June 2024 – healthyng

Adventure Travel

These 7 hikes reveal Bora Bora beyond the beaches

Most visitors head to Bora Bora for a blissful island vacation that centers around relaxing in an overwater bungalow on the sparkling lagoon. So you may be surprised to learn that it’s possible to work up a sweat with a vigorous hike on this gem of French Polynesia.

Given its small size and mountainous, jungle-covered interior, you really don’t have to venture far to feel like you’ve left civilization behind on Bora Bora. The payoff to any sweaty trek? Your astonishment at just how many different shades of blue you can see from your viewpoint as you gaze out on one of the world’s most beautiful lagoons.

Here are seven ways to make it happen.

1. Faanui Cannons

Best short hike
Less than 300m (0.25 mile), 10 minutes, moderate

During WWII, the USA chose Bora Bora as a strategic military supply base – and, as on many South Pacific islands, decided not to take the big stuff home. At four locations in Bora Bora, eight giant cannons were installed high on the hills, and they remain there today. Some are difficult to find, but they’re waiting to be discovered. If you are willing to explore a bit, that is.

Anyone who finds the Faanui Cannons will enjoy spectacular views of Bora Bora’s iconic lagoon as a reward. Once you leave the sealed circle island road, it will take around 10 minutes of uphill walking; views of the motu (little islands) in the lagoon serve as a welcome distraction from your burning calves. As will the satisfaction of actually finding the cannons (even if one of the barrels has gone missing).

Trailheads are notoriously hard to find in Bora Bora due to a lack of signage. Yet the Faanui Cannons can be found on Google Maps, near Tereia Point in the northwest of the main island. Heading clockwise on the circle island road, make your way to the Pearl Beach Resort ferry departure (lagoon side of the road) a few kilometers past Faanui. Once you spot the sign to the ferry, the track to the cannon site is about 30m (98ft) further up the road on the right.

An old war cannon faces out over a bay and a mountain beyond on a tropical island — It can be a scramble to reach some of the decommissioned WWII-era cannons on Bora Bora – but the views are worth the effort. Sven Kiesser/Shutterstock

2. Point Fitiuu Cannons

Best hike for picnicking with a view
Around 1.2km (¾ mile) round trip, easy

Hikers seeking the well preserved Point Fitiuu Cannons – in Anau, on the eastern side of the main island – will be treated to stunning views of both Mt Otemanu and that magnificent lagoon (again!). Partway along this walk, an interestingly shaped geological feature juts dramatically out of the ground: it’s commonly known as Hiro’s Finger. (Some describe it using another part of the male anatomy.)

Take a picnic and make a morning or afternoon out of it, making use of the simple benches at the cannons. While snacking, you’ll notice that one of the guns faces the Four Seasons Resort and the other faces Mt Otemanu.

The trailhead can be a little tricky to find. The easiest way is to head toward Point Fitiuu on the main circle island road, where you’ll soon find yourself heading up a small hill as you near it on Google Maps. At the sharp bend in the road, views of Mt Otemanu will come into sight, and you’ll see a track leading out onto the peninsula. The trail starts behind a cement building on private land. If the owners are about, you’ll need to ask their permission to cross their land.

3. Valley of the Kings

Best hike for Polynesian history
Around 3 hours, easy to moderate

It’s said that the giant banyan tree you’ll spot on this hike was the inspiration for the “Tree of Souls” in the blockbuster Avatar movie. Whether or not that’s true, there’s no doubt the tree has great cultural significance, since it’s said to serve as the final resting place of Bora Bora’s ancient kings.

The Valley of the Kings hike is best taken with a guide – not just because hikes on Bora Bora are rarely signed, but because this particular trail passes by relics of the island’s early history. Hikers can explore remnants of ancient villages and marae (Polynesian temples), which only expert guides will be able to point out.

You can also enjoy opportunities to eat the island’s bounty straight from the tree – and, of course, take in those iconic views of the turquoise-blue lagoon.

A close-up shot of misty clouds hugging rocky, spiky peaks of a mountain on a tropical island — While you can’t summit the spiky peaks of Mt Otemanu, you’ll enjoy major bragging rights for getting close. Cedric Serni/Shutterstock

4. Mt Otemanu

Best hike for bragging rights
Around 6 hours round trip, difficult

Can you hike Mt Otemanu? As soon as hikers eye this craggy peak, the question immediately occurs. As the highest feature on Bora Bora, Otemanu dominates the landscape – and given its prominence on both travel brochures and the feeds of nearly every social media influencer who visits, it’s possibly one of the most recognized geological features in all of French Polynesia. Who wouldn’t want to brag about conquering it?

Hikers can’t physically get to the very top of the mountain’s 727m (2385ft) summit, as the towering twin peaks are both crumbly and vertical. Yet it’s still a hard slog just to get to the “shoulders” of the mountain, with a few sections requiring the ability to heave yourself up via strategically placed ropes.

The cave on Mt Otemanu’s northeastern side is not to be missed. Said to be a final resting place for royalty in the distant past, the cave offers views that are nothing short of breathtaking. Hikers can see across the brilliant blue see all the way to the islands of Tahaʻa and Raʻiatea.

Although it’s possible to do this hike without a guide, I don’t recommend this, since independent trekkers can (and do) get lost and even injured due to the difficult terrain and lack of signage.

5. Farepiti Cannons

Best hike for an intense start and smooth finish
Approx 2.4km (1.5 miles) round trip, 20min one way, easy to moderate

Perched on the mountainside above Point Pahua on the western point of the island, these cannons also boast superb views. One cannon is positioned toward the main town of Vaitape and Teavanui Pass, while the other other looks out over the expanse of the lagoon toward Pearl Beach Resort.

The initial section will give your calves a workout and make you sweat in the tropical humidity – but things ease up about 450m (1476ft) in, when you reach a plateau with nice views over to Motu Ahuna in the lagoon. From here, its an easier hike to the cannons.

The track can be found by heading clockwise around the island on the main road. Around 350m (1148ft) past the cargo-vessel quay in Farepiti, you’ll see a dirt road to the cannons snaking up the hill to your right. Along the way, you’ll hear the drone of 4x4s and quad bikes, which rumble up a narrow track behind you. While this can be noisy, the sound of these vehicles makes it hard to get lost.

A double-peaked mountain is visible in the distance behind bright blue waters fringed with dense palms — If you can believe it, the views are even better looking down from Mt Pahia. Danita Delimont/Shutterstock

6. Mt Pahia

Best hike for fabulous views
Around 6–8 hours round trip, difficult

Mt Pahia is Mt Otemanu’s shorter sibling, topping out at 658m (2159ft). On the ascent, fabulous panoramic views will open up not only across Bora Bora, but well out to the Pacific Ocean, too. Like Otemanu, Pahia is a challenge – yet on this mountain, you can actually reach the peak. Due to the dangerous hiking conditions, which involve climbing, ropes and forging through an unmaintained track, I wouldn’t tackle this hike without a guide.

The track can be found near Hine Pearls, just south of the pretty Protestant church with the red spire in Vaitape. As ever, it’s best to ask around when you get there as nothing is signposted.

7. Bora Bora Loop

Best hike for multiday discovery
20 mile (32km), easy to moderate

For those who have a few days to spare and are comfortable with the concept of multiday hiking, this 32km (20-mile) loop is simply dreamy. Following the coastal road around the entirety of the main island, the Bora Bora Loop is the only hike that’s all-weather accessible, as the road is paved and not too mountainous.

The highlight of this hike is, well…everything: every single stunning stretch of coastline, view of the lagoon, village and fabulous restaurant. The best part? You get to choose where you stay each night and how far you walk each day.

Top tips for hiking in Bora Bora

Hire a guide when tackling Bora Bora’s interior tracks. This is due to the lack of signage, overgrown trails and the mountainous terrain.
Never hike the off-road tracks during or after rain. The trail will be too slippery and downright dangerous.
Many tours only operate during the dry season, from May to October.
The hikes to Mts Otemanu and Pahia are not for the faint-hearted. You will need to have a reasonable level of fitness and know your body’s limits. Don’t attempt the hikes if you can’t deal with heights or suffer from vertigo.

Wildlife and Nature

10 beautiful destinations to see fall colors in 2024

When the lazy days of summer are over, and the air starts to have a distinct chill, there’s no need to be downhearted. Fall is the most spectacular season, the last hurrah before the bitter winds of winter take hold.

Here are the most beautiful places to witness glorious fall colors all around the world.

Maple tree with red leaves during autumn at Shinnyo-do Temple in Nara, Japan — Nara’s historic buildings are surrounded by beautiful foliage in the fall months. John Su/Getty Images

1. Nara, Japan

Fall in Japan is every bit as stunning as the short-lived cherry blossom season in spring. Kouyou (fall leaves) can be seen across the country, starting in the northern island of Hokkaidō and spreading quickly south from the end of September. The ancient capital of Nara, a short train ride from Kyoto, makes a wonderful viewing spot. Its vast park is awash with color, with sensational views of red, gold and yellow leaves along the paths up to Tamukeyama shrine in its northeast corner.

A view of the River Wye in the Forest of Dean, England — The Forest of Dean, near England’s border with Wales, has a mystical atmosphere. Getty Images

2. Forest of Dean, England

This ancient woodland in Gloucestershire was once used as a royal hunting ground, and its trees were also used to make Tudor warships. Today, it’s the perfect spot for the more prosaic sport of leaf peeping. The mix of oak, beech and sweet chestnut provides a rusty riot of yellow and gold. The Forest of Dean can be easily covered on foot or bicycle. Just keep an eye out for the wild boar that have called this place home since 2006. Alternatively, head for one of England’s best national reserves or city parks for more autumn color.

New England is known for its fall colors, and New Hampshire might have the best of all. Anastasia Tveretinova/Shutterstock

3. White Mountains, New Hampshire, USA

New England is synonymous with fall, and picking one must-see spot isn’t easy. But New Hampshire’s White Mountains are surely one of the best places to see autumn at its most colorful – not just in New England but the world. Hike through the hills at the start of October, and you’ll be treated to brilliant red maple leaves, or drive to Silver Cascade Falls in Carroll County to see the trees glow next to the 250-foot waterfall.

The vineyards of Sancerre during autumn in the Loire Valley, France. — The vineyards of France’s Loire Valley turn gold in the fall. Julian Elliott Photography/Getty Images

4. Loire Valley, France

With the leaves on the vines turning and the summer hordes heading home, there’s not a better time than fall to visit France’s Loire Valley. The rolling vineyards look radiant as they shed the greens of warmer months for the yellows, browns and burnt oranges of autumn. It’s also harvest time, so you can see the grapes being picked in the fields before retiring to a cozy spot to take in the view with a glass of the local tipple.

Yellow autumn trees cover a mountainside in Bishop Creek Canyon, California — California is not as well known as the eastern US states for fall colors, but that’s beginning to change. Ron and Patty Thomas/Getty Images

5. Bishop Creek Canyon, California

Just because the northeastern USA gets amazing fall colors doesn’t mean you should discount the west coast. California’s inland forests offer a great alternative, with the reds and yellows of fall holding on longer in the Golden State thanks to its hugely varied elevation. Bishop Creek Canyon is one of a number of great viewing points. Nestled in the Sierra Nevada Mountains, the golden leaves here look amazing with the rocky hills as a backdrop.

A Scottish loch near Pitlochry is framed by rolling farmland and hills covered in a mixture of green and autumn-colored leaves — The deciduous trees in Scotland are stunning when the weather starts to cool. David Henderson/Getty Images

6. Pitlochry, Scotland

Scotland’s pine forests might not change color, but its deciduous trees offer some of the finest fall hues in Europe. Walk out of town to the dam and fish ladder, which separates the Tummel River and Loch Faskally, to get the perfect view of waterside trees as they shed their leaves. Each October, Pitlochry also plays host to the Enchanted Forest, a nightly event that sees the trees lit up to soaring music in the woods just outside town.

The mountain village of San Giorgio in northern Italy is seen from above as it is awash in fall colors — See fall colors from the mountain village of San Giorgio in northern Italy. Francesco Bergamaschi/Getty Images

7. Lombardy, Italy

Still mild even as the leaves fall, Lombardy in northern Italy is an ideal place to see mainland Europe burst into color. The native Lombardy poplars, which can be seen across the landscape, turn a bright yellow before their leaves fall to the floor. If you can’t make it to the countryside, Milan’s public gardens offer a great city view of autumn.

Bridges span islands in a small lake as brilliant yellow trees drop leaves all over the ground at Alfred Nicholas Memorial Gardens in Australia's Dandenong Ranges — The Alfred Nicholas Memorial Gardens in Australia’s Dandenong Ranges. Tsvi Braverman/Getty Images

8. Dandenong Ranges, Australia

Aussie autumn doesn’t kick off in earnest until March (yes, we’re talking springtime for the northern hemisphere). While you wouldn’t usually associate the land of beaches, surfing and summer heat with glorious fall color, the Dandenong Ranges near Melbourne don’t disappoint. As well as being a national park of breathtaking beauty, the area is also dotted with manicured gardens. The Alfred Nicholas Memorial Gardens are definitely worth a visit when the lawns are carpeted with fallen leaves and the trees are aglow.

Aerial image of train and rail line Agawa Canyon, Ontario, Canada — Fall foliage trips in Agawa Canyon, Ontario. Russ Heinl/Shutterstock

9. Agawa Canyon, Canada

Hop on board the Agawa Canyon Tour Train this autumn, and you’ll be treated to some of the most beautiful fall foliage on the planet. The ride sets off from Sault Ste Marie, covering 114 miles of unspoiled country that looks its best as the days begin to close in. These views inspired Tom Thomson and the Group of Seven, Canada’s most prominent landscape artists, throughout the early 20th century. You’ll need to be quick: the leaves peak for a brief period around the end of September and beginning of October.

Young hiker in colorful fantastic mountain landscape at gold autumn near Popradske Pleso lake in High Tatras — Hiking near Popradské Pleso in the High Tatras. Getty Images

10. Tatra Mountains, Slovakia

Together with the national park of the same name in Poland, Slovakia’s High Tatra National Park is a UNESCO-protected biosphere reserve. Here, 740 sq km of beech and spruce forests turn radiant colors in autumn, while deep-blue glacier lakes and alpine meadows are spangled with wildflowers. Outdoors enthusiasts may want to tackle one of the many hiking trails, spotting native fauna like marmots and chamois (mountain goat-antelopes) while soaking up the fall vibe. Alternatively, you unwind in the lake and spa getaway, Štrbské Pleso, after a day of leaf-peeping in the mountains.

Adventure Travel

A ski guide to Valais: finding your slope in southern Switzerland

Switzerland might appear small on paper, but it’s a hell of a lot bigger when you look up. Welcome to one of Europe’s most mountainous countries, where the Alps ripple across 60% of its territory. With a whole lot of vertical, it’s all about peak performance here – the Swiss are practically born on skis and four-year-olds will often whizz rings around you on the slopes. And the rush is never greater than where the glacier-capped Alps are at their highest: Valais, a canton tucked away in the south of Switzerland and straddling the Italian border.

When the first flakes fall in winter, the land of mighty Matterhorn and the 4634m Dufourspitze, Switzerland’s highest peak, has skiers itching to hurtle down the pistes or make fresh tracks in the backcountry. And whether you’re a black-run thrill seeker, a lover of cruisy blues with big views, or an absolute beginner, there’s a run with your name on it. Read on for our seven absolute faves.

Zermatt

Best for riveting Matterhorn views and skiing into Italy

Let’s begin with the big one… You never forget the first time you clap eyes on 4478m Matterhorn: that perfect pyramid-shaped peak that says Switzerland (and Toblerone) like no other. Most likely it will be a fleeting glimpse from the little red train that chugs from Visp to Zermatt. Once you arrive, there are distractingly lovely vistas from the slopes, which are the country’s highest, topped off by the 3883m Matterhorn Glacier Paradise cable car station, where you can swoon over views of 14 glaciers and 38 mountain peaks over 4000m.

Car-free Zermatt makes a terrific base for hitting the pistes, which amount to 360km when coupled with over-the-mountain Cervinia in Italy (much easier to reach since the 2023 launch of the Matterhorn Alpine Crossing). The cruisy slopes around Rothorn, Stockhorn and Klein Matterhorn suit confident intermediates, while plenty of great off-piste areas will please powder hounds (though getting a guide is wise). Likewise, there is fine skiing for beginners and families at Wolli Park Sunnegga, and a snowpark with rails, boxes, jumps and kickers for boarders. A bonus for families is that kids under nine ski free.

Planning tip: One of the world’s most scenic train rides, the Glacier Express makes the 290km, eight-hour journey between Zermatt and St Moritz twice daily from mid-December to early May.

Arolla

Best for quiet, uncrowded slopes and heavenly off-piste

Huddled away in the deeply traditional Val d’Hérens, and with pop-up views of glacier-encrusted 4000m peaks, the sleepy hamlet of Arolla has a backdrop out of all proportion with its size (population 200). Sitting at a giddy 1998m, the endearingly Alpine village has an impeccable snow record, ravishing scenery and 47km of downhill slopes to whoosh down – mostly blues and reds geared toward beginners and intermediates respectively. By Swiss standards, it’s reasonably inexpensive, too.

Given its remoteness, there’s fine off-piste terrain for ski touring (best tackled with a guide who knows the slopes inside out). The village forms a leg of the famous high-level, week-long Haute Route from Zermatt to Chamonix, which threads through the Mont Blanc massif. One of Europe’s toughest and most memorable skis, it’s suitable for expert ski tourers only.

Planning tip: It’s not just about the downhill; there are 42km of cross-country ski tracks where you can glide to a glacier in quiet exhilaration, not to mention an extensive network of snowshoe trails, including the 5km stomp from La Gouille to shimmering, forest-ringed Lac Bleu.

Verbier

Best for challenging slopes and celeb spotting

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Cradled in a south-facing bowl, glamorous, celebrity-magnet Verbier is the Swiss king of cool, with seriously hard-core skiing spread over elevations of 1500m (the village) to 3330m (Mont Fort). Its pulse-quickening black runs, glorious off-piste, narrow couloirs and mogul-spotted itinerary routes challenge even super-adventurous skiers – the toughest being the mythical freeride Tortin. Freeriders and boarders are in their element at the 2250m-high La Chaux snowpark. Right at the heart of Les 4 Vallées ski area, with soul-stirring views of the Mont Blanc and Combins massifs, the resort has a fabulous snow record and access to more than 400km of marked pistes, many of which target bold intermediates.

The skiers that flock here – royals, James Blunt (who has a lift named after him), Richard Branson (owner of ultra-luxe mountain hideaway The Lodge), the Beckhams, Leonardo DiCaprio and Ed Sheeran included – party just as hard as they pound the powder. The champagne-fuelled après-ski scene here is legendary.

Planning tip: If you want to find fresh powder in the backcountry, check out Les Guides de Verbier. Besides off-piste guiding, they also offer ski touring, ice climbing and snowshoeing.

Crans-Montana

Best for sun and sparkle

On a high plateau above the Rhône Valley is the ritzy ski resort of Crans-Montana, where 160km of largely south-facing slopes, linked by ultra-modern cable cars, are perfect for confident beginners and cruisy intermediates, especially around the Cry d’Er section. And the 360-degree views are phenomenal, taking in white giants like the Matterhorn and Mont Blanc.

There are a few black runs in the mix, including the breathtakingly steep World Cup Piste Nationale, one of the longest downhill runs in the Alps. But that’s just the tip of the iceberg: you’ll also find ski mountaineering trails, a snowpark with a superpipe for boarders and freestylers, Plaine Morte glacier for ski-high cross-country skiing, and a happening après-ski scene. The latter cranks up a notch during the end-of-the-winter-season Caprices music festival, which brings big-name acts to the slopes.

Planning tip: One of the hippest mountain hangouts in the Swiss Alps at 2112m, Chetzeron has gasp-eliciting views from its terrace, where you can snag a hammock or sheepskin-clad deckchair to sip chocolat chaud (hot chocolate) post-ski. Reach it by ski or snowboard from the top of Cry d’Er cable car.

Bettmeralp-Aletsch

Best for serene slopes and glacier gazing

Imagine the Swiss Alpine village of your dreams, times it by 10 and you’ll probably conjure up something like Bettmeralp: snowbound, mountain-rimmed, sprinkled with dark-timber chalets and perched high above the Upper Rhône Valley at 1970m. In winter it’s pure Christmas-card stuff. And with just 452 permanent residents, this family-friendly hamlet naturally has a far more chilled vibe than the bigger resorts.

On the often sunny, car-free plateau, there are 104km of pistes forming the Aletsch Arena to play on. At the heart of the Unesco World Heritage Swiss Alps Jungfrau-Aletsch region, these are largely geared toward intermediates, snowboarders and off-piste thrill-seekers, but there is also ample terrain for beginners and experts.

Planning tip: Skiing doesn’t get more ludicrously lovely than on the run from the 2627m Bettmerhorn cable car top station, shadowing the 23km Aletsch Glacier, the longest glacier in the European Alps.

Champéry

Vast slopes and skiing to France

Nudging France in the northwest of Valais, Champéry forms part of Les Portes du Soleil (“Gates of the Sun”) ski area, comprising a whopping 600km of pistes spread across two countries and 12 resorts, making it one of the biggest in the world. A single pass covers the lot.

Dwarfed by the jagged, multi-summited Dents du Midi, Champéry’s wide slopes and long valley runs are well suited to intermediates (beginners will find them a little tough). Boarders head across to Avoriaz and Les Crosets for terrain parks. Black runs and some substantial off-piste ramp up the challenge for experts.

Planning tip: La Chavanette, otherwise known as the “Swiss Wall,” is a real thigh-burner of a ski – with a 37° slope and 76% gradient, it’s so breathtakingly sheer it’s like leaping into the void, and there are so many moguls that there is no respite from bumps along its entire length. It’s classed as an itinéraire (avalanche controlled but not patrolled).

Saas Fee

Best for freeriders and boarders

Hemmed in by an amphitheatre of 13 implacable peaks above 4000m, glacier-licked Saas Fee sits at the foot of the 4546m Dom – the second-highest mountain in Switzerland and the third-highest in the Alps. As you might expect, the scenery is out of this world. And with skiing between elevations of 1800m and 3550m, there’s always fantastic powder to find.

A happening resort today, Saas Fee was an isolated outpost only reachable by mule trail until 1951. Now the car-free resort is an architectural mix of traditional dark-wood granaries sidling up to modern chalets. The skiing on 145km of runs is overall fairly gentle: great for beginners and easy-going intermediates, though the 1700m top-to-bottom descent of the mountain ups the challenge. Experts can tackle the Weisse Perle black run and hook onto guided ski tours, while boarders find big air thrills at Morenia snowpark.

Planning tip: If you fancy a post-ski snack with a view, hop on the underground funicular to 3500m Allalin, home to the world’s highest revolving restaurant.

Make it happen

Geneva Airport (GVA) is the gateway to the Valais region, with fast, frequent and scenic SBB rail connections to all the major ski resorts. Taking the train, in fact, is often preferable to driving, as many resorts are car-free. Buses and cable cars fill in the gaps.

The ski season runs roughly from December to April. For better deals and more availability, avoid peak season (Christmas and Easter). You can often beat the queues and save money by purchasing ski passes and organising ski hire online with Intersport. For group tuition, check out Swiss Ski Schools.

Romance

A postcard from Vancouver Island: my storm-watching trip in photos

Vancouver-based travel journalist Amber Gibson recently returned from bucolic Vancouver Island, whose spectacular winter storms make for a surprisingly romantic getaway. Here’s what she recommends for this unexpected destination.

You should go storm watching on Vancouver Island because…

The huge storms that roll in from the Pacific Ocean are simply spectacular. There’s nothing between Vancouver Island and Japan but open ocean, and every year from November through March huge storms crash along the western coastline, bringing 30-foot swells and hurricane-force winds. On calmer days, intrepid surfers in wetsuits can be seen riding the waves.

Storm watching has been a popular off-season tourism attraction on the west coast of Vancouver Island since the 1990s, when hotelier Charles McDiarmid opened the Wickaninnish Inn in Tofino, with all rooms facing the sea. (Don’t worry: all the floor-to-ceiling windows are outfitted with hurricane-proof glass.)

Stormy waters off Vancouver Island — Major storms regularly have 30-foot waves and hurricane-force winds lashing the rocky shores of Vancouver Island © Nick Neacsu / Lonely Planet

On Vancouver Island, I stayed in…

Port Renfrew, more accessible than the better-known storm-watching destinations of Tofino and Ucluelet. Both cheaper and less remote than the alternatives, Port Renfrew is a two-hour drive from Nanaimo or Victoria, where most visitors arrive by ferry or plane. Port Renfrew and the surrounding lands sit on the ancestral homelands of the Pacheedaht First Nation.

The roads leading to Port Renfrew are paved, yet with plenty of twists and turns. It’s a beautiful drive – but if you’re prone to motion sickness, be forewarned. I recommend arriving before sunset because these roads can be tricky in the dark. At Wild Renfrew I checked into a seaside viewpoint studio with my boyfriend, a Vancouver native who has been fishing and storm watching on Vancouver Island since he was a young boy. The contactless check-in here is super easy. We received a welcome email the morning of our arrival with a door code, guest service hours, contact numbers and a map of the area.

Depending on how adventurous you want to be, you can do storm watching from indoors or outdoors. We tried both and discovered a uniquely Canadian version of hygge.

Hot tub on the deck of a wooden lodge — While we loved watching the raging storms from inside our cabin, we took advantage of the outdoor hot tub on our deck, too © Nick Neacsu / Lonely Planet

Storm watching on Vancouver Island is remarkably romantic because…

You’ll stay cozy and dry indoors as you look out at roaring wind and a steady deluge of rain. We loved our room’s heated floors, as, tucked into plush bamboo bathrobes, we watched the dramatic gray tempest raging outdoors. Storm watching can be as active or passive as you wish, and I felt safe snuggled in my boyfriend’s strong arms no matter how stormy the weather outside.

Our seaside studio came equipped with an outdoor hot tub, which we definitely took advantage of. The combination of cold raindrops falling on our faces as we floated warmly with plastic glasses of wine in hand felt incredibly luxurious, and the pure air whipping by felt like nature’s version of a fancy oxygen facial at a hotel spa. When our skin started pruning, we hopped out and fell into bed to find a thriller to watch on Netflix.

Wine and cheese board at Blue Grouse Estate Winery — On the way to remote Port Renfrew, we stopped for a tasting – and stocked up on wine – at Blue Grouse Estate Winery © Amber Gibson / Lonely Planet

For eating options on Vancouver Island, we recommend…

Stocking up on snacks and eating at your accommodation. Port Renfrew is really remote: you can’t exactly order Uber Eats, and there are no great options for stores close by. So I stocked up at Wild Poppy Market in Ladysmith and The Market Garden in Victoria on the drive in. Vancouver Island also has a number of excellent cheesemakers, including Cowichan Station Creamery, whose Gruyère pairs wonderfully with Truffula’s sprouted seed and onion crispbread.

Restaurant-wise, there are only a couple of options in town; Renfrew Pub is your best bet for seafood chowder, burgers, poutine and fish-and-chips made with local rock cod, all washed down with 10 different Vancouver Island craft beers on tap. When the storms arrive, however, be sure your room is well stocked, as you won’t want to go outside.

We also stopped at Blue Grouse Estate Winery for a wine tasting before crossing the island to Port Renfrew, and its selection of sparkling, red, white and rosé wines included something for every palate. Vancouver Island wines are excellent and you can’t find them back home in the States, so this is your chance to sip something new and delicious.

You shouldn’t visit Vancouver Island without packing…

A rain jacket and a solid pair of rain boots or waterproof shoes. You don’t need any special equipment or skills for storm watching, but considering the amount of rain coming down, these are crucial wardrobe necessities. I loved the waterproof knit sneakers I got especially for this occasion by Vessi, a Vancouver-based brand whose snug shoes kept my feet and socks dry even as I was jumping in puddles and clambering along the rocky beach. They have good treads too, which helped me stay upright on the slippery algae.

Catching and cooking mussels.jpg — We foraged for juicy mussels right outside our cabin, then cooked them up on the deck © Amber Gibson / Lonely Planet

At low tide, we discovered a bounty of mussels for the taking right next to our cottage. In British Columbia, you need a tidal water sports-fishing license for harvesting shellfish, which my avid-fisherman boyfriend luckily had. He plucked nearly a dozen mussels from the rocks and we cooked them up simply with butter and garlic in tinfoil pans. The massive mussels paired perfectly with the 40 Knots Winery extra brut sparkling wine we picked up along the way to Port Renfrew.

If you need to connect to the outside world on Vancouver Island…

You should expect to be out of luck. There’s no cell service here, and wi-fi can be spotty during a superstorm. So we recommend avoiding scheduling conference calls during your trip here. Consider a stay here a great chance to read a book, play board games or enjoy deep conversations with your travel companions. The powerful storms are humbling, reminding us of how seemingly inconsequential our individual lives are in the grand scope of the universe and Mother Nature.

Keep your eyes peeled for harbor seals, sea lions, orcas, otters and Pacific gray whales on the water. In the summer, Port Renfrew is known for world-class halibut and salmon fishing; it’s also the beginning of the West Coast Trail. In the calm between the storms, there are beautiful places nearby to explore too, including Botanical Beach at low tide. Another worthwhile hike, Avatar Grove offers view waterfalls, old-growth red cedars and moss-covered Douglas-fir trees (the grove is currently, temporarily closed for public safety and environmental protection). The upper Avatar Grove trail famously leads to Canada’s gnarliest tree.

Hiking through a forest of Douglas firs in Vancouver Island — On non-stormy days, Vancouver Island offers spectacular hiking through old-growth forests © Amber Gibson / Lonely Planet

As you plan your trip to Vancouver Island, you should…

Expect the unexpected, weather-wise. Vancouver Island’s west coast is one of the wettest places in North America – so if you stay for a few days, chances are high that you’ll experience the stormy weather the region is known for. However, these storms are as unpredictable as any other natural phenomenon. You might not get any storms during your stay, or you might be rained in and need to extend your stay because a road is washed out.

You’ll definitely want to review the forecast before your trip. If the weather seems severe – such as a gale or hail storm – stay inside and view the storm safely from your window. DriveBC.ca has info on road conditions in real time; note that winter tires are required by the province.

Romance

Why Fiji should be your next island getaway

Deep in the South Pacific, Fiji is one of those destinations that feels like it’s still a little bit of a secret. It has much to offer every type of traveler: those looking for an island-hopping adventure; nature-loving families who also like a little luxury; and honeymooners after a wellness retreat to revive and reconnect. Blessed with stunning scenery, underwater wonderlands, and a culture of joyful hospitality – there are many reasons why Fiji should be your next island getaway.

Fiji’s islands are full of uncrowded white sand beaches and swaying coconut palms © Tourism Fiji

Remote islands, easily reached

You can count storybook deserted islands with white sand beaches and swaying coconut palms among the 333 islands that make up Fiji. But you can narrow that number by focusing on the Mamanuca and Yasawa Island chains – both are easily reached from the arrival city of Nadi on Viti Levu and offer an array of experiences. Ringed by reef and surrounded by impossibly blue seas, these two island groups each have their claims to fame.

The Mamanuca Island chain, closest to Viti Levu, is famous for watersports such as kayaking, sailing, kite-surfing and snorkeling. It also has a range of resorts for all budgets, making it a magnet for travelers looking for laid back fun and unforgettable day trips – like taking in the familiar island of Cast Away (shot at tiny Modriki Island).

Farther-flung, the Yasawa Island chain north of the Mamanucas beckons with lush volcanic landscapes and remote villages. Easily reached by ferries from Port Denarau or by seaplane, this chain of islands is sparsely populated. Accommodation ranges from budget-friendly rooms to luxurious private villas, with thatched bures (thatched cottages) that run the gamut. But whether you’re saving money or going all-out, you’ll love snorkeling, hammock swinging, and heading to the fairytale limestone Sawa-i-Lau Caves.

Smaller resorts make for a more serene stay © Chris McLennan / Tourism Fiji

Small resorts

Fiji’s resorts cater to all kinds of travelers, from families to honeymooners to scuba divers. But it’s the smaller resorts, some with fewer than 20 rooms, where you can really make the most of Fiji’s serenity. Gloriously quiet beaches and peaceful vibes are perfect for those craving a chance to get away from it all.

The Tropica Island resort on Malolo Island has just 30 refurbished bures, suites and rooms (all but the latter have outdoor showers, patios and cozy deck swings), scattered throughout 19 acres of tropical gardens, so there’s no chance of overcrowding on this island paradise. With a large infinity pool and spa, and handcrafted Fijian furnishings, this resort has character to spare.

For pure romance, Matangi Island Resort off Taveuni, in Fiji’s north, is a dreamily intimate option, as its 16 bures feature private verandas surrounded by tropical gardens. It’s romance run amok in the ‘treehouse’, perched in the tree canopy with wraparound decks, top views, outdoor Jacuzzis, lanterns aplenty and day beds. If that’s not romantic enough, book a private beach picnic or excursion to Horseshoe Bay, on the western coast of the island, accessible only by boat.

Over at Savasi Island Resort in Savusavu, seclusion is the name of the game. The resort is built around amazing sandstone caves and most of the private villas have private pools and incredible ocean views. They even have a converted sailing ship where you can stay. In keeping with the privacy theme, dinner can be served on a deserted stretch of sand or in a beach grotto.

Mountain passes streaming with waterfalls are a feature of Fiji’s tropical North © Tourism Fiji

Lush tropical landscapes

Fiji is not just a destination for relaxing on the beach – those who towel off are greatly rewarded with lush tropical scenery and plenty of exciting activities.

The northern reaches of the country are the tropical portions, with the island of Vanua Levu having the feeling of Hawaii’s Kauai. Its hideaway villages, mountain passes streaming with waterfalls, endless swaths of rainforest and an ever-changing coastline forgotten by the world is one of the tropics’ best-kept secrets. Take it slow, keep a smile on your face and savor rural Fiji on its grandest scale.

The nearby island of Taveuni (called the Garden Island for its ludicrously lush interiors) is blessed with a natural rock waterslide and the three-mile Lavena Coastal Walk at Bouma National Heritage Park, which ends at the twin falls.

To get really off the beaten track, the northern highlands of the main island of Viti Levu can be explored on foot with Talanoa Treks, which offers a range of hikes that let you scale mountains, swim in sparkling rivers and visit historic caves. The multi-day trips focus on Fijian culture as well as the landscape, and visitors will stay in traditional villages at night.

Fiji is known for its sublime underwater experience © Tourism Fiji

Snorkeling haven and divers’ delight

With warm, clear waters, colorful fish and ravishing reefs, underwater Fiji lures divers and snorkelers from across the globe. Known as ‘the soft coral capital of the world,’ the archipelago entices experienced scuba divers with Great White Wall off Taveuni – Possibly the best soft-coral dive in Fiji – the Nasonisoni Passage of Vanua Levu, and E6 in the Lomaiviti Islands, which features a phenomenal seamount that brushes the ocean’s surface.

There’s plenty for beginners as well: The Mamanuca Islands and Yasawa Islands are a particularly good destination for those just discovering the submerged wonders. The dive sites are generally safe for novices and beginners, and many resorts have coral gardens and other easy places to explore if you’re trying to convert snorkelers to divers.

At most resorts, snorkelers can simply walk off the beach into the water to find a beautiful undersea world. It’s easy to see why Fiji is known for its sublime underwater experience.

A meke (ceremonial dance) is just one of many ways Fijians often show a warm Bula welcome © Chris McLennan / Tourism Fiji

Cultural riches

Fijians are genuinely friendly, and visitors will receive a warm Bula welcome – often with open arms and song. The best place to experience this is at one of the villages that dot the countryside; visits usually involve a kava ceremony, and possibly a meke (ceremonial dance) or lovo (feast from an underground oven), and offer the chance to delve deep into local life.

Bring a sevusevu (gift) of yoqona (kava) root, and prepare yourself for the excitement of the village rugby-field sidelines. Food generally comes straight from the garden and includes such starchy staples as tavioka (cassava) and dalo (taro) roots alongside seafood in lolo (coconut cream).

From family fun and romantic getaways, to idyllic beaches and unsurpassed underwater adventures, Fiji packages it all with its famous hospitality, traditional etiquette and a fascinating history.

Five ways to feel like a local in Fiji

Affordable Fiji: How to choose a resort

Adventure Travel

The 6 best hikes to take this winter in the USA

Days are getting shorter and there’s a chill in the air, which can only mean one thing – peak hiking season is almost here. Sure, many would say spring and summer are top times for hitting the trails. But take a look below at the best hiking experiences in the US – including snow-covered forests, a candlelight stroll, and a canyon adventure without the crowds – and it’s clear that winter has plenty to offer.

Lace up your boots or grab a pair of snowshoes and poles and get moving. There’s no need for hikers to hibernate.

A perfect snowy day for a hike near the town of Golden, Colorado. Shutterstock

1. Apex Park Loop, Golden, Colorado

5.5 miles/ moderate

You don’t have to go too far outside of Denver to slip on a pair of snowshoes and experience an enchanted forest. Apex Park, which is about 30 minutes from the “Mile High City”, offers a year-round trail system that’s prime for snowshoeing and deer spotting. To create a 5.5-mile loop, start at the Argos trail, then follow the Magic Mountain, Enchanted Forest, and Apex trails. The Apex Trail is the one that loops back around and eventually connects with the Magic Mountain Trail to get you right back where you started from.

What you’ll need: Rent a pair of snowshoes and poles from the REI flagship store in downtown Denver or a locally owned outdoor shop, such as Feral in the Highlands neighborhood and Wilderness Exchange next to REI.

Where to stay: Life House, Lower Highlands will have you yearning to sleep in a bunk bed (seriously!) with their group-friendly rooms featuring bunks that are more like luxurious curtained coves than the furniture of your youth.

Where to eat: While staying at Life House, don’t miss its botanically inspired bar and restaurant, Wildflower. Digging into wildflower focaccia and potato croquettes made with marigolds is the perfect way to end a nature-filled day.

Slip on a good pair of hiking boots to tramp through snow and mud for your winter walking. Leah Lee/Shutterstock

2. Thompson County Park, West Saint Paul, Minnesota

1.7 miles/ easy

Dining by candlelight is nice, but hiking by candlelight is pure magic. Each January, Thompson County Park lines its paved trails with luminaries for an evening hike. They also offer free hot cocoa and access to warming bonfires strategically placed around the park for pre- or post-walk snuggling. Even when the Trails by Candlelight event isn’t happening, the paved trails, including a lakeside loop, make the park ideal for all-ages family strolls.

What you’ll need: Stick to the paved trails and you’ll just need warm shoes. Or, if there’s fresh powder, bring snow boots. The park also has 1.41 miles of snowshoeing trails, so pack your clawed footwear and poles if interested.

Where to stay: Warm up fireside in a premium room at Lora Hotel in Stillwater, built in a reimagined 19th-century brewery and set on the banks of the Saint Croix River.

Where to eat: Revival’s St. Paul location serves the kind of comfort food – hushpuppies, patty melts, and cheddar biscuits – that’ll fuel an evening hike, even on the chilliest nights.

3. Yosemite Valley Loop Trail, Yosemite National Park, California

11.5 miles/ moderate

Yosemite is one of the top 10 most visited national parks in the country, and in the summer, the Yosemite Valley Loop is crawling with adventurists scrambling to get a gander at Sentinel Rock, Cathedral Rocks, and the most grandiose granite formation of them all – El Capitan. But in the winter, it’s another story. Get an eyeful without the crowds (or anyone at all if you go in the morning). The full loop is just under 12 miles, but it’s possible to do a half loop that’s only 7.2 miles.

What you’ll need: While most of the trail is flat and paved, you’re still likely to encounter ice and snow (especially on the south side). Wear snowshoes or throw a pair of ice cleats in your backpack to be safe. At the very least, go with snow boots with good traction. You’ll also want to bring plenty of water and snacks, as there aren’t places to stop along the way.

Where to stay: The closest you can get to sleeping on the loop is staying at Yosemite Valley Lodge, which has two restaurants and a lounge that serves brandy-spiked Mariposa Coffee – perfect for some aprés-hike action.

Where to eat: Crampons and exquisite culinary experiences can go hand in hand if you head over to The Ahwahnee hotel for dinner (though you should change out of your snowshoes before you go). Take in the legendary dining room’s soaring ceilings, grand chandeliers, and live piano music while you feast on prime rib and housemade tarts.

Admire how snow changes this rocky landscape. Richard Semik/Shutterstock

4. Boynton Canyon and the Subway Cave, Sedona, Arizona

7.1 miles/ moderate

Red rocks, towering sandstone cliffs, and mind-boggling rock formations are a sure way to keep the winter blahs at bay. The Boynton Canyon portion of the hike is relatively easy, with mostly flat terrain. To get to the Subway Cave, however, you’ll have to keep an eye out for a distinctive alligator juniper tree (the bark looks like the skin of an alligator) around the two-mile mark – that’s your cue to veer off to the right on a more narrow trail. From there, it’s about a half mile to the cave, including scrambling up a sandstone incline, which is what makes this hike a moderate level. But once you get to the top and see the view – a red rock tunnel that looks like it’s separating to show off the lush canyon below – it’ll be worth it.

What you’ll need: Wear sneakers with good support (even better if you have hiking boots) and multiple layers. Average highs are mid-50s to low-60s, but can be brisk if you’re heading out early. And don’t forget your water bottle or sunscreen.

Where to stay: Enchantment Resort is a wellness wonderland, with a 42,000-square-foot spa called Mi ammo, in addition to 218 casita-style rooms and suites. The resort also, conveniently, backs up to Boynton Canyon.

Where to eat after or before: Before your hike, head to Hummingbird – a restaurant inside Mi ammo – for a breakfast that’ll fuel your journey without making you feel lethargic. Avocado toast or a superfood cereal bowl are both solid choices.

5. Sterling Pond and Long Trail, Stowe, Vermont

6 miles/ difficult

Spend an afternoon snowshoeing in solitude on this remote route where you’ll likely have the trails to yourself. The area, known as Smugglers’ Notch, got its name from the smugglers who used to move supplies along the rugged path through the mountains to and from Canada. Today, the narrow pass lined with 1,000 foot cliffs once is a bucket-list destination for snowshoers. It is steep at times, so some snowshoeing experience is recommended.

What you’ll need: Here’s a trail where you’ll definitely want snowshoes. Rent them in Stowe at Ranch Camp, Umiak Outdoor Outfitters or Trapp Family Lodge.

Where to stay: If you’re aching for more snowshoeing action (or you’re just a fan of The Sound of Music), check in to the Trapp Family Lodge, built by the real von Trapp family. In addition to Austrian-inspired accommodations, the property has 40 miles of groomed trails for snowshoeing and cross country skiing.

Where to eat: If you’ve ever wondered what Vermont would taste like in pizza form, find out at The Bench. Their “Vermonter pie” is covered in cheddar, blue cheese, apples and bacon, then drizzled with maple syrup.

Take a walk to San Antonio Hot Springs in New Mexico this winter for some forest soaking. Barbara babala/Shutterstock

6. San Antonio Hot Springs, Jemez Springs, New Mexico

1.4 or 11.4 miles out and back, depending on starting point/ easy to moderate

This hike includes a mid-route reward: a soothing soak in geothermal waters. The easiest option is to begin at the San Antonio Hot Springs Trailhead and hike about 0.7 miles to the springs. However, the last 5 miles leading to the trailhead is a dirt road that can make for a treacherous ride after the rain. A four-wheel drive vehicle is highly recommended. Otherwise, extend your hike (it’ll make you appreciate the soak even more) and add the 5-mile dirt road to your walk.

What you’ll need: Water (there’s nowhere to stop along the way), hiking shoes or boots, a bathing suit and a change of clothes. Winter temperatures can range from 20°F to 50°F.

Where to stay: Maintain your calming vibes at Cañon del Rio, an adobe-style bed and breakfast where you can listen to the Jemez River while you sip your morning coffee.

Where to eat: Cowpokes, city folks, bikers and hikers alike pull up a stool at Los Ojos Restaurant & Saloon for classic northern New Mexican dishes like Frito pies and chile rellenos smothered in red and green sauce.

Adventure Travel

A complete guide to Crater Lake

As a state largely defined by its verdant forests, much is made about Oregon’s famous lakes and rivers. But in southern Oregon, some 90 minutes north of the border with California, one body of water rules them all – Crater Lake. This caldera on Mt Mazama is the deepest lake in the US, and it lends its name to the state’s only national park.

Beyond the statistics, Crater Lake National Park has several of the top things to do in Oregon, especially if you enjoy the great outdoors. At Crater Lake, you can keep busy with fishing, camping, glamping, cycling and swimming. So whether you’re looking for a scenic weekend getaway, an epic biking adventure, or a relaxing (and informative) boat tour, Crater Lake is a premier destination. Here’s everything you need to know.

History of Crater Lake National Park

Crater Lake checks out as Oregon’s best national park. Sure, it’s in a field of one, and still relatively obscure compared with West Coast heavy-hitters like Yosemite, Olympic, Glacier, and Yellowstone, but it’s also the fifth-oldest national park in the US.

Established in 1902 by William Gladstone Steel, a journalist and mountaineer who had campaigned for 17 years to have it designated as a national park, the eponymous lake is actually a caldera, formed some 7,700 years ago when the Mt Mazama volcano erupted and caved in on itself. This massive eruption is why Crater Lake is so deep.

Reliant on snowmelt and rainwater to fill the basin, it took nearly 800 years for Crater Lake to reach capacity, but the results are utterly spectacular: The lake’s glacier-clear, berry-blue color comes from the purity of the water. With a depth of 1943ft (592m), it’s the deepest lake in the US and the ninth-deepest in the entire world.

How to get to Crater Lake

Crater Lake National Park has three main entrances:

The west entrance: Drive northeast from Medford (the closest town) on Oregon 62 for 75 miles.
The south entrance: Drive north on US 97 from Klamath Falls, then northwest on Oregon 62.
The north entrance: Drive east on Ore. 138 from Roseburg to Rim Drive. This entrance is only open in the summer.

There are two main flight routes to get to Crater Lake.

Fly to Portland (PDX) and drive five hours south to the north entrance.
Fly to a regional airport – Redmond (RDM) or Medford (MFR) – and drive two hours to the south entrance.

If you are traveling in the winter, make sure to check the website or call the headquarters to scope out road conditions ahead of time.

The climate at Crater Lake

While Crater Lake is a wonderful national park for all four seasons, you may need to check the calendar and the weather forecast when planning your trip. The summer months are the best time to visit since the weather tends to stay dry and pleasantly warm during the day. Yet due to Crater Lake’s elevation (6,178ft, or 1,883m, at the surface), nighttime temperatures can drop to near freezing temps during the summer months, and the occasional dusting of summer snow can’t completely be ruled out.

Meanwhile, the winter season at Crater Lake tends to be long and very snowy, with an average of 41 feet (or 12.5m) of snow per year. While it’s possible to get some mild and dry days during the spring and fall shoulder seasons, Crater Lake often starts to get major snowfall in October, and that snowfall stays heavy as late as June.

If you like winter snow, you may love coming here from October all the way into May. However, if you prefer warm-weather hiking, a snow-free bike ride around the park, and a refreshing dip in the lake, July and August are your best bets for summer activities at Crater Lake.

A young female hiker relaxes in her tent in the snow overlooking a Crater Lake and drinks a cold beverage. The shot is from behind her. — Crater Lake National Park is open year-round, its campgrounds aren’t – thanks to the heavy snow © FatCamera / Getty Images

Camping at Crater Lake

There are two campgrounds within the park itself. Both are only open for the peak season (usually May-September/early October) due to the heavy snowfall throughout the winter season.

Mazama Campground

South of the lake, Mazama Campground is a breathtaking 6000ft-high (1829m) site with 214 pitches. Each one has a fire ring, a picnic table, and access to restrooms and showers. The campsite experiences beautiful weather in the summer with highs of 65-75°F (18-24°C). The nights are clear and cool, with a scattering of stars unobstructed from light pollution.

Also, note that Mazama Campground is the only area at Crater Lake National Park where RVs and trailers are allowed to park overnight, and you can usually reserve a slot from mid–June through September. If no RV reservations are available when you’re planning to visit, there are some campgrounds outside the national park boundaries where RVs can stay overnight.

Lost Creek Campground

This remote, tent-only campground has just 16 pitches for bold, outdoorsy types. Located around 12 miles (19km) from the park headquarters, Lost Creek doesn’t open until the snow and any debris have been cleared from the access road, usually in July. And if you’re traveling with any furry friends, note that pets are allowed at the Lost Creek and Mazama Campgrounds.

Other accommodations at Crater Lake

Perched on the rim of the caldera, Crater Lake Lodge has the pick of the views. This 71-room lodge with a popular restaurant (freshly caught halibut, anyone?) has knockout vistas of both the lake and the surrounding wilderness. Built in 1915, the hotel rooms have been remodeled, but the public spaces retain a rugged, mountainside aesthetic.

Meanwhile, at Mazama Village, you’ll find a small collection of cabins in a Ponderosa pine forest that’s about 7 miles (or about 11km) south of Rim Village. Mazama Village also has the Annie Creek Restaurant and Gift Shop that’s open for lunch and dinner, as well as the Mazama Village Store that’s stocked with groceries, firewood and camping supplies. Keep in mind that if you want to stay in one of these cabins, they’re usually available from late May to late September.

The 25 best hikes in Oregon

A smiling black hiker in cap and sunglasses walks along the shoreline of Crater Lake in Oregon, USA with a camera around his neck as the sun begins to set over the hills in the background — Crater Lake National Park has a number of hiking trails for all fitness levels © Cavan Images / Getty Images

Hiking at Crater Lake

There are more than 90 miles (145km) of hiking trails through Crater Lake National Park, each varying in length and accessibility. For a difficult summit hike, try the 5-mile (8km) round trip to the top of 7976ft-high (2431m) Garfield Peak for the best panoramic views in the park.

On the easier side, the Castle Crest Wildflower Garden Trail provides a gentle 0.4-mile (0.6km) walk directly from the Steel Visitors Center through an array of flora.

Oregon’s 7 best state parks

Cycling at Crater Lake

Topping out at just below 8000ft (2438m) above sea level with frequent hills, the 33-mile-long (53 km) rim road may only be suited to advanced cyclists, but the rewards are great: fresh mountain air, pristine wilderness, awe-inspiring angles of the lake, and regular stops for photo ops and water breaks.

Note that there are no bike lanes. For an easier, traffic-free ride, check out Grayback Drive, which has eight miles (12.8km) of vehicle-free, unpaved terrain.

Things to do at Crater Lake for families

There’s plenty to keep the family entertained at Crater Lake National Park. The visitor center is a good place to start with its interactive exhibits about the history and formation of the lake.

National Park Rangers lead Crater Lake boat cruises, providing insight into the caldera. To maintain water purity, the boat tours take place on purpose-built, low-emission watercraft. An extended version of this trip includes a stop at Wizard Island, a volcanic cinder cone that juts 750ft (229m) out of the lake, where visitors can hike, swim and fish.

Crater Lake also provides spectacular views by car, including the 33-mile scenic Rim Drive.

Other family-friendly things to do include trolley rides through the park, horse riding in the warmer months, and snowmobile trips in the winter.

Oregon’s best places to visit beyond Portland

The tree-covered Wizard Island in Crater Lake, at Crater Lake National Park on a bright, blue sky day — If you fancy a dip, Wizard Island is a good place to brave the lake © Alexander S. Kunz / Getty Images

Can I swim in Crater Lake?

Yes, visitors can swim in Crater Lake. If you’re in the mood for a dip, hike along the Cleetwood Cove Trail, a short, steep, partially shaded path from Rim Drive down to the shoreline. Cleetwood Cove is the only stretch of Crater Lake shoreline that you can legally access, so this is the only area of Crater Lake where you’re allowed to swim.

Most lake water comes from snowmelt, so even in summer, the surface temperature can average just 57°F (14°C). Pack a towel and some dry clothes. And since the Cleetwood Cove Trail is usually open from mid-June to late October, this is the only time you can legally swim at Crater Lake.

Only bathing suits and basic clothing can be worn in the water. Scuba and snorkeling gear, wet suits, goggles, inner tubes, kayaks, rafts and anything else that can potentially introduce invasive species into the lake are not allowed to protect the lake’s clarity.

Keep planning your trip to Oregon:

The best time to visit Oregon
12 free things to do in Oregon
The 5 best road trips in Oregon

Wildlife and Nature

The perfect New England fall foliage road trip

New England positively bursts with color in fall, drawing leaf-peepers from around the world. As the leaves change, crowds gather to appreciate Mother Nature’s vibrant display of fiery reds, rich golds and bright oranges draped over the region’s vast forests and gorgeous mountains.

Having grown up in the Northeast, I’ve taken many road trips to absorb the fiesta of foliage and photograph the seasonal splendor across New England. A few years ago, I put together this route from my current home base in Upstate New York State – beyond the boundaries of New England, but a bonus leaf-peeping state – to take in some of my favorite celebrated and lesser-known fall foliage spots.

I can confirm that it did not disappoint. It’s a route I’d take again and again, and you should, too. Here’s how to go about it.

Road Trip Practicalities

Trip length: 6-9 days, 743 miles as a loop; 5-7 days, 482 miles one-way.
When to arrive: Mid-September to mid-October is the best window for peak foliage.
Where to start and end: I’ve designed this trip as a loop so it’s easy for those flying into the Northeast. It starts and ends in Upstate New York, flying into Albany’s International Airport. Take in the fall scenery on either a 743-mile loop, or a 482-mile one-way trip ending in Bethel, Maine, with the option to exit by air from Portland, Maine, 74 miles (1 hour 30 minutes) to the south.
Things to know: Be alert for wildlife, particularly at dusk and dawn. On this route, deer, bears and moose can be a hazard. If you’re driving at night, expect rural routes to be very dark. The only area where you’ll need to avoid rush-hour traffic is around Concord in New Hampshire. When driving the Kancamagus Highway (Route 112), leave earlier in the morning or later in the evening (before dark) to avoid congestion, busy overlooks and crowded points of interest. Only pull off at designated parking areas where it’s safe to stop.
What to pack: In the fall, layers are key. The weather can range from so-crisp-you-can-see-your-breath mornings to T-shirt temperatures around midday to bouts of rain, heavy wind, and even snow. Be prepared for everything with hiking boots, long underwear, short and long-sleeved tops, a fleece layer, a waterproof and windproof jacket, and a winter hat. And it’s not a New England fall without a cozy sweater, so bring one of those too. Finally, bring a good quality camera…those photos aren’t going to take themselves!

Stop 1: Saratoga Springs, New York

Vibes: Somewhat upscale, yet relaxed.

Do: Your first stop after leaving Albany, Saratoga Springs is as pretty as a fall postcard, offering great food and a plethora of outdoor activities in the nearby hills and mountains. I grew up here, and it’s a beautiful little city with lots of history, art and culture. In the fall, the area is decorated with gorgeous colors. Take a stroll on Broadway, or through Congress Park, and grab a bite at one of the city’s amazing eateries – try sushi from Morrissey’s Lounge & Bistro, tapas from Boca Bistro, or pizza and salad from 9 Miles East Farm – before hitting the road to Vermont.

The drive: 31 miles (37 minutes) from Albany International Airport to Saratoga Springs, NY; 45 miles (1 hour 15 minutes) from Saratoga Springs to Manchester, Vermont. You’ll get an uplifting taste of Northeast scenery on the stage from Saratoga to Manchester, with endless hills, multicolored forests and quaint towns.

The resident alpacas at Hill Farm Inn in Manchester, Vermont. Lauren Breedlove for Lonely Planet

Stop 2: Manchester, Vermont

Vibes: Storybook fall views and farms.

Do: Arriving in Manchester, you’ll find that the mood is much the same as in Saratoga, so eat, drink, walk and be merry! Stroll the fairly easy path from the Red Gate Trail trailhead to Equinox Pond for autumnal views.

Eat: Make a reservation at the chef’s table at the Restaurant at Hill Farm, just outside town, and arrive hungry – you will not be disappointed. In town, sandwiches from Zoey’s Deli & Bakery are perfect for a picnic, and The Copper Grouse is a go-to for cocktails and elevated pub food.

Stay: Break for a night at Hill Farm Inn, just outside central Manchester, with its sprawling porch, onsite alpacas, foliage-filled views of the Equinox Valley and Green Mountains, and pet-friendly cottages for guests. Common areas include a cozy breakfast dining room (the scones are ridiculously good), a farmhouse-style porch for happy hour drinks, and a large, enticing hang-out area with a fireplace and tiny bar.

The drive: 111 miles (2 hours 30 minutes) from Manchester, Vermont, to Stowe, Vermont. If the first leg was a taste of fall splendor, consider the drive to Stowe along Vermont’s scenic Route 100 to be the main course. Take in views of farmland, mountains, friendly general stores, roadside waterfalls and a rustic patchwork of foliage hues.

Notable stops along the way include tumbling Moss Glen Falls and the small riverside town of Warren, with its own collection of idyllic falls, accessed just before you get to town. Drive along the short Main Street to see the covered bridge before grabbing a delicious sandwich and some maple syrup to bring home from the Warren Store.

Fall colors and an empty country road near Stowe, Vermont. Lauren Breedlove for Lonely Planet

Stop 3: Stowe, Vermont

Vibes: Warm and snuggly, straight out of a Hallmark movie.

Do: Drive the 15-mile Smuggler’s Notch Road (Vermont Route 108). This world-famous mountain pass draws eager visitors, who meander wide-eyed through a landscape of foliage and giant boulders. Waterfalls, abundant hiking trails, and downright stunning scenery are guaranteed. For an easy walk and views of a perfect trifecta of road, mountains and leaf color, park up and follow the start of the Barnes Camp Trail. Alternative routes include the 3-mile Sterling Pond Trail and the Gondola Skyride (open until October 20th) up to the tippy top of Mount Mansfield for a bird’s eye perspective over a sea of woodland.

Eat: Dine downtown in a historic home at The Butler’s Pantry. They serve a fantastic breakfast, with quality dinner fare off a seasonally-inspired menu. Grab an aprés-adventure drink like a local at The Matterhorn – it’s always a happening spot to be.

Stay: Stop for one or two nights at The Field Guide Lodge, with modern amenities and a boutique feel, set in a great location between the heart of downtown and the start of The Notch drive.

The drive: 74 miles (1 hour 35 minutes) from Stowe, Vermont to Littleton, New Hampshire, via Cabot, Vermont. This portion of the route isn’t a long stretch, but the scenery packs a punch, and the day involves cheese. About halfway, take a detour to stretch your legs on the quick but steep Nichols Ledge Trail, where the fall panorama will leave you more breathless than the uphill trek. A bonus reward comes in the form of cheese as you pass through the tiny town of Cabot, famed for its tasty cheddar. Pop into the Cabot Village Store to pick up some cheese and other snacks for a picnic lunch at nearby Molly’s Falls Pond State Park. Afterward, you can cross the border into New Hampshire and then head to Littleton via Route 2 and Highway 93, or add about 10 minutes for the more scenic route along backroads through pretty Peacham.

Fall colors and a covered bridge – Littleton, New Hampshire, is the quintessential New England. Lauren Breedlove for Lonely Planet

Stop 4: Littleton, New Hampshire

Vibes: Quaint and big on hearty breakfasts and brunches.

Do: Walk the riverside trail in downtown Littleton, wave to the statue of Pollyanna – the beloved children’s character created by local author Eleanor H Porter – and peruse the local farmer’s market if you’re here on a Sunday. Littleton is a convenient base for exploring New Hampshire’s White Mountain National Forest, with a sweep of hiking trails around landmark Mount Washington. You’re also very close to Franconia Notch State Park, where you can marvel at the colorful leaves along the Flume Gorge trail. It’s worth getting up early for sunrise at Artist’s Bluff; reached via a 1.5-mile-long loop trail with sweeping views that truly shine at first light.

Eat: Grab wood-cooked bites and some fresh brews at Schilling Beer Co. After a good night’s sleep, enjoy a satisfying breakfast – this town’s favorite meal – at The Coffee Pot Restaurant or pick up some pastries at Crumb Bum Bakery.

Stay: Stay one or two nights at the historic Thayers Inn, within walking distance of everywhere in town. You can say you slept in the same hotel as a slew of former US Presidents and famous actors and actresses.

The drive: 173 miles (4 hours) from Littleton, New Hampshire, to Lake Francis State Park, New Hampshire. Be ready for an early morning and a long day, but one jam-packed with scenery and remote wandering. Get a jump on the other road-trippers and be one of the first to hit the epic Kancamagus Scenic Highway (Route 112), a 34.5-mile-long stunner of a drive, loaded with overlooks and trailheads.

You’ll venture east from Lincoln to Conway, before heading north on Route 16 towards Dixville Notch State Park. Here, the 1.5-mile round-trip Table Rock trail offers a top-notch fall vista. Less than an hour to the north, you’ll land at Lake Francis State Park near the town of Pittsburg, your home base within New Hampshire’s “Moose Alley.”

Lake Francis State Park is your gateway to Moose Alley. Lauren Breedlove for Lonely Planet

Stop 5: Moose Alley and Lake Francis State Park, New Hampshire

Vibes: Remote, remote, remote – a place to be one with nature.

Do: Look out for moose! This area (and adjacent Route 3) is known as “Moose Alley” for a reason. Loaded with wetlands, ponds, and lakes, it’s a great place to try to spot these enormous deer (though keep a safe distance). If big herbivores aren’t your thing, drift along back roads, go kayaking or canoeing, hang out by the campfire or stargaze.

Eat: If you plan to camp, stop for provisions in nearby Colebrook. Alternatively, pop into one of the local pubs, or treat yourself to a meal at Murphy’s Steakhouse.

Stay: Stop for a night, camping at Lake Francis State Park. Or, if you prefer an actual bed, book a room or a cabin At Bear Tree, just up the road.

The drive: 64 miles (1 hour 30 minutes) from Lake Francis State Park to Grafton Notch State Park. Keep an eye out, as you might see moose on this stretch, too. Be sure to stop at Beaver Brook Falls, a roadside wonder accessible from Route 145 just north of Colebrook. You’ll be doubling back along a portion of Route 26 that you followed earlier, but it’s a good time to fit in extra hikes or scenic views that you skipped, particularly around Dixville Notch State Park.

Then, you’ll continue over the border into Maine for more foliage goodness within Grafton Notch State Park. The drive itself is positively gorgeous, with numerous places where you can pull over to take it all in or enhance the experience with a hike or a picnic. Popular natural attractions here include Moose Cave, Mother Walker Falls and the Spruce Meadow Picnic Area.

After, take a short drive down to your accommodations in Bethel, Maine. You can choose to end your road trip here, or continue on the loop back to Upstate NY.

Landscapes with drama at Grafton Notch State Park in Maine. Lauren Breedlove for Lonely Planet

Stop 6: Grafton Notch State Park and Bethel, Maine

Vibes: Chilled – think post-hike brews in a ski-resort-style setting.

Do: After spending most of the afternoon exploring Grafton Notch State Park, it’s time to kick back and relax. Start by grabbing some freshly baked goods (you’ve earned them) from the cutest little pie stand, Puzzle Mountain Bakery on Route 26. Their blueberry pie and strawberry-rhubarb jam comes recommended, too. Then head to the Sunday River Brewing Company and saddle up by the bar for pub grub and cold brews. If thirst lingers, grab an extra brew at Steam Mill Brewing.

Eat: If you’re craving Italian, book in for dinner at Watershed Wood-Fired Kitchen in downtown Bethel.

Stay: Break for the night at the historic, Queen Anne-style Elizabeth Guesthouse and Restaurant.

The drive: 181 miles (3 hours 30 minutes) from Bethel, Maine to Brattleboro, Vermont. Hopefully, you’re well-rested – today’s drive is quite lengthy. Venture back into New Hampshire on Route 2, then connect to Route 10 via Route 3, and take Highway 91 going south. Make a pit stop in scenic Woodstock, Vermont, a 15-minute detour from the highway. The town is a little charmer, with historic buildings, covered bridges, and a beautiful town square called The Green. Before you reach Woodstock, stop at Quechee Gorge for a great photo opportunity.

Battleboro, Vermont is your classic New England town. Shutterstock

Stop 7: Brattleboro, Vermont

Vibes: Artsy and laid-back.

Do: Sneak into neighboring Massachusetts and check out Royalston Falls before pausing for some art appreciation in the walkable downtown of Brattleboro, Vermont. Crammed with myriad galleries and shops, this is a great place to purchase a souvenir from your New England road trip. Sniffing around local antique shops and visiting the local farmer’s market are more quintessential Brattleboro experiences. Just across the Connecticut River, you can stand at the westernmost point of New Hampshire.

Eat: Do yourself a favor and enjoy a cozy meal at Plated.

Stay: Stop for one night at The Inn on Putney Road, a bed and breakfast in a historic building that was formerly an asylum, set in a beautiful garden.

The drive: 81 miles (2 hours) from Brattleboro, Vermont to Albany International Airport; 85 miles (2 hours 15 minutes) from Brattleboro, Vermont to Saratoga Springs, New York. It’s time to complete the loop! Whether you’re heading back to the airport in Albany or finishing up back in Saratoga Springs, Vermont’s Route 9 will cap off your trip with a scenic bang. This route is dotted with inviting small towns such as Wilmington, and there’s a beaut of a backdrop, with plenty of overlooks where you can take photos and absorb a last dose of seasonal color before heading home.

Tips for electric vehicle drivers

If you’re planning to tackle this trip in an EV, you’ll find abundant charging stations on some stretches but very few on others. In more remote regions, such as in northern New Hampshire and western Maine, you’ll have to plan ahead and charge when the opportunity arises. There’s a charging station in Colebrook, so it’s wise to top up there when spending time around Lake Francis State Park. On the leg from Bethel, Maine to Brattleboro, Vermont, charge up in Gorham and Bradford in New Hampshire, or White River Junction and Woodstock in Vermont. This map is a stellar resource for finding charging points.

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