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The 8 best budget ski resorts in Europe this winter

Europe has some of the world’s most stunning mountains, whether it’s the ones that form the Mont Blanc Massif, straddling the border between Italy and France, or the often overlooked peaks in Spain’s Sierra Nevada region.

As someone who’s conquered many of the continent’s steepest peaks, whether it’s with former Olympians or friends teaching their kids to ski for the first time, I’ve developed a knack for knowing how to get the most bang for your buck from a ski holiday.

It’s a myth that resorts offering brilliant value are only found in ultra-remote destinations with a handful of ski lifts built 50 years ago. After all, skiing on a budget isn’t simply about paying as little as possible (if it was, we’d all just stay at home), but getting the best ski holiday for your hard-earned cash.

I’ve gathered together the best of Europe’s top budget ski resorts and also included a couple of big hitters – larger resorts that might cost slightly more than the region’s cheapest, but which are still fantastic options for skiers on a budget.

1. Sestriere, Italy

Best overall value for money

Average daily price of a lift pass: €28

This is a resort that offers brilliant bang for your buck, thanks in part to its location at the heart of Italy’s Via Lattea – a ski area that encompasses eight interconnected ski resorts in the Piedmont region and has 248 miles of slopes, some of which connect to France’s Montgenèvre ski resort. Sestriere tops out at 9186 feet, which means it’s wonderfully snow-sure. Additionally, the resort recently purchased 117 shiny new snowmakers, so even if the white stuff fails to appear (which is unlikely), you can still hit the slopes. As a bonus, it’s famous for its Italian cuisine, and the fabulous slope-side restaurants offer brilliant value for money ⁠– try Ristorante Pizzeria Da Costa for amazing pizza at a low price.

Get the French Alp experience for less at Grand Tourmalet. Gonzalo Azumendi/Getty Images
Get the French Alp experience for less at Grand Tourmalet. Gonzalo Azumendi / Getty Images

2. Grand Tourmalet, France

Best for a wide range of terrain

Average daily price of a lift pass: €50

Let’s face it. The French Alps are never going to be Europe’s cheapest ski destination, but it will always be one of the finest. And those who dream of cruising down its powder-blanketed slopes without remortgaging their home should head to Grand Tourmalet, a resort in the famously wallet-friendly Pyrenees mountains, where a week-long lift pass costs from around €300 per adult.

This gorgeous resort has 62 miles of slopes and a thrilling network of off-piste descents in the shadow of the 9438-ft Pic du Midi de Bigorre. It’s also perfect for families, with a fantastic range of activities to enjoy once the lifts have stopped. Highlights include snowmobile excursions (there are electric versions for kids as young as six), a visit to Pic du Midi’s observatory (France’s highest) and free guided winter hikes.

Vogel has a famously long season, so you can enjoy the snow longer.
Vogel has a famously long season, so you can enjoy the snow longer. Levente Fesus / 500px

3. Vogel, Slovenia

Best for beginners

Average daily price of a lift pass: €42

Prepare to be amazed: a six-day-ski pass for Vogel in Slovenia costs just €197. This is one of Slovenia’s most popular ski resorts – a winter wonderland located just above Bohinj Valley, in Triglav National Park. The seasons are famously long (you can typically ski here from November until May) and its 13 miles of slopes cater to everyone from beginners taking it slowly to experts who can fling themselves off jumps in the resort’s beautifully maintained snow park. Taking to the slopes for the first time? The nursery slopes in the beginners’ area don’t need a lift pass – the only ticket they’ll need is a single cable car fare if you’re staying in accommodation below the main resort.

Admire the scenery at Central Europe's largest ski area. Shutterstock
Admire the scenery at Central Europe’s largest ski area. mpaniti / Shutterstock

4. Jasná Nízke Tatry, Slovakia

Best for cheap lift passes

Average daily price of a lift pass: €41

Say hello to Central Europe’s largest ski area, where a six-day adult’s lift pass costs roughly €275. So what do you get for your hard-earned cash? To start with, 31 miles of Slovakian pistes served by 20 lifts (including a hi-tech A6 Doppelmayr 15-MGD cable car which whisks skiers to the top of the resort’s Mount Chopok in just 11 minutes). Adrenaline lovers can catch some big air in the resort’s freestyle zones but if après-ski is your priority, you’re in luck – the resort has several slope-side bars and clubs at which you can bust out your best dance moves (the Happy End club is a great spot to toast a day on the hill).

5. Orelle, France

Best for cheap accommodation

Average daily price of a lift pass: €40

Full disclosure – Orelle, which comprises 10 tiny hamlets, is part of France’s Les 3 Vallees ski area, home to swanky resorts such as Courchevel and Val Thorens. But Orelle, which has 93 miles of slopes and 29 ski lifts, is also proof that staying in a smaller resort that offers easy access to the area’s 372 miles of slopes can reap huge rewards. Take its newest hotel, The Hob. The accommodation will include double rooms, family rooms and six-person dormitories, and rates start from just €99 per night. The best bit? You simply need to hop on the Orelle gondola to be whisked into the heart of the world’s largest ski area in just 13 minutes.

These epic slopes are just 90 minutes from Turin.
These epic slopes are just 90 minutes from Turin. Fabio Lamanna / Getty Images

6. Bardonecchia, Italy

Best for easy access

Average daily price of a lift pass: €46

Bardonecchia hosted the Winter Olympics in 2006 but – unlike in other resorts that hosted the games – prices have remained surprisingly low. The northwest-facing slopes are seriously snow-sure, and the resort’s impressive snowmaking tech means there’s always plenty of powder. It’s also easily accessible – it takes just 90 minutes to drive to the resort from Turin, but visitors can also hop on the Turin-Bardonecchia-Modane train. The terrain starts at 4260ft and tops out at 9180ft, and it’s a great resort for multi-destination trips due to the proximity of other brilliant Italian resorts such as Sauze d’Oulx.

7. Serre Chevalier, France

Best for guaranteed snow

Average daily price of a lift pass: €60

Serre Chevalier, the largest ski area in the (decidedly cheaper) southern Alps might not have the nightlife you’ll find in Tignes or the ski butlers you’ll find in swanky Courchevel, but that’s precisely we why love it. Decidedly unpretentious and free from the crowds that clog lift lines in other resorts, it’s a ski destination that offers brilliant value for money and a fantastic selection of runs for beginners through to experts (although intermediates are especially well catered for here). It’s also northeast-facing, which means its 80 slopes hold snow incredibly well.

Take in the winter wonderland scenes of Alpbach in Austria.
Take in the winter wonderland scenes of Alpbach in Austria. pmvfoto / Shutterstock

8. Alpbach, Austria

Best for alpine charm

Average daily price of a lift pass: €63

This Austrian winter wonderland, in the heart of the Tyrol region, is one of the prettiest places to ski. When it was founded in 1953, locals laid down firm laws relating to buildings – none could be higher than three stories – and all must have first and second stories made from wood. Its 70 miles of trails are all easily accessible, and it’s incredibly family-friendly – there are four nursery slope areas, and the cost of a lift pass covers rides on a bus that whisks visitors around the resort.

One aspect that sets this resort apart is the accommodation, which consists mostly of chalet hotels – try the family-run Hotel Iris, where double rooms start from just €50 per night. Make sure you try one of the region’s delicious specialties, like Brandenburg Prügeltorte, a delicious cake found throughout Austria’s Tyrol region.

See the best of Mallorca on this week-long itinerary

While many Mallorcan itineraries begin in Palma, I prefer kicking off my vacation at a more relaxed pace in Sóller.

It’s a 35-minute drive from the airport and seems devoted to the things that make me happy: a laid-back atmosphere, a beautifully preserved historic square where families and neighbors gather in the afternoon to chat into the night and cobblestone streets that hide restaurants and traditional shops.

I love the honey-colored buildings, the fact that you’re never far from a view of the Serra de Tramuntana, and you can see the sun set on this side of the island. It’s the perfect introduction to Mallorca. We’ll base ourselves here for much of the holiday as it provides easy access to Palma and the great beaches and villages.

When to arrive: Mallorca is lovely year-round. Winter sees many coastal resorts close, but it’s perfect for hiking the Serra de Tramuntana and Serra de Llevant mountain ranges or enjoying cozy farm stays inland. The sweet spots for most visitors are spring and autumn when the weather is mild and you can enjoy a variety of activities, but I prefer summer when it’s busy and vibrant and ideal for sun-worshippers (that’s me).

How to get from the airport: If you’re staying in Palma, taxis and the EMT A1 bus, which runs every 15 minutes during the day and every 30 minutes at night, are convenient options. During summer, AEROTIB buses provide direct routes to major resorts like Alcúdia, Can Picafort and Cala Bona.

How to get around: The public transport system on the island is pretty good. Palma is well-connected with buses and taxis, and TIB buses link the capital with major tourist destinations across the island. However, for the itinerary I’ve created, you’re going to need a car. It’s the easiest way to explore Mallorca’s villages and hidden beaches, which are often only accessible by car.

What to pack: A light and comfortable wardrobe is your best bet in summer. Opt for breathable fabrics that keep you cool during the day and bring along a few dressier items for dining out. Locals typically dress up for meals (casual chic rather than gussied up) so you won’t see many people in beachwear at the table – it’s generally frowned upon. The west coast can experience occasional showers even in summer, so packing a light rain jacket is a smart move. Additionally, water shoes are a wise choice since many of Mallorca’s beaches are rocky, and they’ll save your feet from unwanted cuts and scrapes.

The side streets, markets and main square of Soller
The pristine streets of Sóller © Sasha Brady

Day 1: Start your trip in Sóller

How to spend the day: Check into your hotel, and if you’ve rented a car, drop it off at the town’s underground public car park, which costs only €6 per day. Otherwise, it’s almost impossible to find parking on the narrow streets, and very few hotels have their own parking bays.

Once settled, take a pause at the canopy-draped Plaça de la Constitució and enjoy lunch at a cafe there. Sant Bartomeu cathedral is also located here and is well worth a look for its impressive Modernist facade and jaw-dropping altarpiece. Afterward, saunter along to Carrer de sa Lluna; you’ll find some old-school shops here selling Mallorcan-leather crafted shoes and traditional homewares like handstitched floral and antique-style linen napkins and tablecloths that make lovely Mallorcan mementos.

Dinner: There are no late-night bars in Sóller, and dinner service usually ends at 10:30pm, which is unusual for Spain. Plan to head out no later than 8pm if you don’t want to feel rushed. Some of my favorite restaurants in Sóller, such as Ca’n Pintxo, are tucked away down side streets. Head here and ask to be seated at its candle-lit tables on the cobbled terrace to enjoy dishes like the catch of the day, presented as a silky ceviche dish and marinated in citrus and passion fruit juices.

Looking for souvenirs? Don’t miss Palma de Mallorca’s best independent stores

Images of Port de Soller beach with boats docked by the harbor and people and ducks relaxing on the sand
L: Port de Sóller at dusk © Sasha Brady ; C: Boats docked at Port de Sóller harbor © Shutterstock; Ducks come out to play in Port de Sóller © Sasha Brady

Day 2: Port de Sóller

Morning: Join the long line of sweet-toothed locals collecting their ensaïmadas (coils of flaky pastry dusted with icing sugar and sometimes filled with jam) from Horno San Cristo. Mallorca is known for ensaïmadas, which pair perfectly with a bitter espresso.

How to spend the day: Hit the beach! Port de Sóller is a 10-minute drive away, or you can take the wooden tram, which is a very cute and fun way to travel. There are two beaches here, the main Port de Sóller beach and Platja d’en Repic. Both have calm, clear waters and lifeguards on duty. You can rent sun loungers, lockers, and parasols for a flat day rate and you’re surrounded by restaurants and bars. I like Patiki Beach for lunch, but I usually bring bread, cheese and chorizo from the supermarket and make my own picnic. Plus there are fruit vendors here ready to slice up a dragon fruit or crack open a coconut whenever you fancy.

Dinner: Enjoy a stunning sunset at the beach and then make your way to Ses Oliveres for a fresh seafood dinner with sparkling wine and beautiful views of the bay.

Here’s our pick of Mallorca’s best beaches

The lush green valleys, mountain roads and rocky beaches of Mallorca's northwest coast
L: The lush green valleys and orchards of Fornalutx; C: Viewpoint of the MA-10 highway; R: Sa Calobra beach © Sasha Brady

Day 3: Fornalutx, Sa Calobra and Pollença

Morning: Start your day with a scenic 15-minute drive to Fornalutx, often hailed as one of Spain’s most beautiful villages. The journey itself is a treat through lush greenery and gentle, winding roads. Have breakfast at Cafè Sa Plaça in the heart of the village and then go for a stroll through the knotted streets, admiring the beautiful window boxes that adorn each home. Stop at the gloriously old-fashioned Panaderia de Fornalutx to pick up some traditional Mallorcan pastries for a sweet treat on the way to your next adventure.

How to spend the day: Continue on the MA-10 highway and brace yourself for the exhilarating (read: terrifying) drive to Sa Calobra beach. The MA-10, particularly as it snakes its way down to Sa Calobra, is famous for its hairpin turns and cliff-hugging roads. Nobody warned me it’s known as “the wildest road on the island,” so be prepared. The views are saga-worthy (take it slow), and Sa Calobra really is a stunner. The water is so clear you can see the fish flit past even without a snorkel. Aim to get there by mid-morning to secure a spot and relax on the pebble beach or take a short walk to Torrent de Pareis gorge.

Evening: End your day in Pollença, a quintessentially Balearic town an hour’s drive away with wisteria-draped streets that once charmed Agatha Christie. As dusk settles, the town’s restaurants and bars come to life, with families gathering in the squares to enjoy ice cream and wine. Nourish your soul with dinner at Amazo, a cozy spot offering hearty South American and Spanish fare. For a more relaxed drive home to Sóller, take the flatter and more straightforward MA-13 highway.

The stone buildings of the towns of Deia and Valldemossa in Mallorca
L: The hilltop homes of Deià © iStock; charming sidestreets of Deià © Sasha Brady; plant-lined homes of Valldemossa © Shutterstock

Day 4: Deià and Valdemossa

Morning: If you’ve ever searched for images of Mallorca on Instagram, you’ve definitely seen Deià. This charming and somewhat bougie spot is known for its artistic vibe, stunning scenery and celebrity holiday homes. It’s just a 20-minute drive from Sóller. Start with a visit to the poet Robert Graves’ grave in the hilltop cemetery that overlooks the village. Then mosey to De Moniö for coffee, a minimalist-styled vegetarian cafe that also sells handmade ceramics (perfect souvenirs). Then, drive down to Cala Deià, where you can enjoy a swim and have an early lunch at Ca’s Patró March, a restaurant overlooking the water.

How to spend the day: Drive for 15 minutes to Valldemossa, a town declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, to get lost among the labyrinthine streets and visit Real Cartuja de Valldemossa, a museum dedicated to the composer Frédéric Chopin and writer George Sand. The building is an old monastery and former royal residence that dates back to 1310. Whether you’ve eaten or not, your lunchtime priority should be La Posada, where you can sip wine with wood-fired steaks or fresh salads at the outdoor terrace overlooking Valldemossa’s sea of terracotta rooftops and olive groves.

Evening: When the time is right, return to Sóller for your final evening here and enjoy dinner at C’an Llimona, a gorgeous family-run Italian restaurant that values quality produce. The pasta is made fresh every day and is exceptional.

The pastel-colored buildings of Palma
L-C: pastel-colored buildings of Palma © Shutterstock; R: the shops of the Old Town © Getty Images

Day 5: Palma

Morning: Before leaving Sóller for Palma, visit Ecovinyassa, a stunning citrus orchard just a 10-minute drive away, where the air is filled with the fragrance of oranges and lemons. They offer tours on weekdays (except Tuesdays) from 10am, where you can sample freshly picked fruit, explore the beautiful grounds, and enjoy fresh juice and a light snack under the shade of the citrus trees—a languid and lovely way to spend the morning.

How to spend the day: Move on to Palma, Mallorca’s vibrant, art-filled capital. I like to stay in Santa Catalina. This is the home of every second Palma creative so expect to find live music, dog-friendly bars and some sort of sweet treat on every street corner. Once you’ve checked in to your hotel, explore the historic Old Town, visiting the magnificent La Seu Cathedral, and browsing concept stores such as Rialto Living and La Pecera and smaller spots like Mimbrería Vidal to find that “oh this? I picked it up in Mallorca” piece.

Dinner: Grab a seat near the open-plan kitchen at Vandal in Santa Catalina where the menu reads like a map of the world with influences from South America, Asia and Europe. It’s loud, so not the place for an intimate dinner, but it’s fun. Spring for the plump and sweetly flavored beef bao and burrata with fried zucchini flower. After, seek out the blink-and-you’ll miss it jazz-infused speakeasy Door 13. You’ll need a password to enter, which is usually shared on its social media.

Need more info? Here’s our first-timer’s guide to Palma

The white-sand beaches of Cali Pi and Es Trenc and the boathouses of Cala Figuera
L: Cali Pi beach as seen from a viewpoint on the cliffs; C: white sands of Es Trenc; the boats of Cala Figuera in Santanyí © Getty Images

Day 6: Cala Pi and Santanyí

Morning: Wake up early, grab some snacks and fresh fruit from a nearby supermarket (Spanish supermarkets are elite) and get ready for another beach day.

How to spend the day: Start the day at Cala Pi, a 45-minute drive from Palma. This is a traditional Mallorcan beach that I fell madly in love with – quiet and secluded (in the morning, at least) with no facilities. Bring towels, snorkels and snacks (hence the supermarket run before leaving). Bear in mind you have to walk down some pretty steep stairs to reach it. In the afternoon, you could drive 30 minutes to the white-sand Caribbean-esque beach of Platja des Trenc or 40 minutes to Santanyí, a small, slow-paced town where even the air feels gentle. There’s a beautiful beach here too and a market on Wednesdays and Saturdays (until 2pm).

Dinner: Stick around in Santanyí because it looks especially pretty during golden hour. Enjoy fresh paella at one of the informal beach clubs for dinner or truffle pasta in the courtyard of Es Cantonet. It’s about a 45-minute drive back to Palma.

Day 7: Palma

Morning: Don’t leave without visiting the Santa Catalina market. It has pretty much all the fresh produce you can think of, and you can pick up local honey, marmalade, melt-in-the-mouth hams and Mallorcan wines to take home. While there, go to Can Frau for an early tapas lunch. It’s a great place to dine alone as they have a long counter that wraps around the bar. It also serves some of the best paella in Palma.

How to spend the day: Continue to explore Palma’s charming neighborhoods or enjoy a relaxing beach day at Portixol, a former fishing village now a trendy seaside suburb of Palma. End your trip with something a little bit different by paying a visit to one of Mallorca’s glassware shops or warehouses. The island boasts a rich glassmaking tradition, and its oldest brand, Gordiola Glass Company, has been around since 1719. While there is a shop in Palma, a trip to the workshop in Algaida is far more thrilling. Here you can witness the art of handblown glassmaking in the museum – the €8 entry fee is well worth it – and peruse and shop various products.

Dinner: In Palma, go to La Rosa Vermuteria and Colmado, a vermouth bar with the most charming bartenders and a great selection of vermouth, beer and wine. Get the cheeseboard for dinner before heading to the airport. Adios!

Struggling to choose between Mallorca and Ibiza? Our writers can help

Find out the best places to eat and drink in Palma de Mallorca

10 places in Malta you won’t want to miss

When we say that Malta is jam-packed full of culture, food and nature, we’re not exaggerating.

After all, even though the 27km(17-mile)-long island is the tenth smallest country in the world, it’s the fifth-most densely populated. Which means that whether you’re a solo traveler, retired explorer or large family on vacation, you don’t have to travel far in the Maltese archipelago to find something exciting for you.

Famous for sunny weather, the islands are awash with natural beauty and fascinating history. You’ll see the former in the crystal-clear waters at beloved swimming spots like St Peter’s Pool or the sweeping seascape views from coastal hiking trails by the Dingli Cliffs, and the latter at megalithic temples, medieval Arabic fortresses and ornate baroque cathedrals. And of course, Malta has more beaches than you can possibly hope to lounge on in one trip.

There’s just so much to see and do in here, no matter the season you visit. Here are 10 places to start.

A male hiker rests on the rocky path along the Dingli Cliffs, looking out toward Filfla island, Malta
Take in dreamy views from the magnificent Dingli Cliffs. Matthew Mirabelli for Lonely Planet

1. Dingli Cliffs

Best for coastal hiking

Malta’s coast has scenic loops and hiking routes that are best tackled in the spring, before the searing summer heat sets in. The Dingli Cliffs and Fawwara Trail is one of the best. Dingli offers serene and verdant terrain rich with rare flora and fauna, and sweeping views of Filfla island (full of holes from its use in military-target practice generations ago) in the sea, close to shore.

Planning tip: Use the AllTrails free hiking app to follow the paths and avoid wandering onto private property.

2. St Peter’s Pool

Best for swimming

With Malta’s clearest water for swimming, this rocky beach is a favorite with both locals and visitors. Its azure-blue waters make for a dreamy place to dive in – and, of course, to snap and post those enviable holiday pics. It’s a bit of a trek to get to if you’re using public transport: take Bus 81 from Valletta or Floriana and hop off at the Abdosir bus stop, then continue for 30 minutes on foot. If you can, renting a moped makes life easier, as you can park a 10-minute walk away. Remember to bring your own snacks and water as you won’t always find food vendors on site. The clear lapping waves and sweeping horizon views you’ll enjoy will make all the planning well worth it.

Local tip: Keep your eyes peeled for Carmelo and his cliff-diving dog Tina, both local celebrities.

People sit at tables at a bar in a narrow street in Valletta, Malta
Every night in Valletta, the party spills out into the narrow streets. Matthew Mirabelli for Lonely Planet

3. Valletta

Best for art spaces and bars

Its peninsular capital is Malta’s most popular tourist destination these days, with the city seeing major development over the past decade after staying sleepy for generations. Such slow continuity makes the place an architectural time capsule, full of colorful box balconies, limestone baroque chapels and lush gardens in the bastions. The new energy, meanwhile, pulses everywhere, making Valletta the island’s unquestioned arts and nightlife hub. You can hear the musicians performing at Babel Bistro from streets away; approaching the joint, you’ll see late-night crowds spilling out onto the sidewalk. For a cocktail with a view, join those who love a good time on the wide paved steps at Cafe Society, which has live music on Tuesdays.

Local tip: Music lovers might want to plan their visit around one of Valletta’s music festivals – such as Isle of MTV, which takes place just outside the capital’s walls. Tickets are free.

4. Ħagar Qim

Best for prehistoric architecture

Nothing really prepares you for the wow factor delivered by the absolutely enormous limestone stone slabs that form Ħagar Qim; dating from 3700–3200 BCE, it’s the one of the oldest temple complexes in the world. The colossal doorways, windows, apses and niches remain in impressive condition – especially once you consider the mind-boggling fact that they are older than the pyramids or Stonehenge. The temple gives some clues into the lives and beliefs of the earliest inhabitants of Malta: beams of light shine through a tiny hole in the wall to flood the first chamber on the summer and winter equinoxes, suggesting the ancient culture’s reverence for the sun.

A couple walks down a narrow cobbled street with wooden doors and historical houses in Birgu (Vittoriosa), Malta
Birgu, one of the Three Cities, has architecture and history similar to nearby Valletta – but draws far fewer visitors. Shutterstock

5. The Three Cities

Best for avoiding the crowds

Across the Grand Harbour and facing Valletta lie the majestic Three Cities: Birgu (Vittoriosa), Bormla (Conspicua) and L-Isla (Senglea). Almost mirroring Valletta in design, with colossal bastion fortifications, the Three Cities are often passed over by visitors. Don’t make this mistake: they are home to incredible architecture and great food but with fewer crowds to contend with than in the capital. Be sure to reserve ahead for a meal at The Little Bastion in Senglea, and to visit the recently reopened Maritime Museum for a brilliant overview of Maltese history told through its nautical stories.

6. Ħal Saflieni Hypogeum

Best for stepping back in time

The most immersive historical experience on the islands (maybe even in all of Europe, if you ask this admittedly biased writer) is entering the 5000-year-old Hypogeum. The entrance is almost hidden – an unassuming front door on an average street in Paola – and you’d be forgiven for walking by and totally missing the marvel that lies beneath. Huge limestone slab steps lead you down into this subterranean Neolithic temple and through narrow passages (it’s not for the claustrophobic). Its centerpiece is a necropolis that archeologists think housed the remains of around 7000 people, as well as served as a place of worship.

Planning tip: Book tickets well in advance, since admission is limited to preserve the site.

A woman in a red bathing suit stands by the ladder into an inlet at Għar Lapsi, surrounded by rocky cliffs, Malta
Take the plunge in the rugged inlets of Għar Lapsi. Julien Jean Zayatz/Shutterstock

7. Għar Lapsi

Best for snorkeling

The rugged inlets of this picturesque bay in the south of Malta have made it a top spot for PADI divers and snorkelers for decades, with some of the best reef life on the island beneath its turquoise waters. It also draws swimmers, as the large natural pools here are sheltered from the open sea, letting you get some good lengths in. Keep in mind that there’s little space on the shore, and the rocks there aren’t a very comfortable place for sunbathing. No matter: here, you’ll want to stay in the water.

Two men walk in an alley partly cast in shadow in Mdina, Malta
Get lost in the enchanting medieval maze that is Mdina. Matthew Mirabelli for Lonely Planet

8. Mdina

Best for medieval ambience

Indisputably one of the most beautiful parts of Malta, Mdina has been inhabited since the Bronze Age, and was given its current name by the early-medieval Aghlabid conquerers from Algeria. The hilltop town retains its one-of-a-kind atmosphere, and is still known as the “Silent City” since monasteries and convents have operated here for many generations. The narrow alleys and cobbled streets are not as quiet as they once were, being a favorite of tour groups checking out a filming location for the first season of Game of Thrones. Yet the churches, mansions and cathedral are still magical, as is Fontanella Tea Garden, a cafe on the north wall that serves up the richest chocolate cake on the island.

Local tip: Visit at the end of the day: the tour groups usually disperse by 4pm.

Colorful luzzu boats in the harbor of Marsaxlokk, Malta
Colorful luzzu boats deliver their fresh catch to the seafood restaurants that line Marsaxlokk’s harbor. Gordon Bell/Shutterstock

9. Marsaxlokk

Best for seafood

A popular spot for local foodies in South Malta, Marsaxlokk boasts excellent fish restaurants along its waterfront, such as family-run yet elegant Tartarun, famous for its octopus dishes. To work up an appetite beforehand, you can stroll around the town’s market and churches, past brightly painted cottages and the iconic luzzu boats in the cute harbor. Make a day of it and hire a boat to take you around the nearby beaches like St Peter’s Pool.

10: Għajn Tuffieħa

Best for sandy beaches

Next door to Golden Bay, Għajn Tuffieħa Bay (sometimes called Riviera Beach) is less developed than its neighbor and a much more natural affair, with 250m (820ft) of rolling red sand overlooked by green cliffs – and not much else. Still, it’s not completely rustic: you’ll find umbrellas to rent and the odd snack truck around. Pack a DIY picnic dinner with you to stay for the magnificent sunset.

Love at first hike: how adventure travel can bring you closer

The first date, the first kiss, the first fight, the first trip – these rites of passage form the foundations of an early relationship. Travelling together is especially telling. Does one person want to surf at dawn and the other prefer to laze? Does one perk up and the other shrink back at the prospect of wild camping? Adventure travel in particular can alter a relationship for better or worse.

Lonely Planet Trailblazers Kia and Peter from Atlas & Boots have travelled together since 2014. Here they share how adventure travel has changed and challenged their relationship.

Peter Watson washing dishes in the sea in Fiji © Atlas and Boots
Peter doing the washing up, Fiji camping-style © Atlas and Boots

First-time camping on a Fiji beach

Taveuni on Fiji is a Pacific paradise perfect for camping. With open canvas beneath night-time skies and the gentle hush of a peaceful sea, Beverly Beach was the perfect opportunity to introduce Kia to camping. Alas, it did not go as planned.

Kia: Camping on a beach sounds lovely, but I thoroughly hated it. There were wild dogs in the area that wouldn’t leave us alone, droves of mosquitoes, awful facilities and even a roach or two from the dwellings next door. On the second night, while in the toilet, in the dark, something wet and heavy landed on my foot – too big to be a bug, too small to be a cat. I ran out, horrified, later discovering that it was a massive toad. I enjoy adventure travel, but this wasn’t my idea of fun and I’ve resisted camping ever since.

Peter: I am happiest under canvas and was keen to initiate Kia into the pleasures of camping.

Sadly, she hated it and to my dismay still hates it to this day. The experience taught us to meet in the middle. Now, we limit camping trips to a maximum of three days. I get my fix and she keeps her cool.

Kia and Peter from Atlas and Boots take a selfie in the sea while diving © Atlas and Boots
Forget the diving skills, these two have strong selfie game © Atlas and Boots

Out of our depth on a Vanuatu dive

After a month on the Pacific islands of Vanuatu, we had four days left with nothing to do. Over sunset drinks, we spotted a fellow backpacker studying for the PADI Open Water Diver course and decided we had just enough time to get certified too.

Kia: I was born and raised in London and seldom had the chance to swim, so I severely struggled with my PADI certification. Peter, on the other hand, grew up by the sea and found it extremely easy. I’m highly competitive and had a hard time accepting that I was weak at this. I had to learn to let go of control and allow Peter to teach me.

Peter: Kia is a bit of a nerd and is used to being good at things. Diving, however, was a clear shortcoming. Learning to dive together was great because it taught us how to teach and learn from each other, to leave our egos on the boat, to be patient, and to trust and rely on each other underwater. Adventure travel and diving in particular is a genuinely enriching experience for couples.

Erta Ale volcano, Ethiopia © Mikhail Cheremkin / Getty Images
A little more than sparks could fly at Erta Ale © Mikhail Cheremkin / Getty Images

The ‘hike from hell’ in Ethiopia

Erta Ale volcano in Ethiopia has been dubbed the ‘hike from hell’. Two nights with no running water, no toilets and no privacy in searing temperatures and under armed guard are testing circumstances for any couple.

Kia: This hike really underlined how past adventures have toughened me up and brought us closer together. There was no privacy and we had to venture far from camp to find a tree or ditch for a shared toilet break (and not just the ladylike variety). This trip taught me that being able to laugh together is worth a thousand luxuries.

Peter: Despite an obvious lack of comfort, Erta Ale was one of the best things we’ve done together. Travelling to an incredible natural sight in one of the least accessible places on my bucket list was utterly thrilling. People talk about the ‘seven year itch’, but if you continue to do exciting things, you will continue to be excited.

Kia and Peter pose for a photo in Salar de Uyuni © Atlas and Boots
Quick, while there’s no one around… © Atlas and Boots

Language barrier at the Bolivian border

After eight months on the road, we found ourselves fast waning. Bolivia was a test in more ways than one.

Kia: Crossing overland from Bolivia to Chile was unexpectedly complicated. There was tortured wrangling in Spanish, an overnight stay in a hovel and lavish fees on exit and entry. I speak some Spanish and had therefore been the de facto leader through the last four countries of our trip and found myself quickly tiring. The experience taught me that I had to buck up and be the strong one when the situation called for it.

Peter: South America was frustrating because I had to watch Kia struggle with the language barrier and could do nothing to help. On one occasion, she was demanding a refund for a room that had no water, but the proprietor only agreed to a dollar. Normally, I’d get confrontational, but had to let Kia handle it. It taught us to play to our strengths and ease each other’s weaknesses.

The northern lights, seen in Norway © Atlas and Boots
Even the anti-romantics out there will struggle not to swoon over the northern lights © Atlas and Boots

True romance under Northern Lights

It was our second night in a freezing cold Norway. Buffeted by icy winds, we prayed that this would be the night we’d finally see the lights.

Kia: I didn’t have high hopes. A few years earlier, we had spent a freezing night in Iceland, fruitlessly waiting for the lights to appear just as we had in Norway the night before. Not a glimmer. This night, however, our guide was sure: the lights would finally appear. He was right and they were utterly jaw-dropping. I held Peter’s hand and, for a moment, we were no longer wry Brits or seen-it-all travellers; we weren’t cynical Londoners, or a writer and a photographer angling for a story. We were just two people in love experiencing something extraordinary.

Peter: Seeing the Northern Lights in Norway was one of the best things I’ve done. It was worth the biting cold and crushing disappointment of prior attempts. That moment, under those lights, taught us to enjoy extraordinary moments without sullying them with a silly joke or sly aside; to enjoy romantic moments purely for what they are.

Epic Hikes of the World (Paperback)

In search of silence in Sharjah, the UAE’s up-and-coming emirate

Nowhere does next-level opulence like the United Arab Emirates, and in our perpetually moving world, simply savouring silence has become the next sought-after luxury.

To the untrained eye, Sharjah is just a seamless extension of its glitzy next-door neighbour, Dubai, and all the glamour (and grudges) that tag along with it. But Sharjah stands its ground, and few places straddle the line of the past and progress quite so well. This uber-accomplished emirate has some serious culture cred on its CV: Cultural Capital of the Arab World in 1998, Islamic Culture Capital in 2014, Capital of Arab Tourism in 2015.

With this culture seems to come a certain type of calm: feet quietly shuffling through an under-visited museum; a steaming cup of karak chai, that ubiquitous milky black tea spiced to perfection with cardamom and saffron, best enjoyed under an enveloping blanket of desert stars; or simply standing still long enough to baffle a building full of butterflies. Whether you’re looking to take the pace down a notch from the high of Dubai or just need a healthy dose of peace and quiet, these spots in Sharjah promise to bring you tantalisingly close to zero decibels.

Sand dunes in front of the Hajar Mountains in the deserts of Sharjah, United Arab Emirates
Quietly contemplate Sharjah’s new archaeological discoveries that are reshaping the story of humanity © Aleksandr Serebrennikov / EyeEm / Getty Images

Peer into the past at the Mleiha archaeological site

No matter how glitzy the cities are, the Emirati soul will forever be found in the desert. And, as it turns out, some of our own ancestral underpinnings, whether we’re Arab or not, emerged from these sands in Sharjah. One of humanity’s first settlements outside Africa was located in an area of Sharjah now called Mleiha, a hushed, Martian-looking desertscape far removed from the emirate’s urban hum. Archaeological excavations have unearthed a bounty of ancient artefacts, including 125,000-year-old stone hand axes, that indicate that early humans thrived here. These findings have rewritten our own history, as researchers now believe that early humans could have left Africa 20,000 years earlier than previously thought.

Start your exploration at the visitors centre, unveiled in 2016, for a crash course in the history of humanity. Excavations are strewn across the surrounding desert, so sign up for a tour and pick your mode of transport for trailing the footsteps of your ancestors: 4WD, mountain bike or your own two feet. But the true highlight of this site is staying for sunset and beyond, so you can overnight amongst the desert dunes. Before you bed down for the night, you can open a window into the past on a dune-driving 4WD excursion to Fossil Rock, a huge landmark stone in the middle of nowhere that’s embedded with countless creatures, and ponder existence with a stargazing session: the visitors centre provides sophisticated telescopes to view constellations, the moon and our planetary neighbours, plus – if it’s a clear night – galaxies far, far away.

Man walks through the Rain Room art installation in Sharjah, United Arab Emirates
Walk through water without getting wet at Sharjah’s Rain Room © Lauren Keith / Lonely Planet

Weather the storm at Sharjah’s Rain Room

A permanent downpour has arrived in the desert with the opening of the Rain Room art installation, which has settled in Sharjah after a round-the-world tour. Nearly 3000 litres of water drip from the ceiling of a nearly pitch-black room, pierced only by a horizontal beam that seems to train the spotlight on each individual drop. As opposed to braving it in unsympathetic Mother Nature, your body is your umbrella in the Rain Room, where a sophisticated system of networked cameras tracks your movement – step slowly to stay dry and move quickly at your own risk. While admittedly the falling pitter-patter of perpetual rain isn’t decibel-free, the natural noise is music to the ears. Groups inside the Rain Room are limited to six people.

The Sharjah city skyline at sunset with Al Noor Island in the foreground, United Arab Emirates
Al Noor Island is an urban retreat from Sharjah city © Bdalzyz Mmd / EyeEm / Getty Images

Find stillness amongst the butterflies on Al Noor Island

Attached to the mainland by a single meandering thread of a bridge, Al Noor Island is a wonderfully lush retreat from the high rises of Sharjah city. Walkways, some of which transform unannounced into pavement-wide trampolines, encircle the isle, which was designed by Austrian artist André Heller. Al Noor Island’s central attraction is its modern but nature-inspired glass-paned butterfly house, which is home to hundreds of peacefully fluttering specimens, and it’s partially obscured by a sunlight-bright metal ‘wave’ that looks somewhere between traditional mashrabiya (lattice screens in Middle Eastern architecture that allow someone to see out but not in) and a super-deluxe K’Nex set. Lie in wait long enough and you might just be remodelled into a butterfly-approved piece of furniture, as they slowly become less shy about where they settle. Al Noor Island is particularly tranquil at night when 1200 fibreglass bulbs light up the ‘glimmering meadow’ and sway like fireflies: the result is magical.

Traditional Indian and Middle Eastern designs and architecture above a door at Al Bait, Sharjah, United Arab Emirates
Beautiful architectural details have been kept in place at Al Bait in the Heart of Sharjah © Lauren Keith / Lonely Planet

Stay off the grid … or in the middle of it all

Because of its close proximity to Dubai – and an alcohol ban that seems to frighten some people – Sharjah receives only a fraction of the overnight visitors, so travellers who opt to stay are in for a treat. Brand new boutique hotels that promise to conserve the local culture, heritage and natural ecosystems are popping up across the emirate in some of the least expected places. In the aptly named Heart of Sharjah, a white-washed restored heritage district in the centre of the city, hides Al Bait, low-rise luxury digs that are built on the foundations of old houses (Al Bait means ‘house’ in Arabic). The traditional architecture aims for peak privacy, as the suites are clustered around quiet courtyards. You can even check into the hotel while you’re still at the airport so you can get straight to relaxing.

Nestled in the red-streaked sands near the archaeological site of Mleiha is a secluded spot worth seeking out when it opens later in 2019. Al Faya Lodge has just five rooms and was improbably fashioned from an abandoned 1960s-era medical clinic and grocery store; also on site is what’s thought to be one of the first petroleum pumps in the UAE. The rooms have over-bed skylights that are primed for silent stargazing, and just off the modernist-style swimming pool is the unique ‘hands-free’ spa, where treatments are administered simply by relaxing in the rooms: watch the sunset from the Himalayan salt inhalation room before washing off in the tropical shower and heading to the the herbal ventilation area, where the air is peppered with scents of chamomile, cinnamon, cloves and frankincense.

Interior of a safari tent at Kingfisher Lodge, with views of the beach of Sharjah, United Arab Emirates
Take glamping to the next level at Kingfisher Lodge, on the east coast of Sharjah © Kingfisher Lodge

Kayak through Khor Kalba and glamp near the beach

As the only emirate with real estate on both of the country’s coasts, Sharjah makes the most of its stretches of sea. Leave the busy built-up western side for the eastern enclave of Khor Kalba, where you can paddle the calm coastal waters amid mangrove forest, spotting turtles and crabs as you float past in a kayak. For pure solitude at night, book into secluded Kingfisher Lodge, which has just 25 safari-style tents propped up on a private peninsula: glamping doesn’t get more glam than this. It’s worth waking early to salute the sun and linger as the pastel hues emerge over the beach: watch it unfold undisturbed from your bed, your personal plunge pool or your patio.

Lauren Keith travelled to Sharjah with support from Sharjah Commerce and Tourism Development Authority. Lonely Planet contributors do not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage.

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Wild Thailand: exploring Khao Sok National Park

‘Up there – can you see them?’ Scanning the evening sky above the jungle, they were alarmingly easy to spot: hundreds of Pteropus vampyrus – or flying foxes – out on an evening feeding mission. With a wingspan approaching 1.5m, the giant bats filled the horizon in a flapping black swarm.

It was my first night in southern Thailand’s Khao Sok National Park, and a dramatic introduction to the wildlife I knew lurked in this ancient rainforest.

Some say the biodiversity of Khao Sok exceeds that of the Amazon. Most agree that at over 160 million years old, the evergreen rainforest here is one of the oldest in the world. Whichever list it tops, the fact this 738-sq-km expanse of national park exists at all in its current state – alive with whooping gibbons, flashing hornbills and with such richness of flora and fauna that an entomologist on honeymoon once picked up a rock and discovered a new species – is something to be grateful for. And this biodiversity haven owes a few thanks to an unexpected twist of fate.

From 1975 to 1982, at a time when Thailand was losing 3% of its forest cover a year to the logging industry, a group of communist insurgents made a stronghold in the caves of Khao Sok. From here they acted out guerrilla warfare against the Thai government, inadvertently also keeping loggers, miners and hunters at the park’s fringes, allowing the jungle inside to thrive.

A white-throated kingfisher perched on a branch in Khao Sok National Park
The national park is home to over 300 different bird species, including the white-throated kingfisher. Mustang_79 / Getty Images

And thanks to them, thrive it does. Treetops shake with monkeys and birds, winged lizards bounce from branch to rock, and sky-high bamboo stalks bathe everything in a stripey green light.

Located inland between the Andaman and Gulf coasts, Khao Sok is often overlooked by travellers in favour of southern Thailand’s coastal resorts and islands. But for anyone wishing to swap beach beats for tranquil jungle trails, lake swimming, cool bat-filled caves and the chance to spot a wealth of indigenous species in their natural habitat, this secret garden is an easy getaway.

Swinging gibbons and tarantula nests: jungle trekking

Just being in the park means coming face to face with nature, but the best way to experience Khao Sok’s wild bounty is on a guided jungle trek. It is possible to trek independently and trails from the park headquarters are well-maintained and easy-to-follow, but the knowledge of the local guides will enhance your trip ten-fold. They’ll point out the woven funnel of a tarantula nest or the scratches on a tree made by a Malayan sun bear, and will give lessons on the jungle’s medicinal plants and birdsong.

Most of the big mammals in the park – wild elephants, sun bears, clouded leopards and tigers – will remain elusive to trekkers, but the cracking of jackfruit should soon alert you to the presence of primates. Long-tailed macaques are an almost guaranteed sight, with troupes making bold acrobatic displays right on the trail. White-handed gibbons and spectacled langurs are a rarer and more rewarding spot. Gibbons stick to the high branches making long, Tarzan-like swings through the trees; a joy to behold. Gaurs, tapirs and barking deer can sometimes be seen or heard, especially in the wet season (June to October).

Lesser mouse-deer (Tragulus kanchil) walking.
The shy and mysterious mouse deer is a native to the park. Kajornyot Wildlife Photography / Shutterstock

On night safaris, the jungle takes on another persona as it squeaks and hisses with insects and some 30 bat species, including 8 varieties of megabat. This is also the time to look out for a tiny mouse deer, the smallest hooved animal in the world, or the big glassy eyes of a slow loris. When in bloom, special treks to see the Rafflesia kerrii are put into operation. With a diameter reaching 90cm, it’s the largest flower in the world, and, in Thailand, only grows in Khao Sok.

HDR Photo. Three rocks in Cheow Lan Lake, Khao Sok National Park, Thailand.
Huge karst mountains rise from the placid water of Chiaw Lan Lake. Dadoodas / Getty Images

Raft houses and swimming in Chiaw Lan Lake

This vast 165-sq-km lake sprawls in the middle of the park, a sparkling blue jewel in the crown of its attractions. It’s a magical place where huge karst mountains rise from the water. Some reach over 900m – three times the height of those in Vietnam’s Halong Bay. The jungle growth at the lake’s edge shimmers emerald in the reflected light. It seems peculiar that something so naturally stunning could be a modern invention, but the lake was formed in 1982 when the Ratchaprapha Dam was constructed.

To fully appreciate the tranquility of the lake, an overnight stay in a floating raft house is a must, and access is by a thrilling long-tail boat ride across the vast lake. The accommodation is rustic, but this is more than made up for by glorious lake swimming and the dawn mist rolling over the water to the whoops of gibbon calls.

Young woman traveler at cave entrance on island hopping in Cheow Lan Lake.
Spiders, bats, and intricate stalactites and stalagmites are features of cave visits. ViewApart / Getty Images

Bats and stalactites: cave tours

For fans of the dark delights of spelunking, there are several intriguing caves to visit, including Tham Si Ru – the cave used as a secret hideout by communist insurgents in the late 1970s. Two of the easier to access are Pra Kay Petch (Diamond) and Pakaran (Coral) caves, both of which include a long-tail boat or raft trip to the cave entrance, and fabulous rock formations inside.

A more intrepid experience is a guided trek through Nam Thalu cave. Not for the faint-hearted, the trek involves wading in subterranean streams through an increasingly narrow passage and should not be carried out in the rainy season when flash flooding is a real risk.

Make it happen

Khao Sok National Park is located inland from the Andaman Coast of southern Thailand, around two hours’ drive from Khao Lak, or an hour from Surat Thani. From Surat you can catch a bus going towards Takua Pa; from the Andaman Coast, take a Surat Thani-bound bus. Buses stop on Rte 401, 1.8km southwest of the park headquarters, which has useful maps for trekking and other information. Most visitors see the park on a two- or three-night organised tour which will usually include accommodation, activities such as trekking and caving as well as a stay in a floating raft house on Chiaw Lan Lake, and transfer from Surat Thani or Khao Lak. Tours can also be arranged with most of the lodges in the park itself. We recommend avoiding any package offering elephant riding.

Tour operators

Rainforest Camp specialises in luxury tented accommodation, both floating style on the lake, and in its Elephant Hills jungle lodge. Its two-night, three-day package (from THB 20,372) includes transfers, meals, a non-riding elephant interaction, guided trekking and a night on the lake.

Anurak Community Lodge is situated in a tranquil spot apart from the park’s main hub, and runs day tours including trips (but no overnight stay) to Chiaw Lan Lake, trekking, tubing and rafting on the Sok River. Its 18 bungalows (from THB 2900 a night, without activities) are surrounded by lush vegetation.

Rickshaw Travel is a UK-based operator specialising in immersive travel experiences. It offers a three-night, four-day tour of the park (from £468 per person), with transfers, accommodation in a community-run lodge, meals, an English-speaking guide and a night on a floating raft house on Chiaw Lan Lake. The Khao Sok trip is one of several short tours that can be combined into a longer holiday (a minimum of three trips is required for booking).

What to pack

  • Light, breathable clothing

  • Rain poncho or waterproof jacket

  • Swimming costume and towel

  • Sunglasses and hat

  • Sturdy walking shoes or trainers with good tread

  • Insect repellent (with DEET)

  • Suncream

  • Ear plugs

  • Small torch

  • Camera, charger and universal plug adaptor

  • Daypack

Code of conduct

  • Stick to existing hiking trails to avoid erosion

  • Never chase or try to catch wildlife

  • Take all litter with you, including cigarette ends

  • There are no toilets on hiking trails; bury your waste and burn tissue

  • Never cut down wood for fire making. Use dead branches

  • Ensure fires are completely out and cleared before moving on

  • Nudity causes offence in Thai culture; wear a modest swimming costume when bathing

Dora Ball travelled to Thailand with support from Rickshaw Travel. Lonely Planet contributors do not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage.

A first-time guide to Svalbard

Your first visit to Svalbard may seem a bit daunting – located midway between Norway and the North Pole, this remote Norwegian island is a land of extreme climate, glaciers and polar bears. This, combined with Svalbard’s unique laws, can make it feel far removed from the rest of the world.

The Svalbard archipelago consists of three islands: Spitsbergen, Edgeøya and Nordaustlandet. Most of the tourist activity takes place on Spitsbergen, centered around the settlement of Longyearbyen. Accommodation is limited to mostly traditional hotels, although a small number of hostel rooms and self-catering apartments are available near Longyearbyen.

Here’s what you need to know about visiting Svalbard for the first time.

Why you should visit Svalbard

If you’ve ever dreamed of waking up to a view of glaciers glittering in a sun that never sets or dog-sledding under the northern lights, Svalbard is the destination for you. Accessible from mainland Norway, this archipelago retains a real sense of adventure, and its main town, Longyearbyen, is a frontier outpost poised on the edge of one of the harshest – and most awe-inspiring – wildernesses in the world.

If you’re intrigued by the polar north, Svalbard should definitely be on your list – realistically, this is the farthest north most of us are ever likely to get. Wrap up and spend as much time as you can out in the wild landscape. Wildlife watching and glacier-spotting cruises or kayak trips are great in the summer, or opt for a hike with the proper safety precautions (remember, this is polar bear country). You can hop on a snowmobile or take a ride on a dog-sled at any time of year.

The wilderness and wildlife are the big draws, but there are some conventional sights to see, too. Unfortunately, you can’t visit Svalbard’s remarkable Global Seed Vault without special permission, so you’ll have to make do with snapping a picture from afar. The fascinating Svalbard Museum is well worth a couple of hours of your time, with its displays on the life formerly led by whalers, trappers, seal and walrus hunters and miners.

For something a bit different, head to Svalbard Bryggeri, the northernmost brewery in the world. A tour with tastings costs 429 NOK, and you can book in advance. If you can’t make it to the brewery, pick up some cans in a grocery store.

A blue iceberg in Nordfjorden, Svalbard
Boat trips to photograph whales and icebergs are a popular way to explore Svalbard. Rixipix / iStockphoto / Getty Images

Do I need a visa for Svalbard?

You do not need a visa to travel to Svalbard specifically, though you’ll likely pass through mainland Norway on your way, which does require a Norwegian visa.

Interestingly, you do not even need a visa to work here! If you are truly captivated by your trip and wish to move north, it’s legal for anyone of any nationality to immigrate – you just need to acquire employment and housing prior to arriving.

How do I get to Svalbard?

Both Norwegian Air and SAS fly from Oslo to Longyearbyen, and between the two carriers, you’ll be able to get a flight most days of the week. You can also get a flight from Tromsø – in fact, even if your flight says it is direct from Oslo, it may stop at Tromsø, and you’ll have to disembark for passport control.

If you are connecting directly to Svalbard via Oslo airport, you should also check ahead to see if you need a Schengen visa for Norway, as Svalbard is not part of the Schengen area.

Arctic fox in a tundra landscape, Svalbard
Look out for Arctic foxes, which change color from white to grey with the seasons. Banu R / iStockphoto / Getty Images

The best time to go to Svalbard

Most people visit Svalbard in the summer season (May to September). The snow starts to melt in May, making it easier to get around, and it’s a busier time for tourism, with more flights from Oslo and more cruise ships docking at Longyearbyen.

This is also the best time of year for wildlife watching. Come in June, and you’ll have a good chance of spotting walrus, polar bears and even whales on a cruise. You’ll also be experiencing this under 24 hours of daylight until the end of August, when the sun begins to set again. Overall, it’s an easier experience to visit during the warmer months.

That being said, Svalbard was made for adventurous travel, and some are drawn to its endless polar nights. The sun disappears entirely from the end of October to February, but that doesn’t mean that Svalbard comes to a standstill – you can still enjoy activities such as snowmobiling and dog sledding, and there’s a good chance of spotting the northern lights. Just be sure to pack for the conditions – winter temperatures can drop as low as −20°C (−4°F).

Is it easy to get around Svalbard?

Public transport is almost non-existent in Svalbard, with the exception of the shuttle bus to Longyearbyen from the airport. The journey takes just minutes, and the bus is timed to coincide with all arrivals and departures and will drop you straight to your accommodation. A return ticket costs 170 NOK.

If you leave Longyearbyen, you’ll probably be with a tour guide. Most visitors explore the area outside town on guided excursions, which often include transfers to and from your accommodation. These tours can take you to ice caves, fjords and the active mining settlement of Barentsburg to see the industry that shaped Svalbard. There are also northern lights tours in winter.

Arctic Autorent is the biggest car rental company in Svalbard, and it has an office at the airport. You can book ahead online, and prices start from 1090 NOK a day. However, you should note that roads are limited once you leave Longyearbyen; you will not be able to get to other settlements like Barentsburg or Ny-Ålesund by car. There are also two taxi services in town; call ahead and book if you want to get a lift somewhere.

The most common form of transport you’ll see in Svalbard is the snowmobile; one (or two!) of these vehicles are parked outside practically every home. Plenty of tour operators can arrange a rented snowmobile if you’d like to drive one yourself (electric models are often available).

Don’t let the Arctic weather stop you from exploring Longyearbyen on foot – the locals don’t! Crampons for your shoes will make this an easier endeavor.

Polar Bear walks across sea ice at entrance to Woodfjorden as midnight sun lights up distant mountains
Polar bears are both the biggest attraction and the biggest danger in Svalbard. Paul Souders / Getty Images

Safety precautions when leaving Longyearbyen

As you approach the town limits of Longyearbyen, you’ll notice striking road signs with a polar bear on them. Go past these signs, and you’ll be required to take safety precautions in case you encounter a polar bear.

At the very minimum, you should have equipment that will scare off polar bears, such as a flare gun with multiple flares. However, a rifle – and the necessary firearms safety experience – is safer still. If you’re leaving on an organized excursion, you won’t need to worry about safety protocols, as your guide will have all the necessary equipment.

It’s always wise to have a professional guide with you whenever you leave the town limits. If you are planning to travel independently, you’ll need to familiarize yourself with the extensive safety precautions and regulations from the Governor’s office far in advance. Ensure that you bring or rent all the necessary equipment, including an emergency beacon, map and compass – and that you have the skills to use them. You also need to alert the Governor’s office of your trip beforehand.

Bring your good socks!

Leave your worn, tired socks at home, because in Svalbard, your shoeless feet will be on show…a lot! Svalbard was dominated by coal mining for a long time, and workers were required to leave their boots at the door to avoid bringing the black dust inside. Coal mining is dwindling on the islands but the tradition remains; you’ll be required to remove your shoes in your accommodation and in restaurants and bars (though not in shops).

Most accommodation places provide you with slippers, but you might want to bring your own for comfort. At the very least, bring decent, warm socks.

Man hiking in the Spitsbergen Mountains in Svalbard
You’ll need the right safety equipment and cold-weather gear if you plan to hike in Svalbard. redtea / Getty Images

How to keep well in Svalbard

If you’re coming from somewhere with a more temperate climate, conditions in Svalbard can feel extreme, even in the summer. You might experience some sleep disruption – it can be difficult to wind down in 24-hour daylight and tough to wake up at the right time in the constant darkness of winter.

Unless you’re visiting at the very height of summer – when temperatures can reach a balmy 10°C (50°F) – it will likely be very, very cold. A heavy-duty moisturizer and lip balm will help protect your skin from getting too dry. Carry some Vaseline and apply a thin layer just inside your nostrils to protect your sinuses from the sudden change to cold, dry air.

For the summer, a good eye mask is essential, and a medicinal supplement such as melatonin may help you drift off to sleep at the right time. Try to maintain a good sleep routine, and close those black-out curtains for a couple of hours before attempting to sleep. If shuteye eludes you, don’t worry – the sun will probably give you enough energy during the day to make it through your activities, even if everything seems difficult when you first get up.

How to protect the landscape in Svalbard while you explore

Although you should be careful when traveling through any natural landscape, even stricter rules apply in Svalbard due to the fragile nature of the High Arctic environment. Don’t disturb the birds or other animals, and familiarize yourself with the no-go areas for vehicles and snowmobiles if you are traveling independently. It’s prohibited to actively bait or pursue polar bears, both for their safety and your own. Rabies is also a risk; the disease can be carried by reindeer and Arctic foxes.

If you visit Svalbard in the summer, don’t pick the flowers. And, of course, don’t leave any evidence of your trip behind in the form of litter or other waste.

Houses in Longyearbyen in the snow, Svalbard
Be ready for extremes of climate when you visit Longyearbyen. Sasha_Suzi / Getty Images

What to pack for the Svalbard weather

Here’s a packing list to make sure you’re prepared for all the Svalbard adventures you can handle.

  • Long wool underwear

  • Wool socks and gloves

  • Fleece layer

  • Outer wind-proof layer

  • Waterproof boots

  • Slippers

  • Comfortable indoor clothes for your hotel

  • A camera with a long lens

There are some extra seasonal items you’ll need, too. For winter, bring a down jacket, crampons for your shoes, a headlamp and a reflective vest. For summer, bring high-factor sunscreen, good-quality sunglasses and an eye mask.

Mother walrus and her cub on the ice in Svalbard
Bring a camera with a long lens for close-up shots of wildlife. Ondrej Prosicky / Shutterstock

How much money do I need in Svalbard?

As most visitors pack their days with costly excursions, Svalbard isn’t a cheap destination to visit. However, unless you’re planning on taking a hardcore, multi-day trek across the archipelago, you can experience the highlights in a short trip of two to three days.

For day-to-day living, Svalbard has the same high prices as other Scandinavian destinations. All food has to be imported, which increases the cost of meals and provisions, but this is offset slightly by the fact there is no VAT in Svalbard. In fact, if you need to stock up on outdoor gear or clothing, it will probably be cheaper to get it here than in mainland Norway.

Average daily costs in Svalbard:

  • Hostel room – 1000–1900 NOK

  • Basic room for two – 1900–3100 NOK

  • Self-catering apartment (including Airbnb) – 1500–3000 NOK

  • Coffee – 40 NOK

  • Dinner for two – from 300 NOK for pizza to 900 NOK for steaks

  • A pint of beer at the bar – 80 NOK

Keep planning your trip to Norway:

Plan the vacation of a lifetime with the best things to do in Norway
Navigate Norways fjords and islands with this handy guide
What you need to know about chasing the northern lights

AnneMarie traveled to Svalbard at the invitation of Volvo Penta. Lonely Planet staff members do not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage.

The best places to go in Europe in August

Summer in Europe is sublime ⁠– but it’s also one of the busiest months on the continent for tourism, which means you’ll be sharing the majesty with plenty of other people.

Luckily, we have some recommendations from our book Where to Go When Europe that will take you away from the crowds and to the many magical corners of the continent. Here are six incredible places to go in Europe in August.

Albanian Riveria

Why now? Sizzle on the sand at lesser-known Ionian Sea swathes.

While not quite the hidden gem that it was at the turn of the millennium when empty beaches and truly bargain prices abounded, Albania’s glorious southern shoreline remains a treat for those in search of sun, sand and seafood. Saranda is now a fully-fledged party town, its esplanade lined with bars. For quieter resorts, head up the coast to Himara, flanked by a scattering of good beaches (try Potami, just to the south). In August, you’re guaranteed sun, balmy water and temperatures nudging 30°C (86°F); unsurprisingly, loungers and beach umbrellas are at a premium but you can still seek out peaceful patches of sand at spots such as Palasa, Borsh, pebbly Bunec and the islands off Ksamil. Or head over to the epic Llogara Pass to Vlora Bay, where you’ll find more resorts and boat trips to isolated beaches at the end of the Karaburuni Peninsula. For a break from sand-lolling, head to the archaeological site of Butrint, where Greek, Roman and Byzantine ruins, some dating back 2500 years, are crammed onto a knobbly headland.

Stone buildings sit on the edge of a light blue coast.
Visit the picturesque Damouchari beach on the east coast of the Pelion Peninsula © Getty Images / iStockphoto

Pelion Peninsula, Greece

Why now? Cool off in balmy waters or traditional hillside villages.

Sure, you could bake on busy beaches on a Greek island. But in sizzling August, head instead for cool Pelion, the gnarled finger curling into the Aegean to tickle the Sporades. There’s a range of coastal resorts, mostly more isolated and peaceful than elsewhere: try Horto or Milina on the sheltered west coast or busier Horefto, Agios Ioannis and cute Damouhari near beautiful Fakistra beach on the east coast. The mountainous interior is packed with natural and cultural appeal – this is where mythical centaurs came to carouse – with ancient cobbled paths linking traditional villages where you can admire church frescoes, sip grape-based, rakı-like tsipouro in the shade of venerable plane trees, and savor local specialties such as spetsofaï (pork-sausage stew), fasoladha (butter bean soup) and lamb in lemon sauce. Up here, the air’s a good few degrees lower than on the coast, and in summer you can board the narrow-gauge train that chugs from Ano Lechonia to Milies, running daily in July and August.

Intricate stairs lead up to a church in Portugal.
Explore beautiful architecture like the Santuário do Bom Jesus do Monte in Braga © Lev Levin / Shutterstock

Minho, Portugal

Why now? Tuck into the tasty green heart of old Portugal.

Where do the Portuguese holiday at home? Those in the know savor staycations in the birthplace of the kingdom: the northerly Minho region, a land of verdant hills, traditional culture and fabulous flavors. The Minho is noted for its vinho verde, literally “green wine,” released just a few months after harvest. As well as those fruity drops (Loureiro and Alvarinho are our picks), the cuisine is delectable, too – the Minho was designated as a European Region of Gastronomy in 2016. There are plenty of local specialties. In Ponte de Lima, Portugal’s oldest town, find a restaurant overlooking the Roman bridge and savor arroz de sarrabulho – rice cooked in pig’s blood and studded with various pork morsels (tastier than it sounds) – and caldo verde, a hearty kale soup. Monkfish, sea bass and bream are fish favorites, along with bacalhau – salt cod, a staple throughout the country. Work up an appetite strolling historic towns such as Braga, Guimarães and Viana do Castelo, where magnificently diverse architecture recalls the wealth of adventurous merchants who made their fortunes during the Age of Discovery and in the subsequent colonial era.

Aerial of Bad Ischl, a spa town in the centre of the Salzkammergut region.
Bad Ischl is a spa town in the centre of the Salzkammergut region © saiko3p / Getty Images

Central Austria

Why now? Spa yourself happy amid glorious mountain scenery.

To find wellness in Austria, look for the Bad in everything – at least, in place names: if it starts with Bad, it’s a spa town. A dense cluster of saunas, treatment centers and thermal waters studs a broad swathe of central Austria east and south of Salzburg, most with a suitably uplifting backdrop of Alpine peaks, meadows and valleys. The focus varies subtly from place to place. In Bad Aussee, expect a healthy diet plus outdoor activity, in line with the concepts of Kneipp therapy. The benefits of brine have been promoted in stately Bad Ischl since it received the imperial seal of approval in the mid-19th century. Natural hot springs feed the action at Bad Gastein, with forest bathing and barefoot walking added to the mix in neighboring Bad Hofgastein, which hosts one of Europe’s largest thermal spa complexes. But you won’t want to stay inside during the long, warm days of August: roam the picturesque paths circling the Salzkammergut’s sparkling lakes, pedal mountain-bike trails above Bad Gastein, or take an invigorating dip in an alpine tarn.

Belgium's coastal tram moves ahead in front of the sea.
Belgium’s coastal tram is a wonderfully scenic way to explore smaller towns along the shore © SankyPix / Shutterstock

Coastal Belgium

Why now? Trundle the world’s longest tram route and taste delectable seafood.

Belgium might not be your obvious go-to destination for a beach break. But with an almost unbroken 70km (44 mile) stretch of white sand fringing the North Sea, perhaps it should be – around the turn of the 20th century, it lured fashionable holidaymakers to its resorts. Today the Belgian coast is studded with attractions – aquariums, theme parks, watersports – all accessible aboard the Kusttram (Coastal Tram). This venerable tram line, established in 1885, is the world’s longest, stretching 67km (42 miles) between De Panne in the west and Knokke-Heist in the east. August, the warmest month, is a great time to ride the rails, with a host of events including a fireworks festival in Knokke- Heist and, at De Haan, a celebration of prawns – these delicious crustaceans are a specialty here. On summer weekends you can ride a vintage tram from the depot at De Panne.

Boat houses on harbour in hamlet of Bruket, a lush part of the Stockholm peninsula.
Soak up the best of summer in Sweden in a town like Bruket © Matt Munro / Lonely Planet

Stockholm Archipelago, Sweden

Why now? Island-hop the coastal capital on long summer days.

Less a city, more a wooded archipelago that happens to host some important buildings, Sweden’s capital is unreasonably attractive – and never more so than in sunny August, when the sun glints on the water and the many parks beckon. Stockholm has enough cultural attractions to pack several days, from the cobbled alleys of Gamla Stan (Old Town) to exceptional contemporary galleries and museums (including open-air Skansen), while the sleek modern shopping district of Nordmalm offers ample welcoming cafés and restaurants for the all-important fika (coffee and cake break). It’s easy to roam the 14 main islands on foot, or by bike or metro, but there are tens of thousands more islets and rocks in the archipelago that are best explored by ferry, on a boat cruise or – better yet – by kayak. Watch for ospreys, beavers and grey seals in various choice spots around the archipelago.

When is the best time to visit Bora Bora?

With its turquoise lagoon, blonde beaches and towering mountain backdrop, Bora Bora is the living definition of a tropical island paradise. Usually pictured under clear, blue skies or bathed by fiery sunsets, this is the luxury island escape that people dream of – and thanks to warm temperatures year-round, there’s no such thing as a bad time to visit.

From snorkeling alongside rays and reef sharks to hikes to mountain viewpoints and ancient ceremonial sites, passing time on Bora Bora is truly a balm to the soul. However, those cloudless blue skies that you’ve seen on social media don’t paint the whole picture – Bora Bora is buffeted by the moisture-laded winds of the South Pacific and the island has a warm, humid rainy season from December to March.

But don’t let a few raindrops put you off – even a visit in the rainy season has its advantages! Here’s what you need to know about the best times to visit Bora Bora.

A white sand beach under palm trees on Bora Bora, French Polynesia.
Bora Bora in the dry season is a vision of tropical perfection. Johny Goerend/500px

May to October is the best time for blue skies and sunshine

Bora Bora’s dry season takes place during the southern hemisphere winter from May to October. The dry months see low levels of rainfall, so you can be confident of clear blue skies with plenty of sunshine for much of your stay. Temperatures during the winter are also less intense than during the summer months, with daytime highs of around 28°C (82°F).

Ideal weather for basking in the sun makes the dry season the most popular time to visit Bora Bora. Unfortunately, this means higher prices at resorts, and bigger crowds across the island. If this is your dream time to visit, start looking at flights well in advance as seats get snapped up quickly.

Though the high season kicks off in May, the main crowds won’t arrive for a few more weeks. Water conditions are ideal for scuba diving and the Tahiti Pearl Regatta sailing race draws teams from across the globe.

By June, you’ll notice a drop in temperatures at night and the humidity decreases too, making this a perfect month to visit. This is also when school holidays start in North America and Europe, bringing lots of vacationing families to the resorts. The wind tends to pick up in June, creating prime conditions for sailing and kiteboarding, but decreasing the visibility for scuba diving.

Woman dancing in traditional costume surrounded by palm trees, Bora Bora.
Traditional dancing and colorful costumes mark out Bora Bora’s biggest festivals. Getty Images

Bora Bora’s biggest cultural festival, Heive i Bora Bora takes place in July; expect plenty of carnival-like performances, singing, boat racing and all-round revelry across the island. August tends to be the busiest month and this is when most European visitors head to the island. The trade winds make the heat less intense and long hours of sunshine make for blissful times on the beach.

Things start to quiet down a bit in September as families visiting from the northern hemisphere head home, but this is the height of humpback whale season in Bora Bora, which runs from mid-July to the end of October. Whales with calves gather in the waters surrounding the island; you can’t swim with them here as you can in Mo’orea, but there are plenty of excellent whale-watching tours.

October marks the end of the high season. Towards the end of the month, you’ll notice more humidity and rain but there’s still a lot of sunshine to enjoy. Local school holidays during this month bring island families to the beaches and scuba divers return to the water as it tends to be calm, meaning great visibility.

A diver watching majestic manta rays glide through the water in Bora Bora.
The shoulder seasons see lower prices and great conditions for diving. Bernard Radvaner/Getty Images

Come in April and November for diving, mild weather and fair prices

The months of April and November fall between the wet and dry seasons, offering some of the advantages of both. During these months, you’ll see fewer crowds and you can find some generous deals from resorts, but the weather still brings plenty of sunshine.

There will be some rain and humidity, though the rain showers tend to pass quite quickly. April brings the start of the main scuba diving season and the absence of strong winds makes for calm, clear waters – perfect for spotting sharks, manta rays, barracudas and more out in the deep blue.

Excellent underwater visibility also draws divers and snorkelers in November, another popular time for underwater adventures. In late October and early November, the Hawaiki Nui Va’a festival is a wonderfully fun and hectic time to visit, with canoe races around the island and islets; join the locals and cheer on your favorite towards victory!

A rainbow breaking over the mountains in Bora Bora, French Polynesia.
The low season brings rain to Bora Bora, but also rainbows. Getty Images

December to March is the best time to visit on a budget

As Bora Bora’s dry season comes to an end, the days start to get cloudier and there’s an increased chance of rain. The temperatures creep up a little higher and the humidity starts to kick in. This change in the weather ushers in the low season for tourism, but this can be advantageous to travelers who have a limited budget and don’t mind a few clouds in the sky. Cyclones (hurricanes) are rare but they can blow through at this time of year.

During the rainy season, many of the island’s top resorts drop their rates as demand falls. This makes a plush stay at an overwater bungalow resort, such as the luxurious Four Seasons Bora Bora, much more affordable. Another advantage to the low season is the lack of crowds. As most visitors plan their trips to maximize those iconic blue skies, you can end up with an entire beach to yourself when the weather is more unpredictable.

December is the most humid month in Bora Bora but the cloudy skies don’t put a dampener on Christmas. Enthusiastic celebrations happen across the island as locals throw themselves into the holiday spirit; tourists are made to feel very welcome at local events.

A group of tourists snorkel in the crystal clear shallows of the French Polynesian island of Bora Bora.
You don’t need cloudless skies to enjoy the underwater world in Bora Bora. Getty Images

Visitor numbers are at their lowest in January. If you decide to snap up an off-season hotel deal, time your trip to coincide with the Taurua Varua festival – one of the most important religious occasions in the islands, celebrated with traditional singing.

February sees less rain than January, though this month has the highest chance of a cyclone. As French Polynesia lies off the main cyclone belt, these are quite rare but the chance is still there (the last major cyclone was in 2010). Humidity remains high, which can be uncomfortable during the day, but it also brings some of the most incredible sunsets you’ll ever see. Again, tourism is slow during this month so prices tend to be lower at resorts.

As March rolls in, the rain decreases further, though you’ll likely experience some showers and high humidity. Tourists are still scarce but locals join competitions to find Bora Bora’s best orero (guardian of spoken history).

Ultimate Weekend in the Bahamas: Nassau and Cat Island Itinerary

Few places conjure up images in the mind’s eye quite like the Bahamas. Imagine impossibly blue waters, swaying palm trees and sugar-sand beaches that spill across a horizon painted in watercolor hues, all set to the Junkanoo rhythms of a Goombay drum. The good news? It’s possible to find all of this in one weekend; you just have to know where to look. 

This Bahamas weekend itinerary balances the historic charm and lively beats of Nassau, this island nation’s biggest city, with a lesser-known gem just a 30-minute flight to the east – gorgeous Cat Island. While Nassau offers a taste of Bahamian city life, Cat Island is where those quintessential Bahamian dreams – from secluded beaches to authentic local experiences – truly come to life.

  • When to arrive: Arrive in Nassau on a Thursday so you have some time to explore the Bahamian capital before heading to Cat Island, which is served by daily flights on Western Air. The best time to visit is from December to April, when the weather is ideal for exploring – warm rather than baking hot, and dry, though it’s also the busiest season, so expect crowds.

  • How to get around and what to pack: Cars are the primary way to get around in the Bahamas
    so consider renting a car or using taxis and hotel shuttles. Traffic
    follows the British system, with left-hand drive vehicles – drive on the left and stay alert if you
    aren’t used to driving like this. Essentials to pack include sunglasses, reef-safe
    sunscreen, a swimsuit and water shoes for rocky sections of shoreline.

  • Where to stay:
    In Nassau, choose between the luxurious Baha Mar (from $275/night, plus fees), spanning three Grand Hyatt, SLS and Rosewood properties with great beaches and pools, or Atlantis (from $224, plus fees), with seven
    accommodation options ranging from family-friendly to ultra-luxurious,
    plus a water park and a marine habitat with aquariums and sealife-filled pools. On Cat Island, Rollezz Beach
    Villas Resort (from $259) offers private beachside villas, while
    Greenwood Resort (from $180) is ideal for water babies with diving, snorkeling
    and kite surfing available right off the beach.

Clockwise from left: Bottles of rum at John Watling’s Distillery, the back patio of the John Watling’s Distillery estate, Queen’s Staircase. Getty Images; Alexander Howard/Lonely Planet (2)
Clockwise from left: Bottles of rum at John Watling’s Distillery, the back patio of the John Watling’s Distillery estate, Queen’s Staircase. Getty Images; Alexander Howard/Lonely Planet (2)

Thursday: Experience Nassau

How to spend the day 

Use your first day in the Bahamas to get acclimated to Nassau’s fascinating and complex history. Make your first stop the Fort Fincastle Historic Complex – built in the late 1700s to defend Nassau from pirates. The fort’s location on top of Society Hill and Bennet’s Hill provides a prime vantage point for panoramic views of the city. Be sure to stop by the iconic Queen’s Staircase (aka The 66 Steps) to learn about this leafy historic landmark, carved out of solid limestone by enslaved Africans. 

Now about those pirates… The Caribbean’s golden age of piracy ran from the late 1600s to the early 1700s, and Nassau was a “hotbed of pirate activity” according to some historical accounts. Set on a pedestrianized section of George St in downtown Nassau, the Pirates of Nassau Museum offers an informative if somewhat corny look at the islands’ pirate history (think lots of tricorn hats and plastic cutlasses). 

An arguably more authentic stop is John Watling’s Distillery, a historic rum distillery housed in a wonderfully restored 18th-century estate. Named after a 17th-century buccaneer, the distillery offers brief but informative (and free) tours, touching on everything from the islands’ pirate history to the complexities of rum making. Kick back in the tasting room for a flight of rum, or sample the delicious house piña colada.

Vintage vibes pervade at Bon Vivants Cocktail Bar in Nassau. Alexander Howard/Lonely Planet
Vintage vibes pervade at Bon Vivants Cocktail Bar in Nassau. Alexander Howard/Lonely Planet

For dinner 

Continue the historic vibes with a meal at Graycliff Hotel & Restaurant, housed in a mansion dating back to 1726. The Graycliff’s elegance is palpable – the interior is heavy on dark wood, vintage artwork and Victorian-style furniture, and a scent of tobacco lingers in the air (the Graycliff brand also makes its own cigars).

On the menu, you’ll find a fusion of Bahamian and European flavors, with dishes such as truffle ravioli and fresh conch salad as precursors to mains like hog snapper filet and beef tenderloin. Note that there’s a dress code – trousers are required and a jacket is recommended. That said, during my visit, attire was a tad more Margaritaville than Monte Carlo.

After dark

If you still have energy, give one of Nassau’s cocktail bars a try. Bon Vivants Cocktail Bar at Sandyport blends craft cocktails with colorful tropical decor.

You'll see Cat Island's dreamy sands from the air as you approach the island airport. Getty Images
You’ll see Cat Island’s dreamy sands from the air as you approach the island airport. Getty Images

Friday: Travel to Cat Island

Morning 

Start off the day with a stroll along the beach. I stayed at the Grand Hyatt Baha Mar, so I wandered down to the hotel’s Cable Beach, festooned with empty lounge chairs. The water was a perfect Caribbean blue, with its surface broken by just a handful of early-bird swimmers. Other options closer to downtown Nassau include Junkanoo Beach, which is livelier and more popular with locals, and Saunders Beach, which is quieter and ideal for a peaceful morning walk.

Get some breakfast 

Nesbitt’s, about 25 minutes from downtown at Delaporte Point, is a top breakfast joint. Bahamian-flag banners hang from the ceiling and a jukebox stocked with hits from the sixties, seventies and eighties sits in the corner. The furniture is simple but practical – folding tables and aluminum chairs are scattered around the dining area, and the patio offers a view of the sea. Try their red snapper stew – a delicious, creamy, slightly spicy dish with hints of thyme and garlic, served with a side of grits and tangy scotch bonnet sauce.

Catch your flight 

Head to the airport to catch your early afternoon flight to Cat Island. There’s only one service daily so get there early and listen for boarding announcements; the flight has been known to take off early if all passengers are checked in. You’ll be traveling on a small regional jet with limited baggage space, so you’ll probably need to check your carry-on bag before boarding. Flight time is around half an hour – book a window seat and you’ll spend all 30 minutes with your nose pressed to the glass looking out at those islands sprinkled across the sea.

Rocky plays guitar during dinner at Rollezz Villas Beach Resort. Alexander Howard/Lonely Planet
Rocky plays guitar during dinner at Rollezz Villas Beach Resort. Alexander Howard/Lonely Planet

Arriving on Cat Island 

There are few sea routes to Cat Island aside from a mail boat that takes 12-15 hours to cross from Nassau (an adventure in itself). Planes provide the main connection between Cat Island and the rest of the Bahamas. Arrange pickup with your accommodation, or rent a car from Gilbert’s Car Rental.

Cat Island’s main airport (aka New Bight Airport) is a charming, single-runway affair with a small terminal building housing a single ticketing desk, a security check and bathrooms (departing passengers wait underneath a canopy outside the terminal building). You might have to wait a bit for your luggage, so linger around the parking lot and observe the lively sense of community here.

Use the afternoon to explore the beaches

Cat Island is a long strip of land shaped like a fishhook, with its eye pointing northwest, and hitting the beaches is the best way to settle in on arrival. Typically beaches on the eastern shore, facing the Atlantic, are more exposed to the elements, with moderate waves depending on the weather. On the west side, the beaches are usually calmer.

The beach at Rollezz Villas Beach Resort is one of the best, a west-facing strip of powdery sand that’s primed for gorgeous sunsets. On the east side of the island, Greenwood Beach Resort is one of the Bahamas’ pink-sand beaches (it’s a gentle hue, but pinkish nonetheless). Dine at your hotel and set an alarm so you can be up bright and early on Saturday to explore.

Left: Harrison King tells a story in his vegetable patch; right: Beach chairs on Cat Island. Alexander Howard/Lonely Planet
Left: Harrison King tells a story in his vegetable patch; right: Beach chairs on Cat Island. Alexander Howard/Lonely Planet

Saturday: Explore Cat Island

Morning

Time to take in Cat Island’s main sights. First, head to the Healing Pond for a refreshing dip; this natural pool has a high mineral content and salinity, and it’s believed that a dunk here will cure all sorts of aches and pains. The story goes that locals discovered the water’s healing properties after bathing their workhorses – following a soak, the horses came out refreshed and ready to work. Whatever’s going on here, the Healing Pond is a pleasing place to bathe – the high salt content will keep you afloat, and the water has a nice, silky quality. Bring water shoes as the shore of the pool is rocky and sharp.

For lunch

Be sure to visit Lakeview Motel & Restaurant on the south side of the island. Owned and operated by local legend Harrison King, the restaurant serves Bahamian favorites such as conch fritters, fried mahi-mahi, pumpkin, cassava and fresh salad. On Cat Island, local residents wear many hats, and Harrison King has been a school bus driver, police officer, local farmer and motel owner at various times.

If he’s around, he’ll entertain you with stories of life on the island, and anecdotes about getting lost while land crab hunting, or what it’s like to wear a badge on one of the Bahamas’s most laid-back islands. Ask and he’ll show you around one of his nearby farms, and share insights into the tough but rewarding work of local farmers on Cat Island. That watermelon for dessert? It was likely plucked straight from one of Harrison King’s plots.

In the afternoon

Once sated, set your sights on Mt Alvernia, the Bahamas’s highest point at 206ft. Although a modest hummock by mountain standards, the site holds outsized historical significance. Atop the hand-carved steps to the mountain’s peak sits the Hermitage, a tiny monastery built by the architect-hermit Father Jerome in the 1940s. The monastery’s stone walls add historical weight to the bushy hilltop, and the view is one of the best on the island, taking in 360 degrees of shoreline.

For a while, Cat Island was thought to be Guanahani, the Lucayan name for the island where Christopher Columbus first made landfall in 1492. Today, most historians believe Guanahani was actually the island of San Salvador to the east, but many locals still insist Cat Island was the spot.

Whichever island Columbus reached first, the arrival of the Spanish had a huge impact on the Caribbean, and the world. Over the ensuing decades, Spanish forces eradicated the Indigenous Lucayan population through genocide and enslavement, and the Caribbean became the nexus of the Atlantic Slave Trade.

Prior to emancipation in 1834, there were as many as 50 plantations on tiny Cat Island (an island of a little more than 150 square miles). Twenty of these have been identified, including the ruined but still recognizable Deveaux Plantation, an 18th-century cotton plantation that was home to Colonel Andrew Deveaux.

The colonel was gifted this plot of land by the British after helping to protect Nassau from the Spanish in 1783. Today, just the walls and a few ceiling beams are standing in the main house, and the exterior stucco is cracked and weathered. In the cookhouse behind, a huge tree emerges through the open ceiling, as if reclaiming the land from this dark period in Bahamian history.

The Milky Way rises over Cat Island. Alexander Howard/Lonely Planet
The Milky Way rises over Cat Island. Alexander Howard/Lonely Planet

Dinner and drinks

Nightlife on Cat Island is typically a staid affair, but if you’re lucky you might catch an authentic rake and scrape session. Traditionally played with a goatskin drum and a carpenter’s saw and screwdriver, rake and scrape is the quintessential folk music of the Bahamas.

Thought to have originated in Turks & Caicos, this informal dance music was created by the descendants of enslaved Africans, who used everyday objects as instruments. Today, you’re likely to hear an accordion or guitar as part of the accompaniment, but the rhythmic scraping of the saw is the style’s hallmark.

On Cat Island, local bars such as Yardie’s in New Bight or Hidden Treasures in Arthur’s Town occasionally host enthusiastic rake-and-scrape nights. Don’t be shy – rake and scrape is participatory, and you might be asked to join in and learn a step or two (even yours truly was able to pick up the simple heel-toe movement of the “conch step”). The island’s annual Rake & Scrape Festival happens in May or June.

Left: Guava bread from Olive’s Bakery, Right: herbalist Peggy Johnson. Alexander Howard/Lonely Planet
Left: Guava bread from Olive’s Bakery, Right: herbalist Peggy Johnson. Alexander Howard/Lonely Planet

Sunday: A last taste of Cat Island

Morning: 

Before catching your noon flight out of Cat Island, swing by Olive’s Bakery in New Bight for guava bread, a sweet treat common across the tropics, made from chopped guava, flour, brown sugar, cinnamon and vanilla. 

For a parting glimpse of the island’s intriguing culture, be sure to stop at Sweet P’s Bush Teas (call ahead to confirm they’re open). Here, local herbalist Peggy Johnson concocts natural teas using herbs, spices, flower petals and leaves found on the island.

Peggy will show you how she makes everything, from specialty teas such as “soursop” (a cure-all tonic, said to boost immunity, aid digestion and stabilize blood pressure) to boutique soaps. This isn’t your grandmother’s chamomile – according to Peggy, several of her elixirs actually have the power to enhance longevity.

By the time you leave, you’ll be eyeing every leaf and petal in sight, wondering about their hidden powers, but resist the urge to brew your own backyard blend – leave the magic to Peggy and her years of experience!

Leaving the Bahamas

As I boarded my flight home from Cat Island, the flavors of guava bread and bush teas still lingered. Beginning the slow, lumbering journey that is modern air travel back to the US, I pondered the richness of my experiences in the Bahamas.

Everything I’d pictured before arrival was there – pristine waters just outside my door at Rollezz Villas Beach Resort, plenty of palm trees, more beautiful sunsets than I would see in a month back home – but there was more.

I discovered a complicated colonial history in the decaying plantations that dot the island, a rich musical tradition in an upbeat rake and scrape jam session, and some damn good food. And I barely scratched the surface – there are still 700 more islands and cays to explore. I’ll be back for sure…