October 2024 – Page 2

Beaches

Serenity now: 5 days in Caribe Sur, Costa Rica

Caribe Sur, on the very southern tip of Costa Rica’s Caribbean coast might be my top mentally-I’m-here places. Its the exact location I pictured as a teenager when I dreamed about a life centered on surfing and sun and bicycles.

This area starts in Puerto Viejo de Talamanca (where the party is) and ends in Manzanillo. You’ll find a string of stunning, secluded beaches between these two endpoints, perfect for walking, hiking and simply wandering.

The culture here feels slightly different from the rest of Costa Rica – residents still live by a pura vida ethos and tico time definitely reigns supreme (my favorite thing ever), but there is a distinct Indigenous influence and a definite Afro-Caribbean culture. It’s not the easiest place to get to, but if you’re looking for adventure with a side of pura vida, this is the place.

And here’s the thing: you’ve got options. Spend the entire trip sitting on the deck of your bungalow staring into the rainforest and making friends with the monkeys, or dive into adventure headfirst.

Grab your flip-flops and a bathing suit and hop on this banana bike, ’cause we’re going to the jungle.

It might be a long travel day to get there, but picture yourself on this secluded beach © Hotel Aguas Claras courtesy image

Here’s the nitty gritty:

Where to fly into: You’ll want to book your flight into Puerto Limón. You can fly into San Jose, but the drive is long and kind of treacherous. Limón is only an hour away from Puerto Viejo de Talamanca.

How to get from the airport: Rent a car or book a shuttle. The cheapest option is a bus, which takes about two hours; a shuttle or car will take you 50 minutes. If you’re staying at Hotel Aguas Claras (see below), they’ll arrange transportation for you.

Getting around: Renting a car is nice, but you don’t really need wheels in this part of the world. Sights are spread out, but there are plenty of taxis and everyone rides bikes (which is by far the most fun way to get around).

Where to stay: Personally, I don’t care if I’m right on the beach or not – the jungle is just as wonderful as the sea. I like to book a vacation rental near Playa Chiquita or Punta Uva, both great places for a base, but if you want a hotel, book Hotel Aguas Claras. This gorgeous collection of beach bungalows is owned by long-time resident and artist Elizabeth Steinworth, and as she says, it’s a place for artists, doers and tinkerers. Like most things in this precious corner of the world, it was created with the environment in mind, so your surroundings feel as natural as if the earth had created it itself. And you’ll be enchanted with Playa Chiquita just steps from your door.

When to go: April is the prime nesting season for green turtles, and I promise it’s an experience you don’t want to miss. But if surfing is more your thing, you’ll catch the best swells December through March.

Settle in with a cocktail from Da Lime followed by dinner at Papaya and you’ll fall instantly in love with Hotel Aguas Claras © Hotel Aguas Claras courtesy images

Day 1

Arrive: I usually arrive in the afternoon and settle in, taking a deep breath and remembering I’m on tico time now. Sometimes I head straight to the beach for a swim and a short walk, but usually I just sit on the deck and take in the environment – the spider monkeys tend to swing through in the afternoon, and the howlers come a bit later. The first time I heard a howler monkey I was convinced I was about to be eaten by a mythological monster, but their roar is bigger than they are. They sometimes like throwing things down from above, so watch your head.

Happy Hour: DaLime Beach Club on the Hotel Aguas Clara’s property is the perfect spot for happy hour before they close at 5 – the cocktails are divine, but my favorite is the Hibiscus tonic (I’m a mocktail girly). They often play reggae tunes, great for settling into the laid-back vibes.

Dinner: When I’m hungry, I head to Papaya, the on-site restaurant at Hotel Aguas Claras. First, let’s talk aesthetics. Pops of pink and orange among the natural wood – did they take design tips from my dreams? Second, let’s talk food. It’s local, organic and it’s healthy, fitting right in with all the things I love about coming to Caribe Sur. The menu is ever-changing, and I’m never disappointed.

Take a long walk and see how many secluded beaches you can find, or just find one and be done with it © Boogich & Camp Photo / Getty Images

Day 2

Morning: I am a breakfast person, and since we don’t have much planned until the evening, I’m going to go to Gypsea Cafe in Playa Chiquita because the coffee is delicious and the benedicts are decadent.

Spend the day: I like to spend at least one day wandering the beaches from Playa Chiquita to Punta Uva. There are several isolated coves along the way, so I stop and relax when I find a spot I like. I’ll swim and lay in the sand under a palm tree before continuing on to the next one. I bring a water bottle and a quick-dry towel in my backpack, and I’m ready to explore.

Dinner: Since I brunched and skipped lunch, I enjoy an early dinner at Selvin’s, the top Caribbean spot in the area. Sometimes I order something with shrimp, but I just as often get the Chicken Caribeňo which I crave when I’m not in Caribe Sur.

After dark: Now for a trip highlight. Before you arrive, book a turtle-watching tour in Gandoca. The Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Gandoca-Manzanillo stretches from just south of Playa Chiquita in Manzanillo, all the way to the border with Panama, and it’s a haven for green sea turtles, as well as green macaws, jaguars and other incredible wildlife. The van picks you up in the early evening, and the drive is about 45 minutes around the refuge to the beach in Gandoca. (Side note: Gandoca is not at all touristy and worth a daytime tour.) But for now, here’s what you need to know.

Wear long sleeves, long pants, socks and shoes. You want to be totally covered to protect yourself from bugs. Dark clothes are preferred.
You aren’t allowed flashlights unless they have a red light. The guide will have one.
No cameras. This is an enjoy and remember experience.

There is a quiet, meditative feeling that washes over me when I watch a turtle lay her eggs – the turtle’s process is slow, and my breath slows to match her pace. It is incredibly intimate, not something you often feel with wildlife. The process can take up to three hours. There are no words to match the excitement you’ll feel on the drive back to the hotel.

Bike up to Playa Cocles for a surf lesson. You can rent boards and find an instructor on the beach © Everett Atlas / Getty Images

Day 3

Morning: After sleeping off my incredible late night its time to ride a banana bike up to Playa Cocles for the day. I go straight to Caribeans Chocolate and Coffee for, you guessed it, chocolate and coffee before finding a spot on the beach.

Spend the day: The waves here are just right for beginner surfers, and though I have been trying to surf for more years than I will mention here, I am still an absolute beginner. You can rent boards here and book lessons too. I’ll probably snag lunch at Sage, the beach restaurant at Playa Beachfront Hostel, a convenient stop because I can cruise up in bare feet and a bathing suit, order Caribbean rice and beans, and hang for the afternoon.

Dinner: After a shower and a quick change into an easy, breezy sundress, it’s time for dinner at El Refugio. I absolutely love diving into gorgeous plates of food under the stars in the garden of this steakhouse run by a husband-and-wife duo from Argentina.

Go for a hike in the refuge, and try to spot the protected green macaws © Hotel Aguas Claras courtesy images

Day 4

Morning: Since I’m usually staying at a home rental, I’ll grab a light breakfast; either fruit I picked up from the farm stand or quick rice and eggs. But if you’re at a hotel, just choose something light from the hotel restaurant before snagging a banana bike and heading out on an easy 4-mile ride to Manzanillo.

Spend the day: Diving for lobsters. You can pre-book with l0cal chef Andy Cook Campbell who owns the Cool & Calm Cafe in Manzanillo. He’ll load you in his boat, help you free dive for lobsters and then take you to a secluded beach to enjoy your catch. Other, more budget-friendly options include kayaking down the protected waters of the coast or my favorite choice, hiking in the Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Gandoca-Manzanillo – the easy coastal trail is about 3 and a half miles. With the rainforest on one side and the ocean on the other, the experience is immersive. Then, sneak in a quick swim at Tom’s Bay and head back to Manzanillo.

Afternoon: If I haven’t booked a lobster tour with Andy, I’ll grab a meal at his Cool & Calm Cafe, an open-air, rasta-themed restaurant right at the entrance to Manzanillo.

Later: If you’re a book-and-bed type like me,grab a light dinner at Arrecife , which is right on the beach in Punta Uva and enjoy one last evening peacefully soaking in the jungle sounds. But, if you’re up for beats on the beach, head to Puerto Viejo de Talamanca: Jonny’s Place and Hot Rocks are both wildly popular and ridiculously fun.

Have one more dip in the pool before heading out.

Day 5

Wake up. Enjoy one more plate of fresh fruit and an amazing coffee, and take one more dip in the sea. But now we say goodbye and head back to real life. Until next time, Caribe Sur.

Keep planning your trip to Costa Rica:

Enjoy the sea breeze at Costa Rica’s 8 best beaches
The kiddos will have a blast with these family-oriented activities
All the things you need to know before visiting the land of pura vida
Keep your wallet happy with these budget tips

Wildlife and Nature

The Quiet Parks movement – how to find peace on your travels

Contrary to what a certain popular horror franchise would have you believe, quiet places are about finding a blissful bubble in which to relax and unwind amidst the bustle of travel.

The joy of visiting new (and familiar!) places is the adventure, excitement and new experiences it brings, but every so often, you just need a peaceful place to take a deep, unhurried breath. You’ve probably heard about dark sky parks: remote locations with little if any light pollution, ideal destinations for stargazers.

But what about the auditory equivalent? Finding a place free of man-made noise is a challenge, even in places that seem like the middle of nowhere. One person has risen to the challenge of finding and protecting such places for all our sakes.

A young woman with a back pack listens to the forest around her; Quiet parks — Escape the constant noise and bustle of human activity in a quiet park © Hero Images / Getty Images

Noise pollution is bad news for everyone

A 2017 study by researchers at Colorado State University shows noise pollution – caused by things like nearby roads, air traffic, logging, mining and urban settlements – is pervasive across the United States, including in designated wilderness and protected areas. And if this is bad for us, it’s even worse for wildlife, who rely on the sounds of their environment for survival.

But there may be hope. A movement started by Gordon Hempton, author of the book “One Square Inch of Silence,” and his organization Quiet Parks International (QPI) seeks to preserve those few places left where it’s possible to experience relatively pure silence – just the sounds of nature. The hope is that travelers will seek them out, just as they seek out dark sky parks, to take a short break from the constant human presence.

Moss and ferns drip from trees as a road goes through a rainforest in Washington; Quiet parks — The Hoh Rain Forest in Washington State’s Olympic National Park was the inspiration behind the

The serenity of a Wilderness Quiet Park: only the sounds of nature

Most quiet parks are well off the beaten path – and even so, many are still threatened by intrusive noise pollution. For instance, the remote, mysterious, moss-laden Hoh Rain Forest on Washington state’s Olympic Peninsula, where Hempton initially set up his “One Square Inch” experiment, remained relatively free of noise pollution for years – until US Navy training flights recently started rumbling over a corner of the park. That change, and his inability to stop it, is what led Hempton to launch Quiet Parks International, hoping a global effort would have a greater impact.

How many Wilderness Quiet Parks are there?

The first official “wilderness quiet park” certified by QPI is along the Zabalo River in Ecuador. The area demonstrates “a healthy balance of bioacoustic activity with … noise-free intervals lasting several hours,” according to the organization’s website. Even that description tells you how hard it is to find a place completely undisturbed by the sounds of human activity.

QPI hopes quiet park status will eventually be enough of a tourism draw to benefit the local Indigenous Cofán tribe, which owns the land. This initial quiet park was then joined by two more US-based areas in 2022 and 2023, respectively – Glacier National Park in Montana and Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness in Minnesota.

A swollen river runs through a jungle landscape in Ecuador; Quiet parks — The world’s first designated Wilderness Quiet Park is along a river near the Cuyabeno Wildlife Reserve in Ecuador © Marc Guitard / Getty Images

Future, potential Wilderness Quiet Parks

QPI has also identified several other potential wilderness quiet parks around the world. Most of them are in designated natural areas with minimal artificial light sources (there’s a lot of overlap with dark sky parks).

They tend to be located far from established flight patterns and other major sources of traffic noise, in places where land use is unlikely to create frequent noise (eliminating most agricultural and mining areas, for example).

In the United States, these potential new quiet parks include Big Bend Ranch State Park in Texas, the American Prairie Reserve in Montana, and Haleakalā National Park in Hawaii.

In Europe, nominated quiet parks include Snowdonia National Park and the Brecon Beacons in Wales, Białowiezå Forest in Poland and multiple places in between.

There are dozens of other potential sites around the world, including the Skeleton Coast of Namibia, Garajonay National Park in the Canary Islands, Manu National Park in Peru and the aptly named Silent Valley National Park in Kerala, India.

All of these could potentially become designated quiet parks if QPI’s site visits show that they meet the proper criteria. The project is run by volunteers and relies on donations – part of the certification process will be to establish just how quiet is quiet enough.

Tantolunden park on Södermalm, in Stockholm, Sweden — Stockholm has taken the lead in identifying quiet urban spaces for its residents and visitors © SCC / Getty Images

Urban Quiet Parks: an oasis in the middle of a city

Your best chance of escaping man-made noise is to head out into the wilderness. But if all goes as planned, you won’t have to go that far to get a taste of natural silence. QPI has been working to establish and certify urban quiet parks – places near or within major cities that have been set aside as quiet, noise-pollution-free spaces.

As of 2024, there are 10 urban quiet parks in the world, spanning from Hampstead Heath in London, England to Yangmingshan National Park in Taipei, Taiwan.

A pilot program in Stockholm, Sweden, has identified 65 “calm places” within the city and its surroundings, as well as 22 walks signposted with the “quiet trails” icon; the routes are described in brochures visitors can find in tourist offices or online. All the walks are easily reachable by metro, bus, bicycle or on foot from the city center. Similar experiments are taking place in Taiwan, New York City and Portland, Oregon.

There are also efforts to create quiet communities, quiet marine trails and hiking trails, and even quiet hotels. All of this indicates that, gradually, we’re beginning to recognize the value of a little peace and quiet in a busy world.

Adventure Travel

The 8 best road trips in Utah

Picture Utah and images of red-rock arches and deep canyons will spring to mind. However, the Beehive State adds up to much more than its landmark national parks. Taking a road trip across this ruggedly handsome US state will immerse you in the heart of America, taking in stunning landscapes, famous national parks, friendly small towns and roads that were made for driving.

Since you’ll be passing through one of America’s most beautiful states, you can expect an abundance of jaw-dropping views. There are plenty of places to visit and plenty to do wherever you park up. Thankfully, many of the best vistas can be accessed via paved highways and scenic byways with plentiful roadside viewpoints, with Salt Lake City as a convenient hub.

While most of Utah’s best road trips are accessible in a conventional car, some more rugged routes require an all-wheel-drive crossover or a high-clearance 4×4 vehicle. To really get to know this state, fuel up, roll down the windows and hit the road – here are the best road trips in Utah.

Expect scenic views aplenty on Byway 12, cutting through the valley of the Escalante River. Shutterstock

1. Scenic Byway 12

Best for tight itineraries

Panguitch–Torrey; 122 miles; one day

If you take only one road trip in Utah, make it this one. Along this route, linking the towns of Panguitch and Torrey in the national park-filled south of the state, you can experience much of what Utah is famous for in a single afternoon.

Highlights include red-rock tunnels, desert landscapes, nearly two million acres of pinyon pine woodland in Dixie National Forest, a summit overlook from 9000ft, and access to four of Utah’s greatest natural treasures: Zion National Park, Bryce National Park, Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, and Capitol Reef National Park.

With plenty of shops and stops along the way, you can easily make a day of it – or even a couple weeks of it, if you stop off to thoroughly explore the parks.

Planning Tip: Most road-trippers begin the route at Panguitch, just north of Bryce Canyon. The nearest air hub is Cedar City Airport, served by Delta Connections flights from Salt Lake City, with car hire firms at the terminal.

2. Dinosaur Diamond Prehistoric Hwy

Best for dinosaur fans

Starting and ending in Vernal; 512 miles; 1–3 days

Utah is covered by deserts today, but millions of years ago, this was part of a coastal floodplain rich in flora and fauna. Evidence of this abundance of life comes in the form of dino footprints and fossils buried in the state’s desert cliffs and rocky outcrops – things visitors can easily seek out today.

For a trip back to prehistory, there’s no better route than Dinosaur Diamond Prehistoric Hwy. Starting and ending in the beautiful town of Vernal, this epic route travels in a diamond shape through Utah and parts of Colorado, following I-70, US 6, US 40, and US 191, among other roads.

The highlight is the legendary fossil quarry at Dinosaur National Monument – where dozens of dinosaur skeletons lie in situ – but the route also takes in Flaming Gorge, Jones Hole, Fantasy Canyon, and Canyonlands and Arches National Parks near Moab.

Planning Tip: It’s best to come in spring or autumn to explore the dinosaur sites along the route, as temperatures soar in summer. Vernal is around 175 miles east of Salt Lake City – an easy drive along US 40 and US 191.

Managed by the Navajo Nation, Monument Valley is perhaps America's most famous movie backdrop. Putt Sakdhnagool/500px — Managed by the Navajo Nation, Monument Valley is perhaps America’s most famous movie backdrop. Putt Sakdhnagool/500px

3. Monument Valley Hwy 163

Best for cinematic views

Mexican Hat–Monument Valley; 45 miles; half a day

Dozens of movies, including one Academy Award winner, have been shot in Monument Valley in the far south of Utah. With arguably the greatest backdrop in American movie history, this road trip will leave you feeling like a character in Stagecoach or The Searchers.

For the most impressive views, travel southwest from Mexican Hat, taking pictures of the sombrero-shaped rock and “Forrest Gump Point,” then drop into Monument Valley itself for even more surreal photography. Spilling across the state boundary into Arizona, this dramatic collection of towering sandstone buttes is administered by the Navajo Nation.

While you can easily complete the route in under two hours, you’ll want to allow extra time for side trips and scenic detours along connecting byways such as Hwy 276.

Planning Tip: To immerse yourself in movie lore, visit John Ford’s Point near The View Hotel – used as a filming location in The Searchers and several other John Ford westerns.

4. Mirror Lake Scenic Hwy

Best for an adventure from Salt Lake City

Kamas–Wyoming border; 42 miles; half a day
Starting an hour from Salt Lake City, the Mirror Lake Hwy is one of the most popular mountain driving routes in the state. Heading east from Kamas, about 45 miles east of Salt Lake, the paved highway takes you through the High Uinta Wilderness, one of the state’s best-kept secrets.

Highlights of this easy adventure include Upper Provo Falls, photogenic Mirror Lake, Bald Mountain Pass and the Christmas Meadows trailhead, as well as numerous overlooks, picnic areas and campsites along the way. It’s also an ideal way to experience the state’s fall foliage.

Planning Tip: This is a great route for independent adventurers – camping is permitted in many parts of the High Uinta Wilderness, but be sure to follow Forest Service rules.

You can travel to Arches National Park and four other landmark Utah sites on one scenic drive. Andrew Repp/Shutterstock

5. Utah’s “Mighty 5”

Best for bucket-list landscapes

Arches National Park–Zion National Park; 1040 miles; 10 days
Few places in the country – if not the world – offer such a high concentration of national parks and national monuments as Southern Utah. And this ultimate route will get you to them all – and then some! To explore, give yourself at least a week to 10 days.

Starting in Moab at Arches National Park, the route works its way east through Canyonlands, Capitol Reef, Bryce and Zion. As there’s no single highway linking the parks, it makes sense to tack on other parks and reserves along the way, such as Monument Valley, Goblin Valley State Park and Kodachrome Basin State Park. However you make the trip, you can look forward to admiring the full scope of Utah’s natural wonders.

Planning Tip: Southern Utah’s big-name national parks can be very busy from March to October. Come just outside this window in February or November and you’ll have a quieter experience; just bring gear for chilly mornings, evenings and nights.

6. Potash to White Rim Rd

Best for dirt-road thrills

Moab–Island in the Sky Visitor Center; 32 miles; half a day

A thrilling dirt road trip from Moab, this is one for adventurers. Check your vehicle’s roadworthiness, then drive north from Moab on Hwy 191, turning south on Hwy 279 to snake around the Colorado River – perhaps pausing to hike at Corona Arch or visit nearby rock-climbing cliffs and ancient petroglyph sites.

Next, turn west onto Potash Rd to make your way through Dead Horse Point and into Canyonlands National Park before finally ascending the towering switchbacks of the Shafer Trail to finish up at the Island in the Sky Visitor’s Center. After admiring the views, head back the way you came to return to Moab.

Planning Tip: Although many conventional cars will be capable of handling this dirt drive, a 4×4 or an all-wheel-drive vehicle with higher-than-normal clearance will give you peace of mind when crossing rougher sections of the route.

Be sure to drive with care as you navigate Moki Dugway’s switchback curves. Gordon Montgomery/ Shutterstock

7. Moki Dugway

Best for exceptional views

Mexican Hat–Natural Bridges National Monument; 34 miles; half a day

This might be one of America’s most famed white-knuckle car rides, but the views are life-affirming. With hairpin turns and an elevation gain of over 1000ft, this graded dirt road is best driven north from Mexican Hat (on the north side of Monument Valley) toward Natural Bridges National Monument.

You can look forward to truly exceptional vistas. While at the top, take a detour west to see stunning Muley Point, which overlooks the deep canyons of the San Juan River. Other highlights include the overlook above the Valley of the Gods, with its stunning buttes and stone pinnacles. If you don’t plan on exploring further than Natural Bridges, this is also a wonderful out-and-back drive from the Monument Valley area by car.

Planning Tip: The Moki Dugway can be safely driven in a conventional car, but you may feel more comfortable in an all-wheel-drive vehicle or 4×4 if weather conditions are poor.

As you drive through Capitol Reef National Park, the Temple of the Sun and other rock formations will inspire pure awe. Shutterstock

8. Cathedral Valley Scenic Backway

Best for seclusion

Cathedral Road–Hartnet Road; 72 miles (with detours); half a day

To see the half of Capitol Reef National Park that few people ever visit – and we promise it’s the better half! – you’ll need a 4×4 vehicle with high clearance. The rewards for leaving the asphalt are significant. Expect castle-like sandstone formations, panoramic desert views and rarely another person in sight.

The region’s unique sandstone formations were formed by millions of years of erosion, leaving behind sculpted monoliths striated with the scars of eons of desert winds. For the full experience, camp out under starry skies blissfully free of light pollution. The Earthtrekkers website has a useful route description.

Planning Tip: If you decide to stay in Capitol Reef National Park, you can reserve a space at the Fruita Campground (from March to October) or camp at the park’s two free primitive campgrounds, where you’ll need to bring everything you need, including food and water.

Beaches

Copy My Trip: A long weekend in Nantucket, Massachusetts

Lonely Planet’s Brekke Fletcher recently traveled to Nantucket, Massachusetts for a long weekend with her niece. Here, she shares some tips and insights for anyone planning a visit to this east coast island escape.

Sun. Surf. Seafood. Seafaring. These were all on the menu for a recent weekend jaunt to Nantucket, an island off the coast of Massachusetts, lauded for its whaling history, architecture, beaches and preppy, summery vibe. What was not on the docket was near-constant drizzle, icy cold wind and chilly temperatures. But things don’t always go the way you hoped they would.

My niece Ashley flew in from California to join me on this wee holiday (nonstop flights from Boston, New York City and Washington, DC, as well as a ferry from Woods Hole, Massachusetts), and we messaged in advance regarding the doom-and-gloom forecast. We agreed not to let the weather dampen our spirits – we would double up on sweaters, cover up with waterproof jackets and enjoy our planned itinerary, just without the sunscreen and swimsuits.

Read more: Don’t let bad weather ruin your vacation

Our adorable cottage was equipped with a full kitchen, outdoor seating and complimentary bicycles (with helmets) © Brekke Fletcher / Lonely Planet

Where did you stay? What was the vibe?

The airy, nautical design of our weekend home, the newly refurbished Cottages at the Boat Basin, immediately put us in vacation mode. The cottage we stayed in, Pawana, was located nearer the street, so it wasn’t exactly private (close those shades when you’re getting dressed), but the comforts were ample.

The bathroom was gleaming white with a huge shower, a strong heater and L’Occitane bath products. Also the place was appointed with white fluffy towels, robes and slippers, and a seriously comfortable bed. As we were special guests, they pre-stocked our kitchen with morning essentials like eggs, sliced sourdough from Born & Bread Nantucket, granola from Something Natural, along with yogurt, milk and coffee (thank you, Aoife!).

Read more: The best places to go on a summer vacation in the USA

The Lemon Press is a bustling spot for coffee and breakfast © Brekke Fletcher / Lonely Planet

What was the first thing you did?

Our first morning, we made coffee and had the tiniest bite to eat in our snuggly robes. (We needed to keep it light since we had a big lunch scheduled at TOPPER’S at The Wauwinet, which, like the Cottages, is part of family-owned White Elephant Resorts.) Since the cottages are so centrally located, all of downtown’s landmarks, shops and restaurants are only a short walk away.

We made our way along the brick-lined sidewalks to Lemon Press (where we would have a proper breakfast on Saturday) for cappuccinos. This was a chilly Friday around 11am, and let me tell you, the place was jammed. I couldn’t imagine how insanely crowded it must be on a warm summer day.

Also worth visiting if you’re wandering around downtown is the Whaling Museum, Hospital Thrift Shop, current vintage, Erica Wilson and the Quidley & Company art gallery.

Delicious oysters and paté at TOPPER’S at the Wauwinet; baccala, boquerones and specialty cocktails at chic Via Mare; donuts for days at darling Downeyflake © Brekke Fletcher / Lonely Planet

Any stand-out dining experiences?

The oysters we had at TOPPER’S during lunch were some of the best I’ve ever tasted, perhaps because they were harvested mere steps from our table. The setting inside is both grand and intimate, while the empty outdoor tables were just calling for the weather to warm up.

Two words together I’d never thought I’d love? Fish and pâté. But I found the smoked bluefish pâté to be a perfectly-balanced taste sensation, served with curry lavash crackers, crudité and pickled onions (can we please put this on everything?).

And of course the culinary team at this perfectly-situated New England beach resort makes an exemplary lobster roll served on a lightly toasted brioche. We couldn’t help but wonder: how exactly did they manage that perfect degree of crispness on the cut side of the roll? We may never know.

We simply adored the cocktails at Via Mare at the Greydon House (located downtown in an old sea captain’s home). They were perfectly-executed, including a superb Barrel Aged Boulevardier and a refreshing Last Night I Dreamt of San Pedro with Aperol, prosecco and ginger. The dining room is elegantly sumptuous, and the menu is eclectic and playful. We favored and savored the cicchetti (snacks), including baccala, boquerones and a zippy hot chicken Milanese.

Do not miss out on breakfast at local favorite The Downyflake, beloved for its fresh doughnuts and no-nonsense diner fare – their corned beef hash deserves its own #cornedbeefhashtag.

Read more: How to experience the best of Boston

Scenes from the Bluff Walk in Sconset on the eastern shore of Nantucket © Brekke Fletcher / Lonely Planet

What was your favorite experience?

The Bluff Walk in Sconset is an absolute must. Located on the east side of the island facing the Atlantic, this popular footpath is a lookie-loo’s paradise, cutting behind some very large, very beautiful shingle style beach houses, some of which date from the 1800s.

Though our Saturday midday walk was pretty solitary, I was told repeatedly how clogged up this narrow trail would get at the height of summer beach rush hour. The advice is to go in the morning or an hour before sunset to avoid the throngs, but no guarantees.

The path is narrow – this is single-file walking. As you walk by massive homes on one side, you’ll pass a series of precarious and steep wooden staircases on the other that lead down to the waterfront. I cannot imagine forgetting your sunscreen and having to go up and down those steps multiple times. I also don’t know how I’d feel about a bunch of strangers tromping past my multi-million dollar view all summer, but I certainly do not need to worry about that.

The path switches back to Baxter Road, and then leads you to a drive dotted with smaller, more intimate historic homes that invite you to imagine nineteenth-century life here on the coast.

Read more: These are the best beaches in the USA

Cisco Brewers in Nantucket specializes in craft beers and cocktails made with local spirits; Ashley delights in a flight © Brekke Fletcher / Lonely Planet

Did you get your party on at all?

If a daytime party counts, we had the most raucous time at Cisco Brewers. What a blast! It’s like a mini-festival on the weekends, with local food trucks (in one case, a food skiff overflowing with shellfish on ice), three bars, live music, picnic tables, fire pits and corn hole. If I was curious as to where everyone was hanging out on this chilly weekend, I wasn’t anymore.

The music was right on target for this gal, a mix of classic and rock yacht, greatest hits of the 1970s, 80s and 90s. I think I saw every single person singing along to one song or another. The crowd was a mix of twenty and thirty somethings, locals and regulars and tourists, and the vibe was pure joy.

This place is a very, very good time. And I don’t just mean Cisco’s.

Brekke Fletcher traveled to Nantucket on the invitation of White Elephant Resorts. Lonely Planet does not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage.

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