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The 11 best places to see dinosaur and plant fossils in the US

Dinosaurs and other ancient plants and animals inspire fascination, even though it might seem like we can only see them in movies like Jurassic Park. But did you know fossils are everywhere in North America? The US is covered in fossil sites featuring ancient critters, big and small. Some are found in deserts that were once ocean floors, others in busy cities where continents shifted millions of years ago.

Whether you’ve got fossil-obsessed kids at home or are a science geek yourself, here are some of the best places in the US to see fossils and investigate the prehistoric past firsthand.

Dinosaur fossils preserved in rock
Dinosaur fossils preserved in rock at Dinosaur National Monument in Utah-Colorado © DEA / C. DANI I. JESKE / Getty Images

1. Dinosaur National Monument, Utah

Located just across the Colorado border in Utah’s Unita Mountains, Dinosaur National Monument is considered one of the country’s most well-known fossil hot-spots. Here, dinosaurs like the Stegosaurus, Allosaurus, and Apatosaurus are embedded in rock at the Carnegie Quarry. If you head out to McKee Springs, you’ll find petroglyphs created by the Fremont indigenous group over 1,000 years ago, the ancestors of the Ute and Shoshone people who live in the area now. 

While the monument is a great place to learn about paleontology and see fossils in their natural state, fossil hunting and collecting are strictly prohibited throughout the park, including backcountry areas. This rule ensures the preservation of fossils for scientific research and public education. 

Where to camp nearby

There are six campgrounds in Dinosaur National Monument itself, but if you prefer a turnkey glamping site with a tent already set up, head to nearby Vernal, Utah to camp in Steinaker State Park or Red Fleet State Park.

USA, Nebraska, Agate Fossil Beds National Monument (Enhancement)
Fossil Hills Trails in Sioux County, Nebraska © Tom Bean / Getty Images

2. Agate Fossil Beds National Monument, Nebraska

While dinosaurs may get all the glory, mammals take the stage at Agate Fossil Beds. The fossils here are about 20 million years old and include creatures such as the Moropus (part donkey, part anteater), the Dinohyus (a boar as big as a bison) and the Beardog (wolf and hyena-like). Walk the Fossil Hills Trail to see the quarries where some of the monument’s most important fossils were found in the early 1900s. Or hop onto the Daemonelix Trail to see the “corkscrew” homes of ancient dry-land beavers, the Palaeocastor. 

Please note fossil hunting and collecting are not allowed anywhere within the monument, as all fossils are protected by federal law to preserve the area’s scientific and educational value. 

Where to camp nearby

There’s no camping at Agate Fossil Beds National Monument, but you can find sites at Toadstool Geologic Park – where you can continue to learn about ancient fossils.

Field of Dinosaur Tracks
Dinosaur tracks at Dinosaur State Park in Connecticut © mcpuckette / Getty Images

3. Dinosaur State Park, Connecticut

Dinosaur State Park is one of the largest dinosaur track sites on the continent. It is home to 2,000 dinosaur tracks made during the Jurassic period, 500 of which are housed in the Exhibit Center, a large dome at the park’s center. You can also explore trails outside with volcanic rock and plant life from the dinosaur era. In summer, buy a “mining rough” bag to pan for fossils and minerals, and staff can help you identify your finds. However, fossil hunting and removing any natural specimens outside of this are strictly prohibited within the park. 

Where to stay nearby

There’s no camping in Dinosaur State Park, just a day-use picnic pavilion. But you can find nearby vacation rentals, which makes this a great choice for those who prefer an indoorsy vibe.

Florissant Fossil Beds National Monument, Colorado, USA
Petrified Redwood in Florissant Fossil Beds National Monument, Colorado © Peter Unger / Getty Images

4. Florissant Fossil Beds National Monument, Colorado

Since studies began in the 1800s at Florissant, scientists have discovered fossils of plants, insects and ancient tree stumps. Research projects are ongoing, so if you’ve ever wanted to visit a working fossil site, Florissant is about as close as you can get. Fossil enthusiasts can walk the trails to see petrified tree stumps and learn about the volcanic activity that shaped the land millions of years ago.

The site offers visitors the chance to view remarkable fossil specimens in the visitor center and on designated trails. Digging for and collecting of any natural or cultural feature is strictly prohibited at Florissant Fossil Beds National Monument. Fossils, rocks, flowers, pine cones, artifacts, etc. must remain here. There are fossil shops and a private quarry outside the monument for visitors wishing for a fossil of their own.

Where to camp nearby

There’s no camping in Florissant Fossil Beds National Monument, but you can find sites in Mueller State Park or Pike National Forest. A little further away is 100 Mile Overlook at 105 West Ranch, a private site where the tent is already set up with glamping amenities.

5. Big Brook Preserve, New Jersey

Big Brook Preserve is a great spot for finding Cretaceous-era shark teeth and fossils from when the ocean covered the area. Besides shark teeth, scientists have discovered bones and teeth from Mosasaurs (giant marine reptiles), Plesiosaurs (the inspiration for the Loch Ness Monster) and giant crocodiles. You can hunt for fossils along the creek beds, but remember the rules: only keep what would fit into a 12-ounce can or sandwich-size zip-lock baggie per day, don’t dig into the stream bank and hand tools up to 14 inches may be used. 

It’s important to note that fossil collecting is prohibited in certain protected areas within the preserve. Visitors must be mindful of guidelines and stick to designated areas where collecting is allowed. 

Where to stay nearby

Like Dinosaur State Park in Connecticut, there’s no camping near Big Brook Preserve – this isn’t the rural corner of Jersey. That said, there’s a bevy of great hotels in nearby Middletown like Oyster Point, a boutique spot with marina views.

shutterstockRF_187874348.jpg
Erosion formations in the Badlands National Park © NaughtyNut / Shutterstock

6. Badlands National Park, South Dakota

The dramatic rock formations of Badlands National Park hold ancient animals of all kinds and have worn away enough for us to take a peek. The Oreodont (a bit like a capybara-donkey hybrid), the Nimvarid (known as false saber-toothed cats) and the Brontothere (ancient rhinoceri) all roamed these lands.

The visitor center features a Fossil Preparation Lab that you can visit seven days a week from 9:00am to 4:30pm from the second week in June to the third week in September. You can also hike, enjoy scenic drives and stargaze in the park. 

Fossil hunting is strictly prohibited within the park, and removing any natural artifacts is illegal. This protection ensures the preservation of fossils for scientific study and public enjoyment. 

Where to camp nearby

There is plenty of camping in Badlands National Park, but if you want to go further afield, Plenty Star Ranch is near Wind Cave National Park in Custer, South Dakota – giving you a two-for-one punch on parks.

7. Montour Preserve, Pennsylvania

The Montour Preserve Fossil Pit is known for its fossil pit, featuring a huge concentration of fossilized brachiopods, gastropods, trilobites and more. Visitors are advised to bring basic tools – a small hammer, safety goggles and a brush. Visit early in the morning before the rocks heat up in the afternoon sun. Note that fossil collecting is only allowed in the fossil pit itself. 

Where to camp nearby

Camping isn’t allowed at Mountour Preserve, which is managed by the Pennsylvania Game Commission. But nearby Barakah Heritage Farm offers backcountry camping if you bring your own gear – though a tent is available to rent if this is a one-time foray. It also offers the chance to turn your Montour Preserve visit into a broader educational experience with a hands-on farm stay optional add-on.

8. Caesar Creek State Park, Ohio

Caesar Creek State Park, near Waynesville, Ohio, is great for finding fossils. Visitors can dig in special areas to uncover fossils from ancient sea creatures that lived 450 million years ago during the Ordovician period. Keep an eye out for fossils of trilobites, brachiopods and horn corals in the rock. You don’t need any tools – just look around the limestone areas for these ancient finds! In order to collect fossils at Caesar Creek State Park you must first obtain a permit from Army Corps of Engineers Visitor Center by calling (513) 897-1050. 

Where to camp nearby

Reservations at the Caesar Creek State Park Campground can be made up to six months in advance. The campground has electric and full hookup sites available. 

9. Mineral Wells Fossil Park, Texas

Just an hour from Fort Worth, Mineral Wells Fossil Park is a little-known place where you can find fossils from the Pennsylvanian Period, over 300 million years ago. Visitors can discover crinoids, shark teeth and coral fossils for free here. It’s a perfect spot for anyone who wants a hands-on fossil hunt without large crowds. While the park is open to fossil collecting, it is only allowed in designated areas, on the surface, and with small gardening tools. 

Where to camp nearby

Lake Mineral Wells State Park & Trailway has campsites and screened shelters available. 

10. Sharktooth Hill, California

Near Bakersfield, Sharktooth Hill is part of an area managed by the Buena Vista Museum of Natural History and is a great place for fossil hunting in California. This site, dating back to the Miocene Epoch about 15 million years ago, has many fossilized shark teeth, whale bones and sometimes even dolphin skeletons. Guided digs let you explore these ancient treasures with expert help. Reservations are required. 

Note that fossil collecting is strictly prohibited in some regions of the site as it is a protected location. Visitors must stay within the designated collecting zones or join guided tours that provide access to approved fossil-hunting areas.

Where to camp nearby

While there is no camping available on site, the Kern River Campground is 12 minutes away and has 25 campsites across two sections available. 

11. Aurora Fossil Museum, North Carolina

The Aurora Fossil Museum is located in North Carolina and has a Florida fossil site near the Peace River. Across from the museum, visitors can search the fossiliferous pits for fossils from the Miocene period, all donated by the neighboring Nutrien Phosphate plant. Fossil hunting is only available in the pits, where remains of ancient sharks, whales, bony fish, and coral can be found. 

Where to stay nearby

While there are not many hotels by the museum, nearby Phoenix Farms Vineyard offers guest suites, RV/Camper stays and tent camping. You can also find hotels in the nearby towns of Washington and New Bern.

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The 8 best hiking trails to tackle in Peru

Distinguished by three topographical regions – mountains, jungle, and arid coast – Peru is an ideal destination for outdoor enthusiasts as all roads seem to lead to a superb hiking trail.

Ascending the Andes at a steady pace brings you to exhilarating, high-elevation lakes of an azure hue while venturing to the Amazon region offers the chance to view an exquisite array of flora and fauna that are far from the main roads.

Finally, at a lower elevation and far less humid climate, the desert coast surrounding Lima’s capital has a few lesser-known gems that will delight hikers at every skill level.

Strap on your boots as we discover the best hikes in Peru – to Machu Picchu and beyond.

A crowd of tourists visiting the archaeological site of Macchu Picchu. Shutterstock
Prebook your Machu Picchu trek as numbers are carefully managed. Shutterstock

1. Inca Trail to Machu Picchu

The classic Peru hike

42 km (26 miles) one way, 3-5 days, difficult

Rugged and of high altitude, the ancient Inca Trail (Camino Inka) has become the most famous trek in Peru thanks to its spectacle of diverse landscapes and termination point at the famed Machu Picchu.

Starting on relatively flat terrain from Kilometer 82 of the Inca Trail, the classic route steadily ascends as it cuts through valleys, Andean villages and mountains, crosses rivers, and confronts smaller Inca ruins.

The final climb is up a set of stairs that lead to the Sun Gate (Inti Punku), from where Machu Picchu can finally be seen.

After exploring the site, most hikers spend the night in Aguas Calientes before returning by bus.

As a means of preservation, a maximum of 500 persons are allowed on the 15th-century trail per day, 300 of which are required guides and porters.

This hike needs to be planned months (if not a year) in advance for two main reasons: bookings for the Inca Trail tend to sell out quickly and, with an elevation that passes 4200m (13,780ft) above sea level, proper training is vital.

Aerial view of Choquequirao, the ruins of an ancient Inca mountain city
A trek to Choquequirao is a challenging alternative to Machu Picchu. Yuri Zvezdny/Shutterstock

2. Lost City of Choquequirao Trek

Best off-the-beaten-path hike

45km (28 miles), 4-5 days round-trip, strenuous

Authentic and uncrowded, Choquequirao is the more challenging and isolated alternative to Machu Picchu for avid hikers seeking a route steeped in Inca history.

Located in the Apurimac Valley, this archaeological site (whose name can be translated to “cradle of gold”) is believed to be three times the size of its more famous sister city and can only be reached by foot (as opposed to the floods of tour buses that frequent Machu Picchu).

The starting point is the Capuliyoq pass in Abancay, from where trekkers descend into the Apurimac Canyon.

Terraced farmlands that trace the edge of the canyon’s namesake river eventually give way to an exhilarating shift from vertical desert to high-altitude jungle as hikers climb their way to the site.

Finally, after reaching 3050m (10,006ft) above sea level, you can revel in an eye-level view of the spectacular ruins.

Not even half of what archaeologists believe to remain of Choquequirao has been uncovered and yet the 12 visible sectors sprawled across three hilltops are incredible to take in – especially when accompanied by no more than a handful of other hikers, if any.

Rolling green hills in Lomas de Lachay National Reserve in Peru
The rolling hills of Lomas de Lúcumo National Reserve are good for beginner hikers. Imágenes del Perú/Getty Images

3. Lomas de Lúcumo

Best family hike

4km (2.5 miles), 2.5 hours round-trip, easy

As hard as it may be to believe, soft slopes of lush vegetation are just an hour’s drive outside of Peru’s desert capital, Lima.

Lomas de Lúcumo is the result of a peculiar climatic occurrence whereby ocean mist is trapped in the hills, springing verdant vegetation to life during the southern hemisphere’s winter months (June to September).

Navigate the sea of green following the trail known as Los Guardianes, the shorter of two marked loops (the other trail is the 6.5km-long Los Lúcumos).

Spot caves with interesting markings, a rock climbing area, and quite a bit of wildlife (if it’s not too crowded). Try to visit during the middle of the week as the trails tend to fill up on weekends with students and families.

Located in the district of Pachacamac, this outdoor excursion can be paired with a visit to the Pachacamac archaeological site and a typical chicharrón (fried pork) sandwich in the nearby town of Lurín.

4. Marcahuasi

Best camping trip from Lima

8km (5 miles), 6-8 hours, difficult

Surreal topography and rock formations make Marcahuasi a magical overnight camping destination if visiting from Lima.

The trailhead is a six-hour drive from the capital city and while the distance of the hike is not so long and the trail itself well marked, the true challenge is overcoming the altitude.

Standing at 4000m (13,123ft) above sea level, Marcahuasi is a naturally formed stone forest with curious carvings of human faces and animals.

It is considered by many locals to have healing powers and the view of a clear night sky full of stars is undeniably awe-inspiring.

With a quick elevation gain, it is important that hikers of all levels are acclimatized before ascending to Marcahuasi. Horses and donkeys can be rented when paying the entrance fee of five Peruvian soles (S5) at San Pedro de Casta.

Hiker in front of Laguna 69, Huarascan National Park
Laguna 69 is a glacier-fed lagoon, well worth the hike through Huarascan National Park. Orlando Neto/Shutterstock

5. Laguna 69 Trek

Best day hike in Huaraz

13km (8 miles), 5-6 hours round-trip, moderate

Located in Huascarán National Park, Laguna 69 is one of the most picturesque places in Peru – if not all of South America – and yet only a handful of tourists that visit the Andean nation make the time to visit it.

With snow-capped mountains in the backdrop, the still turquoise water is absolutely stunning and well worth the climb.

The scenic trek begins after a two hour drive from the city of Huaraz in north-central Peru. Livestock and cattle, cascading waterfalls, and quaint meadows will come and go, but the towering peaks of Cordillera Blanca are steady company.

The trail gently eases into an ascent for most of the route but the last 30-40 minutes are quite a climb.

The surface elevation of Laguna 69 is over 4600m (15,091ft) above sea level, so be sure to spend a day or two acclimatizing in the city of Huaraz beforehand.

Gocta waterfalls in the Amazonas of Peru.
One of the tallest waterfalls in the world, Gocta Waterfalls can be visited on this day trip. Alexander Chiu Werner/Getty Images

6. Full Circuit to Gocta Waterfalls

Best day hike in the northern Amazon

15km (9.3 miles), 6-8 hours round-trip, moderate

One of the tallest waterfalls in the world, Gocta was only rediscovered and brought to international attention in 2002.

Trickling down from the cloud forest of northern Peru’s Amazonas Region, the two-drop waterfall is 771m (2530ft) tall and is hugged by lush flora.

To witness the lower and upper falls, begin the trek at the trailhead in San Pablo, a short bus ride away from Chachapoyas (where most travelers stay). Well-marked, the trail leads past small villages and coffee plantations as well as plenty of viewpoints of canyons and deep valleys.

The hike to the upper fall is more scenic but the complete view of Gocta seen from the base of the lower fall is unparalleled. The loop finishes in Cocachimba from where transportation back to Chachapoyas can be found.

The best time to complete the full circuit to Gocta waterfalls is between April and June, just after the rainy season has ended and before tourism picks up.

7. Sangalle trek to Colca Canyon

Best exploration of one of the deepest canyons in the world

8km (5 miles), 2 days round-trip, moderate

The world’s second-deepest canyon, Cañón del Colca is cradled by desert hillsides six hours outside of Arequipa city and swooped over by the impressive Andean condor.

There are various trails that lead down the terraced hillside and back up the 3400m-deep canyon (11,155ft), connecting small pueblos along the way.

Day hikes from the nearby Colca Valley town of Chivay down to the hot springs are certainly enjoyable, but the thrill of camping in the bed of the canyon should not be missed if time permits.

The Cabanaconde–Sangalle–Cabanaconde route is a well-trodden yet scenic path as the village tucked in the depths of Colca provides hikers with comfortable overnight accommodations and refreshing swimming pools.

This is not an extensive hike and can be done without a guide. It is possible to complete it in one day, but the two-to-three-hour climb from Sangalle Oasis (2150m/7053ft above sea level) back up to Cabanaconde (3280m/10,761ft) is best done in the cool morning hours. Either way, bring lots of water and sunscreen.

Two hikers explore on the Cordillera Huayhuash hike
The Cordillera Huayhuash trek is renowned as one of the top hiking circuits in the world. Shutterstock

8. Cordillera Huayhuash

The ultimate mountain trekking experience in Peru

120km (75 miles), 12 days, strenuous

Four decades have passed since the publication of Joe Simpson’s incredible mountaineering story Touching the Void and adventurists around the world continue to visit Peru to create their own (hopefully less dangerous) narrative of this epic route.

Azure glacial lakes, Andean peaks blanketed in the purest snowfall, and a surprising diversity of flora and fauna paint the scene of this near two-week hike that dabbles 4000-5000m (13,123-16,404ft) above sea level – such natural beauty has gained the Cordillera Huayhuash trek a reputation as one of the top hiking circuits in the world.

Due to the extreme length and altitude of this trek, it’s rare to pass people other than the settlers who have made a home in the mountain chain, often accompanied by alpacas or llamas. Therefore, it is strongly recommended to go with a guide regardless of experience level.

Acclimatize in Huaraz before heading off to Cuartelwain (a five-hour drive), from where each consecutive day will average six hours of hiking until finishing in Llámac. This circuit is best completed during the dry season (May to September).

Restorations, Rembrandt and revolutions: the best of Amsterdam in 2019

From the ultimate Rembrandt exhibition to ground-breaking vegan restaurants, with sustainable sightseeing and limited-edition craft beers thrown in for good measure, 2019 is shaping up to be a fantastic year to visit Amsterdam.

To make sure you don’t miss a trick, here are our pick of the best one-off events, innovative experiences, emerging trends, new openings and insider tips that will set the city alight. Book now to avoid disappointment.

There's no shortage of exciting events happening in Amsterdam in 2019 © S.Borisov/Lonely Planet
There’s no shortage of exciting events happening in Amsterdam in 2019 © S.Borisov/Lonely Planet

The complete Rembrandt

In 2019, it will be 350 years since the death of one of the Netherlands’ most renowned artists, Rembrandt Harmenszoon van Rijn. To honour this landmark, cultural institutions across the country will be going all out with a national celebration entitled ‘Rembrandt and the Golden Age’.

A collection of his most iconic works is already on show at the grand Rijksmuseum, but for the first time in history, the museum will display its complete collection of Rembrandts in a single exhibition. This unmissable Golden Age collection will include 22 paintings, 60 drawings and 300 of the best examples of his 1300 prints — a must-visit for art lovers. Buy tickets online to avoid queuing at the ticket office.

For more rare and never-before-seen paintings by the Dutch master, head to Museum het Rembrandthuis, where various exhibitions will bring to life the works on display. ‘Rembrandt’s Social Network’ is the pick of the bunch; it runs until 19 May 2019 and is dedicated to the artist’s family, friends and acquaintances, and the role they played in his artistic endeavours.

The Rijksmuseum will be putting its entire collection of Rembrandts on display for the Golden Age exhibition © Goncharovaia/Lonely Planet
The Rijksmuseum will be putting its entire collection of Rembrandts on display for the Golden Age exhibition © Goncharovaia/Lonely Planet

Restoration of a masterpiece

From July onwards, visitors to the Rijksmuseum will also have the unique opportunity to witness the public restoration of The Night Watch, arguably Rembrandt’s most revered work. The painting’s last restoration took place more than 40 years ago, but this time the whopping 3.6m x 4.4m artwork will remain on display throughout the restoration process thanks to a state-of-the-art glass case.

Dive into Amsterdam’s street art scene

The best thing about Amsterdam’s street art scene is the ever-changing selection of work just waiting to be discovered. In 2018, a mural of a hybrid fish-dog by Keith Haring was uncovered almost 30 years after it was completed and it can now be seen at Jan van Galenstraat 4 in the west of the city.

A two-and-a-half hour Street Art and Alternative Amsterdam Walking Tour covers best of the rest, including the latest sprays and several of Amsterdam’s subcultures. With increased gentrification in much of the city centre, some of the finest street art is found further afield. The Amsterdam Street Art Murals Walking/Subway Tour takes travellers off the beaten track to some of the city’s most spectacular murals, mainly by Brazilian artists, in the Zuidoost neighbourhood.

Educate yourself on the Red Light District with a walking tour run by the Prostitution Information Centre © Olena Z/Lonely Planet
Educate yourself on the Red Light District with a walking tour run by the Prostitution Information Centre © Olena Z/Lonely Planet

Go a little deeper on a walking tour

There are endless walking tours available in the Dutch capital, but only a number help travellers better connect with the city’s people and their stories. Who is Amsterdam is the perfect all-rounder, regaling the stories of Amsterdammers as you traverse the city centre. From a Dutch family to a coffee shop owner, the tour offers up close and personal insights into city life.

For an in-depth look into the city’s infamous Red Light District, the Prostitution Information Centre offers tours by former sex workers (7pm on Wednesdays; 5pm on Saturdays). Tours last an hour.

Head north to Amsterdam Noord

Amsterdam Noord continues to cement itself as one of the city’s coolest up-and-coming areas and there is always something new to discover. Alongside institutions such as Plekk and Café de Ceuvel, exciting concept restaurants and alternative bars seem to pop up monthly.

The eagerly awaited Noord-Zuid metro line opened in summer 2018, connecting Noord with the rest of the city south of the IJ river. Head to the streets around Gedempt Hamerkanaal, which already revels in the out of the ordinary. Practice flip tricks at Skatecafe, tuck into some modern Mexican eats at Coba Taqueria or catch an indie movie at the boutique cinema FC Hyena. Take the 52 metro line to Amsterdam, Noorderpark; from there it’s a 10-minute walk to Gedempt Hamerkanaal.

Sample 2019's seasonal brews at the Oedipus Brewery & Tap Room © Claire Bissell/Lonely Planet
Sample 2019’s seasonal brews at the Oedipus Brewery & Tap Room © Claire Bissell/Lonely Planet

Seasonal tipples

The Amsterdam craft beer scene is thriving, with microbreweries dotted throughout the city. Most offer seasonal beers, but head to Oedipus Brewery & Tap Room in Amsterdam Noord to try four recurring seasonal beers such as their light session IPA País Tropical and the malty chocolate Madeleine. It is also planning one-off collaborations with guest brewers for 2019.

If you don’t want to miss out on the best local tipples, a craft beer tour will take you to some of the best drinking spots in the city. The Brews and Tales tour allows you to sample some of Amsterdam’s favourite craft beers and find out the story of the people behind the beers, too.

Prix de Rome

The Prix de Rome is the most prestigious Dutch award for visual artists under 40 and architects under 35. It aims to encourage and enhance the visibility of emerging artists and, for the first time ever, works by the shortlisted artists will be displayed at the Stedelijk Museum. Expect contemporary pieces by little-known creatives who might just be the next big thing. The exhibition will go on display from October 2019 to March 2020.

Discover Zuidoost

A 15-minute metro ride from the city centre, the little-visited Zuidoost neighbourhood began as a modernist housing project designed in the 1960s, but today has reshaped itself as a creative multicultural neighbourhood, which continues to make its mark.

The initial revolutionary plans promised to create a utopia for residents, but in reality the buildings and infrastructure made for a far-from-ideal living environment and this part of the city was often considered a no-go area for many Amsterdammers.

Fast forward 50 years and you’ll find some of the best street art murals in the city. Projects such as the Heesterveld Creative Community combine art galleries with the biggest selection of world cuisine in the city. Don’t miss World of Food — a former parking garage turned street food hub. Stalls serve everything from hearty jollof (a Ghanaian rice dish) to Surinamese pastries.

Vegans rejoice! Vegan Junk Food Bar expands to new locations across the city © Claire Bissell/Lonely Planet
Vegans rejoice! Vegan Junk Food Bar expands to new locations across the city © Claire Bissell/Lonely Planet

Eat vegan

A trend that doesn’t look like it will be going away anytime soon, vegan eateries are making their mark on the Amsterdam food scene. From comforting plant-based junk food to exquisite vegan cheeses, there’s something to suit every palate with meals that can be enjoyed by vegans and non-vegans alike.

The popular and rapidly expanding Vegan Junk Food Bar now has four locations across the city and continues to diversify its plant-based menu. Much to the delight of vegans with an affinity for Japanese cuisine, they recently launched their very own vegan sashimi, which tastes very much like the real deal.

A sustainable stay

The Dutch capital continues to stand at the forefront of sustainable living — after all, there aren’t many capital cities where you’ll see more bikes than cars. Beyond two-wheeled transportation, Amsterdam has added a host of ways to add a sustainable focus to your trip.

The ribbon has just been cut for Fashion for Good, the world’s first sustainable fashion museum, while Instock turns rescued food into meals, helping to reduce waste. For sightseeing with a difference, cruise along the canals whilst fishing for litter with Plastic Whale. Not only will you be helping clean up the city, there’s even a prize for the most original object pulled from the canals.

A first-time guide to Barbados

If you’re visiting Barbados for the first time, expect to slow down.

This is not the place for hustle and bustle. In Barbados, life is lived at a laid-back and leisurely pace. It’s a place where you might spend so long lounging on the beach, sipping on rum punches, that you might end up missing your dinner reservations. And you won’t even mind. 

That doesn’t mean there isn’t plenty to do here. We like to say that Barbados has a place for every kind of traveler – foodies, history buffs and nature lovers alike. 

You can come to the island and learn to surf or free dive, or spend your days at some of the finest golf courses in the Caribbean. Or get a bit tipsy, as you sip on the some of world’s best rum. 

Indeed, there’s a lot to do here – but you mustn’t try to rush as you pack it all in. For while Barbados is many things – romantic, friendly, tropical, even idyllic – it’s first and foremost very, very chill. 

People lie on sun loungers under umbrellas and a flowering tree growing over the sand as the waves wash ashore, Mullins Beach, Barbados
There’s never a bad season for chilling out in Barbados. Kyle Babb for Lonely Planet

When should I go to Barbados? 

There isn’t necessarily any one “best” time to visit Barbados, a tropical destination that’s pretty much sunny year-round, with very little temperature variation (with an average daytime high of 30°C / 86°F). 

June to December is the rainy season, when the weather tends to be wetter and the chance of a hurricane hitting the island increases.

This doesn’t mean it’s a bad time to visit, though: travel between April and November, the long low season, can be more affordable. From December through March, expect significantly higher flight prices and accommodation costs as the country welcomes the most visitors of the year.

Consider planning your trip around seasonal events. From late July to early August, you can experience the exciting and vibrant Crop Over festival, while the tasty Barbados Food and Rum festival takes place every year in late October. 

Running enthusiasts might want to plan their trip around the first weekend in December for Run Barbados, the Caribbean’s biggest marathon weekend. If you’re a lover of motor sports, late May  and early June in Barbados is known as Rally season.

How much time should I spend in Barbados? 

I always recommend five days as the perfect amount of time. If you jet in for just two days or a weekend, you’re sure to leave wishing you spent more time here. 

This is due to our slower, less-structured pace of life. (That again.) Maybe that restaurant that you’re dying to try is only open Wednesday through Sunday, with limited hours.

Or perhaps you planned to pack in a bunch of different activities in one day, but you end up only making it to one because…you fell asleep on the beach. Or the bus you planned to catch was 30 minutes late. It happens.

Shot from inside of a Reggae Reggae bus looking through the windshield. There are people sitting around the bus.
You can count on public buses and private “ZRs” to get you around the more densely populated areas of Barbados. Frank Fell Media/Shutterstock

Is it easy to get in and around Barbados? 

Nonstop flights serve Barbados from many major cities, including New York, Miami, Boston, Atlanta, Toronto and even London. Grantley Adams International Airport is about 20 minutes from the capital city of Bridgetown.

A taxi from the airport to your accommodation is your best option; you won’t have trouble finding one once you arrive.

About that accommodation: where you stay is an important consideration when it comes to getting around the island.

The island’s public-transportation system consists of public buses and private “route taxis” known affectionately as “ZRs” (pronounced (“zed-ars”) that can get you around easily. 

But some areas are more accessible than others. For instance, the island’s south coast, popular with tourists, is relatively accessible to many attractions, with the bus routes and transportation options to match.

Yet if you opt to stay on the more rustic east coast, you should rent a car as public transportation is more limited.

Top things to do in Barbados 

A man cooks fish on a grill as flames leap up at Oistins Fish Market in Barbados
A Friday-night fish dinner at Oistins Bay Garden is a Barbados rite of passage. Kyle Babb for Lonely Planet

Hit up Oistins on a Friday night

No trip to Barbados is complete without a stop at Oistins Bay Garden, an open-air fish fry that comes alive on Friday nights with music, karaoke and other entertainment.

Barbados is known for its deliciously seasoned fresh fish, and Oistins, in the heart of the island’s primary fishing village, is one of the best places to sample this local specialty. 

Sip on delicious local rum

Since Barbados is considered the birthplace of rum (it’s been distilled here since the 17th century), you shouldn’t visit the island without taking a rum tour.

You’ll learn the ins and outs of rum distillation and the spirit’s long relationship with the island while sampling some of the finest rums in the world.

Some tours include a cocktail-making class, during which you’ll learn the secrets to Barbados’ signature rum punch – which will surely be a hit at your next dinner party.

A green turtle swims near a colorful color reef and amid striped tropical fish, near Barbados
Snorkeling with sea turtles is always a thrill. Kat Harrison/Getty Images

Snorkel with the turtles in Carlisle Bay

A catamaran cruise along the idyllic coast of the island is a must-do activity in and of itself. And snorkeling with sea turtles takes the experience to the next level.

There’s something incomparable about witnessing the grandeur and majesty of sea turtles in warm, crystal-clear water. I simply cannot recommend this enough.

Create your own island tour via Mini Moke

Rentals of Mini Moke electric vehicles are an extremely affordable and popular option for tourists looking for a self-planned day-long excursion.

With your own wheels, you can hit popular tourist attractions like Codrington College, the lion at Gun Hill Signal Station and Animal Flower Cave.

This is a great way to experience Barbados on your own terms, while enjoying the sun on your face and the sweet island breeze in your hair. Pack a lunch, grab some friends and hit the road.

A couple walks along the beach at Pebbles Beach at sunset, with the masts of moored sailboats in the distance, Barbados
Sunsets on Barbabos’ west coast never dispppoint. Kyle Babb for Lonely Planet

My favorite thing to do in Barbados 

I know it sounds basic. Yet sitting beachside, sipping a refreshing cocktail (rum sours are my drink of choice) and watching the sun set on the island’s west coast never gets old for me.

It’s picture-perfect-postcard magic. Between the sun leaving pink and purple streaks across the sky, and the waters brushing against the shore, it’s truly a beautiful way to end your day. And start your night. 

How much money do I need for Barbados? 

Barbados’ prices lie on the higher end of the spectrum. Yet as with any destination, there are plenty of ways you can lower the cost of your trip – such as taking advantage of specials, booking early and eating at budget-friendly spots.

Note that prices spike in the high season (December to March), especially for accommodation.

Most establishments accept cards, but be sure to have cash if you want to purchase items from street vendors. US dollars are widely accepted. 

  • Basic hotel room for two: BDS$400–600 (US$200–300) per night

  • Self-catering apartment (including Airbnb): BDS$300 (US$150) per night

  • Public transport ticket: BDS$3.50 (US$1.75)

  • Coffee: BDS$6–10 (US$3–5)

  • Fish cutter (sandwich) at Cuzz’s fish shack: BDS$12 (US$6)

  • Casual dinner for two: BDS$70–100 (US$35–50)

  • Dinner for two at a high-end restaurant: BDS$250–400+ (US$125–200+)

  • Rum punch: BDS$10–15 (US$5–7.50)

8 aphrodisiacs from around the world you’ve never heard of

We all know luxury aphrodisiacs like Champagne, chocolate and oysters. But how about asparagus or blowfish? More utilitarian than romantic, unusual aphrodisiacs like these have been in play since humans could procreate.

Originally sought after as cures for infertility, these items have become inexorably tied to pleasure. So if you’re looking for a little assistance in the love department, here are aphrodisiacs from around the globe to try.

Ambergris

Ambergris is sometimes inaccurately referred to as “whale vomit,” because it originates from the stomach of a sperm whale. A waxy substance produced to protect the organ from indigestible squid beaks, it builds up and is expelled. When it makes its way to the surface, ambergris is one of the most expensive substances on the planet. Its musky aroma made it a fixture in historical perfumes and it has also been ingested for its lusty-inducing properties – it’s said that Casanova liked to add it to his chocolate mousse.

Bird’s nest soup

First, find the nest of a cave-dwelling swiftlet, found mostly in Southeast Asia. Next, soak the nest in water overnight, making sure to remove the feathers and other unsavory bits. Mix with ingredients like chicken broth, onions, sherry, and egg white and voila, bird’s nest soup. With a consistency similar to egg drop soup, the dish is said to smooth the skin, boost the immune system and assist in the bedroom. Oh, and did we mention the nests are made of swiftlet’s saliva? Yes, you’re drinking a bowl of spit.

A pair of durian fruits have been cut open to show the fleshy portions
The durian fruit has been scientifically proven to increase sex drive (in rats at least) © Simon Long / Getty Images

Durian

The Malaysian saying: “When the durians come down, the sarongs come off,” may surprise some who have come into contact with the notoriously pungent South Asian superfood. But in addition to being packed with nutrients, the silky fruit has also been proven scientifically to increase sex drive. Well, in rats anyway. In a lab when consumed by rats consistently over a month, the animals developed a larger sperm count, as well as big gains in libido.

Balut

Those familiar with Filipino cuisine have no doubt heard of the balut, a fertilized duck or chicken embryo that gives pause to even the most adventurous eaters. Warm, crunchy, and eaten straight out of the shell, it’s a common sight on the streets of the Philippines, valued as an energy booster and a sign of virility in men. Packed with protein and nutrients, the resulting stamina may account for the assertion that it’s also an aphrodisiac.

Thinly sliced fugu (puffer fish) is intricately arranged in the shape of a flower on a colorful plate.
It’s the danger of the pufferfish that makes the dish so appealing © Hiroyuki Takeno / Getty Images

Fugu

It could be the adrenaline rush knowing that you might die if your serving of fugu, or blowfish, isn’t prepared correctly. It could also be that when consumed – after being prepared by a highly-trained, specially-certified chef – there’s just a trace of the poison left in the Japanese delicacy, which causes a numbing and tingling sensation. Most likely it’s a combination of the two, but either way, fugu promotes the right kind blood flow, if you know what we mean.

Leafcutter ants

You wouldn’t normally think of ants as an appropriate wedding present, but in Colombia, you’d receive them with excitement. For over 500 years, these big-bottomed or leafcutter ants (hormigas culonas in Spanish) have been believed to get people in the mood. The females are harvested during the rainy months for a delicacy packed with protein and low in fat. When fried or toasted they taste a little nutty.

A woman holding a bunch of asparagus stares into the eyes of a man wearing glasses holding a pair of white asparagus at a farmer's market
White asparagus is a popular aphrodisiac in Germany © Westend61 / Getty Images

White asparagus

In culinary circles, the white asparagus is known for its sweet and mild flavor and abundance of nutrients. But in Germany, the vegetable has reached almost cult-like status for its aphrodisiac qualities. Beyond the telltale shape, the vegetable is known for its histamine production, which is said to ease and strengthen orgasms. Stock up – it’s only available from late April to mid-June.

Cow cod soup

The reasons cow cod soup is considered libido-enhancing are pretty straightforward – it contains “cod” or bull’s penis. This key ingredient is simmered with other additions like garlic, onion, root vegetables, green bananas and scotch bonnet peppers in a white rum-based broth, and Jamaican men swear by its passion-inducing properties. Don’t ask the ladies, though – this is strictly a men’s-only affair.

You might also like:

Swipe right: a traveler’s guide to dating apps
5 classic cocktails from around the world
The way we ate: four memorable travel meals

This article originally published in January 2020 and last updated in February 2021.

Phuket vs Bali: how to choose between these two divine islands

Anyone planning an island escape in Southeast Asia faces a tricky decision – in a region studded with sand-circled tropical islands that sizzle with fabulous food and overflow with culture, how do you pick just one?

This magical part of the world has enough island escapes to fill several lifetimes of travel, but regrettably, we only have one, so the shortlist has to be narrowed down. For a first taste of Southeast Asia’s islands, we’d make a strong pitch for Phuket in Thailand and Bali in Indonesia – both are rich in culture, wrapped in sparkling sands and accessible to everyone from students in flipflops to empty-nesters catching up on far-flung travel.

But which to choose… Luckily, we have a pair of seasoned travel writers on hand to make the case for each of these beloved island hubs. Read on to see if Phuket or Bali is the right escape for you.

From downtown markets to the karst landscapes of Ao Phang Nga National Park, Phuket is a sampling platter of Thai experiences. Sergii Figurnyi/Shutterstock
From downtown markets to the karst landscapes of Ao Phang Nga National Park, Phuket is a sampling platter of Thai experiences. Sergii Figurnyi/Shutterstock

Favor fabulous Phuket

Isabella Noble is a Barcelona-based travel journalist and the author of Lonely Planet’s Pocket Phuket guide. She has been spending time on this beautiful, sometimes underappreciated Thai island for almost a decade.

For anyone who loves Phuket – as I do – it’s a magical island that instantly defies the stereotypes without making any fuss. Thailand bursts with dreamy, laid-back, palm-filled islands washed by gentle turquoise waves, but Phuket (pronounced poo-ket) combines this tropical-paradise allure with the lively buzz, creative vibe and thrilling food scene of a dynamic urban hub.

Let’s start with those fabulous, flour-soft, salt-white beaches. My favorites are in the north of the island, including sparkling Hat Surin, endless Hat Bang Thao and wilder Hat Layan. Phuket’s three northwesternmost strands are a treat too: Hat Nai Yang, Hat Mai Khao and Hat Nai Thon all sit within the protected Sirinat National Park and have a blissfully relaxed, nature-first feel.

On the island’s southern tip, mellow Hat Rawai is another beachy beauty that I seek out on every visit. It’s known for its rustic seafood restaurants, buzzing kitesurfing scene and the powdery strands close by at Hat Nai Han. Blazing sunsets draw crowds to dramatic Laem Phromthep (Promthep Cape) and there’s an almost mystical feel as everyone simultaneously gazes out as the sun drops into the jade-colored Andaman Sea.

The dining scene in Phuket is a rich buffet of Thai flavors. Vladimir Razguliaev/Getty Images
The dining scene in Phuket is a rich buffet of Thai flavors. Vladimir Razguliaev/Getty Images

Phuket’s vibrant food scene

Phuket also has one of Thailand’s most irresistible food scenes, born from the mingling of Southeast Asian and Chinese cultures over the centuries (known here as Baba culture). The arty island capital, Phuket Town, is the culinary epicenter. A tin-mining hub in the 19th and 20th centuries, it’s filled with candy-colored Sino-Portuguese buildings, restored vintage shophouses and hidden shrines that burst into life during the September/October Vegetarian Festival.

I like popping into the Lock Tien food court, where Phuketian classics like mee hokkien (Hokkien noodles) and just-made spring rolls are served at plastic tables, or grabbing flaky roti bread topped with a fried egg at the always-popular Thai-Muslim breakfast spots on Thalang Rd. Long-running Mee Ton Poe is locally loved for its noodle dishes; Kopitiam does Phuket-style Thai classics; and Raya prepares its popular coconutty crab curry in a tile-covered Sino-Portuguese house.

On the fine-dining side, try the contemporary Sardinian delights dreamt up by superstar chef Alessandro Frau at Acqua; the elevated Phuketian flavors of Patong’s gorgeous, garden-facing Ta Khai; Cherngtalay’s elegant Suay for chef Noi Tammasak’s arty twist on Thai cuisine; or Michelin-starred PRU in northern Phuket. There’s plenty to enjoy on the local coffee scene, too, with hipster-style hangouts such as Phuket Town’s The Shelter Coffee and Bookhemian easily rivaling Chiang Mai’s famously cool cafe culture.

Phukety's weekend market is crammed with street food stands amongst the crafts stalls. Getty Images
Phukety’s weekend market is crammed with street food stands amongst the crafts stalls. Getty Images

I’ve happily spent time in Phuket with my brother, my partner and many friends over the years, but also as a solo female traveler. Whether you fancy a beachfront yoga class, heading out on a diving trip, visiting Buddhist temples (such as 150-year-old Wat Chalong) or perhaps tackling the sport of muay Thai (Thai boxing), Phuket’s activity calendar has it, and all kinds of travelers can expect a warm welcome here.

A signature Phuket highlight is escaping into gorgeous Ao Pha-Nga Marine National Park. Kayaking or paddle-boarding is the most rewarding, low-impact way to explore this bewitching bay dotted with limestone karst formations. Day trips to Ko Phi-Phi – where travelers are permitted to visit gorgeous Maya Bay under strict conservation rules – are perfectly doable, too.

And did you know there’s also great hiking in Phuket? Rewarding routes include the sweaty, jungle-traversing climb up to the 45m (150ft) Big Buddha in the Nakkerd Hills near Kata, as well as paths through the wild rainforests of northern Phuket’s Khao Phra Thaew Royal Wildlife & Forest Reserve – home to the pioneering Gibbon Rehabilitation Project.

Beaches in Phuket range from the busy to the blissfully calm. Igor Bukhlin/Shutterstock
Beaches in Phuket range from the busy to the blissfully calm. Igor Bukhlin/Shutterstock

Beachfront bliss

Nowhere does seductive beach hotels (or heavenly spas) like Phuket. You could go all out with a deluxe stay at one of Thailand’s top hideaways, such as Amanpuri, Trisara, The Surin Phuket or Rosewood Phuket. There are also fun, sociable hostels and design-forward boutique hotels, particularly in Phuket Town (Casa Blanca is a joy), alongside mellow beachside guesthouses in places such as west-coast Kamala.

Yet when I’m longing for this delicious island, I think of an early-morning stroll through Phuket Town, a plastic plate of steaming noodles at a toes-in-the-sand beach shack, or a soul-stirring swim in turquoise waves backed by rippling casuarinas. This is what Phuket is all about. No wonder the island has drawn people from all over the world for centuries.

The surf is always up on the beautiful island of Bali. Getty Images
The surf is always up on the beautiful island of Bali. Getty Images

It’d better be Bali

If Mark Eveleigh were told he could only travel in one country for the rest of his life, he’d choose Indonesia. This widely traveled journalist and author has written for numerous publications; check out his travel book, Kopi Dulu: 15,000km through Indonesia.

Overcrowded and overdeveloped? Or the world’s most beautiful island? I lean toward the latter.

The fabled “Island of the Gods,” Bali certainly sees its fair share of tourists. The town of Ubud, a famous yoga haven and art capital, has its dedicated devotees – as does Uluwatu, with its sublime temple and adrenaline-pumping surf. Kuta was once party central, even if the night owls are now heading to the beach clubs and cool cafes of Seminyak and booming Canggu.

Alongside five-star resorts such as Raffles and the Four Seasons that sprawl through tropical gardens and spill onto talcum-powder beaches, visitors can stay in a host of exciting new designer places, such as Lost Lindenberg and Nirjhara. And even as demand soars, you can still rent a simple, comfortable room with a private balcony overlooking a tropical garden for under $10 per night, breakfast included.

So, yes, tourism might be booming here. But on an island that’s over 10 times the size of Phuket, it’s still astoundingly easy to find an unspoiled corner.

Beaches in Bali can be thronged or beguilingly empty. Simon Long/Getty Images
Beaches in Bali can be thronged or beguilingly empty. Simon Long/Getty Images

Captivating culture and beguiling beaches

I’m a big fan of Thailand and have worked on many assignments in that wonderful country. But the colorful cast of gods and demons, ghosts and witches that play such a large part in traditional Balinese life fascinate me – so much, in fact, that they became central characters in my latest novel. Indeed, it’s the Balinese people that make the island uniquely appealing – not to mention one of the most culturally intriguing spots in the world.

When it comes to beaches, Bali and Phuket both boast palm-shaded white-sand beaches that make visitors drool. But only Bali has a law stipulating that no buildings can be tall enough to rise over those palm trees. Even the most congested tourist centers here have been spared from high-rise, Thai-style cityscapes.

In addition to the dreamy white beaches around Nusa Dua and the Bukit Peninsula, there are also romantic volcanic beaches where you can stroll for miles across a surface that shimmers like a black mirror, without seeing another holidaymaker. If you enjoy dramatic wave-smashed coastlines (and some of the world’s best surfing) then you should stick to the south coast; if you prefer tranquil reefs that lure dolphins, turtles and other marine life, head to the sheltered north coast.

Ubud serves up vivid views of tumbling rice terraces at every turn. Asyraf Rasid/Shutterstock
Ubud serves up vivid views of tumbling rice terraces at every turn. Asyraf Rasid/Shutterstock

An island of natural delights

When you’ve had enough of beaches, Bali’s volcanic highlands offer a smorgasbord of activities that little Phuket could barely dream of. The sunrise climb up 1717m (5633ft) Gunung Batur might be – justifiably – the most popular tour on the island, along with the trip to Ubud’s Monkey Forest.

Inland, you can also cycle downhill for 40km (25 miles), go whitewater rafting or explore jungles and peaks on foot, by horse or even by helicopter. In the island’s unspoiled “wild west,” you can walk with pink buffalo or visit what might be the planet’s most photogenic traditional fishing fleet.

The arid hillsides of Northern Bali are planted with cashew, dragon fruit and (surprisingly) even vineyards. To the south, the slopes are dominated by the giant stairways of terraced paddies, in places running right down the ocean.

Traditional selerek fishing boats bob off the coast of Jembrana on Bali. Denis Moskvinov/Shutterstock
Traditional selerek fishing boats bob off the coast of Jembrana on Bali. Denis Moskvinov/Shutterstock

I fell in love with Bali some two decades ago, and my ideal writing retreat is tucked away on the remote western side of the island. Every time I go back, I realize anew that West Bali might be the most achingly beautiful place on the planet.

This third of the island remains almost entirely overlooked by visitors; even the islanders themselves are often astounded to hear that West Bali National Park has deserted beaches where wild deer trot through the shallows, and jungle-clad hills that shelter hornbills, flying foxes and slender langur monkeys.

There are lots of places in the world with plenty to occupy you for a two-week vacation. Twenty years after my first visit to Bali, I’m still convinced that there’s enough here to keep me busy for a lifetime.

How to hike Mount Etna, Europe’s largest active volcano

It’s not for nothing that the Egyptian obelisk anchoring Catania’s central piazza supposedly possesses magical powers to temper Mt Etna. Sicily’s second-largest city lives at its mercy. The active volcano – Europe’s largest – buried the city in boiling lava in 1663 and has erupted at least 80 times in the last 100 years. In August 2024, an angry Etna shot a gigantic eruption cloud 10km (6 miles) high in the sky, spewed filthy black ash across cars and sidewalks in the city, and shut down both airports (again) on the Italian island. Little wonder, then, that climbing Mt Etna is no walk in the park.

Despite the hordes that flock to the volcano every year, hiking here is a serious undertaking. The smoke rings that puff gently into a bluebird sky occasionally from one of its multiple craters – four pock its 3369m-high (11,953ft) summit and there are 300-odd lateral craters – might hint at romance, but the reality is far less pretty. The footpath of lava rocks that I picked my way across with a volcanological guide back in July is already long gone, drowned in a new fireball sea of red lava that crashed down from Etna’s peak just weeks after I left. “We built this path by hand, rock by rock, after the last major eruption in December and will no doubt build many more,” my guide Mirto explained, handing me a fist-sized nugget of lava to feel, still toasty warm seven months later.

Etna is clearly not a mount to mess with. A typical mountain combo of high altitude and capricious weather, uniquely coupled with volcanic activity and a healthy dose of Sicilian hijinks, makes advance planning essential. Here’s how to tackle hiking on Mt Etna safely, soak in its otherworldly moonscapes, and feel the pulse of planet Earth in real-time.

The author, hikers and their guides climbing Mount Etna's slopes, ash hills and lava flows.
L-R: Hikers pick their way across lava flow; guide Mirto Monaco with writer Nicola Williams by the summit craters; the hikers run down an ash hill on the northern slopes. Nicola Williams for Lonely Planet

Consider the season and weather

What with sizzling-hot summer temperatures and high-season crowds, Sicily in August is never a brilliant idea. Snow can linger on Mt Etna’s summit well into April and return in November, making the shoulder seasons – April, May, September and October – the best months for hiking. Spring and fall days are pleasantly warm and sunny, there are fewer travelers, and pea-green cushions of springtime Saponaria blaze purple on Etna’s fertile lower slopes.

Book the right guide

Hiking on Mt Etna is strictly regulated. Tramping up an active volcano is not without risk or danger, and it is forbidden to venture above 2500m (8202ft) without an authorized Etna guide. A mind-boggling choice of companies offering guided hikes exists. Check your guide belongs to the Collegio Regionale delle Guide Alpine e Vulcanologiche (Regional College of Sicilian Alpine and Volcanology Guides) before parting with any cash.

I spent two exhilarating days hiking up to Mt Etna’s gigantic summit craters (off-limits since the August 2024 eruption), one with highly experienced alpine guide and backcountry skier Mirto Monaco from Gruppo Guide Alpine Etna Sud (Etna’s oldest guiding association, created in 1804). The other day was spent with environmental biologist and PhD student Giulia Bacilliere, one of seven female volcanologist guides in Sicily, at Gruppo Guide Etna Nord. The gems they shared – the jasmine-perfumed yellow Etna broom that thrives between rocks, the diverse snake species protected by Etna’s eponymous national park – magnified my awe and wonder tenfold.

Guided treks always depart at 8:30am or 9am, returning mid-afternoon before the weather changes.

Warm clothes and study footwear are essential

Forget beach attire – approach the Sicilian volcano in the same way you would a mountain in the Alps. Dress in layers, long trousers and wear sturdy closed shoes, preferably proper walking shoes or boots. Even when it‘s hot at lower altitudes, it’s cold and windy up top. Pack a wind jacket, warm headgear and gloves in your day pack. Ditto for sunscreen, sunglasses (against dust as well as sun glare), snood or scarf (to protect the face from dust and gas stenches) and water. If you wear contact lenses, bring glasses – dust levels are extreme.

Any missing gear, including hiking boots, warm jacket and trekking poles for the less sure-footed, can be borrowed directly at guides’ huts. Most trek rates include kit rental.

Hikers climbing up Etna Sud on a clear day in July.
The hikers circle the summit craters on Etna Sud. Nicola Williams for Lonely Planet

Choose between Etna Nord and Etna Sud

You can approach Mt Etna two ways: from the wilder north (closest to Taormina, 30 miles northeast) or more-developed south (closest to Catania, 24 miles southeast).

Etna’s northern slopes, known as Etna Nord, entice hardened hikers after a feral, no-holds-barred experience. Guided treks leave from Piano Provenzana, a dot of a ski resort at 1800m (5905ft), comprising little more than a solitary row of wooden huts sheltering trekking guides. The serpentine drive up – from small town Linguaglossa (30 minutes), built in 1556 on an ancient lava stream, or the attractive village of Giarre (45 minutes) – winds through lemon groves, vineyards, beech forest and surreal steel-black fields of diabolical, frozen-in-time lava flow. Look out for the occasional old stone house half-buried in lava flow, harder than marble once cold and impossible to shift or clear away ever.

The mainstream tourist crowd favors Etna Sud. Hikes up the busier southern slopes start from Piazzale Rifugio Sapienza (1910m/6626ft), a sprawling square named after its eponymous refuge (restaurant and rooms), with a chaotic jumble of souvenir huts, sports shops and fast-food joints. This is the spot to hop aboard Mt Etna’s lone cable car, up to a panoramic 2500m (8202ft). From here, when volcanic activity allows, non-hikers can board a purpose-built 4WD bus to creep further uphill and explore the surreal lunar landscape with an accredited guide on board.

Getting there can be a challenge

It’s not easy without your own wheels. There is no public transport to/from Piano Provenzana (Etna Nord), but Go Etna offers reliable minibus transfers from Taormina and Catania, and works with top-drawer guides from Gruppo Guide Etna Nord once in situ. Book Go Etna tours at least a few days in advance in season.

To get to Etna Sud, one daily AST bus trundles from Piazza Giovanni XXIII in front of Catania train station to Rifugio Sapienza (2 hours, €6.60). Be warned: buying a bus ticket online does not secure a seat on the always-rammed bus, departing from Catania at 8:15am and illogically arriving well after guided treks have left for the day. Should there be a spare seat (rare, even if you rock up an hour in advance of departure), the driver sells tickets. The return bus, equally packed, leaves Rifugio Sapienza at 4:30pm.

In Catania you’ll most likely end up fighting off taxi drivers hawking aggressively for business among the thongs of disappointed bus hopefuls. A return ride by taxi from Catania (1 hour) should cost no more than €120 for four passengers, including waiting time while you hike. Negotiate hard, only pay half the fare up front, and save the driver’s telephone number in your phone before striding out on Mt Etna.

Plenty of organized tours depart directly from downtown Catania to Etna Sud. Most will pick you up and drop you off at your hotel.

Families walking around extinct Silvestri Crater.
The landscape is incredulous and varied, whichever trail you follow. Nicola Williams for Lonely Planet

What to expect on the hike

Brace yourself for high drama in spades. Trek routes are dictated by volcanic activity – 120 seismic cameras, satellites and sensors on Etna’s slopes measure and record every last tremor and physical movement, making it one of the world’s most monitored peaks.

The kaleidoscopic landscape is incredulous and varied, whichever trail you follow. Think: tramping across barren black lava fields, scraping away ash to uncover last winter’s snow perfectly preserved beneath, gawping at gas-spitting fumaroles and tens of extinct lateral craters, running down dusty ash hills with not a care in the world (and shoes full of grit once you arrive at the bottom). The rainbow of earthy hues – fire red, ocher, black and gold – is breathtaking, as is the frequent gale-force wind and stench of sulphuric gas in volcanic deserts at higher altitude.

Most guided treks are bookended by a ride in a 4WD vehicle (Etna Nord) or cable car (Etna Sud) to reduce the climb; some duck into lava caves. Guides provide protective helmets which must be worn at all times. A reasonable level of fitness and agility is required for higher-altitude hikes, which typically cover 6km (3.7 miles) in four to five hours.

How to hike Mount Etna with children and inexperienced hikers

Families with very young children and inexperienced hikers don’t need to miss out. The volcano’s lower slopes around 2000m (6560ft) are easy to walk to from Etna Sud’s Rifugio Sapienza and promise high drama too. From Ristorante Crateri Silvestri, a flat and easy 1km (0.6-mile) footpath loops around the top of the extinct, 19th-century Silvestri Crater. Across the street, another signposted path (25 minutes) curves steeply uphill, past the restaurant La Capannina, to a crater formed by a 2001 eruption.

One option to minimize walking is to hop in the cable car. From there, ogle in awe at the mind-blowing myriad of lateral craters polka-dotting Etna’s sprawling slopes below, grab a drink with a lunar desert view at the top-station cafe, then cruise back down without flexing a muscle.

When to go to Vail, an all-season destination (really!)

There’s endless skiing in the cold season in Vail – and plenty to do in this beautiful mountain town once ski season ends.

Situated in the Gore Range of Colorado’s Rocky Mountains, about 100 miles west of Denver, Vail is a popular winter destination for skiing and snowboarding. And though Vail Ski Resort and nearby Beaver Creek Resort attract visitors from all over the world during the Centennial State’s cold and snowy months, Vail’s deluxe hotels, luxurious spas, fine-dining restaurants, manicured golf courses and rugged hiking trails mean you’ll find something exciting here in every season.

Winter in the Vail Valley means steep hotel rates, bustling restaurants and busy ski slopes. Though these days, summer prices approach those of ski season, you can still find deals, while you’ll have more of the mountains to yourself during Vail’s shoulder seasons, in spring and fall. If you’re planning your next trip to the Rockies, consult this season-by-season guide to Vail first.

A skier catches air on a steep slope with snow-covered pines and mountains in the distance, Vail
The winter high season delivers epic thrills for skiers – with prices to match. Patrick Orton/Getty Images

December to April is for world-class skiing and snowboarding

Winter has historically been the busiest season in Vail by a wide margin. These peak months are the most expensive time to visit Vail, with skiers and snowboarders driving up demand at ski-in/ski-out hotels like Grand Hyatt Vail and The Arrabelle at Vail Square. If hotel rates are sky-high, so are the stoke levels, especially on powder days. The weather is snowy, cold and perfect for hitting the slopes, cozying up by a fireplace or getting a massage at one of Vail’s many spas. Even as the temperatures tick up slightly as spring approaches, snow continues to fall. Spring break brings another influx of visitors, while April ushers in spring skiing in Vail – bluebird skies, soft snow conditions and a fun, upbeat après-ski scene. Beaver Creek and Vail resorts typically close in the middle of the month.

Mountain bikers seen from the rear riding down a trail in the woods in Vail
In the warmer months, Vail’s trails beckon to mountain bikers. Daniel Milchev/Getty Images

Score deals on lodging and activities from April to June

Spring weather in the Rockies can be wildly variable – a whiteout snowstorm one day, sunny blue skies the next – but this slower-paced season also offers the best value and the smallest crowds in Vail. When ski season ends, typically in late April, Vail settles into its low season, when hotels are at their most affordable. Hiking trails are muddy as the snow begins to melt, and some local businesses close for a few weeks. Yet with a little advanced planning (and realistic expectations!), you can still have a great trip and even enjoy a reduced-rate stay at some of Vail’s poshest hotels. In mid to late June, Vail Ski Resort and Beaver Creek Resort typically reopen for summer operations, which include scenic gondola rides, hiking, mountain biking, golf and adventure activities like bungee trampolines and mountain coasters. June marks the start of Vail’s beloved recurring summer offerings like the farmers market.

A young woman stands on a mountain side covered in wildflowers overlooking a mountain lake (Booth Lake) in Colorado, near Vail
With blooming wildflowers and temperatures in the mid-70s, summer is Vail is made for mountain hikes. Patrick Orton/Getty Images

Summer activities in the mountains abound between June and September

In the summer, Vail’s low humidity and mild weather draw an increasing number of hikers, mountain bikers, whitewater rafters, fly fishers and other outdoor adventurers. Come July, wildflowers begin to bloom, and Gore Creek rushes with runoff. It’s a prime time to plan a trip focused on outdoor activities, particularly a stroll through the colorful flower beds of the Betty Ford Alpine Gardens. Nightly rates are high, especially on weekends, and hotels book up fast. (While its growing popularity is inching prices higher, summer is still more affordable than winter.)

For adventurous hikers, early August is a great time to summit one of the region’s “13ers” – mountains above 13,000ft in elevation – since the high-alpine snow and ice have finally melted. Temperatures are in the mid-70s, perfect for cycling over Vail Pass on the bike path or going backpacking with llamas. The aspen leaves typically start to turn yellow around mid-September (though exact timing varies from year to year).

Aspen trees in Vail beginning to turn yellow, against a brilliant blue sky
Leaf peepers flock to Vail to catch the glorious yellow foliage of the aspens © Julie Klene / Lonely Planet

Enjoy relaxed hikes and fall colors from September to November

Fall in Vail is laid-back and relaxed, with near-perfect weather for outdoor pursuits and seasonal events like Oktoberfest. On weekends in late September and October, leaf peepers flock to Vail to catch the changing Colorado’s famous golden-yellow aspen leaves (driving hotel rates up, especially on weekends; weekdays are mostly quiet). Since it’s shoulder season, some attractions and restaurants close to give their employees a break and tackle maintenance projects before ski season.

Vail Ski Resort typically opens in mid-November, with Beaver Creek not far behind. While the still-early season for skiing and snowboarding means limited terrain, plenty of eager travelers spend Thanksgiving on the slopes regardless. Plus, since Vail recently expanded its snowmaking system (adding an extra 200 acres of new snowmaking terrain to its existing 430 acres), the resort is less reliant on Mother Nature for snow and can open more runs in November. Lots of people plan ski trips to Vail and Beaver Creek during their kids’ winter breaks from school, when the town is aglow with holiday lights, and there are lots of festive gatherings and celebrations to attend.

31 unusual love and marriage customs from around the world

Love is universal, yes – but romance takes an astonishing array of forms around the world. We’ve uncovered some of the world’s most fascinating dating, love and marriage customs, from sweet to downright sinister. If you’ve never wooed your beloved with a spoon, won your partner’s weight in beer or been to a spinsters’ ball, read on…

1. China’s bridesmaid blockade

As if the wedding day wasn’t stressful enough, when the Chinese groom comes to fetch his bride he’s confronted by a barrage of bridesmaids blocking his entrance. After demanding red envelopes of money, the bridesmaids (and sometimes even the groomsmen) subject the groom to a series of games and physical tasks – he is forced to sing and generally teased to prove his love.

2. Wife-carrying World Championships

Each year competitors the world over gather in the village of Sonkarjävi, Finland, to partake in this bizarre sporting event. With wife or partner (marriage isn’t a necessity) slung over the shoulder, participants get stuck into a variety of challenges and the winner receives the partner’s weight in beer as well as significant kudos.

3. Whale’s tooth gifts

Think you’ve got it hard, traipsing around the shops for that perfect wedding gift? How about this – in Fiji it’s common practice when asking for a woman’s hand in marriage that the man presents his soon-to-be father-in-law with a tabua (a sperm whale’s tooth). Because, let’s face it, it’s not real love unless you have to dive hundreds of metres beneath the ocean and go toe to fin with one of the world’s largest mammals.

Multi-coloured lanterns with messages for Korean Valentine's Day in Seoul, South Korea.
Lanterns for Korean Valentine’s Day ok_fotoday / Shutterstock

4. Korea’s monthly Valentine’s Day

Why have one day when you can have 12? Well, in Korea they don’t just celebrate Valentine’s Day on 14 February – in fact, the 14th day of every month holds a special kind of romantic significance. With days for singletons, days for forgiveness and days just to hug, there’s something to celebrate no matter what your relationship status.

5. Blackening of the bride

In this (somewhat gross) Scottish pre-wedding tradition, the bride-to-be, and sometimes even her groom, are pelted with all manner of disgusting things from rotten eggs to treacle and fish and are paraded through the streets. The Scots believe this humiliation serves to better prepare a couple for married life. It certainly brings a whole new meaning to the term ‘blushing bride’!

6. Toilet tradition in Borneo

The Bornean Tidong tribe, which boasts some of the most heart-meltingly sweet wedding traditions, is also home to one of the most gut-churningly unique customs. After their special day, newlyweds are not allowed to leave their own house for three days and three nights, not even to use the bathroom. The ritual, which involves constant supervision and a restricted diet, is said to bring the couple good luck in their marriage.

Newlywed couple leaving flowers on the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier in Moscow.
Newlyweds leaving flowers on the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier in Moscow. Jonathan Smith / Lonely Planet

7. Graveside weddings in Russia

The Tomb of the Unknown Soldier in Moscow may seem like an unlikely marital hotspot. However, in Russia, it is traditional for newly-wedded couples to visit the site, snap some photos and pay their respects by laying flowers and wreaths on the tomb.

8. The tragic myth of Imilchil Marriage Festival

Set against the mystery and romance of the Atlas Mountains, legend tells the story of two star-crossed lovers forbidden to see each other. In a Romeo-and-Juliet-esque twist of fate, the heartbroken couple drowned in their own tears, forcing their families to reconcile and establish what’s now known as Morocco’s Imilchil Marriage Festival. Each year feasting, flirting and frivolity is the backdrop for local tribespeople to socialise and potentially meet their future partner.

9. Step inside a courting hut

Think you had cool parents growing up? Think again. In a revolutionary parenting style, some African tribes provide their daughters with ‘courting huts’ to entertain potential suitors away from the parents’ gaze. A similar custom exists in Cambodia, where unmarried teens are even encouraged to use these huts to explore multiple partners, both socially and sexually, all in a quest to find that one true love.

Exhibits including an urn and a pair of red stilettos at the Museum of Broken Relationships in Croatia.
The poignant Museum of Broken Relationships in Croatia. paul prescott / Shutterstock

10. Croatia’s Museum of Broken Relationships

This weird and wonderful exhibition in Zagreb, Croatia, features a quirky collection of amorous mementos and random paraphernalia (donated by people from across the globe) left behind after a break-up. The unifying power of heartbreak has had such a draw that the exhibition has toured across the world, and a second permanent branch was opened in Los Angeles in 2016.

11. Romance written in a chicken liver

We’ve all heard of cutting the cake, but cutting the chicken? The Daur people of China have a tradition for couples who become engaged to dissect a chicken and inspect its liver. If the liver is a healthy shape, this is seen as a good omen and a date can be set. If not, the couple must keep searching for that prophetic liver.

12. Tears of joy in China

It’s definitely acceptable to get a little teary at the wedding, but a month before might be overkill. However, for China’s Tujia people it’s customary for the bride-to-be to begin weeping for an hour a day one month before the wedding. Sometime after, her mother joins in, and so on until all the women of the family are shedding a habitual tear. Despite the tears, this is a joyous celebration and it’s said that the different sounds of the women crying are almost like a song.

Padlocks attached to the Ponte Milvio in Rome; the red one in the foreground says
Padlocks on Ponte Milvio in Rome. Matteo Gabrieli / Shutterstock

13. Love padlocks in Italy

Inspired by Federico Moccia’s book and film I Want You, many people began attaching their own love padlocks to the Ponte Milvio in Rome. In what is now a worldwide phenomenon, couples attach the locks – often complete with a Sharpied proclamation of love – and throw the key into the river as a symbol of their unbreakable love and commitment to one another. Today, however, many cities have banned these amorous trinkets as they have become environmental and structural hazards. Perhaps a simple poem would suffice instead.

14. Russia puts the romance back into Valentine’s Day

On 8 March Russians celebrate Women’s Day. In a custom similar to Valentine’s Day, women are presented with gifts of flowers and chocolate, as well as the chance to put their feet up whilst the men take care of everything else.

15. The bride doll

This simple and sweet Puerto Rican tradition sees a bride doll draped in charms and placed at the head of the top table of the wedding reception. Towards the end of the celebrations, the charms are handed out to the guests as tokens of love and thanks.

People in costumes and makeup performing at the Gerewol Festival in Niger.
Performers at the Gerewol Festival in Niger. Homo Cosmicos / Shutterstock

16. Ladies’ choice at Gerewol Festival

In an annual courtship event, the men of the Wodaabe Fula in Niger dress up in elaborate costumes, put on make-up and dance and sing in a bid to win a bride. At the end of the performance it’s the women who get to do the choosing.

17. White Day in Japan

On Valentine’s Day in Japan it’s the women who buy chocolates for the men. But never fear, ladies: one month later it’s White Day, when the chaps have to splash out for the girls if their feelings are mutual. Oh, and did we mention they are expected to spend twice as much?

18. Love spoons in Wales

This adorable Welsh tradition gives a whole new meaning to the term ‘spooning’. The beau presents their lover with a meticulously carved wooden spoon as a gesture that they will always feed and provide for them. If the affections are not mutual, the spoon is returned (awkward), but if the spooning is successful, the sweetheart must wear it around their neck for a number of days.

19. Juliet’s balcony in Verona, Italy

Step back in time into the greatest love story ever. Each year thousands flock to Verona’s Casa di Giulietta, a 14th-century house believed to have belonged to the Capulets (never mind that they were all fictional characters), to add their amorous graffiti and notes of adoration to the courtyard walls where once fair Juliet was wooed by her Romeo.

20. Ghadames Date Festival

As the date harvest comes to an end in Ghadames, Libya, locals flock to the World Heritage–listed old quarter to relish in their fruitful harvest. As the festivities progress, expect to see many wedding ceremonies held as a coming-of-age celebration for young men.

21. Bachelor and Spinster Balls in Australia’s Outback

A cherished Aussie tradition, B and S Balls offer a rare opportunity for youngsters from the bush to socialise – that would be the censored version. Notorious for binge drinking, dangerous stunts and casual sex, these parties are under pressure from insurance companies to close down. But beneath the dust and debauchery, the Balls are loaded with that quintessential Aussie joie de vivre and are seen as a rite of passage for kids in the Outback who often lead quite secluded lives.

22. Mt Hagen sing-sings

Deep in the jungles of Papua New Guinea you’ll find this amazing display of colour, cacophony and courtship. The tribesmen paint their bodies and don colourful feathered costumes in an attempt to impress potential lovers. The sing-sings are a kind of spiritual mimesis – the tribesmen take on the form and mating rituals of the male birds-of-paradise in a kaleidoscopic show of affection.

23. My big ‘rich’ Greek wedding

Known for their ebullient spirit, Greek weddings are definitely on our radar. A particularly wonderful tradition is the couple’s first dance, when guests pin money to the bride’s and groom’s clothing leaving them twirling about the floor entwined in decorative (not to mention, expensive) paper streams. Believe it or not, this custom is actually considered an honour for the guests.

24. Henna tattoos

A key feature in Arabic and African communities is the Swahili women’s custom to adorn themselves with intricate henna patterns before a wedding. They signify the bride’s beauty, womanhood and worth, so she, naturally, boasts the most elaborate designs – except for the mother of the bride, perhaps. Aside from their aesthetic delights, these tattoos represent an empowering, sensual quality in Swahili culture, as the design often conceals the groom’s initials in a secret spot on the bride’s body.

A bride and groom jump over a broom at their wedding ceremony in the USA.
Jumping the broom in the USA’s Deep South. In The Light Photography /Shutterstock

25. Jumping the broom

A custom from the American Deep South, ‘jumping the broom’ means the newlyweds leap hand-in-hand over a ceremonial broom, which symbolises the start of their journey into domesticity and a new life together. Born in the time of slavery, when the wedding vows and ceremonies of African Americans were not recognised, this humble tradition pays homage to a rich and important African American heritage.

26. Separation before ceremony?

Divorce is a fairly common occurrence these days – still, it should be the furthest thing from your mind on your wedding day, right? Apparently not in the Ukraine, where extremely traditional couples take revenge on their matchmaker by burning an effigy of them at their wedding ceremony in anticipation of a potential messy divorce in the future.

27. Tree’s the one for me

Some unlucky girls in India are born during the astrological period when Mars and Saturn are both under the seventh house. What’s so wrong with that, you ask? Basically, it means they are cursed. Those unfortunate few, known as Mangliks, are said to bring an early death to their husband. The only remedy, it would seem, is to have the Manglik marry a tree and then have the tree cut down to break the curse.

28. France’s toilet tradition

In a weird, wonderful, yet utterly gross fashion, French newlyweds were made to drink the leftovers from their wedding party out of a toilet bowl. Yuk! Thankfully, this custom no longer exists in its entirety, but don’t be surprised if you come across the bride and groom supping on chocolates and champagne served out of a replica toilet bowl. How romantic.

29. Beating the groom’s feet

In Korea, after the wedding ceremony it’s commonplace for the groom to have his feet whipped with fish and canes before he is allowed to leave with his new wife. Supposedly, this bizarre act of cruelty proves the groom’s strength and character.

30. Eloping in Scotland

When the Marriage Act of 1754 made it illegal for persons under 21 to get hitched, young English sweethearts came up with a cunning plan to simply hop across the border to Scotland where the law didn’t apply. As the first village en route, Gretna Green grew to be the favourite spot for eloping couples – to this day, more than 2000 couples visit each year to tie the knot or reaffirm their vows.

31. Salty bread to inspire romantic dreams

In a celebration of the feast of St Sargis, the patron saint of young love, unmarried Armenian women eat a slice of salty bread in the hopes of having a prophetic dream about the man they’ll marry. Not to be taken too seriously, the idea is that the man who brings you water in your dream is your future beau. It’s also a kind of bonding ritual for the women in the family to share and interpret each other’s dreams.

You might also like these:

Pop the question at the world’s best engagement destinations
Wild weddings: where to get married outdoors in the UK
Classic romantic trips with an adventurous twist

Researched and compiled by Louise Bastock. This article was first published in June 2014 and updated in February 2020.

How to drive the entire Blue Ridge Parkway in five days

High up in the Appalachian mountains between Virginia and North Carolina, there’s a gently winding road that seems frozen in time. There are hardly any restaurants, stores, billboards or even homes on this route. Some of the only hints of civilization are rustic stone mile markers and nondescript signs signifying upcoming trails and overlooks.

This is the Blue Ridge Parkway, a road that exists solely for the pleasure of driving through some of the East Coast’s most stunning mountain landscapes. At 469 miles from end to end, it’s a delightfully meandering escape from the bustle of typical American roadways.

Growing up in the hills of Amherst County, Virginia, the Parkway was practically at my doorstep. It’s where my family went for leisurely Sunday drives, picnics by mountain streams in the summer and leaf-peeping in the fall. My childhood memories include hiking beside waterfalls, spotting bears in the forest, and scrambling to the summit of some of the highest peaks in the Appalachian Mountains. I’ve traveled all over the world since then, but I still consider the Blue Ridge Parkway to be one of the most beautiful places in the world.

Technically, you could drive the entire Parkway in a day, but you could also spend weeks exploring the forests along the road. There are plenty of entry and exit points along the Parkway, which means your drive can be as long or as short as you want. Here, we’ll be sharing how to drive the entirety of the Parkway in five days, but you can just as easily choose your favorite stretch and focus your attention there.

  • Trip length: The Blue Ridge Parkway stretches 469 miles through the Appalachian Mountains, between Shenandoah National Park and Great Smoky Mountains National Park. In good conditions, you could complete the route without stopping in about 10 hours – but taking your time is the point of this trip, so take at least a weekend to explore.

  • When to go: The views of the Appalachian Mountains from the Parkway are spectacular year-round, but they’re most stunning in the fall, when the foliage is at its peak. This is also the busiest time on the Parkway, so be prepared for more traffic, especially on the weekends. If you go in the winter, check ahead for road closures, as the higher elevations often get more snow and ice than lower areas.

  • Where to begin and where to end: The north end of the Parkway begins at Rockfish Gap near Waynesboro, Virginia. It ends in Cherokee, North Carolina. There are numerous access points along the way, many of them convenient to major highways.

  • Things to know: The speed limit on the Parkway doesn’t exceed 45 mph – and it sometimes drops even lower to account for dramatically sharp turns and steep hills. Plan to drive about 30 miles in an hour, minus any stops. Keep an eye out for wildlife, cyclists and rockslides. If you’re not accustomed to mountain driving, be prepared for steep grades, narrow shoulders and limited sight distances. Most importantly, keep your eyes on the road if you’re driving, and wait for the overlooks to enjoy the views.

  • What to pack: If you plan to take advantage of the many hiking trails along the Parkway, wear proper footwear and attire. Temperatures in the mountains are often much cooler than lower elevations – pack layers. Cell phones will not always have reception on the more remote stretches, so it’s a good idea to have a paper map and a general idea of your route. Come with a full tank of gas, snacks and water so you won’t have to exit the Parkway until you’re ready.

  • Tips for EV drivers: Electric vehicle drivers will need some extra planning to ensure that their vehicles stay charged. Charging stations are uncommon on the Parkway, so make note of where you can find them in nearby towns. Don’t expect to rely on cell service or GPS for on-the-go research, as it’s often quite spotty in the mountains. The Parkway service provides a list of nearby EV charging stations here.

Woman With Umbrella exiting former railroad tunnel now the  Blue Ridge Tunnel East Trailhead.
Park up and explore the Blue Ridge Tunnel Trail. Ed Lallo/Getty Images

Day 1: Crozet / The Ridge Region

Vibes: Small-town charm and big-time mountain views.

Do: Crozet is one of the closest towns to the Blue Ridge Parkway’s North Entrance and the ideal spot to begin your journey, where you can gas up and gather supplies before hitting the road. It’s about 10 minutes from the Parkway, and also midway between the cities of Charlottesville and Waynesboro. If you want to kick off your adventure with a unique hike, the Blue Ridge Tunnel Trail is a 4273-ft-long tunnel that runs beneath Afton Mountain.

Eat: Plan to get an early start, but fuel up for your drive with a lavender latte and breakfast bagel from Mudhouse in downtown Crozet. If you’re looking for dinner the evening before you leave, Crozet Pizza claims the honor of being named “best in the world” by National Geographic.

Stay: You’ll find mostly small inns and Airbnbs in this rustic region, or you could drive a bit farther into Charlottesville, Waynesboro or Staunton for more traditional hotels. Check into the cozy bed-and-breakfast-style Inn at Stinson Vineyards, which overlooks the vines on this scenic estate. Also nearby, the Afton Mountain Inn is a boutique hotel in a 19th-century farmhouse with five guestrooms, a pool and a hot tub – all just minutes from the Parkway.

The drive (120 miles, 3.5 hours): After entering the Parkway at Rockfish Gap, you’ll focus the first leg of your journey on the Ridge Region, which stretches from here to Roanoke. Just over five miles in, stop at the Humpback Rocks visitor center and take a quick walk around the mountain farm, which offers a taste of life in 1890s Appalachia. There are also three different hiking trails here, ranging from easy to strenuous.

Continue down the road, stopping at any overlooks or trails that strike your fancy – Greenstone Overlook (milepost 8), Yankee Horse Ridge (milepost 34), and Thunder Ridge (milepost 74) are easy, worthwhile stops. At milepost 89, break for lunch at the Peaks of Otter. The restaurant at the Peaks of Otter Lodge has views of Sharp Top Mountain, and a shuttle (or strenuous hike) will take you nearly to the summit to enjoy panoramic views of the area. Spend the afternoon exploring the Peaks of Otter area – Johnson Farm, the Fallingwater Cascades Trail and Harkening Hill are all great hikes. Then continue driving south toward Roanoke (milepost 120).

Hikers take in the view of the Appalachian Mountains from McAfee Knob on Catawba Mountain.
The viewpoints near Roanoke are spectacular. Joel Carillet/Getty Images

Day 2: Roanoke / The Plateau Region

Vibes: An outdoorsy mountain town, rolling farmland and Appalachian culture.

Do: Downtown Roanoke is one of the biggest cities near the Parkway, just a few minutes’ drive from multiple access points. Its vibrant historic district has all the hallmarks of a cool mid-sized Southern town: breweries, street art, museums and trendy boutiques. Enjoy a wander around the pedestrian-friendly downtown before resting up for a day of exploring the Parkway’s Plateau Region.

Eat: For dinner, River & Rail Restaurant will give you a taste of Southern cuisine sourced directly from the Roanoke and New River Valleys. Before hitting the road the next morning, swing by Bread Craft Bakery for a breakfast sandwich and/or sticky buns. Crystal Spring Grocery Co. has a nice selection of ready-made sandwiches, salads and other snacks that are ideal for taking on the road.

Stay: Roanoke has a typical range of hotel options, including chain hotels for budget-minded travelers. For something with a bit more character, check out The Liberty Trust, a luxury boutique hotel housed in a restored former bank building. The Tudor-style Hotel Roanoke is another historic property, though this one is quite a bit grander and a member of the Historic Hotels of America. Both are conveniently situated in the city center.

The drive (79 miles, 2.5 hours): Today, you’ll be driving through the Plateau Region of the Parkway, which stretches from Roanoke to Galax, just near the border of Virginia and North Carolina. Begin by entering the Parkway at milepost 120 and driving up Mill Mountain Spur Road, where you can see the largest man-made free-standing star in the world and take in views of the city below. Then head south, stopping at Cahas Knob (milepost 139) and Devil’s Backbone (milepost 143) for even more breathtaking views.

At milepost 176, stop at Mabry Mill and the Rocky Knob Visitor Center to enjoy your picnic lunch and then explore historical exhibits around the gristmill, sawmill and blacksmith shop. Keep driving to the Blue Ridge Music Center (milepost 213), a performing arts facility built to promote and preserve the historic music of the region. Exhibitions take a deep dive into American roots music, and you’ll often hear local musicians performing here. Exit at milepost 199 and wrap up the day in Carroll County, a region that’s known for mountain views and bluegrass.

Wide-angle view down Main Street in Galax, Virginia on a sunny, autumn day
Explore the charming antique stores in downtown Galax. Shutterstock

Day 3: Galax / The Highlands Region

Vibes: Mountain music, old-timey towns and waterfalls.

Do: Virginia’s heritage music trail, the Crooked Road, runs through this region – it’s a worthy detour for fans of bluegrass and American roots music. Galax has a small downtown with antique shops and restaurants.

Eat: Local beer, brick-oven pizzas, and wings are on the menu at Creek Bottom Brews in Galax. Briar Patch Marketplace & Cafe is a coffee shop and antique store downtown. The Gap Deli is conveniently situated for coffee, pastries and sandwiches as you head back on the road.

Stay: Galax, Hillsville and Fancy Gap have a handful of affordable chain hotels to choose from, including a Hampton Inn and Comfort Inn. Or go for the true mountain experience by booking a cabin in the woods with Fiddler’s Roost or New River Trail Cabins.

The drive (94 miles, 3 hours): Get ready for an increase in elevation today as you enter North Carolina and the Parkway’s dramatic Highlands Region. Begin your day at the Fancy Gap entrance at milepost 199, and head south toward Cumberland Knob (milepost 217). This is where construction of the Parkway began in 1935 as part of the New Deal initiative, intended to get Americans back to work following the Great Depression.

With open meadows and rolling hills, Doughton Park (mileposts 238-244) is a great place for spotting wildlife like deer, foxes and raccoons. You can also see historical demonstrations at Brinegar Cabin, explore an old homestead, and hike more than 30 miles of trails in this area. Nearby Northwest Trading Post (milepost 258) is a good stop for souvenirs and snacks. Pause for a picnic at E.B. Jeffress Park (milepost 272), and take a quick hike to see the Cascades waterfalls afterward.

Then, continue driving into the Grandfather Mountain corridor, stopping at Moses Cone Memorial Park, home of the Parkway Craft Center and an extensive network of trails. Stop for the evening in the village of Blowing Rock (milepost 293).

Linn Cove Viaduct along Blue Ridge Parkway.
The Linn Cove Viaduct is among the most photographed spots along the Blue Ridge Parkway. Devon Wolfhart/Getty Images

Day 4: Blowing Rock / The Highlands and Pisgah Regions

Vibes: High peaks, tunnels and a stunning gorge.

Do: Explore Blowing Rock’s storybook downtown, which is said to be the inspiration behind bestselling author Jan Karon’s books. The quaint Main Street corridor has plenty of boutiques, antique shops and cafes to choose from. Edgewood Cottage is a gallery specializing in local High Country artists, and the Blowing Rock Art & History Museum will give you a deeper understanding of the area. Five minutes from downtown, visit the Blowing Rock, a dramatic rock outcrop high above the valley with magnificent views.

Eat: On the edge of downtown Blowing Rock, the Speckled Trout explores the roots of Appalachian food and beverage culture. Bald Guy Brew and Camp Coffee Roasters are both solid stops for morning coffee and pastries. Blowing Rock Market is perfect for picking up road snacks and picnic supplies.

Stay: For an upscale stay, Chetola Resort is a luxurious mountain lodge, while Gideon Ridge Inn is a cozy B&B with an award-winning restaurant. If you prefer something more central, the Inn at Ragged Gardens is situated in an early-1900s manor house in the heart of the village.

The drive (89 miles, 3 hours): On today’s drive, continue through the Highlands Region and into the Pisgah Region, ending in Asheville. Around milepost 304, you’ll hit the iconic Linn Cove Viaduct, an engineering marvel that hugs the face of Grandfather Mountain – one of the most photographed spots on the Parkway. There’s a bridge museum and visitor center at the south end of the viaduct.

Consider exiting at milepost 305 to visit Grandfather Mountain, a privately operated attraction famed for its mile-high swinging bridge and wildlife habitats. Back on the Parkway, Linville Falls (milepost 316) has trails leading to the three-tiered waterfalls over a steep-walled gorge that’s been called the Grand Canyon of the Southern Appalachians. Stop by the visitor center and relax with a picnic nearby after your hike – but keep in mind that this is one of the most popular stops on the Parkway, and it can get crowded.

Moving on, you’ll notice the landscape becoming more rugged, and you’ll drive through an increasing number of tunnels. Enter the Pisgah Region around Crabtree Falls (milepost 340), which offers a strenuous but rewarding hike. At milepost 355, Mount Mitchell State Park boasts the highest peak in the Eastern US at 6684ft, with a road that leads nearly all the way to an observation deck at the summit.

There’s also a Natural History Museum, gift shop and restaurant on site. If you have any energy/daylight left, stop at Craggy Gardens (milepost 364) for postcard-perfect views that are especially stunning in early summer, when the rhododendrons are in bloom. End the day by driving into Asheville (milepost 382), the official headquarters of the Blue Ridge Parkway.

People enjoy the outside patio at 12 Bones Smokehouse barbecue restaurant in the River Arts District on May 11, 2018 in Asheville, North Carolina
12 Bones is said to be a favorite spot for the Obamas when they’re in the area. Getty Images

Day 5: Asheville / The Pisgah Region

Vibes: Beer, folk art and high elevations.

Do: You won’t struggle to find things to do in Asheville, like visiting the Biltmore Estate, microbreweries and plenty of art galleries. At the entrance to the Parkway, the Folk Art Center (milepost 382) is home to the Southern Highland Craft Guild. It features exhibits, demonstrations, and a shop devoted to promoting regional artists. The Asheville Botanical Garden and North Carolina Arboretum are also notable stops for nature lovers. Visit the River Arts District to browse the working studios of hundreds of artists.

Eat: If you’re after seasonally inspired, locally sourced cuisine, Asheville has more than a few acclaimed spots helmed by award-winning chefs – Rhubarb, The Market Place and Chai Pani are just a few. 12 Bones Smokehouse is reportedly the Obamas’ pick for barbecue when they’re in town. Or get a taste of the buzzy local beer scene with your meal at Sierra Nevada, Burial Beer Co. or Wicked Weed’s Funkatorium.

Stay: Asheville has no shortage of design-forward hotels both in and around the city. In the interest of staying on theme with our Parkway drive, head to Autocamp Asheville, which offers glamping in Airstreams, cabins and tents. Wrong Way River Lodge & Cabins is a collection of A-frames just off the French Broad River Greenway. And the Omni Grove Park Inn is a luxurious, sprawling resort near the Parkway that’s been welcoming mountaineers for over a century.

The drive (87 miles, 3 hours): For your final day of driving, head southwest from Asheville to Cherokee, toward the Great Smoky Mountains. At milepost 408, you’ll hit Mount Pisgah. Pause here to enjoy the spectacular views from the hiking trails and lunch at the Pisgah Inn, then keep driving through some of the highest elevations on the Parkway, consistently topping more than 5000ft.

Stop at Graveyard Fields (milepost 418) to take in the view from the overlook, or take the two-mile loop trail to Yellowstone Falls. Richland Balsam Overlook (milepost 431) boasts the highest elevation on the Parkway at 6053 feet. And finally, Waterrock Knob (milepost 451) has views over all the major Southern mountain ranges, including the Great Smokies, the Great Balsams and the Craggies. End your journey in Cherokee, North Carolina, where the Parkway gives way to Great Smoky Mountains National Park.