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9 best places to visit in Georgia

Where Europe and Asia grind up against each other, magical Georgia sits on the southern slope of the Great Caucasus mountain range, whose snowcapped peaks run from the Black Sea to the Caspian.

Though relatively small in terms of area, Georgia offers a huge variety of scenery and activities, and its mountainous landscape and limited transport infrastructure combine to make getting about more time-consuming than you might imagine. While there’s no need to limit yourself to just one region, you’re best off deciding what kind of trip you want to have, and then choosing a few parts of the country to focus on.

To help you do that, here are some of the very best places to consider including in any itinerary.

Colorful traditional houses with wooden carved balconies in the Old Town of Tbilisi, Georgia
Admire Tbilisi’s colorful traditional houses with wooden carved balconies in the Old Town © Getty Images/iStockphoto

1. Tbilisi

Best place for urban pursuits

Quickly beguiling anyone who visits, the Georgian capital offers up a fascinating Old Town, a wealth of avant-garde Soviet architecture, traditional sulfur baths, and an extraordinary array of medieval churches. Spread out along the narrow valley of the Mtkvari River, Tbilisi is the kind of place you have to get up high to really appreciate – try taking the cable car to the Sololaki ridge where you’ll find the Narikala Fortress and iconic Mother Georgia (aka Kartlis Deda). You can also take the funicular to the city’s highest point, Mtatsminda, where, on top of stellar city views, you also get a campy fairground and a huge Ferris wheel.

Tbilisi is also the best place in Georgia to eat out, drink wine and go partying, with dozens of innovative menus available at establishments such as Barbarestan, Azarphesha, Alubali and Keto & Kote. This is also one of the best places in the country to sample a range of Georgia’s famous wines and take part in its thumping nightlife. Tbilisi offers you plenty to keep you entertained for days, but can also serve as a base from which to do day trips to various other parts of central Georgia.

Planning tip: Book at least a week ahead for the best Tbilisi restaurants in the summer months.

Crowds of people are relaxing on a pebble beach on a sunny day
Batumi draws in holidaymakers from across Georgia in the summer months © David_Bokuchava / Getty Images

2. Batumi

Best city on the Black Sea

Batumi, Georgia’s second city, is the subtropical yin to Tbilisi’s yang, with its beachfront location, charming Old Town, seemingly endless seaside esplanade and an ever-growing number of glitzy skyscrapers – Georgia’s answer to Dubai, locals will tell you with a grin.

The city is built for pleasure, and functions as Georgia’s unofficial temporary capital during the height of summer, when most of Tbilisi’s locals decamp en masse to the Black Sea’s beaches for sunshine, cocktails and partying on the seafront. Georgia’s best beaches can be found to the south of the city, between Batumi and the Turkish border. Inland, the autonomous Adjaran region offers wonderful rafting and hiking, as well as the famously rickety cable car in Khulo.

A group of people are paddling a raft along a blue-green river in a canyon
Kutaisi makes a perfect base for exploring outdoor attractions including the Martvili Canyon © OlyaSolodenko / Getty Images

3. Kutaisi

Best base for exploring nature

Sleepy Kutaisi has found itself relegated to Georgia’s third-largest city in recent years as coastal Batumi booms. But this ancient town, which may once have been home to the golden fleece of Greek legend, has nonetheless managed to establish itself as the center of Georgia’s burgeoning tourist industry.

The nearby David the Builder Airport brings dozens of low-cost airline flights to Kutaisi from all over Europe each week, and there are dozens of hostels and a competitive short-term apartment rental market. Not only is Kutaisi bang in the center of the country (making it a more obvious base than either Tbilisi or Batumi), but it’s also surrounded by a wealth of sights, natural wonders and diverse attractions including the Martvili Canyon, Okatse Canyon, the Gelati Monastery and two astonishing relics of communism, the towns of Tskaltubo and Chiatura.

A monastery in Georgia sits atop a hill, with incredible snowy mountains in the background.
Georgia’s Tsminda Sameba Church makes for an incredible view © Alexey Krasilov/500px

4. Stepantsminda

Best for easy access to the High Caucasus

The extraordinary Georgian Military Highway takes you to the town of Stepantsminda (still commonly referred to by its Soviet-era name, Kazbegi), on the border with northern neighbor Russia. Though the epic journey here has lost some of its charm in recent years (it’s become a busy truck route for imports to Russia), there is no denying the incredible setting of the town, not least the iconic silhouette of the hilltop church Tsminda Sameba against the glacier of Mt Kazbek. It’s truly a sight that never ceases to amaze, despite its reproduction on a million postcards.

Planning tip: Head to Tsminda Sameba Church first thing in the morning or late in the afternoon when the light is better, and – crucially – when you’ll not have to share this magical spot with the crowds.

A remote mountain village is surrounded by steep hills and mountains, and there's a variety of different buildings including unique stone towers.
You can reach the remote village of Ushguli on a four-day hike from Mestia © bortnikau / Getty Images

5. Svaneti

Best mountain scenery

Georgia’s mountains are extraordinary and jaw-dropping wherever you encounter them. But if you want to see the best scenery in the country, there’s nowhere that can compete with the ancient and mysterious region of Svaneti. As well as Georgia’s highest peak, Shkhara (5068m; 16,627ft), which towers over the wonderful highland village of Ushguli, there is almost limitless potential for hiking here, not least the now well-known Mestia to Ushguli four-day hike, which allows you to sleep each night in a different village.

Planning tip: You can skip the taxing eight-hour drive to Svaneti from Tbilisi and get there in under an hour by taking one of the affordable daily flights to Mestia with Vanilla Sky.

A mountain escarpment with caves, tunnels and dwellings carved into the rock. There's a river valley in the background.
Vardzia is a magnificent cave monastery complex carved into a cliffside © Aleksandra Tokarz / Getty Images

6. Vardzia

Best monastery

In a country with more than its fair share of staggering monasteries and churches in perilously remote places, Vardzia is unquestionably the most magnificent of the lot. Its 13 floors are hewn into a cliffside and boast no fewer than 13 churches among its 400-plus rooms. The monastery’s jaw-dropping setting in a dramatic river valley makes it a real showstopper, and the undulating drive to get here from Akhaltsikhe is a wonderful treat to boot.

A wine shop has shelves filled with different varieties of Georgian wine; the walls behind the shelves are covered in graffiti-style writing.
Sighnaghi is located in Georgia’s premier wine-producing region © Kadagan / Shutterstock

7. Sighnaghi

Best place to enjoy Georgian wine

There’s magic in the air in Sighnaghi, and that’s not just down to its high altitude and the vertiginous views it affords into the vast valley below. This hilltop delight has more than a hint of Tuscany about it, with its terracotta roofs, cobbled streets and enviably slow pace of life.

Take a walk along the incredibly well-preserved city walls and visit the town museum, which has one of the best collections of paintings by Georgia’s most famous artist, Niko Pirosmani. Then settle in at one of Sighnaghi’s many wine bars to sample the result of the grape harvest in the country’s premier wine-producing region.

Planning tip: Call ahead to enjoy a delicious, organic lunch at the Lost Ridge Inn, just a few kilometers outside Sighnaghi.

An ancient monastery stands on a hilltop; two rivers meet in the valley below, and there's a town on the opposite riverbank.
Jvari Church holds deep religious significance for Georgians © Dmitrii Sakharov / Shutterstock

8. Mtskheta

Best place for a spiritual experience

So close to Tbilisi that the sprawling capital’s suburbs threaten to engulf it, Mtskheta enjoys a magical setting at the picturesque confluence of two rivers. It was also the location of one of Georgia’s most important historical events – its conversion to Christianity at the hands of St Nino in the 4th century. That vital event, which still forms a huge part of Georgian national identity, is memorialized in the Jvari Church, Georgia’s holy of holies, which commands terrific views over the town from its soaring hilltop location. Meanwhile, down in the town itself is the stunning 11th-century Svetiskhoveli Cathedral, an architectural gem of Georgia’s early Golden Age.

Planning tip: You only need a couple of hours to see Mtskheta, and its location just northwest of Tbilisi makes it an obvious pit stop on any journey up to Stepantsminda or west towards Kutaisi.

A light-blue pergola over a spring water fountain in the spa town of Borjomi in Georgia
Surrounded by forests, Borjomi is a spa town famous for its mineral water © Travel Faery / Getty Images

9. Borjomi

Best spa town

There’s more than a little touch of the Russian empire about this glorious 19th-century spa town tucked away amid the thickly wooded hills of the Lesser Caucasus. Borjomi’s salty-sour mineral water is Georgia’s most famous export and is instantly familiar to almost anyone from the former Soviet Union. However, the elegant resort town that produces it is worth a visit even if you’ve never heard of its eponymous sulfurous water.

As well as visiting the sprawling Borjomi Central Park ⁠(once you get past the tacky rides and children’s entertainments it opens up into a gorgeous riverside walk that brings you to a trio of delightful thermal pools), you can use the town as an excellent base for hiking in the Borjomi-Kharagauli National Park, and take the small gauge railway line to the nearby alpine resort of Bakuriani.

5 ways to seek out an outdoor adventure in Malaysia

On either of its beautiful halves, Malaysia beckons with exciting – even thrilling – adventures in nature.

On its peninsular side, a sprinkle of forest-clad tropical islands spills off the 2989 miles (4810km) of beach and mangrove-studded coasts that cut this eel-like strip of land out of the sea. Forming the spine of the peninsula, the little-visited Titiwangsa Mountains offer visitors relatively easy nature treks – as well as a range of offbeat trails to delight the most daring hikers.

Across the South China Sea on Borneo, the East Malaysia states of Sarawak and Sabah boast some of the world’s largest caves, extraordinary dive sites and Mt Kinabalu, the country’s tallest peak and a sacred place to the indigenous Kadazan-Dusun people.

Got your attention yet? Read on for some of the best ways to get up close to Malaysia’s natural wonders.

A man and a woman stand next to the gigantic root structure of a mengkundor tree in the rainforest of Malaysia
The Cherok Tokun Forest Reserve features a mengkundor tree with buttressed roots taller than the average human. Kit Yeng Chan for Lonely Planet

1. Hike to the heart of the rainforest

Off the peninsula’s northwestern coast, UNESCO-listed Penang Island attracts plenty of foodies and culture vultures – yet relatively few know about its more than 30 excellent hiking trails. Treks of all difficulties crisscross both 2733ft (833m) Penang Hill – a protected UNESCO Biosphere Reserve since late 2021­ – and Seberang Perai, the slice of the province on Malaysia’s mainland.

Only 3 hours from the futuristic capital Kuala Lumpur, the 1677-square-mile Taman Negara in Pahang state is the peninsula’s best-protected virgin rainforest. Indeed, at 130 million years old, the tropical forest is one of the oldest in the world – and a principal habitat for elusive and highly endangered Malayan tigers. You can get an easy orientation to this pristine ecosystem on the trail that gently climbs up to Bukit Teresek, or the one down toward the Tahan River and the Lata Berkoh waterfalls.

You need a guide for the two-day Keniam Trail, which includes an overnight stay in a cave and hops between settlements of Orang Asli (Peninsular Malaysia’s 18 aboriginal groups) in a long-tail boat on your return. Yet the park’s most challenging and soul-changing trek is the guided week-long, completely self-supported traverse from Kuala Tahan to 7175ft-high (2187m-high) Gunung Tahan – which aptly translates to “Mount Endurance” and is the highest in Peninsular Malaysia. With loads of luck, you may meet wild elephants, tapirs, sun bears…or at least their fresh footprints.

A hiker seen from above scaling a rock face on a mountain covered with tropical vegetation, with wispy clouds in the distance
The week-long trek to the peak of Gunung Tahan will thrill advanced adventurers. Kit Yeng Chan for Lonely Planet

If a week of camping in the wild is too much, head for the treetop walkway at Sungai Relau near Merapoh, one of Taman Negara’s two other access points (and a caving paradise). It’s a wonderful way to admire Gunung Tahan from afar.

Off the peninsula’s northwestern coast, UNESCO-listed Penang Island attracts plenty of foodies and culture vultures – yet relatively few know about its more than 30 excellent hiking trails. Treks of all difficulties crisscross both 2733ft (833m) Penang Hill – a protected UNESCO Biosphere Reserve since late 2021­ – and Seberang Perai, the slice of the province on Malaysia’s mainland.

Don’t miss the Cherok Tokun Forest Reserve near Bukit Mertajam, where you can hike to abandoned dams built during the colonial British era and take in a century-old mengkundor tree (Tetrameles nudiflora) whose extraordinary buttressed roots are taller than the average human.

For a scenic peek over the limestone karst separating Malaysia from the border with Thailand, drive up to the village of Kaki Bukit in often-overlooked Perlis state, and try the easy hike to the 997ft (304m) Wang Kelian Viewpoint. At sunset or sunrise, this vantage point offers a bird’s-eye view above rice fields, green mountains and a dazzling sea of clouds.

A person stands in the opening of a cave, as light penetrates to reveal sculptural calcite formations
The Deer Cave in Mulu National Park is one of the world’s largest cave openings. Kit Yeng Chan for Lonely Planet

2. Explore caves galore

Malaysia is a veritable spelunker’s paradise – and Sarawak is the place to get going underground. With a chamber that could fit 40 Boeing 747 airplanes, the Deer Cave in UNESCO-listed Gunung Mulu National Park in eastern Sarawak is the second-largest cave opening in the world. (The largest is Hang Son Doong in neighboring Vietnam.)

The Niah Caves in nearby Miri are where archeologists unearthed some of the oldest human remains ever found in Southeast Asia, including a Paleolithic human skull at least 40,000 years old (not to mention cave art and wooden boat-shaped coffins, too). In the town of Bau near the state capital of Kuching, two other caves, called Wind and Fairy, are smaller but no less beguiling thanks to their intricate boxwork: thin calcite fins that resemble honeycombs.

Back on the peninsula, the offbeat town of Gua Musang in southern Kelantan offers an adventurous climb up to a large cave nestled inside the limestone massif that towers above the old train station. And in the south of Pahang, the less-visited Gunung Senyum limestone massif near Temerloh is pierced by 19 caves, Gua Terang Bulan, with its tall ceiling and large chamber, being the most impressive.

Don’t forget that the Bukit Kepala Gajah massif – a central attraction in the cluster of historical sites scattered across Perak state’s Lenggong Valley, Malaysia’s fourth UNESCO Heritage Site – has plenty of caves such as Gua Kajang, Gua Teluk Kelawar and Gua Gunung Runtuh. The last is where archaeologists found the remains of 10,000-year-old “Perak Man”: the oldest, most complete human skeleton ever found in Southeast Asia.

Another easy and exciting cave is the 1213ft-long (370m-long) Gua Kelam in Perlis, in the northern reaches of the peninsula. Piercing the bottom of a hill, it’s equipped with a suspension bridge and atmospheric lights, and evokes the era when miners scoured its reaches for iron ore. Once in Perlis, check out the village of Kodiang and the challenging rock climbing on the pinnacles and craggy limestone rock face of Bukit Mok Cun. The formation lies on the border with Kedah state, near the Kodiang station on the main railway line.

A scuba diver takes a photo of brightly colored corals
The scuba diving in Malaysia is among the best in the world. Shutterstock

3. Dive into Malaysia’s turquoise waters

No less an authority than legendary French oceanographer Jacques Cousteau ranked the marine life of Sipadan, a small volcanic island off Semporna in the southeast of Sabah, among the best in the world. Its surrounding islets of Mabul, Kapalai and Bohey Dulang all have equally gin-clear water, white beaches and endless schools of tropical fish.

Snorkeling and diving are permitted at Sarawak’s first marine park, which was established in 1999 to protect four species of endangered turtle. The park consists of the coastline and waters around four islands: the two Pulau Satang, known as besar (big) and kecil (small); and the two Pulau Talang-Talang, also besar and kecil. Advanced divers can explore four wrecks off Kuching, two of them Japanese World War II warships sunk by the Dutch in the days after the attacks on Pearl Harbor in Hawaii.

The peninsula might be less known for its underwater wonders than Sabah and Sarawak. Yet off its East Coast, beautiful islands like diving-focused Pulau Tenggol are ripe with sites and a corridor for whale-shark passage. Further north, the two Perhentian Islands are more touristy but also one of the least expensive places in the world to get a scuba certification.

From the port at mainland Mersing, ferries depart for some of the other 64 lesser-known and idyllic islands.  The eastern side of Tioman Island, off Juara Beach, faces the open ocean and is best for encounters with big fish. Pulau Besar has several resorts, and has been seen regularly on the reality TV program Robinson. Tiny Pulau Rawa has just one resort and a perfect white-powder beach, while Pulau Sibu, closest to the mainland, is a cluster of four islets ringed by walls of offshore coral. Further away, the gorgeous lagoons and offshore pools of secluded Pulau Aur beckon keen swimmers, while the hat-shaped Pulau Tinggi, with the archipelago’s tallest hill, offers even more hours of blissful hiking and snorkeling.

People in an orange raft navigate white-water rapids in Kuala Kubu Baru, Selangor, Malaysia
Malaysia’s fast-flowing rivers offer fabulous rafting opportunities. Shutterstock

4. Get your adrenaline pumping by rafting or surfing on the water

Beyond diving, Malaysia is excellent for rafting and other water sports. Just south of Perak’s capital Ipoh, you can set out on Grade-1, -2, or -3 white-water rafting excursions on the Kampar River, near the tiny village of Gopeng. You can also abseil off waterfalls, and explore even more caves. Don’t miss the 2-mile-long Gua Tempurung, one of the peninsula’s longest caverns.

Not far away in neighboring Kedah state, the Sedim River offers more sloshing fun, camping and a treetop walk. In Sabah, beginners can start on the Kiulu River and then take on the much more challenging Grade-3 and Grade-4 waters of the Padas River.

With so much coastline, it would be odd not to find at least one suitable spot for surfing – which Malaysians do best at Cherating Bay just north of Kuantan, on the peninsula’s central East Coast. Yet there are surfable waves all along this coast, from Johor to Kelantan states. The best time to catch them is during the northeast monsoon season from October to March.

Intrepid surfers can keep driving further north along the largely empty coast of Terengganu state to such lesser-known beach breaks as Teluk Kalong, near Kijal, and Batu Buruk beach, in state capital Kuala Terengganu.

An aerial soot of boats in the clear blue waters off of Pulau Lang Tengah Island, with docks off a white-sand beach and a slope covered in green palm trees, Malaysia
Off the eastern coast of Peninsular Malaysia, Pulau Lang Tengah promises sheer beach bliss. Alejandro Medina/Shutterstock

5. After all that exertion, relax on a perfect beach

Ever-popular Langkawi is not just a geopark featuring stunning, millennial rock formations: it’s also one of the country’s top beach destinations. And with more than 10 different coves and a choice of accommodation ranging from some of Asia’s best resorts to backpacker hostels, Langkawi satisfies every taste and budget.

Further down the peninsula’s West Coast, offbeat Pangkor Island blends soft, curvy beaches with chances to experience the local Malay and Chinese fishing village culture, including visits to boat-making workshops.

For a final dose of pure tuck-your-toes-in-the-sand bliss, head back to the East Coast resort islands of Lang Tengah and Redang, which feel like you stepped onto some of the best atolls in the Maldives.

10 things you need to know before visiting Transylvania

Driven by vampire lore and mystery appeal, Transylvania has become Romania’s most popular region for travelers. But legends aside, this magical land of castles, medieval bastions and old-world villages packs in a lot of charm.

A paradise for nature and adventure seekers, the vast wilderness of the Carpathian Mountains preserves some of the last virgin forests in Europe and a simpler way of life. Here are the things you need to know before you explore “the land beyond the forest” – the literal translation of Transylvania’s medieval name.

Spectacular view over Bran Castle near Brasov, Transylvania.
Spectacular view over Bran Castle near Brasov, Transylvania.

1. Dracula is just a myth, or is it?

Transylvania is famous for its vampire legends and bloodthirsty Count Dracula, popularised by Bram Stoker’s 1897 fantasy novel. But the Vlad Ţepeş that inspired the book was very real – referred to throughout history as “Vlad the Impaler” for his agonizing method of empaling his enemies on long spikes.

In fact, the 15th-century prince of Wallachia never actually lived at clifftop Bran Castle – popularly known as Dracula’s Castle and attracting close to one million visitors per year. Nor did Stoker himself ever set foot in Transylvania.

But the castle is still a must-visit on any Transylvania trip. Try to come during the off-season, to avoid long lines. Better yet, arrange a private tour at night without the crowds, when the atmosphere is more suitably eerie for a fortress famed for spooky mystery.

2. Transylvania has castles in abundance

If you find Bran Castle too crowded, there are many more castles to keep you busy in Transylvania. Just 50km (31 miles) south of Bran, the mountain resort of Sinaia has the country’s most resplendent castle – Peleș Castle, picked by King Carol I of Romania as a summer residence in 1875 due to its magnificent Bucegi Mountains backdrop. The flamboyant neo-Renaissance architecture honors the family’s German heritage.

A 20-minute train ride to Bușteni will take you to Cantacuzino Castle, a neo-Romanian castle built on the orders of Prince Gheorghe Grigore Cantacuzino, prime minister of Romania in the late 18th and early 19th centuries. Set on the premises of a former hunting lodge, this was the filming location for the Nevermore Academy in Tim Burton’s ultra-popular Addams Family spin-off, Wednesday, on Netflix.

View over the rooftops of Brasov in Transylvania, with the Black Church catching the sun.
View over the rooftops of Brasov in Transylvania, with the Black Church catching the sun.

3. Medieval towns are everywhere

Romania’s medieval past bursts to life across Transylvania. Start by exploring the Siebenbürgen, the “seven citadels” built by Saxon merchants brought in to protect the region from invading Turks and Tatars in the 12th and 13th centuries.

One of the best-preserved fortress towns, Brașov is picture-perfect with its tall Gothic spires and orange-hued rooftops. Conveniently close to the Poiana Brașov ski resort, it’s the most visited destination in Romania, and a brand-new international airport was inaugurated in 2023, providing easy access. Just outside Brașov at the foot of Mount Tâmpa – accessible on foot or by cable car – a Hollywood-like white-lettered sign glistens on the horizon.

Head to storybook Sighișoara to explore the last inhabited medieval fortress in Europe and its 14th-century clock tower, as well as the rainbow-colored buildings of Sighișoara’s UNESCO-listed old town. A former European Capital of Culture, nearby Sibiu charms with its peculiar “houses with eyes” – buildings of Saxon heritage, graced with eyelid-shaped windows on their rooftops.

4. Transylvania is a multi-ethnic, multi-faith region

Set in a verdant landscape, small towns and villages settled hundreds of years ago preserve a form of multiculturalism specific to Transylvania. Alongside Saxon settlers with their Germanic influences, Transylvania has a large Hungarian community dating back to the time of the Kingdom of Hungary and the Austro-Hungarian Empire.

Big cities such as Cluj-Napoca and Târgu Mureș stand testament to an enduring convergence of cultures. Similarly, while most of Romania is Christian-Orthodox, churches of other denominations abound, hosting congregations speaking multiple languages.

A snowy view over village houses at Bran, Transylvania, Romania.
A snowy view over village houses at Bran, Transylvania, Romania.

5. Authentic Transylvania endures in the villages

To get a real feel for the Transylvanian idyll, head to the villages and enjoy some slow travel. Seven Transylvanian villages are inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list because of their fortified churches – six of them Saxon and one Székely – and traditional crafts are still practiced, with authentic Saxon houses wonderfully restored in bright colors.

While the German-speaking population of Romania has declined since the collapse of Communism in 1989, conservation efforts and ecotourism have flourished in this former Saxon heartland. Plan a stay in a traditional guesthouse in Biertan or Viscri, to wake up to the sound of bird song and the smell of wood smoke wafting through the crisp morning air. Staying at Casa Eva Wagner in Biertan, the Fortified Church of Biertan, the largest of its kind, is in full view as you soak in an alfresco hot tub.

6. Beware Transylvania’s ever-present bears

The Carpathian Mountains are home to a huge variety of wildlife, from wolves and lynxes to chamois antelopes. The mountains also provide a home for Europe’s largest population of brown bears – some 8000 of them, a number that has significantly increased.

Bear-spotting is exciting and sightings are almost guaranteed when traveling on mountain roads, but staying alert is key. In recent years, bears have started migrating out of their natural habitats, descending into mountain resorts and attacking farm livestock. It’s not uncommon to receive warning R0-ALERT text messages or see posters at hotels warning about the presence of bears while traveling in the region.

Many tourists make the mistake of feeding bears, which raises the risk of dangerous encounters. After a fatal bear attack, Romania introduced a bear control law in 2024 to reduce the growing bear population. Stay safe by making noise when moving through woodland areas, and stay clear of bears with cubs.

To see bears safely, visit the Libearty Bear Sanctuary in Zărnești, where 100 brown bears have been rescued from harsh living conditions in captivity, and now roam free in 69 hectares (170.5 acres) of coniferous forests.

The winding path of the Transfagarasan mountain road, Romania, in the sunshine.
The winding path of the Transfagarasan mountain road, Romania, in the sunshine.

7. Romania offers some amazing road trips

Dubbed the best drive in the world by the motor show Top Gear, the Transfăgărășan road is a thrilling bucket list experience. Connecting Transylvania with historic Wallachia, and winding up and over the highest peaks of the Făgăraş Mountains, the journey peaks at 2034m (6673ft) near the glacier lake of Bâlea with its cascading waterfall. En route, you can spot the rugged ruins of Poienari Citadel, the real residence of Vlad the Impaler.

This lofty highway was constructed in the 1970s as a response to the 1968 invasion of Czechoslovakia by the Soviet Union. Nicolae Ceaușescu wanted a safe route across the mountains for his troops should the same happen in Romania, but the road is only usable by traffic in summer. Come from mid-June to the end of October, and check the road is open before you head into the mountains, as sporting events and bad weather can close the route temporarily.

8. Be ready to be stuffed with grub by locals

You wouldn’t be in Romania if you didn’t feel open to eating more than you planned. Rural hospitality generally works on the premise that ‘more is more’, and in Transylvania, the food and drinks are particularly enticing.

Local specialties include rose hip jam and the rich tarragon soups that are a specialty of the area, typically served with a shot of pungent pălincă – a plum brandy containing between 40 and 50% alcohol – to start things off. To experience Transylvanian hospitality at its finest, set aside a few days to stay at a family guesthouse that grows its own food, where you can enjoy wholesome country fare in abundance.

Overview of a road winding through a lush green valley in Transylvania.
Overview of a road winding through a lush green valley in Transylvania.

9. Transylvania is a great place to hike

For active immersion into bucolic village life, the bedrock of the Romanian experience, try trekking the new long-distance Via Transilvanica trail, crossing seven of Romania’s historical regions. Inaugurated in October 2022, the route is already a Europa Nostra award winner for its pioneering role in promoting sustainable local development and heritage protection. Following this 1420km-long hiking, cycling and horseback riding trail is like stepping back in time into rural communities that have barely changed in generations.

Passing by a string of fascinating UNESCO World Heritage Sites, the “path that unites” is the most complete journey you can take into the forests and lush meadows of Transylvania and beyond. Along the way, you’ll meet and lodge with villagers who grow their own food, travel in horse-drawn carts and harvest hay to dry in the sunshine, as they have for centuries.

10. You can stay in a king’s retreat

Unexpectedly, Transylvania is a favorite destination for King Charles III. The English monarch has been making regular visits to Transylvania since 1998. As most European royal families are distantly related, it turns out Vlad The Impaler is also his ancestor!

Fascinated by the region’s unaltered beauty, King Charles is heavily involved in the conservation of Transylvania’s rural heritage, restoring a number of Saxon farmhouses that visitors can book for overnight stays, including a private nature retreat in the Zalán Valley just north of Brașov, built in the 17th century and restored in authentic Transylvanian style.

The King’s House in Viscri is a testament to the monarch’s passion for traditional architecture, sustainable agriculture and conserving biodiversity. Open to the public between April and October, it hosts exhibits and training sessions promoting local craftsmanship.

Top 10 things to do in Paris in spring

Paris is beautiful to explore any season. But spring is the time to soak up that special ‘April in Paris’ charm that Sinatra sung about so well: chestnut groves blossom, city parks burst into flower, plane trees sprout foliage over boulevards, and cafe terraces buzz with new-found energy as Parisians head outdoors to enjoy spring’s soft warm days.

Editor’s note: During COVID-19 there are restrictions on travel and opening hours may vary. Check the latest guidance in France before planning a trip, and always follow local health advice.

Here are our top 10 things to do in Paris in spring.

Eiffel Tower

No Parisian landmark embraces springtime blue skies as enthusiastically as the Eiffel Tower – its spire is frequently half-lost in fog in winter. On clear spring days, the 324m-tall tower is striking from any angle. And with glass flooring on the 1st floor – peer down at Paris beneath your feet – views are even sharper.

For a panorama of the city from the tower, lunch at 58 Tour Eiffel or Michelin-starred Le Jules Verne. For ringside views of the icon and its webbed ironwork imprinted on blue sky, consider Les Ombres or the more casual Café Branly.

The Islands

Romance oozes out of every historic nook and cranny of Île St-Louis and Île de la Cité, both perfect for a springtime stroll. These two islands on the Seine have quaint car-free streets full of old-world boutiques. Start on a high with the bestial rooftop of Cathédrale Notre Dame, then relax on a bench beneath pink cherry blossoms in the Seine-side garden of Square Jean XXIII.

The stained glass windows inside Notre Dame and at nearby Sainte-Chapelle are dazzling at this time of year when the sunlight streams in. Cool down afterwards with une glace (an ice cream) from Paris’ most famous ice cream maker, Berthillon.

Manicured garden at Jardin du Luxembourg in the Paris 6th district.
The gardens in Jardin du Luxembourg are beautiful in spring. Daniele Schneider / Getty Images

Jardin du Luxembourg

Lounging on a sage-green deckchair in this mythical city park is a Parisian spring essential. Chasing a vintage wooden sail boat around the park’s octagonal Grand Bassin pond is brilliant fun – kids have done this since the 1920s. Puppet shows entertain at the Théâtre du Luxembourg and art exhibitions take place at the Musée du Luxembourg, both in the park.

Musée Rodin

Spring marries perfectly with the Musée Rodin, one of Paris’ loveliest art museums in the former studio and showroom of sculptor and painter Auguste Rodin. Sculptures inside the 18th-century mansion are world-class (don’t miss Rodin’s L’Eternel Printemps (Eternal Spring) and The Kiss, both sculptures of two lovers embracing) but the museum gardens are most memorable. Roses mingle with The Thinker and other iconic works, while wooden sun lounges offer peaceful contemplation between springtime blossoms.

Other art museums with gorgeous gardens are Musée du Quai Branly; the Musée de l’Orangerie in the fashionable Jardin des Tuileries; and the Musée Marmottan-Monet, home to the world’s largest collection of Monet’s works, overlooking the delightfully local Jardin du Ranelagh.

Nuit des Musées

The annual Nuit des Musées in May is a prime opportunity to revel in Paris’ second-to-none portfolio of museums and monuments: sights stay open late and admission is free.

Two girls drinking coffee and chatting at a Parisian street cafe.
The streets come alive in spring, the perfect time to enjoy cafe culture. Encrier / Getty Images

Cafe culture

Watch the world go by over un café (a coffee) or early evening apéro (pre-meal drink) on one of the city’s zillions of cafe pavement terraces – there is no finer time of year to indulge in Parisian cafe culture than spring as outdoor heaters are put away and tables multiply.

Traditional neighbourhood cafes with sunny terraces and bistro chairs meticulously arranged in tight rows include Le Petit Fer à Cheval and Café Charlot in Le Marais neighbourhood; Le Progrès, loaded with ambience in Montmartre; Café Saint Régis, footsteps from Notre Dame; and Café La Palette where art dealers and fashionistas congregate on the Left Bank. At dusk place du Marché Ste-Catherine is a pretty cafe-laced square to sit beneath fairy lights and sip an apéro.

Chez Prune is the cafe-bar that put Canal St-Martin on the map. Café Marly overlooks the Louvre’s inner courtyard, while homemade ginger lemonade and hibiscus flower cordial make L’Ebouillanté, footsteps from the Seine, an artsy favourite.

Canal Saint Martin in Paris.
Enjoy cycling or boating on the Canal St. Martin. TkKurikawa / Getty Images

Canal St-Martin

The tranquil, 4.5km-long Canal St-Martin in northeastern Paris was surely created with sunny spring days in mind – reflections on the water are superbly photogenic and a stroll or cycle along the canal’s leafy towpaths or between trendy boutiques is like a scene straight out of a film. Watch canal boats pass through locks and beneath vintage swing bridges that pivot 90 degrees when boats approach.

Al fresco dining

Spring in Paris is about sitting outside and feasting on the city’s extraordinarily varied cuisine. Gastronomic restaurants rarely have outdoor seating, but budget and midrange places do.

Hot spots near the Eiffel Tower – popular among the local office crowd for a brasserie lunch in the midday sun – are La Mascotte and Upper Crèmerie. In Le Marais, a trendsetting crowd lunches in the hidden courtyard of Derrière, while the terrace at Mini Palais is magnifique for soaking up the old-world atmosphere of art nouveau Paris. Beloved Left Bank addresses include casual Le Square and Yves Camdeborde’s raved-about gourmet bistro Le Comptoir du Relais. Chez Nathalie is a sweet spot in the 13th arrondissement to dine on modern French cuisine.

Paris’ open-air street markets, such as Marché Bastille, burst with fresh seasonal produce at this time of year and are a treat to explore and to pick up goods for a park picnic.

Panorama of a swan in the lake in front of Chateau de Versailles.
The gardens at Versailles in the spring only add to the opulence of the Château. Hannah-Mac / Getty Images

Château de Versailles

Late spring ushers in the start of Les Grandes Eaux Musicales (Musical Fountain Show) in the magnificent gardens of Château de Versailles, France’s most colossal palace is very much in a class of its own when it comes to over-the-top opulence. Its seasonal ‘dancing water’ fountain displays – set to music composed by baroque- and classical-era composers – are unique, magical and a highlight of any day trip from central Paris to Versailles.

Street entertainment

Spring raises the curtain on Paris’ fantastic gaggle of clowns, mime artists, living statues, acrobats, inline skaters, musicians and other street entertainers. Best spots to catch a fun, free show outside include Pont St-Louis near Cathédrale Notre Dame, place du Tertre in Montmartre, place Georges Pompidou in front of the Centre Pompidou, and place Joachim du Bellay by the Fontaine des Innocents in the 1st arrondissement.

You might also like:
The first thing you should do in Europe’s top destinations
How to spend a perfect weekend in Paris
Where to stay in Paris: which arrondissement is right for you?

This article was first published in June 2015 and updated February 2021

How to hike the Jordan Trail, a cross-country trek in the Middle East

Just as Spain has the Camino and the United States has the Appalachian Trail, so too Jordan has the Jordan Trail.

This epic long-distance path that threads its way through the country’s most sublime landscapes, and in some way, also works as a journey into the national soul.

Its very existence is remarkable. The Jordan Trail is in a part of the world sadly beset by conflict: where borders are shut and the land is divided by concrete and checkpoints – where roaming freely might seem like an impossibility under the surveillance of so many watchtowers. Jordan itself, however, endures as a pocket of peace. Those travelers who tread its greatest trail earn a perspective on the Middle East you would never get just by watching the news.

The Jordan Trail is one of the best regions to visit next year. See our full list of Best in Travel 2025 winners.

You can find deep tranquillity in sandstone canyons silent but for the gurgle of springs. You might take a midday nap in the shade of olive groves – or amble along Roman cobbles and beneath the ramparts of Crusader castles and feel the ancient past close at hand. Hiking Jordan’s wide open spaces you get a precious sense of liberty – on foot, you meet locals more readily than any passenger aboard an air-conditioned coach.

There is also an ethos behind this trail. It was conceived 10 years ago as a social enterprise where communities help accommodate and feed hikers along the way. Part of the appeal is being guided by locals: stopping by Bedouin tents, pausing for cups of tea boiled on campfires. Another part is in sharing the path with others – shepherds or nomads on the move – as it winds its way from the waves of the Red Sea to the orchards along the Syrian border.

Hikers follow a track in a hilly desert landscape
The Jordan Trail spans the full length of the country from Umm Qais to the Red Sea at Aqaba © Ali Barqawi Studios

Step 1: Which part should I hike?

The Jordan Trail is a serious undertaking – to hike its total 675km (420 mile) extent you should allow around 40 days (just like another famous wanderer of the Middle Eastern desert). Every so often the Jordan Trail organization runs guided “thru-hikes” for anyone looking to complete its length in one go – check the official website to see if any are planned.

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Many choose to take on shorter stages. If you’re sensitive to the heat, the northernmost stretch is the coolest, running 80km (50 miles) from the colonnades of ancient Gadara through shadowy forests of oak and pistacchio to reach the mediaeval castle at Ajloun. For adventurers, the section parallel to the Dead Sea is probably the craggiest, crossing the deep-gouged canyon of Wadi Mujib. The 80 km (50 miles) between the Dana Biosphere Reserve and Petra is one of the most dramatic and most popular parts of the Jordan Trail, with the path burrowing through remote gorges before approaching the ancient rock-hewn city of the Nabateans.

What marks out the Jordan Trail is the diversity of landscapes and historical sites encountered along the way – on two feet you can watch world-famous sites, such as Petra and Wadi Rum, slowly emerge from the heat haze.

Step 2: When should I go?

It’s wise to avoid the northern hemisphere summer on the Jordan Trail – furnace-like heat means walking in desert environments like Wadi Rum can be dangerous. November to February is a good time to embark on the southern end of the trail, while the window stretches a little longer the further north you go: March and April see wildflowers and blossoms brighten the rolling northern hills.

A hiking guide prepares a pot of tea during a trek
Experienced hikers could take on the Jordan Trail solo but it’s sensible to trek with a registered guide © Justin Foulkes / Lonely Planet

Step 3: Should I go it alone, or go with a guide?

The Jordan Trail comes with caveats. It is, in large part, not waymarked or signposted in any form. For significant sections it is also distant from food, accommodation, help and – most critically – water. Some easier bits, such as the 13km-stretch (8 mile) from Little Petra to Petra can be tackled independently by confident hikers. For the rest, going solo entails significant backcountry experience, employing expedition-level planning and navigating using GPS files sourced from the Jordan Trail website. Be conscious that the route often strays from touristic centers – so basic Arabic is helpful as English may not be spoken.

For most people, the most sensible way to embark on a Jordan Trail hike is to join one of the licensed tour operators currently running itineraries, or else to contact one of the registered guides – directories of both can be found on the official website. As well as blazing the trail, guides should be able to organize food and wild camps in remote spots (often as simple as a barbeque dinner and a mattress pitched under the stars). They’ll also be able to advise on the level of fitness required (for the most part, you’ll need to be of a moderate to high level). It’s very likely they’ll be able to unlock the stories of the land underfoot, providing insight as well as company over the many parched miles.

Two hikers follow a dirt trail across a desert landscape
Pack good boots and sun cream, and carry plenty of water at all times © Justin Foulkes / Lonely Planet

Step 4: What should I pack?

You’ll need the obvious essentials – strong boots and sun cream – plus warm layers for surprisingly cold desert nights. Rainfall (and even snowfall) is not unknown in winter in certain spots, so you may also need a waterproof shell. Above all else you will need water – allow as much as 5L per person per day for drinking, ideally kept in a large bladder. Be aware that this, combined with water needed for cooking, can sometimes make for a very heavy pack. Never set out without knowing where you can top up your water supply.

Step 5: Safety precautions

Jordan has been a safe and popular holiday destination for decades and – with the exception of a thin strip along the Syrian border – there is no part of the country to which entities like the British Foreign Office or US Department of State currently advise against travel. A 2024 drone attack on US troops took place at a remote base close to the Iraqi border – this location was far from tourist centers and indeed far from the Jordan Trail. Crime levels are low in Jordan, and locals are, as a rule, extraordinarily friendly and welcoming.

Take some safety precautions on the trail: be cautious of wadis that can quickly become dangerous during flash floods, especially in winter, and always carry a phone with the telephone number of Jordan’s Tourist Police should you run into any trouble (117777).

Above all, remember this is a path on which to forget your worries, and enjoy the freedom of roaming across wadi and desert, forest and plain.

8 things to do in Northwest Spain – beyond hiking the Camino de Santiago

On a cliffside in Fisterra, Spain, I sipped orujo de hierbas (herbal brandy) while victorious hikers rested on rocks overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. Yet unlike those tourists with battered clothes and stamped Pilgrim Passports, I hadn’t arrived at Spain’s Costa da Morte by foot. Rather, I was road-tripping across the Camino de Santiago, one of the world’s most popular pilgrimage routes. 

While the Camino splinters into multiple paths with various starting points, the Camino Frances ranks as the most popular track. It intersects with the Spanish regions of Galicia and Castilla y León, which widely appeal to hikers in search of spiritual clarity, a sense of accomplishment, or, quite simply, a nice, long walk. 

Northwest Spain, however, is far more than its trails. The Way of St. James pairs the landscapes of Green Spain with Gothic cathedrals, family-run wineries and longstanding traditions that range from the crafty to the spooky. Here, you’ll find eight reasons why Galicia and Castilla y León warrant a pilgrimage in their own right — with or without your hiking boots. 

1. Chase waterfalls en route to the end of the world

While the Camino technically ends in Santiago de Compostela, many pilgrims extend their journeys further west to Muxía and Fisterra, fittingly nicknamed “the end of the world” as one of mainland Spain’s westernmost points. Because I was traveling by car, I visited both locations in one scenic day, breaking up the drive with a stop at the Ézaro waterfall. The peaceful landscape counts as Europe’s only river to meet the ocean via waterfall.

Also leading to the world’s end is the quaint fishing town of Muros, where curious dolphins frequently surface in the harbor. 

Planning tip: Access to the waterfall is both free and straightforward; there’s a parking lot with a boardwalk that leads to Ézaro, as well as bathrooms, food stands and kiosks to stamp your pilgrim passport. A little ways away, the Mirador de Ézaro overlooks the coastline, with sweeping vistas that demonstrate where, exactly, the river meets the sea. 

A breathtaking panoramic view of the Miño River flowing through the lush green vineyards of Ribeira Sacra in Chantada, Galicia, Spain
Take a boat trip through the wineries of the Ribeira Sacra. Martin Boujon Zappino/Shutterstock

2. Take a boat trip to the wine region of Ribeira Sacra 

For an experience that’s truly off the beaten path, head to the Ribeira Sacra: a dramatic wine landscape known for the production of Mencía. Divided by a series of rivers, the Ribeira Sacra’s steep mountains contain sloping vineyards that are best explored by boat. 

I took a boat tour that drifted along the Miño River before stopping at a riverfront wine cellar. There, I savored a lunch of chestnut jamón, Galician-style empanadas, and, of course, plenty of red wine. Some boat tours serve wine onboard, while others – particularly those near the Sil Canyon – beckon to birdwatchers with peregrine falcons and the occasional golden eagle.

Planning tip: Pricing and hours for boat experiences depend on your length of visit and group size; my group tour cost roughly €42 Euros (US$45) and spanned two and a half hours — the perfect amount of time for a leisurely lunch and sightseeing. Even if you’re visiting the Ribeira Sacra by car, you should pre-book your tasting. Some wineries accommodate walk-ins, but depending on the winery’s size, you’re never guaranteed a seat without a reservation. 

3. Tour an 18th-century palace-turned-winery 

If you prefer your wineries on land, you’ll find one of the most memorable tasting experiences in Castilla y León’s El Bierzo wine region. Palacio de Canedo, an 18th-century palace, functions as a hotel, restaurant and winery, specializing in red Mencía and white Godello wines, with more than 30 hectares (74 acres) of vineyards. 

Before you pick up your fork, hop aboard the property’s open-air trolley and embark on something of a wine safari. As you weave between the vines, you’ll feel the terrain firsthand – and whet your appetite for a wine-paired tasting menu. Don’t leave El Bierzo without trying botillo, a regional meat specialty.

Planning tip: A tour on Palacio de Canedo’s “Carroviñas” costs between €48 and €60 (US$52-65) for two people and, like most attractions along the Camino, is best reserved prior to your arrival. If you’re planning to eat, the restaurant tends to fill up, so make your reservation in advance. 

Burgos Cathedral with people and tourists walking in the square next to the Cathedral of Saint Mary, in Burgos, Spain
Relax and people watch outside the stunning Burgos Cathedral. Shutterstock

4. Go city-hopping between Burgos and León 

It’s easy to mistake the Camino de Santiago for a quiet respite that’s all about nature. The trail certainly overlaps with some of Spain’s most pristine scenery, but it also passes through lively cities brimming with Gothic architecture and tapas bars. The equally spectacular – yet very different – cathedrals in Burgos and León anchor large plazas, perfect for sightseeing and people-watching in tandem. In León’s San Isidoro Museum, you’ll also find a gilded, bejeweled chalice rumored to be the Holy Grail. 

If you’re not tired from your hike – or if you, like me, are following the Camino’s shell-engraved footpaths insofar as they guide you to dinner – don’t hesitate to wander. Whether you stroll along the riverbank in Burgos or embark on a tapas crawl in León’s Barrio Húmedo (try Rúa 11)end your outing with a generous pour of vermouth. I ordered a glass steps from Burgos’ cathedral at Vermuteria Victoria, which also serves its trademark spirit in the form of vermouth-fried cod.

Planning tip: Situated roughly two hours apart, Burgos and León warrant at least one day each. Hotels abound in each city’s old town, though neither destination is particularly huge. Regardless of where you stay, you’ll never be too far from your chosen activity. 

5. Play cheesemonger for the day 

Less than two miles from the Camino’s path, Ecoagroturismo Arqueizal pairs tours of traditional farmhouses with lessons in cheesemaking. While visiting the farm, I turned milk into cow cheese, stirring, straining, and forming it by hand. This activity not only supplied me with a spread for the next morning’s pan gallego (traditional bread), but also grounded me in rural Galician life. 

Alternatively, if you prefer sweet to savory, head west to the “living honey museum,” Enredo do Abelleiro. For a few euros, you’ll don a beekeeping suit and witness the intricacies of worker bees directly from their hive. In between these two sites, the women-run Milhulloa Coop directly overlaps with the Camino Frances and teaches tourists how to make natural cosmetics of their choosing. 

Planning tip: If you’re not hiking, you’ll need a car to reach any of the above locations, all of which are an hour or less from Santiago de Compostela. Make sure to book any hands-on activities or tours in advance, whether you want to make toothpaste or cheese. If you’re looking to simply shop for a jar of fresh honey or shampoo, however, you can stop by either the Milhulloa Coop or Enredo do Abelleiro according to their hours listed online. 

Episcopal Palace of Astorga by architect Antoni Gaudi.
Enjoy Gaudí’s work without the crowds at the Palacio de Gaudí in Astorga. Shutterstock

6. Marvel at Gaudi’s designs and eat your fill of chocolate

Barcelona’s Sagrada Familia may be under construction until 2026, but Astorga’s Palacio de Gaudí can help fill that architectural void. Antoni Gaudí started work on the palace in 1988, and his trademark style characterizes the building’s airy, whimsical interior and curved, Neo-Gothic facade. Outside the palace’s grounds, however, chocolate is akin to the town’s architect, with a presence in Astorga that dates back to the 1600s. For tourists with a sweet tooth – or pilgrims in search of a sugar rush – tour the museum of chocolate. Then, sip thick, Spanish-style hot chocolate from La Cepedana, the city’s most historic chocolatier.

Planning tip: Astorga condenses the best of a Spanish city – world-class architecture, traditional dishes like Casa Maragata’s cocido maragato, and one-of-a-kind pastries in La Flor y Nata’s merles – into a charming, walkable town. Even if you’ve rented a car, you likely won’t need it to explore Astorga as most activities are centrally located. 

7. Step back in time at a 7th-century forge 

As one of Spain’s oldest blacksmiths, Ponferrada’s Herrería de Compludo transports visitors to the 7th century with technology that’s withstood the test of time. After a short trail hike to the forge’s stone building, I met fourth-generation blacksmith, Manuel Sanchez, who demonstrated his family’s hydraulic system; operations depend on a water wheel, which helps fuel the fire. In a matter of minutes, Sanchez made and engraved a sharp iron tool over that crackling flame. What better indicator of medieval engineering’s longevity? 

Planning tip: The trail hike begins in the parking lot and requires a few minutes of walking over mostly flat terrain. However, the route isn’t paved, and parts of the ground are slightly rocky, so good shoes and a sunny day make for an ideal visit. The blacksmith opens at set times in both the morning and afternoon, though the forge’s website recommends booking your visit in advance. At the very least, double-check the forge’s hours before driving, as they’re subject to change. 

A bowl of traditional Galician queimada punch set alight in a Spanish restaurant
Plan ahead and book a traditional queimada ceremony in Galicia. Luis Diaz Devesa/Getty Images

8. Boost your spirits with queimada 

If a visit to the forge isn’t fiery enough, up the ante with a ceremonial queimada: a flaming alcoholic beverage that combines orujo, coffee beans, citrus peels, and sugar. Intended to dissuade sinister spirits, the punch catches fire while a spell is recited. Tourists can book queimada shows and tastings, though many of Galicia’s bars, hotels, and restaurants also offer the option.

While the tradition is rumored to have Celtic roots, Galicians still make queimada for June’s “Witches Night,” as well as select celebrations and family gatherings. Given Northwest Spain’s reputation for rainfall, you need a way to stay warm, after all.

Planning tip: I participated in my first queimada at the restaurant of Pazo Santa Maria. As the ritual requires a clay pot and matching set of cups, it’s not an experience the hotel – or most Galician restaurants – readily advertises on the menu, so my group asked about partaking before we even arrived. To guarantee your own queimada, book a specific experience online or inquire with your restaurant when making a reservation.

How to travel the Camino by car

Rent a car: If you’re not doing the Camino by foot, a car is a must-have. You can rent a vehicle in any of the trail’s major cities, many of which also have airports. You’ll likely find the most options for car rentals in Madrid, which sits less than three hours from Burgos. Directly on the trail, you can alternatively rent a vehicle in Santiago de Compostela, Burgos, and León. 

Try a bus tour: If you’d rather not drive yourself, base yourself at the Camino’s end in Santiago de Compostela, and choose from a variety of bus tours that visit Fisterra, Ézaro, and Muxía. You can also rent a car for day trips from Santiago to less-trafficked Galician sites, none of which are too far from the city. 

When to go: As for when to take your getaway, plan for fall or spring. While summer has the best weather, it’s also the Camino’s busiest time; pilgrims tend to hike between April and October. The shoulder seasons, therefore, come with limited crowds and still-decent sunshine, though you’ll always want to pack a raincoat and extra layers.

A first-time guide to Antigua & Barbuda

Ever dreamed of finding yourself a new beach for every day of the year? Well that’s exactly what’s on offer in the beautiful twin-island nation of Antigua and Barbuda, which famously boasts 365 separate strands.

They’re the perfect setting for sipping Antiguan rum punch under thatch umbrellas, or feasting on some of the freshest seafood you’ll find.

Got your attention yet? Here’s a guide for first-time visitors to this stunning Caribbean destination. 

Aerial panoramic of man and woman floating in the turquoise sea near Pillar of Hercules, English Harbour, Antigua, Caribbean
There’s never a bad time to discover Antigua & Barbuda’s glorious beaches and turquoise waters.

When should I go to Antigua & Barbuda?

The laid-back culture and relatively slow pace of the islands make them an ideal year-round vacation spot, with plenty of activities to keep you occupied no matter the season.

Unlike other countries in the Caribbean, the most festive time to visit Antigua and Barbuda might be during Carnival season – which happens here in the summer. What’s more, hotel rates are cheaper in late July and August in comparison to the peak hotel-occupancy periods of December through April.

Sunny days on a tropical island can be scorching at times, especially from June to September, which are also the hottest months. For those who prefer sun without extreme heat, October to May might be the best time to work on your tan.

Hurricane season officially runs from mid-August to mid-October, although storms can occur anywhere between June and November. Pay careful attention to the forecast when planning travel during these periods, even during Carnival. 

How much time should I spend in Antigua & Barbuda?

Two weeks will allow you to fully indulge in everything the island nation has to offer.

Activities range from exploring the picturesque beaches, to dining at the superb Saltplage Restaurant at the Siboney Bay Beach Club near Dickenson Bay. (Be sure to order the crab cakes topped with pico de gallo and fresh passion-fruit beurre blanc.) 

You’ll find plentiful options for fun and adventure, too, from booking a kayaking tour to explore the mangroves with South Coast Horizons; taking a boat tour to discover secluded coves and coastal features, or even circumnavigating all of Antigua; and zip-lining in the forest reserve. Those who crave excitement, can go scuba diving, Jet Skiing and parasailing.

You can also devote a day to discovering the island’s historical landmarks. Similar to other Caribbean territories, Antigua and Barbuda – formerly called Wadadli by its first, Indigenous inhabitants – has a lengthy history of colonization and a diverse cultural heritage.

If you’re interested in learning about the island’s history, the Museum of Antigua & Barbuda in the capital city of St John’s should be your first stop. 

Aerial view of cars driving on road beside the turquoise crystal sea, Antigua, Caribbean, West Indies
Renting your own car will give you maximum flexibility for exploring Antigua. Roberto Moiola/Sysaworld/Getty Images

Is it easy to get in and around Antigua & Barbuda?

Despite being the largest of Leeward Islands on which English is spoken, the islands are relatively small, with a total area of 443 sq km (171 sq miles), of which Antigua covers 280 sq km (108 sq miles). This makes getting around quite easy. 

We recommend renting your own car on Antigua for maximum ease. At around EC$120 (US$45) per day, a two-week rental will add up, it’s true – but will offer true convenience. (There are a lot of beaches here to explore, remember?) Peak traffic hours are from 8am to 4pm.

If you’re exploring the island on your own schedule, it’s best to avoid the main streets and favor outer roadways that will take you away from the town’s congestion.

Hiring taxi drivers, on the other hand, offers the advantage of a driver with extensive knowledge of the islands. Taxis charge based on the distance and the number of passengers. A short ride might cost around ED$30 (US$11), while a longer trip to a distant location could run ED$75 (US$28).

Since there’s no formal schedule for public transportation, its availability depends entirely on the bus operators’ discretion. Despite its affordability, I wouldn’t recommend it as your sole mode of transportation.

Just 42km (26 miles) north of Antigua, Barbuda can be reached either by a quick 15-minute flight or a 90-minute ferry ride from St John’s. Public transportation is not available in Barbuda due to its small size and centralized nature. Yet taxis and car rentals are readily, especially on the outskirts of Codrington, Barbuda’s sole village.

Top things to do in Antigua & Barbuda

A panoramic view of masted ships and yachts moored at Nelson’s Dockyard National Park, Antigua, Antigua & Barbuda
Nelson’s Dockyard is a historic complex that’s served as a marina continuously since the 18th century. Zoran Karapancev/Shutterstock

Visit Nelson’s Dockyard

A historic site that’s been in continuous use as a marina since the 18th century, Nelson’s Dockyard combines culture, history and range of appealing amenities.

The entire complex, together with nearby archeological sites, have earned UNESCO World Heritage designation. 

Once a former British naval base, this remarkably well-preserved Georgian dockyard takes its name from Admiral Horatio Lord Nelson, who, long before his triumph at Trafalgar, was tasked with enforcing British law in Antigua between 1784 and 1787.

Historical objects on display include Nelson’s telescope and tea caddy, as well as cannons now repurposed as bollards for securing ships. The Tartar Bell – which once graced a ship called HMS Tartar – today hangs over the main gate.

Eat fresh seafood

After a day of sightseeing, head to Copper and Lumber Store Hotel (also at Nelson’s Dockyard) – in particular at the end of the week. Seafood Fridays here offer heaps of fresh fish options: shrimp, succulent mussels and more, all prepared with a tantalizing combination of spices and saffron-infused rice. A different featured dish is offered weekly.

Watch the sun set on Shirley Heights

Those who love hiking may want to tackle 302m (1319ft) Boggy Peak (formerly known as Mt Obama), Antigua’s highest point. Yet for those who want to enjoy a similarly expansive hilltop view of the sunset without the effort, 152m (500ft) Shirley Heights is the next best thing.

The views of the turquoise waters of both English Harbor and Falmouth Harbor are a spectacular sight, especially around sunset. And the evening parties that take place at the top, especially on Sundays, are must-attend events – especially after sampling 10-year-old English Harbour rum, a local speciality. Trust me.

Fungee and pepperpot, the national dish of Antigua and Barbuda: a spicy meat soup with cornmeal dumpilngs
Don’t skip a serving of pepperpot and fungee, the national dish. It’s a rich, spicy stew served with cornmeal dumplings. Shutterstock

Dig into the national dish

At any Antiguan eatery, pepperpot and fungee take the spotlight. The former is a rich stew made with fresh greens such as spinach and okra, and enriched with dumplings and meats like pigtails, salted beef and (occasionally) chicken.

Fungee are soft cornmeal dumplings typically eaten with pepperpot, though they can also be served with other dishes, especially fish. For a taste of the real stuff, swing by Joe Mikes Restaurant in the heart of St Johs.  

Visit the local vegetable market

Nothing says Saturday mornings like a trip to the market, a beloved tradition in Antigua. The St John’s market offers a vibrant atmosphere in which vendors sell fresh fruits, vegetables, spices and more. Immerse yourself in Antiguan culture by engaging with locals and purchasing a few local trinkets.

Place a bet on a horse race in Barbuda

Experience the excitement of bi-weekly horse racing at Coronation Park on River Rd. The ambience is electric, with a vibrant crowd cheering and wagering on the horses. Numerous food vendors offer a wide range of local delicacies, and there’s lively music and entertainment for children, making it the perfect event for the whole family.  

Sample traditional Barbudan cuisine

A traditional Barbudan breakfast includes stewed conch or lobster when in season, saltfish, red herring, corned beef and stewed sausage. (Come hungry!) For a side dish, try chop-up: eggplant, spinach and okra mixed with papaya.

Mashed pumpkin or squash is usually served with boiled egg, fried plantain and bread; fried dumplings; or fritters, either banana- or pumpkin-flavored.

On Saturday mornings in Codrington from 6am until the last fish is sold, three hot-spot street vendors sell roasted yabba dumplings, fritters and an assortment of pan-fried fish. Don’t miss the chance to try the Caribbean cuisine at Uncle Roddy’s in Codrington. Other note-worthy options are The Sage Table and Wa’omoni.

The frigate bird (Fregata magnificens) is the national bird of Antigua & Barbuda
You won’t have a hard time spotting frigate birds in Barbuda, home of the western hemisphere’s largest population. Getty Images

Observe the wildlife at Frigate Bird Sanctuary

A trip to Barbuda is provides the chance to admire Codrington Lagoon’s thriving frigate-bird population – the largest in the western hemisphere. Sharing the sanctuary with the majestic kite-like birds are some 170 migrating species.

You’ll tour the area on a smaller ferry (with 12 passengers maximum); it‘s important to respect the natural habitat of the birds by refraining from touching or feeding them, as well as avoiding the use of drones within the protected area.

My favorite thing to do in Antigua & Barbuda

I always pay a visit to Dawne’s Soleil Kafé in Hodges Bay for an absolutely delicious local menu of creole delights made with fresh produce sourced locally or from neighboring islands.

If you’re a meat lover, try the smoked-meat-and-coconut-milk soup, or the jerk pork stew – and don’t forget the coconut curry goat.

The roasted veggie soup is ideal for vegetarians, while fish lovers can dig into a fried snapper (whole or filet) with sauce soleil. I also highly recommend the chicken breast, filled with spinach and seafood and served alongside a delicious island creole sauce.

For all those beach bums who yearn for a piece of paradise, nothing feels more relaxing than a visit to Runway Beach. Here, you’ll find what seems like an endless stretch of white sand and calm waters, making you want to kick off your sandals and stroll the shore barefoot.

A pile of freshly caught fish at the St John’s Public Fish Market, St John’s, Antigua, Antigua & Barbuda
You won’t find fresher fish than those at the weekly market in St John’s.

How much money do I need for Antigua & Barbuda?

Depending on your choices for accommodation and activities, Antigua can be an expensive destination. All-inclusive resorts run toward the higher end; opting for a smaller boutique hotel offers the flexibility to explore the island and manage your expenses more effectively. 

  • Guest room: starting at EC$400 (US$150) per night

  • Basic hotel room: EC$600–1000 (US$222–370) per night, depending on the season

  • Self-catering apartment (including Airbnb): EC$300 (US$111)

  • Bowl of pepperpot: EC$30 (US$11)

  • BBQ and fries: EC$17 (US$6.30)

  • Coffee: EC$10–20 (US$3.70–7.50)

  • Three-course dinner for two in Barbuda: EC$270 (US$100)

  • Beer/pint at the bar: EC$6–15 (US$2–5.50)

Note that costs are slightly higher in Barbuda, since everything must be imported from Antigua.

10 best things to do in Poland

Beyond the headline cities of Warsaw and Kraków, Poland offers abundant and memorable travel experiences.

Into history and culture? This European gem delivers with more castles, churches, palaces and museums than you could imagine. The great outdoors more your bag? Take your pick from Baltic beaches, snowcapped mountains, meandering rivers, thousands of lakes and 23 national parks.

And if you thought that Polish food and drink was all pickles, potatoes and vodka, think again. That culinary trio is the amuse-bouche for a gastronomic buffet ranging from blueberry-filled dumplings to gold-leaf-flaked liquors.

Read on for our selection of the very best experiences in Poland.

Get a bird’s eye view of Warsaw

Warsaw is one of Europe’s most dynamic capitals, and its current economic boom is symbolised by the Varso Tower which, at 310m (1017ft), is the EU’s tallest skyscraper. The Varso’s 240m-high (787ft) observation deck is slated to open in 2025. In the meantime, enjoy the retro vibes of the observation terrace of the 1955 Palace of Culture & Science; the amazing panorama of Warsaw’s reconstructed Old Town from the bell tower of St Anne’s Church; and vistas over the Vistula from the rooftop garden of Warsaw University Library.

Detour: Fabryka Norblina once produced metal goods. It’s now the biggest of Warsaw’s spate of industrial transformations and includes the city’s biggest food hall and lots of other fun places to eat and drink.

A huge ‎1950s skyscraper, the Palace of Culture & Science, is surrounded by modern skyscrapers in Warsaw.
Take in the views across Warsaw from the monumental ‎Palace of Culture & Science © Michal Bednarek / 500px

Time travel beneath Kraków’s Old Town

Kraków’s atmospheric Old Town is centred on Rynek Główny, Europe’s largest public square, which is dominated by the magnificent Cloth Hall. Go beneath the square to Rynek Underground for a subterranean glimpse into the market of six centuries ago, enhanced by 21st-century audiovisual effects.

Back above ground, on the hour, listen for the hejnał (bugle call) emanating from the taller of the two towers of St Mary’s Basilica on the market square’s west side. Inside, Jan Matejko’s polychromatic murals flank the high altar, Poland’s greatest masterpiece of Gothic art.

Detour: The Wieliczka Salt Mine, one of the world’s oldest salt mines, is around 14km (9 miles) southeast of Kraków. It’s a subterranean labyrinth of some 300km (186 miles) of tunnels, lakes and chambers including astonishing chapels with altarpieces, statues, monuments – even chandeliers – all carved out of salt.

Tour Malbork Castle, the world’s biggest brick building

This UNESCO-listed complex is Europe’s largest castle. Begun by the Teutonic Knights in the 13th century, Malbork Castle was the order’s headquarters for almost 150 years. Despite sustaining serious damage during WWII, almost the entire complex has been preserved, and the castle today looks much as it did six centuries ago. Highlights include the Grand Masters’ Palace with its splendid interiors such as the Great Refectory (look out for its remarkable palm-vaulted ceiling), and the Amber Museum.

Planning tips: Avoid queues by purchasing tickets online. Pack a picnic as the dining options at the castle are limited.

A huge red-brick castle with many towers and battlements stands on the bank of a calm river.
UNESCO-listed Malbork Castle is the largest in Europe © ewg3D / Getty Images

Understand the horrors of war at Gdańsk’s Museum of the Second World War

The first shots of WWII were fired in Gdańsk, so it’s fitting that this historic Baltic Sea port is home to the monumental Museum of the Second World War. Occupying a striking piece of contemporary architecture, the 5000-sq-meter (53,819-sq-ft) museum delivers an emotionally powerful history lesson as it charts the causes, progress and aftermath of the 20th century’s biggest conflict – all from a point of view of Poland being a victim.

Planning tips: This is a massive museum that can easily take half a day to see fully. For a break there’s a museum cafe and you can also leave and return the same day using the same ticket.

Learn about Jewish Poland at POLIN Museum of the History of Polish Jews

Another in Poland’s exceptional collection of museums is POLIN, which charts over 1000 years of Jewish history across the nation’s historic territories. The highlight is a dazzling reconstruction of the painted ceiling and bimah (raised central platform for reading the Torah) of the synagogue that once stood in Gwoździec (now part of Ukraine). The section on the Holocaust (1939–45) is appropriately dark and claustrophobic. The exhibition ends with videos of local Jews talking about the continuing specter of anti-Semitism in Poland.

Detour: Warsaw’s Jewish Historical Institute houses the UNESCO-listed Ringelblum Archive, a precious collection of 6000-plus documents, including diaries, drawings, photographs and posters, that provide first-hand accounts about Nazi Germany’s extermination of Jewish communities in Poland.

Many people are looking at the interactive exhibits inside Inside the Museum of the History of Polish Jews (POLIN) 
Discover the 1000-year history of Jewish people in Poland at the Museum of the History of Polish Jews (POLIN)  © posztos / Shutterstock

Track bison in Białowieża National Park

In the northeast of country, adjoining Belarus, the forests of Białowieża were protected for centuries by royal patronage, first as a private hunting ground for the Polish kings and later for Russian tsars. Today it’s Europe’s largest old-growth forest, and home to some 800 bison. There’s a chance of spotting the continent’s largest mammal and Poland’s national symbol in the wild on an early morning walk among the ancient lime, oak and hornbeam trees – it’s a wonderful opportunity to connect with Polish nature.

Detour: Seven bison live at the European Bison Show Reserve, near the national park. View several other species in large pens here too, including elk, wild boar, deer, a wolf and a three-legged lynx (sadly, the wolf bit off the lynx’s missing leg!).

Encounter Łódź’s abundant street art

The city of Łódź, which grew fabulously wealthy in the late 19th and early 20th centuries through manufacturing, has embraced street art unlike anywhere else in Poland. There are well over 200 public works of art to discover as you walk around, including Pasaż Róży by Joanna Rajkowska, a magical courtyard that’s completely covered with mirror fragments arranged in swirling rose patterns; and Wiedźmin (Witcher), designed by Jakub Rebelka, which is Poland’s tallest piece of street art and covers the 70m-high (230ft) sides of an apartment block.

Detour: Marco Italian Food and Street Art, the cafe at Łódź’s Central Museum of Textiles includes a gallery of images from Urban Forms, the foundation that organises the creation of some of the city’s most impressive pieces of street art.

A colorful mural depicting a man pulling a funny face is painted on the side of a building in Łódź
There are over 200 murals to spot on the streets of Łódź © Bernard Bialorucki / Getty Images

Succumb to the Renaissance charms of Zamość

The beautifully proportioned “Pearl of the Renaissance,” Zamość offers the real deal: an original late-16th-century Old Town centred on a gorgeous arcaded plaza surrounded by Armenian merchants’ residences. The town, in Poland’s southeast corner, is also ringed with defensive bastions that kept the Swedes at bay in the 17th century when they rampaged with ease through other Polish towns.

Detour: The Old Town of Lublin also survived WWII relatively unscathed. Its evocative swirl of legend-filled cobbled lanes and its main square surrounded by Renaissance and baroque townhouses is the prime visitor draw, along with the city’s vibrant festival scene.

Taste gingerbread in Toruń

They’ve been baking and perfecting gingerbread in World Heritage–listed Toruń for centuries. To learn more about this sweet and spicy treat, visit one of town’s two museums devoted to gingerbread. The bigger and better of the two is the Museum of Toruń Gingerbread, housed in the world’s oldest gingerbread bakery. Sign up for one of the museum’s workshops to learn how to make your own gingerbread.

Detour: Gateway to the Great Masurian Lakes, Olsztyn offers an attractive, spruced-up old town and plenty of new hotels, restaurants and bars. Never overwhelmed with tourists, it’s a refreshing slow down before moving on to the usually busier lakeside towns.

A display of decorated gingerbread cookies in the shape of rocking horses, love hearts and houses.
Find out how to make the perfect gingerbread in Toruń © Bob Douglas / Getty Images

Go hiking or skiing in the Tatras

No other area of Poland boasts such a diversity of landscapes as the Tatra Mountains. The most popular area for hiking is the 212-sq-km (82-sq-mile) Tatra National Park, which begins just south of Zakopane, Poland’s most fashionable mountain resort. For a short walk, the densely forested valleys of Dolina Strążyska are lovely. Alternatively strike out for the 1894m (6214ft) summit of Mt Giewont.

When the snow starts to fall, Zakopane’s 50 or so ski lifts and tows crank into action. There’s ski terrain here for everyone, from level cross-country touring to black diamond slopes for hardcore shredders.

Planning tip: Book ahead online for a ticket to visit the Tatra Park Nature Education Centre as numbers are limited to 25 people at a time.

The honeymoon’s over: our post-wedding trip mix-ups and mishaps

No matter how much time or effort you put into researching your dream honeymoon destinations, planning your newly-wed adventures or packing the perfect shared suitcase, don’t be fooled: honeymoons, just like any other trip, can go wrong.

Our staffers thought their post-wedding plans represented the epitome of romance – but hadn’t anticipated baboon invasions, being mistaken for OAPs or dodgy duck casseroles…

Cinque Terre in the sunshine, Italy.
Cinque Terre in the sunshine – what Dora had been dreaming of witnessing © Javen / Shutterstock

Searching (in vain) for sunshine in Italy

We set off on the train south with smiles, swimwear and our base tans set to biscuit brown. What could be more old-school romantic than a sunny honeymoon on the Italian Riviera? We would slurp spaghetti alle vongole in our own version of Lady and the Tramp and frolic in the Bay of Poets yelling Shelley and Byron to each other over that famously crystalline water.

Sadly, it being April, we were met by dense mist, closed restaurants, grey beaches and a mounting suspicion we’d made a very stupid mistake. As we shivered on loungers the price of the groom’s suit – wrapped in our coats and using our books as windshields – we slowly, dejectedly, gave up on our vision. The sun was not coming out.

Dora Ball – Commissioning Editor. Follow her tweets @DoraWhit.

James and his partner pose in front of Uluru, Australia.
The happy couple before the night from hell © James Kay

Australia: honeymoon heaven or hell?

During the Oz leg of our honeymoon, we joined a tour from Darwin to the Red Centre, which reached a climax at Uluru. Camping near ‘the Rock’ sounded great in principle, but sleeping under the stars in a swag bag got old quickly thanks to the ravenous mosquitoes, which took turns to feast on the only exposed part of our bodies: our faces.

We opted for the alternative accommodation, a sort of shed containing primitive bunks (essentially, metal shelves without mattresses). But the shed had retained, and perhaps raised, the daytime temperature of 36°C, and the mozzies found their way in. Cue a night of sliding around in a slick of sweat, clawing an ever-growing number of bites, to a chorus of howling dingoes. Oh, the romance.

James Kay – Editor, lonelyplanet.com. Follow his tweets @JamesKay123.

Two male lions snooze under a tree in South Africa.
Gemma went on a solomoon to help track lions in the wild © Gemma Graham

Going solo in South Africa

My honeymoon didn’t even get off the ground: with two months to go, my fiancé backed out of our wedding. Understandably, I was devastated, but I figured the best thing I could do would be to take myself on a ‘solomoon’, doing something I’d always dreamed of doing, but had never had the courage to.

I booked flights to South Africa and signed up to volunteer on a conservation project tracking lions in the wild. Conditions were basic and the hours long, but being surrounded by nature in this way helped to put everything in perspective. Prior to this, I hadn’t been further than the Canary Islands, but the trip gave me the travel bug, which ultimately led to me working for Lonely Planet. Mishap? What mishap?

Gemma Graham – Destination Editor, Northern Europe. Follow her tweets @oh_gg.

Imogen and Tom Hall pose in front of the baobab trees in Madagascar.
Feeling perkier, just in time for the baobabs in Madagascar © Imogen Hall

Making memories (good and bad) in Madagascar

With both of us working in travel we really wanted to push the boat out when it came to our honeymoon, so we jumped at the chance to take an organised canoe trip down the Tsiribihina River in Madagascar. For three days we floated along, camping on the banks at night and watching lemurs swing through the trees by day. It was idyllic. Until the last night.

We were used to dinner being a leisurely affair, so we marvelled at how quickly our duck casserole appeared, only for me to have it appear again and again and again for another three days. I eventually surfaced – several pounds lighter – to make it to the incredible baobabs; I still cherish the memory of the canoe trip, just not its spectacularly unromantic end.

Imogen Hall – Lonely Planet’s family travel expert. Follow her tweets @ImogenMaryHall.

A misty rainforest in Australia.
Getting lost in an ancient forest after checking into a hotel for ancient people isn’t ideal © zstock / Shutterstock

Getting the OAP treatment in Australia

We accidentally honeymooned in an old people’s home. Sort of. We’d flown home internationally to wed on the north coast of New South Wales, Australia, and only had a few days for a minimoon, so we headed into the mountains for a rainforest retreat. When we arrived we were surprised that the receptionists were so anxious for us to understand the ‘complicated’ keycard system and for us to join ‘everyone’ for tea and cheese at 4pm. We later realised that the retreat mainly catered to elderly clientele and that there would be betting on the horses in the dining room over dinner.

Giving up on the retreat, we went hiking, only for me to be bitten by a snake (I was fine) and for us to get lost in the mountain mist, surrounded by ghostly wallabies. It was a weird but memorable three days.

Heather Champion – Product Editor. Follow her on Instagram @heathesaurus.

Ben and his new wife pose with an inflatable canoe in Costa Rica.
Three’s a crowd on honeymoon – or at least means no cocktails © Ben Buckner

A bump in the road to Costa Rica

We got married in June but held off until October for our honeymoon in Costa Rica. It was to be a two-part vacation – half high adventure and half complete relaxation. We would start with ziplining, 4WDs, hot springs and more in La Fortuna, then head to an all-inclusive resort on the coast, where we would drink bottomless cocktails on the beach.

But in the four months between the wedding and honeymoon all our plans came unravelled – we got pregnant. Or rather, my wife did. No more zip lines, hot springs or alcohol. We still had an amazing time, including an inflatable kayak river trip and all the rainforest hiking we could ask for. We’ll just have to go back for the zip lines.

Ben Buckner – Destination Editor, USA (West) & Canada. Follow his tweets @BuckPacking.

A profile of a baboon with piercing orange eyes.
Not quite the eyes you want gazing at you on a romantic trip… © Tim de Boeck / Shutterstock

A terrifying encounter in Tanzania

The day I was chased out of the Malaysian jungle by monkeys was the day I realised that they’re mean little creatures. On safari in the Serengeti many years later, my husband snapped photos of monkeys while I stayed on my guard. I wasn’t fooled by their playful nature or their silly noises; I was primed, ready for imminent monkey attack.

That evening on the balcony at our lodge, I’d finally started to relax when a massive baboon jumped down from the roof and sat at our table. I screamed, ran inside and hid behind the bar. My poor husband had to explain both the screaming and his missing wife to the staff, whilst calmly dealing with the primate stealing our nuts.

Claire Naylor – Senior Editor. Follow her tweets @RoadTripJones.

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A first-time guide to Armenia

On Europe’s far eastern flank, Armenia is one of the few remaining countries on the continent where you can truly get off the beaten track. (Think: Albania five years ago.)

Rich in history and culture, this captivating country in the Caucasus is dotted with enchanting stone monasteries, many dating back more than eight centuries. Its growing capital, Yerevan, is packed from (tuff-volcanic-stone) wall to wall with galleries, performance venues and feast-worthy restaurants. And – appropriately for such a mountainous country – there’s ample hiking, too, with plenty of cozy mountain resorts and homestays to spend a few nights.

But the best part about traveling to Armenia is having the opportunity to chat with locals. Their pride and passion for their homeland is fascinating, and they might make you feel like an Armenian yourself.

Here’s everything you need to know before you visit.

Armenia is one of the best countries to visit next year. See our full list of Best in Travel 2025 winners.

A poppy field with mountains in the distance near Jermuk, Vayots Dzor Region, Armenia
Wild poppies dot mountain meadows each spring in Armenia © Emad aljumah / Getty Images

When should I go to Armenia?

Armenia is hopping in summer – though it’s also very hot, with July and August temperatures in Yerevan hovering around 30°C (86°F). Summer is also time for fun festivals like Vardavar (during which locals run around tossing buckets of water at each other – and likely you), and for cooling off in Lake Sevan.

You can avoid the heat by visiting in in May or June, when it’s usually between 10°C (50°F) and 30°C (86°F) in Yerevan. Springtime is also wonderful for hiking across Armenian hilltops and valleys, which are speckled with millions of wildflowers. (Locals brew the flowers into tea or make them into jewelry.) Fall is another wise time to visit since there are fewer crowds and usually pleasant temperatures.

The long winter (November to March) isn’t ideal as many tourist amenities shut down and the temperatures can drop below freezing. If you do find yourself in Armenia at that time, stick to Yerevan, where there are plenty of ways to warm up with a glass of wine. Some great spots include In Vino wine bar and Ulikhanyan Jazz Club.

How much time should I spend in Armenia?

Many people pop over to Armenia after visiting Georgia – it’s a quick and easy trip over the land border to Armenia’s UNESCO-listed monasteries Sanahin and Haghpat. If you’re short on time, fly directly into Yerevan’s Zvartnots Airport, which has lately been welcoming more and more flights from Europe and the Middle East.

If you have time, spend a week or two circling Armenia in a car – the country is slightly smaller than Belgium, so it won’t take too much time.

Landscape shot of the road between the city of Meghri and the Iranian border, Armenia
Having your own car lets you explore the farthest corners of Armenia © Jean-Philippe Tournut / Getty Images

Is it easy to get in and around Armenia?

Armenia is still connected by Soviet-era minibuses called marshrutky, which can be a frustrating mode of travel as they don’t have fixed schedules. Trains, which run between Yerevan and Batumi in Georgia with a few stops along the way, are extremely slow, so aren’t recommended if unless you have ample time.

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The easiest option to get around Armenia is via car or van tours. You’ll find plenty of operators with reasonable prices around Republic Square in Yerevan.

Yerevan itself is very walkable, and ride-hailing apps GG and Yandex are a common and affordable way to get around (Armenia doesn’t have Uber). Yerevan also has spiffy new city buses and a one-line subway, though you won’t likely need them if you stick to exploring the city center.

If you have time, the best way to explore Armenia is by renting a car from the airport or through an agency in Yerevan. Having your own vehicle will give you the freedom to stop when you want and hike to remote monasteries. There are also a few cool campgrounds for road trippers on a budget, including Crossway Camping, where you can stay in a hippie bus, or Camping 3 Gs, which has epic views.

A hiker looks out at the green hills and valley beyond, Dilijan National Park, Armenia
Hiking is an invigorating way to discover Armenia’s countryside © Dmitriy Gutkovskiy / Shutterstock

Top things to do in Armenia

A visit to Armenia will undoubtedly include a visit to one of its marvelous stone monasteries – after all, Armenia is the world’s first Christian nation. Some of the finest are within a couple of hours from Yerevan, including Noravank, which shines gold at sunset, and Khor Virap, where Surp Gregory the Illuminator was imprisoned before convincing King Tiridates III to declare Armenia Christian in 301. Most monasteries are located in canyons or on mountaintops; explore them on foot with the help of local hiking app HIKEArmenia.

A trip to Armenia’s cities is wonderful if you’re into art and high culture. Yerevan is filled with art galleries dedicated to notable Armenian artists like Sergei Parajanov – one of the world’s great film directors – and performance venues like the grand National Opera and Ballet Theatre. In Armenia’s second city, Gyumri, you can wander around tuff-black-stone buildings and visit the Aslamazyan Museum, which is dedicated to two artist sisters, one of whom many consider Armenia’s Frida Kahlo.

Armenia is a burgeoning wine destination and home to the world’s oldest winery, inside the Areni-1 Cave. You can sip Armenia’s unique areni grape wine among vineyards at Momik Wine Cube.

Or hit the trails. Surrounded by forested paths, Dilijan is a great mountaintop base; you can also hike up Mt Aragats, Armenia’s tallest mountain. If you’re up for a (much) bigger challenge, you can through-hike the Armenian section of the epic Transcaucasian Trail.

An architectural detail from the Cascade Complex, Yerevan, Armenia
The massive Soviet-era Cascade in Yerevan now houses the Cafesjian Center for the Arts © Stefan Cristian Cioata / Getty Images

My favorite thing to do in Armenia

For those who lived through the Soviet days, decaying brutalist stone architecture might be considered a painful reminder of the USSR’s collapse. For me, as a Canadian, exploring abandoned Soviet structures is my favorite thing to do in Armenia.

Yerevan’s Children’s Railway still runs and is fantastic, as is the pyramid-like Cafesjian Center for the Arts (aka the Cascade), which has been reimagined as an amazing art gallery and sculpture garden. Outside the capital, check out the telescopes around Byurakan. There are sometimes tours of the Byurakan Astrophysical Observatory and – depending on the guard’s mood – you have a good shot of visiting the abandoned Radio Optical Observatory 54.

People sit at an outdoor cafe in the evening, Yerevan, Armenia
You’ll find excellent restaurants all over Yerevan © ArtNat / Shutterstock

How much money do I need for Armenia?

Armenia has its own currency, the dram, easily exchanged at money changers in Yerevan or withdrawn from ATM with little or no fees. Credit cards are widely accepted in Yerevan, but not outside the capital.

While Armenia might be cheap by European standards, prices are still higher than many nearby Central Asian countries. The most expensive place is Yerevan, and there are several high-priced resort areas like Dilijan in the north, as well as along the western beaches of Lake Sevan.

If you’re on a budget, try a homestay or B&B – these allow you to connect with locals and often feature the option of learning to make Armenian dishes like gata (cake).

  • Hostel room: Around 7500AMD (around US$20)

  • Basic room for two: Starting at 30,000AMD ($80)

  • Self-catering apartment (including Airbnb): Starting at 20,000AMD ($50)

  • Public-transport ticket: 300AMD ($1)

  • Soorch (Armenian coffee): 500–800AMD ($2)

  • Lahmajun (Armenian flatbread): 500–1500AMD ($2–3)

  • Dinner for two: Around 7500AMD ($20) and up

  • Local beer at the bar: 800AMD ($2)

Is Armenia safe?

Tensions have been rumbling with neighboring Azerbaijan since the fall of the Soviet Union, leading to multiple wars and frequent fire across Armenia’s eastern border. In 2023, Azerbaijan seized the disputed territory of Nagorno-Karabakh; discussions of a permanent peace deal remain ongoing. Whether a peace deal is reached or not, Armenia is generally safe to visit, though it’s a good idea to avoid the border areas with Azerbaijan.

A man looks up at a vaulted ceiling at Sanahin Monastery, Armenia
Historic stone monasteries like Sanahin are some of Armenia’s best-known attractions © Justin Foulkes / Lonely Planet

Can you travel between Armenia, Azerbaijan and Türkiye?

You cannot travel by land or air between Armenia and Azerbaijan directly, though you may connect through a third country like Georgia. Flights are available to and from Türkiye; the land border is only open to those who aren’t traveling on Armenian or Turkish passports.

Land borders are open with Georgia and Iran, but be sure to carefully research visa requirements if thinking about a trip to the latter.

How much English is spoken in Armenia?

Since the principal languages spoken are Armenian and Russian, fluent English is rare in Armenia, Yet don’t be discouraged. You should be fine with English in Yerevan, and Armenians are famous for making themselves understood using any means possible, including their hands.

Candles and a religious icon in Saint Sarkis Cathedral, Yerevan, Armenia
Be sure to show respect by covering up in Armenia’s beautiful churches © Barney.DC / Shutterstock

Do I have to cover up?

Due to their Christian Orthodox faith, Armenians tend to dress more conservatively and show less skin than in Western Europe. But things are starting to change, due in large part to the influx of liberal Russians fleeing the war with Ukraine. Nevertheless, it’s still a good idea to dress respectfully, especially when entering a church.