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A first-time guide to Puerto Vallarta

Nestled between the Sierra Madre mountains and the Pacific Ocean, Puerto Vallarta is a resort town known for its golden sand beaches, cobblestone center and lively nightlife. Its proximity to the mountains provides ample opportunities for outdoor enthusiasts to dive deep into the verdant jungle in search of adventures, while sunseekers will have a hard time deciding which of its many beaches to lie out on for the day. 

While Puerta Vallarta was established in the 19th century, it became famous in the 1960s thanks to the glamor of Hollywood, when it served as a filming location for the 1964 film The Night of the Iguana, starring Richard Burton and Ava Gardner. Burton and his famous wife, Elizabeth Taylor, fell in love with the area, buying a house on the hill in “Gringo Gulch” and spending long spells in town.

Since then, the beach town has expanded significantly, with its hotel and nightlife offerings encompassing luxury resorts in Marina Vallarta and boutique hotels and lively bars in the Zona Romántica.

Whether you’re here for the beach clubs or want to find a more secluded enclave for snorkeling and spotting colorful sea life, there’s a beach in Puerto Vallarta sure to fulfill your heart’s desire. 

The tail of a humpback whale is visible among splashes of water and foam in the ocean, with mountains on the shore visible in the background
Between December and March, you’ll be able to spot humpback whales in the waters of the Bay of Banderas. Gerard Soury/Gety Images

When should I go to Puerto Vallarta?

As with most beach towns in Mexico, Puerto Vallarta is a destination you can visit year-round. The high season is from October to April, when temperatures in the northern hemisphere begin to drop, and Canadians and Americans start seeking an escape from the cold.

The hurricane season in Puerto Vallarta runs from early June to late November, with its peak from August to October. During this time, while you may encounter rain when tropical storms form, Puerto Vallarta’s location within the huge Bay of Banderas helps protect it from storms directly making landfall.

If you’re keen to catch a glimpse of a humpback whale flashing its tail in the sunshine, the best months to spot these majestic creatures are from December to March, when they make their way to Banderas Bay to breed and raise their young.

Overall, I’d say the best time to go to Puerto Vallarta is from April to June, when the heat and humidity haven’t reached their most sweltering levels, and the summer crowds haven’t yet descended to this stretch of golden coastline. 

How much time should I spend in Puerto Vallarta?

Three nights will allow you to enjoy some time relaxing at Playa de los Muertos or Playa Camarones, partying at a beach club and exploring some of the bars and restaurants in the Zona Romántica.

Yet if you can spare a whole week, you’ll be able to get off the beaten path and explore more secluded beaches like Yelapa and go inland to sip tequila and other agave-based spirits in San Sebastián del Oeste, a mining town–turned–”pueblo mágico” with a Mexican-Western feel to it.

Is it easy to get in and around Puerto Vallarta?

You can fly into Puerto Vallarta’s international airport from most major cities in North America, plus a couple in Europe. From there, you can take a taxi to your hotel or cross the street to order an Uber (Ubers can drop you off at the airport but not pick you up from there).

Once in Puerto Vallarta, you can find taxis easily or order an Uber to take you everywhere. Always ask for (and agree on) a price before getting in a taxi to avoid unwanted surprises, and make sure you have cash on you as they don’t take credit cards.

Top things to do in Puerto Vallarta

These are the activities you shouldn’t miss if you’re staying in Puerto Vallarta for a few nights.

People walk to the end of a a pier built in a modern architectural style that juts into the blue waters of a warm bay
At the southern end of Puerto Vallarta’s famous waterfront Malécon, a dramatic pier juts out into the beautiful Bay of Banderas. Shutterstock

Stroll down the Malecón

The boardwalk that stretches for about a mile along the coast and meets Playa de los Muertos and its famous pier on the southern end is called the Malecón.

As the city’s most prominent tourist attraction, it gets busy – but it’s a great spot to absorb Puerto Vallarta’s lively energy (for free!). Make your way there come sunset to enjoy the multihued pink-and-orange sky while inspecting the many sculptures scattered throughout the area. 

Lounge on the beach

If you’re staying at a beachfront hotel, chances are you won’t want to leave the comfort of the sand that’s right in front of you. Yet, with so many beaches in close proximity to each other, it’s worth getting further out to vary your sun intake a bit. 

Bordering the iconic Zona Romántica neighborhood, Playa de los Muertos is undoubtedly the best-known beach in town. North of the Malecón, you’ll find the much quieter Playa Camarones – but to truly get away from the crowds, you’d be wise to head to the southern beaches. 

While lined with condo buildings, Conchas Chinas is a small, picturesque enclave with shallow and sheltered pools made by rock formations. Further south, the emerald-green waters of Mismaloya are a great place to snorkel or try your hand at stand-up paddleboarding against a backdrop of the Sierra Madre mountains.

For even more privacy, head to Yelapa, a small beach town that you can only reach by boat from the pier at Boca de Tomatlán.

People walk at sunset on a cobblestone street in a city, with the lights of restaurants and businesses illuminating the scene
The Zona Romántica provides a lovely backdrop for a lively night out in Puerto Vallarta. Shutterstock

Enjoy the bar scene at Zona Romántica

If you’re ready for a night out, make your way to the Zona Romántica, a charming neighborhood known for its cobblestone streets and laid-back vibe. Here, you’ll find tasty street taco stands sitting alongside deluxe international restaurants.

With its thriving bar scene and welcoming LGBTQ+ clubs, this is the spot for an unforgettable evening.

Spot a humpback whale

Humpback whales make a yearly migration to warm Mexican waters to breed and feed their calves. In Puerto Vallarta, you can see them splashing around the waves from inflatable speed boats on three-hour whale-watching expeditions like those led by Vallarta Adventures. 

Plan your trip for peak whale-watching season, which runs from December to March.

Explore Río Cuale Island

Tucked in the middle of the Río Cuale, this lush island with shaded paths offers a peaceful escape from the busy streets of the city. You’ll find open-air cafes and restaurants to relax in while listening to the flow of the river, and an artisan market where you can pick up a gift or two.

Dive boats along the coast of Los Arcos, Puerto Vallarta, Mexico
Puerto Vallarta’s city beaches are terrific – yet seclusion lies just a boat ride away, such as the coast of Los Arcos. Getty Images

Go hiking in the verdant jungle

While most visitors plan their trip to Puerto Vallarta with the beach in mind, the city’s proximity to the Sierra Madre mountains provides plenty of hiking opportunities. 

Popular hiking spots include the trail to Playa Colomitos, a secluded beach only accessible by foot or boat, and the Mirador de La Cruz, where a short but steep climb rewards you with panoramic views of the city and the Bay of Banderas.

My favorite thing to do in Puerto Vallarta

As with so many other visitors, Puerto Vallarta’s famed golden beaches first lured me here. Yet, as I got to know the city, I was surprised at how much art and culture I discovered. Besides those mesmerizing statues along the Malecón, Puerto Vallarta also has its fair share of art galleries.

The best one of them all is OPC Oficina de Proyectos Culturales, which hosts exhibitions that foster dialogue between creators and the local community and organizes educational workshops and roundtable discussions, too.

How much money do I need for Puerto Vallarta?

As far as Mexican resort towns go, Puerto Vallarta is significantly more affordable than Cancún or Los Cabos, especially when it comes to hotel prices.

The area north of the city near the marina has the largest and most expensive hotels, namely the Marriott, the Westin and Casa Velas, as well as larger restaurants, including popular Mexican chains.

In Centro and the Zona Romántica, however, you can find options to suit all budgets, along with interesting, smaller restaurants with creative takes on Mexican food.

  • Hostel room: $439–843 MXN (US$21–42) per night

  • Basic room for two: $1857–3500 MXN (US$92–173) per night

  • Self-catering apartment (including Airbnb): $1150–3000 MXN (US$57–150) per night 

  • Average taxi ride: $83–145 MXN (US$4–7)

  • Coffee: $40–100 MXN (US$2–5)

  • Sandwich: $60 MXN (US$3)

  • Fish tacos: $245 MXN (US$12) for an order of two 

  • Dinner for two at a mid-range restaurant: $600–1200 MXN (US $30–60)

  • Beer/pint at the bar: $55 MXN (US$2.70)

Is Puerto Vallarta safe for travelers?

Puerto Vallarta is considered one of the safest places in Mexico. I’ve spent a significant amount of time there, traveling solo as a woman, and not once did I feel unsafe. As a touristy resort town, it doesn’t have many areas that are considered sketchy.

Still, I’d recommend exercising the usual precautions, like avoiding getting into a taxi while blind drunk or walking alone in unlit areas late at night.

Conchas chinas beach in puerto vallarta jalisco mexico at sunset
Puerto Vallarta is popular with Mexican vacationers as well as those from North America. Shutterstock

Is Puerto Vallarta very touristy?

Definitely – and that’s not a bad thing. Puerto Vallarta essentially exists as a beach playground for local and foreign visitors to have a great time and let loose. 

In recent years, the city has been drawing a growing digital-nomad population, which adds to the lively vibe of the place, and it’s always had a thriving expat community. And since this is a place where Mexican families vacation, it feels less like a magnet only for North Americans.

Are Puerto Vallarta beaches swimmable?

The Pacific Ocean is a force to be reckoned with, and many resorts that lie on its shores are the exclusive domain of the surfing community. But that’s not the case in Puerto Vallarta. Thanks to the protection of the bay, waves are smaller here, creating safe swimming conditions.

The 12 best drive-in theaters in the US

Since 1933, drive-in cinemas have turned the automobile into a private theater box, allowing moviegoers to catch a film under the stars. At the height of the drive-in craze, there were more than 4,000 drive-ins across the US. Although there are fewer than 300 left, their nostalgia factor continues to draw crowds.

Are you heading to a drive-in for the first time? There are a few things you should know beforehand. 

  • Check the theater’s website for current rules on parking and concessions, and stay close to your car. 

  • Turn off your lights to avoid distractions, and arrive early if you want a prime spot. 

  • Support the theater by buying concessions rather than bringing your own, as outside food isn’t usually allowed (although some theaters offer permits). 

  • Drive-ins operate rain or shine, so prepare for any weather and you might want to bring a battery-powered radio to avoid draining your car battery.

  • Carry cash, as many family-run theaters don’t take credit cards. 

With those tips in mind, you’re ready to plan your trip to one of these twelve best drive-in theaters in the US.

Neon drive in sign at dusk
Drive-in theaters have seen a resurgence as we continue to social distance © Thomas Winz / Getty Images

1. Big Sky Drive-in, Wisconsin

Wisconsin Dells is best known for its water parks, but Big Sky Drive-in on Route 16 is a worthy addition to the lineup of local attractions – it’s open daily from Memorial Day to Labor Day. Their homemade sloppy joes are a unique and delicious concession offering. 

Planning tip: This drive-in is cash only, so bring enough to cover admission ($10 for adults, $5 for 11 and under and free for babies under 2) and food with you.

2. Stardust Drive-in, Tennessee

Middle Tennessee residents love this theater in sleepy Watertown, an easy 20-30 minute drive from Nashville. Two screens show dual double features nightly during the summer, but you must choose one screen and stay there. Come early and spend the afternoon browsing the shops in Watertown’s small but lovely square, or visit on Labor Day weekend for a themed triple feature.

Join the ‘Hull’s Angels’ at this unique community-run drive-in in the Shenandoah Valley © High Standard Aerial Photography

3. Hull’s Drive-in, Virginia

Many drive-ins are family-owned, but Hull’s is the first community-owned drive-in in the USA. Run by volunteers called “Hull’s Angels,” the theater is open from March to October and is an entertainment highlight of the quirky Shenandoah Valley. Old-fashioned speakers on poles still mark each spot, although you can also listen to the films via your FM radio.

4. Finger Lakes Drive-in, New York

The oldest drive-in in New York state, located near Auburn, has entertained Finger Lakes-area residents since 1947. A charming retro marquee welcomes visitors to the single screen, which plays double features nightly during the summer. Concession stand prices start at $3 for small popcorn and candy items. 

5. 66 Drive-in, Missouri

One of the few drive-ins remaining on the US’s storied Route 66, the 66 Drive-In in Carthage, Missouri, is open from April to September. This theater is even more kid-friendly than most drive-ins: children under five are free, and they only book family-friendly double features. Admission must be paid in cash, but debit/credit cards are accepted at concessions.

An aerial view of the Coyote Drive-in, Fort Worth
Catch a double feature within the city limits of Fort Worth at the Coyote Drive-in © Courtesy of Coyote Drive-in

6. Coyote Drive-in, Texas

It’s rare for a drive-in to be within the city limits – that’s just one of the standout features of Coyote Drive-in in Fort Worth, Texas. In addition to showing double features on four separate screens, the venue hosts special events and has a full canteen-style menu with wine and beer that can be delivered to your vehicle. While you wait for the show to start, let your kids run around the playground, play arcade games or listen to live music. 

7. 99W Drive-in, Oregon

Outside Portland in Newberg, this family-run drive-in has drawn crowds since 1953. Watch for the vintage concession reel that plays between the double feature. Even though 300 cars can fit in front of the single screen, shows at 99W frequently sell out during the season, especially at the height of summer.

Planning tip: go on Sunday night for a smaller crowd.

Silver Moon Drive-in
Not only does it have a double screen, but the Silver Moon Drive-in also boasts a cool flea market © Courtesy of Silver Moon Drive-in

8. Silver Moon Drive-in, Florida

This double-screen drive-in has been operating for over 75 years and is conveniently located about halfway between Tampa and Orlando in Lakeland, Florida. Unlike other theaters, Silver Moon offers double features seven nights a week. The snack bar features homemade pizza and Budweiser beer. 

Planning tip: if you’re going on a Saturday or Sunday night, don’t miss the flea market that fills the theater venue during the day.

9. Highway 21 Drive-in, South Carolina

The balmy, humid summer nights in the Lowcountry might be the perfect drive-in theater weather. Highway 21 Drive-in in Beaufort, South Carolina, is open Thursdays-Sundays year-round and shows double features on three screens, one of which was new as of 2022. The concession stand serves root beer floats, funnel cakes, sno-cones and the usual pizza/hot dog fare. The theater shows the occasional repertory film as well as new releases.

10. Bengie’s Drive-In, Maryland 

If you’re looking for drive-in bragging rights, go to Bengie’s in Maryland, which claims the largest drive-in screen in the USA. About 30 minutes from Baltimore, this theater is in a quiet spot near the shore, not far from Dundee Creek (tie in your movie night with a visit to Marshy Point Nature Center).

Planning tip: When you purchase tickets, you must know the height of your vehicle. You must have at least two people per vehicle and pay an extra $20 to bring your own food and drink. 

The billboard of the 66 Drive-in along the historic route 66 in the city of Carthage.
The iconic billboard of the 66 Drive-in along the historic route 66 in the city of Carthage in Missouri © Tiago Fernandez / Getty Images

11. Shankweiler’s Drive-In, Pennsylvania

As the oldest drive-in theater in America, Shankweiler’s in Orefield, Pennsylvania, has been charming moviegoers since 1934. This single-screen theater shows double features every night and is open spring through fall. It’s accompanied by a concession stand offering the usuals, like popcorn, soft pretzels and chili cheese dogs. Admission is $12 for adults and $8 for children under 12. 

12. The Wellfleet Drive-In, Massachusetts

The last drive-in open on Cape Cod in Massachusetts, the Wellfleet Drive-In combines coastal charm with classic drive-in appeal. Open from May through September, the complex also hosts a mini-golf course and a dairy bar with ice cream. A bit pricier than other drive-ins, the Wellfleet charges $15 per adult and $10 for kids 4-11. 

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How to plan a bachelor or bachelorette party abroad

Organising a bachelor or bachelorette party might seem like a breeze compared to wedding planning, but there’s plenty to keep best men and maids of honor busy when it comes to logistics, particularly if you’re taking the celebrations – and a gaggle of expectant guests – to a foreign country.

Ensure the bride or groom has an unforgettable trip and avoid common pitfalls with these tips for planning a bachelor or bachelorette party abroad.

1. To surprise, or not to surprise?

Some brides and grooms want oversight of every element, while others relish the idea of relinquishing all responsibility. If you’re arranging a trip abroad without the bachelor or bachelorette’s knowledge, you’ll need to conspire with their partner or family to ensure their passport is valid, insurance is up to date, and appropriate bags are packed for the big reveal. Keeping plans under wraps can be an extra burden – there’s always a chance someone could let slip – but if the man or woman of the moment loves surprises (and travel!) you’ll earn mega friendship points.

2. Consider the guest list

The smaller the group, the easier trip planning will be – but unless you’re arranging your own party, that’s out of your hands. Whether invites extend to an entourage of BFFs or a motley crew of distant cousins, family friends, and colleagues, it’s your job to confirm numbers, create a suitable itinerary and wrangle attendees from A to B. If you don’t already know the guests, consult with the bride or groom to better understand the personalities you’ll be dealing with. Age is just a number, but if elders (particularly soon-to-be in-laws) are involved, they might want to opt out of certain shenanigans – and ideally the trip would allow for that.

Silhouette of male friends jumping together during sunset on the beach.
To get a group together, find a date as far in advance as possible. Jekaterina Vassilenko / Shutterstock

3. Plan in advance

Coordinating calendars as a group can be a nightmare – especially if you’re going to be travelling during spring/summer, aka ‘wedding season’ – so it pays to find a date as far in advance as possible. Find the sweet spot using scheduling apps such as Doodle or WhenAvailable, then urge everyone to keep note of the dates so they don’t get double booked. This way you’ll also be able to take advantage of early-bird deals, and are likely to have a better choice of accommodation.

4. Get finances in order

It’s essential to be up front about money as soon as possible. The cost of traveling abroad for a bachelor or bachelorette party is the biggest barrier to entry for most people, and chances are you’ll get some dropouts. Scour the web or work with a travel agent to find the best group discounts, and factor in a combination of free activities and optional extras.

To avoid last-minute cancellations, provide all guests with a realistic outline of estimated costs from the outset – it’s better to overestimate than to surprise them with additional costs later on. Asking guests to cough up an extra $250 once they’ve paid for a hotel and flights is a recipe for severe tension.

‘The boys had arranged a party bus to transfer us from the airport to our hotel in Budapest – but had failed to bring enough cash to pay the – ahem – entertainment. We had to pull over at an ATM, which wasn’t ideal for anyone involved.’ – Tom, regular bachelor party attendee and newly-wed.

Three friends toasting with cocktails in England.
Communication is key for a successful bachelorette party. Westend61 / Getty Images

5. Communicate like a pro

How you share information with the group can make or break a trip. Drip feeding unconfirmed details or bombarding people with choices can result in lengthy WhatsApp debates (which no one has time for) and frustration. If you need help, ask another member of the group who has experience of these types of trips to help you make decisions and only message everyone with clear info and key updates. Remind people of the basics – departure date, flight times, itinerary – periodically too, so no one forgets!

6. Choose the right accommodation

If you’re going to be out from dawn until dusk (or 4am…) then accommodation might not be your top priority – but don’t book the cheapest hostel you can find without considering other options. House or villa rentals can be vastly superior and surprisingly budget friendly, and even the most chilled guests will appreciate a clean bathroom and a comfy bed. If your plans are more low-key, decent digs can double as a spot to host a movie night, pampering session or butler in the buff…

‘My maid of honor had planned a morning of standup paddleboarding in Mallorca, but when it rained, I was so glad we were staying in a villa, where we could execute Plan B: afternoon tea and massages.’ – Jess, whose Balearic Island wedding was sunny after all.

Three surfers heading to crowded Bondi Beach, Sydney, on a sunny day.
One big activity per day is a good rule of thumb. xavierarnau / Getty Images

7. Agenda

Crafting an itinerary that suits a diverse group is tricky, and overpacking the schedule is an easy mistake to make. A good rule of thumb is to plan one significant activity per day (eg a bike tour or spa treatment), one main meal and the evening’s entertainment. Allow plenty of time around each of the scheduled activities (for resting, sprucing up and other necessities), and have extra ideas up your sleeve for impromptu excursions. If you’re going somewhere renowned for sunshine, don’t be a fairweather friend: a backup plan in case of bad weather is always a wise move.

‘Bachelorette parties can be too much. The last one I went on in Amsterdam involved a long day sightseeing followed by a dance class before dinner and a club. We only had half an hour for 10 girls to get ready and out of the door in between. It was never going to happen’ – Beth, stressed-out bachelorette.

8. Get cultural

You can have a debaucherous night out almost anywhere – so be sure to incorporate a little local culture into the trip. We’re not talking about a sobering morning at the museum (unless that’s your thing) – but how about a guided tasting of local tipples, a cooking class or private walking tour to see the key sights? These activities can also help bond the group and help you get your bearings before the evening antics commence.

Three girls jumping from a pier into Lake Bled, Slovenia.
Above all, have fun! ferrantraite / Getty Images

9. Fun and games

Most classic bachelor or bachelorette party games are doable anywhere, but why not try something different? Have a go at destination bingo, where you come up with a list of location-specific tasks that attendees compete to finish first. For example, in Paris the list might include: drinking absinthe, spotting the Eiffel Tower, and taking a selfie with a moustachioed Frenchman… let light-hearted cultural references be your guide. Bachelor or bachelorette party package providers often run GPS-based treasure hunts for city breaks if you’d prefer a tried and tested team-building session.

Want to give the bride or groom a souvenir of their send-off? No, we’re not talking matching tattoos… Ask all guests to take photos during the trip and add them to a shared drive. Everyone can then look back with smiles – or shudders of regret – and you can create a memento book to present to your soon-to-be-wed BFF.

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7 ways to get to know Montevideo, Uruguay

In Montevideo, a sophisticated city can’t escape the influence of the rural campo (countryside). The result is a metropolitan center with an irresistibly not-so-fast-paced urban pulse.

Once a fortified citadel, the Ciudad Vieja (old city) is today surrounded by traces of the city walls, first erected in 1741. Beyond this historic core, visitors can stroll the longest continuous sidewalk in the world, relax on sandy beaches, gorge themselves in one of South America’s best food cities, visit countless museums or sway to carnaval rhythms year-round.

Here’s our guide to the top things to do in the Uruguayan capital.

People jog with a dog along Pocitos' Rambla as a double rainbow appears during sunset over Montevideo
Join the runners, rollerbladers and strollers on the waterfront Rambla, the longest continuous sidewalk in the world. Mariana Suarez/AFP via Getty Images

1. Cycle, rollerblade or stroll the Rambla

At nearly 14 miles (23km), Montevideo’s riverfront Rambla is the longest continuous sidewalk in the world. The avenue snakes along the coast and is popular for cycling and rollerblading. And for sipping yerba maté, too.

This traditional Indigenous drink was first cultivated by the Guaraní in Paraguay, then popularized as a shared communal drink by the Charrúa in Uruguay. Many Uruguayans always carry their kit with them, which includes the yerba (loose caffeinated tea leaves), a mate (the cup, traditionally a gourd), bombilla (perforated spoon-like straw) and thermo (hot-water bottle).

Take your maté and go for a stroll on the Rambla around sunset. You’ll pass by a skate park, the moving Holocaust Memorial, Pittamiglio Castle and plenty of street musicians.

Local tip: It’s customary in Uruguay to share your yerba maté with complete strangers. Since this isn’t particularly sanitary, we recommend buying your own kit, available at any grocery store.

2. Visit Museo de la Memoria

As a complement to sunny beach days, the Museo de la Memoria, open since 2007, offers insights and context into the country’s 12-year civic-military dictatorship (1973–85). The site also honors the 200 Uruguayans who were “disappeared” during the junta (the Desaparecidos), and who are still unaccounted for.

A permanent exhibition featuring pots and pans looks inconspicuous at first. Yet visitors learn that during this era, Uruguayans used these simple kitchen implements as tools of dissent. Protesting the state-sanctioned killing of civilians, residents would bang these objects loudly during events known as cacerolazos – creating chaotic noise that resounded through the halls of power.

Performers in costume and face paint during a carnaval murga show, Montevideo, Uruguay, South America
Festive murga shows take place in and around Montevideo during its epic annual carnaval celebrations. Getty Images

3. Experience carnaval year-round

If you visit Uruguay between the end of January and early March, you can take part in the longest carnaval celebration in the world: Uruguayans celebrate for 40 to 50 days in the lead-up to Easter. The festivities are a huge draw for locals, though foreign visitors are most welcome.

The tradition of carnaval was brought to Uruguay by enslaved Africans. Their descendants introduced candombe drums, a large percussion instrument that’s worn on the body and played as the performer walks in the street.

Candombe is the heartbeat of Uruguay and was designated a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2009. During carnaval, candombe is part of nearly every performance, with groups painting and decorating their drums to match the colors of the bedazzled lingerie and feathers worn by the dancers.

To kick off the celebrations, the Inaugural Parade takes place at the end of January, at which candombe drummers parade with dancers along central Avenida 18 de Julio. The following night is usually the Samba Schools Parade, where performers dressed in colorful carnaval garb dance through the street. In February, the Las Llamadas parade features candombe drummers performing as they walk the streets of the Afro-Uruguayan neighborhoods of Barrio Sur and Palermo.

Between parade dates, you can visit one of the many tablados (stages set around the city), which play host to frequent performances by satirical singing groups called murga, who wear face paint and clown-like costumes.

If you can’t make it for the festivities, get a taste of the celebrations at the Museo del Carnaval, which exhibits costumes, drums and videos of performances. Additionally, candombe groups practice year-round – and even without the colorful costumes and fanfare, they still offer rafter-raising sounds.

Each neighborhood has a group that typically rehearses once a week on the streets in preparation for the annual Competition of Carnaval Groups. Every Sunday in the late afternoon, for example, drummers gather in Barrio Sur to play candombe – and anyone is welcome to join in. Simply follow the sound of the drums to find the group.

Local tip: Unfortunately, since pickpocketing is prevalent at these gatherings, you should keep an eye on your personal belongings.

Sausages and other meets cook on an asado grill in Central Market, Montevideo, Uruguay, South America
Don’t miss Uruguay’s world-famous meats, best enjoyed fresh from the asado (grill). Getty Images

4. Load your plate with grass-fed beef

Uruguay is known across the world for its superb grass-fed beef. (Statistics help explain why: there are at least three sheep and three cows per Uruguayan citizen.) This richness underlies a sacrosanct Uruguayan tradition: the weekly asado, when friends and family gather for a feast of different cuts of grilled meat served along with vegetables.

If you don’t manage to score an invite, you can still have a traditional parrilla dinner experience at García, a popular restaurant that’s served premium cuts of meat paired with curated local and international wines since 1967. The elegant dining room is a favorite for Uruguayans celebrating a special occasion.

Local tip: The well-known Mercado del Puerto has, alas, lost its charm and is today an overrated tourist trap. Instead, head to Casa Pastora, Mercado Williman and Mercado Ferrando, which all have food stalls serving parrillas.

Fans of Nacional raise their arms and cheer in the stands at Gran Parque Central stadium, Montevideo, Uruguay, South America
Uruguayans are mad for soccer – and a match is an unmissable experience in Montevideo. Ernesto Ryan/Getty Images

5. Cheer on your favorite soccer team

The first World Cup was held in Uruguay in 1930 at Estadio Centenario – and the Uruguayan squad (naturally) won the title. Today, the two most prominent teams in fútbol-mad Montevideo are Peñarol and Nacional. The former dons yellow and black and plays at the Campeón del Siglo stadium, while the latter wears red, white and blue and calls Gran Parque Central stadium home.

Choose a team to support – then catch a match during the Uruguayan Primera División season, which lasts from May to December. If there isn’t a game while you’re in town, you can learn more about Uruguayan soccer at the Museo del Fútbol.

Beautiful sunset on Ramyres beach with bathers on a summer day in Montevideo Uruguay
Montevideo is a beach town through and through. Thiago Santos/Shutterstock

6. Enjoy sand and surf on Montevideo’s beaches

Surrounded by the wide Río de la Plata, Montevideo is a rare capital that’s also a beach town through and through. The most popular beach in town is Playa de Los Pocitos, which offers soft sand and volleyball courts.

This true city beach is framed by the waterfront buildings of the namesake Pocitos neighborhood. In the summer months, you’ll see scads of umbrellas that protect from Uruguay’s notoriously high UV rays (which can reach as high as 11).

Local tip: The beaches are small and get busy on the weekend, so plan your beach day during the week to avoid crowds.

8. Head east to Punta del Este

Once you’ve gotten to know the capital, take a direct bus from the Tres Cruces terminal to Punta del Este on the Atlantic coast.

Here, you can relax at Playa Brava by the famous La Mano en la Arena sculpture, watching surfers at Playa el Emir or catching the sunset while enjoying a pitcher of clericó (white-wine sangria) from Parador I’marangatú.

Planning tip: Add a day trip to your day trip by heading from Punta del Este to places like the Punta Ballena whale lookout point, the Fundación Pablo Atchugarry sculpture garden and the Arboretum Lussich.

A first-time guide to Isla Holbox, Mexico

Isla Holbox (pronounced “holl-bosh”) still retains the feel of the Yucatán Peninsula’s coastline before the arrival of mass tourism in the 1970s.

Until a couple of decades ago, only a handful of local fishing families inhabited the island. And while there has been a noticeable rash of development in recent years, it remains a sand-streets, palm-trees-and-golf-carts kind of place.

Sure, you can now find yoga studios, vegan-friendly restaurants and trendy bars here. But the town’s proximity to wilderness and laid-back aesthetic set it apart from other destinations in the region. The star attractions are natural setting and gently shelving beach, lined with chaise-filled bars.

Perched at the tip of a promontory of forest-covered, fractured islands in the northeast corner of Yucatán, Holbox is still only accessible by boat. It’s this relative isolation that has preserved much of the settlement’s charm, and which makes it stand out.

A white-sand beach with spaced-out palm trees and a shallow shelf of water in the distance. A yellow-painted boat is visible in the foreground.
Once you’ve made the multi-step journey, Isla Holbox is place to slow down and mellow out. Alexander Shalamov/Getty Images

When should I go to Isla Holbox?

November through March are cooler, less humid months to visit Isla Holbox. During this time, the region sees little rain and calmer seas, although accommodation prices peak during the Christmas and spring-break seasons.

Lower prices attract visitors to resorts along the Quintana Roo coastline during the hurricane season, between June and November. During this time, there’s often more rainfall, and temperatures climb to a balmy 86°F (30°C).

Yet Holbox is a riskier destination at this time since buildings on the island lack the sturdiness of the bigger resort hotels, and there’s a genuine risk of getting stranded during a hurricane, given that the only way to and from the town is by boat.

Nonetheless, nature is at its best during this time. The bioluminescence is resplendent during the summer months on either side of a new moon, and the tiny organisms responsible for the phenomenon are what attract whale sharks to the region between May and September.

How much time should I spend in Isla Holbox?

It depends on your desired pace – for Isla Holbox a place to slow down and mellow out. The ideal spell is a two- or three-night break, which factors in the travel time to get to get here, allowing room to fit in a spot of snorkeling, a boat tour around Punta Mosquito and plenty of lounging on the beach.

A family driving in golf cart along the tropical beach of Isla Holbox, Mexico
Besides your own two feet, golf carts are the main mode of transport on Isla Holbox. Getty Images

Is it easy to get in and around Isla Holbox?

It takes a bit of planning to get to and from this isolated spot. The ADO bus company runs multiple daily services between the main bus stations in downtown Cancún and Mérida to the dusty town of Chiquilá, on the mainland.

From there, you’ll take either the Holbox Express or the 9Hermanos ferry from the pier one block north of Chiquilá bus station to Isla Holbox (ticket booths for both are located right outside the bus station). Holbox Express runs hourly departures on the half-hour between 6:30am and 9:30pm, while 9Hermanos runs hourly on the hour.

Once on the island, it’s only a half-mile’s walk from the ferry terminal to the main beach, passing through the heart of Holbox town on the way. If you’re staying in accommodation away from the center, the main way to get around is by golf cart, which comes in taxi or rental form.

Top things to do in Isla Holbox

Discover wildlife in mangroves and lagoons

While you might not realize it in Holbox town, the island is still one of the wildest stretches of Quintana Roo’s coastline. To discover why, join a wildlife boat tour.

Trips to Tres Islas balance nature and snorkeling, with stops at a cenote, a remote island beach lapped by clear water and a mangrove forest fringing the Yalahau Lagoon.

An alternative tour to Punta Mosquito focuses on seeking out wildlife in the nearby channels and lagoons, such as snakes, crocodiles and flamingos.

The tail of a whale shark spotted near the surface of the ocean
Snorkeling with the whale sharks who frequent the waters off Isla Holbox makes for one of the most thrilling encounters with nature you can have. Lars Leemann/Getty Images

Swim with whale sharks

Sharing this slice of the Gulf of Mexico with the world’s biggest fish is one of the most memorable experiences you can have in all of Mexico.

Whale sharks return to these shores every year between May and September to feed on the plentiful plankton, hoovering up and filtering vast quantities through their gaping mouths.

But don’t let their name put you off: these are true gentle marine giants, some reaching lengths of 32ft (10m) (the largest on record topped a whopping 61ft / 18.6m) yet posing no danger whatsoever.

On your excursion, it’s important to avoid wearing sunscreen in the water, and to keep a respectful distance (be sure to seek out tour operators who uphold this rule). Follow these rules, and you’ll find that snorkeling in the waters where whale sharks feed provides one of travel’s finest interactions with nature.

Bask on the beach

Looking out over the Gulf of Mexico, the north shore of Isla Holbox is fringed with sugar-fine sand, which gives way to a gently shelving, azure Caribbean Sea.

This is all the enticement needed for a lazy day soaking up the natural beauty of it all. Like the whale sharks in the water, hundreds of seabirds flock here to feast: lie back on a chaise lounge with a cocktail to watch the pelicans dive-bombing for fish.

Take a golf cart as far east as you can go for quieter stretches of sand – just watch out for crocodiles in the brackish lagoons nearby.

Take in the night lights

Nights on Isla Holbox are as laid back as the days. Although you’re not going to find the pulsating club nights and rowdy bars common to places like Cancún, Tulum and Playa del Carmen, there is still a fun nightlife scene on the island.

The beach clubs usually stay open until late, while there’s live music at bars around town and occasionally in Parque Central, two blocks south of the main beach. Places to check out include Tribu Bar and Capitán Capitán Beach Lounge.

My favorite thing to do in Isla Holbox

If you’re like me, you might occasionally be looking for a calmer activity in the evening – so this time is when I’ll head to the shoreline in the hopes of seeing a very different light show.

One of nature’s most beguiling spectacles, bioluminescence is the ghostly glow of phytoplankton when disturbed by fish or waves along the shoreline, and it happens regularly off the shores of Holbox.

The best time to experience it is when the moon is in the dimmest phases of its cycle, particularly from June to August.

Colorful hammocks hang from poles in the shallow water of a tropical beach. A pier with a pavilion is visible in the background of the image.
In addition to wildlife excursions, you’ll want to prioritize lounging on the beach in Isla Holbox. Shutterstock

How much money do I need for Isla Holbox?

When budgeting, costs really depend on the time of year you plan to visit. In general, prices on Isla Holbox are lower than major resort cities such as Cancún and Tulum, but increasing popularity means bargain accommodation is getting harder to find.

After factoring in all costs, including transportation and one boat tour over a three-night stay, you can expect to budget anywhere from US$90–120 per person, per day during peak season.

  • Transportation: M$1800 (US$89) per person, including M$600 (US$30) for a bus ticket to Chiquilá, M$600 (US$30) for a round-trip ferry ticket and M$600 (US$30) for an onward bus ticket

  • Hotel double room: M$1000–3000 (US$49–147)

  • Dorm bed in a hostel: M$550 (US$27)

  • Boat tour to Punta Mosquito or similar: M$1050 (US$52)

  • A full-day tour to swim with whale sharks: M$3500 (US$180)

  • Coffee: M$70 (US$3.50)

  • Dinner for two: M$700 (US$35)

  • Beer/pint at a bar: M$60 (US$3)

Can I use US dollars in Isla Holbox?

Yes, US dollars are accepted almost everywhere. Yet it’s worth considering that when you pay using dollars, you’re unlikely to be getting a favorable exchange rate. Wherever possible, pay in cash, with Mexican pesos.

People sit at outdoor tables by night a bar on the beach in a tropical destination
The relatively mellow nightlife seen on Isla Holbox means the island is very safe for visitors. Brester Irina/Shutterstock

How safe is Isla Holbox?

Like the rest of the Yucatán Peninsula, Isla Holbox’ crime rate is significantly lower than the rest of Mexico. Since the community is primarily devoted to and dependent upon tourism, and given its calmer nightlife environment, crime rates are low. Nevertheless, you should apply the usual traveler’s caution – especially when drinking alcohol.

What else should I consider when visiting Isla Holbox?

When traveling during hurricane season (June to November), keep a close eye on hurricane trackers ahead of and during your stay, to keep apprised of inclement weather systems. (The Zoom Earth website is particularly helpful and accurate.)

English is widely spoken on Isla Holbox, but learning and using a couple of friendly words of Spanish is a great way to show respect for local residents.

Planning a trip to California’s Channel Islands? Here’s what you need to know

Hovering just off the coast of Southern California are a string of under-explored islands that offer a peaceful escape from the noise and hubbub of the mainland. If you fancy camping in serene scenery in front of epic sunsets, look no further than California’s Channel Islands.

The eight Channel Islands earn every bit of their ‘North America’s Galapagos’ nickname – more than 150 endemic species of plants and animals are tucked onto these specks of land scattered across the bay between Santa Barbara and San Diego.

For nearly 13,000 years, these islands have stayed largely aloof from domestication, and even from tourism, with one notable exception. This is all rather surprising given that the isles lie within sight of one of the most densely populated parts of the US.

While the island of Santa Catalina is fairly well-known and developed, the other Channel Islands are still wonderfully unspoiled. And while a visit is not as easy as say, a trip to Disneyland, you can have a meaningful experience even on a short day trip from a Southern California harbor.

Here’s how to experience each of the eight islands, starting with the five islands protected as the Channel Islands National Park.

Channel Islands National Park

While the Channel Islands archipelago stretches from Santa Barbara County all the way south to the fringes of San Diego, the five national park islands are more tightly grouped off the shore near Ventura. The National Park Service (NPS) keeps the human impact on these hilly islands to a bare minimum to preserve their raw and natural character.

The islands are mostly treeless with little cover from the near-constant winds, but the wildflowers in spring are superb, as is the hiking year-round. Rangers and volunteers run guided hikes timed to meet some, but not all, boat trips – the NPS operates visitor centers in Santa Barbara and Ventura where you can make inquiries.

Each of the islands has a small, primitive campground with pit toilets and not much else. Everything has to be packed in and out, including water (unless you are staying at the sites on Santa Cruz or Santa Rosa). Make camping reservations with the NPS in advance to secure a spot.

Island Packers runs boat services to the park from Ventura Harbor and nearby Oxnard, and you can take day trips most days to Anacapa and Santa Cruz islands. Boats run less often to Santa Rosa and San Miguel and there are currently no boats to Santa Barbara (though services may resume once the jetty is repaired). Other ways to reach the islands include private boat charters and multi-day cruises, some focusing on diving in the rich and pristine waters of the national park.

Sunny evening view from Anacapa Island, California
Inspirational views come as part of the package in Channel Islands National Park © Tomas Tichy / Shutterstock

If you’re camping, consider bringing along TC Boyle’s 2011 book When the Killing’s Done – part murder-mystery, part environmental parable about an eccentric man’s efforts to prevent the NPS from clearing invasive pigs and rats from the Channel Islands. It was inspired by the ongoing and controversial efforts to remove non-native species introduced by past settlers, which now threaten the fragile environment and endemic species.

Note that from June to November, the Santa Barbara Channel is home to the largest population of blue whales in the world outside of Antarctica. Trips to the islands during these months often include time for whale-spotting. Other whale species spotted here include humpbacks, grey, fin, and minke whales, dolphins and orcas.

Santa Cruz

Best for active day trips for hiking and kayaking

At 96 sq miles, Santa Cruz is the largest and most varied of the Channel Islands. With two rugged mountain ranges – including 2450ft Mt Diablo, the park’s tallest peak – and a picturesque central valley, plus 77 miles of coastal cliffs and abundant native plant and animal life, it’s a beacon for hikers and campers.

Wildlife spotters may encounter its two best-known inhabitants, the scrub jay and the island fox. While distinct subspecies of this charmingly fearless diminutive fox species are found on six of the Channel Islands, the monogamous scrub jay lives only on Santa Cruz.

The NPS website details the island’s 10,000-year history of human settlement, and there are upwards of 3000 archaeological sites. Look for collections of broken shells lying on the ground away from the ocean for evidence of ancient human activity.

Top Tip: Take a water-based excursion to view the painted cave, a sea cave with striking colors created by algae, lichen and different rock types.

Getting there: There are two landing spots on Santa Cruz: Scorpion and Prisoners Harbor. Scorpion is the main landing site and it takes a little over an hour to get here from Ventura. There are normally several boats daily.

Camping: Reserve the camping site at Scorpion Canyon well in advance via the NPS; this is a popular island and spaces fill up quickly in season. Potable water is available.

Anacapa

Best for easy day trips with stunning views

Fittingly named Anayapax, meaning ‘illusion’ or ‘mirage’ in the language of the Chumash, the island’s original inhabitants, Anacapa is actually a three-islet sliver of land lying 11 miles from the mainland. Wildflowers abound and ground-nesting western gulls greet spring and summer visitors. Their eggs and chicks are safe because Anacapa is naturally predator-free.

Easy year-round hikes lead to a stolid 1932 lighthouse and mind-boggling westward and mainland views. Keep an eye out for sightings of the endemic Anacapa deer mouse and Channel Island slender salamander.

Top Tip: Look for abalone shells left by the Chumash people up to 5000 years ago.

Getting there: Boat trips taking one-hour leave most days from Oxnard on the mainland.

Camping: The campsites are a half-mile climb up 157 stairs from the boat landing site, and you’ll need to bring water.

Humpback Whale in the Channel Islands National Park, California
Humpback whales are just one of many cetacean visitors to Channel Islands National Park © Vikki Hunt / Shutterstock

San Miguel

Best for observing seals and sea lions

Known for being wind-swept, foggy and cold, San Miguel is at its best on sunny summer days, when the island’s 30,000 pinnipeds – including northern elephant seals, California sea lions, northern fur seals and harbor seals – haul up on the shores. You can see tons (literally!) of them lounging around at Point Bennett, reached via a 16-mile ranger-led hike.

Along the way, you’ll pass the ghostly Caliche Forest, composed of calcium carbonate casts of roots formed around 14,000 years ago. Keep an eye out for endemic flora such as giant coreopsis, poppies, dudleya, locoweed and buckwheat. Native species are making a comeback since the removal of non-native grazing animals such as voracious goats and other feral livestock.

Top Tip: San Miguel has the toughest weather of all the Channel Islands – 30mph winds are typical, so bring appropriate clothing.

Getting there: It takes around 3½ hours to reach San Miguel from Ventura and there are only two dedicated day trip services each year. Boats for campers run two to three times per week but only during certain months (see the Island Packers website for details). There is no pier, so expect to get wet getting to shore.

Camping: The San Miguel campsites are a steep 1¼-mile hike from the beach landing site, and you must bring your own water.

Santa Rosa Island

Best for beach fun and hiking to see spring wildflowers

Set out on one of the trails crossing 84-square-mile Santa Rosa Island and imagine how it must have felt to be the archaeologist who discovered 13,000-year-old human bones here — the oldest human remains ever found in North America. This part of America looked very different at the time; if you scour the eroding cliffs, you may find evidence of extinct pygmy mammoths.

For more recent history, you can visit bunkhouses, corrals and ranch houses located near the pier – a reminder of the days when livestock still grazed this former cattle ranch and the island was used as a big game hunting park.

Nature has bounced back impressively and you can search for Channel Island natives such as the cute (and potentially stinky) island spotted skunk, the non-venomous dwarf island gopher snake, and the island fence lizard. Take time to explore the grove of Santa Rosa Island Torrey Pines — the world’s rarest pine tree, and a relic from an ancient Pleistocene-era forest. These gnarled survivors grow to about 50 feet tall.

Top Tip: Don’t miss the hike along Water Canyon Beach, a spectacular and nearly deserted two-mile strip of white sand directly south of the landing pier.

Getting there: It’s a 2- to 3-hour boat ride to the island from Ventura. The service for campers runs a couple of times per week, and there are infrequent day trips.

Camping: The campsite is a flat 1½-mile walk from the pier and there’s potable water.

Campground on San Miguel Island at Channel Islands National Park, California
Campers on outlying islands in Channel Islands National Park get windbreaks to keep off the strong island winds © Tom Bean / Alamy Stock Photo

Santa Barbara Island

Best for spotting sea birds and solitude

One-square-mile Santa Barbara Island is the smallest Channel Island and the least visited island in the national park, seen by fewer than 750 people annually. This means visitors can enjoy its five miles of rolling trails in near solitude.

Circumnavigate this steep-sided isle for sightings of pinnipeds and the islands’ three endemic subspecies of land birds, or head up 634ft Signal Peak for stunning views of Sutil Island – and a chance of spotting a resting peregrine falcon.

The island is a critically important nesting ground for at least 11 species of seabirds, with one of the world’s largest congregations of Scripps’s murrelets. Sharp-eyed springtime visitors can spy young California brown pelicans, western gulls and multiple species of cormorants and storm petrels. Tropical brown boobies have started making regular appearances too, and have hatched at least one chick on Sutil.

Top Tip: This is an island for those who really want solitude – contemplate the splendid isolation at the north end of the island, where a lonely rock arch juts into the bay.

Getting there: Severe storm damage to the island’s wooden dock means that there is currently no scheduled service to the island, although you may be able to charter a boat and land on a rocky ledge. Check in with Island Packers to see when scheduled boat services are set to resume.

Camping: The campground is reached via a 200ft walking path from the landing point, and you may have to shoo away some lounging sea lions to get there. You’ve been warned!

Non-National Park Channel Islands​

There are more islands beyond the national park boundaries. Santa Catalina is a busy vacation spot, and nearby are San Nicolas and San Clemente, which you can only view from the water on boat trips.

A diver admires a jellyfish in the Channel Islands National Park
Divers in the Channel Islands can get up close and personal with everything from jellyfish to seals © Douglas Klug / Getty Images

Santa Catalina

Best for creature comforts and bison!

From 1911 onwards, Hollywood stars started flocking to Catalina Island for sportfishing and expensive nights out at the red-roofed art deco casino at Avalon, occasionally leaving behind movie extras, including a herd of live bison. Now stars in their own right, the bison still wander the hillsides, delighting visitors who chance across them.

Sporty types love Avalon for its outdoor activities, city-center beach, dining and lodging options, and sporting history. Baseball fans can visit the site of the original Wrigley Field, where the Chicago Cubs trained for 30 years from 1921 to 1951 (with a gap during WWII). It’s now a public golf course.

On the narrow isthmus that almost divides the island in two, the village of Two Harbors offers the opportunity to get away from the Avalon bustle and camp in relative peace and quiet.

Top Tip: Rent a golf cart to get around, instead of a car; this isn’t an island where you need to rush.

Getting there: Fast and slow ferries run daily from Long Beach, Dana Point and San Pedro. The glitterati opt for pricey helicopter transfers.

Where to stay: There are many options on Catalina, from upscale hotels to less expensive B&Bs. Camping is possible in Avalon and Two Harbors.

San Nicolas and San Clemente Islands

Best for diving

The public is barred from landing on these US naval base islands, but scuba diving, boating and swimming in approved waters are okay and many boat trips run out here from the mainland. Before becoming a launch platform for missile testing, San Nic was home to the ‘Lone Woman of San Nicolas Island,’ the last Native American to live on the islands and the inspiration for Karana, the heroine of Scott O’Dell’s Newbury-award-winning novel, Island of the Blue Dolphins.

San Clemente is the southernmost Channel Island, and it’s an important elephant seal rookery. This is also the spot where human Navy SEALs train for missions, such as the raid against Osma Bin Laden’s compound in Pakistan, for which a replica was built on the island. It’s also a naval ship-to-shore firing range.

Getting there: The only way for civilians to visit is on scuba diving, fishing and boating trips arranged through commercial operators on the mainland.

Portions of this article appear in Corinne Heyning Laverty’s book, North America’s Galapagos: The Historic Channel Islands Biological Survey. University of Utah Press, December 2019

Get to know Anchorage through these 6 neighborhoods

Founded a little over a century ago, the largest city in Alaska is composed of neighborhoods with a newness and spaciousness you won’t find in denser, older places.

Urban districts this far north are spread out and subtly influenced by the yawning wilderness that surrounds them. And you might be surprised at just how cosmopolitan some of them are: Anchorage is home to the single most statistically diverse neighborhood in the USA.

In these six neighborhoods, you’ll be able to sample some of the city’s unique flavors, many of them low-cost or even free.

1. Downtown

Best for history and museums

Since many come to Anchorage as a stopping-off point for excursions elsewhere in the state, Downtown is only neighborhood many visitors will see. Here is where you’ll find the bulk of the city’s nice hotels, the state’s best museum, and all the requisite shops and restaurants. While on the low-rise, low-key side, the area has its quirks, such as the world’s only urban king salmon fishery at Ship Creek.

Ship Creek is where Anchorage began as a tent camp, in 1915; the settlement soon relocated to more-stable bluffs south of the river. These bluffs are home to some of the oldest buildings still standing in town, including the Oscar Anderson house (now a museum), one of the first solid structures to grace the urban grid. Nearby, another historic property, the Copper Whale Inn, offers one of Downtown’s more atypical accommodation options.

Until the 1920s, forest flourished right up to the edge of 10th Ave, and what is now Delaney Park between present-day 9th and 10th Aves served as a firebreak. The more spread-out residential neighborhood that lies to the south – the so-called South Addition – was built in the 1930s and ’40s.

A moose grazes in a field by an inlet with skycrapers of a city and mountains in the distance
None of Anchorage’s neighborhoods are too far from the yawning wilderness that surrounds them. Shutterstock

2. Midtown

Best for reasonably priced accommodation

South of Downtown, Midtown is a symmetrical grid of shopping malls, chain hotels and modern bar-grills serving craft beer and burgers. What it lacks in dashing good looks, it makes up for in convenience.

With a growing number of affordable, mid-range hotels, this neighborhood can offer better value than Downtown, as long as you’re up for a bit of urban walking. And you won’t have to roam far to eat well. Midtown and its adjacent neighborhoods of North Star and Taku-Campbell offer several decent breakfast spots, a good stash of Korean restaurants (an Anchorage specialty) and one of the city’s favorite destination breweries: Moose’s Tooth, a made-in-heaven marriage of gourmet pizzas and custom-brewed beer.

The neighborhood’s only real green spot is 15-acre Cuddy Family Midtown Park, which boasts a giant kids’ playground and waterfowl-filled lagoon. The southeastern corner of the district is brushed by the 7-mile Campbell Creek Trail, the western gateway to the rawer realm of Far North Bicentennial Park.

A wide view of large houses on a tree-covered hill with a soaring mountain in the distance
Part Bel-Air, part gateway to wilderness, Hillside is one of Anchorage’s most sought-after areas for residents. JT Fisherman/Shutterstock

3. Hillside

Best for trailheads into the wilderness

Spending time in Hillside in southeastern Anchorage feels like having one foot in the wilderness and one foot in an Alaskan version of Bel-Air. Flush up against the valleys and peaks of Chugach State Park and filled with some of the city’s most sought-after homes, this is a neighborhood of sweeping views and sprawling lots where you’re just as likely to find a bear rifling through your garbage as a raccoon.

Set apart from the city’s main retail and commercial districts, Hillside is more suited to activity-focused day trips than random wandering. Far North Bicentennial Park, Anchorage’s largest, contains a wildlife preserve and a small nonprofit ski area inside its 4000 acres. Densely forested and rich in fauna, it seems way too wild to be within the city limits.

The vast majority of visitors and locals gravitate a little further south to the Glen Alps Trailhead to tackle the craggy face of Flattop Mountain. Considered Anchorage’s ultimate fitness test, Flattop is a short, rough climb to a wide, rocky summit from which paragliders launch into the sky. It’s eternally popular with intrepid hikers in summer, when there’s a daily shuttle to and from Downtown.

A bassist with long hair performs in close proximity to concertgoers in a rock club
Chilkoot Charlie’s in Spenard is a mainstay of Anchorage’s nightlife scene. O’Hara Shipe for Lonely Planet

4. Spenard

Best for nightlife

One of the metro area’s more independently minded neighborhoods, Spenard has a quirky character that stems from its status as a separate city until the mid-1970s. While Anchorage began life as a tent city, Spenard, 3 miles to the south, grew up as a lumber camp: the area takes its name from a Canadian businessman named Joe Spenard, who built the area’s original logging road (now Spenard Rd) in the 1910s.

By Alaskan standards, its personality is positively bohemian. At the Bear Tooth Theatrepub, you can eat chicken-chipotle tacos and drink craft beer while watching the latest action movie. Nearby, the Yak & Yeti Cafe introduces diners to the delights of Tibetan cuisine, while establishments like Middle Way Cafe counter Alaska’s subsistence-hunting image with a menu filled with vegetarian and vegan options.

Then there’s the nightlife. Spenard might be the best place in Anchorage to blow your vacation budget, courtesy of places like Chilkoot Charlie’s, an eccentric emporium of drinking, dancing and live music that has been loosening collars since 1970.

5. Mountain View

Best for diverse cuisine

A neighborhood 2 miles from Downtown rarely visited by outsiders, Mountain View is more intriguing than first impressions would suggest: a study in the 2010s concluded it was the most diverse neighborhood in the US. Native Alaskans, Asians and Pacific Islanders are well established in the community, with Ethiopians, Peruvians and Somalis among more-recent arrivals.

While not really set up for tourists, the neighborhood can be shoehorned into a short afternoon trip from Downtown. Cycle the Ship Creek Trail to its eastern terminus and then wobble along Mountain View Dr, with its ethnic grocery stores and small restaurants, until you find a place that looks appetizing. Hawaiian-themed Hula Hands concocts authentic pulehu (wood-fire grilled) chicken, while the fresh-baked pretzel buns at West Berlin pair well with a German pint.

Seaplanes floating in Spenard Lake at sunset with houses and mountain peaks in the distance
Lake Spenard in Turnagain is adjacent to the world’s busiest seaplane base. Tomasz Wozniak/Shutterstock

6. Turnagain

Best for coastal vistas

Though airport-adjacent districts are mostly ignored by travelers unless they’re on the lookout for an affordable layover hotel or nurture a secret fascination for plane-spotting, Anchorage’s Turnagain neighborhood is different. Inhabiting the western tip of the Anchorage peninsula at the point it juts into Cook Inlet, the area is circumscribed by the beautiful Tony Knowles Coastal Trail, which offers the quintessential Anchorage bike ride.

What’s more, the area showcases a tragic chapter of the city’s past. In 1964, the second-biggest earthquake in recorded human history destroyed 75 houses in the vicinity of Turnagain Heights, sending part of a waterside bluff sliding into the sea. The event is memorialized in Earthquake Park, which overlooks the mudflats of Knik Arm. Turnagain has rebounded since the seismically unstable ’60s and today is one of the city’s more expensive zip codes.

Closer to the airport, the Alaska Aviation Museum sits on the south shore of Lake Hood, the world’s busiest seaplane base; nearby, a strip of comfortable mid-range hotels (all with free airport shuttles) line the southern end of Spenard Rd. The Lakefront Anchorage Hotel backs onto Lake Spenard, the eastern extension of Lake Hood, allowing guests to watch the comings and goings of the ubiquitous floatplanes from their rooms.

17 fabulous things to do in Colorado Springs

At the foot of the Rocky Mountains in eastern Colorado, beautiful Colorado Springs retains many of its small-town charms.

Natural attractions in the shape of dramatic Pikes Peak and the vertical sandstone towers of the Garden of the Gods are the main draw here – yet Colorado Springs’ charming neighborhoods make it feel like the cozy mountain outpost it has always been. And after time in town, you’ll surely want to head into the foothills to find amazing hiking, mountain biking and outdoor adventures.

Both in the city and out in nature, here are the best things to do in Colorado Springs.

1. Admire the divine rock formations at the Garden of the Gods

The Garden of the Gods public park is an absolute must-see for Colorado Springs visitors. Designated a National Natural Landmark in 1971, the gorgeous vein of red sandstone at the park is about 290 million years old, with its mountain backdrop particularly striking. Explore the network of paved and unpaved trails, enjoy a picnic and watch climbers test their nerve on the sometimes flaky rock. Bear in mind that scrambling up the rocks is prohibited, and a permit is required for climbing and bouldering.

Those interested in the lives of Native Americans and 19th-century homesteaders in the region will enjoy Rock Ledge Ranch, a living history museum near the park entrance.

2. Do any (or every) kind of outdoor activity at Red Rock Canyon Open Space

Located along Hwy 24, Red Rock Canyon Open Space is a great place for hiking, running, mountain biking, rock climbing, cycling and horseback riding. Rock climbers have access to over 80 bolted climbing routes; if you fancy a bird’s-eye view, you may be tempted by paragliding. A family picnic area includes wheelchair-accessible picnic sites, and the 789-acre park also has also a free-ride area for bicycles. It also contains many miles of trails of varying difficulty, including the Section 16 trail, which leads out of the southwestern corner of the park on a nice 6-mile loop.

Hot air balloons in a crowded Memorial Park in Colorado Springs at Labor Day Lift Off
The Labor Day Lift Off has been soaring for the past 40 years. Hyoung Chang/The Denver Post via Getty Images

3. Watch the balloons ascend at the Labor Day Lift Off

The skyline around Memorial Park fills with hot-air balloons of wonderful colors and shapes every Labor Day weekend at the Labor Day Lift Off, a festive and free three-day event complete with musical entertainment. Running for some 40 years, the event sees amateurs and professionals launching technicolor hot-air balloons into the sky — and you won’t want to miss the early-morning balloon launches and the Saturday-evening “balloon glows.” Adventurous visitors can also pre-book balloon rides from one of the launch sites within town.

4. Channel a frontier vibe in Old Colorado City

History aficionados will love the neighborhood known as Old Colorado City, where the town was founded in 1859. The historic district was the first capital of the Territory of Colorado – and its former Wild West dens of vice now host restaurants, art galleries and souvenir shops. The area has a friendly vibe and maintains its 19th-century ambiance.

You may want to download the Old Colorado City app to add context to your walking tour. Those who prefer physical artifacts should check out the Old Colorado City History Center museum and bookstore, located in a former Baptist church; there’s also a small historical display in leafy Bancroft Park in the center of the area.

5. Score some finds at the Colorado Springs Flea Market

The Colorado Springs Flea Market is a good place for a family outing, particularly for those who enjoy the thrill of bargaining. It runs every weekend year-round on a 30-acre site, hosting up to 500 vendors hawking almost anything you can think of, as well as a variety of food trucks. The market has been running for over 30 years and is completely accessible. It also features an inflatable slide, a Ferris wheel and canoe rides for families and children, and live music and entertainment to add to the vibrant atmosphere.

Cadets and servicemen walk toward the Cadet Chapel at the US Air Force Academy, Colorado Springs, Colorado, USA
Visit the US Air Force Academy to take in the striking modern architecture of the Cadet Chapel. John Hoffman/Shutterstock

6. Meet the Mavericks of tomorrow at the US Air Force Academy

Visit one of the highest-profile military academies in the country for a glimpse into the lives of an elite group of cadets. The US Air Force Academy visitor center provides a general background on the academy and allows access to the dramatic Cadet Chapel, with its beautiful high-modernist architecture.

Visitors can embark on a driving tour of the expansive grounds, checking out the Honor Court and Falcon Stadium. During football season, we highly recommend attending a game: cadets do push-ups for every point scored. Tickets can also be reserved for the graduation ceremony in May, famous for its spectacular airborne spectacles.

7. Try a triple axel (or at least watch a clip of one) at the World Figure Skating Museum & Hall of Fame

Fans of the graceful sport of figure skating should stop by the World Figure Skating Museum & Hall of Fame. The only institution of its kind in the world, this attraction celebrates the greatest names in skating. If you’ve ever wondered how they perform those gravity-defying jumps, you can learn about the intricacies of blades and edges.

The Hall of Fame includes such distinguished skaters as Jayne Torvill and Christopher Dean, Dick Button, Ekaterina Gordeeva and Sergei Grinkov, and Scott Hamilton. Visitors can check out their skates and outfits while looking at stills and video footage of some of the greatest short and long programs ever performed.

8. Zoom indoors at Overdrive Raceway

Kids and big kids alike will have a ball at Overdrive Raceway, the first two-story indoor racetrack in the US. Its zippy electric go-karts make circuits of the downstairs “arrive and drive” track, with a more intensive “speed” track catering to experienced drivers. The track also has go-karts with hand controls for the mobility impaired. An onsite sports bar offers a selection of Colorado craft beer and whiskey and a food menu, helping visitors unwind after the thrill of racing.

Two men feed lettuce to a giraffe in winter at Cheyenne Mountain Zoo, Colorado Springs, Colorado, USA
Cheyenne Mountain Zoo is known for its collection of delightful Somali giraffes. Thomas Barrat/Shutterstock

9. Feed the giraffes at Cheyenne Mountain Zoo

Children will love seeing the largest collection of Somali giraffes in the world at Cheyenne Mountain Zoo, located high up on Cheyenne Mountain. The large private sanctuary is serious about conservation and proud of its comprehensive giraffe-breeding program, as well as its educational programming. Visitors will also find play areas for children, while a chairlift-style ride will give you a bird’s-eye view of the entire enclosure.

10. Celebrate the spirit of the Wild West at Territory Days

The popular three-day Territory Days street festival is held every Memorial Day weekend in historic Old Colorado City, and celebrates the spirit of the Old West. Admission is free to the event, which has evolved from its humble beginnings four decades ago as a small neighborhood craft fair into a vibrant event with over 180 food and craft booths and a children’s play area.

Visitors will delight in educational displays, patriot tributes and live music on four stages, as well as performances by Native American dancers, Wild West gunfight re-enactments and incredible blacksmith demonstrations.

11. Enjoy the Colorado Springs Fine Arts Center’s superb collection

This expansive museum and 400-seat theater at Colorado College originally opened in 1936 and has a strong focus on Native American, Latin American and Spanish Colonial art. Great rotating exhibits draw on the 20,000 pieces in its permanent collection.

The most famous work here is Richard Diebenkorn’s stunning abstract painting Urbana #4. Keep an eye out as well for the collection’s Mexican clay figures, woodcut prints from social-justice artist Leopoldo Mendez and Native American basketry and quilts, as well as abstract works by local artists such as Vance Kirkland and Floyd Tunson.

A view of a the red cards of a Pikes Peak Cog Railway train waiting to load passengers for their return trip to the lower station, with a vista of mountains in the distance, Colorado, USA
If you’re ambitious, you can hike the 13.5-trail to the top of Pikes Peak, a major attraction near Colorado Springs. You can also take the newly refurbished cog railway. Bob Pool/Shutterstock

12. Cross a fourteener off your list by climbing Pikes Peak

Pikes Peak is the most famous of Colorado’s 54 “fourteeners” – peaks that rise more than 14,000ft (4267m) above sea level – and more than half a million visitors reach the summit of what the Ute call “Mountain of the Sun” every year. You can make the demanding 13.5-mile hike straight up the mountain – or, if you’re less ambitious, take the scenic, curvy drive to the top along the 19-mile Pikes Peak Hwy. For more than a century, the Broadmoor Manitou and Pikes Peak Cog Railway has whisked passengers up the slope, letting them join the ever-expanding vistas along the way. At the top, you’ll also find the Summit Visitor Center, with an elevated pathway and overlook.

13. Prepare future astronauts for liftoff at the Space Foundation Discovery Center

This interactive and immersive science-and-technology center is a great place for families to while away a couple of hours. Astro-enthusiasts will love exploring the space artifacts and interactive exhibits as they absorb all sorts of fascinating information on the universe, technology and space exploration. You can also explore the history of humans in space, program robotic rovers to complete mission objectives on simulated Martian terrain and check out scale model rockets and space suits worn by astronauts to protect them from extreme temperatures, micrometeoroids and the nearly pure vacuum of space.

The exterior of the United States Olympic & Paralympic Museum in the shadow of the setting sun, Colorado Springs, Colorado, USA
The new United States Olympic and Paralympic Museum celebrates Team USA – and will inspire the athletes of tomorrow. Shutterstock

14. Get inspired at the United States Olympic & Paralympic Museum

The United States Olympic & Paralympic Museum brings to the forefront stories and experiences to inspire the next generation of Olympic and Paralympic athletes and fans. Here, Team USA athletes are at the center of the action, and the 12 galleries in the 60,000 sq ft building follow a narrative arc taking you through the teams’ journeys using technology that prioritizes accessibility and inclusivity. You can customize your sport preferences and accessibility needs for a tour that is uniquely your own, then chill out afterward at the Flame Café.

15. Enjoy the fruits of Colorado’s renowned craft-beer culture

Colorado Springs offers plenty of choice for fans of craft beers. Centrally located Phantom Canyon Brewing occupies a former warehouse building saved from the wrecking ball in 1993, and today serves pints in a casual atmosphere. Although it’s a bit out of the way, Bristol Brewing Co is worth seeking out for its Laughing Lab Scottish ale and pub-grub menu. Then there’s the eco-friendly Trinity Brewing Co: with a focus on artisan beers, it serves its creations in a taproom repurposed from two barns with a recycled glass bar top, book-arch entry and industrial wheel tables.

16. Take your pick of wonderful parks

Colorado Springs has a wide variety of parks, including Austin Bluffs Open Space, a beautiful reserve strewn with distinctive rock formations dating back to the Eocene period. Walking and hiking trails crisscross the park and the adjacent Pulpit Rock Park, which features a 4.4-mile (7km) loop trail is suitable for adults and kids of good general fitness.

Families will enjoy the wide green lawns and ball fields of Memorial Park, the city’s biggest. Then there’s Acacia Park, home to the much-loved Uncle Wilbur’s Fountain. It has over 200 water jets, 52 of which are part of a play area for kids over which a lifeguard keeps watch.

17. Teach the kids some history at Colorado Springs Pioneers Museum

The small, free-to-enter Colorado Springs Pioneers Museum is a great place to learn about the city’s history. Housed in what was once the El Paso County Courthouse, the collection and exhibition of some 60,000 pieces sums up the region’s history through old photographs and artifacts.

The Native American collection is particularly strong, featuring hundreds of items from the Ute, Cheyenne and Arapaho nations. While history lovers will enjoy tracing Colorado Springs’ evolution from its first incarnation as a mining town, the museum is also a great place for young visitors thanks to its child-friendly exhibits and activities.

Explore the destinations where locals travel in Spain

Where do you go if you want to experience Spain like a local? We tapped our experts in Spain to show us the places where they love to go on vacation there, ranging from slow-traveling around the vineyards and villages of Catalonia with their traditional artisan cultures, to escaping the heat in Asturias and discovering the more laid-back side of Ibiza with its pristine beaches and quiet coves.

Kitesurfing on the beach of Tarifa
Tarifa is one of the best places to practice kitesurfing © Shutterstock / Juanamari Gonzalez

1. Tarifa, Andalucía

Isabella Noble grew up in Málaga and now splits her time between Andalucía and Barcelona

Why Tarifa?

My family stumbled across laid-back, surf-loving Tarifa in the 1990s, and I still escape here every year, whether for a few beachy days in early September (bliss) or working remotely during low season. On the southernmost tip of mainland Europe, in Cádiz province, Tarifa is one of Andalucía’s most magical coastal towns, with miles of wild golden-white beaches, a relaxed vibe and views of neighboring Morocco across the Strait of Gibraltar.

Must-do activity

Cádiz’s Atlantic-washed Costa de la Luz has been popular with Spaniards for years, and Tarifa has a special edge thanks to its lively kitesurfing and windsurfing scene. The entire undeveloped coast stretching northwest from Tarifa is a protected parque natural, and even when things get busy in summer, there are plenty of hidden corners. I love the coastal walk past natural sea pools from tiny Bolonia’s Roman ruins to Punta Paloma dune. Or the hike to secluded El Cañuelo beach – a pine-fringed, back-to-nature paradise where there’s often no one else around.

Tarifa tips

I usually stay at one of the small, independent boutique hotels in Tarifa’s meandering old town; The Riad is a stylishly converted 17th-century home with creative Moroccan-Andalucian design, while Hostal África has boho-cool rooms and rooftop yoga. You’re spoiled for choice with Tarifa’s lively international-influenced food scene; I often grab a fruit-and-yogurt breakfast bowl at Morocco-inspired Café Azul, and later stop for tapas (just-cooked tortilla, payoyo goat’s cheese) on the terrace at El Lola, which also serves local sherries and Cádiz wines.

Vineyards in the hills of Priorat, Catalonia, Spain
Vineyards dot the hillsides between such villages as Porrera in the rural Catalan region Priorat © Getty Images

2. Priorat, Catalonia

Joan Torres is a writer from Barcelona who loves getting off the beaten track

Why Priorat?

In the heart of rural Catalonia, Priorat is an off-the-beaten-track region where visitors can learn about traditional wine making. Many consider the wines produced in Priorat to be the most sophisticated in all of Spain (with prices to match).

Must-do activity

Dotted with several medieval villages, Priorat is best visited on your own wheels, road-tripping from village to village, and cellar to cellar. Álvaro Palacios and Mas Doix are some of the most popular – yet you shouldn’t miss lesser-known, smaller-batch wineries such as Hericamps, which produces no more than 5000 bottles a year. Porrera, Gratallops, Siurana and Falset are all beautiful villages packed with cellars, where you can also find accommodations fitting for every wallet, ranging from budget hostels to luxury boutique hotels within the wineries.

Priorat tips

When it comes to food, La Cooperativa de Porrera is one of the best restaurants in the region for authentic Catalan food, while Brichs, located in Falset, is the place to satisfy more demanding gourmets looking for a more modern version of the local cuisine.

Swimmers in the water at Cala d’Hort beach with Es Vedrà island in the distance, Ibiza, Spain
At Cala d’Hort beach in Ibiza, swimmers can admire mysterious Es Vedrà island © Eo naya / Shutterstock

3. Sant Josep de sa Talaia, Ibiza

Natalia Diaz lives in Madrid and loves writing about food, travel and culture

Why Sant Josep de sa Talaia?

Ibiza is well known as the unrivaled party capital of Europe – yet this is just a tiny sliver of the story of this Mediterranean paradise. Beyond the strobe lights and glamorous nightclubs, the Balearic island has a serene side that’s perfect for those who prefer a more laid-back and nature-oriented experience.

Must-do activity

Drive around to explore Ibiza’s breathtaking natural beauty, from its numerous calas (coves) and majestic cliffs, to its white sand coastlines embraced by clear sapphire waters. Sa Caleta (Es Bol Nou) beach hosts the ancient ruins of the first Phoenician settlement in Ibiza, a Unesco World Heritage Site atop a cliff with panoramic views of the Balearic Sea.

Sant Josep de sa Talaia tips

When I go to Ibiza, I prefer staying at a short-term rental in Sant Josep de sa Talaia, on the western side of the island. (If you’re a big group, you can even rent out an entire villa). Sant Josep offers a perfect mix of rugged natural beauty, chill-out bars and quiet coves, including Cala Comte, Cala d’Hort and Port des Torrent. Es Boldado on Cala d’Hort is hands down my favorite restaurant on the entire island – I can stay here all day dining on fresh seafood and traditional ibicenco cuisine and sipping premium Spanish wines, while enjoying its main feature: a spectacular view of mythical Es Vedrà island, believed to be the tip of Atlantis and legendary home to sirens, sea nymphs and even UFOs.

A hiker on a trail with residual snow in Parque Natural de Somiedo, Asturias, Spain
A hiker’s paradise, Parque Natural de Somiedo in Asturias abounds with natural beauty © Carmen Martínez Torrón / Getty Images

4. Somiedo, Asturias

Paula Sánchez Iglesias and Daniel Del Río Espina are from Avilés and run the Spanish travel blog, Hacemoslasmaletas

Why Somiedo?

In the lush valleys, lakes and mountains of Asturias in northern Spain lies Parque Natural de Somiedo, a Unesco Biosphere Reserve offering a refreshing escape from the summer heat. Situated in the Cantabrian Mountains, Somiedo is a hiker’s paradise that offers breathtaking views of glacial lakes, limestone peaks and beech forests. You’ll also see brañas, traditional cattle-herding settlements with clusters of tietos (thatched cottages). Two of the best hiking routes in the area are El Valle del Lago and Los Lagos de Saliencia.

Must-do activity

This rural paradise is also the habitat of the largest group of brown bears in Western Europe, with around 280 individuals freely roaming the western half of the range. Bear watching is a popular activity here – though we recommend doing this with a local guide so you can learn about conservation efforts. Wolves, wildcats, chamois and red deer can also be found here, along with the possibility of spotting griffon vultures, golden eagles or capercaillies (colorful fowl).

Somiedo tips

Stay in the village of Pola de Somiedo, where you’ll find a range of hotels, homestays and B&Bs. Come meal time, you should book a table at the family-run El D’Iban in the nearby village of Braña de la Peral. Another great dining option, particularly during the colder months, is Sidreria Carion, where you can savor the region’s famous cider, along with hearty dishes like Asturian fabada (a bean stew) or cachopo, a filling dish featuring two large veal or beef escalopes filled with ham and cheese, coated in breadcrumbs and served with locally sourced ingredients. Delicious.

5 of the best beaches in Indonesia that you may never have heard of

That Indonesia has beautiful beaches is no secret.

But a few of them offer even more: some of the most varied coral life in the world, a taste of local cultures and practices and a sense of stillness not found on more mainstream beaches. Getting to them might mean traveling a considerable distance, but once there, they pay back in spades.

A lagoon surrounded by karst rocky outcrops
Explore the underwater world in the nutrient-rich waters around Misool in Raja Ampat © jokoleo / Getty Images

1. Misool, Raja Ampat, Southwest Papua

Best beach for snorkelers and divers

While the beaches in Misool promise white sands, green palms and turquoise waters, its real allure is in what really under those waters.

Shaped like the head of an arrow, it sits on the crossroad of the Ceram Trough and Indonesian Throughflow currents, so nutrient rich that they nurture some of the healthiest and most productive reefs of the planet. For divers and snorkelers, it is an underwater festival with an unforgettable marine topography. Most dive sites are coral reefs with wall diving, swim-throughs, overhangs and drop offs, plus a viewing menu comprising every species of pygmy seahorse, manta ray, reef shark, whale, blue-ringed octopus, gigantic Queensland grouper and dolphin, to name a few. You will need one thick dive log book to document all your encounters underwater here.

You can also swim with thousands of non-stinging jellyfish at the Jellyfish Lake, explore prehistoric rock art or hop from one islet to another on your pinisi (schooner).

Planning tip: Travel to Missol does not come cheap. Don’t visit in July and August when waves are too big and dangerous to brave.

A series of thatched structures with a tall central spire on the edge of a tropical beach
Learn local traditions at the beachside village at Ratenaggaro © MawardiBahar / Shutterstock

2. Ratenggaro Beach, Sumba, East Nusa Tenggara

Best beach for a cultural experience

Sumba – about three islands away from Bali in Indonesia’s remote East Nusa Tenggara province – is quickly becoming the next big thing in the travel world. Many who holiday in this breathtaking haven head to NIHI Sumba, an intimate, uber luxury resort, leaving the rest of Sumba for locals and some discerning surfers. If you are looking for a secluded, no-frills stretch of pearly white sand, Ratenggaro is perfect; however, it’s even better if you seek company at the village fringing the beach. Here you will receive a warm welcome from locals and get a chance to immerse yourself in a culture that is unique to this island.

Witness the mysticism, tradition and ancestral beliefs that Sumbanese practice to this day. The Ratenggaro experience includes chicken and pigs sacrifices to appease the spirits and ensure a good harvest; village architecture designed to house spirits in the tall roofs; and horseback spear-fighting festivals – called Pasola colloquially. Horses are as much a part of this island as buffaloes: both used to help with irrigation of the land and add to the rural vignette of this remote island.

Detour: Surfers won’t find what they’re looking for at Ratenggaro unfortunately. But while on Sumba, don’t miss riding the “Miller’s Right” wave at Pantai Tarimbang. The 5-hour bumpy ride from Ratenggaro may shake your insides, but you’ll be pleased you went before the rest of the world descends on it.

Tall jagged rocks resembling shark's teeth stand on the shore with waves crashing against them
There is an unmatched raw beauty to the rock formations off Gigi Hiu in Lampung Province © CK NG / 500px / Getty Images

3. Gigi Hiu Beach, Lampung Province, Sumatra

Best beach for landscape photography

Gigi Hiu, or “shark teeth,” may not be a recreational beach in the conventional sense, but for a landscape photographer, the raw beauty of this place is worth hours on its shore. The view across the beach is filled with serrated rock formations that have been carved by sea water for millions of years to resemble shark’s teeth. Rising up to perpetually blue skies against the azure waters of the Indian Ocean, these formations allow for stunning long-exposure photography.

While sunrise is most coveted, with the rays giving an ochre hue to the rocks and the waves reflecting light from the sun, nighttime has its own charm. With no light pollution, this beach is becoming a popular and photogenic destination to capture the Milky Way. That it is remote and difficult to reach should be kept in mind. For those who persevere, there is a pot of gold at the end of the rainbow.

Planning tip: Gigi Hiu is located 5km (3 miles) from Kiluan Bay, located in Kiluan Village, which is also where you will drop anchor in one of its handful of homesteads. The beaches on the bay nurture two species of sea turtles, the green sea turtle and the hawksbill turtle, that are often seen swimming subsurface in the Bay’s transparent waters. A 20-minute boat ride can also take you close to the dolphins dancing in open waters with wild abandon.

4. Lengkuas Beach, Belitung, Sumatra

Best beach for families

You don’t always have to trek to far-flung locales to experience secluded, turquoise-trimmed, white-sand beaches in Indonesia. Some are surprisingly easy to get to from Jakarta and yet guarantee solitude. The island of Belitung has been a local “hero” ever since the Indonesian top grossing film Laskar Pelangi (2008), adapted from a book written by Belitung-born Andrea Hirata, was shot here. Mercifully, it didn’t do what Eat Pray Love (2010) did to Bali, and Belitung beaches remain untouched.

Lengkuas is a boat ride away from Tanjung Pandan (where direct flights from Jakarta land) and has pristine white sand, palms, calm greenish-blue waters and gentle waves washing over the contrasting granite rocks indigenous to Indonesia’s Java Sea. Adding to its charm is an operational 19th-century lighthouse built by the Dutch, guiding the passing ships and offering gorgeous bird’s-eye views. It would be a pity if you didn’t hire a boat and explore other parts of Belitung – especially the Tanjung Tinggi beach where the movie was filmed. Even better: read the original book and truly soak in the resilient spirit of the group of 10 school children the story is based on while you experience the “film set.”

Detour: Manggar City in East Belitung – a 2–3-hour trip by road from Tanjung Pandan – is known for its coffee culture. Locals fill the coffee shops, socializing, playing chess and discussing politics and life. Taking in this vibe as well as some good Indonesian coffee is an interesting detour from the usual beach activities.

A sandbar in a turquoise sea with a small fishing boat
Ngurtavur is a narrow sandbar jutting out into the Banda Sea © 81281 / Getty Images

5. Ngurtavur Beach, Southeast Maluku Regency

Best beach for keen bird-watchers

If you visit Ngurtavur in the morning – which you must, to see it in its full glory – yours may well be the first footsteps of the day to leave a mark on this sandbar’s ivory sands. But maybe not if you visit during the peak summer season, when the quiet of island is broken by the grunts of hundreds of pelicans who pause here as they migrate through Indonesia from Papua New Guinea and Australia.

Ngurtavur is a 2km-long (1.2-miles) and 7m-wide (23ft) unadulterated stretch of white sand that juts out from Warbal island into the sea. With a beachful of pelicans, it is perfect for hardcore birders, but you don’t have to be a bird-watcher to soak in the beauty of this beach. The crystal clear azure waters are perfect for swimming or snorkeling. Look out for pygmy seahorses, nudibranchs and almost 250 species of reef-building coral. During high tide, when the sandbar gets cut off from the main beach, some elongated parts of it are only 2cm (0.8in) submerged. When walking on them, it’s almost like walking on water in the middle of the Banda Sea.

Planning tip: There are no accommodations available on Ngurtavur Beach. You can either opt for a homestay at the Ngurbloat (Pasir Panjang) Beach or a hotel in Langgur.