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A first-time guide to Isla Mujeres

A 15-minute ferry ride away from Cancún, you’ll find Isla Mujeres an elongated tropical paradise just five miles long and half a mile wide. 

This laid-back Caribbean island owes its name to Ixchel, the Mayan goddess of fertility, love, pregnancy and birth – mujeres meaning women in Spanish. Legend has it that when the Spanish arrived at Isla Mujeres, they discovered a sanctuary dedicated to worshipping the goddess. 

In time, the island is said to have become a refuge for pirates and smugglers and later morphed into a fishing village.

These days, Isla Mujeres is a Pueblo Mágico – a designation given to the most picturesque of Mexican towns – and its sandy shores are visited by millions each year. 

Whether you’re after a relaxed holiday steeped in Mexican hospitality or are drawn to it for its proximity to the Mesoamerican Reef – the second-largest coral reef system in the world – Isla Mujeres is sure to charm you. 

Large Whale shark (Rhincodon typus) glides gracefully underwater as it feeds on plankton off of mexico.
If you want to go swimming with whale sharks head here between June and September. Liquid Productions, LLC/Shutterstock

When should I go to Isla Mujeres?

One of the best things about Mexico is that its beaches are warm year-round. You should note, though, that June to November is hurricane season, so you might want to avoid traveling then – despite the alluring low prices. 

High season runs from January through April, so expect to pay top dollar if you’re planning a trip during this period. Overall, the best time to visit Isla Mujeres is from December to March, when the weather is at its most pleasant.

If swimming with whale sharks is on your bucket list, the best time to go to Isla Mujeres is between June and September – with July being peak whale shark season.

How much time should I spend in Isla Mujeres?

Its small size makes it easy to visit Isla Mujeres on a day trip from Cancún – you can walk from one end of the island to the other in approximately two hours.

However, to truly get a feel of the island – including its serene beaches and buzzy nightlife – it’s best to spend a couple of nights there. 

Is it easy to get in and around Isla Mujeres?

Isla Mujeres is easy to reach by ferry from the ferry terminals in Puerto Juárez, Cancún and the Hotel Zone. Ferries leave every 30 minutes or every hour, depending on the time of day. Keep the timetable handy, especially if visiting on a day trip. 

Once in Isla Mujeres, you can walk almost everywhere – or you can rent a golf cart to drive from the more developed Playa Norte to the rugged south of town in style. 

Top things to do in Isla Mujeres

Isla Mujeres, Quintana Roo / Mexico - September 2016: MUSA - The Museum of Underwater Art in Isla Mujeres near Cancun in Mexico
The Museum of Underwater Art can be viewed while diving, snorkeling or on a glass-bottom boat tour. Rob Atherton/Shutterstock

Explore an underwater museum

MUSA, the Underwater Museum of Art, is one of the most interesting museums you’ll ever come across.

Located off the southern coast of Isla Mujeres, it features over 500 life-size sculptures designed to promote the recovery of natural reefs. You can explore this underwater wonder by snorkeling, scuba diving or taking a glass-bottom boat tour.

Drive around town on a golf cart

One of the most popular modes of transportation in Isla Mujeres is a golf cart. Not only is this a practical way of getting across the island, but it also adds to the fun of discovering new places.

It’s especially useful if you’re only there for the day, as it shaves time off the two hours that you would take getting from Playa Norte to Punta Sur on foot. You’ll need a valid driver’s license to rent one.

People relax under palm tree on the white sand beaches
Lay your towel down and enjoy an afternoon relaxing on this near-perfect beach. Laura Winfree for Lonely Planet

Lounge on the beach

Said to be the most beautiful beach on the island, Playa Norte’s soft, white sand stretches for approximately half a mile.

Safe for swimming, you can keep going into the water for a while and the water will remain waist-deep, making it ideal for families. You’ll also find scores of cafes and restaurants in the area to while away the hours with a cocktail in hand and your toes in the sand. 

Other beaches to check out include Playa Centro – the first one you’ll spot from the ferry – and Playa Albatros. Together with Playa Norte, these are the three beaches on the island with Blue Flag certification.

Swim with whale sharks

The best time to swim with whale sharks in Isla Mujeres is from June to September. Drawn to warm waters in search of plankton and abundant fish, these gentle giants are easily spotted by taking a boat an hour and a half to two hours out to sea.

Isla Whale Sharks have knowledgeable and professional guides that show respect to their surroundings, the animals and their clients at all times. 

A couple driving a golf cart at a tropical beach on Isla Mujeres, Mexico
Golf carts are the quickest, easiest and most fun way to get around the island. Belikova Oksana/Shutterstock

My favorite thing to do in Isla Mujeres

Isla Mujeres was the first place I ever drove a golf cart, so I may be biased in saying it’s one of my favorite activities on the island.

But if I’m allowed a second pick, it’s got to be swinging over the waves near the ferry terminal. There’s no better way to pass the time before catching the ferry back to Cancún! Sunset on a swing with your feet in the waves? Yes, please!

How much money do I need for Isla Mujeres?

Isla Mujeres has options to suit every budget, from affordable hostels with a social scene to boutique hotels with oceanfront views.

You’ll even find luxurious stays offering laid-back island charm, complete with infinity pools and private beaches.

For dining, budget-friendly options include casual taquerías and local seafood spots, while those looking to splurge can enjoy upscale beachfront restaurants serving fresh lobster and cocktails with a view.

The time of year you visit plays a big role in costs. September to November is the most affordable, though it’s also the rainy season and falls within hurricane months.

For dry, sunny weather, December through March is ideal, but it’s also peak season – expect higher prices for accommodation and activities.

  • Hostel room: M$450-1300 (US$22-65) 

  • Basic room for two: M$1200-2000 (US$60-150) 

  • Self-catering apartment: M$1200-2500 (US$60-122) 

  • Ferry ticket: M$290 (US$14)

  • Coffee: M$60-80 (US$3-4)

  • Sandwich: M$60 (US$3)

  • Fish tacos: M$180-200 (US$9-10) for an order of three

  • Dinner for two at a mid-range restaurant: M$600-1200 (US$30-60)

  • Beer/pint at the bar: M$50 (US$3)

Is Isla Mujeres safe for travelers?

With very low crime rates, Isla Mujeres is considered a safe destination for travelers and can be enjoyed by taking standard precautions. The nearby naval base contributes to the island’s safety, with military patrols on the beaches and streets serving as a preventative measure.

Is the nightlife in Isla Mujeres as good as it is in Cancún?

If world-renowned clubs are important for your holiday enjoyment, you’re better off heading to Cancún for the night.

Still, Isla Mujeres does have its share of lively bars, namely the beach clubs on the Playa Norte end (you’ll find DJs and live music at some of them).

These 7 wine regions in the USA offer a perfect weekend getaway

Need inspiration for your next romantic getaway? Look no further than your wine glass.

More than just tastings in a vineyard and purchases of a few cases of that sauvignon blanc you loved, wine touring lets you discover the landscapes in which the grapes are grown, deepening the experience of enjoying a nice white or red, and building a personal connection to each varietal.

We’ve looked to Lonely Planet’s new edition of Wine Trails to adapt these ideas for a wine-touring weekend to remember. For these seven regions in the USA create not only standout wines, but lasting memories, too.

A field of grapevines with a house overlooking Cayuga Lake at Thirsty Owl Wine Company, Ovid, Finger Lakes, New York State, USA
The vineyards come with dramatic lake views in the Finger Lakes region of New York State © PQK / Shutterstock

1. Finger Lakes, New York State

Best for rieslings, pinot noirs and gorgeous lakeside views

With its harsh winters, the Finger Lakes of New York State represent one of the furthest limits of winemaking in North America. Winemakers here successfully introduced European vinifera grapes in the ’60s, and today a variety of vines grows along the shores of four of the region’s 11 very long, very deep lakes: Seneca, Cayuga, Keuka and Skaneateles.

A number of winemakers believe that riesling and pinot noir are the finest vehicles to discover and convey the Finger Lakes’ terroirs. Others embrace a host of grapes, and consider questions of method most important: native or laboratory yeast, machine or hand-harvesting, oak or steel. Base yourself at one of the region’s two city hubs, Watkins Glen or Ithaca, and set out to taste for yourself.

2. Walla Walla, Washington

Best for spectacular scenery, outstanding dining and world-class syrahs

Beneath the Blue Mountains in eastern Washington State, the Walla Walla Valley has become a remarkable story of rural regeneration, its longtime agricultural economy transformed and elevated by the arrival of grape wines. One of Washington’s most celebrated wine regions, Walla Walla is also the state’s best equipped for wine-country travel, with an enticing mix of tasting rooms, charming local restaurants, comfortable B&Bs and luxury hotels.

If you’re in the market for world-class syrah, the Rocks District of Milton-Freewater American Viticultural Area (AVA) has become one of the new hot spots of the region. While tasting through the region, be sure to allow some time to enjoy a walk around and a meal in the town of Walla Walla itself, where some of the state’s best chefs can be found.

Winery employees harvest gradpes at Clover Hill Vineyards and Winery, Breinigsville, Pennsylvania, USA
Many connoisseurs might be surprised by the growing wine scene in Pennsylvania © Ben Hasty / MediaNews Group / Reading Eagle via Getty Images

3. The Atlantic Upland, Pennsylvania

Best for a sense of history, weekend festivals and premium dry wines

History is everywhere you turn in Pennsylvania, home to centuries-old farms, Independence Hall, the weathered cabins at Valley Forge and the battlefield of Gettysburg. Winemaking, by contrast, is a newer tradition, legal in the state only since 1968; today, around 300 wineries operate statewide. Many benefit from the rolling terrain spilling off the Allegheny and Pocono Mountains that provides elevation and a drying breeze. Pennsylvania’s diverse topography also produces a variety of climates.

While you’ll find vinifera such as chardonnay, cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc, you’ll also come across samples of hybrids such as chambourcin and traminette, both made in a variety of styles and improving in quality by the year. Meanwhile, Native American grapes such as Niagara and Concord satisfy a local sweet tooth. That said, the greatest gains are being made in the production of premium dry wines, from red and white blends to experimentation with newcomers such as grüner veltliner, albariño, zweigelt and blaufränkisch.

4. Willamette Valley, Oregon

Best for Burgundian expats, Portland hipsters and sublime pinot noirs

Oregon’s foremost wine region, the Willamette Valley is renowned as one of the best places in the world to grow pinot noir. The numerous Burgundian expats who have enthusiastically established wineries here can attest to this: the delicate, elegant reds they produce bear more than a passing resemblance to the wines of their homeland. White-wine lovers can rest assured too, since pinot gris and chardonnay also perform well here, with aromatic whites from riesling and gewürztraminer getting better with every vintage.

The valley’s 930 wineries are just south of appealing Portland, an ideal staging post for visits to the region. Eccentricity abounds here, yes – but so does a dazzling array of great restaurants and places to drink. An abundance of organic produce, artisanal coffee, craft beer and street food are evidence of a foodie culture in which wine plays a leading role.

A couple sits in the shade enjoying wine at La Belle Vie winery, Palisade, Colorado, USA
The high-altitude wineries in Colorado’s Grand Valley are perfect for romance © Helen H. Richardson / The Denver Post via Getty Images

5. Grand Valley, Colorado

Best for mountain vistas, unique terroirs and eager hospitality

With some of the highest-elevation vineyards in the world, Colorado wineries offer soul-stirring vistas of mountains and the Colorado River, plus a refreshing twist on traditional wine styles. The state is home to an eclectic community of grape-growers and winemakers – a passionate, curious bunch who produce iconoclastic wine styles brimming with personality that comes from alkaline soils and thin mountain air.

This unique terroir rewards patience and perseverance, and Colorado’s winemakers have both in spades. On a visit, you’ll be greeted with generous hospitality and an infectious enthusiasm for what’s possible in a place that remains a well-kept secret in the wine world. The Grand Valley AVA is home to vineyards that sit at 4500ft, soaking up the sunshine that radiates off the valley’s chalky Book Cliffs, and providing surprisingly successful conditions for the Bordeaux, Rhône and Italian varieties that thrive here.

6. Sonoma Valley, California

Best for a variety of microclimates, outstanding restaurants and bold, exciting blends

With its diverse patchwork of microclimates and terroirs, the Sonoma Valley is where many of California’s most skilled and forward-thinking winemakers turn out star pinot noirs and chardonnays. While today’s Sonoma is certainly at the cutting edge of the state’s wine scene – thankfully, its wineries largely escaped the ravages of the 2020 Glass Fire – it’s also where California’s first commercial winery was established back in the 1850s. This long history is evidenced in many gnarled old vineyards, some of which are over a century old.

In this part of Northern California – where the climate ranges from baking hot inland to downright cold out on the wet and windy coast – wine and food are embedded in the culture, something evident in the first-rate tasting rooms and restaurants in Healdsburg, the ideal place to base yourself here.

A farmer rides a tractor in fields, with a wall of fog atop of the Santa Ynez Mountain in the distance, Solvang, California, USA
Proximity to the Pacific Ocean makes for frequent fog in the Santa Ynez Valley – and the longest growing season on the west coast © George Rose / Getty Images

7. Santa Ynez Valley, California

Best for gorgeous road trips, endless sunshine and (naturally) pinot noirs.

This beautiful trail, stretching west of glamorous Santa Barbara, is the west coast’s only well-established winegrowing region fully exposed to the fogs and cool weather of the Pacific. Sunny days with relatively low temperatures make for the longest growing season in California – and produce some of the state’s best pinot noirs (gulped memorably by Miles and Jack in the 2004 film Sideways).

Other varietals thrive here, too. Vineyards planted closest to the ocean tend to offer lighter-bodied wines, while the warmer temperatures found inland create bolder, more full-bodied reds and whites. Planning tip: given the range of temperatures and elevations, bring a few layers when you set out.

Discover the best things to do on Florida’s Emerald Coast

Florida’s Emerald Coast, stretching 100 miles along the Panhandle, comprises a few of the Sunshine State’s best-kept secrets. Distinctly separate from Orlando’s theme parks or Miami’s thumping nightlife, this is where quiet stretches of sandy beaches line calm, turquoise waters; hidden state parks shelter shorebirds that are counted by the flock; and where local fishers gather over a few cold beers to talk of the one (or several) that got away.

Dubbed the ‘Emerald Coast’ by a local junior high school student in 1983 (he won $50 for his efforts), the thin stretch of coastline along the Florida Panhandle between Pensacola and Panama City has long been featured on the itineraries of motoring families and spring breakers. 

Home to many of Florida’s best beaches, choosing the best time to visit the Emerald Coast depends on your preferences for weather, crowds and activities. Spring breakers flock to the coasts of Destin and Panama City Beach in March and April, while summer tourism reaches its peak from June through August. The crowds begin to thin at the height of hurricane season (from the end of August until November) as the weather becomes more temperamental. With an ideal blend of good weather, fewer crowds and plenty of outdoor activities and festivals to enjoy, savvy travelers find May to be an ideal time to visit. 

Most visitors have mostly stuck to the main sights off Florida State Road 30A, the region’s main drag. Here, we shed some light on the top nine things to do on the Emerald Coast.

No doubt the beaches are beautiful, but the Emerald Coast has more than surf and sand to offer © kimberford / Getty Images
No doubt the beaches are beautiful, but the Emerald Coast has more than surf and sand to offer © kimberford / Getty Images

1. Escape to secret beaches

Florida’s breezy Gulf Coast beaches are some of the quickest ways to fend off sweltering weather and take a few deep gulps of fresh, salty air. Popular beaches are plentiful near main resort areas like Panama City Beach and Destin, but the area still has a few hidden treasures worth seeking out.

Not far from Panama City Beach, Shell Island is a favorite among locals and a few in-the-know visitors for outdoor activities like swimming and snorkeling. An uninhabited island separating St Andrews Bay from the gulf, this pristine stretch of sand features none of the usual amenities – no concessions, restrooms, picnic tables or trash cans (remember to pack out what you bring in). Wander along sugar-sand beaches and through mangroves where the only other visitor might be a nesting shorebird. Bring a pair of binoculars to spot bottlenose dolphins, which are frequently seen off the coast of this slice of paradise.

A bit further afield, Grayton Beach State Park exemplifies the region’s precious moniker, providing secluded beaches with azure waters, as well as biking and hiking trails and two rare coastal dune lakes that are made for exploring via kayak. Plus, thirty onsite cabins make for the perfect quiet getaway.

A keen eye (or a set of binoculars) might help you catch a glimpse of dolphins playing off the coast © mjf795 / Getty Images
A keen eye (or a set of binoculars) might help you catch a glimpse of dolphins playing off the coast © mjf795 / Getty Images

2. Explore under-visited state parks

Far away from Florida’s theme parks, the Emerald Coast offers a more feral alternative to the manicured entertainment found in the center of the state. Archaeological evidence suggests the area around Topsail Hill Preserve State Park was once used by Native Americans for hunting and fishing, and little has changed since. The park still features a stunning array of ecosystems, including cypress domes, marshes, pine flatwoods, scrub and wet prairies.

Just north of the pastel-colored planned community of Seaside, Eden Gardens State Park provides a glimpse of Florida as it was in the 19th century. Set on 163 acres of historic land, the park’s central focus is the restored Wesley House, a two-story mansion encircled by columned verandas. Elsewhere in the Spanish moss–shaded park there are ornamental gardens, a few hiking trails and boat access to the nearby Tucker Bayou.

Historic Wesley House is the centerpiece of Eden Gardens State Park © Universal Images Group / Getty Images
Historic Wesley House is the centerpiece of Eden Gardens State Park © Universal Images Group / Getty Images

3. Wind down at local haunts and hangouts

Once the sun sets or a thunderstorm roars overhead, head indoors to a warm and friendly spot for a bite to eat. With a squad of affable bartenders and budget-friendly food and drinks, Destin’s Red Door Saloon is the stay-until-last-call hangout where locals can be found after hours. Pizzas and bratwursts are available to soak up the booze.

Straying from Front Beach Rd, Panama City Beach’s main commercialized artery, you’ll find local favorites like FINNS Island Style Grub on Thomas Dr. The street food shack is the perfect spot to pick up a coffee on the way to the beach or a light lunch. For an upscale bite a bit further inland, Hunt & Gather Raw Bar & Pub offers a sophisticated, yet approachable take on coastal Floridian cuisine with a cozy atmosphere ideal for a date or winding down after a day on the strand.

Don’t let the glowing lights on Front Beach Rd draw you into a tourist trap as there’s plenty of local establishments to visit © RobHainer/ Getty Images
Don’t let the glowing lights on Front Beach Rd draw you into a tourist trap as there’s plenty of local establishments to visit © RobHainer/ Getty Images

4. Dive into undersea adventures

With twenty diving sites along the Florida Panhandle Shipwreck Trail, this area of the Gulf of Mexico has been dubbed the ‘Wreck Capital of the South.’ Diving the Emerald Coast is a sure way to explore something secret to most. Fortunately, with several dive charters along the coast, exploring this area has never been easier.

Panama City’s newest wreck dive, the Red Sea, was a 125ft tugboat that was intentionally sunk in 2009. Now she sits just 40ft below the surface, and several species of marine life have already taken up residence. The Emerald Coast also features several submerged bridge spans, including sections of the Hathaway Bridge, which was originally built in 1929 and connected Panama City to Panama City Beach, but is now home to angel fish, grouper and the occasional barracuda.

For landlubbers who still want to get a glimpse of life several fathoms underwater, head to Man in the Sea Museum, which showcases the variety of gear and undersea habitats used to explore the mysteries of the ocean.

The old bones of shipwrecks off the Panama City Beach coast have attracted new undersea tenants © Michael Wood / Stocktrek Images/ Getty Images
The old bones of shipwrecks off the Panama City Beach coast have attracted new undersea tenants © Michael Wood / Stocktrek Images/ Getty Images

5. Celebrate local history and culture at annual festivals

The Florida Panhandle’s identity is inextricably linked to the history and landscapes of the area, which is peppered with the stories of pirates, vagrants and artists who found refuge in the palmetto-lined coast. Annual events like the Billy Bowlegs Festival and the 30A Songwriters Festival celebrate the region’s storied past and creative spirit. 

The coves and bays of the Emerald Coast were the perfect hiding spots for pirates who plied the waters for unsuspecting merchant vessels. The Billy Bowlegs Festival, held in May at Fort Walton Beach, memorializes one such pirate, William Augustus Bowles, who operated a flotilla of marauders around the Florida Panhandle. Each year, pirate reenactors “invade” the city and hold siege for three days of peg-legged merriment, music, food and local arts and crafts.

In January, musicians and songwriters from around the world come to intimate venues just a guitar-pick’s throw away from idyllic beaches for the 30A Songwriters Festival. Bringing 125+ acts to the Emerald Coast, the festival is a chance for songwriters to share their tales and tunes in dozens of venues around South Walton including intimate spots as small as 75 seats and outdoor stages that can accommodate thousands of fans.

6. Hit the boardwalk for family-friendly fun

When you need a break from the sand and sun, head to Destin’s Harbor Boardwalk or the nearby Village of Baytowne Wharf for a day of family-friendly entertainment.

The Harbor is a hub for outdoor activities like parasailing, jet ski rentals, boat charters, sightseeing cruises and tours. You’ll also find dozens of shops and restaurants to peruse along the harbor. During the summer, you can catch fireworks displays on select nights with excellent views from the William T. Marler Bridge (aka Destin Bridge). The launch point is right across from Margaritaville, so it’s a great place for dinner and a show. Head upstairs to Landshark Landing for even better views, but be sure to get there early if you want to snag a good seat. 

In nearby Sandestin, the playground, adventure zone, carousel and arcade at Baytowne Wharf delight young visitors. Home to shopping, restaurants and a tranquil beachy atmosphere, the Village also hosts live entertainment and seasonal events throughout the year. Located about 30 mins east of Destin, Baytowne Wharf sees somewhat fewer crowds than the Harbor and is a great destination for families with younger kids. 

7. Don’t miss out on local seafood

From fresh grouper to steamed shrimp and fried baskets of coastal delights, the Emerald Coast is one of the best places to sample seafood straight from the Gulf. Tucked among the kitschy tourist stops, the hidden gems beloved by locals serve up spectacular seafood along with hometown hospitality. 

Home of the Destin Seafood Festival held in September, it’s no surprise that the city has plenty of excellent seafood restaurants. Dewey Destin’s is a must-visit with multiple locations to choose from. Residents tend to prefer the Harbourside spot for its laid-back atmosphere. Choose your fish (snapper and grouper are always great choices) as a meal or a sandwich fried, grilled, blackened or bronzed. 

In nearby Santa Rosa Beach, Goatfeathers is a local favorite for steamed shrimp and seafood platters while Stinky’s Fish Camp is a lively destination for oysters – their grilled oysters are some of the best!

8. Hike or bike the coastal countryside

Beyond the beautiful beaches and towering hotels of Destin or Panama City Beach, you’ll find charming seaside towns and serene natural landscapes waiting to be explored along Florida’s 30A. In Henderson Beach State Park, just east of Destin, visitors can splash in the surf, then wander among the dunes, observing the plants and wildlife that make up the delicate ecosystems along the .75 mile nature trail. 

One of the best ways to experience the charm along the 30A is by bike. The 18.6 mile Timpoochee Trail takes cyclists past coastal landmarks along the way. Stretching between Dune Allen and Inlet Beach, the mostly flat, paved trail winds past rare dune lakes, filming locations of The Truman Show in the town of Seaside, the shimmering white buildings of Alys and plenty of neighborhood shops and restaurants. 

9. Experience authentic Old Florida

It’s in places like Apalachicola that you will discover the true spirit of Old Florida. Beyond the glossy theme parks and manicured beaches, you’ll find the nostalgic reminders of simpler times: trees draped with Spanish moss, faded pastel beach houses, roadside fruit stands or a dockside shack with the best seafood in town. 

Known as “Oystertown” for its namesake specialty, Apalachicola’s cultural and economic connection to the sea makes it the perfect place for fishing and boating adventures. The tranquil waters of the Apalachicola River and nearby waterways welcome beginner kayakers and paddlers. Remote parks surround the area and preserves, like St George Island State Park and the St Vincent National Wildlife Refuge, where visitors can bask in the pristine waters and undeveloped beaches. 

Although oyster harvesting has been paused until the end of 2025 due to environmental conditions and over-harvesting, Apalachicola is still a great place to enjoy fresh seafood and Florida staples. Hole In The Wall and Owl Café are favorites for local seafood paired with a cold pint and a relaxing atmosphere.

Mokoro and more: a safari like no other in the Okavango Delta

Botswana’s mighty Okavango Delta, which expands annually up to a size of almost 20,000 sq km, is one of Africa’s greatest and most pristine wildernesses. To take in its beauty, and all the iconic wildlife that call it home, there are six enthralling activities available, but none so entrancing as a trip in a traditional mokoro (narrow dugout canoe).

A poler stands at the back of a mokoro (dugout canoe) with his pole raised vertically to the sky. His outline is crisp against a pinkish blue sky at sunset. To his left are a bed of reeds at the edge of the channel. Everything is reflected in the still water of the delta © Matt Phillips / Lonely Planet
Gliding peacefully through the delta in a mokoro is the quintessential Okavango experience © Matt Phillips / Lonely Planet

The ultimate Okovango activity: the mokoro

There is no experience more connected to Botswana’s Okavango Delta than a journey through its reed-lined channels in a mokoro. Propelled with poles by expert locals, these traditionally-styled craft (now fashioned from fibreglass instead of wood for environmental purposes) glide you through the wilds with your eyes just above water level. From this reclined vantage point, the scale of everything becomes more grand – trees tower upwards into the blue African sky, reeds arch overhead and animal encounters feel all the more dramatic. The polers, who stand at the back behind the two passengers, use their wider view to watch for animals large and small. While you can get up close and personal with the likes of Africa’s smallest frog, your guide will ensure that a safe distance is kept between you and larger species such as hippos. That said, being told that an elephant is about to cross your path 100m ahead is still transfixing. With no engine noise, and just the occasional birdsong, the sound of each watery footstep radiates to you as if it was just a few feet away. And then, when you think it can’t get any more exciting, the wet, glistening body appears before you, tusks, trunk and all. Even with large animal sightings, the biggest joy of a mokoro trip is simply taking in the delta’s surreal surroundings in the most peaceful way possible.

A tiny white frog, no longer than 2cm, clings to a vertical reed in the Okavango Delta. It's white body stands out against the green reed and bright African sky © Matt Phillips / Lonely Planet
On a mokoro trip through the Okavango Delta, it’s typically the small-scale sightings that are the most sublime © Matt Phillips / Lonely Planet

Making a mokoro trip (and five other remarkable safari activities) happen

Most lodges in the delta organise mokoro trips, though some land-based camps on larger islands do not. The lodge-based trips tend to be late afternoon affairs, ending with sundowner drinks at a suitably scenic location, either in the mokoro itself or on one of the islands. These trips are almost always included in the accommodation fee.

It’s also possible to organise independent mokoro trips – without the huge lodge bill – from the safari hub town of Maun. There, the Okavango Kopano Mokoro Community Trust act as an umbrella association for all polers, with whom you can organise mokoro trips into the Eastern Okavango. These can be as short as a day (including a two to three-hour return drive in a 4WD to the point of embarkation), or last as long as several days with camping done on the islands (you’ll need to organise your own tent, cooking equipment and other kit). Most trips also involve some nature walks in the delta, where wildlife can also be seen. Overnight trips can be catered or self-catered, depending on your budget.

The best time to venture out in a mokoro is July to October, when water levels are high and the skies are almost permanently blue. Yes, in a quirk of the natural world, the delta is at its wettest during the height of its dry weather season. This is due to the floodwaters originating not from Botswana, but rather from the highlands in Angola more than a thousand kilometres away (the water then takes several months to arrive).

A lone red lechwe walks acoss a tiny bit of exposed grass above the water, with a safari boat in the distance © Janelle Lugge / Getty Images
Boat safaris can take visitors further afield than mokoro trips, thus raising the possibility of wildlife encounters © Janelle Lugge / Getty Images

Boat safaris: speed and distance equals unrivaled wildlife

Although a little less serene than mekoro (plural for mokoro), power boats offer you the chance to cover more distance, thus enabling you to delve further into the Okavango. This also increases the chances of viewing more wildlife, both in the water and on the islands themselves. Much like on mokoro trips, these power boat adventures tend to include the option for short walking safaris along the way.

Most water-based lodges in the delta include this activity on their menu of all-inclusive options, with some camps even using these boats to ferry you between their airstrip (your arrival and departure point) and camp. At the heart of the delta, within the Moremi Game Reserve, there are a few boat stations with jetties from where standalone boat safaris depart. Prices start at P650 (US$70) per hour for an eight-seat boat.

An open-sided 4WD vehicle heads through deep water © Matt Phillips / Lonely Planet
Driving into the depths of the Okavango’s waters is all part of the adventure (your feet may get wet) © Matt Phillips / Lonely Planet

Wildlife drives: the classic safari dream

Climbing up into an open-sided 4WD and trundling across grassy plains in pursuit of iconic African wildlife is a safari dream for many. And drives in the Okavango do not disappoint. With the recent re-introduction of rhino, it’s now possible to view all of the Big Five (leopard, lion, elephant, buffalo, rhino). No less interesting are packs of hunting wild dogs (Moremi Game Reserve is home to almost a third of the world’s population), pods of hippos bobbing and yawing, and cackles of whooping hyenas. Antelope numbers are healthy, including the water-adapted red lechwe. Last but not least, there is a phenomenal variety of birdlife that fills the air. And in this watery world, you’ll also have the exciting novelty of fording stream after stream in true adventurous style.

Land-based lodges on larger islands, such as Chief’s Island, include extensive wildlife drives year round in their packages, while water based camps only do so in the off season (November to May) when water levels have dropped significantly. If you are self-driving with a 4WD, you can explore areas of the Moremi Game Reserve on your own wildlife drive during dry season (July to October). The reserve’s campsites must be booked months in advance.

Five fresh hyena footprints perfectly preserved in wet sand © Matt Phillips / Lonely Planet
Hyena tracks in the sand are a little more dramatic when observing them on foot © Matt Phillips / Lonely Planet

Walking safaris: to follow in the footsteps of greatness

Standing on the same earth as the very creatures you are observing is as enlightening as it is exciting, and in the delta there is much to observe. Following your guide in single file, you will get the chance to learn about the intricacies of the environment, and about many of the smaller creatures that are often overlooked when on wildlife drives. Although not as much ground as covered on foot as is done in 4WDs, you still stand a chance of seeing elephants, antelopes and other wildlife.

Guided walking safaris are not permitted in national parks and reserves, but they are offered by lodges within the private conservancies that make up the majority of the Okavango Delta’s footprint. Short walks tend to be included with mokoro trips organised out of Maun.

Horseback safaris: become one of the herd

If you’re no stranger to riding horses, then you have the option of booking your safari with an operator that focuses on horseback safaris. This old-school form of transport allows closer interaction with various wildlife in general, as you are viewed as just another harmless animal on the scene – as opposed to a more obtrusive attendee in a powered vehicle.

Most of the horseback operators run trips year round, with four to six hours per day spent in the saddle.

Four elephants, looking more like ants, wade through the rich green flooded grasses, with the parched islands of the delta in the background © Matt Phillips / Lonely Planet
The scale of the delta only becomes apparent from the air. Spot the herd of elephants? © Matt Phillips / Lonely Planet

Scenic flights: take to the skies for a bird’s eye view

From ground level the Okavango Delta is astoundingly beautiful and totally immersive, but from the air you start to understand the greater picture. And what a picture it is: reed channels weave patterns between temporary and permanent islands, illustrating the flow of floodwaters; bleached pans reveal former waterholes, with animal trails migrating outward like rays from the sun; and the relationships between various species and their preferred habitats are laid bare. Looking down to elephants bathing in streams to beat the heat of the day, or seeing red lechwe seeking safety from big cats in the shallows is remarkable. At times you feel like you’re actually in a wildlife documentary.

A herd of red lechwe antelope bound across the flooded grasslands of the delta © Radu Zaciu / Getty Images / Moment RF
A wildlife documentary turned to life: flying over a herd of leaping red lechwe © Radu Zaciu / Getty Images / Moment RF

Scenic flights by plane are offered by several operators such as Wilderness Air, Mack Air and Major Blue Air, while helicopter flights are run by Helicopter Horizons – both alternatives are possible to book from Maun, though some camps can also arrange them for you. If you’ve chosen a fly-in lodge, you will get a taste of this activity en route to camp. Some camps, such as Vumbura Plains Camp also offer hot-air balloon flights over the delta.

Matt Phillips travelled to Botswana with support from Botswana Tourism. Lonely Planet contributors do not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage.

Seven reasons to visit Milan

Before Expo 2015 Milan had long been considered the forgotten sibling to more resplendent Venice, Florence and Rome. While they stole the limelight with their artistic heritage and haunting ruins, Milan was considered ‘grey’ and even worse ‘industrial’. Now with a changing urban landscape that includes shiny skyscrapers and lush green spaces, the tide is turning for this modern, elegant city.

A new urban landscape of water and glass in Gae Aulenti square
Milan is a city flourishing with new urban landscapes © Danyskar / Lonely Planet

Duomo’s historic beauty

There’s no missing this pristine vision in pink-veined marble, dripping with statues, gargoyles and dazzling spires (135 to be exact). Not only is it Milan’s crowning glory that sits in the city’s physical and cultural heart – it also has a story to tell. The Duomo’s construction required thousands of workers, a new canal system to be built to transport the marble from the quarries of Candoglia, and took nearly six long centuries to build. In fact, to say in Milanese ‘longh cume la fabrica del domm’, which roughly means ‘as long as it took to build the Duomo’, refers to a task that never seems to end. If you’re interested in the history and legacy of this fascinating landmark, the Museo del Duomo has rooms of sculptures, stained glass and various materials connected with its construction.

The architectural makeover

This is a city that’s slowly embracing modernisation, so it’s not all about the iconic Duomo when it comes to standout architecture. Since 2011 the soaring UniCredit skyscraper (Italy’s tallest), designed by Argentinian star architect César Pelli, has been stealing some of the attention. And it hasn’t stopped there. Nearby Bosco Verticale, the ground-breaking residential high-rise overflowing with trees and greenery, has everyone talking about it as a model for future cities. The Darsena (Milan’s dock area) has also been reflooded and revamped; no longer muddy and wildly overgrown, it’s sporting a scenic pedestrian walkway, curated gardens and a covered market. The Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II has a new shine to it, with a much-needed clean up sponsored by fashion powerhouses Prada and Versace. Currently in progress, the ambitious CityLife project will bestow upon Milan three glittering skyscrapers and an enormous shopping district, along with the city’s second biggest park.

Modern art and onlookers at Fuorisalone design festival
Check out the hottest design trends at Fuorisalone design festival © Stephanie Ong / Lonely Planet

A cutting-edge design festival

The city has long been synonymous with design and Fuorisalone is Milan’s much lauded week-long design festival. While it occurs contemporaneously with the industry event Salone del Mobile, it’s an entirely different affair – and not only for die-hard design enthusiasts. Pop-ups, wildly creative temporary events, installations by big-name brands and unknown designers, as well as parties in secret locations, are just some of the appeal. In locations all over the city, it’s the time when Milan brings its creative and playful side to the fore.

Da Vinci’s infinite genius

The quintessential Renaissance man was born in Florence but spent 17 years in Milan, leaving his distinctive and indelible mark on the city – he even had a hand in modernising the canal system. You can admire various artworks, such as a fresco of entwined mulberry branches in the Sala delle Asse of Castello Sforzesco, but of course, what everyone wants to see is the dramatic Last Supper, still magnificent despite deterioration attributed to time and the medium. Just down the road, the vineyard given to him by his patron the Duke of Milan, Ludovico Sforza, has been painstakingly recreated and offers visitors a sneak peek into his private life. For those wanting to delve deeper into his genius, the Codex Atlanticus at Biblioteca Ambrosiana holds his precious sketches and scribblings, while both the Museo Nazionale Scienza e Tecnologia Leonardo da Vinci and the temporary Leonardo3 exhibition bring his brilliant models to life.

Stylish shoppers stroll past Milan's Fendi boutique
There’s no shortage of designer boutiques © Stephanie Ong / Lonely Planet

The fashion-forward immersion

Milan is one of the fashion capitals of the world, famed for its fashion weeks and well-heeled citizens, while its beating heart is the aptly named Quadrilatero d’Oro (the ‘Golden Rectangle’). Formed by Via Monte Napoleone, Via Alessandro Manzoni, Via della Spiga and Corso Venezia, it has a dizzyingly high concentration of haute couture, with flagship stores from Prada, Gucci, Fendi and more, posing prettily side by side. This is the posh side of town and the streets ooze refinement and charm, that is if you manage to see past the crowd of sophisticated shoppers and gawping tourists.

World-class cuisine (and not just Italian)

Italy’s most cosmopolitan city has an exciting food scene that goes far beyond classic Italian and Milanese cuisine. The culinary scene is brimming with creativity and experimentation, both in terms of food and atmospheric settings. Tokuyoshi is a perfect example of the former. Created by Yoji Tokuyoshi, ex sous chef of world-renowned Osteria Francescana, his restaurant is a gastronomic journey between Japan and Italy, which offers up such surprises as an aubergine panna cotta. Contraste, by young rising star chef Matias Perdomo, offers a transformative eating experience in an artistic setting decorated with blue ‘clouds’ and red silicon chandeliers. While Carlo e Camilla in Segheria, by elite chef Carlo Cracco, presents modern Italian cuisine in a stark renovated sawmill that makes you feel like you’re dining in the middle of a dramatic theatre set.

A bartender behind the bar at at Milan's Botanical Club cocktail bar
See what’s shaking at Milan’s Botanical Club cocktail bar © Botanical Club

A stellar (and underrated) cocktail scene

Not many people seem to know about Milan’s illustrious bar scene. Nottingham Forest is a world-famous mixology bar, which warrants a place on any international best bar list. Dario Comini is the mad genius behind its wild concoctions, which might just come in a bathtub or a skull. The Botanical Club is also blazing its way through the ranks. Italy’s first small-batch gin distillery not only offers up its excellent house brand and an extensive list of quality-grade gins, it creates sublime cocktails that often feature an unusual touch, such as Tonka beans or a rich lavender syrup.

Pocket Milan – Book

The best hikes in Bozeman for outdoor splendor

You could spend half a lifetime exploring the forests, lakes and granite peaks of the Gallatin, Madison and Bridger ranges around Bozeman, Montana. Luckily we’ve done the heavy footwork for you – you can experience the very best Montana has to offer on these spirit-restoring hikes.

Bozeman is geared firmly towards the great outdoors, and between June and October, you’ll find yourself sharing the trails with mountain bikers, fly fishers and horse packers, as well as eager trekkers. But with so much wilderness on offer in this stunning corner of Montana, solitude and beauty are only ever just a short hike away. Here’s our pick of the best hikes around Bozeman to get you started.

The M

Best easy detour from downtown

3 miles (4.8km) round trip, 90 mins, elevation gain 850ft (259m), easy to moderate

The short uphill walk to the Montana State University “M” etched into the suburban hills north of Bozeman is easily the most popular hike in town, and a classic choice if you are tight on time. Two dog-friendly trails lead up from the trailhead – the right-hand path is steep and direct, while the left-hand path follows gentler switchbacks and is around a mile longer. Combine the two for a satisfying loop.

Forty minutes of puffing will reward you with expansive views over Bozeman and the snow-capped Gallatin Mountains beyond. If this taster leaves you wanting more, trails continue up the Bridger ridgeline to 8914ft (2717m) Baldy Mountain, for a total return hike of 9.5 miles (15.3km). On the drive back to Bozeman, stop off at Map Brewing for patio views of the M over a pint of aptly named Steep Terrain Double IPA.

A local tip: If the parking lot is full (as it often is), head across the road to the larger Drinking Horse Trailhead, where you’ll often find space.

View of the Bridger Mountains near Bozeman
The Bridger Mountains rise dramatically outside Bozeman © Carol Polich / Lonely Planet

Sacagawea Peak

Best for exhilarating ridgeline views

4.5 miles (7.2km) round trip, 3 hours, elevation gain 2100ft (640m), moderate to strenuous

Most hikers head south from Bozeman towards Yellowstone, so buck the trend by heading northeast into the less-visited Bridger range. A rough drive up Fairy Lake Rd (Forest Road #74) will drop you near the trailhead camping ground and a gorgeous turquoise lake (bookmark this for a deliciously frigid dip on your return).

The trail itself climbs from the get-go, rising through meadows of blazing paintbrush flowers and up lung-busting switchbacks to spit you out above the tree line onto a high saddle. Keep an eye open for Montana’s iconic (and somewhat comical) white-tufted mountain goats as you soak up the immense views.

The final section is a dramatic ridge walk onto the uplifted slab of 9654ft (2943m) Sacagawea Peak, the highest point in the Bridger range, named in honor of the Shoshone woman who guided Lewis and Clark through the valleys west of Bozeman.

Waterfall on Hyalite Trail near Bozeman, Montana
This is just one of 11 waterfalls you’ll pass on Hyalite Creek Trail © Ann Douglas Lott

Hyalite Creek Trail

Best for waterfalls and lakeshore views

11 miles (17.7km) round trip, 5 hours, elevation gain 2000ft (607m), moderate

To get a taste of the rugged wonders of the Gallatin Range south of Bozeman, drive past the paddleboarders at Hyalite Reservoir and make a beeline for the Hyalite Creek trailhead. Over 5 miles (8km) of gradual ascent, you’ll pass 11 – yes, 11! – waterfalls and gain great views of the glacially-carved, U-shaped valley. There’s also a decent chance of spotting elk, bears and even bighorn sheep. Arrive at dramatic Hyalite Lake in time for the perfect lakeshore picnic.

Fit hikers can continue for 2.5 miles (4km) up zigzagging switchbacks to bag 10,295ft (3138m) Hyalite Peak, scoring epic 360-degree views of Lone Mountain, the Paradise Valley and the Gallatin Crest Trail as it snakes towards Yellowstone National Park.

It’s a 20-mile (32km) drive back to Bozeman for dinner, but you could always pack some s’mores and stay in one of the three pine-scented Forestry Service campgrounds in Custer Gallatin National Forest (at Hood Creek, Langohr and Chisholm).

Lava Lake

Best Gallatin day hike

6 miles (9.7km) round trip, 3–4 hours, elevation gain 1600ft (488m), moderate

Leading south from Bozeman towards Yellowstone National Park, the beautiful Gallatin Canyon is lined with tempting side trails, the easiest and most popular of which leads to Lava Lake. The trail follows rushing Cascade Creek through pine forest and lush meadows, before popping out into a gorgeous mountain-fringed bowl, part of the protected Lee Metcalf Wilderness.

There’s exhilarating paddling and trout fishing at the lake and the valley also makes an easy overnight camping trip, though fires are banned within half a mile of the shoreline. The Lava Lake Trailhead is a 30-minute drive from Bozeman, southwest on Hwy 191, but take particular care where the trailhead road joins the fast-moving traffic on the highway.

View of Beehive Basin in Big Sky, Montana near Bozeman
Big sky views are guaranteed on the Beehive Basin trail © Ann Douglas Lott

Beehive Basin

Best for big sky views and microbrews

6.5 miles (10.5km) round trip, 3–4 hours, elevation gain 1500ft (457m), easy to moderate

Our favorite hike at Big Sky, 50 miles southwest of Bozeman, this half-day tramp climbs up through a stunning glacier-carved cirque to two alpine lakes that sublimely mirror the dramatic gneiss walls of the Spanish Peaks behind. En route, you’ll score views of pyramid-shaped Lone Mountain (itself the destination for an epic summer day hike) before winter cloaks its slopes with Montana’s best ski runs.

Pick up a gourmet picnic lunch en route to the trailhead at the Hungry Moose Deli in Big Sky, then round off a perfect Montana day with a post-hike microbrew at Big Sky’s Beehive Basin Brewery, named after this very hike.

Spanish Peaks

Best for sublime backcountry camping

15–25 miles (24–40km), 2–3 days, strenuous

If you’re looking for a classic multi-day backpacking trip, you can’t do better than the rugged and dramatic trip to Spanish Peaks, hidden deep in the Madison range southwest of Bozeman. A stunning group of mountain lakes gather at the base of 11,000ft (3350m) peaks, and the valleys come alive with mountain goats, deer, elk, bears, marmots and cute, rabbit-like pika.

There are dozens of gorgeous lakes to explore. The most popular route leads straight to the four Spanish Lakes, with a detour up a side valley to Mirror Lake. To expand the trek into a three-day/two-nighter, add on Jerome Rock Lakes and Lake Solitude. Alternatively, find your own unnamed tarn, set up camp for the night and watch the alpenglow climb the rock walls above.

The Spanish Peaks Trailhead is 30 miles (48km) from Bozeman, 8 miles (13km) up Spanish Creek Rd. En route, look for the grazing bison of the Flying D Ranch, owned by media mogul Ted Turner, founder of CNN.

Tips for hiking in Bozeman, Montana

  • Stop in at the Custer Gallatin National Forest office in western Bozeman before a hike to get the latest information on trail closures, fire conditions and bear sightings.

  • Montana is grizzly bear country, so carry a canister of bear spray, know how to use it and have it accessible at all times on any wilderness hike.

  • Don’t worry if you don’t have all the gear – Bozeman’s outdoor gear shops sell the essentials, including bear spray, bug spray, local topo maps and hiking guidebooks.

  • Four seasons come in one day in Montana’s mountains – always pack warm clothing, a dry base layer and a sun hat.

  • Don’t rely on cell coverage in the mountains; tell someone where you are going and when you plan to be back in case anything goes wrong.

10 romantic cities for couples to explore

Okay, okay, you caught us: Paris is on this list. How could it not be? It’s the Most Romantic City in the World. But the French capital isn’t the only fun city escape for couples on the planet.

There are plenty of lesser-known cities that can sweep your partner off their feet or whisper sweet nothings in your ear for nights you’ll never forget. So we asked Lonely Planet contributors for the best ones. They didn’t disappoint. Here are the 10 most fun city getaways for couples.

An older couple strolls through DC's Bloomingdale neighborhood
The lush, tree-lined sidewalks of DC’s Bloomingdale neighborhood © The Washington Post / Getty

1. Washington, DC, USA

Lonely Planet writer Barbara Noe Kennedy is a freelance writer focusing on destinations, art, culture, food and adventure around the world.

With all the soapboxing going on in the US capital, you might assume there’s not much time for romance. But Washington, DC is a genteel city of flowery parks, arched bridges, waterfront walks, and cozy restaurants, offering lovebirds plenty of options.

On sunny days, hop the dinghy to Hains Point for a waterside picnic. Watch the sunset from Arlington’s sky-high observation deck The View of DC, then sip wine at Artechouse and play with digital forms and color in a super-cool interactive room.

Where to splash the cash: Book dinner for two at the ultra-romantic Inn at Little Washington just outside the city.

Cheap date? Stroll hand-in-hand at dusk around the National Mall, as white marble monuments begin to glow in the dwindling light.

Tourists enjoy a live flamenco show, Plaza de Espana
Who can resist the flaming passion of a live flamenco show? © Alex Tihonovs / Shutterstock

2. Seville, Spain

Fiona Flores Watson met her media naranja in Seville. She lives there with him and their children and is still as enamored as ever by its charms.

Renowned as Spain’s most romantic city, Seville’s year-round sunshine means you can always be outside. The charming city is packed with pretty plazas, jasmine-scented patios and rooftop bars with killer views. Try the Hotel Doña Maria terrace bar at sunset, looking onto the Giralda tower.

In summer, nothing can beat a moonlit outdoor concert in the Royal Alcázar gardens for romance, while a fun daytime option is to hire a rowing boat on the canal at stunning Plaza de España with its tiled bridges. And who can resist the flaming passion of a live flamenco show?

Where to splash the cash: Hire an electric boat, complete with a bar, for your own private river trip.

Cheap date? Rise up above the rooftops at Las Setas for the best panoramic vistas in town.

a woman and a man a couple stand in a lamp shop in Marrakech the woman is pregnant both smiling taking in all the lights
Marrakech can be magical for couples © Sara Monika / Getty Images

3. Marrakesh, Morocco

Mandy Sinclair is a Marrakesh-based writer and owner of Tasting Marrakech food and cultural tours.

Magical light, hundreds of romantic riads and an unmatched ambiance make Marrakesh a perfect spot for amorous adventure. Snag a table for two in the nearby Agafay Desert and watch the sunset before tucking into a candlelit dinner. Wish upon a star before retreating to your tent for the night, waking up for the sunrise.

Glamping not your style? Choose a luxury riad and plan an early-morning wake-up call to watch the first rays illuminate the Anti Atlas Mountains during a hot-air balloon ride organized by Ciel d’Afrique.

Where to splash the cash: Try a couple’s hammam treatment at the Royal Mansour. This spot is owned by the king of Morocco, so you know you’ll be treated like royalty.

Cheap date? Pick out some fresh-cut flowers at the marché aux fleurs (flower market) before asking the florist to whip them up into a bouquet, which shouldn’t set you back more than Dh100 (USD $11).

A couple admire the view from Arthur's Seat, Edinburgh, Scotland
Treat your paramour to panoramic views in Edinburgh © Jaroslav Moravcik / Shutterstock

4. Edinburgh, Scotland

Lonely Planet writer James Smart spent 10 years in Edinburgh and is a regular visitor with his partner.

Edinburgh has great restaurants, peaceful gardens and snug pubs. Views stretch out to the Firth of Forth, across to Fife and down through atmospheric alleyways. Above it all, bang in the center of the city, looms a castle on a crag. Scotland’s strollable capital could hardly fail to set hearts fluttering.

Visitors can admire the views from windswept Arthur’s Seat or the Gothic Scott Monument, or promenade in Princes Street Gardens. Bramble hides beneath a dry cleaners and offers some of the city’s best cocktails and the Old Town is great for atmospheric pubs.

Where to splash the cash: The historic, candlelit Witchery offers Edinburgh’s classic high-end dining experience.

Cheap date? Stroll along the rather lovely Water of Leith, which takes in arty Stockbridge and dockside Leith – finish your walk with a lip-smacking fish supper from Pierinos. Else Edinburgh has plenty to do for free.

A couple embraces while watching cargo ships in Vancouver's Kitsilano Beach over Burrard Inlet
Vancouver’s Kitsilano Beach over Burrard Inlet is a great spot for gazing out at the busy harbor © Stephen Bridger / Shutterstock

5. Vancouver, Canada

Contributor John Lee is prolific, award-winning travel writer.

Vancouverites are at least as in love with the great outdoors as they are with each other. But gooey-eyed locals know exactly how to combine their passions. Hire a tandem from Spokes Bicycle Rentals to scope out picnic spots along the seawall or gaze lovingly at the sunset – and each other­­ – from Stanley Park’s Third Beach.

Rainy day? Commune with the resident lovebirds inside Bloedel Conservatory’s tropical dome or take a couples’ culinary class at Dirty Apron Cooking School. For a grand finale, hop a ferry to Bowen Island, hike up Mount Gardner and pop the question overlooking a heart-stopping ocean panorama.

Where to splash the cash: Let your love soar on a breathtaking scenic floatplane tour with Harbour Air.

Cheap date? Read romantic books together in the lofty new roof garden at downtown’s Vancouver Public Library – A Room with a View recommended.

Two couples with bikes admire the view of Houhai Lake, Beijing
On a budget? Ride bikes around Beijing with your special someone © XiXinXing / Shutterstock

6. Beijing, China

Tom O’Malley is a Lonely Planet writer based in Beijing.

In romance terms, seductive Shanghai twirls on the dance floor as Beijing props up the bar, munching sunflower seeds and checking its phone. But there are ways to woo in China’s prim and proper capital.

Local couples spice things up with a romantic repast of malatang, all your favorite things speared on sticks and daubed, salaciously, in spicy sesame goo. As dusk turns to dark, one serenades the other, KTV (karaoke) microphone in hand, before catching a Didi (China’s Uber) to an imperial beauty spot.

A stroll at Houhai Lake, perhaps, selfies on Yinding Bridge under the moon, and a big plastic beaker of sweet bubble tea – with one straw. That’s amore, Beijing-style.

Where to splash the cash: Book a suite at the Rosewood Hotel, with floor-to-ceiling views of the CCTV Tower and your own private butler to serve up the champers.

Cheap date? Ride bicycles through the Forbidden City forecourt after dark.

A couple embracing for a kiss under the Eiffel Tower, Paris, France
Fall under the romantic spell of Eiffel Tower © nullplus / Shutterstock

7. Paris, France

Catherine Le Nevez is a long-time Lonely Planet writer based in Paris.

A classic city break destination for couples, the romanticized French capital is even more captivating when viewed from the water. From its dock near the Eiffel Tower, celebrated chef Alain Ducasse’s ‘floating restaurant’ Ducasse sur Seine serves gourmet lunch and dinner menus at white-clothed tables while you glide through Paris’ heart. Canauxrama cruises along charming Canal St-Martin pass through double locks, swing bridges and an underground section.

In the city’s two sprawling forests, recreate a scene from an impressionist painting by hiring a rowboat on Lac Daumesnil in the eastern Bois de Vincennes, or Lac Inférieur in the western Bois de Boulogne.

Where to splash the cash: Take to the skies! Scenic Helipass helicopter flights over Paris land near the Château de Versailles.

Cheap date? Stroll the Seine’s riverbanks and islands including the Île aux Cygnes and the Île de la Cité’s aromatic flower market Marché aux Fleurs Reine Elizabeth II.

People at the public Saturday Salsa dancing event in Parque Kennedy in Miraflores district.
Lima can keep the passion alive no matter what age you are © olli0815 / Getty Images

8. Lima, Peru

Unexpectedly, Lonely Planet writer Agnes Rivera found love in Lima before falling in love with the city itself.

Romantic energy hovers over Lima like a sweetheart smog. Head to the fisherman’s dock in the Chorrillos district, where boatmen will row you and your other half across the sea for a small fee. Afterward, select fish fresh from the market and create your own version of Peru’s star plate: ceviche.

Further north, La Punta feels like a well-kept secret. A tranquil peninsula in Lima’s port town Callao, a romantic culture grew here when Italian immigrants arrived in the early 20th century, resulting in intimate and artisanal eateries.

Where to splash the cash: Book a table for two at seafood restaurant La Rosa Nautica, and enjoy sunset views of Lima’s skyline.

Cheap date: Wander through Parque El Olivar, an olive grove old enough to make any couple feel young again (some trees have stood here for 400 years).

Group of friends and couple walking and hanging out on the beach, waring shorts and tops
Lovebirds can enjoy culture and coastline in Perth © Kristina Lindberg/Getty Images

9. Perth, Australia

Writer Fleur Bainger fell head over heels for Western Australia more than a decade ago and continues to be wooed by its natural beauty and evolving personality.

With its sun-kissed climate and river-to-sea location, Perth is an outdoorsy city – but it’s also an underground music hotbed. Toe tappers, wow your date by entering a red telephone box and descending to the Jazz Cellar’s speakeasy or take a picnic to Fremantle Arts Centre on Sundays for free courtyard tunes (October to March).

Nature-lovers should hit secluded Bennion Beach for sunset-over-sea gazing with a bottle of local bubbles wedged in the sand or seek out the riverside Coombe Reserve in Mosman Park to amp up the romantic vibe.

Where to splash the cash: Take a private chopper from Hillarys Boat Harbour to Rottnest Island, combining aerial eye candy with an intimate picnic at local’s fave, Fay’s Bay.
Cheap date? Drive to the top of Kalamunda’s Zig Zag Scenic Drive for romantic views of twinkling city lights.

Man and woman sitting together about to kiss on rooftop terrace in Mexico City
Wine and dine and wind up at a romantic hotel in Mexico’s capital © Thomas Barwick / Getty Images

10. Mexico City, Mexico

Laura Bronner is a travel writer based in Mexico City.

Mexico City might not seem like the most romantic city at first glance, but peel back the layers and beneath its gritty exterior you’ll find passion around every corner. Start the evening with a cocktail at a little table in the back of the dimly lit Limantour in Roma Norte. Then enjoy a meal in the intimate dining room at Lorea; opt for the drinks pairing for a truly extravagant experience.

End your night at the city’s most romantic hotel, La Valise Hotel. Book yourself into the Terraza room and you can quite literally have your bed on the balcony beneath the stars. It doesn’t get more romantic than that.

Where to splash the cash: Sud 777’s candlelit rooms, Mexican wine list and unique set menu all ooze romance and sophistication.

Cheap date? Do as the local lovebirds do: bring a blanket to Chapultepec Park and canoodle in the sunshine.

How to have a romantic trip with kids in tow

Romance isn’t off limits once you have children – you just need to work harder to make it happen, and that goes for when you’re travelling too.

If a willing babysitter is a distant fantasy, or you just don’t fancy leaving the kids at home while you jet off to exotic climes, it’s still possible to sneak a little honeymoon vibe into your family trip. Here’s how.

Romantic trip with kids in tow – a father and daughter walk along the coastline in Japan.
Fall in love all over again in glorious surrounds © Ippei Naoi / Getty Images

Choose your destination wisely

This may be pointing out the obvious, but make sure you choose a destination that looks and feels romantic. Sure, the kids may still have tantrums, but strolling along a jaw-dropping white sand beach, or the streets of a beautifully dishevelled Mediterranean city will help take the edge off.

Yes, a Disney cruise or a cheerful child-focused resort might keep the kids out of your hands for longer, but you’ll have to spend your ‘alone time’ in the company of giant dancing cartoon characters, or worse: strangers’ children.

Space out

There’s no bigger passion killer than having to cram the entire family into one room. You know the drill: you wrestle the kids into bed, then spend the rest of the evening in semi-darkness, tiptoeing around in silence for fear of waking them up.

Renting an apartment is one solution – they get their own room and you get to have dinner at an adult-friendly hour. But if having to do your own washing up seems too much like domestic drudgery, splash out on a hotel suite or connecting rooms, or at least plump for a hotel room with a terrace so you can have some quiet time together while the kids are asleep.

Romantic trip with kids in tow – A grandmother and grandson play on the beach.
Good old grandma saves the day for tired parents © Leren Lu / Getty Images

Bring reinforcements

Remember the days when you could pop out of the house on a whim for a quick drink? When a trip to the beach didn’t involve buckets, spades and sandy meltdowns? No? Bring the grandparents along for the ride and you can remind yourself.

Your kids get to spend quality time with grandma and grandpa, and you get to spend quality time out on the town with your other half, so it’s a win all around. And unlike kids’ clubs and babysitters, there’s no need to book in advance, so impromptu walks on the beach are possible once again. If you’re very lucky, you may even get a lie-in.

Romantic trip with kids in tow – a couple dine overlooking Lake Como, Italy.
The kids’ club sports lessons will feel a million miles away when you’re enjoying a quiet lunch © Marco Bottigelli / Getty Images

Keep the kids entertained

The good old kids’ club is the easiest way to make time for romance on a family holiday. While your offspring are led on treasure hunts, you can relive your child-free days by sightseeing unencumbered, enjoying lunch by the sea, or, if you’re truly frazzled, taking a long, companionable nap.

If your children are too young for a kids’ club, there are often trained babysitters available, and some hotels offer baby listening services (less creepy than it sounds), enabling you to go out for a romantic dinner after putting the kids to bed.

Romantic trip with kids in tow – A woman looks out over the Santorini coastline from the breakfast table.
Make the most of nap times with your own private balcony © Grinvalds / Getty Images

Make nap time count

Having children who are young enough to nap is an added bonus when trying to ramp up the romantic atmosphere. Location is key here too. No one wants to be stuck in a hotel room watching a baby sleep, so book digs with some outside space, preferably with swoon-inducing surrounds.

Alternatively, you can lull them to sleep in the buggy while you take a walk, and when they’ve finally dozed off, sink a few cocktails and take in the view. If you’ve got a good sleeper, this can also work for an evening out.

Take a group holiday

Dealing with your own children on holiday can be challenging, so having others join the fray may seem ill-advised. But hire a villa with a group of friends and you can take it in turns to watch the little ones, allowing you some days and nights off to rekindle the old flame.

You could even take one of an ever-increasing number of group tours aimed at families, such as those organised by G Adventures or the Family Adventure Company. The kids will have an instant group of friends, and the other parents can help shoulder the childcare responsibilities, giving everyone a little couples’ time off.

Romantic trip with kids in tow – a family watch the sunset on Kubu Island, Botswana.
All ages can appreciate a beautiful sunset © Stefan Schuetz / Getty Images

Let the kids in on the fun

There’s no rule that says you can only enjoy a bit of romance when the kids aren’t around. Watch the sunset together as a family, or go to a beautiful spot for a beach picnic, with champagne for the grown-ups and sparkling soft drinks for the kids.

Remember that magical moments can be found in unexpected places. Just being together and watching your kids’ wide-eyed excitement as they discover new places and experiences can be pretty romantic in itself.

Romantic trip with kids in tow – two children watch a lion through binoculars in South Africa.
Safari lodge stays can be very romantic, even with kids in tow © Laurence Monneret / Getty Images

Where to go

Mauritius – With all the drop-dead gorgeous beaches you could wish for, this is prime romantic couples’ territory, yet many resorts are well set up for children, with kids’ clubs, babysitting and even the odd family massage session.

Glamping, Great Britain – Wear the kids out with wholesome countryside activities, then enjoy fire-lit evenings underneath the stars – without dampening the mood by having to put up your own tent.

Thailand – Few places beat Thailand for great value accommodation. Rent a bargainous romantic villa and luxuriate in the space between you and your offspring.

Italy – Hire a charming old farmhouse in the countryside. Once the kids are in bed you can gaze out over the hills and vineyards and stuff yourself silly with fine Italian produce.

South Africa – Visit one of the country’s many family-friendly wildlife lodges. While you’re off on a sunset game drive, the kids can enjoy the delights of a mini dung spotting safari.

Are you and your kids curious about the world? Come explore! Let’s start an adventure on the Lonely Planet Kids blog.

Hurrah! Same-sex marriage is finally legal in Switzerland: here’s how to get married there

Earlier this year, July 1 to be exact, Switzerland said “I do” to same-sex marriages. Whilst same-sex couples won the right to enter civil partnerships back in 2007, it was only after a referendum late last year whereby popular vote, more than 64% of voters approved the “Marriage for All” initiative.

Not only has the Swiss Civil Code to define marriage changed from “a union between bride and a groom” to “a union between two people”, but the parliamentary amendment now gives LGBTQ+ community members greater equality when it comes to marriage, adoption and parental rights.

Despite the country ranking as one of the most LGBTQ-friendly countries in the world, Switzerland seems to be playing catch up to other European countries like Germany, the United Kingdom and France where same-sexed marriages were approved in 2017, 2014 and 2013 respectively.

In celebration of this historical LGBTQ victory and to help you navigate your own wedding (whether same-sex or otherwise) here is everything you need to know for your special wedding day in beautiful Switzerland. Felicitations!

Why did it take Switzerland so long?

Campaigning for gay marriage in Switzerland started more than 40 years ago and when the Netherlands became the first country to approve same-sex marriage back in 2001, Switzerland didn’t step into action and be on par with the Dutch. Switzerland only really started making inroads and moved in the same direction as their neighbors Germany and France in 2013 after many rounds of voting which resulted in a law that saw no person was to be discriminated based on “race, ethnicity, religion or sexual orientation”. Since then, Switzerland has been moving towards marriage equality. A country constantly rated as one of the “safest” and “friendliest” destinations in the world is finally making amends to be more inclusive when it comes to ethnicities, racial status and LGBTQ standings.

Chris Sprenger, President of PRIDE Central Switzerland celebrates Switzerland’s move for equality, “I feel good that it has finally arrived in Switzerland. It took way too long but it is a step to equality,” says Chris. He adds, “Many people waited desperately to have the opportunity to marry their partner, but this (law) now offers security for the LGBTQ+ community which is most important.”

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A lesbian wedding reception
Much to celebrate: same-sex couples are now allowed to adopt children in Switzerland © VegterFoto / Stocksy

What other benefits does this bring?

The security that Chris refers to comes in the form of new benefits. With the approval of same-sex marriages, the LGBTQ community have even more things to celebrate. Under the new amended law, same-sex couples are now also allowed to adopt children and married lesbian couples are allowed to have children through sperm donation which was only legal for married heterosexual couples. The new law also extends the role of parent to the woman not carrying the child and furthermore, the law also allows same-sex couples who are currently already registered in a partnership to convert their union into a marriage.

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What countries recognize gay marriage in Switzerland?

Not all countries recognize gay marriages from other countries and there are only 19 out of 50 countries in Europe that do recognize same-sex marriages at the moment. Although Switzerland is not a part of the EU, they do have tight relationships with its neighbors which means its same-sex marriage policy is recognized in other countries that have the same law. Besides Switzerland, same-sex marriages are legally valid and performed in Austria, Belgium, Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Iceland, Ireland, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Portugal, Spain, Sweden, and the United Kingdom. Also, countries including Andorra, Croatia, Cyprus, the Czech Republic, Estonia, Greece, Hungary, Italy, Liechtenstein, Monaco, Montenegro, San Marino, and Slovenia recognize some form of same-sex civil union.

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A newlywed gay couple celebrates their nuptials, now a possibility in Switzerland
A newlywed gay couple celebrates their nuptials, now a possibility in Switzerland © Rawpixel.com / Shutterstock

What is the procedure in Switzerland?

For American citizens who wish to marry in Switzerland, you will need to fill out a document declaring a definitive statement that you meet all the requirements for marriage. The Swiss Civil Registrar of the town or city where you want to get married will help you with the necessary requirements and it is worth noting that only Swiss civil authorities may marry you, not consular officers. Some common details you should keep in mind include: having two adults as witnesses present, translating any documents before arriving (French, German or Italian depending on what part of Switzerland you are in) and providing your residence status. There is also a waiting period of up to five weeks which is ample time for you to start planning your wedding in Switzerland.

Switzerland visa requirements

What are the legal requirements?

There are a few things you have to meet in order to get married in Switzerland. The brides or grooms must be at least 18 years old and not be already married or in a registered partnership. If you are not Swiss but are marrying a Swiss resident, you will have to provide the appropriate documentation from your home country and in some cases apply for a visa. You will also need to notify the registry office of your address and intention and the office will send a marriage license permitting you and your partner to wed in their building. Unfortunately, you can not wed in Switzerland on a tourist visa but if you do have approval, it takes just three months to get married after authorization from the registrar.

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A lesbian couple shares an intimate moment on their wedding day
A lesbian couple shares an intimate moment on their wedding day © LumiNola / Getty

How much does it cost?

A civil ceremony ranges between $300 to $400 USD. A civil partnership fee is $200 USD. When it comes to your wedding, the average price ranges from $40,000 and $50,000 USD for an all-inclusive wedding (catering, DJ, wedding planner and photography) for 80 guests, however additional costs can come into play like having a wedding on the weekend, during high season or if you have expensive tastes and want to hire out an entire hotel for your special day! We are after all in Switzerland – everything comes at a hefty cost but it will be memorable if you know how to plan it!

The best time to go to Switzerland

The best destination for a winter wedding in Switzerland

Switzerland is the ideal place for a wedding with beauty found in all 26 cantons. Forget your wedding photographer photoshopping your wedding photo with fluffy clouds drifting over the Swiss Alps – no, in Switzerland everything is exactly as Mother Nature intended and contributes to a memorable wedding album. An ideal location would be in one of the country’s most historical hotels, The Kulm Hotel St. Moritz with the charming 19th-century hotel perched high up in the Swiss mountains overlooking the sparkly Lake St. Moritz. The hotel has its own on-site wedding planner and can help you from start to finish with catering, make-up and even floral arrangements curated by the hotel team. As far as activities go, could there be anything more romantic than going on a horse-drawn carriage with the snow-capped Swiss alps in the background?

Chillon Castle on the island Vaud, Switzerland
Chillon Castle on the island Vaud, Switzerland © Christian Dagnæs / 500px

Best castle for your wedding

If you have always dreamed of being royalty, why not consider hosting your wedding in a castle or palace in Switzerland? Chateau Gutsch perched high above Lake Lucerne is an elegant choice for weddings with the newly renovated Belle-Epoque chateau reopening earlier this year to host already a slew of weddings.

On the French-speaking side, a perennial favorite is the very same castle that inspired Disney’s The Little Mermaid, Chateau Chillon. Located on Lake Leman, the medieval island fortress sits just outside of resort town Montreux and can be booked for your wedding but be warned, the castle closes at midnight – how very Disney!

For self-professed foodies who love wine, the Le Grand Bellevue Palace in Gstaad is a much safer bet for people who like to party well into the night. The glamorously elegant hotel caters to big and small weddings with private function rooms in their award-winning wine cellar, alpine chalet and also 160 capacity banquet hall which is of course catered by Michelin-star chef Francesco de Bartolomeis.

How to get around in Switzerland

Best wedding destinations for a Mediterranean vibe

If you are not a winter person, don’t dismiss Switzerland just yet. With more than 1500 lakes in Switzerland, it is hard to forget you are in a landlocked country with all the pristinely clean rivers, lakes and reservoirs that make up this well-groomed country. The lakes are not only great destinations for sports during the summer but they are great destinations for weddings too. On the German-speaking side of Switzerland, Victoria Jungfrau Grand Hotel and Spa takes out all the hard work for your wedding with a planner on-site to meet your needs. Choose to have your wedding in a heritage-protected Salon Napoleon under Europe’s largest Murano chandelier or in a garden surrounded by hundreds of lanterns with the Jungfrau as your backdrop.

If you find yourself on the French-speaking side of Switzerland, nothing beats the gorgeous Beau-Rivage Palace, a historical hotel where the treaty of Lausanne was signed and where Charlie Chaplin and Coco Channel frequently visited. Whether you choose to have your wedding in their garden overlooking Lake Leman or in the historical banquet hall, the recently renovated Beau Rivage Palace remains a gem for special events with the 18th-century art-nouveau decor seemingly never going out of fashion.

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A young lesbian couple celebrates their marriage
A young lesbian couple celebrates their marriage © Hinterhaus Productions / Getty

Best honeymoon destinations

You can easily spend your honeymoon in a big city like Zurich or Geneva but given you just got married to your one true love, you surely want to be alone and what better way to do this than spending your honeymoon in the middle of nowhere: Andermatt. Once a booming resort for alpine skiing, the now lesser-known alpine region is relatively isolated (compared to St. Moritz and touristy Zermatt) and it feels like it is just you, your new groom/bride and the mountains. The Chedi Andermatt is a nice spot for your wedding banquet but this 5-star luxury hotel is even better as a honeymoon spot with the hotel relatively hidden in the mountains. There is no guilt if you choose not to leave your room, they are spacious, inspiring and soundproof.

For city dwellers, you can’t beat the coolest city hotel in the country, the Dolder Grand in Zurich. Perched high above the city, overlooking Lake Zurich, the hotel has an impressive art collection but an even better spa and wellness center to cure a hangover after celebrating your unity in Zurich.

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Best place for bachelor/bachelorette party

Wedding bliss aside, nothing is more important than the biggest party you will ever have in your lifetime: your bachelorette/bachelor party. What better way to wave adieu to your single life (finally!) than in Zurich’s largest LGBTQ-friendly city: Zurich. Julia Mueller, member and supporter of the LGBTQ Community in Zurich and volunteer at the Pink Apple Film Festival loves how LGBTQ-friendly her home city is and doesn’t recommend just LGBTQ bars for celebrations and parties. “Zurich is a very LGBTQ-friendly city so we don’t need to separate our bars (from non-Queer destinations). The new law encourages an even stronger and safer feeling for us and personally, I like Das Gleis and Daniel H when I go out with friends. Although Zurich is known for their LGBTQ activities, Chris encourages partying in other cantons outside of Zurich like Bern and Lucerne, “My favorite bar in Zurich is Cranberry’s and L’arbre is queer-friendly for a cozy place with good drinks. Many people say Zurich is the only place for LGBTQ+ fun but even in Central Switzerland, we have around 10-15 organizations who offer spontaneous gatherings, parties, sports and other things,” says Chris.

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Cailler chocolaterie, Switzerland
The perfectly arranged shelves of chocolate in Cailler chocolaterie, one of the oldest chocolate manufacturers in Switzerland © Carsten Reisinger / Shutterstock

Best souvenirs for your guests

Switzerland is a country made for souvenirs with wine and chocolate being the best items to take home to loved ones. Rather than giving keychains of the Eiffel tower to your guests, there are many great Swiss souvenirs to give your guests as a memory of your special day. A great parting gift for guests, boutique chocolateries can be found all over Switzerland with Max Chocolate in Lucerne, Auer Chocolate in Geneva and La Flor in Zurich coming highly recommended for their curated and tailor-made selections for special occasions.

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These 12 hikes will show you the astonishments of Patagonia

Crisscrossed by glacial rivers and streams, alternately covered in scrubland and ancient woodlands, and dotted with myriad ice-melt lakes whose surfaces range from pale blue to navy, Patagonia offers an extraordinary way to encounter nature at its rawest.

Covering a massive chunk of southern Chile and Argentina, the region is almost synonymous with adventure. Whether you’re looking to rough it on multi-day treks through pristine wilderness, hike from hut to hut in epic national parks, exert yourself on varied day treks before returning to the comfort of your boutique guesthouse, or just stretch your legs beneath the shade of Chile’s and Argentina’s oldest trees while road-tripping along Chile’s Carretera Austral, Patagonia has a great deal to offer.

A mother and son walking by the Las Cascadas waterfall, which plunges down a mossy rock face onto wet boulders below
These top treks through Patagonia cover the region’s extraordinary range of scenery and ecosystems. Alamy

Keep in mind that trekking in Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego is largely confined to the peak and shoulder seasons of November to late March. If you want to hike off the beaten track, make sure you’ve left word with someone about proposed route, take a tent sturdy enough to withstand the famous Patagonian wind (called La Escoba de Dios, or God’s Broom) and all the supplies you’ll need. During any hike, all-weather gear is a must (in Patagonia, it’s normal to experience four seasons in one day – or even one hour). Accommodations must be booked many weeks in advance for the December-to-February high season.

With those details out of the way, let’s get to the 12 best hikes in Patagonia.

1. Laguna de Los Tres, Parque Nacional Los Glaciares (Argentina)

Best for scenery and a sense of accomplishment

15.5 miles (25km) round trip, 8–10 hours, moderate

Only accessible on less windy days, this is the most scenic and challenging of all the day hikes around southern Argentina’s compact trekking capital of El Chaltén. The well-marked trail ascends through ñire (small southern beech) woodlands from the north end of El Chaltén’s main street, past turquoise Laguna Capri and across boggy terrain to Camapamento Poincenot, popular with climbers. A steep, exposed trail zigzags up the mountain side to the glacial lagoon, where you get excellent bonus views of Cerro Fitz Roy (11171ft/3405m), the mountain resembling a jagged tooth. Dip your feet in the water – but don’t keep them there, as you’ll quickly lose feeling.

Torres del Paine National Park; Shutterstock ID 1654546885; your: Brian Healy; gl: 65050; netsuite: Lonely Planet Online Editorial; full: Planning a hike on the W Trek
1654546885
Reserve well ahead to secure a place at a preferred campground or refugio within Torres del Paine National Park. Shutterstock

2. The W Trek, Torres del Paine National Park (Chile)

Best overnight option in Torres del Paine

46 miles (74km) one way, 3–5 days, moderate

The shorter of the two multi-day treks that Chile’s iconic Torres del Paine National Park is known for, this route is shaped like the letter that gives it its name. To start off, you’ll take a boat across Lake Pehoé, then hike through woodland along the banks of Lake Grey to the icy monolith of Glacier Grey before retracing your steps. You then pass along the shores of glacial Lake Nordenskjöld, and climb steeply up the French Valley for an up-close look at Los Cuernos, the park’s bell-shaped mountain range. A final stint through scrubland, across hills and up the Ascencio River valley brings you to the trident peaks of Las Torres.

You can either camp en route at designated campsites, go from refugio (bunk hut) to refugio, or even glamp along the way. Due to Torres del Paine’s immense popularity, all accommodations and camping spots have to be prebooked months in advance. The W is best hiked west to east if you’re camping, so that you’ll have used up most supplies before tackling the steep ascent to the granite towers.

3. Lagunas Altas Trail, Parque Nacional Patagonia (Chile)

Best for easy access

14.2 miles (23km) loop, 8 hours, moderate

Near the entrance to the park, the most easily accessible trail in Parque Nacional Patagonia is an invigorating leg-stretcher that’s stupendously scenic. Climbing a forested ridge from the Westwind Campsite near the visitors center, the trail passes several tiny glacial meltwater lakes across open terrain. You’ll find that your jaw drops open more than once during the hike at the all-encompassing views of the northern Patagonian ice field, Chacabuco Valley and the Jeinimeni Mountains en route.

4. Volcan Chaitén Crater Trail, Parque Nacional Pumalín Douglas R. Tompkins (Chile)

Best for an all-encompassing view

2.7 miles (4.4km) round trip, 5 hours, moderate

In 2008, the eponymous volcano in northern Patagonia staged a surprise eruption and buried half the town of Chaitén under mud and ash. This relatively steep 5-hour round-trip trek starts near Puente Los Gigos, off the Carretera Austral, north of the now-rebuilt town. Following the eruption path of the volcano, the trail gets progressively more barren the higher you get. Your reward at the top is the all-encompassing view of the still-smoking crater and the surrounding forest.

A woman in hiking gear admires the view of a snow-covered mountain range with several distinct jagged peaks
The view of Mt Fitz Roy in Argentine Patagonia never fails to dazzle. Pakawat Thongcharoen/Shutterstock

5. Laguna Torre, Parque Nacional Los Glaciares (Argentina)

Best for seeing icebergs and glaciers

13.6 miles (22km) roundtrip, 6–8 hours, moderate

Another excellent day hike from El Chaltén, this trail takes you from the south of town through the Fitz Roy river valley. Passing a small hydroelectric station, you’ll climb through lenga and ñire woods to reach the Mirador Laguna Torre, with views of glaciers beneath the Adela mountain range, Cerro Torre, Mt Fitz Roy and the granite “needles” popular with rock climbers. Crossing an alluvial plain bisected by the glacial Fitz Roy river, you’ll pass the partially sheltered De Agostini campsite before skirting the iceberg-filled Laguna Torre to reach Mirador Maestri, overlooking Glacier Grande.

Six trekkers in full hiking gear walk in a line on a glacier
A weather-dependent crossing of the John Gardner Pass leads to Glacier Grey ice field. D Joseph Meyer/Shutterstock

6. The Circuit, Torres del Paine National Park (Chile)

Best for a long-distance trek

68 miles (110km) loop, 6–10 days, moderate

If you have more time to spare, tackle the longest trek in Torres del Paine in a clockwise direction. Incorporating the W, this spectacular loop gives you unique views of the backs of Los Cuernos and Las Torres – the park’s two mountain ranges – from remote backcountry. As you climb partially forested hills en route from the Serón campsite to the Dickson campsite and refugio, you’ll enjoy views of Lake Paine and Lake Dickson along the way, and take boardwalks across boggy sections. This first half of the hike is where you’re most likely to come face to face with one of the park’s many mountain lions.

From Refugio Dickson, you’ll enter dense southern forest, with thickets of giant wild rhubarb and ferns and glimpses of waterfalls through the trees. The highest and most challenging part of the trek is the weather-dependent crossing of the John Gardner Pass (4002ft/1220m) between the Los Perros Campsite and Refugio Grey. Once you reach the top, the Glacier Grey ice field opens up below you like a vast, frozen river. As with the W, you can either camp all the way, or go from refugio to refugio.

A view of a lake surrounded by mountains, with green trees and ferns in the foreground
Expect lush greenery and towering alerce trees in Parque Nacional Pumalín. Getty Images

7. Los Alerces Trail, Parque Nacional Pumalín Douglas R. Tompkins (Chile)

Best for an easy hike

0.5 mile (700m) loop, 30 minutes, easy

Alerce trees are the giants of Patagonia. Growing up to 148ft (45m) in height and living for up to 3000 years, they were cut down to near extinction by colonists in the late 19th and early 20th centuries (their wood was used for southern Chile’s unique shingled roof tiles) – and now enjoy protected status. Off the Carretera Austral, some 7.7 miles (12.5km) south of the Caleta Gonzalo car-ferry landing, this wonderful interpretive trail passes through a particularly impressive grove of these millennia-old skyscrapers of the forest.

A hiker on a steep slope with snow on green vegetation. Sharply peaked, snow-covered mountains are in the distance. Dientes de Navarino Circuit, Isla Navarino, South Chile
A lone hiker takes on the remote Dientes de Navarino Circuit – one of the most remote hikes in Patagonia. Stuart Gray/Getty Images

8. Dientes de Navarino Circuit, Navarino Island (Chile)

Best for a demanding trek

33.2 mile (53.5km) loop, 4–5 days, difficult

On Chile’s southernmost permanently inhabited territory (across the Beagle Channel from Tierra del Fuego), this demanding trail loops around the jagged pinnacles of the Dientes de Navarino mountain range. Requiring wild camping and excellent navigation skills, it’s best done in a clockwise direction with at least one other companion. The trail cuts across bare stony plateaux, skirts glacial lakes, traverses boggy lowlands and crosses exposed mountain passes. Highlights include expansive views of the Beagle Channel from Cerro Bandera and Paso Virginia (near the beginning and end of the trek, respectively). Be sure to watch your footing on the steep, rapid descent from the latter pass.

9. Laguna de Los Témpanos, Parque Nacional Queulat (Chile)

Best for exploring Parque Nacional Queulat

1.2 miles (2km) return, 1 hour, easy

If you do just one hike in Parque Nacional Queulat (off Chile’s Carretera Austral in northern Patagonia), make it this one. From the main parking area, after crossing the hanging bridge high above the raging Ventisquero River, you may have to brave the perpetual rain. Expect to be slapped in the face with moisture-laden ferns as you make your way through dense forest and damp undergrowth along this straightforward trail to a splendid glacial lagoon.

It’s all well worth it. From the banks of the lagoon, you’ll get uninterrupted views of the Ventisquero Colgante – a hanging glacier across the lagoon, filled with car-sized chunks of calved ice. The frequently inclement weather, and the park’s remoteness, means you’re likely to have it all to yourself.

A hiker stops in a glen of trees next to a blue river in a forest at Lago del Desierto, Patagonia, Argentina
This transnational trail takes you past pristine Lago del Desierto, between Chile and Argentina. Carolin Kertscher/Getty Images

10. Lago del Desierto, Chile trail (Argentina/Chile)

Best for crossing an international border

12.4 miles (20km) one way, 6–8 hours, moderate

In recent years, this cross-border trail connecting tiny El Chaltén in southern Argentina to Chile’s equally tiny Villa O’Higgins has gained in popularity with adventurous hikers (and even cyclists). Best done from Argentina into Chile to avoid a relentless uphill slog, the trip starts with a boat ride across the pristine Lago del Desierto, some 23 miles (37km) north of El Chaltén; getting stamped out at the Argentine border post; then trekking through hilly, dense woodland until you reach the sign welcoming you to Chile, where the narrow trail becomes a broad, forest-fringed gravel road. It then winds its way down to Lago O’Higgins and the tiny border post of Candelario Mancilla. From here, you have to catch another ferry across Lake O’Higgins/San Martín. During high season, when ferries across both lakes are more frequent, you can time the hike so that it’s doable in a day; otherwise you may have to camp at one or both border posts.

11. Avilés Trail, Parque Nacional Patagonia (Chile)

Best for camping wild

29 miles (47km) one way, 3–4 days, difficult

Connecting the eponymous forest lake in the Reserva Nacional Lago Jeinimeni (accessed from Chile Chico) with the Casa Piedra campsite in the scenic Avilés Valley in Parque Nacional Patagonia further south, this is a serious, off-the-beaten-track endeavor that requires organizing transfers to and from the trailheads in advance and ample wilderness-trekking experience. While the terrain is only moderately demanding, the trail through the valley is rudimentary and minimally marked, there are multiple river crossings, and you have to camp wild, bringing all your supplies with you. It’s worth the effort.

12. Cabo Froward (Chile)

Best for utter remoteness

45.3 miles (73km) round trip, 4 days, difficult

The goal of this adventurous hike is to reach Cape Froward – the southernmost mainland point on the continent of South America. Starting at the trailhead some 56 miles (90km) south of Punta Arenas, the trail mostly hugs the coast, meandering along wind-battered cliffs, traversing boggy undergrowth and passing the San Isidro lighthouse. Unless you’re an experienced wayfarer, it’s best to join a guided hike with Erratic Rock from Puerto Natales, as the trek involves fording narrow, deep rivers at low tide and camping wild. Be aware that the trail isn’t well-marked in places.