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A first-time guide to Dominica

Dominica is one of the few Caribbean islands where the beach is the least captivating attraction. 

The real reason to visit this tropical paradise? Natural outdoor experiences, which abound here.  Blanketed in emerald vegetation and liberally sprinkled with hot springs, waterfalls, gorges, volcanoes and black sand, Dominica lets you get up close to nature at its most unspoiled and idyllic.

After all, in what other place would you find 365 rivers?

When should I go to Dominica?

The so-called Nature Island consists of 290 sq miles (751 sq km) of dense rainforests, deep gorges, towering mountains and natural hot springs – which add up to an optimal playground for ecotourists and adventurers. 

Such rugged terrain unlocks year-round opportunities for exploration. When you go depends on your preferences and the kind of experience you’re looking for. As on most Caribbean islands, there’s really never a bad time to visit.

Dominica has two primary seasons: the dry season, which runs from December to May; and the wet (rainy) season, from June to November. The wet season is also hurricane season, so expect intermittent showers and potentially stormy weather.

(Category 5 Hurricane Maria hit the island in 2017). Barring a steady downpour, the rainy season typically allows for outdoor activities, too.

Dominica is blessed with warm waters all year round, perfect for exploring the island’s abundant marine life by scuba diving or snorkeling. If hiking is your vibe, the dry season is your time to shine; just be sure to head out early before the blazing midday temperatures set in.

If cultural exploration is more your speed, consider a getaway during Carnival, known locally as “Mas Dominik.” This colorful celebration takes place in the lead-up to Ash Wednesday, usually in February or early March. Another staple on the calendar is the World Creole Music Festival in October, which pays homage to marvelous, indigenous Dominican music, and features other popular genres.

A waterfall meets a small pool in a forest with green trees and moss-covered rocks, Dominica
Even in the wet season, nature beckons in Dominica. Shutterstock

How much time should I spend in Dominica?

Dominica is the perfect getaway if you’re searching for relaxation and renewal. Visitors should stay for a week or longer to make the most of their time on the island and let their stress truly go. 

Is it easy to get in and around Dominica?

American Airlines provides daily direct service from its Miami hub, from which flights reach cities throughout the USA and the world.

Douglas-Charles (formerly Melville Hall Airport) is the larger of Dominica’s two airports, and lies a little over an hour’s drive from the capital of Roseau. Canefield Airport, which has propeller-plane service to other Caribbean islands, is 15 minutes from the capital. Visitors can also get to the island via the Express des Îles ferry service from Guadeloupe, Martinique and St Lucia. 

Upon your arrival, you’ll have multiple options for navigating the island. Taxis are stationed outside both airports and at various spots around the capital. Privately owned minibuses – denoted by the letter “H” – ply several routes across the island.

You can flag one down by the roadside, depending on the area (fares start as low as EC$1.50 / US$.50). There is also the option of renting a vehicle, which you’ll need to purchase a permit for EC$30 (US$11) to do.

Top things to do in Dominica 

A person seen from behind with a backpack on a path reinforced with logs leading through a forest in Dominica
The 115-mile-long Waitukubuli National Trail is an unmissable outdoor adventure. Kristian Muthugalage/Shutterstock

Take a (very) long walk across the island 

It’s possible to hike across the entire island along the Waitukubuli National Trail. This path is unique among Caribbean long-distance hiking routes – it’s the longest in the region – and extends an incredible 115 miles (185km) from tip to tip, starting in the southern village of Scotts Head and terminating at Cabrits National Park in the north.

Waitukubuli (the Indigenous Kalinago word for Dominica) weaves through thick rainforests and thunderous waterfalls like Trafalgar, with plenty of stops in thriving local communities along the way.

It’s an admittedly arduous trek, and hiking the entire trail will require a two-week commitment. Yet since it’s strategically chopped into 14 segments, you can pick your adventure based on time and level of difficulty.

Some sections are perfect for a family stroll, while others are more demanding and suitable for only seasoned explorers. If you’re up for the full challenge, it’s a truly immersive experience, one that gets you to the core of Dominican culture.

Decompress at one of the island’s natural spas

A tiny village tucked away in the Roseau Valley, Wotten Waven boasts a concentration of natural spas. While they are on the rustic side, these open-air havens might be just what you need to decompress. 

Tikwen Glocho (literally “little corner of hot water”) is a garden sanctuary with adjacent cool springs and a collection of enormous stone pools brimming with therapeutic thermal waters in which you can take a soak to ease your tension. At Tia’s Hot Spa, you’ll find three large outdoor pools and two private pools encased in bamboo huts.

Screw’s Spa, perched on the outskirts of Wotten Waven, is a scenic retreat overlooking a river. The spa features several pools of varying depths and temperatures connected by cascading man-made waterfalls.

A man paddles a boat painted in red, yellow and blue past the mangrove roots and green trees of the rainforest along the Indian River in Dominica
Get close to nature by floating down the Indian River on a boat. Michael Lees for Lonely Planet

Float along the most famous of Dominica’s 365 rivers 

Gliding down Dominica’s Indian River, the island’s most famous, is a peaceful way to absorb and appreciate the island’s seemingly untouched beauty.

The wildlife-laden route is fringed by thick greenery and shaded by a loose canopy of towering mangroves, while the twisted roots of bwa mang trees wrap around the swampy riverbank. 

Moviegoers may recognize Tia Dalma’s Shack, a popular stop on the trip, from the Pirates of the Caribbean franchise. Don’t miss the signature Dynamite, a potent concoction of local cask rum, gooseberry, passionfruit, lime and guineps. 

Uncover Dominica’s wild side at Morne Trois Pitons

In Morne Trois Pitons National Park, marvel at the striking Boiling Lake, which began as a volcanic crater and today is one of the world’s largest extra-hot bodies of water. 

In the nearby, vividly named Valley of Desolation, bubbling fumaroles, steaming vents and hot springs make for an almost post-apocalyptic scene. Hikers exploring the area will also come across Ti Tou Gorge, a sliver of a canyon filled with gin-clear water. 

And towering over it all is the park’s centerpiece, the imposing 4403ft (1342m) Morne Trois Pitons, whose summit unveils unfettered views of neighboring Morne Micotrin, Morne Watt and Morne Anglais.

Three musicians – on bass, keyboard and steel drum – perform in the street against a red-painted wall, Roseau, Dominica
Music fills the streets during the Dominica’s annual World Creole Music Festival. Gemma Handy/AFP via Getty Images

My favorite thing to do in Dominica 

Dominica has an untamed, raw quality that suggests how the place will stay itself even as visitors start catching on. This aura is reflected in my favorite Dominican event, the World Creole Music Festival, a three-day party that celebrates the island’s sensational music. 

I grew up obsessed with the WCK Band, a legend of Bouyon music and Dominican culture. My body still moves involuntarily when ”Band Wagon Train,” “Balance Batty“ or ”Met Veye” catches my ear. And to witness a performance in Dominica at WCMF? Electric. 

How much money do I need for Dominica?

Tourists from the US, Canada, the UK, and Europe can take advantage of a favorable currency-exchange rate when they convert their money to Eastern Caribbean dollars.

  • Accommodations: EC$270–540 (US$100–200) per night

  • Restaurants: EC$30–200 (US$11–74)

  • Public transportation: EC$1.50–12.50 (US$.50–4.50)

  • Private taxi service: EC$80–250 (US$30–92)

  • Glass of rum punch: EC$12–20 (US$4.50–7.50)

  • Cup of coffee or cocoa tea: EC$5.40–13.50 (US$2–5)

More tips for enjoying Dominica

A woman with braids, hoop earrings and a beaded necklace closes her eyes as she sits in murky thermal waters up to her neck Tikwen Choglo natural spa, Dominica
Unwind in the thermal baths of Tikwen Choglo – just be sure to wear a swimsuit that won’t stain. Micheal Lees for Lonely Planet

Wear dark swimsuits in hot waters

If you’re visiting a sulfur spring, remember that light swimming suits and trunks will easily stain. It’s also wise to remove your jewelry before entering the pool to avoid damaging the metal. 

Carry cash 

Some businesses don’t accept credit or debit cards, and it is unlikely that any will accept Apple Pay. So it’s always advisable to carry some cash – either local EC or US dollars – to ensure smooth transactions, especially at smaller establishments. 

Hire a guide to get the most out of your nature excursions

Some segments of the Waitukubuli National Trail are more difficult and dangerous than others. Hire a knowledgeable guide – you can contact the Forestry, Wildlife and Parks Division for recommendations – and don’t attempt the hike alone.

Depending on your selected segment, you might also need a hiking pass, which can also be purchased through the forestry agency. As an extra safety precaution, inform representatives at your accommodation of your hiking plans before you set out. 

15 of the best things to do in Brazil

Whether you prefer wilderness or dense cities, the call of frogs in the rainforest or the beat of samba drums, Brazil has an experience lined up for you. The country’s status as a natural paradise is impossible to deny. While superlatives simply don’t do it justice, this continent-sized nation is home to the largest rainforest, the most sprawling wetlands, and more known species of plants, freshwater fish and mammals than any other country in the world.

Brazil is also home to myriad indigenous and immigrant cultures, each with their own unique languages, foods and music. Get a taste for Afro-Brazilian heritage by eating acarajé in Salvador, dance samba in Rio de Janeiro, or move to the sounds of frevo in Olinda during Carnaval. The Amazon, too, hosts some of the biggest parties in Brazil. If you think you’ll be ready for another vacation at the end of all that, look no further than Brazil’s tropical islands for some downtime.

Plan your shortlist of must-dos with this guide to Brazil’s top experiences.

1. Admire the view in Rio de Janeiro

Beaches, architecture, museums, waterfalls, nightlife…there are dozens of good reasons to visit Rio de Janeiro. But if this city has one essential thing to do, it’s getting up high to admire the view. From above, Rio’s dramatic topography is revealed in all its splendor – forest-covered mountains plunging down to the ocean with urban sprawl jammed in between.

Visitors jostle for selfie space at two of the city’s most popular tourist spots, the 710m-high (2329ft-high) Christ the Redeemer statue and Pão de Açúcar (Sugarloaf Mountain), which both offer spectacular 360-degree views. To avoid the crowds, a splurge on a helicopter tour is worth every real.

A stunning vista is the reward at the end of hikes in the Tijuca National Park, with particularly breathtaking views from the Pico da Tijuca and Pedra da Gávea peaks.

A peaceful golden-sand beach with small boats moored on the shore
Relax on the shores of the beautiful Ilha Grande on Brazil’s Costa Verde. Arkadij Schell/Shutterstock

2. Relax on a tropical island

Brazil has thousands of beaches along its coastline, but you can side-step the difficult task of choosing one by escaping to a tropical island instead. Ilha Grande, south of Rio de Janeiro on the Costa Verde, has warm seas and white sandy beaches fringed by the forests of the Mata Atlântica. Ilhabela combines good restaurants for the São Paulo weekenders with hiking trails and guest houses hidden away in dense, jungle-covered hills.

Smaller Ilha do Mel in the south of Brazil near Paranaguá feels more remote, with just a handful of accommodation options, plus a lighthouse, fort and caves to explore. The Bahian coast is a safe bet for sunshine, and Boipeba has more than 20km (12 miles) of palm-lined beaches and a castaway vibe.

3. Spot whales in Praia do Rosa

Once a sleepy fishing hamlet, Praia do Rosa is now a top surf destination, with charming guest houses and hotels tucked into the hillside above a bay. In the winter months (June to November), surfers are joined by another type of visitor playing in the waves: southern right whale calves.

Whales were hunted in these waters as far back as the 1700s and were widely thought to be extinct by the 1970s. Despite making a comeback, they’re still highly endangered. The whales migrate here from Patagonia every year to breed, and a marine reserve stretching 130km (80 miles) along the coast was established to help protect them.

Planning tip: Only masochists will want to swim in the sea this far south in the winter, but the beach is a beautiful destination for windy walks and whale spotting year-round. Boat tours can also be booked for a closer look.

Crowds of football fans in the stands of a stadium
Join the excited crowds for a football match at Maracanã stadium. A.RICARDO/Shutterstock

4. Soak up the energy at a soccer game

It’s impossible not to know when there’s a big soccer game playing in Brazil, as every screen in every bar will have it on, with shouts ringing out across neighborhoods when goals are scored. Join in the action by booking tickets to see a game, where the passionate supporters can be as much of a spectacle as the game itself.

The Maracanã stadium in Rio de Janeiro is legendary – it hosted the 2014 FIFA World Cup final between Germany and Argentina, as well as the opening and closing ceremonies of the 2016 Summer Olympics. SR Flamengo is the biggest club in Rio and you can expect excited crowds when the team goes head-to-head with any of its local rivals.

In São Paulo, SE Palmeiras and Corinthians both have gleaming modern stadiums, and the latter in particular is famous for its passionate supporters. The city’s Pacaembu Stadium is an art deco jewel, although it hosts fewer games these days. The soccer museum underneath the stadium is a monument to Brazil’s greatest passion.

5. Watch birds in the Atlantic Forest

Bird-watching enthusiasts will want to trek to some of the most spectacular off-the-beaten-path spots in the Mata Atlântica (Atlantic Forest). One of Brazil’s six biomes, the Atlantic Forest is a hot spot for birding – it’s home to nearly 900 bird species, a quarter of which don’t live anywhere else, including three-toed jacamars and kaleidoscopic green-headed tanagers.

You can explore Atlantic Forest habitats in dozens of national and state parks as well as hundreds of private nature reserves. Itatiaia, established in 1937 as Brazil’s first national park, is a birding paradise. Further south, among the mangroves and salt marshes of Superagui National Park and the Sebui private nature reserve, other Atlantic Forest species such as scarlet ibis and the red-tailed Amazon parrot fill the skies at sunset as they come in to roost for the night.

A speedboat with tourists travels under a waterfall
Fuel your adrenaline with a boat trip under Iguaçu Falls. Jakub Barzycki/Shutterstock

6. Get soaked on a speed boat under Iguaçu Falls

The thunder and roar of 396,000 gallons (1.5 million liters) of water pouring over the edge of Iguaçu Falls every second is a thrilling, visceral experience. Dozens of activities in and around the falls will keep visitors occupied for days, from hiking and cycling in the surrounding national park to feeding the birds at the Parque das Aves bird and wildlife sanctuary.

There’s a good chance you’ll get wet at some stage during your visit, so why not submit to the deluge in the most adrenaline-fueled way possible, with a speedboat ride right under the falls? Turbo-dinghies with 500 horsepower outboard motors pass right beside the falls, where it’s so loud no one will hear your shrieks.

Planning tip: The nearby Itaipú Dam – the world’s second-largest – is well worth a visit, too, and accessible via Brazil or Paraguay.

7. Dance during Carnaval

For one hot, sweaty but utterly thrilling day of your life, you can feel like a star as you don an enormous costume and join a samba school to parade down the Sambódromo during Carnaval in Rio de Janeiro. Broadcast live on national television, with many thousands of spectators cheering from the grandstands, this parade is a fierce competition that’s taken extremely seriously by the samba schools that prepare for it year-round.

But Carnaval is not all about Rio. Each corner of the country celebrates in its own way, and one of the most traditional can be found in the coastal city of Olinda. Instead of samba, the rhythms of frevo, maracatu and afoxé ring out across the hilly streets of this charming town. Local bands playing percussion and brass draw huge crowds of excitable revelers trying to keep pace.

Planning tip: Tickets for the Sambódromo can be bought through the official website, which sells seats for the arquibancadas (bleachers) or camarotes (boxes). However, they sell out extremely quickly. Tickets may be available on resale sites, but expect to pay upwards of US$100.

A cobbled street lined with colorful street-art designs
Wander the streets of São Paulo looking out for the city’s famous street-art murals. F de Jesus/Shutterstock

8. See street art in São Paulo

A maze of underpasses and overpasses, sidewalks cracked by tree roots, and steep hills make walking in São Paulo something of an adventure sport. But the reward is a wealth of murals and graffiti daubed across the city’s urban sprawl, all the more striking against the city’s ubiquitous gray concrete.

The colorful Beco do Batman (Batman’s Alley) is a top spot for street art and a tourist honeypot. In Centro, artist Felipe Yung’s 10,000 sq m (107,639 sq ft) Aquarium covers the facades of 15 buildings. The 3.5km (2.2-mile) Minhoção – officially Via Elevada Presidente João Goulart – is closed to traffic at night and at weekends, making it the perfect place to stroll while taking in artwork by such artists as Speto, Zezão and Mag Magrela.

Cambuci, in the southeast of the city, was the stomping ground for the world-famous duo OsGemeos in their youth, and it’s the best place to see their art outside of museums. In northern São Paulo, the Museu Aberto de Arte Urbana (Open Museum of Urban Art) brings together street art by dozens of creators on the huge columns underneath a metro line.

9. Contemplate the origins of life at Serra da Capivara

The culmination of a lifetime’s work for Brazilian archaeologist, Niède Guidon, the Museu da Natureza (Museum of Nature) opened in late 2018. A spiral-shaped building at the edge of the Serra da Capivara National Park, the museum explores the history of humans and other species from their earliest known existence.

Highlights include saber-toothed cat teeth and a 6m (20ft) life-size model of the giant sloth Eremotherium, fossils of which were found in the park. Serra da Capivara has an astounding 300 archaeological sites where fossils, ceramics, bones and tens of thousands of examples of cave art – the largest collection in the world – have been found over the decades. These discoveries suggest that humans settled here as far back as 50,000 years ago, challenging the mainstream theory about human settlement in the Americas.

Planning tip: An airport was built near the Serra da Capivara in 2015, but the only commercial flights run from Petrolina and Recife; most visitors drive or catch a bus from Petrolina or Teresina.

Colorful buildings line a cobbled street in an old town
Take a guided tour in Salvador to learn about the city’s Afro-Brazilian heritage. Emiliano :)/500px

10. Understand Afro-Brazilian culture in Salvador

Chili, coconut, coriander, dried shrimp, dendé palm oil…the ingredients of Bahian cuisine make for some of the tastiest dishes in Brazil, showing the strong African influences in the city of Salvador.

A popular street food is acarajé, a deep-fried ball of black-eyed pea paste stuffed with a dried shrimp stew and condiments. The dish is traditionally made by Baianos, descendants of the first Africans in Brazil, and it was even given protected cultural heritage status in 2005. Acarajé is just one of the Baiano-made foods connected to the worship of orixás, deities of Yoruban origin.

Planning tip: Salvador is the best place in Brazil to immerse yourself in Afro-Brazilian culture and religion. The Caminho dos Orixás – Oxum is a tour of the city’s sights run by an agency specializing in Afro-Brazilian culture. Viare Travel also organizes tours tailored around Afro-Brazilian heritage.

11. Float down the river in Bonito

An ecotourism boom town near the Pantanal wetlands, Bonito is a giant aquarium and a playground for lovers of nature. The clear waters here spring up through a limestone base that acts as a water purifier, allowing for astounding underwater visibility. Visitors will come face to face with all sorts of fascinating fish while floating down the Rio da Prata. Alternatively, rafting down the Rio Formoso provides a chance to look out for fish and birds while you navigate the rapids.

Costumed performers with large headresses in a parade at a festival
Bumba Meu Boi, held in Paratins in June, celebrates Brazil’s folklore. T photography/Shutterstock

12. Party on at festivals in the Amazon

Trees, not people, are what dominate the Amazon in the popular imagination. But the world’s largest rainforest is home to more than 30 million people and they throw some pretty spectacular parties (they’re Brazilian too, after all). Bumba Meu Boi is a folk festival held in June in Parantins that recounts the death and resurrection of an ox, with music, fireworks, dancing and glittering costumes.

The biggest Amazonian festival is Círio de Nazaré, a Catholic celebration that attracts more than a million devotees each October. Devout locals file through the streets of Belém, at the mouth of the Amazon River, in a cathartic throng. Some 966km (600 miles) upriver, the town of Maués throws a festival every December to celebrate the harvest of its energy-boosting guaraná fruit. Locals dance on the beaches of the Maués-Acú River until the early hours.

13. Visit a cachaça distillery

Also known as pinga (among dozens of other nicknames), cachaça is an exclusively Brazilian distilled sugarcane spirit that can range from cheap rocket fuel to an expensive, aged artisanal delicacy. It’s also the main ingredient in the unofficial Brazilian national drink, the caipirinha. Bars can provide an easy education in the delights of cachaça – but better still is a distillery tour.

Minas Gerais is the main cachaça-producing region in Brazil and home to the oldest functioning distillery, Engenho Boa Vista, which has been in business for more than 260 years. Overlooking the sea, the Maria Izabel distillery is a must for any visitors to Paraty. Rio Encantos runs a cachaça tour in Rio, taking in the historic center of the city and finishing up with a cachaça tasting.

Planning tip: The Mapa da Cachaça website is a great resource, mapping out distilleries across the country.   

A jaguar -- a large spotted cat -- in the jungle
Head on a guided tour of the Pantanal in April to September for the best chances of spotting an elusive jaguar. Walter Mario Stein/Shutterstock

14. Track jaguars in the Pantanal

The largest cat in the Americas, the jaguar is a rare and elusive creature. These famed big cats roam far and wide across Brazil, and despite game hunting being illegal since 1967, jaguars are still poached. Add in habitat loss – exacerbated by recent fires and the expansion of cattle ranching – and the result has been a decline in their population, placing these magnificent animals at risk of extinction.

One of the best habitats for spotting jaguars is the Pantanal, the world’s largest wetland. Conservation NGO Onçafari was set up in 2011 to help protect the jaguars through research and ecotourism. The group runs jaguar safaris from its base at the Caiman Lodge, a private nature reserve.

Planning tip: A number of local tour operators also run jaguar safaris, and the deeper you get into the wetlands, the better chance you have of spotting one. Chances of sightings are best during the dry season (April to September).

15. Kitesurf off Brazil’s northeast coast

Some of the world’s most respected kitesurfing champions are from Brazil – no surprise given the country’s thousands of miles of windswept Atlantic coastline. Ceará in northeastern Brazil has some of the best kitesurfing hot spots, including Cumbuco (a playground for some of the top athletes) and the coastal hubs of Icapuí and Preá.

A little farther north in Piauí state, Barra Grande is an up-and-coming spot for the sport. In Maranhão, lagoons in Atins offer up wind without the waves and the bonus of being on the doorstep of the desert-like Lençois Maranhenses National Park.

Copy my trip: Hotel Xcaret México in Playa del Carmen

Lonely Planet destination editor Melissa Yeager recently traveled to Playa del Carmen to take in the relaxing natural beauty of one of its ecoresorts. Here, she shares some tips and insights for anyone planning a similar trip.

Inevitably there are destinations and hotels you come across that you immediately think, in the words of Liz Lemon: “I want to go to there.”

That feeling washed over me when I first saw the images of the Hotel Xcaret swirling on social media several years ago. I combed through dozens of prospective dates, but it was booked solid and I had to let the dream of swimming through the turquoise waters of Xcaret’s stalactite-gilded underground rivers drift from my mind.

The first Xcaret (pronounced Ish-cah-ret) opened as a natural eco-park in 1990 in Playa del Carmen, a little more than an hour’s drive from Cancun International Airport. Architect Miguel Quintana Pali originally intended to build his dream home on the property, but as he started clearing the land for construction, he discovered cenotes, underground rivers and Mayan ruins on the site. Instead of keeping it for himself, he developed it into Mexico’s first eco-park and a tribute to his country and culture.

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View looking up from the cenote in the river swim at Xplor Park at Xcaret © Melissa Yeager / Lonely Planet

In recent years, the popular Grupo Xcaret’s portfolio has grown to include five theme parks and three luxury all-inclusive resorts that provide not only all your food, drink and activities on the property but also theme park entrance as well.

So when Xcaret invited me to check out the property, it was an immediate yes. But I wondered: would it live up to the hype? Would the theme parks be natural wonders or “Disney-fied” versions of the real thing? Here’s what I experienced.

Where did you stay? What was the vibe?

I stayed in the original Hotel Xcaret México resort – the largest of the properties with 900 rooms sprawled over five buildings, all recessed delicately among the lush river and beachfront landscape.

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River-level rooms at Hotel Xcaret México in Playa del Carmen allow guests to dive from their balcony and swim the river running through the resort © Melissa Yeager / Lonely Planet

With that many rooms, you would think the resort would feel crowded. And it does in the lobby, where you get a sense of just how many people are staying at this resort. However, the frenetic movement of people checking in and baggage delivery is confined to that area. Once you enter the stunning greenery and waterways of the resort, you often forget that this is a large place. It has a chic atmosphere and plenty of quiet places to relax.

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A chapel on a hill overlooks the ocean at Hotel Xcaret México © Melissa Yeager / Lonely Planet

The resort tries to match its guests to appropriate rooms by looking at the ages of people staying in the room. Often, they’ll group families with smaller children near each other and in places with activities suitable for those ages (there’s a wading pool with a nearby kid-friendly buffet and a bar with a view of the pool for parents). Meanwhile, they have an adults-only building (along with their adults-only property Hotel Xcaret Arte) with an exclusive rooftop pool boasting a bar and an Instagram-worthy clear tunnel to swim through.

Xcaret is a luxury, five-diamond resort with a price tag to match, ranging from US$650-1000 a night. But, before sticker shock sets in, I’d encourage you to do some math here to see if it is within your budget. Entrance fees for the parks and all activities on the resort (paddleboarding, kayaking, floating the river) are included along with your food, beverages (including alcohol), room service and transit to/from the airport.

Best thing you ate?

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A couple sitting under lanterns in the bar area of Cantina restaurant in Hotel Xcaret México © Melissa Yeager / Lonely Planet

The food at the resort is all-inclusive, and there are 35 restaurants available ranging from carts in multiple locations replicating Mexico’s beloved street food scene to a Mercado with handmade, fresh tortillas.

But one restaurant in particular stood out – HA’ (Maya for water). A creation of chef Carlos Gaytán, its seven-course tasting menu is newly minted with a Michelin star and is open to the public. The upcharge required to dine here is one of the few you’ll encounter in the resort.

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Escamoles (insect caviar) at HA’ in Hotel Xcaret México in Playa del Carmen © Melissa Yeager / Lonely Planet

It costs US$150, but if you love fine dining and wine, it’s an incredible experience considering the price point. Every round – the Wagyu, the Beignet, the Filet Mignon – is a culinary delight. However, the standout on the menu for me was the escamoles (insect caviar). Well-seasoned and tasty, it’s unique to this destination and a great introduction to insects if you’ve never tried them before.

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Stalactites above blue waters in the river swim at Xplor Park © Melissa Yeager / Lonely Planet

What was your favorite experience on the trip?

By far the rivers around the resort and in the Xplor park. It was the most tranquil experience. Suit up in a life jacket (and helmet at Xplor) and float. In Xplor, I loved the serenity of floating in the turquoise, transparent waters while admiring the stalactites decorating the ceiling overhead. The river was outdoors at the resort and floating was a great way to cool off on a hot afternoon and notice little details – a waterfall, a waterslide, hammocks in caves. It was a truly enchanting experience.

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View of the dock where the trajineras (gondolas) leave for the Xoximilco floating experience at Xcaret © Melissa Yeager / Lonely Planet

What was the most touristy thing you did?

Xoximilco. That’s not a typo. The “ch” has been replaced by the Xcaret “X” and yes, the evening, party-atmosphere boat float is inspired by the real floating gardens of Xochimilco, the UNESCO World Heritage site in Mexico City. The park does not try to be the same as the real Xochimilco (how could it be?) but aims to replicate the cultural and communal spirit of the original.

Having experienced both, I think the Xoximilco experience gives that same vibe of heading out on the trajineras (gondolas) for a day of celebration, but these are tailored to a luxury guest experience with much fancier vessels than the ones in CDMX – think coolers filled with beer, sodas and premixed cocktails and a three-course meal as well as the boat being cleaned between stops. Still, the experience replicates the warmth of community, music and dancing that makes the original such a memorable occasion.

The boats float to different stations hosting Mariachi and traditional Mexican music, while your guide encourages you to dance, eat and drink. If you’re traveling as a group, it would be a great way to kick off the trip.

What is the one thing that you did not expect?

So many joyful moments of sweet surprises dotted around the resort and parks. In the lobby, there’s a cart with popsicles. While floating in the river surrounding the resort, we discovered caves with hammocks and a hidden water slide. Relaxing at the pool, suddenly a band playing the xylophone appeared. In the Xenses theme park, we emerged from one of the attractions to discover a lemon tree where you could get a small cup of crisp, cool limonada to enjoy. These delights are spread around the resort like confetti, so make sure to keep your eyes open.

bridgeriverxcaretplayadelcarmenyeager.jpeg
Guests can swim in the rivers surrounding the Hotel Xcaret © Melissa Yeager / Lonely Planet

What was the handiest thing you packed?

Water shoes, an SPF shirt and a waterproof case for my phone. All came in useful multiple times. The SPF shirt freed me from having to endlessly reapply sunscreen while in the park.

My packing regret is not bringing some fast-drying shorts to wear at the theme parks. You’re moving from water slides and underground rivers to zip lines, and wearing shorts instead of swimsuit bottoms would have been much more comfortable.

Best tip for someone who wants to plan the same trip?

I have a few to share. First, book in advance. The property is proud of its high occupancy rates so plan ahead to get the dates you want.

Second, make your reservations for the spa and specialty restaurants early, as these fill up. Don’t worry, there are plenty of spots to eat, but if you want to get into one of the specialty places, think ahead.

Finally, take advantage of all the selfie cameras positioned around the resort. Scan your bracelet and the prepositioned camera will snap your photo. Then, when you go to your room at the end of the night, turn on the TV and the resort has a channel where you can view your photos. Grab a glass of wine and laugh with your travel companions at all your silly snapshots from the day.

Melissa stayed at Hotel Xcaret México and visited the related parks on an invitation from the resort. Lonely Planet does not accept freebies in exchange for positive reviews.

Treasure islands: the natural wonders of the Seychelles

Situated in the middle of the Indian Ocean, 400km northwest of Madagascar and over 1000km from the East African coast, the Seychelles is an ancient archipelago of 115 islands. While most travellers arrive trailing confetti and are content to just fly and flop on some of the world’s finest beaches, the islands possess natural wonders that hold far greater value.

Granite rock formations on Anse Source d’Argent beach, the island of La Digue, Seychelles
Granite rock formations on Anse Source d’Argent beach, the island of La Digue, Seychelles. Simon Dannhauer / Getty Images

Thousands of years of evolutionary isolation have created this treasure map of miniature worlds in the Seychelles, each with its own unique biological capital and habitats found nowhere else on the planet. When General Gordon of Khartoum visited in 1881 he returned to London claiming he had found the original site of the Garden of Eden – specifically, the Unesco World Heritage-listed Vallée de Mai on the island of Praslin, where a prehistoric palm forest shelters the legendary coco de mer.

A man stands beneath a coco de mer palm tree. He's looking up to its fronds that splay out and fille the sky. A very lush and verdant image.
The towering coco de mer palms sway in the depths of the Vallée de Mai. Justin Foulkes / Lonely Planet

Vallée de Mai, Praslin

A walk through the valley is a surreal experience akin to natural time travel. Here everything is supersized and the silence is sepulchral, broken only by bird calls from rare endemic species like the black parrot and the crimson-crested blue pigeon. When a breeze blows, one can hear the rasp of giant fronds high in the canopy as the 20 to 30m-high palms sway like metronomes beneath the weight – up to 40kg – of their voluptuous, double-nutted coco de mers. You half expect a dinosaur to appear out of the Rousseau-like canvas.

Local guide holding coco de mer seed, lush trees in the background.
A local guide in the Vallée de Mai holds the much sought-after coco de mer seed, a natural wonder that can weigh up to 40kg. Justin Foulkes / Lonely Planet

That the forest survives at all is a nothing short of a minor miracle. A second smaller indigenous forest on the nearby island of Curieuse nearly succumbed to 18th century botanical poaching, when the nut – worth its weight in gold at the time – was pillaged by British traders who subsequently set fire to the palms to ensure the highest price for their precious cargo. With its red soil largely laid bare the uninhabited island now provides a breeding centre for giant tortoises, which can weigh up to half a ton and appear like boulders beside the walking trails that crisscross the island.

A man descends a rock outcrop into a dense forest which carpets the hills in the distance
Hiking the trails within Morne Seychellois National Park opens up a world of interesting and rare flora. Justin Foulkes / Lonely Planet

Morne Seychellois National Park & Silhouette Island

Other rarities fill the Morne Seychellois National Park on the island of Mahé. To find relict species you need to hike the signposted trails up to the peaks of Trois Frères, Copolia and Morne Blanc where screw pines and koko maron meet granite boulders sculpted by a millennia of rainfall on to which cling critically endangered jellyfish trees and carnivorous pitcher plants. It’s highly likely that Morne Seychellois is home to the total world population of both the jellyfish tree and bwa-d-fer, the ironwood tree of which there are just 40 mature plants left in existence.

Deadly nature: looking like an ornate, greeny-yellow vase with a rolled tear-shaped rim and a leaf-like lid propped open, the carnivorous pitcher plant lies in wait for its next victim.
The innocuous-looking pitcher plant is actually carnivorous. Justin Foulkes / Lonely Planet

Dominating the view from the northwest of Mahé is the mist forest of pyramid-shaped Silhouette Island. The third largest island in the archipelago, it is considered a biodiversity hotspot with 93% of its area designated a national park and its surrounding waters a marine reserve. Most of the Seychelles 80 or so endemic trees and flowering plants can be found here along with the world’s only colony of sheath-tailed bats.

Pioneering ecological restoration in the Seychelles

The near natural state of the islands is thanks not only to their isolation, but stringent development controls. Aside from the 150 people who regularly reside on Silhouette, there are just two hotels. Awareness of the need to preserve the archipelago’s unique ecology has always been high here, but its becoming an increasing priority with new developmental and climate change pressures. As Dr. Frauke Fleischer-Dogley at the Seychelles Island Foundation explains, a key plank in the organisation’s new environmental thinking is the restoration of ecosystem integrity.

To see the success of this approach, you need only visit the island of Félicité. As part of their lease, the Six Senses have actively committed to restoring the ecology of the 264-hectare island. In order to do this, island ecologist Steve Hill has already spent nine years clearing invasive species such as coco plum so that endemic flora can re-establish itself and native fauna, such as the black paradise flycatcher, can return. Steve is even hopeful for the collection of ironwood saplings in his nursery. If he can nurture even a few of them to maturity, it will be an act of inestimable environmental value.

George, one of the oldest giant tortoises, stands and lifts his head as a local guide crouches beside him in the forest and strokes his long neck
A guide saying hello to George who is thought to be one of the eldest giant tortoises in the country. Justin Foulkes / Lonely Planet

Nature’s own islands

Steve’s bold promise that Félicité will be ‘nature’s own island’, is not a hollow boast given the work he’s already done on other islands such as Cerf and Frégate, the latter now home to the largest population of Seychelles magpie robins, fodies and blue pigeons, and the second largest population of giant tortoises – over 2200 – in the archipelago. Celebrities and royalty consider Frégate one of the world’s ultimate eco-hideaways. Who can argue with them when Robinson Crusoe was filmed here in 1988?

Other environmentally-minded island custodians such as the Seychelles Island Conservation Society, Bird Life International, Wilderness Safaris and Mason Travel have undertaken equally valuable restoration work on Aride, Cousin, North and Denis islands respectively. Take a trip to either Aride or Cousin and you’ll be amazed by woodlands thick with hundreds of thousands of land and sea birds, including the huge, oceanic stealth-bomber, the frigate. Beside the multitude of birds on Cousin, a globally significant population of Hawksbill turtles (subjects of the world’s longest running monitoring programme) heave themselves ashore between August and April to lay their eggs.

Hawksbill sea turtle swimming in Indian ocean in Seychelles
A globally-significant population of hawksbill turtles nests in various islands of Seychelles. Alexander Shalamov / Getty Images

The Coralline Islands

Already successful in creating parks and reserves on nearly half of Seychelles’ land area, the government are now working to protect 30% of the 1.3 million sq km marine territory. The brain corals, purple-lipped clams and giant cowrie shells threaded with brightly coloured fish around Curieuse and Île Cocos create underwater gardens every bit as beautiful as those on land. Hawksbill turtles are frequent visitors here, as well as on Denis Island, which sits at the northern end of the Seychelles plateau where the surrounding deep waters are dense with big game fish such as dog-toothed tuna and galatea.

But the marine spectacle of the inner granitic islands pales in comparison to the outer, coralline islands which lie scattered 250-1200km southwest of the Mahé. Here in an impossibly blue sea, surrounded by coral reefs and rich, warm currents, marine life abounds. The lagoon at the centre of St Joseph Atoll supports a huge population of stingrays as well as giant blue mud crabs. While Alphonse and St Francois are considered by many to offer the best saltwater fly fishing in the world – their waters are teeming with bonefish, milkfish, giant trevally, lemon sharks, tiger sharks and groupers so huge they can fit a man’s head in their mouth.

Most remote of all is the almost mythic island of Aldabra, an island of such environmental value that it forms a baseline for scientists and conservationists around the world who visit to see what the world once looked like. Here the marine biomass is an extraordinary six tonnes per hectare, as opposed to the half-tonne that is present in the marine reserves around Mahé, and the island is the only place on the planet where reptiles – over 150,000 giant tortoises – still dominate the ecosystem. A brass plaque, installed in 1982, when the atoll was finally recognized by Unesco, provides a fitting accolade: ‘Aldabra, wonder of nature given to humanity by the people of the Republic of Seychelles’.

Paula Hardy travelled to Seychelles with the support of Seychelles Tourism Board. Lonely Planet contributors don’t accept freebies for positive coverage.

8 stunning day trips from Lucerne, Switzerland

Encircled by mountains of myth and sitting astride the shores of its eponymous lake of bluest blue, Lucerne is every bit as gorgeous as it was back in the 19th century when Goethe, Wagner and Queen Victoria eulogised its beauty.

Slow travel comes naturally here, with boats, trains and cable cars breezing across the lake and up to nearby Alpine heights. From the birthplace of the nation to sky-scraping glaciers, here are our picks for the best days out from Lucerne.

1. Float on the jewel-colored waters of Lake Uri

Travel time: 1 hour 

Switzerland heart in every possible sense of the word, Lake Lucerne’s southernmost arm, Lake Uri, is its most ravishing. At times as narrow as a fjord, Lake Uri’s jewel-colored green-blue waters give way to forested cliffs and peaks that rise sheer and rugged.

Cruise these waters and you’ll glimpse Rütli Meadow, hallowed birthplace of the Swiss Confederation as the spot where the Oath of Eternal Allegiance was signed in 1291. Nearby is the Tellskapelle, a little chapel ensconced in woods, where the apple-shooting hero and Swiss rebel William Tell is said to have leaped to safety from the boat of his Hapsburg captor, Gessler.

Myths abound, too, at the Schillerstein, a near 30m-high natural obelisk jutting up above the lake. Its inscription pays homage to Friedrich Schiller, the author of the play William Tell.

How to reach Lake Uri: Boat is the way to go to really see Lake Uri. Take SGV’s regular ferry service from Brunnen to Flüelen (44 minutes). Trains link Lucerne to Brunnen (46 minutes) and Flüelen (one hour).

Swiss view on the Jungfrau with Swiss chalet and flag
Swiss view on the Jungfrau, Bernese Alps. Micaël Chevalley/500px

2. Hike waterfalls and high-Alpine moors in Meiringen

Travel time: 1 hour

Tucked away in the eastern corner of Switzerland’s Bernese Oberland region, Meiringen has a phenomenally beautiful backyard, with hiking and cycling trails leading to wild valleys, waterfalls and high-Alpine moors.

Get an early train for time to see both of its big-hitting natural wonders. First up is the 250m-high Reichenbach Falls, which plummets over sheer, wooded cliff faces with a deafening roar. You can see how author Arthur Conan Doyle thought it the perfect backdrop for a dramatic finale: in The Final Problem, he pushed both Sherlock Holmes and Dr. Moriarty over the precipice here.

The Aare Gorge is just as riveting, with tunnels and galleries wending past milky-blue torrents and limestone overhangs.

Stay for more than a day to delve deeper into the Hasli Valley – to see the Triftbrücke, Europe’s highest (100m) and longest (170m) suspension bridge, dangling precariously over the Trift Glacier, for instance, or the waterfall-laced glacier gorge of Rosenlaui.

How to reach Meiringen: Meiringen is a 50-minute drive south of Lucerne via the A8. There are hourly trains to Meiringen (1 hour 10 minutes).

Cogwheel train passing mountain landscape of Mount Pilatus in the Swiss Alps, near Lucerne
Cogwheel train passing mountain landscape of Swiss Alps.Red train on cog railway between Mount Pilatus and Alpnachstad near Lucerne. iStockphoto/Getty Images

3. Climb Mt Pilatus on the world’s steepest cog railway

Travel time: day-long trip

Mountains and valleys seem to ripple into infinity from the 2128m peak of Mt Pilatus, where the restless ghost of Roman prefect Pontius Pilate is said to roam. As the legend goes, his corpse was thrown into a lake at the summit and he has haunted these parts ever since – hence the name.

Reached by the world’s steepest cog railway since 1889, with a gradient of 48%, the mountain is an easy and insanely scenic day trip from Lucerne. Getting here would have been more of an effort back in the 19th century when Wagner waxed lyrical about Pilatus’ views and Queen Victoria trotted up here on horseback. But the exhilarating views on the walking trail are little changed: reaching across the lake, deep into the Swiss Alps and as far as Germany’s Black Forest on clear days.

How to reach Mt Pilatus: From May to October, you can reach Mt Pilatus on a “golden round-trip” day excursion, a combination of boat, cogwheel railway, cable car and bus.

4. Witness a blazing sunrise or sunset from Mt Rigi

Travel time: 1.5 hours

Puckering up between lakes Lucerne and Zug, the 1797m peak of Mt Rigi is well known for its blazing sunrises and sunsets. Turner was so smitten with the outlook and the singular quality of the light that in 1842 he painted the mountain in watercolors at three different times of day (Blue Rigi, Dark Rigi and Red Rigi).

Europe’s oldest mountain railway – celebrating its 150th anniversary in 2021 – hauls you to the summit, where the view is extraordinary, stretching across both lakes to Mt Titlis and the glaciated peaks of the Jungfrau massif. On clear days, you can see 24 of Switzerland’s 26 cantons. There’s terrific high-level hiking up here in summer on 120km of marked trails, as well as low-key skiing, snowshoeing and sledding in winter.

If you’d prefer a swim or massage with a sublime view, head over to the Mario Botta-designed Mineralbad & Spa Rigi Kaltbad.

How to reach Mt Rigi: Frequent trains run to Vitznau (one hour) and Goldau (32 minutes), where you can connect with cogwheel railways to Rigi Kulm (32 minutes and 44 minutes respectively).

Tandem paragliding in Swiss Alps. Silhouettes of paragliders and beautiful mountains. Extreme sport, adventure sports.
Have a go at tandem paragliding in Swiss Alps, or maybe just watch the spectacle from a mountainside. Petr Pohudka/Shutterstock

5. Head to Brunnen for paragliding, sailing and kitesurfing

Travel time: 45 minutes

Cradled in the folds of jagged mountains, where Lake Lucerne narrows as it turns sharply south, Brunnen’s quayside is quite the Alpine dream. Turner was so impressed by the view while sojourning here that he painted The Bay of Uri from Brunnen in 1841. When the Föhn wind sweeps down from the peaks, conditions are ideal for sports on and above the water: from sailing to paragliding, windsurfing and kitesurfing. Should you fancy a walk instead, hook onto a section of the 35km, two-day Swiss Path around Lake Uri.

Not only the surrounding peaks offer knife-edge perspectives. Victorinox hails from these parts and the Swiss Knife Valley Museum tells you all about it, with a fascinating romp through the history of knives. The highlight, however, is the chance to build your own Swiss Army Knife (a process of just 15 minutes).

How to reach Brunnen: Brunnen is a 40-minute drive south of Lucerne via the A4, or take one of the regular trains (45 minutes to one hour).

Swiss Alps
Alps, Central-Switzerland, Green, Lake, Mountains, Schweiz, Switzerland, Uri, Vierwaldst0ttersee, Vierwaldstättersee, Vierwaldst‰ttersee, clouds, sky, swiss, landscape, horizon, nature, outdoors, shadow
Zip to Engelberg for some alpine hiking with stunning views. Georg Infanger/500px

6. Try winter skiing or high-altitude hiking at Engelberg

Travel time: 45 minutes

As if cupped in celestial hands, Engelberg (literally “Angel Mountain”) wings you straight to Alpine heaven with its ragged backdrop of glacier-streaked peaks punching well above the 3000m mark. When the flakes fall in winter, skiers and boarders descend on the resort, eager to make fresh tracks in off-piste powder. In summer, these mountains offer mile upon joyous mile of high-altitude hikes.

The icing on the cake is 3238m, glacier-topped Mt Titlis, Central Switzerland’s tallest mountain, home to the world’s first revolving cable car, which soars above the deeply crevassed ice. With Alps as far as the eye can see, views from the top are staggering, especially if you brave the Cliff Walk, Europe’s highest suspension bridge. Get an early start to avoid the glacier is at its busiest.

How to reach Engelberg: Engelberg is a 40-minute drive south of Lucerne via the A2. There are hourly fast trains linking Lucerne to Engelberg (43 minutes).

Visitors in wooden deck chairs above snow-capped mountains on the sun terrace atop Stanserhorn Mountain
Snow-capped mountains on the sun terrace atop Stanserhorn Mountain. Shutterstock

7. Ride the funicular and summit Stanserhorn

Travel time: 25 minutes

Flinging up to the south of Lucerne, Stanserhorn is one of the easiest and quickest ways to get high above the lake. From the 1898m summit, an intricate tapestry of mountains, lakes, fields and forests unfurls. Getting there is half the fun, involving a quaintly old-fashioned ride in an 1893 funicular to Kälti, where the double-decker CabriO cable car takes over, swinging up another 1100m in just 6½ minutes. This is the world’s first cable car with a roofless upper deck and it can get mighty breezy up top.

At the summit, there are plenty of big-view hiking trails and hang-gliding and paragliding when conditions allow. The Stanserhorn Rangers give the inside scoop on everything from wildflowers to where to spot eagles and marmots.

How to reach Stanserhorn: Stanserhorn is a 25-minute drive south of Lucerne via the A2. Frequent trains make the same journey in 13 minutes. From here, a funicular rises to the summit from mid-April to early November.

8. Join pilgrims visiting Einsiedeln from afar

Travel time: 1 hour

When Lucerne is rammed on summer weekends, Einsiedeln, hidden away at the end of a valley and framed by gentle wooded hills, makes a peaceful day trip. Pilgrims come from afar to this small town, which is Switzerland’s answer to Lourdes. According to legend, the Bishop of Constance tried to consecrate the original monastery in AD 964, but was interrupted by a heavenly voice, declaring: “Desist. God himself has consecrated this building.”

Whether or not you believe in miracles, the 18th-century Klosterkirche abbey church is magnificent, with its opulent frenzy of frescoes, stucco, marble, and gold swirls. Pilgrims pray before the tiny statue of the Black Madonna. For a view over the abbey to the hills beyond, trudge up to the Statue of St Benedikt.

How to reach Einsiedeln: Einsiedeln is an hour’s drive east of Lucerne via the A14. There are twice hourly trains (1¼ hours).

The best ways to travel around in Denmark

Venture beyond the cool capital Copenhagen and explore more of Denmark. Historic towns, fairy-tale castles, charming islands and sandy beaches are among the many places you could visit, and with relatively short distances and excellent transport links, luckily, that’s easy to do.

Most of Denmark’s cities are compact, walkable and great for biking. Not only is it fun and fast, it’s a great way to immerse yourself in a quintessential part of Danish culture. Meanwhile, public transportation is straightforward to navigate. From electrified trams and metro lines to battery-powered boats and buses, it’s affordable, reliable, and often green. Trains are the best way to travel cross country, but there are also long-distance and local bus networks, as well as convenient but more expensive car rentals.

From bikes to buses, here’s our advice for the best ways to get around Denmark.

Family and their bikes at Stubbekobing Havn (harbour) waiting for the ferry
Denmark has an extensive ferry network. Daniel Villadsen

Ditch the car for pedal power

It’s often joked that Danes are born on the back of a bike. Cycling isn’t just a hobby here; it’s a way of life. Nine out of ten people own a bicycle, and across Denmark, there are over 12,000km (7456 mile) of cycling routes, with 400km (250 miles) of bike paths in Copenhagen alone. The Nordic nation ranks as one of the world’s most bicycle-friendly countries, with excellent infrastructure such as special cycle superhighways and traffic lights, bike-only bridges, and even trash cans that are angled for cyclists to use while on the move. Half of Copenhageners commute by bike, and in the capital, it’s often the quickest way to get around.

For visitors, pedaling about on two wheels is not only enjoyable but also sustainable, and helpfully much of the country is rather flat.

Bike rental is widely available

Rental shops are plentiful, most of the bigger cities have local bike-sharing schemes and many hotels lend bicycles to guests for free. Meanwhile, the rental app Donkey Republic operates in several locations across Denmark, including Copenhagen, Aarhus and Roskilde, with its distinctive orange bikes that can handily be picked up and dropped off in different places.

A woman riding a cargo bike in Nyhavn, Copenhagen.
Biking is one of the best ways to get around cities like Copenhagen and Aarhus. Viggo Lundberg

Ride the railways for longer distance journeys

Taking the train is recommended for longer journeys and is a great way to travel beyond the capital. There’s a good network of regular train services connecting Denmark’s major cities and smaller towns. Early-bird discounts or “orange” tickets are available when booking well ahead. Note you need to reserve places for bikes and strollers in advance. However, you can take your bike anytime for free on Copenhagen’s S-tog (suburban rail) network.

Tip: It’s recommended to purchase a seat reservation. Trains are a very popular mode of transport, and carriages soon fill up, so it’s worth paying the small extra fee to guarantee a spot, especially for longer journeys.

Download some travel apps in advance

For the best routes, times and prices across trains, metros, buses and ferries, Rejseplanen is a must for travelers. Similarly, Denmark’s train provider, DSB, has an easy-to-use booking app for purchasing digital train tickets. It also now allows you to tap in and out at stations using your phone rather than a physical railcard. The DOT app is another go-to for buying on-the-day tickets.

Get a Rejsekort travel card

To save money on fares, it’s well worth getting a Rejsekort. You can use it across all public transport nationwide, and it’s cheaper than purchasing a paper ticket. Tourists can purchase a Rejsekort Anonymous card for 80kr ($12 USD), which can be topped up on the go. Do remember to both tap in and tap out against the Blue Point at the ‘check ind’ (check in) signs in transport stations. Press your card against the machine and wait until you hear the beep.

There’s a great bus network too

Buses are a convenient option in Denmark’s cities, and even smaller towns and countryside villages are well connected by regular services. Use Rejseplanen to find routes, timetables and fares, and purchase tickets online or use the Rejsekort travel card.

For long distance intercity journeys, FlixBus is an affordable alternative to taking the train.  

Cobblestone street in Denmark with bikes parked outside homes.
If you need to rent a car, you can go through an agency, use a car-sharing app or borrow one directly from its owners. Shutterstock

Car rentals are convenient but pricey

Hiring a car is a flexible and convenient way to get around, but it can also prove pricey in Denmark. Unlimited mileage often isn’t included, while the cost of fueling up and expensive bridge tolls can soon add up.

All the main airports have car rental desks, and bigger cities also have downtown offices; however, the best deals are usually found through international or third-party booking sites like Autoeurope, Kemwel and Expedia.

In major cities like Copenhagen and Aarhus, you can use car-sharing apps like Green Mobility, which rents EVs by the minute or per hour. For smaller places, GoMore is widely available and works like an Airbnb for car rentals, where you can book and borrow private vehicles directly from their owners.

It is easy to drive an electric car in Denmark

Going electric is a greener and increasingly popular option on Danish roads, especially for shorter distances. These days, plugging in and charging up is a relative breeze, with an ever-growing number of charge points dotted around the country. Most are provided by Eon and Clever, and you’ll need to down their apps for access.

If you do need a cab in Copenhagen, you can reduce your carbon footprint by booking with taxi firm Viggo, which only uses electric cars, or Drivr, which has a zero-emission fleet running on green hydrogen.

Bikes parked on a ferry in Denmark
Denmark’s ferry network connects many islands to the mainland and extends to international destinations including Sweden, Germany, Iceland and Norway. Freya McOmish, Scandinavia Standard

Domestic flights aren’t usually necessary 

Despite its small size, Denmark has several airports, but for most journeys, flying isn’t really necessary. Among the most popular domestic routes, SAS and Norwegian fly between Aalborg and Copenhagen, while DAT connects various regional airports with Bornholm, a Danish island in the Baltic and a popular summer getaway. Taking off from the water right in the heart of Copenhagen’s harbor, Nordic Seaplanes operate the short hop to Aarhus. Meanwhile, the Faroe Islands, a Danish territory in the Atlantic, are two-hours away by air and Atlantic Airways and SAS operate several flights daily.

Explore the Danish coastline by ferry

Denmark’s coastline is punctuated by well over 400 islands. While Zealand, Funen and Bornholm, are large, there are many charming little isles well worth exploring and among the loveliest are Ærø, Fanø, Læsø, and Samsø. Many islands have ferry connections, and sitting on the top deck while enjoying the sea breezes and blissful scenery is truly a delight. Booking could be simpler, though. In most cases, each route has its own individual booking website.

Major routes include fast hydrofoil that links Jutland with Denmark’s main island of Zealand, and the large express boat that sails to Bornholm from Ystad in southern Sweden. International routes also link Denmark with Norway, Sweden, Germany and the Faroe Islands.  If you’re heading to Ærø, check out the battery-powered ferry, Ellen, which charges up with electricity from wind and solar. 

Tip: Book well in advance if you want to take a car. Spots fill up fast in summer months when Danish and German holidaymakers head to the islands. Getting on board as a foot passenger usually isn’t a problem.

Accessible travel is good on trains and buses in Denmark 

With accessibility improving all the time, Denmark is a destination that shouldn’t hold you back. Trains and buses do cater for wheelchair-users and stations are fitted with ramps and lifts. Conveniently the elevators at Copenhagen’s metro take you straight from street level to the platform. In more rural areas, however, the older ferries are sometimes less well-equipped.

Celebrating Sustainable Spain

Sun-dappled coastlines, soulful creative arts, famously terrific gastronomy – welcome to one of the globe’s most-loved travel destinations, now also an emerging leader in developing sustainable tourism.

In recent years, Spain has been taking important strides to put sustainability at the forefront of its long-established tourism industry, which pulled in more than 85 million visitors in 2023. This Mediterranean-hugging beauty has been working hard to spread tourism well beyond high season for years, encouraging off-season travel while also highlighting lesser-known regions and pushing forward a wealth of sustainability-driven projects.

Destinations all over Spain are now striving to achieve more balanced tourism models, such as the Balearic Islands, which have introduced a wave of circular tourism initiatives. Several Spanish cities have also outlined plans to achieve climate neutrality by 2030, including Madrid, Valladolid, Vitoria-Gasteiz, Zaragoza and Valencia, which was crowned European Green Capital for 2024.

In other news, flight-free transport across Spain is booming, from electric urban buses to brand-new train routes; creative and adventure projects are helping to revitalize rural regions; more and more travelers are choosing to sidestep the high season; and single-use plastics (such as straws, cutlery and cups) have been banned in Spain since 2023 as part of EU-wide regulations. And the Canary Islands are investing massively in water power and wind farms, with wind power growing by almost 140 percent in recent years. No surprise then that Lonely Planet named Spain one of our 2024 Best In Travel destinations for sustainability.

Embark on a trip from Atocha Station in Madrid and you know you’re doing your part to travel sustainably; The Costa Verde Express train offers passengers breathtaking views of the Cantabrian Sea and lush landscapes between Ferrol and Viveiro. Emilio Parra Doiztua for Lonely Planet; James Jackman for Lonely Planet

Flight-free travel

Spain has one of the largest high-speed rail networks in the world, with reliable, locally popular trains whizzing across most of the country in just a few hours. Getting from, say, Barcelona or Málaga to Madrid in under three hours is a breeze, though there are also plenty of more leisurely routes where soaking up the scenery at a slower pace is half the fun. These days, train travel across Spain is a joy as you watch the landscapes morph from endless olive groves into quiet sprawling plains before glimpsing jagged peaks in the distance from the comfort of your seat. Book ahead to secure your desired route and bag the best prices.

The national electric-powered rail operator Renfe (which runs the incredibly on-time high-speed AVE trains) now shares space with other low-cost rail companies such as Ouigo and Iryo, which means prices and route options are kept refreshingly accessible. Over the last few years, a wave of fresh itineraries has opened up rail travel even more, benefitting both local communities and travelers. New AVE services now run to/from Murcia on the east coast, between Madrid and Oviedo (Asturias) since 2023 and also between Madrid and various cities in Galicia.

And for anyone traveling to the beautiful, beachy Balearic Islands off Spain’s east coast, a fleet of convenient ferries connects mainland ports like Barcelona, Valencia and Dénia with Palma de Mallorca, Ibiza and beyond.

The Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela is the last stop for many travelers who made the pilgrimage on the Camino de Santiago. After a journey for some of more than 500 miles, the joy at the finish line is palpable. James Jackman for Lonely Planet

Low-impact explorations

Heading out hiking is one of the most rewarding and low-impact activities you can enjoy in Spain. Not only will exploring on foot take you to often-overlooked rural areas, but it also inevitably leads you off the beaten track – whether you’re walking through the mountainous wilds of the Spanish Pyrenees in Catalonia’s lake-dotted Parc Nacional d’Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici or weaving between remote villages in the rugged Alpujarras near Granada.

Even those walking the famed Camino de Santiago all the way to Galicia can swap the classic-but-busy Camino Francés for lesser-known routes such as the Camino del Norte (which tracks across Spain’s green north) or the wonderfully rewarding Camino Primitivo from Oviedo (said to be the original Camino).

The Vías Verdes network in Spain consists of abandoned railway lines that have been converted into recreational trails for cycling and hiking.
The Vías Verdes network in Spain consists of abandoned railway lines that have been converted into recreational trails for cycling and hiking. Blake Horn for Lonely Planet

Cycling in Spain is hugely popular too, from gentle routes along the celebrated Vías Verdes – disused train lines that have ingeniously been reimagined as cycling, walking and horse riding routes – to epic mountain-biking adventures for experienced riders. Many of Spain’s most-loved cities have also thoroughly embraced cycling culture, with ever-expanding networks of bike lanes and other handy resources.

Some bike-share programs are designed mostly for residents (rather than visitors), but local bike-hire operators abound. Best-known for urban adventures on two wheels is sunny Valencia, where cycling among the lush greenery of the former Túria riverbed – now transformed into the Jardín del Túria park – ranks among the city’s favorite pastimes.

Hiking the Ruta del Cares is an unforgettable experience in the heart of the Picos de Europa. Coke Bartrina for Lonely Planet

Protected spaces

Much of Spain remains wild, natural and undeveloped, home to a richly varied collection of officially protected landscapes that burst with outdoor adventures. Spain was a European pioneer in creating its first national parks all the way back in 1918 when Aragón’s Parque Nacional de Ordesa y Monte Perdido and the Parque Nacional de la Montaña de Covadonga (the predecessor to the northern Parque Nacional Picos de Europa) were both established. Now there are more than 1,600 officially protected natural spaces spread across the country, including 16 beloved parques nacionales (national parks) and more than 150 parques naturales (natural parks).

Spain’s conservation efforts are importantly benefitting local wildlife too. Take the threatened quebrantahuesos (bearded vulture), which has seen such an astonishing recovery in recent years that you might now glimpse it soaring high above the Pyrenees. Then there’s the Iberian lynx, which over the last couple of decades has been almost miraculously brought back from the brink of extinction in Andalucía. With luck, lynx can occasionally be spotted again in the magical Parque Nacional de Doñana on the Huelva-Cádiz border or in Jaén’s remote Parque Natural Sierra de Andújar.

Fabulous food (and wine)

It’s no secret that Spain is one of the world’s culinary capitals, from ever-growing numbers of cutting-edge Michelin-star restaurants to laid-back kitchens serving beloved regional recipes that have been cooked locally for centuries. Many of the country’s top restaurants are rooted in fresh, seasonal and often organic produce. As of 2024, Spain has 49 Green Michelin Stars, which are awarded to gastronomic ventures putting sustainability front and center. Alternatively, seek out restaurants that follow a Slow Food ethos, especially in Catalonia, where the movement is particularly lively and takes in several superb Barcelona kitchens.

Wherever you go in Spain, all things food often start with the local market, whether it’s a buzzy neighborhood mercado or a pop-up farmers market drawing producers from surrounding towns. Even in the most popular cities (like Barcelona and Madrid), a visit to the market is almost guaranteed to offer a glimpse into neighborhood life while also introducing you to all kinds of seasonal specialties and flavors. And in Spain’s booming world of wines, many vineyards are now turning to organic and biodynamic growing and reviving traditional regional grapes that exist only here.

On your Spanish food adventures, don’t miss the chance to meet some of the country’s famed small-scale producers. These gastronomic businesses are often family operations going back centuries, so while tasting that sliver of tangy cheese or wafer-thin slice of jamón, you’re also directly supporting the local community. Many Spanish queserías (cheese farms), for example, now offer tours, tastings and even expert-led classes for visitors to learn the craft themselves.

Parador de Alárcon in Castilla-La Mancha was built more than 1,300 years ago by the Visigoth King Alaric. It has been repurposed into unique accommodations. Jack Pearce for Lonely Planet; Blake Horn for Lonely Planet

Green stays

Restored ancient castles, peaceful self-sufficient farmhouses, stylishly converted mansions – this is just a taste of Spain’s blossoming responsible accommodation scene, which often involves sensitively reviving evocative ancient buildings. Today a growing number of properties all over the country are working hard to become more sustainable on both an environmental and social level, including Spain’s state-run Paradores chain. Specializing in bringing new life to beautiful historical buildings (along with a few bold contemporary creations), Paradores has been leading the way in green accommodation, with all of its accommodations running exclusively on renewable energy since 2018.

But there’s also a dazzling choice of inspiring independent places to stay with a responsible ethos across Spain, whether you’re looking for a low-key family-owned guesthouse driving rural tourism, a bioclimatic design property by the sea or a stylish agroturismo built from a centuries-old finca. Seek out accommodation that revolves around positive-impact initiatives like on-site gardens for restaurant ingredients, ensuring all amenities are plastic-free, connecting guests with surrounding communities and employing local staff.

Enjoy sangria on Barceloneta Beach without the crowds in low season. Blake Horn for Lonely Planet

Loving low season

There’s never been a better time to savor Spain in all its off-season beauty. Skipping the peak tourism months and exploring during shoulder or even low season means you’ll automatically be sidestepping most of the summer crowds (and prices). Winter months like January and February can be richly rewarding for quieter city breaks that still involve seaside lunches in the sun (just ask anyone living in Barcelona or Valencia!), while spring is ideal for hiking and other outdoor pursuits, with wildflowers blooming all over the Spanish countryside. Autumn beach breaks are blossoming, too, with enjoyable swimming in the Mediterranean perfectly possible in September and October (sometimes even later in the year).

On the flip side, more and more businesses are now staying open throughout the traditional low (winter) season, and off-season transport connections are being constantly improved.

The Mirandaola Ironworks is one of the oldest foundries in the Basque Country. Workers here still wear outfits from the 16th century.
The Mirandaola Ironworks is one of the oldest foundries in the Basque Country. Workers here still wear outfits from the 16th century. Blake Horn for Lonely Planet

Cultural riches

Home to one of the world’s highest numbers of UNESCO-recognized tangible and intangible assets, Spain is a leader in cultural preservation efforts. Remarkable Roman ruins, Islamic-era castles, medieval cities and Modernista mansions are just a few of the architectural treasures that jostle for attention as you travel across the country. Some of Europe’s finest museums and galleries, meanwhile, await discovery in culture-loving places like Bilbao, Barcelona, Madrid, Málaga and Mallorca.

Over on the cultural stage, flamenco – awarded Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity status by UNESCO back in 2010 – ranks among Spain’s most renowned performance arts. This feisty fusion of dance, song and guitar is best experienced in its Andalucian heartland and birthplace, around Cádiz, Jerez and Seville, though there are also great flamenco scenes in Granada, Madrid, Barcelona and beyond.

Flamenco, a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity designee, ranks among Spain’s most renowned performance arts. It's just one of many cultural riches preserved in Spain.
Flamenco, a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity designee, ranks among Spain’s most renowned performance arts. It’s just one of many cultural riches preserved in Spain. Blake Horn for Lonely Planet

And wherever you go across Spain, there’s a strong, proud heritage of regional artisanal crafts – basketry, ceramics, needlework, shoe-making. Picking up pieces directly from local artisans or independent shops showcasing their work is a great way to support these ancient crafts, many of which date back centuries. Some contemporary artisans are now putting their own spin on things with fresh designs, while an ever-growing number of creative classes and workshops gets you behind the scenes with the experts themselves to learn the secrets of these distinctively Spanish arts.

Most Spanish destinations have been improving accessibility, including the Recinte Modernista de Sant Pau.
Most Spanish destinations have been improving accessibility, including the Recinte Modernista de Sant Pau. Blake Horn for Lonely Planet

Access for everyone

In recent years, most Spanish destinations have been making huge efforts to improve accessibility, especially in the worlds of travel, tourism and hospitality. Many local tourist boards now offer wheelchair-accessible guided tours or adapted itineraries for travelers with disabilities. Almost all of Spain’s 15 UNESCO-designated cities have created accessible routes for travelers to explore their historic centers, from riverside Córdoba (with its splendid Islamic architecture) to lovely Cáceres (home to one of the country’s most mesmerizing old towns).

Major monuments are also upping their game with all kinds of accessible experiences, including Madrid’s marvelous Museo del Prado and several unmissable Gaudí buildings in Barcelona, such as Casa Batlló. Tactile experiences, descriptive tours and sensory activities are all part of the package.

Explore ruins in Mérida, or take in Torre Bujaco in Cáceres. Anyone who loves Spain has their own favorite offbeat pocket of the country. Blake Horn for Lonely Planet

Exploring off the beaten track

Anyone who loves Spain has their own favorite offbeat pocket of the country, whether it’s a hidden velvety beach on the Costa de la Luz or a wonderfully green wind-lashed cape on the Bay of Biscay. Stepping beyond the big sights and top tourism destinations is your ticket to Spain’s richly diverse soul, so devoting a trip entirely to a lesser-known region or perhaps combining a popular city with a deep dive into quieter surrounding areas always feels immensely rewarding.

Among our top under-the-radar picks is Extremadura, hugging the Portuguese border, which remains little-known among international visitors despite its stash of cultural, culinary and natural wonders. Enamored Spaniards rave about the region’s exquisite jamón, scattered timeworn villages, remote cherry-filled valleys and dynamic inland cities, which include some of Spain’s finest Roman ruins in the regional capital Mérida.

When you should visit Portland, Oregon

People who love Portland, Oregon will tell you to embrace the rain.

A reliable condition in the city from October to June, the rain is what makes the city so green, coating the trees and sidewalks in moss – and it’s why flowers bloom here nearly year-round. A good rain jacket and waterproof walking shoes are all you need to make the most of a rainy day. And when the sun finally comes out, the city sparkles. 

So should you visit for the rain or sun? At any time, you’ll find cozy coffee shops and cocktail bars, endless culinary delights, muddy or dry trails shaded by thick evergreen trees, and neighborhoods bursting with personality. Elements of every season in Portland contribute to the city’s moody vibe and vibrant personality. So whichever season you pick, you’ll likely want to make a return visit during another. 

A bicyclist rides down Tom McCall Waterfront Park on a wet spring day in Portland, Oregon. Blossoming cherry trees on to the left and the Willamette River to the right.
Spring in Portland can be wet, it’s true – but all that rain brings glorious flowers. Joel Carillet/Getty Images

Catch a rainbow of blooms from March to May 

While you’ll see blooming flowers at surprising times of the year in Portland, mid-March marks the most dramatic explosion of colors – namely, when the city’s beloved cherry trees come to life. The most famous and dramatic stretch of these blossoms is in downtown Portland, along the Willamette River, where the pedestrian path suddenly and briefly gets draped in heavy, pink branches. But these aren’t the only showstoppers in town. 

Visit Washington Park’s Japanese Garden for another popular yet serene cherry-tree tableau. Thanks to Portland’s close ties with its sister city, Sapporo, and a stunning 2017 expansion by world-renowned architect Kengo Kuma, this garden is a true homage to Japanese culture. Washington Park is also home to Portland’s famous International Rose Test Garden, which starts budding in April. (The bushes fully bloom come June.)

Crystal Springs Rhododendron Garden in Southeast Portland is a lesser-known but delightful place for bloom-spotting, with nine acres’ worth of rare species of rhododendrons and azaleas. These hearty shrubs can open as early as February, and peak in late April. Hoyt Arboretum also sees springtime blooms.

Portland’s beloved donut shops deliver equally colorful results. An iconic pink box of Voodoo Donuts will add another pop of color to your snaps of the cherry blossoms. Donut connoisseurs will point you to other shops that focus on freshly baked and perfectly flavored fried pastries, like Pip’s Original Doughnuts and Chai, Blue Star and Coco Donuts. 

The Portland Rose Festival serves as the unofficial kickoff to summer. The festivities comprise some 60 events starting in late May, including dragon-boat races, carnival rides, concerts, art shows and parades, including the iconic Grand Floral Parade through Portland’s Central Eastside.  

An overhead view of people walking along a path through ferns and redwoods at Hoyt Arboretum, Portland, Oregon, USA
In the warm, dry summer months, Portland’s urban forests and parks await exploration. Shutterstock

June to September is best for hiking and outdoor dining 

Summer in Portland is a smorgasbord of color and activity, which takes place on peaceful hiking trails, in verdant parks and all over lively city streets. After an inevitably long, wet spring, people are ready to be outside. 

Prepare for crowds in this peak tourist season. Patios fill up fast. Lines form for favorite summer spots like Salt & Straw ice cream. And parking lots overflow at entrances to Forest Park, the largest wooded urban park in the country, where you can hike on over 80 miles (129km) of trails. 

There are countless chances to enjoy nature on long walks in the city, including the short ascent up Mt Tabor, the city’s dormant cinder cone. Take the stairs to the top for a sweeping view of the city, then wander down Hawthorne Blvd, where you’ll find plentiful dive bars with patios, including the delightfully tacky Space Room Lounge. 

Farther to the southeast, head to Powell Butte Nature Park for gently rolling hiking trails and views of the many mountains that surround Portland, including Mt Hood, Mt St Helens and Mt Adams. Tryon Creek State Natural Area on the edge of southwest Portland is home to 665 acres of forest, 14 miles (22.5km) of hiking trails and 3 miles (5km) of paved bike trails. 

For post-hike refueling, the main Southeast thoroughfares of Belmont, Hawthorne and Division brim with food trucks, picnic tables, breweries and patios for enjoying Portland’s local fare alfresco. In the northeast, head to Alberta or Mississippi for more concentrations of food, drink and outdoor seating to enjoy. Or you can always get something to-go and head to Laurelhurst Park with a blanket for a meal among the massive Douglas fir trees.  

A man in a winter hat paddles in a giant pumpkin in water as crowds look on on a sunny fall day
The Giant Pumpkin Regatta – which is exactly what its name implies – adds a silly, quirky touch to fall in Portland. Wesley Lapointe/AFP via Getty Images

September to October is spooky season 

Portland loves Halloween, and appreciation for spooky season starts as soon as schools return from summer break. At Topaz Farm on Sauvie Island, just north of Portland, you’ll find copious pumpkins, a corn maze and a great selection of food and drinks that can be enjoyed while chickens run around your feet. 

Portland’s “weird” side is on full display at the annual West Coast Giant Pumpkin Regatta in Tualatin, just southwest of the city. Expect costumed paddlers navigating – yes – giant pumpkins in a series of races, while onlookers enjoy food and additional entertainment. 

These months are also a great time to check out Portland’s independent movie theaters, like the historic Hollywood and Bagdad – both stunningly ornate spaces where you can order local beer and food to enjoy during a flick. 

A man walks down an aisle of bookshelves brimming with titles for sale at Powell’s World of Books in Portland, Oregon, USA
Cold winter nights mean curling up with a good book – and Portland’s world-famous Powell’s World of Books will have a title for you. Shutterstock

Embrace the dark with books and holiday lights in November and December 

Portlanders love their books – especially in the wintertime when the drizzly darkness sets the mood for curling up with a great read. If you’re looking to stock up, the world-famous Powell’s City of Books is a go-to any time of year. In November, the Portland Book Fest brings the stories off the page with author talks, lectures and classes. 

The darkness also sets the stage for lights. Visit the Oregon Zoo in December for ZooLights, a dazzling display of holiday sparkle. This event is especially popular with families; kids love to visit the animals as they marvel at the millions of lights on display all over the zoo grounds. 

February is craft beer time 

No matter when or where you’re exploring Portland, you can expect access to the country’s most famous beer scene, with some 80 craft breweries within the city limits. Come February, the beer enthusiasm gets turned up a notch with the arrival of Oregon Craft Beer Month. Breweries across the state host special events and release new batches – and for one February weekend, beer lovers can join in the nerdiest of events, at Zwickelmania, when breweries across Portland open their doors on this day for behind-the-scenes tours and brewer talks. Since Zwickel is German for the tap on the fermentation vessel that lets brewers taste their works in progress, you might even catch some free samples straight from the vat. 

Paris seems made for couples and romance

Paris fulfills every expectation as the “City of Love.” Strolling along its broad and picturesque backstreets, lounging in its elegantly laid out formal gardens, contemplating artistic masterpieces in its museums, and lingering after sunset on lamp-lit bridges to watch the Eiffel Tower sparkle on the hour as illuminated monuments reflect on the Seine, it’s impossible not to be captivated.

Fall head-over-heels on this four- to seven-day itinerary showcasing the best sights and experiences for couples in the French capital. In partnership with Delta Vacations, we’ll show you how to Go Beyond the Flight and get more from your vacation experience. Here you’ll find just a sample of accommodations available through Delta Vacations that are perfect for couples – plus easy transfer options and, most importantly, one-of-a-kind activities both on and off the beaten path.

Whether it’s an elevated experience at a well-known tourist destination or an under-the-radar gem, there’s something special for every couple in the City of Light.

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Strolling through Paris with someone you love, it’s impossible not to be captivated © Craig Waxman, Polysphere Creative, for Lonely Planet

Day one – Around the Champs-Élysées and Eiffel Tower

At the center of the Étoile (‘star’) roundabout, reached by underground tunnels, the Arc de Triomphe is a sensational vantage point for a first glimpse of this magnificent city. It’s a steep climb up 284 steps to the top of the 164-foot-high arch but the reward is a one of the lesser known but most incredible perspectives of the city – a 360-degree view of the dozen leafy avenues radiating from here, taking in the Paris’ line of historic monuments southeast to place de la Concorde and the Louvre beyond. Northwest you can see another arch, the 1989-built Grande Arche de la Défense in Paris’ skyscraper-filled business district La Défense.

On a sunny summer’s day, a lovely detour from the Arc de Triomphe is to head a short distance west to Paris’ sprawling western forest, the Bois de Boulogne, where you can hire an old-fashioned rowing boat for a romantic exploration of its largest lake, Lac Inférieur.

After promenading down the avenue des Champs-Élysées, cut south along av Winston Churchill between the art-nouveau Grand Palais and Petit Palais to cross the city’s most exquisite bridge, Pont Alexandre III, festooned with cherubs, nymphs and gilded winged horses.

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© Graphics by Jacob Rhoades / Lonely Planet

The bridge leads to the manicured lawns fronting the stately Hôtel des Invalides military complex. Hiding around the eastern side is Paris’ most romantic museum, the sculpture-filled Musée Rodin. In 18th-century mansion the Hôtel Biron, where Rodin had his studios and showrooms, there are gorgeous examples of his works, including his sinuous marble monument to love, The Kiss. Stroll through the fragrant rose gardens surrounding the property to see more Rodin masterpieces, including The Thinker. Close by, Parisian coffee roaster Coutume‘s flagship cafe makes a perfect stop to recharge with an espresso or filter brew.

Wending through the backstreets of the 7e and 15e arrondissements on foot (or taking a shortcut by metro) will bring you to Paris’ little-known third island in the Seine, the Île aux Cygnes. Accessed by the Pont de Grenelle, a 1889, one-quarter scale replica of the Statue of Liberty guards its southwestern tip. The island’s tree-lined walking path reveals fabulous Eiffel Tower views.

Dining doesn’t get more magical than inside the spire itself. A dinner at the Eiffel Tower and cruise experience lets you soak in Paris from both the first floor restaurant Madame Brasserie – where celebrated Parisian chef Thierry Marx’ passion for locally sourced ingredients shines through his cuisine – and aboard a riverboat on the Seine.

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In Paris, opportunities to bond over a shared love of food are limitless © Craig Waxman, Polysphere Creative, for Lonely Planet

Day two – Central Parisian classics

In Paris, opportunities to bond over a shared love of food are limitless. A brilliant foray is to wander Le Marais’ warren of narrow medieval streets that escaped Baron Haussmann’s 19th-century renovation of the city. This vibrant inner-Parisian neighborhood now overflows with eateries of every imaginable type that make it one of the premier places to dine. Explore the latest hotspots on a small-group Secret Food Tour Paris Le Marais.

Before leaving Le Marais, don’t miss a quintessentially Parisian moment at the city’s oldest square, place des Vosges: an exquisite central patch of green enveloped by 36 symmetrical buildings with street-level arcades where you might here classical musicians such as violinists thanks to the superb acoustics. In its southeastern corner is the Maison de Victor Hugo, where the author lived after the success of his novel, The Hunchback of Notre Dame; it’s now an intimate museum portraying his life and work.

Ambling southwest leads you on to the smaller of Paris’ two inhabited city islands, the jewel-like Île St-Louis. Boutiques are strung along its central street, including the home of its wonderful ice cream maker, Berthillon, with over 70 tantalizing flavors.

Almost always filled with street performers and buskers such as accordion players, the Pont St-Louis connects the Île St-Louis to the larger Île de la Cité. Its most famous landmark, Paris’ Notre Dame cathedral, remains closed for post-fire renovations until 2024. Dazzling stained glass can still be seen at 13th-century Gothic chapel Sainte-Chapelle. At Île de la Cité’s westernmost point, descend the stairs to find the tiny, triangular park square du Vert-Galant at the water’s edge.

Returning to the Right Bank along Paris’ oldest bridge, the Pont Neuf, it’s just a few blocks northwest to the regal urban garden Jardin du Palais Royal with arcaded galleries and gravel walkways embraced by the neoclassical Palais Royal. In its northwestern corner, relish the romance of 18th-century Paris in one of the world’s most beautiful restaurants, Le Grand Véfour.

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End the day on the Seine aboard a romantic cruise as you savor a gourmet French dinner © Craig Waxman, Polysphere Creative, for Lonely Planet

Day three – Left Bank treasures

Flânerie (urban strolling without any particular destination) is a joy on Paris’ Rive Gauche (Left Bank). Allow plenty of time here to discover tiny boutiques, gourmet food shops, bistros, wine bars and literary cafes loaded with myth and history.

Start the day with un café on the awning-shaded terrace of Les Deux Magots, overlooking Paris’ oldest church, the Romanesque Église St-Germain des Prés, built in the 11th century on the site of a 6th-century abbey.

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© Graphics by Jacob Rhoades / Lonely Planet

Just north, tucked away on a leafy little square, is the Musée National Eugène Delacroix, in the seminal French artist’s former home and studio.

Delacroix’s frescoes adorn the walls a few blocks south at another beautiful Left Bank church, Église St-Sulpice. In front of its colonnaded Italianate facade, place St-Sulpice is an picturesque spot to linger, as are the iconic sage-green metal chairs scattered in the nearby chestnut-shaded gardens, the Jardin du Luxembourg.

Past Paris’ multilayered museum of the Middle Ages, the Musée de Cluny, aka the Musée National du Moyen Âge (home to the celebrated series of tapestries, The Lady with the Unicorn, dating from 1500), and the city’s medieval-founded university, La Sorbonne, wind your way through the Latin Quarter’s backstreets for timeless French cuisine by flickering candlelight in a vine-draped 17th-century townhouse at restaurant Le Coupe-Chou. Finish the evening listening to live jazz in the medieval stone cellar of jazz club Caveau de la Huchette.

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Discover tiny boutiques, gourmet food shops, bistros, wine bars and literary cafes loaded with myth and history © Craig Waxman, Polysphere Creative, for Lonely Planet

Day four – Enchanting Montmartre

Until 1860, hilltop Montmartre lay just beyond the city’s boundaries to the north. Building began on the white-domed basilica Sacré-Cœur soon after Montmartre became Paris’ 18th arrondissement and some of the world’s foremost artists lived and painted here. Today its cobblestone streets and charming squares still preserve its quaint village character.

Behind the art-nouveau-canopied Abbesses metro station, the year-2000-installed artwork Le Mur des Je t’aime (Wall of Love) spells out “I love you” in 250 languages.

Not far to the south in the 9e arrondissement, painter Ary Scheffer’s former home and gathering place of Paris’ Romantic-era luminaries is now the Musée de la Vie Romantique, evoking the era in both the mansion-housed museum and its delightful garden.

While away the afternoon in Paris’ northeast at pretty waterway Canal St-Martin. Its shaded towpaths and wrought-iron footbridges are idyllic for a stroll – or simply sprawl on the grassy banks or take a seat at a cafe terrace along the banks and watch the boats float by.

End the day back on the Seine aboard a Romantic Dinner Cruise as you savor a gourmet French dinner along with spellbinding views of the alluring city.

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Paris’ romantic hotels sweep you up in the city’s magic © Craig Waxman, Polysphere Creative, for Lonely Planet

Where to stay in Paris for couples

Paris’ romantic hotels sweep you up in the city’s magic. To reach them easily, private sedan transfers, available to book through Delta Vacations, can whisk you to and from the airport in style. Behind a grand neoclassical façade, the Hotel Regina Louvre Paris has 98 rooms (including 32 suites) with Louis XV- and Louis XVI-style furniture. Most have views across the Jardin des Tuileries to the Eiffel Tower.

Between the Champs-Élysées and Eiffel Tower, just back from the Seine, is the Villa Marquis Meliá Collection. This former aristocratic residence now accommodates guests in contemporary rooms with vibrant colors and geometric styling. On hand are a library, restaurant and 24-hour gym.

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© Graphics by Jacob Rhoades / Lonely Planet

In the heart of Paris’ Golden Triangle, home to its famous fashion houses, Le Belmont Paris has beautiful timber interiors, British Axminster woven carpets, French furniture, granite bathrooms and theatrically curtained headboards. Its glass-roofed spa features a traditional Turkish bath and fitness area.

Peacefully situated yet within moments of the Louvre and reborn department store Samaritaine, Maison Albar Hotels Le Pont Neuf has 60 rooms in soft beige and blue tones with art deco-inspired furniture and a spa with a swimming pool.

In stylish St-Germain des Prés, 1926-built Hotel Montalembert has 50 rooms over eight floors featuring Hermès and Pierre Frey silk curtains. Its concierge service can book tickets to shows and events, and arrange flowers, chocolate, fruit, wine and Champagne in your room for your arrival in Paris.

Why this partnership?: Delta Vacations is reinventing itself – your miles are worth more when you use them toward your vacation, so you can do more. Choose from flights, stays, rides and activities all over the world, all in one place.

A first-time guide to Portland, Maine

Combining rugged beauty, maritime history and a thriving culinary scene, the city of Portland is one of Maine’s shining stars, showcasing the best of New England.

Situated on Casco Bay, Portland packs a punch across its walkable Old Port district, beautiful working waterfront and historic neighborhoods – and there’s a lot to explore. This small city (even though it’s the largest in the state) is a destination where you can sip craft cocktails in a t-shirt or flannel without judgment, or walk into a dive bar and become friends with some locals over blueberry-pie Jell-O shots (more on that below).

If eating the best lobster roll you’ve ever had at a lighthouse perched on the Atlantic Ocean sounds like your kind of thing, Portland is for you. And while lobster and ocean views are the city’s calling cards, there’s much more to discover here.

Outdoor activities get you pumped up? Lace up your boots to take to the numerous hiking trails nearby. Love the beach? Portland has you covered. Looking for culture? Check out the buzzing art scene. If you’re looking for a weekend of superb eating and drinking, or a few days of wellness, Portland can provide whatever kind of escape you want. It’s a place that encapsulates Maine’s tagline, “The way life should be.”

Relaxed, friendly and fun, Portland never disappoints. If you’re planning your first trip, here’s all you need to know.

A smiling young woman paddle boards across the harbor in Portland, Maine, USA
Summer in Portland means taking to the water of Casco Bay. Chris Bennett/Getty Images

When should I go to Portland?

Summer is peak season for Portland (and for Maine), with warmer temperatures ideal for taking advantage of all outdoor pursuits, taking a dip in the chilly ocean and spending Thursday or Friday evenings washing down food-truck fare with local brews, your foot tapping to live music at Thompson’s Point – for free. While summertime is spectacular in southern Maine, it’s also a very popular time to visit, so expect many fellow visitors and higher prices for accommodations. Portland Wine Week in June is an especially busy time.

Portland charms in all seasons – though the weather does turn frigid and snowy in the winter. Yet the snowflakes falling on the cobblestone streets of the Old Port are fetching indeed, and you can always get cozy with a hot toddy in one of the city’s many tucked-away cocktail bars.

The shoulder season in Portland may be the sweet spot, with fewer crowds and more budget-friendly accommodation come fall and spring. Leaf-peepers can enjoy the colorful display anywhere from mid-September to the end of October. Foodies will savor the annual Harvest on the Harbor festival, held in late October or early November.

How much time should I spend in Portland?

The destination works well as a weekend escape – in a couple of days, you can sample a couple of restaurants, breweries and museums – though three to four days will spare you feeling rushed while providing a full taste of the city. You can cover the essentials and tack on a local hike, a sunset sailing trip in Casco Bay or an afternoon perusing local boutiques. However long you visit Portland, consider it recon for your next trip. You’ll want to come back.

A woman crosses the street in the downtown of Portland, Maine, USA
Once you’re in downtown Portland and the Old Port, you can walk everywhere. iStock

Is it easy to get in and around Portland?

We recommend taking a car to Portland for maximum freedom and flexibility. Street parking can be tricky downtown, and in the Old Port; there are a few paid parking garages. I always find a spot if I’m willing to walk a few blocks – just be prepared to circle around a few times.

Portland International Jetport lies just 2 miles from downtown. Alternatively, it’s possible to fly into Boston Logan International Airport and rent a car for the almost 2-hour drive north. Amtrak trains reach Portland at Thompson’s Point, just a touch west of the city: the Downeaster travels along the coast every day south to Boston and north to Brunswick.

With the Old Port as your base, you can easily walk to many popular attractions and restaurants. (It’s wise to seek out accommodation that offers parking, especially in the summer.) Public transport is available for those without a car, thanks to Greater Portland METRO.

Phan serves a customer at Vy Banh Mi food truck, Portland, Maine, USA
From lobster shacks to fine restaurants to food trucks, Portland’s food scene is legendary for a reason. Shawn Patrick Ouellette/Portland Press Herald via Getty Images

Top things to do in Portland

Eat, eat – and eat some more

Portland has earned its reputation as a gourmet’s paradise. Classic diners serve delicious comfort food like pancakes with wild Maine blueberries, while chefs of the highest caliber put their impressive mark on a range of cuisines.

Anyone arriving hungry in Portland will want to start with a lobster roll. A deeper dive will unearth everything from craft donuts to Southern barbecue; Greek, Asian, Mexican and Puerto Rican joints; food trucks; and much, much more.

If you like oysters, sampling treasures freshly plucked from the Atlantic is a must. You can’t go wrong at The Shop by Island Creek Oysters in the East Bayside neighborhood, which has a lively atmosphere and killer Bloody Mary. (Yes, it’s topped with an oyster.)

Portland is known for its buzzing breweries and craft cocktail bars. On the sprawling patio at the city’s most famous brewery, Allagash Brewing Company, you can down another lobster roll from the Bite Into Maine food truck. First-timers shouldn’t skip the hot and crisp hand-cut Belgian frites at Duckfat – a true Portland institution, whose cones of twice-fried duck-fat fries live up to the hype.

Hop aboard a boat

The ruggedly handsome coast begs to be explored, and the perspective from the water is superb. I love the Wine Wise wine sails in the late afternoon or evening for sunset.

A young couple walking on trail by edge of cliff rocks at Portland Head Light in Fort Williams Park, Cape Elizabeth, Maine, USA
South of the city, historic Portland Head Light is always picture-perfect. Kristi Blokhin/Shutterstock

Visit at least one lighthouse

Head south to Cape Elizabeth to take in the historic and still-operating Portland Head Light, which dates to 1791. Check out the on-site museum and wander the trail for different viewpoints of the extremely photogenic lighthouse. If you happen to visit on Maine Open Lighthouse Day, you’ll be one of the lucky guests to climb the tower – it’s open to the public exactly one day a year.

Hit some nearby trails

Stretch your legs and work off those donuts with a nearby hike. The 3.6-mile waterfront Back Cove loop trail features views of the city on the city’s northeastern edge. A 15-minute drive from town lies Mackworth Island, where a short 1.25-mile trail traces the shore of this tiny speck, which is a state park of the same name. Birding enthusiasts will love that it’s an official bird sanctuary, where you might spot osprey and other shorebirds. About half an hour north of Portland by car, Wolfe’s Neck Woods State Park is home to six trails of varying lengths that feature scenic vistas of Casco Bay, Googins Island and the Harraseeket River.

My favorite thing to do in Portland

I can’t get enough of the food and bar scenes in Portland. When I visit, I always return to Central Provisions for the Baja fish sandwich and to Gilbert’s Chowder House for a steamy bowl of New England clam chowder. And I always pepper in a couple of new-to-me restaurants and breweries each time. (There are always new places to try.)

I always make sure to get my donut fix at Hifi Donuts (I love the Mexican Hot Chocolate or Calico Glaze flavors). Come evening, while I can never resist a craft cocktail from stylish Blyth & Burrows on Exchange St, my heart is happier at a dive bar like Dock Fore, which specializes in local banter and those aforementioned blueberry-pie Jell-O shots.

Boiling lobsters near Portland Head Light, Cape Elizabeth, Maine, USA
You can’t visit Portland without savoring lobster and admiring a lighthouse. Cavan Images

How much money do I need for Portland?

It depends. You can take in Portland on a mid-range budget – or easily ascend to the stratosphere. I’ve found that even a late-night slice of pizza here is pricier than in other places. Yet if you know where to go and are willing to travel outside of peak season, it’s possible to visit without draining your bank account.

If you’re on a budget, focus on free activities like wandering the waterfront, visiting lighthouses and beaches, and hiking nearby trails. Get your lunch at a food truck, freeing up money to spend on dinner and drinks in the evening.

  • Basic room for two: $200–500

  • Self-catering apartments: $170–720

  • Luxury hotel: $500–700

  • Ferry ticket: $7.20/$14 (off-peak/peak)

  • Bus ticket: $2–5 (single ride)

  • Coffee: $2.50–6

  • Donuts or pastries: $2.75–8

  • Brewery beer: $7–9 (pint); $10–16 (flight)

  • Lobster roll: $17–38

  • Mid-range dinner out for two: $40–75

  • Slice of late-night pizza: $4.50–7

  • Craft cocktail: $13–20

Patrons eat at outdoor tables at Duckfat restaurant, Portland, Maine, USA
Reserving ahead at popular restaurants like Duckfat is essential. Logan Werlinger/Portland Portland Press Herald via Getty Images

Frequently asked questions about Portland

How should I pack for Portland?

No matter the season, bring lots of layers. Maine’s weather can be fickle, changing on a dime. The temperature varies quite a bit within the space of one day – think chilly mornings and evenings and hot afternoons in the summer. Year-round, you should always have a rain jacket and windproof layer on hand. In winter, you’ll want to have a solid winter coat and boots, sweaters and thinner wool layers to keep warm and peel off once you’re inside a cozy restaurant.

Do I need to make advance restaurant reservations in Portland?

Yes. Portland is a true foodie hub, and you don’t want to find yourself missing out on a meal at that restaurant on the tippy top of your list. Reserve ahead where you can, especially in peak summer season.

How much should I plan to do in one day or weekend in Portland?

Don’t overprogram yourself. If you’re anything like me, you’ll be tempted to pack in as much as possible on your first trip in order to make the most of your time. Yet I highly recommend forcing yourself to take it a little slower, and truly savor what you are doing, seeing and eating. I always recommend quality over quantity when it comes to travel experiences.