It is a truth universally acknowledged that, despite countless hours of research, sometimes even the most eagerly anticipated trips can go spectacularly wrong.
Whether it was a poor choice of hotel, hiring an inept tour guide or trying those month-old ‘freshly caught oysters’, one poor decision can scar your experience of a great destination and leave you wishing you’d done things differently.
In celebration of these only-funny-in-retrospect moments, we’ve coerced a selection of Lonely Planet staff into reliving their travel traumas, and explaining how they’d avoid a repeat if they ever retraced their steps.
I signed up for a riding tour of the countryside near Copán Ruinas against my better judgement. I distrust horses. I asked for a nag, a plodder, a laggard – the slower, the better; alas, my meek-looking pinto bolted within minutes of me clambering on its back.
So much for appreciating my surroundings. I didn’t see any members of my tour party for the next hour; didn’t see much at all, in fact, as my eyes were squeezed shut for 75% of the ensuing uncontrolled gallop. Which is a shame because, as I later discovered, the countryside is beautiful.
By the time the foaming beast finally tired of my terror and returned from whence it came, with me clinging half on, half off the saddle as it trotted into the stable yard, I had lost my precious Tilley hat, not to mention my dignity. And very nearly my wits. Carlos, my guide, chuckled, shook his head and said: ‘This little one has a fiery temper, no?’ Could have punched him, but he had a gun.
Next time: I’d take a two-footed tour. Of the many modes of transport available to travellers, my considered opinion is that nothing beats a walk.
James Kay is the Editor of lonelyplanet.com. Follow James’ tweets @jameskay123
Towards the end of a whirlwind summer spent trundling around Europe on trains, a group of friends and I arrived in Vienna, eager to ogle the Austrian capital’s imperial palaces and grand concert halls.
The problem was, we were skint, and the whole trip had been very capricious, so we didn’t think anything of buying dog passes for the U-Bahn to save a grand total of 50c.
I barely had a chance to poke my head out from the underground station and look around before realising a particularly wide-eyed member of our group had been stopped by a ticket inspector.
After failing to talk our way out of trouble in a myriad of broken languages, we all chipped in for the €60 fine. This badly ate into our limited funds and – accepting the event as a negative omen – we decided to scoot on out of Vienna on the same day, meaning we totally missed this gorgeous city. We sprung for adult-fare tickets on our trudge back to the train station.
Next time: I would prioritise the booze budget less and not be too tight to buy a human-fare ticket.
Niamh O’Brien is Lonely Planet’s Multi-Regional Destination Editor. Follow Niamh on Instagram @niamhtroody
My now-husband and I visited Tokyo, where a friend kindly let us crash on his futon, and decided it would be fun to spend a night ticking off some classic Japanese experiences.
After sushi and sake, vending machine beers and karaoke bar cocktails, we spontaneously decided to check in at a ‘love hotel’, having heard about their playful, kitsch designs. Roaming the Shibuya district, we discovered most had no room, but eventually found a vacancy.
After posting a credit card through a mysterious hatch, we were buzzed in by an unseen proprietor but were dismayed to discover there was no love in this hotel. The room was cramped, grey and stank of cigarettes. A thick plastic sheet lurked under nylon bed linens, and faulty air conditioning meant the room was boiling hot. A single plastic rose in a vase on the bedside table was the only nod to romance, and to top it all off our stay cost a fortune.
Next time: I’d research the best options beforehand – and save money by opting for a ‘rest’ stay of a few hours, rather than an overnight.
Orla Thomas is Features Editor of Lonely Planet magazine. Follow Orla’s tweets @OrlaThomas
When I was a master’s degree student, I used up my entire semester’s financial aid to book an ill-advised trip for myself and my best friend to the non-budget destination of Copenhagen.
When we got there, the first thing that happened was my friend’s camera got stolen while we were using the internet cafe in the railway station. This incident set the tone of the trip.
We were so skint we ate at the same Chinese buffet once per day. We avoided Nyhavn and the lure of its (pricey, at least to us) harbourside cafes with their Scandi-cool coffees. We skipped Rosenborg Slot and didn’t even consider springing for tickets to Tivoli Gardens. Worse still, we didn’t sample a single glass of Copenhagen’s renowned craft beer.
Instead of designer Danish digs, we stayed in a couchsurfing flat where our host engaged in loud all-night copulation in the room next to our sofa-bed, the only thing separating us being a grotty old sheet strung up across the threshold as a ‘door’. The final night, we slept on the floor of Copenhagen Airport to avoid a repeat.
Next time: I’d go back with enough cash to enjoy Copenhagen’s beautiful sights and have a proper Scandinavian coffee. And a hotel room.
Megan Eaves is Lonely Planet’s Destination Editor of North Asia. Follow Megan’s tweets @megoizzy
With a copy of Michael Palin’s Halfway to Hollywood tucked under one arm and a folding chair in the other, I strolled happily onto the beach outside my hut on the island of Langkawi, Malaysia. It was morning. The beach was almost empty, the sea was shimmering and the sky cloudless.
There I was, chortling away, when I realised just how hot it was – and how long I’d been sitting in the sun. With no shade. And no water. ‘Was this bad?’ I thought to myself. ‘Probably,’ I decided.
It wasn’t until the evening that I started to feel a chill creep up on me, a prelude to the worst heatstroke I’ve ever had; the fever left me bedbound, forcing me to drink approximately 37 litres of water a day and pour roughly the same on my head.
Plans to see Langkawi Sky Bridge, the majestic 12-metre statue of an eagle taking flight at Dataran Lang, and the bound-to-be-thrilling-because-I-love-aquariums aquarium were put on hold. But as soon as I recovered and stopped vomiting, it was time to leave.
Next time: I would probably not sit on the beach all morning without any water or shade. In fact, I’d just stay inside.
Simon Hoskins is Lonely Planet’s Brand Copywriter. Follow Simon on Instagram @simon.hoskins
For travellers with a romantic streak, finding ‘the one’ should, in theory, open the door to a lifetime of loved-up globetrotting.
But what if Cupid’s not so kind? Forget squabbling about which side to stand on for a smug sunset selfie – we coupled-up fools are lucky if we can even agree on where to go, what to do and when to do it.
Don’t be disheartened. With these solutions to five common problems, there need be no trouble in paradise.
They say opposites attract, but if you and your beloved have chalk-and-cheese travel dreams, trying to plan and book a trip together can be a polarizing experience. Sun-seekers will not be impressed by your Nordic fjord proposal; the thought of staying in a party hostel dorm will leave introverts in a state of panic; and sporty types will be twiddling their thumbs before you can even say ‘spa break’.
Relationship rescue: Compromise is key here. You could form a rota system, heading to the Alps for a ski holiday one year and lounging on a Caribbean beach the next; or search for a place that combines both of your priorities. Spending time apart to pursue your own interests is a wise move and if that’s just not possible in the same location, who’s to say you can’t each go solo once in awhile?
Money issues can be a source of friction in relationships – and changing currency doesn’t help. While being abroad is a great excuse to splash out, thrifty partners won’t feel comfortable when the budget goes out of the window – and no one wants to spend their time bickering over a restaurant bill. Spending priorities can also be a sticking point; if you’re saving to move in together, for example, a three-week jaunt to Australia could be difficult to justify…
Relationship rescue: Create a level financial playing field by starting a joint travel fund. Whether it’s adding pennies to a piggy bank each month or opening a shared account, this way the total saved dictates the travel budget, rather than your salaries – and having a separate pot for travel savings means other nest eggs are left untouched. Consider heading to more affordable locations like Southeast Asia, where luxury is available for less.
Everyone is entitled to their personal quirks and qualms. But when your amour’s aversion to unfamiliar cuisine means they turn their nose up at anywhere vaguely exotic, or their fear of flying leads to whole continents being scratched off the travel wish list, once endearing idiosyncrasies suddenly become irritations.
Relationship rescue: Wannabe intrepid travellers must tread softly with a less adventurous other half. Dismissing their worries won’t work – neither does telling them to ‘chill out’, apparently – so try listening to them instead. Start small, venturing outside of your comfort zones by trying new experiences and places closer to home. If you’re lucky, each step into the unknown will boost their confidence. And while you might not be venturing into the Amazon any time soon, you’ll be surprised what you can both achieve with a little patience and understanding.
Minute-by-minute itineraries, strict morning alarms and territorial behaviour surrounding guidebooks, paperwork and passports. Sound familiar? If one of you has an insatiable need to oversee every detail, prepare for any eventuality and dominate all aspects of your time away, you may come home more stressed out than when you left.
Relationship rescue: If your sweetheart is the travel tyrant, you have two options. Go for the route of least resistance, letting your loved one reign supreme, and you won’t have to bother organising transport, visas or all that other time-sucking nonsense – but you’ll be slave to their every whim and want when you’re on the road.
Alternatively, show them you are capable and willing to help bear the travel planning load, and you’ll ease your guy or girl’s anxieties. Persuade over-planners to add some free time into the schedule as a compromise. Working as a team will bring you closer together and create a healthy dynamic for your relationship in general. Or you could always just head to India for the ultimate lesson in winging it.
If the control freak is you… loosen your grip. Travel know-it-alls are no fun.
And now, perhaps the most puzzling of predicaments: what’s the protocol when you fall in love with someone who is simply not fussed about travel? ‘Never gonna happen’, you may scoff – but believe it or not, there are people out there who to all intents and purposes seem like rational, sane, fairly attractive human beings, yet meet your talk of romantic getaways with indifference. Alarm bells ring, but it’s too late – you’re done for.
Relationship rescue: Their lack of enthusiasm can’t cover all aspects of life, so find out what their true passions are and combine them with your own. Keen runner? Tempt them with an international marathon. Art lover? Get ye to the Guggenheim. Whether it’s food, wine, music or wildlife, you will find a way to overcome their apathy. And while you may never share that unmistakable lust for the unknown, at least you can both enjoy the journey.
You might also like:
Why couples who travel together stay together Pop the question at the world’s best engagement destinations How to find – and survive – a holiday romance
Bushwalking (Australian for “hiking”) is supremely popular in Australia, with thousands of kilometers of trails lacing its national parks and wilderness areas from the coast to the outback. These routes are great for hikers wanting to spot native wildlife. Many trails also traverse culturally and historically significant landscapes, with relics and interpretative trail markers offering fascinating insights into Australia’s unique ecology and 65,000 years of human history.
The best time to lace your boots in Australia varies between regions, with outback hikes suited to the cooler winter months (April to October), while hiking in Tasmania and the Australian Alps is a more popular summertime activity (November to March). The further north you go, the steamier the climate becomes, with hiking in northern Australia recommended during the May to October dry season.
From scenic day walks to epic treks that take several weeks, these are some of the best hiking routes in Australia.
Tasmania’s Overland Track is a well-marked trail between mountains and through varied landscapes. Getty Images
1. Overland Track, Tasmania
Best multiday wilderness hike
65km (40 miles), 5–7 days, moderate
A five- to seven-day odyssey through the incredible World Heritage–listed mountainscapes of Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park, Tasmania’s alpine Overland Track is Australia’s most famous multiday wilderness tramp.
The well-marked track threads between mountains rather than grinding over them, making the Overland an achievable independent adventure for experienced multiday hikers with a decent level of fitness. A limited number of dormitory beds at seven hiking huts en route are available on a first-come, first-served basis, with independent hikers required to carry a tent, cooking equipment and food for the entire journey. For more comfort, Tasmanian Walking Company offers guided walks, including all meals and lodging at the only private accommodations on the trail, discretely tucked off the main path.
Most hikers tackle the Overland Track during the warmer months from October to May, when daylight hours are longer, and you can work up enough heat for a dip in one of the frigid alpine tarns. A permit is required to hike during this period, and you can only walk the track in one direction: north to south. But with the permit system allowing just 35 independent hikers to depart on any given day (hint: book early), the trail never feels crowded. You can savor the solitude and icy beauty during a hike from either direction in winter, though freezing temperatures and snow make this an endeavor for expert hikers only.
The trail is extremely varied, negotiating high alpine moors, rocky scree, gorges and tall rainforest, with worthy side-trips including the summit of Mt Ossa (Tasmania’s highest peak at 1617m/5305ft) and some spectacular waterfalls. Wombats and pademelons tend to be the most commonly sighted wildlife; slow down to spot an incredible array of colorful fungi growing along the paths.
Raised walkways make it a fairly straightforward climb up Mt Kosciuszko. Shutterstock
2. Kosciuszko Walk, New South Wales
Best day hike for active families
13km (8 miles), 4–5 hours, easy to moderate
With reasonable fitness, good weather and at least four hours to spare, just about anyone can summit Australia’s highest peak. Named after a Polish national hero by explorer Paweł Strzelecki, Mt Kosciuszko (2228m/7310ft) is the smallest of the world’s seven summits, and it’s relatively straightforward to climb, with raised walkways meandering up to a superb panorama of the New South Wales Snowy Mountains.
There are two routes to the top. The more family-friendly Kosciuszko Walk begins in the alpine village of Thredbo with a scenic Kosciuszko Express Chairlift ride, followed by an uncomplicated 13km (8-mile) hike to the summit and back. Aim to finish the walk in time to catch the last chairlift at 4:30pm or it’s a steep, 4km/2.5-mile walk down to the village. More challenging is the Mount Kosciuszko Summit Walk, a 16.6km (10.3-mile) return hike from the tiny ski town of Charlotte Pass (allow 7 to 9 hours), which joins the Kosciuszko Walk at Rawson Pass for the final leg to the summit.
If you’re looking for a long-distance challenge, these walks are part of the new multiday Snowies Alpine Walk, a 56km (35-mile) route made up of four separate day walks. From the summit, experienced walkers with a high level of fitness can continue through the Perisher Valley and onwards to Bullocks Flat, turning a day walk into a four-day/three-night adventure.
No matter which route you take, the alpine scenery is stunning. Aboriginal groups, including the local Ngarigo people, have had a spiritual connection to this wild landscape for more than 21,000 years. As you survey the wildflowers and glacial lakes en route to the roof of Australia, you’ll easily see why this land has long-inspired ceremony and awe.
Best hiked between late November and February to enjoy the wildflowers, both routes to the summit are snowbound from June to October.
The Larapinta Trail is a moderate to difficult bushwalk through Tjoritja/West MacDonnell National Park. Getty Images
3. Larapinta Trail, Northern Territory
Best multiday outback hike
230km (143 miles), 14 days, moderate/difficult
The Northern Territory’s most famous long-distance walk, the Larapinta Trail extends along the backbone of the West MacDonnell Ranges in Tjoritja/West MacDonnell National Park. The track is split into 12 stages of varying difficulty, stretching from Telegraph Station in Alice Springs to the craggy 1380m (4528ft) summit of Mt Sonder on the western fringe of the ranges.
Each section takes one to two days to navigate, and the trail passes many of the natural attractions in this awe-inspiring desert landscape, where you’re likely to encounter day trippers from Alice Springs. Among the most scenic (and popular) legs are section four (Standley Chasm to Birthday Waterhole; 17.7km/11 miles) and section five (Birthday Waterhole to Hugh Gorge; 16km/10 miles). With some steep climbs and rocky surfaces, these hikes are also among the most challenging, but worth it for the views from Brinkley Bluff (section four) and between Linear Valley and Hugh Gorge (section five), as well as the opportunities to cool off in remote waterholes.
Most sections have vehicle access, so you can join or leave the trail at many of the trailheads. Water tanks at each trailhead allow you to fill up with all the water you’ll need for each leg (including for cooking). Independent hikers will need to carry everything else. There’s no public transport out to this area, but transfers can be arranged.
The full one-way Three Capes Track bushwalk must be booked as a package. Shutterstock
4. Three Capes Track, Tasmania
Best tent-free multiday hike
48km (29 miles), 4 days, moderate
Rivaling the Overland Track for popularity, the Three Capes Track traverses Tasman National Park’s lofty clifftops, culminating high on Cape Pillar on the aptly named Blade rock formation in the island state’s southeastern corner. While it’s possible to hike some sections of the trail as day hikes, the full one-way, three-night experience can only be booked as a package, including a boat from the Port Arthur Historic Site to the trailhead and a bus from the end of the trail back to Port Arthur, where you can catch a bus to Hobart if you didn’t drive.
The hiking fee also includes dormitory accommodation at three surprisingly comfortable, eco-sensitive hiking huts with cooking facilities. To ensure everyone gets one of their 48 beds each night, only 48 hiking permits are available per day, eliminating the need to carry a tent. A private operator, Tasmanian Walking Company, also offers a fully catered guided walk, overnighting only at its own separate lodges near the trail.
Opened in 2015, the undulating, meticulously maintained trail traverses ecosystems ranging from fragrant eucalypt woodland to coastal heathland blooming with rare flowers, an ancient moss-covered rainforest and windswept cliffs plunging hundreds of meters into the Southern Ocean below. Wildlife is plentiful (look out for echidnas), and the coastal views are as wild and raw as they come.
The Great Ocean Walk in Victoria is an easy-to-navigate trail. Getty Images
5. Great Ocean Walk, Victoria
Best coastal hike
104km (64 miles), 7–8 days, easy to moderate
You’ve probably heard of the Great Ocean Road, the 664km (413-mile) scenic drive that traces a spectacular stretch of Victoria’s coastline southwest of Melbourne. But did you know that a walking trail also hugs the most beautiful section of the coast between Apollo Bay and the Twelve Apostles? Slow down and soak up the scenery on the relatively easy-to-navigate trail, which takes you through ever-changing landscapes – along spectacular clifftops, past deserted beaches and into the dense eucalypt forests of the Great Otway National Park.
Carry a tent and cooking equipment and sleep at dedicated campsites catering for registered walkers, or veer off the trail to stay at a range of accommodations (or eat at restaurants) located in coastal villages along the way. Designed to be walked from east to west, the trail can easily be broken up into short walks if you don’t have a week to spare. However you decide to tackle it, it’s best to pre-arrange pick-up if the local V/Line public bus service doesn’t align with your walking schedule, as other local transport options down here are scarce.
Walk through subtropical rainforest on Queensland’s Border Track. Jakub Maculewicz/Shutterstock
6. Border Track, Queensland
Best rainforest day hike
21.4km (13.3 miles), 7 hours, moderate
The Gondwana Rainforests of Australia World Heritage Area protects the most extensive areas of subtropical rainforest in the world, and you can enjoy one of its best bits on the Border Track in the lush hinterland region on the western fringe of Queensland’s Gold Coast.
Linking the Green Mountains and Binna Burra sections of Lamington National Park, the well-marked trail takes you through the ancient volcanic landscape of the Tweed Volcano, with dramatic cliffs, thundering waterfalls and relics of Gondwana flora and fauna among its many highlights. On clear days, the short, steep side-track that leads to two lookouts – Beereenbano and Merino – is a detour you won’t regret. Listen for the mimicking call of the Albert’s lyrebird, and don’t forget to look up to spot snoozing koalas.
The trail – which also forms the first leg of the three-day Gold Coast Hinterland Great Walk linking Lamington National Park with Springbrook National Park – can be hiked in either direction, with lodges at each trailhead (O’Reilly’s in the Green Mountains section and Binna Burra Lodge in the Binna Burra section) both offering transport and a range of accommodation options, including camping.
The cooler months (ideally April to October) generally proffer the most comfortable weather for this hike, but be mindful that the trail can get muddy after rain.
It takes at least 50 days to complete South Australia’s long-distance Heysen Trail. Getty Images
7. Heysen Trail, South Australia
Best long-distance hike
1200km (746 miles), 50–60 days, moderate
Stretching between Cape Jervis on the Fleurieu Peninsula and Parachilna Gorge in the Flinders Ranges, South Australia’s Heysen Trail is Australia’s longest walking trail after eastern Australia’s epic, multi-use 5330km/3312-mile Bicentennial National Trail.
Heading north from the coast, the Heysen Trail passes through some of the state’s most scenic landscapes, including national parks and key tourist destinations, such as Wilpena Pound, an enormous natural amphitheater in Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park and the verdant vineyards of the Barossa Valley wine region northeast of Adelaide.
Spread along the trail are numerous campsites and huts, with some requiring advance bookings. The trail also passes through and near towns where you can stock up on supplies, splurge on a warm bed for the night at a range of accommodations, or access shorter walks.
The trail’s less challenging southern section, from Cape Jervis to Spalding, just north of the Clare Valley wine region, is ideal for families. Hikers looking for more challenging terrain and solitude may prefer the more rugged and isolated northern section from Spalding to Parachilna Gorge. Due to fire restrictions, some sections are closed during the height of summer from December to April.
8. Thorsborne Trail, Queensland
Best multiday island hike
32km (19 miles), 3–5 days, difficult
Australia’s largest island national park, the 399-sq-km (154-sq-mile) Hinchinbrook Island is one of Australia’s most pristine wilderness areas, its granite mountains rising dramatically from the sea just off the northern Queensland coast between Townsville and Cairns. The mainland side of Hinchinbrook Island – known as Munamudanamy to the Bandjin and Girramay people, the island’s Traditional Custodians – is dense with lush tropical vegetation, while long sandy beaches and tangles of mangrove curve around the eastern shore. Tracing the latter is the Thorsborne Trail. An unhardened track that’s rough and difficult to traverse in parts, this is not a hike for the faint-hearted. But walkers who persevere will be rewarded with an incredible tropical wilderness experience taking in creek crossings, thick rainforest and lush waterfalls galore. The trail lies in Croc Country, so remember to be crocwise.
Commercial ferries transport hikers to both ends of the trail, with most hikers opting to walk from north to south to keep the sun on their backs. To help maintain the wilderness setting, camping permits are issued for a maximum of 40 people (in groups of no larger than six people) on the trail at any one time, and they can be difficult to secure during the peak walking season from April to September.
West Australia’s nine-section Bibbulmun Track is often likened to the US’ Appalachian Trail. Dylan Alcock/Shutterstock
9. Bibbulmun Track, Western Australia
Best route for thru-hikers
963km (598 miles), 6–8 weeks, moderate
Stretching from Kalamunda, west of Perth, to Albany on the south coast of Western Australia, the Bibbulmun Track is one of Australia’s greatest long-distance hikes, often described as Australia’s answer to the eastern United States’ Appalachian Trail. Winding through the heart of the state’s South West region, the “Bibb” isn’t especially difficult, just long and at times remote, with nine sections connected by nine pleasant towns offering access points for shorter walks and an opportunity to restock food supplies.
Thru-hikers may find the bush landscape repetitive at times, particularly in bushfire-affected areas, but there are plenty of highlights to keep things interesting, from towering jarrah and marri forests to wild coastlines that come into close range between Northcliffe and Walpole (section seven). Another part of the Bibb’s charm lies in the regular interactions with fellow hikers on the trail and at campsites. With a whopping 49 simple sleeping shelters dotted along the trail (available on a first-come, first-served basis), you’ll rarely need to pitch your tent.
The best time to hit the trail is from September to November, when the wildflowers are blooming, and the weather is generally fine. Long hikes in December are not recommended due to the high bushfire risk.
The popular Coast Track traces the dramatic coastline of the Royal National Park between Bundeena and Otford, just south of Sydney, both of which are accessible by public transport. Usually tackled in two days with an overnight at the basic North Era Campground (pre-book via the NSW National Parks website, and bring your own cooking equipment), the moderately challenging trail (expect lots of steps) is typically hiked from north to south, which offers the best perspectives from the soaring sandstone cliffs along the coast and keeps the sun out of your eyes.
In the cooler months from May to November, you’re likely to spot migrating whales from clifftop lookout points, while summer hikers can reward themselves with a dip at one of the numerous beaches and rockpools the trail skirts – about 2.5 hours’ walk from Bundeena, Wattamolla Beach has a glorious lagoon. There’s a kiosk at Garie Beach (before North Era Campground) typically open on weekends, but there are no official water sources along the route, so carry plenty and pack some purification tablets if you need to top up with creek water. With minimal shade on this coastal bushwalk, adequate sun protection is also vital.
The Great North Walk from Sydney to Newcastle crosses urban landscapes and national parks. Richard Milnes/Shutterstock
11. Great North Walk, New South Wales
Best urban hike
250km (160 miles), 12–18 days, moderate
Created as part of Australia’s bicentennial celebrations in 1988, the Great North Walk connects Sydney and Newcastle, linking many of the wonderful national parks, conservation areas and other green spaces surrounding both of these coastal New South Wales cities.
The inland trail (which includes a boat trip across the Hawkesbury River) can be walked in either direction at any time of the year (though it can be very hot in summer), with overnight stays at campsites or more luxurious accommodations along the way. The entire length of the trail can alternatively be hiked as a 30-day walk.
Despite the trail skirting suburbia for most of its length and including some walking along busy roads, it’s easy to feel like you’re far from civilization on many sections, with stretches including the Benowie Walking Track in Berowra Valley National Park taking you through a spectacular natural and cultural landscape. Spot Aboriginal rock engravings on the Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park section, and keep your eyes peeled for wildlife along the entire route, including powerful owls, swamp wallabies, laughing kookaburras and other critters.
12. Australian Alps Walking Track, Victoria, NSW and the ACT
Best alpine traverse
655km (407 miles), 5–8 weeks, difficult
Winding through the high country of Victoria, New South Wales and the Australian Capital Territory, the Australian Alps Walking Track traverses some of Australia’s finest alpine national parks showcasing sweeping high-altitude scenery and sites rich in history, with more than 30 mountain summits (including Mt Kosciuszko) and dozens of historic huts along the way.
An extension of the Victorian Alpine Walking Track, developed in the 1970s, the rugged and remote thru-hike – combining 4WD tracks, fire trails, logging roads, old grazing paths and brumby trails (made by wild horses, which you’ll see plenty of) – is designed for experienced, self-reliant bushwalkers with good navigation skills, as the trail can be difficult to follow. The route passes some ski resorts but no towns, so you’ll need to arrange food drops in advance. Expect to hike for days, even weeks, without seeing another human being.
Set out after the spring snow thaws to enjoy the wildflower season on your journey. Many people choose to walk shorter sections of the trail found in the likes of Baw Baw National Park and Alpine National Park in Victoria, Kosciuszko National Park in New South Wales and Namadgi National Park, near Canberra.
Check the weather conditions before setting out, and be prepared with the right gear. Gareth Griffiths/500px
Tips for hiking in Australia
Before you hit Australia’s trails, make sure you’re walking in a region – and on tracks – within your realm of experience and preparation. Check with local authorities (including national park websites) for weather and track updates, and be aware that weather and seasonal changes can considerably alter the walking experience. Always tell someone where you are going and when you plan to return.
To help preserve the ecology and beauty of Australia that has been carefully managed for millennia by its Traditional Custodians, follow this advice:
Carry out all your garbage. Never bury it: digging encourages erosion, and buried rubbish will likely be dug up by animals, who may be injured or poisoned by it.
Where a toilet isn’t available, bury your waste (including biodegradable toilet paper, but not sanitary products). Dig a small hole 15cm (6in) deep and at least 100m (320ft) from any watercourse, and cover the waste with soil and a rock. In snow, dig right down to the soil.
Don’t use detergents or toothpaste in or near watercourses. Spit toothpaste 50m (164ft) away from a river.
For personal washing, use biodegradable soap and a water container away from watercourses. Disperse the wastewater widely to allow the soil to filter it naturally.
Wash cooking utensils 50m (164ft) from watercourses using a scourer, sand or snow instead of detergent.
Read up on local fire regulations. With campfires banned on most Australian walking trails for at least part of the year, carry a lightweight, portable stove on multiday hikes.
Do not feed wildlife, as this can lead to unbalanced populations, animals becoming dependent on humans or the spread of diseases.
Do not remove anything from the trail as a souvenir, including rocks and seed pods.
Pay track fees and obtain permits, especially as these are often on an honesty system, to help maintain essential services and maintenance works.
Pack enough food and water recommended for the hike, as well as the right gear (including first aid), and know how to use it. Wearing long, lightweight clothing is ideal for protecting yourself from Australia’s harsh sun and myriad creepy crawlies.
Stick to existing tracks and avoid shortcuts. Walking around a muddy bog only makes it bigger – plow straight through.
Make noise when you walk to deter snakes. If you see a snake, which is common on Australian bushwalks, try and stay still to assess what it is doing before moving away slowly.
Paganism is experiencing a global revival as more people are reconnecting with nature. Cities such as New Orleans, US; Edinburgh, Scotland; and Drogheda, Ireland, have commercialized their pagan festivals. However, there are still places where ancient celebrations continue in their original form, preserved as locally-kept secrets passed down through generations.
These festivals preserve age-old customs, which often originate from traditions and practices that predate the arrival of Christianity. While the more serious pagan festivals observed today consist of Mabon and Yule, these five lesser-known festivals are an excellent opportunity to experience the culture of the local community and gain insights into pagan tradition.
1. The Burryman Procession, South Queensferry, Scotland
Covered entirely in prickly burdock seedheads and adorned with a crown of flowers, the Burryman and his procession of bagpipe players and bell ringers have walked the streets of South Queensferry every August for over nine hundred years, making this the oldest festival in Scotland. The oldest official record of the Burryman Festival goes back to 1687, when the festival was officially recognized. Although the meaning behind this tradition is unknown, the Burryman is believed to be the Scottish interpretation of the Green Man, a pagan nature spirit representing rebirth and fertility, and whose presence wards off evil.
Only a male born in South Queensferry can become the Burryman. Considered a great honor, those selected often hold the position for many years. In the weeks leading up to the procession, the chosen man must hand-pick the thousands of burrs that will be used for his costume. The burrs are then stuck on to fabric panels, and on the morning of the big day, the panels are carefully applied to the man until he is fully engulfed in a suit of burrs. The Burryman is aided by a team of assistants, who keep his arms propped up on decorated staffs and escort him as he hobbles slowly through the town, a journey that lasts for nine hours. Along the way, onlookers bestow the Burryman with gifts of money and drams of whisky so that he will bring them good luck.
Where and when?
The Burryman Procession is held on the second Friday of August in South Queensferry, Scotland.
2. Fêtes de L’Ours (Festival of the Bears), Prats-de-Mollo-la-Preste, Pyrénées-Orientales, France
Symbolic of the age-old struggle between man and nature, the wild tradition of the Fêtes de L’Ours has been held in Pyrenees villages for centuries, tracing its origins back to the arctolatry – or bear cult worship – practiced by pre-Christian Basques. In Prats-de-Mollo-la-Preste, host to the oldest of the bear festivals, participants reenact the legend of a young shepherdess kidnapped by a lecherous bear. The young girl prayed for protection of her virtue to the nearby Notre Dame du Coral cathedral, which greatly displeased the bear. For nine days he howled in revulsion outside of his cave, attracting the attention of nearby woodcutters, as well as a farm boy and the hermit of Notre Dame du Coral. While the farm boy and the hermit came to the shepherdess’ rescue, the woodcutters tracked down and killed the bear.
The festival begins at Fort Lagarde on the hill above the village, where a feast is held for the men who have been chosen to play the bears. The chosen are then sewn into sheepskin costumes, and every visible patch of skin is blackened with a thick mixture of oil and soot. Wielding long wooden staffs, the costumed bears let out a deafening roar and race down the hill, tackling people – women seem to attract the most attention – along the way, smearing their victims with soot. Down into the village’s winding maze of cobbled streets, the bears are pursued by hunters into the village square, where they are finally chained up and “shaved,” returning to their human forms. The festivities close with people dancing in a frenzy until someone lets off a single gunshot, signaling the festivities are coming to a close.
Where and when?
The Fêtes de L’Ours is held on the second Sunday in February in Prats-de-Mollo-la-Preste, France. Be sure to wear old clothes – chances are you will get attacked!
3. Harvest Home, Whalton, England
Until about one hundred years ago, it was a common practice in rural communities throughout the United Kingdom to celebrate a bountiful harvest with a ritual known as the Harvest Home. At the end of the season, the last of the corn sheaves would be cut down and fashioned into the likeness of a woman, known as the Kern Baby. Dressed in an elegant white gown, ribbons and flowers woven into the ears of corn bursting from her head, the Kern Baby would be hoisted onto the top of a large pole; the community would gather round and dance below the effigy, then enjoy a great feast – farmers and laborers sharing the same table.
The tradition of the Harvest Home is believed to have originated in ancient Rome. In honor of Ceres, the goddess of agriculture, farmers would weave dolls out of the last of the gathered corn and display them in their fields. The dolls served as vessels to hold Ceres after the fields were reaped so that her spirit would not go astray.
Today, the village of Whalton in northern England is the last stronghold of this ancient custom, holding a bonfire – or Baal fire – to mark the end of the harvest, and since 2016 it has been home to a 15ft Kern Baby. The festival, in addition to having many of the trappings you’d expect from a harvest festival, also typically has classic car exhibits and other fascinating displays.
Where and when?
The Baal Fire and Kern Baby dance are held on July 4 in Whalton, England.
During the month of Lent, Switzerland comes alive with a wild cacophony of masquerades, pageants, and marching bands, dispelling the oppressive spirits of winter and allowing for one last indulgence before fasting begins on Ash Wednesday. Carnival – or Fasnacht – has been celebrated in Switzerland for centuries, and although modern Fasnachts favor elaborate costumes and pop culture motifs, historically participants wore old clothes and simplistic hand-carved wooden masks. The festival dates back to 1376 and is a recognized cultural event by UNESCO.
The city of Kriens has preserved these masking traditions. The earliest known Kriens masks – or Hübelimasken – date back to the eighteenth century and were crudely made with rudimentary features. The Hübelimasken became more sophisticated over time and began combining pagan symbolism with caricatures of common figures from the region. This eventually led to the creation of the four beloved characters unique to the Kriens Fasnacht: “Wöschwyb” – the washerwoman; “Krienser Deckel” – the French soldier; “Buuremaa” – the farmer; and “Bärnerwiib” – the Bernese courtesan. Each character has its own distinct personality: the cheeky Wöschwyb likes to gossip, while the lascivious Bärnerwiib lifts up her skirts and purrs at the crowd. The Krienser Deckel, with his elongated hat of red-painted tree bark, plays the dual role of villainous soldier and forest spirit, while the grumpy Buuremaa stomps along the parade route, frightening onlookers. In the past, only men were involved in Fasnacht, however today all genders are allowed to participate.
Where and when?
Fasnacht is held between Dirty Thursday and Carnival Tuesday, prior to Ash Wednesday, in Kriens, Switzerland.
In the pre-dawn dark on New Year’s day, in the mountain town of Zywiec, a troop of colorfully-dressed men in conical hats and sheepskin masks race along the streets. These men are known as the Grandfathers – or Jukace –come to usher in the festivities of Gody Zywieckie, an ancient Slavic-pagan masquerade, heralding the end of winter.
The Jukace begin running on New Year’s Eve, going from party to party, accepting gifts of vodka, sweets, and money in return for good blessings. After attending a 5am Mass, the Jukace resume their sojourn around the city, jumping, dancing, and cracking their whips, embracing passersby and shouting well-wishes into the cold morning air. Gody Zywieckie culminates at noon with a parade in the center of the city.
The Jukace are seen as figures of good luck, their running symbolic of chasing away bad spirits and the old year. However, the origins of the characters are unknown. A popular local legend is that during the Deluge of 1655, Zywiec Highlanders dressed up as monsters and charged down the mountainside, frightening the invading Swedish army with their otherworldly looks and the crack of their whips, and allowed King John II Casimir of Poland to escape.
To become a Jukace is an arduous process; prospective applicants start as young as eight years old and work their way up the ranks of masquerade characters – Babka (old woman), Chimney Sweep, Imp – to become a Jukace. Even then, only bachelors are eligible and must undergo tests for strength, agility, and memory to determine whether or not they are right for the role.
Where and when?
Gody Zywieckie is celebrated on New Year’s Eve and New Year’s Day in Zywiec, Poland.
Pagan festivals: dates, tips and etiquette
What dates do pagans observe for celebration and worship?
There is no singly accepted calendar for pagan holidays and ritualistic celebrations. Just like there is some discrepancy between various Christian sects over the observance of Christmas, with some celebrating the holiday in January and not December, there are also discrepancies over what holidays are observed and when pagans celebrate them. But, you can use the Wheel of the Year as a general guide as to when and how pagans choose to practice their faith on their holidays.
The Wheel of the Year divides the calendar into eight key points, such as Imbolc, Litha, Samhain and Yule. Each celebration honors the changing seasons, nature and the spirits surrounding us. For travelers seeking to experience rich, time-honored traditions, these festivals provide a meaningful connection to history and the natural world.
Several smaller festivals and celebrations are within these larger, high holy days, such as Imbolc and Samhain. Imbolc is typically observed in early February, while Samhain is observed on what most people call Halloween, October 31st. These major holidays are known as Greater Sabbats (the pagan word for a holiday), while the solar festivals are known as Lesser Sabbats, which include Ostara and Yule.
In 2025, the major holidays of the pagan Wheel of the Year will fall on the following dates:
Lammas (Lughnasadh/Lughnasa): August 1st
Mabon (Fall Equinox): September 21st
Samhain (All Hallows): October 31st
Yule (Winter Solstice): December 21st
Imbolc (Candlemas): February 2nd
Ostara (Spring Equinox): March 21st
Beltane (May Day): May 1st
Litha/Midsummer: June 21st
Between these holidays are several small festivals and feast days, which can be location-specific or tied to pre-Christian cultures. But these less prominent festivals aren’t as universally recognized as the major pagan holidays listed above and are more obscure and locally observed.
Some of these celebrations include the following:
Tschäggättu, Switzerland:
Rauhnacht, Germany
Dionysia, Greece
Saturnalia, Rome/Greece
While many of these festivals are originally from Europe, many people across the globe of all races choose to add these celebrations to their pagan calendar.
Are Pagan festivals open to anyone who wants to participate?
In most instances, anyone who wishes to attend a pagan event, festival or Sabbat is welcome to join. In fact, many Wiccans and neo-pagan groups like to have new people come to their events because it dispels some of the rumors that surround their practices. Newbies can find groups hosting meet-ups on social media, blogs and other online media, and there aren’t any strict rules you need to follow to attend most meetings.
What do I need to know about pagan festival etiquette?
Respect is essential in pagan communities, and many practitioners place great value on the principle of asking for permission. For most pagans and Wiccans, a central tenet of their belief is: “Do what you will, as long as it harms none.” This guiding philosophy encourages personal freedom but also emphasizes the importance of mindfulness and consideration for others and the natural world.
So when planning to visit a pagan festival or sabbat, it’s smart to keep a few things in mind, so you can be respectful:
Always ask permission: never touch someone else’s magic or ritualistic items. This could be their crystals, wands, crystal balls, tarot cards or any other items they have with them. Many pagans believe these devices have special powers and can become contaminated when others handle or use them.
Be honest: pagan communities appreciate honesty. They want you to speak up and not feel pressured to do something you’re uncomfortable with.
Protect their privacy: paganism is growing in popularity around the globe, but it’s still on the fringes of society. Some pagans are open about their faith, but many still worry about how their religion may impact their lives. When and if they pronounce their faith to the world is their decision, so never share the identity of a pagan unless they tell you you can.
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Walk through England’s pagan past on the country’s oldest road Kurentovanje: the wildest Mardi Gras celebration you’ve never heard of The best Bonfire Night celebrations in England
Winter is NYC’s most underrated season, blamed for being cold, dark and dreary when it’s really bursting with activities for all types of travelers.
After the Times Square Ball drops on January 1, visitor numbers fall, making it easier to score coveted seats to shows, land restaurant reservations at the city’s hottest tables and snag deals on hotel rooms (check out Hotel Week – it lasts for a month).
Sure, you might contend with frosty temps through March, but that’s when the city’s sprawling museums and steamy spas come in handy. So don’t let the naysayers keep you away. Here’s the ultimate list of must-do activities that make New York a winter wonderland.
There are many spots across New York City to enjoy an afternoon of ice-skating. Winston Tan/Shutterstock
1. Ice-skate in the shadow of city landmarks
NYC is loaded with rinks beloved by everyone from figure-skating pros to rail-clutching novices. In Midtown, glide beneath the gold statue of Prometheus at Rockefeller Center ($38 and up, including skates), cruise below Billionaires’ Row at Central Park’s Wollman Rink ($22 and up, including skates) or zoom around Bryant Park (free, skate rental starts at $15).
For those who prefer views of Lower Manhattan, race around the Ice Rink at South Street Seaport for city panoramas ($13-$40, including skates) or head to Roebling Rink at Brooklyn Bridge Park to zoom beneath its namesake bridge and ogle FiDi’s skyline from afar ($10, plus $17 for skates). Visit all these spots during weekday hours to avoid large crowds.
Escape from New York’s cold weather with a day exploring the city’s most beloved museums. Shuttershock
2. Spend the day indoors at museums
When the weather outside is frightful, devote your time to the city’s 150-plus museums. You’ll never get bored at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, the largest museum in the Americas. Keep your visit on theme by searching for William James Glackens’s Central Park, Winter (Gallery 772) and Emanuel Leutze’s icy Washington Crossing the Delaware (Gallery 760).
Skip a couple blocks north to pretend you’re in snow-covered Austria at the Neue Galerie – a collection of Austrian-German paintings from 1890–1940 filling a sumptuous 1914 Carrère and Hastings mansion. Vienna-style coffee house Cafe Sabarsky, located on the first floor, serves steamy dishes like goulash soup to ward off the cold.
If you’re fighting winter blues, stop by the Whitney Museum of American Art. Painter Ed Clark’s Winter Bitch (Floor 7) shares your sorrow – and a trip to the museum’s Frenchette Bakery outpost will cheer you right up. For those craving summer weather, visit the butterfly-packed vivarium at the American Museum of Natural History. The room is kept at a balmy 80°F – exactly how the winged wonders like it.
Bundle up and head to one of New York’s great parks. Getty Images
3. Uncover NYC’s wild side in its parks and open spaces
Fight off cabin fever by exploring NYC’s public parks and waterways. When NYC gets 6 inches or more of snow cover (a rarity in recent years), Central Park lets New Yorkers sled down Cedar Hill (around East 76th and 79th Streets) and build snow people across the expanse of Sheep Meadow. Even when there isn’t enough snowfall, it’s worth wandering the park’s 843 manicured acres to spy local fauna. Circle the Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis Reservoir and you’ll likely spot mallard ducks; trek through the North Woods’ barren-branch forest to hunt for red-tailed hawks and raccoons.
Detour: You’ll spot more wild winter residents on Classic Harbor Line’s Urban Naturalist Tour, a nearly 3-hour cruise led by a knowledgeable guide in a heated 1920s-style commuter yacht ($124/adult, $86/child). Tours embark from Chelsea Piers, sailing past iconic city landmarks like the Statue of Liberty and onto Swinburne and Hoffman Islands – two winter crash pads for harbor seals.
The perfect cozy escape is one of the city’s intimate low-lit bars. Chamidae Ford/Lonely Planet
4. Eat and drink heartily at hygge restaurants and bars
Thanks to Restaurant Week (mid-January to mid-February), winter is a budget-friendly time to sample NYC’s food scene. You’ll find affordable prix-fixe menus at hundreds of participating restaurants across all five boroughs, with some three-course meals costing no more than $30 – an absolute steal by NYC standards.
Great deals aside, a culinary winter quest should prioritize snuggly hot spots. Try French wine-and-diner Buvette, with its warm lighting and wood accents, or Tiny’s and the Bar Upstairs, a candle-lit three-story townhouse. It’s all about warm soups at swivel-stool kosher king B&H Dairy – be it borscht or matzo ball. And if you’re in Brooklyn, head to low-lit Long Island Bar, where guests squish into 1950s-style booths for cheese curds and smoky cocktails (try the rye-based Erin).
5. Warm up inside a spa
When temperatures drop below freezing, warm up in one of the sweat boxes around town. It’s worth taking the frigid ferry ride from Lower Manhattan to Governors Island for QC NY – a sleek multifloor complex with saunas, steam rooms and heated outdoor pools overlooking Lower Manhattan (starting at $98). For something cheaper, try Bathhouse (from $45), with locations in Flatiron and Williamsburg – a flirty scene where young professionals mingle in swimsuits. The Russian and Turkish Baths ($60), established in 1892, is a soupçon of essential NYC: on any given day, you might find fresh-faced actors, Orthodox Jewish grandpas, adventurous couples and everyone in between hopping from sauna to cold plunge to the tiny restaurant-kitchen serving Eastern European comfort food. If you’re skittish about nudity, skip the women- and men-only hours when lots of folks strip down to their birthday suits. Come with a swimsuit or don a pair of provided cotton shorts during co-ed hours.
Planning tip: Most spas give out towels and sandals; come prepared with a swimsuit. Bring a water bottle and remember to hydrate.
Ring in the Lunar New Year in Chinatown or Flushing. Syndi Pilar/Shutterstock
6. Celebrate the Lunar New Year
Firecrackers, silly string, dancing dragons and roughly 500,000 attendees: you’ll see them all when NYC’s AAPI community celebrates the Lunar New Year, observing the second new moon after the winter solstice. The 15-day celestial celebration – often between late January and February – culminates in a boisterous parade through Manhattan’s Chinatown, with colorful paper from confetti cannons coating the streets. Another parade kicks off in Flushing, Queens (NYC’s largest Chinatown), with an equally buoyant display of dancers and floats.
Continue the New Year festivities by chowing down traditional Chinese dishes, symbolizing good luck. Dumplings bring wealth – a good reason to stop inside Chinatown’s Deluxe Green Bo for dim sum (order a bamboo basket of pork-filled xiao long bao). If you’re hoping for prosperity, noodles do the trick; get your fill at Shu Jiao Fu Zhou on the Lower East Side. You could also ring in the holiday with something sweet, possibly a pumpkin bao bun from Golden Steamer or a cup of tofu pudding from Fong On, a Chinatown institution since 1933.
7. Go on a hot cocoa crawl
Forget Swiss Miss, NYC is hot chocolate heaven, with oodles of bakeries and cafes concocting signature cups of cacao joy. Spend a few hours traipsing around town, trying some of the best hot chocolate around. Start in SoHo at Dominique Ansel Bakery, where each cup comes with a marshmallow flower that slowly opens as it melts. Next up is Mah-Ze-Dahr in the West Village, serving classic hot cocoa topped with a toasted vanilla marshmallow. Continue the sugar binge in Gramercy with a chocolate ganache-based drink at Daily Provisions – best coupled with a maple-glazed cruller.
Detour: For more sweet tooth satisfaction, take the train to Carroll Gardens, where Brooklyn Farmacy and Soda Fountain serves a decadent marshmallow-heaped hot chocolate that makes the trek worthwhile.
Winter is the best time to get cheap tickets to some of the season’s hottest shows. Pit Stock/Shutterstock
8. Snag discount theater tickets
NYC’s post-holiday travel slump – when most tourists hightail it home – is fantastic for finding cheap seats to Broadway and Off-Broadway shows. Lower demand means you can usually snag last-minute tickets – even to popular Tony Award-winners you might’ve missed last season. The semi-annual Broadway Week offers 2-for-1 deals, usually from mid-January to early February, and plenty of discounts are available on apps like TodayTix and at the TKTS booth in Times Sq.
Local tip: Theater nerds shouldn’t overlook the lineup for New York City Center Encores, a series that casts big-name stage vets in reimagined musicals (tickets start at $30). For those who prefer the avant-garde, consider traveling to Bushwick for Company XIV’s Nutcracker Rouge, a bawdy, blue answer to Lincoln Center’s annual Nutcracker ballet. Shows run until February.
9. Get cozy with a fireside cocktail
Working fireplaces might be rare commodities in NYC, but there are still plenty of places to imbibe by bright flames. Go retro at McSorley’s Old Ale House (open since 1854) by sipping pints near the backroom’s blaze, or keep it contemporary at JIMMY, the ModernHaus Hotel’s panoramic rooftop bar with an indoor fireplace. Plush velvet seats inside the Bowery Hotel’s lobby lounge feel like a warm hug; order a glass of Glenfiddich to match the scent of the smoking wood. Cozier still is Black Mountain Wine House in Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn, where you can sip rich reds as logs crackle and pop.
Madison Square Garden is a great spot to catch a game or a show in one of the most iconic venues in the world. Bruce Yuanyue Bi/Getty Images
10. Catch competitions at Madison Square Garden
Madison Square Garden (MSG) is NYC’s go-to for drama-drenched team sports. The New York Knicks shoot hoops from autumn to spring, and if you attend a match, expect to spot notable New Yorkers. Getting courtside seats to a home NBA game is a rite of passage for celebrity basketball fans, be it director Spike Lee or musician Alicia Keys. The Rangers, NYC’s hometown hockey team, also draws MSG crowds throughout winter. If you can’t nab a ticket, consider going behind the scenes – a 60-minute walking tour visits backstage areas including locker rooms where NBA and NHL players prepare for matches.
Detour: Winter’s sporting events aren’t all about humans. In February, prized pooches compete in the Westminster Dog Show, which returns to MSG and the Javits Center in 2025. Continue your canine-themed sojourn at AKC Museum of the Dog, a Midtown museum dedicated to man’s best friend.
11. See spectacles at the New York Botanical Garden
Seasonal programs at the NYBG make a solid argument for visiting the Bronx. Zip here by mid-January to catch the Holiday Train Show, a presentation with model locomotives chugging between plant-based replicas of NYC architecture. Plan your trip around Holiday Train Nights to enjoy the journey with light bites, cocktails and mocktails.
By mid-February, it’s all about orchids at an annual show showcasing thousands of species in elegant displays. Both exhibits take place inside the Enid A. Haupt Conservatory, an Italian Renaissance greenhouse that’s always warm and humid – a lovely reprieve from NYC’s cold streets.
Few destinations are as evocative as Fiji and Bali.
Taking up major real estate in most travelers’ imaginations – especially those of Australians and New Zealanders during the winter months – these two places bring visions of endless beaches, adrenaline-pumping surfing waves, tropical forests and unique cultural experiences. Who wouldn’t want to book tickets to either?
Unfortunately, difficult decisions must sometimes be made, and travelers need expertise to weigh the merits of these two vacation dreamlands. So we’ve asked a pair of passionate experts to make the case for fascinating Fiji and beautiful Bali.
Adventure writer and photographer Chantae Reden rarely strays far from the coastline. She has ridden a motorcycle across Timor-Leste, scuba dived with bull sharks in Fiji and swam beside humpback whales in Tonga, among other escapades.
The hug of warm, tropical weather greets you as soon as you step off the tarmac in both Bali and Fiji – but you won’t find swarms of drivers shouting for your attention at the latter’s main international airport. (Of course, there’s always a taxi driver close by when you need one.) Fiji’s relaxed hospitality starts as soon as you arrive, and continues until you hear the sweet sound of “Isa Lei,” the islands’ heartfelt farewell tune.
I’ve called the 333-island nation of Fiji home for the past seven years, and its laid-back and fun-loving bula spirit is truly infectious. Though Bali is also close to my heart (I wrote a guidebook about the Island of the Gods, after all), Fiji deserves to be your next island escape.
Pristine nature
Fiji’s natural wonders are clean and rarely crowded. Fiji has fewer than a million residents spread across its hundreds of islands, and traffic only truly exists in the cities where few tourists ever venture. Unlike Bali, whose beaches suffer from crowds and plastic pollution, Fiji’s stretches of white sand are pristine all year long.
Solitude in nature is easy to find in Fiji. Village custodianship over Fijian lands make waterfalls and trekking trails a bit more challenging to access without a guide than those in Bali – but the effort is well worth it. You can climb to Fiji’s tallest peak, Mt Tomanivi, on the island of Viti Levu, or search for Fiji’s rare tagimoucia flower on the island of Taveuni, without encountering another person. Venture to the Lau Islands, a region without any formal hotels or airports that’s only accessible by boat, and you’re unlikely to come across no other tourists at all.
As for the hotels: they’re spread throughout the islands, which means there’s no need to jostle for a spot in the shade or ward off persistent beach vendors. Even the local markets are a pleasant place to visit, with most merchants adopting a take-it-if-you-like, no-worries-if-not attitude about their heaps of colorful fresh produce.
If you have little travelers to please, Bali and Fiji are both top-tier destinations for families. But it’s Fiji that takes the lead when it comes to child-friendly culture and entertainment. I’ve seen hotel security guards abandon their post to instigate a game of touch rugby for kids. Traveling around the islands with my infant twins has given me a glimpse of what it’s like to be treated like a celebrity. Most resorts have kids’ clubs and affordable nannies; parents and children can each get the vacation of their dreams.
Waves worth the journey
Both Bali and Fiji host championship surf contests at their world-class waves. And while I can’t deny the epicness of Bali’s waves of Uluwatu and Padang Padang, Fiji is certainly not swell-shy, with its famous Cloudbreak and Restaurants breaks. Most of Fiji’s waves require a boat ride to reach – unlike the easy access of Bali – but this serves to minimize the crowds at waves best suited for experienced surfers only.
Below the water, you can peer through your dive mask and come eye to eye with sea life both big and small. Manta rays, sea turtles, hundreds of species of reef fish and reef sharks make regular appearances around Fiji’s vibrant hard- and soft-coral reefs. It’s also one of the few places in the world where you can dive with bull sharks, without a cage – if you dare.
Fijian hospitality extends beyond resort doors. It’s customary to enter a village with a sevusevu, a traditional gift like yaqona (pepper root), then be welcomed with warmth. Spend the day sipping coconut shells filled with kava (the drink made from ground pepper root), dancing and feasting on Fijian fare of just-caught fish, taro leaves cooked in coconut cream, and smoked meats. On the weekends, follow the harmonic hymns to the local church or join in on a Hindu celebrations taking place in Indo-Fijian communities around Suva, Nadi and Labasa.
No matter where you go, expect a hearty greeting of “Bula!” and genuine warmth. Bali simply can’t beat that.
Mark Eveleigh lived in Bali for a year in 2022 – and has since returned regularly to a West Balinese village where he has some well-stacked bookshelves and a shed crammed with surfboards.
It’s sometimes said that the best things come in small packages. I fell in love with the diminutive island of Bali 20 years ago, and have since explored every corner of the island. Even now, I remain stunned by the variety on a land mass less than a third the size of Fiji.
Most people know Bali for its world-famous beaches and celebrated resorts, including some of the most luxurious (and expensive) on the planet. Yet you don’t need an infinite budget to enjoy Bali’s pleasures: a bungalow overlooking a deserted beach can go for $20.
Its selling points have caught on with the crowds, it’s true. Yet only a minority of visitors – even among veteran expats – ever venture beyond the celebrated art and yoga heartland around Ubud. Venturing just a bit further afield, you’ll find yourself among dense jungle valleys and vast paddy landscapes that ascend, like a giant’s staircase, toward the sacred peaks.
Don’t assume Bali is just sand. A half-day excursion (quicker on a rented scooter) takes you to the solitude of the highlands. Bali’s spectacular volcanic landscapes stretch westward from sacred Gunung Agung (at 3412m / 11,195ft, it’s well over double the altitude of Fiji’s highest point) past smoldering Batur to the rarely visited rainforests of Batukaru Mountain.
You don’t have to seek out culture on the Island of the Gods; it’s literally everywhere, with the vibrant rituals of Balinese Hinduism enacted in small villages, the backpacker hangouts of Kuta, and around the trendy beach clubs of Seminyak alike. Spend time exploring farther and you might even feel some similarities with far-off Fiji. As in Fijian traditional communities, rural villages are governed primarily by a community of elders, known as the banjar. At Mekare-kare festivals, where the young warriors of Tenganan fight to draw blood with pandan “swords,” or during the daily launching of jukung (outrigger fishing canoes) into the pounding waves, it would be easy to imagine that you’re on a Pacific Island. Bali’s connection to the sea is especially evident in the fishing town of Perancak, the anchorage for more than 100 selerek, brightly painted, 20m(66ft)-long fishing vessels.
The western third of the island remains virtually unknown to outsiders, and few tourists (or even islanders, for that matter) realize that uninhabited jungle and seemingly endless beaches that rarely see a foreign footprint are the norm here. You could walk for hours along the beautiful curve of wave-pounded volcanic sand that is Yeh Leh Beach – just 50km (31 miles) from the international airport – without meeting anyone other than a handful of local fishermen.
In Fiji, you need a boat to reach just about any decent surfing wave. In Bali, meanwhile, instantly accessible surf breaks have made spots like Uluwatu and Canggu world-famous (perhaps a little too famous). If you want to break away from the pack, count on the low-key surf towns of Keramas, Balian and Medewi – the last town the gateway to countless, entirely un-surfed beach-break waves along the southwest coast.
If you’re drawn to calmer waters, Bali has excellent diving and snorkeling, with sightings of sharks, turtles, barracudas, dolphins and even the occasional whale shark off the tranquil north coast. Inland, you’ll find adventure activities in the form of hiking, mountain biking, horseback riding, quad-biking and even white-water rafting. You can walk with rare pink buffaloes in Pekutatan, or attend Jembrana’s dramatic (if somewhat gory) mekepung buffalo-chariot races. In West Bali National Park you can take jungle hikes amid large herds of wild sambar deer, gibbon-like ebony-leaf monkeys and flocks of Bali starlings (the island’s own “bird of paradise”).
If it’s the notion of hopping from tropical island to tropical island that draws you to Fiji and the South Pacific, keep in mind that Bali is but a speck in the vast, dense Indonesian archipelago. Lombok and the Gilis are on every backpacker bucket list, sure – but there are 17,500 other Indonesian islands waiting to be explored.
Who knows? One of them might even be as enchanting as Bali.
If someone asked, “Are you are happy?” what would you say? Well, if you lived in Fiji, there is an almost nine-times-out-of-10 chance you’d say “yes!” According to WIN-Gallup, 89% of Fijians report they are happy, making Fiji one of the happiest countries in the world. And what are the odds that a trip to Fiji will make you happy? Good! Here are ten reasons why Fiji is such a spirit-lifting destination.
1. Color
With myriad greens in the landscapes, yellows and chartreuse mingling as palm trees rustle in the breeze and the bright oranges of ripe mangos and papayas, Fiji flaunts all the feel-good colors. White waterfalls tumble into black lava rock pools for some calming notes. Everywhere you turn there’s something colorful to make you smile. Then there’s the brilliant blue and green of a sea that’s comfortably warm enough to plunge into while still being refreshing. Below the surface are thriving corals and enough fish to impress Jacques Cousteau. Dive in because few things on Earth can make you feel better than a dip in a turquoise blue sea.
The happy hues of a blue sky and turquoise sea. Image by Christian Haugen / CC BY 2.0
2. Climate
With balmy temperatures hovering between 79 to 88 degrees Fahrenheit (26 and 31 degrees Celsius) few complain of the cold in Fiji. Clothes are needed for modesty only and life happens mostly outdoors. With all the sunshine no one is going to end up vitamin D deficient and plenty of rain keeps the land fresh and thriving with abundant food and clean water. This facilitates keeping in tune with nature, perhaps by enjoying the phases of the moon on warm nights, embracing the joy of a sunset or appreciating a happy jolt from cool raindrops on the skin.
3. Community
Fiji has a very tight-knit society that is mostly village based. Even the cities feel small and aunts, uncles and cousins are likely to live in the same neighborhood. Kids are cared for by the community, and –yes, nowhere is perfect – the crime rate is low. Young people are free to roam around and play. The bond between people and the support they offer each other is palpable. Perhaps it’s this solid base that makes Fijians so friendly and welcoming to visitors.
A warm and happy welcome from these singers on Kadavu Island, Fiji. Image by Paul Harris / Getty Images
4. Fresh food
Fiji is known to have some of the best food in the South Pacific thanks to the Indian, Southeast Asian and Chinese influences blended with Melanesian staples like taro, tropical fruits, coconut, pork and seafood. Because it’s expensive to import food, much of what’s available is local, fresh and there’s an evolving organic kitchen garden movement from the individual level to villages and resorts. Just looking at the fruit dripping from the trees, the numerous fish in the ocean and the smells wafting from Indian restaurants is enough to make most people smile – and lick their lips.
5. Kava
Called Yaqona in Fiji, this ceremonial narcotic is more popular than beer in these islands. Pass through any village and chances are someone will be drinking it and they may offer you a bowl, or three. It tastes like muddy water and if you drink too much your mouth gets Novocain-numb, but in return, you get a sense of well-being and the beautiful Fijian world around you becomes even more calm. Other than the taste, the process of drinking kava is relaxing: half-coconut bowls are passed to each drinker individually, you clap your hands once and say “bula” (meaning hello, love, and more) before downing it (ideally) in one gulp. This close and social ceremony brings people together while they enjoy the tranquility of the kava. Kava makes people serene, so unlike alcohol, it doesn’t result in drunken drama or boozy brawling.
6. Music
A warm starry night, a good meal and some kava drinking inevitably means that the guitars come out and everyone sings, slaps their knees, plays the spoons or just hums along with the song. No one is going to be playing anything too serious or sad, rather you’ll be hearing fast paced Fijian tunes or upbeat Western favorites. Even the biggest grouch in the world would be hard-pressed not to smile with this sort of revelry going on.
7. Fiji time
No watch? No problem. No one hurries in Fiji. When plans are delayed, things don’t go as expected or something just slipped up somehow, people don’t worry or dwell, chances are they’ll take a nap, chat with a friend or have another bowl of kava. It’s amazing how much stress this elastic attitude about time alleviates. What will be will be, just keep on having a good time.
Happiness is riding a natural water slide on the island of Taveuni. Image by Justin Lewis / Getty Images
8. Ceremony
Religion runs deep in Fiji and the Christian, Islamic, Hindu and Sikh faiths are all well represented. But beyond the churches and temples (which fill on their days of worship), the Fijian culture itself holds many traditions. Sevusevu, whereby a visitor presents the village elder kava root, then it’s served in a traditional ceremony, is deeply important. When walking through villages it’s imperative to wear a sulu (sarong) to cover the legs, shoulders and upper bodies should be covered and no one should carry a bag from a shoulder strap or wear a hat. While all this sounds complicated, these rules show respect for the community and inspire unity.
9. Multiculturalism
Visitors mostly see the native Fijian side of Fiji but in fact only 57 percent of the population claim full Fijian ancestry. The majority of the remaining islanders are Indo-Fijians of Indian heritage but Chinese, Southeast Asians, European, and other Melanesians and Polynesians (from elsewhere in the Pacific) have settled here. Like in any society, a mix of cultures doesn’t make for perfect harmony, but it keeps things interesting. If variety is the spice of life, Fiji is a fiery hot curry.
You will see smiles everywhere. Image by Mark Tipple / Getty Images
10. Peace
Fiji has had a rocky political past and only recently held open democratic elections again after a coup in 2006. But even at its most tense, serious violence has not been an issue here and the current situation appears to be solid. With the isolation of island life most people try not to worry too much about the problems of the world and the closeness of a system of local governments means people feel that their opinions and community actions actually make a difference.
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This article was originally published October 2014. It was updated November 2020.
Professional surfers, photographers and writersshare their favorite places to surf in Europe.
Many would say that when it comes to surfing, we live in a post-exploration era in which even the most remote, difficult-to-get to breaks hold at least whispers of others having visited before you.
And while some surfers mourn this loss of discovery, many more are celebrating the very compelling upside: more waves. The truth is that surfing is more democratic than ever. There may be less in the way of surf discovery, but we are in a golden era for surf travel.
In Lonely Planet’s handy book, Epic Surf Breaks of the World, professional surfers, photographers and surf writers share what makes these top European surfing spots so special to them.
Some surfers seek out bigger swells to test themselves. Surf photographer Chris Burkard preferred to journey beyond the Arctic Circle to the north of Norway.
“My body screamed in pain as hot water from the shower rained down on me. I was trying desperately to get the feeling back in my hands. I later learned that re-warming is a slow process, and trying to speed that up can cause serious nerve damage. It is perhaps the most valuable thing I learned on that first trip – I have been back here three times since, and am almost always on the verge of frostbite when I visit.
“Sitting out in the water there, I feel a deep sensation of just how small I am within nature. There’s so much beauty in the Lofotens, but there’s also mystery. These old rocks with their tiny, craggy bays, complex fjords and idyllic towns have hidden and protected some of the world’s hardiest men, women and children for the last couple of thousand years.
“Here, a 6mm wetsuit isn’t much different than Viking battle armor. Because let’s be honest, when you enter that water in Unstad Bay, you are going to war.”
Type of wave: Beach break, left and right point break.
Things to know: The average water temperature is around 12°F (-11°C) toward the end of summer, and 6°F (-14°C) in April. You’ll need a thick hooded wetsuit, boots and gloves (a 6/5mm in April). Between November and February, there is little daylight, but between mid-April and August you can surf almost 24/7.
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For British surf photographer Al Mackinnon, the barrels of Thurso, Scotland, were as elusive as Nessie. But since he first spotted them, he’s known exactly where – and when – to look.
“A year or two later, I made the drive once again. This time things were markedly different. The first thing I noticed was that the bay was dead calm, like a millpond. I thought I’d been hoaxed once again. Then I noticed a bloke unsheathing a 7ft pintail made for riding big tubes, and another bloke waxing up a semi-gun.
“The water at Holborn Head, the point behind Thurso where swells pass before arriving at the reef, turned dark. Soon there were lines discernible inside the bay. Then, an immaculately groomed set arrived, thick and moving at formidable speed. Each swell hit the reef and thundered down the line with incredible precision and ferocity. It was double overhead and, yes, barrelling all the way with thick, serrated lips.
“That set and the ensuing two days of swell changed the course of my life. I may have already been on a trajectory toward melding my two greatest passions – waves and photography – but it was the perfection I witnessed at Thurso East that sealed the deal.”
Type of wave: Right reef break.
Things to know: Surfing in Scotland has boomed in recent years, so don’t expect to have its premiere wave all to yourself. However, there is a plethora of waves around, some of them completely devoid of crowds.
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Brendan Buckley visited Biarritz in France for crepes and café au lait. But after sampling Hossegor’s famous pounding beach break – La Gravière – he decided to move there for good.
“Hossegor is the epicenter of wave riding on the European continent, hosting the entire spectrum of surfers: long-haired longboarders with groovy vans; performance-obsessed short boarders, who do jumping jacks in spring suits; old men who shred; little girls who shred. While Biarritz – the larger, more famous city, some 40 minutes to the south – also has some great surf, it doesn’t get the world-class waves of Hossegor.
“All kinds of surfers make a pilgrimage to La Gravière, either to paddle out and take on the notoriously fast, barrelling beach break, or just to stare out at the bombs as they detonate so close to the sand it’s hard to imagine getting a few turns in. You’ve probably heard so much about ‘La Grav’ that you feel like you’ve seen it or surfed it even if you’ve never been to France. It’s a wave that surfers gravitate toward, regardless of what the reports tell them.”
Type of wave: Barreling beach break with rights and lefts.
Things to know: There’s a cliché about the waves in France: if you check the surf and it’s firing, you’re already too late. And it’s true. Tides are massive here and they can turn a wave on and off within an hour. Keep your options open and never be too stubborn to paddle down the beach.
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Alf Alderson likes the fact that England’s best reef break is a little too far north for the masses. But as one of the UK’s greatest hits, most surfers eventually make the trip.
“These days, surfers come from all over the UK for the three fast, powerful reef breaks that rear up here from the murky waters of the North Sea. Northerly groundswells that may well have traveled all the way from the Arctic grind ashore in Staithes after being funneled down and diverted shorewards. Occasionally, those waves then encounter prevailing offshore winds. And, presto, Staithes starts firing.
“Most of my trips to Staithes unfold under a backdrop of sea and sky, blended in a grey-brown wash, an atmosphere where the thrill of anticipation is tempered by the somber scenery and the chilly waters. Regardless of the weather, something funny happens when a great wave comes along. Taking off on one of the bowly lefts that mark The Cove, feeling that weightless drop before hooning along the face and seeing the lip of a barrel unfurl in front of me, I feel like I could be in Portugal.”
Type of wave: Left-hand reef breaks on shallow reefs.
Things to know: The ideal equipment is a high-performance shortboard, or a semi-gun for bigger days. A minimum 5/4 mm wetsuit, or thicker for winter, is recommended, as are booties and a hood.
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The sea has provided for the people of Nazaré, Portugal, for centuries, and the tradition continues with Big Wave tourism. Portuguese photographer Ricardo Bravo has witnessed this evolution.
“In general, the beaches around here are considered to be best avoided. Most families from Nazaré make their living from fishing, and many have lost someone to these wild seas. Nazaré’s main village beach, Praia da Vila, was already considered extremely dangerous. Further north, Praia do Norte, where the swell often triples in size and power, seemed like a piece of hell on earth.
“And as much as I admire those who come to ride Praia do Norte, it’s the ocean and its magnificent shapes that leave me awestruck every time I witness it break. In my years of traveling the world, I’ve never seen anything remotely similar to the waves of Nazaré: they are powerful, raw, unpredictable and frightening. Even if surfers manage to ride them for brief moments of glory, these giants will always be indomitable.”
Type of wave: Right- and left-hand beach break, anything from 3ft to 50ft-plus.
Things to know: Nazaré has become one of the most famous big-wave surf spots in the world, and the best one for spectators. Even if you’ll never surf it, watching the show from the headland affords a rare view of big-wave surfing, and it’s worth the trip for that alone.
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Ireland’s entire coastline is rich with rideable waves. Alf Alderson heads to Bundoran, where an unlikely but iconic surf town has sprung up beside some of the best swells in Europe.
“Every time I surf in Ireland, and Bundoran in particular, it’s about far more than simply riding waves. The area’s wild, romantic landscape and rich culture are almost the polar opposite of the backdrop we’re used to on surf trips. My own visits to Bundoran also tend to include a trudge up the lower slopes of the 1500ft Benbulbin, which rises like a fantastical monolith above the town. Looking around, it’s easy to see how the strange, melancholy atmosphere here has fuelled the country’s artists and poets over centuries.
“From atop the hill, I stared out at the coastline of Sligo and Donegal, once again daydreaming about all the surf here. Ireland’s outline twists and turns like a scalded snake, and any surfer can immediately see how the country has some of the best and most varied waves in Europe. Flat days are rare here. I’ve always managed to find a wave, every visit, whether mellow rollers beyond the golden sands of Tullan Strand or challenging, head-high A-frames at my favorite spot, The Peak.”
Type of wave: Left-hand reef break.
Things to know: A car is essential to make the most of the range of breaks here. Bring equipment for cold-water waves that range in size from knee-high to triple overhead.
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Some say Mundaka is Basque for “fickle”. After years of visiting Northern Spain, hoping for conditions to cooperate, Jake Howard finally scored.
“For three years I’d been chasing Mundaka, and I still hadn’t had a proper surf here. Coming to town to cover the Billabong Pro, several times, I had yet to see the wave do its thing. Sure, a lot of world-class breaks are fickle – and that’s what makes many of them so magical – but Mundaka is beyond unpredictable. Because of the way it’s protected from the raw energy of the Atlantic, it requires a very specific swell angle. And that is precisely why so many surfers chase it. When it turns on, it’s a freight train, top-to-bottom left-hand barrel that requires commitment. However, before any of that, the wave simply requires patience.
“I was only in the water a few minutes before a large, rolling set came steaming through in the early dawn light. A few silhouetted figures splashed around me like jumping fish. I dodged the first two waves, perhaps not quite ready. But the third wave that came my way was the one.
“I was up. Anxiety washed away, replaced by the thrill of flying down the line. The waves were indeed serious, and the session required my full attention. But Mundaka had finally let me in.”
Type of wave: Left-hand, sand-bottom point break.
Things to know: Staying in position in the lineup is challenging. Enter through the harbor to insert yourself directly into the lineup. Once in unprotected waters, it’s like stepping onto an aquatic treadmill.
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In Cornwall in England’s far west, Alex Wade found a home in a place where the landscape is raw and you never know who – or what – you might encounter in the lineup.
“A 3ft green-blue wall heads straight for me. I take off, and just as I look along the face, there’s an explosive burst of grey, blue and silver, angling down the wave. It’s a dolphin, surfing the same wave. I trim to the left, standing, watching the dolphin ahead of me, letting the wave carry us both and wishing that this moment would last forever.
“In 35 years of surfing, the best oceanic experiences of my life have happened in easy reach of my home in Cornwall. Sennen Cove is the mainland UK’s most westerly beach, a wild and magical place, pummelled by swell all year and with a setup that’s perfect for all types of surfers.”
Type of wave: Beach break.
Things to know: As with all beach breaks, the rips will be strong on big days. Don’t try and park in the cove in the summer – it’ll be rammed. Instead, park in the field above the cove and walk down to the beach.
Portugal’s heavy and unforgiving beach break is not the place to make mistakes. Stuart Butler found out the hard way.
“The next wave was a little larger and angled slightly more to the north – it was heading straight for me. I turned, made two or three easy paddle strokes until I felt the wave pick me up. I dropped in and made one easy bottom turn as the wave stood tall. In front of me, the lip pitched – a rare invitation into the tube. Once on it, it was a surprisingly simple wave to ride. I don’t remember having to do anything but lean into it and enjoy the moment. Eventually, I was blasted cleanly out onto the shoulder. A smile wrapped around my face.
“But as I turned to paddle back out, Supertubos was there to collect on what it had just given me. A new set came crashing down on top of me, ripping the board out of my hands. Then, I felt the familiar tug on my ankle. I had, once again, snapped my leash. No wonder the surf shops in Peniche are thriving.”
Type of wave: Beach break, where the lefts tend to be better than the rights.
Things to know: Supertubos might be a beach break, but don’t underestimate how heavy it can get. Perfect conditions are not that common; closeouts are. Bring spare leashes. When it’s good, expect heavy crowds – and a talented local crew, who ensure they get the pick of the waves.
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Isabella is one of the writers on the brand new Canary Islands guidebook. Here she helps you decide which of the island is right for your perfect holiday.
Spain’s far-flung Canary Islands are deservedly one of Europe’s most popular travel destinations, but there’s much more to them than the famous “winter-sun” tagline suggests.Eight wonderfully varied islands make up this entrancing volcanic archipelago off Morocco’s Atlantic coast, where eerily beautiful lava-sculpted landscapes sweep from black-sand beaches and sparkling sea pools to misty laurisilva (laurel forests), scented pine groves and curiously craggy peaks.
You could visit year after year (like many travelers do), exploring a different island each time, and still be blown away by the Canary Islands every single trip.
First-timers are often drawn to the larger, better-known Canaries, particularly Tenerife and Gran Canaria, but each island has its own personality. Lanzarote and Fuerteventura on the east side feel beachier, surfier and more laid-back, while the three western islands – La Palma, La Gomera and El Hierro – are much less touristed than the rest.
You don’t have to stick to just one island either, as excellent flight and ferry links make it easy to plan a longer island-hopping trip. No matter your travel style, here’s a guide to finding the Canary Island that’s best for you.
1. Tenerife
Best island for epic hikes, mountain scenery and family trips
The archipelago’s largest and most-visited island combines sun-baked golden beaches and a flourishing gastronomic scene with seemingly endless activities, from cetacean-spotting in Europe’s first Whale Heritage Site to next-level surfing, kitesurfing and hiking. Tenerife is a hugely popular pick for holidaying families, but has enough variety to entertain a wide range of visitors, especially beyond the main south coast beach towns.
There’s the spectacular Parque Nacional del Teide, where Spain’s tallest peak looms 3718m tall and walking trails thread through a moon-like high-altitude valley. Catching a glimpse of El Teide – originally known as Echeyde by the island’s indigenous Guanche communities – here is easily one of the Canaries’ wow moments. More thrilling hikes await in the biodiverse Anaga mountains, where laurel forests carpet the northern landscapes, or across the wild, secluded Parque Rural de Teno in the northwest.
Tenerife’s culture-packed capital Santa Cruz is an enticingly laid-back city dotted with subtropical gardens, creative galleries and bold street art, and also hosts Spain’s most fabulous Carnaval each winter. The less-developed north coast, meanwhile, has a wealth of natural sea pools, sloping volcanic vineyards, organic banana farms and historical villages like Garachico to explore.
Planning tip: If you’re planning to hike to the top of El Teide, you’ll need to book a free permit as far ahead as possible.
Las Palmas in Gran Canaria will keep you entertained for days. iStock / Getty Images
2. Gran Canaria
Best island for coasts, culture and city buzz
The most populous of the eight islands, Gran Canaria is best known for its lively southern beach resorts, especially sun-dappled Maspalomas, which is a hub of Europe’s LGBTIQ+ scene and has a much-loved stretch of gold-tinged dunes. The island famously has its own microclimate, which varies from one pocket to the next.
There’s heaps more to discover here beyond the beaches and parties though, starting with the soulful island capital Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, Spain’s ninth-largest city and home to one of the world’s great winter carnivals. With its architecture-loaded old town of Vegueta, lagoon-like Playa de las Canteras and unmatched urban food scene, it makes a rewarding city break if you only have a few days.
Elsewhere across the island, swirls of mist-cloaked mountains give way to desert-like fields and lush laurel and pine forests, while intriguing pre-Spanish-conquest sites like Gáldar’s Cueva Pintada tell the story of Gran Canaria’s indigenous communities. Explore further on a twists-and-turns road trip through the island’s high-altitude center, whose drama peaks at the astonishing Roque Nublo and Roque Bentayga monoliths. Then drop into elevated villages like Artenara and Tejeda, and stock up on creamy queso de flor (flower of cheese) and other local goodies at one of the buzzy farmers’ markets.
Lanzarote’s black sandy beach are world famous – and rightly so. Oleg Znamenskiy / Shutterstock
3. Lanzarote
Best island for art, beaches and wineries
With brooding volcanic cones, glinting black-pebble beaches and the odd palm-spangled valley, Lanzarote feels like a giant color-shifting natural canvas. So it makes sense that the easternmost of the Canaries captured the heart of the locally born 20th-century artist and environmental campaigner César Manrique, whose impossible-to-miss influence and works await all over the island – from the whitewashed, sky-blue-windowed homes of coastal villages to the inimitable lava-field house at the Fundación César Manrique.
In recent years Lanzarote has grown into a tempting destination for art, design and architecture lovers, but it’s also packed with outdoor fun and has a blossoming, local-rooted food scene. You can’t miss the sprawling volcanic expanses of the Parque Nacional de Timanfaya, which played a key role in creating Lanzarote’s respected wine region, La Geria, where vines grow in mineral-rich volcanic-ash sands.
The beaches here rank among the Canary Islands’ loveliest, too, particularly around southern Lanzarote’s Papagayo nature reserve and wild Famara, which is one of Europe’s top surf spots.
Planning tip: Lanzarote, especially the north, has some of the most magical accommodation in the Canaries, including restored mansions like Hotel Palacio Ico and design-forward havens like Alava Suites.
La Palma is home to thrilling walking routes. blyjak / Getty Images
4. La Palma
Best island for nature, stargazing and offbeat hiking
It’s impossible not to fall for gorgeously green La Palma. Deservedly nicknamed “La Isla Bonita”, the entire island is a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, with steep rainforested hills and around 850km of hiking routes. Adventure sports abound, from kayaking to kitesurfing, and the pretty capital Santa Cruz de la Palma is crammed with elaborate 16th-century mansions.
La Palma’s most thrilling walking routes revolve around the unmissable 50-sq-km Parque Nacional de la Caldera de Taburiente, where a miles-wide depression was created by a volcano collapsing in on itself. And following the 2021 eruption of the Tajogaite volcano in the south of the island, local businesses have now bounced back, offering new volcano-viewing experiences in this devastated area.
La Palma also happens to be one of the globe’s prime locations for stargazing, and was named the world’s first Starlight Reserve back in 2012. Visiting the renowned Roque de los Muchachos observatory and contemplating the dark, clear skies on a guided stargazing experience with local experts (such as Astro La Palma) is a Canaries-wide highlight.
Planning tip: It’s best to factor in some flexibility for stargazing experiences, as weather changes can cause last-minute rearrangements.
5. Fuerteventura
Best island for beaches and water sports
A UNESCO Biosphere Reserve since 2009, the second-largest Canary (after Tenerife) lures visitors with its dazzling beaches, year-round sunny climate and raw lunar-like beauty. Wind-lashed and evocatively arid, Fuerteventura has the archipelago’s dreamiest sands: from the honey-gold dunes of the protected Parque Natural de Corralejo in the north, to the secluded, undeveloped expanses of Playa de Cofete on the island’s southern tip (catch it at sunset and you’ll see).
The island rivals Lanzarote’s Famara as the Canaries’ top surfing destination, with a laid-back wave-riding scene – for all kinds of levels – centered on the former northern fishing villages of El Cotillo (with surf-whipped sands below cliffs) and Corralejo (more resort-like). You can also go sailing, windsurfing, kitesurfing, paddle boarding and diving, or venture out on under-the-radar hikes, including around the Isla de Lobos nature reserve off Corralejo.
Local tip: Don’t miss Fuerteventura’s greener interior, home to the old capital Betancuria and some of the best restaurants on the island.
La Maceta rock pool on El Hierro island is just one natural sea pool to enjoy. trabantos / Getty Images
6. El Hierro
Best island for diving, walking and getting away from it all
Anyone who makes it to the Canaries’ small westernmost island quickly realizes they’re onto something special. Ringed by impenetrable volcanic cliffs, El Hierro has been a UNESCO Geopark since 2014 and feels much more off the beaten track than the rest of the archipelago, though it’s only a 40-minute flight (or 2.5-hour ferry) from Tenerife. This is largely down to its strong, ongoing efforts to limit tourism development and become the world’s first energy-self-sufficient island.
The last few years have seen El Hierro gently emerge on the travel map for Spanish visitors, but it’s still a place for remote adventure, local legends and traditional Canarian cuisine. A multitude of quiet hiking paths culminates in the 27km-long Camino de la Virgen, which weaves across the entire island following the trail of the four-yearly Bajada de la Virgen procession.
The jagged coast, meanwhile, is sprinkled with bewitching natural sea pools, such as La Maceta in La Frontera. And the glassy Atlantic waters off El Hierro’s southern shoreline have arguably the best diving in the Canaries, with the Mar de las Calmas marine reserve now slated to become Spain’s newest national park.
Planning tip: The best months for hiking in El Hierro are March to May (for flower-filled landscapes) and September/October (usually good weather).
Garajonay National Park on La Gomera island in Spain. RossHelen / Shutterstock
7. La Gomera
Best island for quiet hikes and green havens
Lushly forested hillsides, dramatic volcanic valleys and a string of pastel-painted villages make bohemian La Gomera a hiker’s dream. Despite its location just off southwest Tenerife, the island has, so far, kept large-scale tourism at bay, with most accommodation in small rural hotels, refurbished farmhouses or self-catering apartments.
The 40-sq-km Parque Nacional de Garajonay at the heart of La Gomera bursts with trails tracking through misty ancestral laurisilva forest, while elsewhere rewarding paths cling to sheer valley walls or meander along the blackened volcanic coastline. When you’re all hiked out, stroll around the colorful coastal capital San Sebastián de la Gomera and relax on its lovely shaded plazas, perhaps over classic specialities like potaje de berros (watercress stew), papas arrugadas (wrinkly potatoes) and fresh goat’s cheese. There’s also a mellow beach scene, mostly around Valle Gran Rey and Playa Santiago on the south coast.
Planning tip: La Gomera has a rich heritage of local crafts; Gomera Corazón Verde offers workshops on making mojo sauces, weaving palm-leaf baskets and more.
A peaceful afternoon in the village of Caleta del Sebo on La Graciosa. Maremagnum / Getty Images
8. Isla Graciosa
Best island for off-the-beaten-track beaches
Named the official eighth Canary Island in 2018, serene La Graciosa is just a half-hour ferry ride north of Lanzarote, but feels blissfully remote. On this small, low-lying island, wild golden-white beaches wrap around scorched volcanic cones, and the only way to explore is on foot, by bicycle or by jeep tour. It’s all part of the otherwise-off-limits Chinijo archipelago, a protected parque natural where you might spot dolphins, turtles and a rich variety of birds. Hike or bike over to isolated Playa de las Conchas or Playa Francesa overlooking Lanzarote’s cliffs, before relaxing at one of the easygoing seafood restaurants in the tiny sand-dusted “capital” Caleta de Sebo.
Planning tip: Most visitors explore La Graciosa on day trips from Lanzarote, but staying a night (or a few) is a perfect offbeat escape. From Órzola in northern Lanzarote, ferries run every half hour to Caleta de Sebo (and back) with Líneas Romero or Biosfera Express.
Not just a city of modernista masterpieces and nightlife that doesn’t quit, Barcelona has also earned a reputation as one of Europe’s beachiest urban playgrounds.
The thousands of blissful sunbathers lying out at a city beach for the first time might be unaware, though, that Barcelona’s nine consecutive crescent-shaped beaches are all completely artificial, built in anticipation of the 1992 Olympics. For a midday dip or nap on the sand, a visit to Platja de la Barceloneta, the city’s most popular beach, or local favorite Platja del Bogatell can be a perfect treat.
And you’d be wrong – very wrong – in thinking this is the best waterfront the Catalonian coast has to offer.
If you’re looking for a natural beach for a full or even half-day getaway from bustling Barcelona, consider leaving the city limits to discover beaches that any local would recommend. And you don’t even need a car to get to any of them.
Add some flair your beach day by catching a train for the 40-minute trip to Sitges. With over a dozen sandy beaches to boast about, this busy resort town has long been a favorite among Barcelonins and has a decades-long reputation as perhaps Spain’s most prominent LGBTQ-friendly destination. Jubilant displays come out in all colors during Pride Month in June and Carnaval in the winter. This is a town that loves a party, so if you’re looking for an in-between between good vibes and sand, check out the Beso Beach Club.
Detour: For a hike with a worthy reward, take the train one stop further down the line to Villanova i Geltru. Follow the trail up north toward Sitges and you’ll discover some less crowded beaches and calas along the way.
Stretching northeast from Barcelona lies a bevy of beach towns, from Badalona to Blanes. Everyone has their favorite spot; mine might be Canet de Mar, home to a stunning – and under-visited – architectural gem. Lluís Domènech i Montaner, the architect behind the floral wonderland that is the Palau de la Música Catalana, spent his summers in Canet de Mar – and left his mark on the seaside town. One of his most impressive works is the Castell de Santa Florentina, a medieval-style castle that he was commissioned by his uncle to refurbish, and a masterful meld of the Catalan Gothic and Modernisme styles. (Tours are limited, so you will need to buy tickets in advance to make sure you get inside.) After your visit, you can plop on the sand right just steps from the center of town, or walk a little bit north to find a wilder coast where submerged boulders form tide pools.
Planning tip: If you’re struggling to find elbow room on Barcelona beaches, there are beach towns all along the R1 line, which travels along the shore with sea views the entire way to Blanes.
For something a little more low-key and quieter than Sitges, hop off the train at Castelldefels, a dreamy, 5km (3-mile) stretch of water watched over by some seaside mansions worth gawking at (including the home of former Barça midfielder Lionel Messi). With a lot of wind and great waves, kite surfers love to play here. With the Mediterranean waves and the green hills of Parc del Garraf on either side, it’s also the perfect beach for long, peaceful walks.
Planning tip: Next door to this beach – near the Baix-Llobregat marshlands and close to the airport – is Platja de Gavà, another well-off area with a large, spacious and quiet beach. If things seem too busy in Castelldefells, you might have better luck here.
Between Castelldefels and Sitges, this beach features a row of adorable green-and-white houses (where fishermen once stored their gear) immediately catches the eye. Today, they are rentable homes and popular backdrops for anyone looking to add some vintage flair to their beach-day pics. The beach itself is less than 500m (1640ft) long and fills up quickly during the summer season – but its picture-perfect quality makes it too pretty to pass up.
Detour: Behind the beach, you can explore the trails in the hills of the Parc del Garraf to get up higher for a wider view of the Mediterranea, or venture out on a thru-hike that ends in Sitges. If you want a different kind of refreshment, Soho House’s posh Little Beach House property has a beach bar open to non-members.
The Costa Brava is the fabulous stretch of coastline between Barcelona and the French border. While its most famous town, Cadaqués, is at least a 3-hour drive away from Barcelona (one well worth making if you have a night or two to spare), the best way to sample the Costa Brava on a day trip is a trip to Tossa de Mar. The town itself has two stunning beaches and dramatic cliffs best explored by kayak or hiking trails going north. And you can’t leave without taking a stroll through the cobbled streets of the enchanting old town, perfectly framed by the turrets and towers of its medieval walls.
Local tip: The train does not run along the Costa Brava, so you’ll have to take the bus to reach Tossa de Mar. There are multiple direct departures from Barcelona’s Estació Nord; you can also save a few euros by taking the train to Blanes and boarding a cheaper bus from there.
