Wars: The Force Awakens and Star Wars: The Last Jedi.

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The towering Cliffs of Kerry are one of the most beloved sights in all of Ireland © Bailey Freeman for Lonely Planet

Make your way back onto the Ring of Kerry and head around the peninsula to access the stone forts near Cahersiveen, which are thought to be from the Iron Age or the Early Historic Period. From there, drive north and swing onto the Dingle Peninsula, crashing in friendly Dingle Town before commencing the next leg of your adventure. Shop for art from local makers and grab some seafood from The Fish Box or Michelin-recognized Out of the Blue before bedding down for the night.

From our partners: A trip around the Ring of Kerry

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Dingle Peninsula has everything – epic coasts, sweeping green hills, tons of cultural stops – and you can sample it all on a single, relatively short loop known as the Slea Head Drive.

Things start relaxed with Ventry Beach and a few historic sites (including beehive huts), but the peninsula puts on a show once you pass the oft-photographed white cross at its southwestern corner: stop at Coumeenoole Beach and Dunquin Pier to admire the dramatic rock faces and the nearby Blasket Islands. Don’t miss the Blasket Center, a lovingly curated museum highlighting the island village that existed on Great Blasket until the 1950s; the community was famous among linguists as an important enclave for the Irish language, and despite its tiny size, it churned out several published authors.

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Some things are favorites for a reason, and the Cliffs of Moher’s scalloped silhouettes definitely wow you © Robert Ormerod for Lonely Planet

The loop’s return takes you back to Dingle town – from there you’ll swing north across the spectacular Conor Pass, Ireland’s highest mountain pass (the best photo op is at the parking lot on the Dingle side). And then its onwards to County Clare, hooking back up past Limerick and over to the island’s best known section of coastline, the Cliffs of Moher. Some things are favorites for a reason, and the cliffs’ scalloped silhouettes definitely wow you; plus, it’s interesting to see how they compare to the Cliffs of Kerry and Sliabh Liag (more on that one later).

Several nearby towns offer respite after a long day of driving. We like Ennistymon, a charming town centered around a tiered waterfall with the elegant Falls Hotel at its base.

From our partners: 72 hours in Ireland’s stunning southwest

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From Ennistymon, it’s on to the region known as the Burren. An ancient seabed revealed and shaped by the elements, this limestone landscape ripples and folds like it was molded by magical forces. It’s home to 70 percent of Ireland’s plant species (including 23 types of orchid), and these tiny miracles reveal themselves between the cracks in the stone: purple orchids, cowslip, purple gentian, shrubby cinquefoil and more. Hike the trails of Burren National Park to experience this region in high definition; the view from Mullaghmore Peak is wondrous.

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Gurteen Bay, located near Roundstone, mesmerizes visitors with its pristine sandy beaches and stunning views of the Atlantic © Robert Ormerod for Lonely Planet

After you’ve experienced the magic of the Burren on the trails, head to Burren Perfumery, which makes original fragrances inspired by the region’s flora. Spend some extra time here to sample treats from the adorable tearoom, which serves tea made with garden-grown herbs, top-tier sweets and a short lunch menu – order the pistachio rose cake immediately.

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The Burren Perfumery and tea room makes original fragrances inspired by the region’s flora © Robert Ormerod for Lonely Planet

The Burren region is also home to plentiful remnants of human history dating to the Stone Age; stops include stone forts like Caherconnell (worth a visit for its sheepdog demonstration, too), passage tombs like the famous Poulnabrone Dolmen and medieval ruins like moody Corcomroe Abbey, constructed in 1194.

From there, make your way to the spirited cultural hub of Galway city – spend some time decompressing along the canal, sample the fish cakes and oysters at Hooked and settle in for an evening of traditional music at the famous Crane Bar.

From our partners: The Burren

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We’re off to the famed mountains of Connemara, a region known for its green marble, its unique breed of ponies and, of course, its gorgeous landscape.

Head west from Galway, stopping in at the Spiddal craft village to meet potters, jewelry makers and traditional basket weavers. In keeping with the craft theme, loop around this lake-studded part of Ireland until you get to the seaside town of Roundstone, home to Roundstone Music & Craft; here you’ll meet local legend Malachy Kearns, a drum maker who has been building bodhráns (traditional Irish drums) for nearly 50 years. He’s a born storyteller, so stay a while and learn about how he worked with Riverdance creators to develop the production’s signature drum.

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Roundstone’s Malachy Kearns has been building bodhráns (traditional Irish drums) for nearly 50 years © Robert Ormerod for Lonely Planet

It’s a short drive to the heart of the Connemara region – cute Clifden provides a staging point for cycling on the scenic Sky Road or around Erislannon, where you can also ride the famous Connemara ponies. The town is also a short hop from Kylemore Abbey, a castle-turned-monastery that offers daily tours through its manicured grounds.

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Connemara ponies, known for their intelligence, versatility, and gentle nature, are a cherished breed native to the rugged Connemara region © Robert Ormerod for Lonely Planet

If you want to get closer to the mountains themselves, make your way to Connemara National Park; the climb up to Diamond Peak reveals sweeping views of the mountain-bog combo that defines the ecology of this area. You won’t be alone on the trail, but the company doesn’t detract from the views.

There are several options for overnighting close by: head back to Clifden or opt for B&Bs in Letterfrack and Renvyle.

From our partners: Connemara

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Hope you got a good night’s sleep – it’s a big day! Hit the road to County Mayo, a scenic route around the mountain-lined Killary Fjord that takes you up through the Doo Lough Valley, an area of immense natural beauty.

Once you exit the valley, circle back on country roads to the glorious Silver Strand; a walk across the flat expanse of sand reveals rocky promontories home to tidepools full of thriving critters. Silver Strand is one of Mayo’s many sandy beaches; if you’ve got a flexible schedule, take your time discovering them all.

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From top left; Keem Bay; Slievemore Deserted Village; and views from the Wild Atlantic Way drive through County Mayo © Robert Ormerod for Lonely Planet

Next is the drive north to Westport, a colorful town that sits at the heart of a sophisticated bike network – you’ll be sharing the road with lots of cyclists, so stay alert at the wheel. Grab lunch (like the lovely beetroot sandwich at Kaska’s) and jump back in the car to make your way to Achill Island. Part beach resort, part history museum, part nature park, Achill has something for everyone: check out the Kildavnet Tower (an outpost belonging to Grace O’ Malley, Ireland’s famed “Pirate Queen”), spot a basking shark at the cliff-lined Keel and Keem beaches, or wander the ghostly remains of a village vacated during the famine of 1845-1852.

Drive back up to the mainland and hit N95, which takes you up the Ballycroy side of the Wild Nephin National Park. If you’ve got energy left, go for a short walk on the lovely Claggan Mountain Coastal Trail, a well-kept boardwalk hovering over Ireland’s coastal boglands.

Overnight in or around Sligo for the perfect starting point for your next leg.

From our partners: Explore from Westport, County Mayo

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After covering some serious real estate through County Mayo, you’re due for a more relaxed day and the area around Sligo is just the ticket. Strandhill, just 15 minutes from Sligo’s center, delivers excellent surf town energy; sit on the plaza wall to watch surfers glide along the waves, or grab a board yourself and hit the water with Strandhill Surf School. Looking for something more low-key? Go full mermaid and book a seaweed bath at Voya Seaweed Baths, a local tradition dating back hundreds of years.

Pop into Sligo town to get your bearings before making the short drive to Drumcliffe Church; one of Ireland’s most famous sons, WB Yeats, is laid to rest here, and the atmospheric churchyard has been lovingly preserved; there’s also an airy cafe and local art shop on site. From here, we recommend the Benbulben Forest Walk, a leisurely trail with staggering views of the iconic flat-top mountain that defines the region’s “skyline;” the path also takes you through wondrous sections of forest and offers top-down vistas of the coast.

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Gleniff Horseshoe is a prehistoric-feeling valley encased in vertical cliffs © Bailey Freeman for Lonely Planet

If you can’t get enough of the region’s unique mountain scenery, take a spin over to Gleniff Horseshoe, a prehistoric-feeling valley encased in vertical cliffs straight out of a fantasy world. Drive around the one-lane loop at its heart and pop into the Gleniff Barytes Mill Site, a charming stop that pulls double duty as a historic site and sculpture park – see if you can find the fairy doors.

Donegal town is your final destination for the day. If you’re a history buff, arrive with enough time to tour the Donegal Castle; shoppers, make a beeline for Magee 1866 for a piece of your own iconic Donegal tweed. There are lodging options in town, but we recommend checking out the B&Bs around nearby Lough Eske for a scenic place to rest your head.

From our partners: County Sligo

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As we enter the sprint to the finish on the Wild Atlantic Way, County Donegal pulls out all the stops. From Donegal town, head west to Sliabh Liag, Ireland’s tallest accessible cliffs and this writer’s absolute favorite. The nearly 2,000-foot-tall cliffs boggle the mind – both the roadside walk to the viewpoint and the trail winding up and over the cliff faces deliver Donegal writ large.

Once you come down from your Sliabh Liag-induced adrenaline spike, make your way through the astonishing Glengesh Pass to Maghera Beach, home to its namesake caves and some of the most beautiful beach views on the Wild Atlantic Way. Note: bring €3 for parking and do not explore the caves without checking the tides first, as they are only safe to access when the tide is out.

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From top left, Glenveagh Castle Gardens and Glenveagh Park © Robert Ormerod for Lonely Planet

From here, head inland to the northernmost national park on Ireland’s western side: Glenveagh National Park. Situated around a glaciated valley in the Derryveagh Mountains, the park is a serene place to explore – history buffs will enjoy Glenveagh Castle, accessible by park shuttle booked upon arrival, while hikers can choose from a few different trails that wind through the glen and its hillsides.

Nearby Letterkenny is the county’s largest town and a good place to base yourself for your final day on the road: grab dinner at The Yellow Pepper and stop in for some music at McGinley’s.

From our partners: Donegal’s northern headlands

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This is it: your last day on the Way. Head north to Five Finger Strand for your final glimpse of Ireland’s signature windswept beaches before crossing the finish line at Malin Head, the island’s northernmost point. Walk the trails of the promontory to see the Atlantic crash against weather-ravaged cliffs, and loop back up to the signal tower dating from the early 1800s for a dose of history. You’ll spy the “Eire 80” sign that was placed here to let WWII pilots know they were passing over neutral Ireland.

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Malin Head is the most northerly point of mainland Ireland, located on the Inishowen peninsula in County Donegal © Robert Ormerod for Lonely Planet

After you’ve had your fill of final Atlantic views, it’s time to circle back down to Shannon and Limerick for departure, a five-hour drive. Once there, say goodbye to your epic journey with a pint at Treaty City Brewing, located in the town’s fascinating Medieval Quarter adjacent to King John’s Castle, and a meal overlooking the River Shannon at The Curragower.

From our partners: Discover King John’s Castle

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Classibawn Castle sits alongside the pounding ocean on the Wild Atlantic Way © Bailey Freeman for Lonely Planet

Things to know about driving the Wild Atlantic Way

  • Ireland is spectacular to visit any time of year, but traveling in fall usually means fewer crowds, mild weather, stunning landscapes and cozy stops.

  • Double check your car insurance before heading out – you may need to purchase additional policies from your rental company upon arrival.

  • Sections of the drive are on narrow country roads that feature some blind corners. That’s part of the fun! But drive with care.

  • Be sure to top up your tank whenever you get the chance. American drivers: unleaded gas is labeled green while diesel is labeled black, opposite to the colors at home.

You might also like: Epicurean adventures along the Wild Atlantic Way

The best places in Asia for women traveling solo

Traveling alone is a uniquely personal experience: It offers great freedom to step out of your comfort zone, try new things, and make lifelong friendships. As a woman who frequently travels alone, finding the right destination for a solo adventure also helps ensure a good experience. And, while as an Asian I may be biased toward this vast continent, I think visitors to this region will find incredible travel experiences that blend modern infrastructure with old-world charm. 

During my slow and solo travels across Asia, I’ve focused mostly on culture, food, the outdoors and nature. I’ve felt safe and welcomed and been continuously inspired to see and experience more. Here are six of the best places in Asia that are well-suited for women traveling solo, and two that are on my short list of where I’ll head next. 

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Although popular with tourists, Luang Prabang remains authentically Lao and a safe city to visit. Todd Brown/Getty Images

1. Luang Prabang, Laos

I consider myself lucky to have been to Luang Prabang enough times to have grown familiar with the Unesco-listed town’s slow rhythm of life. (Plus, the local BBQ evenings they’ve taken me to are a real treat!) When I recently spent several weeks in Luang Prabang on assignment, it easily became one of my favorite solo travel experiences. There’s hardly anything more magical than watching the sun go down over the Mekong River, either on a boat tour or from one of the cafes that line the waterfront.

Luang Prabang is tourist-centered and locals are extremely friendly, outgoing and chatty, which makes it easier to make friends. I felt completely safe walking alone in the old town, even at night, and you can cycle, hop on a tuk-tuk or book a Loca (Laos’ ride-hailing app) taxi to nearby villages.

Some highlights of my time include swimming in the Kuang Si Falls, and climbing Mount Phou Si for sunset. I also did the most interactive food tour here with Lao chef Somsack Sengta at the morning market and took a ferry across the Mekong to Lao Pottery House, to see how local potters preserve an age-old tradition.

If you’ve extra days, cycle across the Nam Khan River to Ban Xang Khong village, to see generational artisans at work, crafting handmade paper or weaving silk.

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Book yourself into a class, like traditional paper making, as a fun way to meet locals as well as other travelers. Zinara Rathnayake for Lonely Planet

2. Chiang Mai, Thailand

Chiang Mai is one of Thailand’s popular tourist destinations, but it’s a far cry from Bangkok’s daily hubbub. Located in the northern countryside surrounded by forested trails, waterfalls and terraced rice paddies, Chiang Mai is a vibrant blend of Buddhist temples, a thriving coffee scene, food markets and welcoming locals who are ready to patiently help while you stumble over common, everyday Thai phrases.

Once you’ve sufficiently explored the ancient town, or center of the city, book yourself into a cooking class, which usually includes an introductory market tour. There, you’ll learn how to whip up a bowl of khao soi (a coconut curry noodle dish from Northern Thailand) while making new friends. While there, explore the Bang Kang Wat artist village (it’s also a great place to base yourself); hike the Monk’s Trail to Wat Phra Doi Suthep at sunrise; day-trip to Thailand’s highest mountain Doi Inthanon; aimlessly meander through the weekend markets like Jing Jai where local artists sell ceramics, clothes, handmade notebooks and stone jewelry.

A train passes through a railway bridge in Manroe Island on October 15, 2017 in Kollam,Kerala, India.
No matter where you go, India will bring memorable experiences, including traveling in Kerala. Shutterstock

3. Kerala, India

With a population of more than 1.4 billion and a reputation for being crowded and somewhat chaotic, India can be an intimidating destination for even the most seasoned solo travelers. Still, if you know where to go, the country promises an unmatched level of diversity, local cuisine loaded with fresh seafood and incredible seasonal produce and the most warm and friendly locals. 

Kerala in South India is one of my favorite places to visit, and a great spot to start any solo journey. The best – and the safest – way to explore the area is to stay in homestays with local families. Find them on Kerala Tourism; just remember to read reviews and do your research to be sure the host you choose fits your personality. Overall, though, the Kerala custom is to shower guests with a kind of hospitality hard to match elsewhere.  I spent a week in Aymanam, the village of Booker Prize-winning author Arundhati Roy, boating through the backwaters where pink lotus bloom early in the morning and being fed fried fish with every meal by my host grandma. Take your time to wander through the historic Fort Kochi; chase monsoon-fed waterfalls in interior jungles; and watch sunsets in the beach town Varkala. Remember to dress modestly to respect the local customs.

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Zinara recommends homestays for solo women travelers: here with her host in Bhutan. Zinara Rathnayake for Lonely Planet

4. Bhutan

I met many other women traveling solo during my trip to Bhutan and almost all of them had one thing in common: Bhutan was their first solo travel destination. According to the country’s international tourist policy, guides are mandatory while traveling through most of the country. Since all guides and drivers are vetted by the Bhutanese government, it makes it easier, safer and more rewarding to explore this Himalayan Buddhist kingdom surrounded by temples, fluttering prayer flags and the aroma of burning incense.

Almost everyone who visits Bhutan hikes to Paro Taktsang or the Tiger’s Nest, a sacred site nestled on a dramatic cliff. But don’t skip subtropical valleys like Punakha, where you can visit the Chimi Lhakhang (also called the Temple of Fertility). In Phobjikha, a glacial valley where black-necked cranes from Tibet arrive in hundreds during the winter months, you can tour the 17th-century Gangtey Monastery with ornate wood carvings and Buddhist imagery.

For a more local experience, stay at Kinley Choden’s Mendrelgang Homestay to experience the Bhutanese love for chili peppers. It’s the country’s indispensable vegetable and almost everything in Bhutan is cooked with chili, like the national dish ema datshi (chili and cheese).

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The Maldives is not all luxury resorts: you can explore more via dhoni (a traditional wooden passenger ferry) and bicycle. John Seaton Callahan/Getty Images

5. The Maldives

Most people think the only way to explore the Maldives is to stay on a resort island – or that it’s only a honeymoon destination. This is, in fact, not true. While I sometimes love a vacation where I can pamper myself, my favorite way to experience the Maldives is to stay on a local island. On your solo trip to the Maldives you could split your time between a resort and a local guesthouse.

There are 188 inhabited islands in the Maldives, and many of them now have guesthouses and boutique hotels that are more budget-friendly than the well-known resorts. My favorite is Dhigurah, a stunningly beautiful island with a long sandbank on Alif Dhaal Atoll. Home to whale sharks year-round, it’s a great place to explore the marine world with local guides. You should also go on a sunset fishing tour on a dhoni (a traditional wooden vessel) and cycle through the island to see the Maldivian life where fishermen offload onto the shore their daily catch. Local islands now have designated powdery-sand beaches where you can slip into your swimwear, but remember to dress modestly, covering your knees and shoulders while in public spaces.

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Feast your way around Singapore, a city also blessed with confluence of food influences. Jirath Ninchaikovit/Unsplash

6. Singapore

Singapore is sometimes overlooked as a layover on a long-haul journey, but I recommend staying a few days to explore this incredible place. As one of Asia’s most economically developed countries, Singapore has an efficient, clean and safe public transportation system called Mass Rapid Transit (MRT), as well as a robust pedestrian and cycling culture.  

There’s plenty to do, too, from feasting on hawker stall food in Chinatown and visiting vibrant Hindu temples in Little India to shopping at famous Orchard Road, snapping photos of the Peranakan terrace houses and visiting the Marina Bay Sands. Don’t forget to grab a spot, lie down and watch the light show at Gardens by the Bay at night when Instagram-famous architectural greenhouses come to life in illuminating color. If you are on a budget, stay in hostels to cut costs.

On my bucket list…

Pedestrians on stairs at the seaside mountain town of Jiufen.
Inspired by social media, Zinara hopes to visit the mountainside town of Jiufen in Taiwan next. Shutterstock

Taiwan

Ever since I saw a few TikTok videos of Jiufen, a charming old town with winding narrow alleyways lined up with teahouses and boutiques, I’ve been wanting to visit Taiwan. It’s on my bucket list for its incredible food, scenic cycling routes, eclectic night markets and cool hangouts. (I’ve been eyeing the Huashan 1914 Creative Park.) There’s also more to do beyond Taipei, like visiting the stunning Taroko Gorge or Tainan with its historic temples and old streets. And, with an efficient train system, the country seems perfect for my slow travels.

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Samarkand’s most beloved site is this stunning avenue of mausoleums, including Shah-i-Zinda (Tomb of the Living King). Getty Images

Uzbekistan

In recent years, Uzbekistan has emerged as a cultural tourist destination with historic architecture, bustling bazaars and a thriving art and crafts scene that includes ceramics, pottery and ancient silk paper making. I’ve seen my fellow writer friends travel through the country with so much ease while having the time of their lives. They’ve all told me that Uzbeks are some of the most welcoming people, who’d not shy away from inviting you over for a meal.

In terms of culture, there’s so much to see and do from Tashkent’s markets and Samarkand’s Registan Square – the center of Timurid Renaissance – to tasting local plov, Uzbekistan’s national rice and meat dish. I can’t wait to travel through the historic Silk Road cities of Bukhara and Khiva and navigate Tashkent’s subway, stopping at some of its remarkable metro stations.

Copy my trip: Great Bear Rainforest

As a northern Albertan, I grew up with bears in my backyard – and I mean that quite literally. During the summer and fall, they’d frequently wander into our unfenced yard to gorge on crab apples. 

But for my Australian partner, they remained an enigma. 

“I’m beginning to believe that Canadians are just making bears up,” she lamented on her fourth trip to Canada without seeing so much as a bear butt. 

So, when we got invited to a September wedding in British Columbia, I knew the timing was perfect to change that. I booked us a stay at the historic Tweedsmuir Park Lodge in the traditional territory of Nuxalk and Ulkatcho First Nations. Situated in BC’s Great Bear Rainforest – a remote region northwest of Vancouver – it’s renowned for its grizzly bear watching. 

Within 20 minutes of arrival, we saw our first grizzly. There was no question: This trip was going to make my partner a true bear-liever. 

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The views on the drive up to the Great Bear Rainforest through Bella Coola are astonishing. Jessica Lockhart for Lonely Planet

During the autumn months, the main activity in the Great Bear Rainforest is (not surprisingly) grizzly bear watching

Calling all Fat Bear Week enthusiasts: This is your opportunity to see the chonkiest of bears get even thicker. 

There are a number of grizzly bear watching lodges in BC, but what makes Tweedsmuir Park Lodge stand out is its location. Situated deep in the Bella Coola Valley at the confluence of the Atnarko and the Bella Coola rivers, the steep surrounding cliffs create a natural corridor that funnels bear through it as they fish for salmon. 

The prime time to see them is during the salmon run from mid-August to mid-October. This when upwards of 800,000 chinook, chum, ocho, pink and sockeye salmon migrate upstream to spawn. At Tweedsmuir, bears can be seen fattening up for hibernation (technically torpor) in the Atnarko River, which runs along the property’s edge. None of the bears are tagged or collared, but with 1.2 bears per kilometer, the valley has one of the densest grizzly bear populations in BC, so chances of seeing one are high. However, I’d still recommend a three-night stay to maximize your chances. 

Your trip may even help contribute to their conservation. On a guided walk through the bush, bear-whisperer-in-residence Ellie Lamb said that their popularity with visitors helped end the grizzly bear trophy hunt in 2017. 

“Tourism is the most incredible contributor to these bears,” she said.  

a group of cabins with rocky mountains behind Tweedsmuir
Guests at the Tweedsmuir Park Lodge stay in cabins at the base of mountains. Jessica Lockhart for Lonely Planet

 You don’t have to stay at a luxe lodge to see the bears

Tweedsmuir Park Lodge has a dedicated wildlife watching stand, but it’s also not unheard of to see bears right through the windows of your cabin. We even saw one eating a salmon while we sat in the main lodge indulging in a three-course lunch. (Really, is there any greater pleasure in life than watching wild animals eat while you eat?)  

However, you don’t have to stay at one of the area’s lodges to spot the big brown bears. If you choose to stay in one of the handful of motels or Airbnbs, there are also public viewing areas, including the Berlako Wildlife Viewing Area off Highway 20. Just make sure to bring a camp chair, insect repellent, a book or something to do while you wait (there’s no cell phone reception) and a fair amount of patience. 

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A river drift experience allows you to see bears enjoying their salmon catch from a very personal perspective. Jessica Lockhart for Lonely Planet

My favorite activity was the river drift

While it’s amazing to see bears from the riverbanks, there’s nothing quite like seeing them from directly on the water. We watched one bear, Ivory (named for her white claws), as she walked just a few feet from our boat, snacking on about 15 fish along the way. It was just part of her calorie count for the day; during peak season, grizzlies can catch up to 50 salmon a day. 

My partner watched in rapt horror and awe as Ivory bit into a salmon and fish eggs exploded everywhere. (Don’t feel bad for the salmon; they die shortly after spawning anyway. Not pictured: The thousands of dead fish we also saw. Gosh, isn’t science neat?) Ivory’s power was on display, but it was hard to feel fearful. Instead, I found myself relating deeply to her snack strategy. Really, she was just enjoying a solid girl dinner. 

If you've ever considered rock climbing, the via ferrata at Tweedsmuir makes it accessible for most people. Jessica Lockhart for Lonely Planet
If you ever considered rock climbing, the via ferrata at Tweedsmuir makes it accessible for most people. Jessica Lockhart for Lonely Planet

The best spot to gain a better understanding of the Bella Coola Valley’s unique ecology is from the top of the via ferrata. 

Grizzly bear watching usually tops everyone’s list, but if you’ve got time for another activity, Tweedsmuir Park Lodge’s via ferrata is probably next on the list. This series of iron rungs makes rock climbing accessible to even kids – and from the top, you can see how the valley funnels bears through it, with bald eagles soaring high above.

The bear necessities? Download a solid playlist or podcast for your drive.

It’s possible to access Bella Coola (the closest major town to the Tweedsmuir Park Lodge) via a daily 70-minute flight from Vancouver, but if time is on your side, there’s nothing like a road trip through beautiful British Columbia. 

From Vancouver, there are two options: The first is driving north on Vancouver Island, then catching the ferry from Port Hardy to Bella Coola. It’s more scenic, but more expensive (due to ferry tickets) and time-intensive.

The second option is to stick to the mainland. It’s about a 12-hour drive, but will take you through some of BC’s most varied landscapes – from the snow-capped peaks and oceans vistas of the Sea-to-Sky Highway, to the deserts and sandstone canyons of the Cariboo Chilcotin region. 

In total, it took us two days to drive the 1000-kilometer (621-mile) distance – including tackling the misleadingly named “Hill.” A particularly hairy section of gravel road, it drops from the Heckman Pass (1524m/5000 ft) down to the valley floor and features grades of 18%, making it one of the steepest public roads in North America. Oh, and did I mention there are no guardrails?  

But my biggest regret was not downloading more playlists or podcasts before we set out, since cell phone reception is all but non-existent west of Williams Lake. 

I’d also recommend packing a picnic lunch for the road, as eating options along the way are largely limited to fast food joints and gas stations. 

 The best souvenir I snagged was a bottle of gin. 

To break up our drive, we overnighted at the Fairmont Chateau Whistler, where we started our day with a sunrise soak in the hot tubs before hitting the road. This is also where we picked our favorite souvenir from the trip – a bottle of Blackcomb Gin. Made with BC hops, cedar tips and orris root, it tasted distinctly like the Pacific Northwest.

On our drive back from Tweedsmuir Park Lodge, we managed to spot a bonus black bear lounging in the sunny meadow. Now, there’s no way my girlfriend can say she doesn’t believe in bears. But her favorite Canadian animal? It’s still a squirrel. Fortunately, the Great Bear Rainforest has plenty of those, too.

Jessica Lockhart visited Tweedsmuir Park Lodge at the invitation of Destination BC and Fairmont Chateau Whistler at the invite of Fairmont. Lonely Planet does not accept freebies for positive coverage.

The best places to visit in September 2024

September is a superb time to hit the road. The great shoulder season of travel offers prime conditions for exploring a vast array of big-name destinations for food and drink, culture, relaxation or simply an incredible journey. So whether you want to laze on uncrowded Mediterranean sands, venture through South American rainforests or explore incredible culture in Central Asia, September has something to suit every type of explorer.

Where are the best places to travel to in September for relaxation?

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Less bugs in September make it the best month to experience the immersive nature in Isle Royale © iStock

Isle Royale, Michigan, USA

Why now? To get well and truly away from everyone.

Isle Royale, in Michigan, is the least-visited national park in the lower 48. It’s closed completely for almost half the year and, when it does open, is only accessible via floatplane or non-car ferry, exclusively attracting those keen for a wilderness immersion by boat, kayak or on foot. It’s well worth the effort, though.

The park is a wetland wonderland, comprising one large, forest-swathed island and some 450 smaller ones, jutting into Lake Superior; an International Biosphere Reserve, it’s the realm of otters, moose and wolves, herons, hawks and loons. September is less busy and less buggy than peak summer, but still warm enough to paddle, trek and wild camp. There are 272km (169 miles) of trails to explore – experienced hikers will lust after the tough 150km (93-mile) Wonderland Trail. Kayakers can explore the eastern shore’s inland lakes and fjord-like bays – Malone Bay to McCargoe Cove makes a good multi-day adventure.

Utah’s mighty five are also incredible in September if you’re looking for a big nature road trip.

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View of the Tersane and the beach by the coast of Alanya. © iStock

Southwest Turkey

Why now? For a final summer fling.

As summer segues into fall, what could be more alluring than a last shot of sunshine on the tantalizingly named Turquoise Coast? Turkey’s Mediterranean shore is much quieter now that the school holidays have ended – but the water is still balmy, the air still warm and the historic sites – of which there are many to lure you off your lounger – are still open.

Where you head depends on your taste. Lagoon-side Ölüdeniz is the top choice for paragliding. At Patara, combine endless-seeming swathes of golden sand with a hint of Christmas: this was the birthplace of St Nicholas (aka Santa). Or head for sleepy Çıralı, a protected area where sea turtles nest – from mid-September you might see the hatchlings emerge. To really get away from it all, opt for the stretch of coast east of Alanya. Once the refuge of pirates, few foreign tourists make it here. The seaside resort of Kızkalesi has an authentically Turkish feel plus fine beaches, caves to explore and an imposing 12th-century castle, floating out at sea.

Where are the best places to travel to in September for wildlife and nature?

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September in Namibia means the water holes are getting smaller, so animals are much easier to see © Elena Saurius & Dani Rex / Stocksy

Namibia

Why now? For great game.

Desert-dominated Namibia is a pretty arid place at the best of times. And September is the best of times – at least if you’ve come looking for the country’s big game. Temperatures are on the up this month (making early safari wake-up calls less chilly), but there likely hasn’t been a drop of rain for months, meaning thin vegetation and wildlife congregating at an ever-decreasing number of water sources. Spotting everything from elephants to the long-nosed elephant shrew, from cheetahs to rare black rhinos becomes a doddle in these conditions – especially in game-packed areas such as Etosha National Park. You don’t even need a guide: Etosha’s excellent road network makes a self-drive safari simple; just park next to a waterhole and wait for the wildlife to arrive.

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Guyana is one of those less visited bucket list destinations that you should absolutely book ©Tim Snell / 500px

Guyana

Why now? Admire roaring waterfalls and rainforest wildlife.

Guyana is an extraordinary land, where turtles nest on shell beaches, jaguars stalk the rainforest, giant otters frolic and huge harpy eagles soar over thundering waterfalls. Its climate is also extraordinary, with multiple rainy seasons hitting the coast and interior at different times. September is a junction month, when most of the country is dry after the heavy rains, making road travel easier and life more comfortable in general, but with jungles at their lushest.

The big-ticket attraction is Kaieteur Falls, which plummets 226m (741ft) in a single drop into the depths of the rainforest. Add to that the canopy walkway and wildlife of Iwokrama, ecolodges offering encounters with Makushi Indigenous peoples, the otters of the Rupununi and the cowboys of vast Dadanawa Ranch, and you have an epic adventure in the making. Start planning your trip with this first-time guide to Guyana.

Where are the best places to travel to in September for culture?

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There is nothing like a pub tour of Dublin. Temple Bar is a popular first stop © Larry Mcguirk / Shutterstock

Dublin, Ireland

Why now? Get a taste of the city on the Liffey in the mellowest season.

Dublin in September, often the sunniest month, sees a diminishing number of tourists after the crowds of July and August have dispersed. This city is many things to many people. Yes, you’ll find lively pubs (and they deserve detailed examination), historic marvels, humor and national pride – but Dublin is also a cultural powerhouse, boasting magnificent galleries and museums, notably Dublin Castle’s Chester Beatty Library, one of Europe’s finest. During September, too, the Irish capital welcomes hundreds of arts performances during the fortnight-long Dublin Fringe Festival.

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September is the prime time to learn more about Mongolian culture with festivals held yearly in the fall © Getty Images

Altai Mountains, Mongolia

Why now? Learn about the skills and lifestyles of traditional eagle hunters.

In the breathless Altai Mountains at the very center of the Asian landmass, four borders converge – this is where Russia, China, Kazakhstan and Mongolia lean in towards one another. And among those peaks in western Mongolia, Kazakh nomads maintain the ancient tradition of hunting with golden eagles – a legacy celebrated during festivals in Altai, Ülgii and Sagsai in September and October each year, when eagle hunters don customary garb and display their prowess with the majestic raptors.

This pleasantly cool, dry season is also ideal for exploring the mountains of Altai Tavan Bogd National Park, hiking between waterfalls, ancient petroglyphs and glistening lakes – trek with Bactrian camels or ride Mongolian horses for extra authenticity, bedding down in gers (yurts) as local peoples have for millennia. During the festivals, dozens of hunters clad in animal skins, with huge fur-lined hats and colorfully embroidered clothes, demonstrate their skills between bouts of wrestling, archery contests, camel races and boisterous horseback goatskin tug-o-war.

Where are the best places to travel to in September for food and drink?

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Stop by a roadside farm stand to get the best of autumn in Nova Scotia. © Jack Pearce for Lonely Planet

Nova Scotia, Canada

Why now? To fill up in fall.

The start of the season of mellow fruitfulness is ideal for taking a foodie tour around Nova Scotia, the most delicious of the Maritimes. First, seek out succulent seafood: try scallops from the Bay of Fundy (where over-summering whales may still be spotted), eat a lobster roll by the beach (head to Barrington, “Lobster Capital of Canada”) and slurp an oyster or two, perhaps at the Halifax Oyster Festival (held late September).

Then, as the harvest gets underway, sample local wines. Boutique vineyards pepper the province, from the Annapolis Valley’s Domaine de Grand Pré, the granddaddy of Nova Scotian wine (open daily June–September), to Benjamin Bridge, which produces acclaimed fizz in the Gaspereau Valley. And don’t forget the fruit: this month brings gluts of blueberries and apples, which find their way into delicious pies province-wide. Here are our 11 favorite places to visit in Nova Scotia to eat and play.

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Walk or hike between wineries and catch the harvest in September © duchy / Shutterstock

Burgundy, France

Why now? For a delicious drop.

The Route des Grands Crus (the “road of great wines”) cuts through Burgundy’s most acclaimed grape-growing country. Running 60km (38 miles) from Dijon and Beaune to Santenay, it’s a most intoxicating byway, flanked by 38 winsome villages and almost 1250 climats – the region’s precisely demarcated vineyard plots, each with a unique terroir.

Tiny Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, from where the world’s most expensive reds hail, is here. In September, you might catch the harvest in progress. And, with average highs of 20°C (68°F), it will be warm enough to use the hiking and biking trails that weave between wineries or to happily sit outside a pavement cafe sipping a Côte de Nuits pinot noir or buttery chardonnay. Consider basing yourself in beautiful Beaune, home to the spectacular Hôtel-Dieu (venue of the annual, all-important Burgundy wine auction), numerous wine merchants’ houses and cellar doors, and many Michelin-starred restaurants.

Where are the best places to travel to in September for adventure?

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There are 30+ sites to dive into along the Aqba coast © davidevison / Getty Images

Red Sea, Jordan

Why now? To dive into delectable waters.

As the stifling heat of the Jordanian summer begins to drop, things really heat up along the Red Sea coast. September and October are among the best months to dive here, with the air temperature hot but bearable, and the oh-so-clear water around a balmy 26°C (79°F) and jam-packed with activity: look out for eagle rays, moray eels, seahorses, turtles, lionfish and an array of other colorful fishes – over 510 species have been recorded.

There are 30-plus dive sites along the Aqaba coast, most close to shore and many good for snorkeling, too. These range from shallow coral gardens and gaping canyons to shipwrecks, including that of the Cedar Pride, which sits at a depth of just 7–25m (23–82ft). Good-value learn-to-dive courses are available in Aqaba and resorts along the coast.

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The train in New Zealand keeps you insulated from the chill so you can admire the views © vkp-australia / Getty Images

New Zealand

Why now? Enjoy ravishing views from the rails.

With snow still sprinkled on the mountain tops but lambs a-gamboling in the fields, spring-green September can be a month of natural splendor in Aotearoa, with few other tourists around. If you’re worried the weather might still be a little cool and unpredictable, opt to explore by Rail New Zealand’s scenic lines – that way you’ll be insulated from the chill, and free to gaze out the window as the countryside glides by.

Start aboard the Northern Explorer, which connects Auckland and Wellington via fertile farmland, Tongariro’s volcanoes and the Raurimu Spiral – an impressive feat of rail engineering. Take the ferry to the South Island and then pick up the Coastal Pacific to trace the shoreline from Picton to elegant Christchurch. Then join the Tranz Alpine to cross the Canterbury Plains and Southern Alps (via lofty Arthurs Pass) and finish at Greymouth, on the east coast.