Archives February 2024

They say if you can ski out East, you can ski anywhere; and Vermont has a reputation for being icy. Still, those in the know love the Green Mountain State for its legendary powder days (it’s not just Colorado and Utah getting dumped on every winter), daredevil verticals, and chill, laid-back vibes.

One thing you won’t find out here is pretension. Skiers and snowboarders come to play and party, sometimes in equal measure, though there’s plenty of family fun to be had too. And even when Mother Nature isn’t blessing Vermont’s slopes with feet of fresh snow, everyone’s just happy to be taking the cold ride up to the top. Chances are, snowmaking is in full effect too, so even if the snow gods aren’t at the top of their game, you can bet fresh tracks are just around the bend.

Mount Snow

Vibes: Mount Snow is a reasonable drive from Connecticut, New York, New Jersey, Massachusetts and New Hampshire, so it sees its fair share of weekend crowds. Everyone’s here to maximize time on the mountain and not do much else, though there are a handful of hearty eateries along Route 100 and a little further afield in Wilmington, VT. 

Who’s it for: There’s plenty for beginners to enjoy on Mount Snow, and the ski school is always bustling on Saturday mornings, but experts won’t have to look far to access the mountain’s challenging terrain on North Face.

What to eat: A newcomer in town, Black Ember Grill currently serves the area’s tastiest food. Start with the Texas Twinkies (bacon-wrapped, stuffed jalapeno poppers) but save room for one of the signature smoker trays like the wood-fired brisket (juicy cut, natch) with buttery cornbread, pickles and a choice of sides. 

Where to après: Dover Bar and Grill (referred to as the D-bag by locals and regulars) is a dive with a pleasing smashburger. The game (this is a New England crowd, don’t forget) is always on, but the bar hosts karaoke nights, too.

Where to stay: In the years since joining Vail Resorts, the Dover area has seen an uptick in new accommodation options. We like Chalet 239, a cute boutique hotel with a welcoming common area and thoughtfully appointed rooms.

Where to rent equipment: Equipe Sport is the go-to spot for all your ski and snowboard needs. And the apparel options aren’t too shabby either. 

Pass and tickets: Mount Snow is a part of the Epic pass, which delivers a decent bang for the buck, depending on how often you ski. Day passes for $110 are also available.

Getting there and around: The free shuttle, the Moover, picks up along Route 100 and drops off at the mountain, but you’ll want a car to access the region as there is no train station in town, and ride shares are few and far between.

Killington

Vibes: Known as The Beast of the East, Killington, located in Rutland County, is Vermont’s largest ski resort. Its recent sale to a group of local investors who’ve pledged to reinvest 100% of profits into improving the skier experience is excellent news for powder hounds. You’re likely to encounter good energy at this massive mountain. With a nearby town that’s lively but not raging, the focus is on hitting the slopes.

Who’s it for: Killington has something for everyone from the strictly-blues skiing contingent to the freestyling snowboarders who flock to The Stash for in-the-trees adventure. 

What to eat:  Refuel with loaded nachos and a smashburger at The Rivershed Grill, a popular spot in town that also takes its Sunday brunch seriously. 

Where to après: If you love a good dive (who doesn’t?), The Lookout Tavern is the place to be after the last downhill. The U-shaped bar is good for groups – and noshing on some hot wings. Off of Northbrook trail there’s a yurt that also serves lunch and snacks. It isn’t open every day, though, so swing by on a midday run and if the lights are on, pop in! 

Where to stay: Every room is different at the freshly renovated Snowed Inn, but all stays include a hot, home-cooked breakfast, hot tub access (reservation system in effect) and ski storage.  

Where to rent equipment: Mom-and-pop shop First Stop Board Barn will deliver your gear to your hotel or Airbnb for a little extra. 

Pass and tickets: Ikon pass members who plan to ski multiple days will fare best as day passes start at $110 when purchased in advance online. 

Getting there and around: If you’re flying into Burlington, your best bet is to rent a car and then make the 90-minute drive to the mountain. Alternatively, Rutland Airport (just 30 minutes away) has three daily flights from Boston, and via Amtrak you can ride directly to Killington. That trip, though, includes a shuttle from the station in Rutland.

Stowe

Vibes: Charming and European-like, Stowe may well be Vermont’s top ski destination for international visitors, though it’s popular among U.S. residents too. 

Who’s it for: Skiers looking to improve their turns, riders who live for the shred and everyone in between. Stowe also has plenty to entice the non-skier; art galleries, artisanal boutiques, and a walkable, picturesque town center set this Vermont ski resort apart from its peers.

What to eat: After a day crushing Vermont’s highest peak, you’ll have more than earned the VT cheddar fries at Doc Ponds. Wash ‘em down with a draft beer or cider (majority from Vermont) and follow the starter with the half chicken or falafel plate.

Where to après: This is the home of The Alchemist, maker of the legendary IPA Heady Topper, which comes hand-pulled at the Beer Cafe (craft cans are also available to drink there or grab and go). A food truck or two is usually parked outside for when you’re feeling peckish. Lot Six Brewing is a new spot in nearby Jeffersonville. It’s worth a pit stop (open Wednesday to Sunday) and is run in part by the former director of brewing operations at beloved Zero Gravity. 

Where to stay: The Lodge at Spruce Peak, a Hyatt property, is the priciest place to stay in town, thanks to its convenient ski-in/ski-out access, but it is the place to stay if you’re seeking luxurious digs with the ski village at your doorstep.

Where to rent equipment: Stowe’s own ski shop selection of rentals is impressive and knowledgeable staff will ensure you get fitted with exactly what you need based on your skill level. If you fly into Burlington, stop along the way to Stowe at Ski and Snowboard Express in Richmond. They’ll hook you up with all you need for your time on the snow, and you’ll avoid the early morning on-mountain crowds. 

Pass and tickets: Epic passholders get unlimited ski days at Stowe, and single day lift tickets start at $110.

Getting there and around: Fly into Burlington and rent a car to make the roughly 60-minute drive to Stowe. Take advantage of the free shuttle to access the mountain or get to the mountain early for a decent parking spot near the gondola.

How to pack

Vermont gets cold. Very, very cold, but hey, all the better for making snow when it’s not coming down naturally. You’ll want to pack your warmest layers and don’t forget the hand and toe warmers. Après ski is generally super casual; cozy wool sweaters and beanies paired with jeans and winter boots are standard attire.

How to budget

Like most of the country’s ski regions, day passes in Vermont cost a pretty penny. Buy in advance online for a marginal savings or, if you’re planning on racking up enough days, opt for the Epic or Ikon pass.

When to ski in Vermont

Killington’s season often starts earlier and ends later than other Vermont ski resorts, in part because of its cold temps and dedication to snowmaking as soon as possible. In general, February and March tend to be some of Vermont’s finest months for skiing when the mountains have a solid base and snowmaking guns are still blasting.

Top tips

• Set your alarm. Vermont’s base areas can get crowded fast, and an hour or two after the lifts open is when lines are longest. Get to the mountain early for first tracks and to avoid a mess of people. 

• Don’t miss one of the greatest ski snacks of all time: a hot waffle from Waffle Cabin. 

• If you’re renting equipment, ask about demo skis and boards. These are typically higher quality and caliber than standard rentals and are worth the extra cost.

Dinosaurs and other ancient plants and animals inspire fascination, even though it might seem like we can only see them in movies like Jurassic Park. But did you know fossils are everywhere in North America? The US is covered in fossil sites featuring ancient critters, big and small. Some are found in deserts that were once ocean floors, others in busy cities where continents shifted millions of years ago.

Whether you’ve got fossil-obsessed kids at home or are a science geek yourself, here are some of the best places in the US to see fossils and investigate the prehistoric past firsthand.

1. Dinosaur National Monument, Utah

Located just across the Colorado border in Utah’s Unita Mountains, Dinosaur National Monument is considered one of the country’s most well-known fossil hot-spots. Here, dinosaurs like the Stegosaurus, Allosaurus, and Apatosaurus are embedded in rock at the Carnegie Quarry. If you head out to McKee Springs, you’ll find petroglyphs created by the Fremont indigenous group over 1,000 years ago, the ancestors of the Ute and Shoshone people who live in the area now. 

While the monument is a great place to learn about paleontology and see fossils in their natural state, fossil hunting and collecting are strictly prohibited throughout the park, including backcountry areas. This rule ensures the preservation of fossils for scientific research and public education. 

Where to camp nearby

There are six campgrounds in Dinosaur National Monument itself, but if you prefer a turnkey glamping site with a tent already set up, head to nearby Vernal, Utah to camp in Steinaker State Park or Red Fleet State Park.

2. Agate Fossil Beds National Monument, Nebraska

While dinosaurs may get all the glory, mammals take the stage at Agate Fossil Beds. The fossils here are about 20 million years old and include creatures such as the Moropus (part donkey, part anteater), the Dinohyus (a boar as big as a bison) and the Beardog (wolf and hyena-like). Walk the Fossil Hills Trail to see the quarries where some of the monument’s most important fossils were found in the early 1900s. Or hop onto the Daemonelix Trail to see the “corkscrew” homes of ancient dry-land beavers, the Palaeocastor. 

Please note fossil hunting and collecting are not allowed anywhere within the monument, as all fossils are protected by federal law to preserve the area’s scientific and educational value. 

Where to camp nearby

There’s no camping at Agate Fossil Beds National Monument, but you can find sites at Toadstool Geologic Park – where you can continue to learn about ancient fossils.

3. Dinosaur State Park, Connecticut

Dinosaur State Park is one of the largest dinosaur track sites on the continent. It is home to 2,000 dinosaur tracks made during the Jurassic period, 500 of which are housed in the Exhibit Center, a large dome at the park’s center. You can also explore trails outside with volcanic rock and plant life from the dinosaur era. In summer, buy a “mining rough” bag to pan for fossils and minerals, and staff can help you identify your finds. However, fossil hunting and removing any natural specimens outside of this are strictly prohibited within the park. 

Where to stay nearby

There’s no camping in Dinosaur State Park, just a day-use picnic pavilion. But you can find nearby vacation rentals, which makes this a great choice for those who prefer an indoorsy vibe.

4. Florissant Fossil Beds National Monument, Colorado

Since studies began in the 1800s at Florissant, scientists have discovered fossils of plants, insects and ancient tree stumps. Research projects are ongoing, so if you’ve ever wanted to visit a working fossil site, Florissant is about as close as you can get. Fossil enthusiasts can walk the trails to see petrified tree stumps and learn about the volcanic activity that shaped the land millions of years ago.

The site offers visitors the chance to view remarkable fossil specimens in the visitor center and on designated trails. Digging for and collecting of any natural or cultural feature is strictly prohibited at Florissant Fossil Beds National Monument. Fossils, rocks, flowers, pine cones, artifacts, etc. must remain here. There are fossil shops and a private quarry outside the monument for visitors wishing for a fossil of their own.

Where to camp nearby

There’s no camping in Florissant Fossil Beds National Monument, but you can find sites in Mueller State Park or Pike National Forest. A little further away is 100 Mile Overlook at 105 West Ranch, a private site where the tent is already set up with glamping amenities.

5. Big Brook Preserve, New Jersey

Big Brook Preserve is a great spot for finding Cretaceous-era shark teeth and fossils from when the ocean covered the area. Besides shark teeth, scientists have discovered bones and teeth from Mosasaurs (giant marine reptiles), Plesiosaurs (the inspiration for the Loch Ness Monster) and giant crocodiles. You can hunt for fossils along the creek beds, but remember the rules: only keep what would fit into a 12-ounce can or sandwich-size zip-lock baggie per day, don’t dig into the stream bank and hand tools up to 14 inches may be used. 

It’s important to note that fossil collecting is prohibited in certain protected areas within the preserve. Visitors must be mindful of guidelines and stick to designated areas where collecting is allowed. 

Where to stay nearby

Like Dinosaur State Park in Connecticut, there’s no camping near Big Brook Preserve – this isn’t the rural corner of Jersey. That said, there’s a bevy of great hotels in nearby Middletown like Oyster Point, a boutique spot with marina views.

6. Badlands National Park, South Dakota

The dramatic rock formations of Badlands National Park hold ancient animals of all kinds and have worn away enough for us to take a peek. The Oreodont (a bit like a capybara-donkey hybrid), the Nimvarid (known as false saber-toothed cats) and the Brontothere (ancient rhinoceri) all roamed these lands.

The visitor center features a Fossil Preparation Lab that you can visit seven days a week from 9:00am to 4:30pm from the second week in June to the third week in September. You can also hike, enjoy scenic drives and stargaze in the park. 

Fossil hunting is strictly prohibited within the park, and removing any natural artifacts is illegal. This protection ensures the preservation of fossils for scientific study and public enjoyment. 

Where to camp nearby

There is plenty of camping in Badlands National Park, but if you want to go further afield, Plenty Star Ranch is near Wind Cave National Park in Custer, South Dakota – giving you a two-for-one punch on parks.

7. Montour Preserve, Pennsylvania

The Montour Preserve Fossil Pit is known for its fossil pit, featuring a huge concentration of fossilized brachiopods, gastropods, trilobites and more. Visitors are advised to bring basic tools – a small hammer, safety goggles and a brush. Visit early in the morning before the rocks heat up in the afternoon sun. Note that fossil collecting is only allowed in the fossil pit itself. 

Where to camp nearby

Camping isn’t allowed at Mountour Preserve, which is managed by the Pennsylvania Game Commission. But nearby Barakah Heritage Farm offers backcountry camping if you bring your own gear – though a tent is available to rent if this is a one-time foray. It also offers the chance to turn your Montour Preserve visit into a broader educational experience with a hands-on farm stay optional add-on.

8. Caesar Creek State Park, Ohio

Caesar Creek State Park, near Waynesville, Ohio, is great for finding fossils. Visitors can dig in special areas to uncover fossils from ancient sea creatures that lived 450 million years ago during the Ordovician period. Keep an eye out for fossils of trilobites, brachiopods and horn corals in the rock. You don’t need any tools – just look around the limestone areas for these ancient finds! In order to collect fossils at Caesar Creek State Park you must first obtain a permit from Army Corps of Engineers Visitor Center by calling (513) 897-1050. 

Where to camp nearby

Reservations at the Caesar Creek State Park Campground can be made up to six months in advance. The campground has electric and full hookup sites available. 

9. Mineral Wells Fossil Park, Texas

Just an hour from Fort Worth, Mineral Wells Fossil Park is a little-known place where you can find fossils from the Pennsylvanian Period, over 300 million years ago. Visitors can discover crinoids, shark teeth and coral fossils for free here. It’s a perfect spot for anyone who wants a hands-on fossil hunt without large crowds. While the park is open to fossil collecting, it is only allowed in designated areas, on the surface, and with small gardening tools. 

Where to camp nearby

Lake Mineral Wells State Park & Trailway has campsites and screened shelters available. 

10. Sharktooth Hill, California

Near Bakersfield, Sharktooth Hill is part of an area managed by the Buena Vista Museum of Natural History and is a great place for fossil hunting in California. This site, dating back to the Miocene Epoch about 15 million years ago, has many fossilized shark teeth, whale bones and sometimes even dolphin skeletons. Guided digs let you explore these ancient treasures with expert help. Reservations are required. 

Note that fossil collecting is strictly prohibited in some regions of the site as it is a protected location. Visitors must stay within the designated collecting zones or join guided tours that provide access to approved fossil-hunting areas.

Where to camp nearby

While there is no camping available on site, the Kern River Campground is 12 minutes away and has 25 campsites across two sections available. 

11. Aurora Fossil Museum, North Carolina

The Aurora Fossil Museum is located in North Carolina and has a Florida fossil site near the Peace River. Across from the museum, visitors can search the fossiliferous pits for fossils from the Miocene period, all donated by the neighboring Nutrien Phosphate plant. Fossil hunting is only available in the pits, where remains of ancient sharks, whales, bony fish, and coral can be found. 

Where to stay nearby

While there are not many hotels by the museum, nearby Phoenix Farms Vineyard offers guest suites, RV/Camper stays and tent camping. You can also find hotels in the nearby towns of Washington and New Bern.

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Distinguished by three topographical regions – mountains, jungle, and arid coast – Peru is an ideal destination for outdoor enthusiasts as all roads seem to lead to a superb hiking trail.

Ascending the Andes at a steady pace brings you to exhilarating, high-elevation lakes of an azure hue while venturing to the Amazon region offers the chance to view an exquisite array of flora and fauna that are far from the main roads.

Finally, at a lower elevation and far less humid climate, the desert coast surrounding Lima’s capital has a few lesser-known gems that will delight hikers at every skill level.

Strap on your boots as we discover the best hikes in Peru – to Machu Picchu and beyond.

1. Inca Trail to Machu Picchu

The classic Peru hike

42 km (26 miles) one way, 3-5 days, difficult

Rugged and of high altitude, the ancient Inca Trail (Camino Inka) has become the most famous trek in Peru thanks to its spectacle of diverse landscapes and termination point at the famed Machu Picchu.

Starting on relatively flat terrain from Kilometer 82 of the Inca Trail, the classic route steadily ascends as it cuts through valleys, Andean villages and mountains, crosses rivers, and confronts smaller Inca ruins.

The final climb is up a set of stairs that lead to the Sun Gate (Inti Punku), from where Machu Picchu can finally be seen.

After exploring the site, most hikers spend the night in Aguas Calientes before returning by bus.

As a means of preservation, a maximum of 500 persons are allowed on the 15th-century trail per day, 300 of which are required guides and porters.

This hike needs to be planned months (if not a year) in advance for two main reasons: bookings for the Inca Trail tend to sell out quickly and, with an elevation that passes 4200m (13,780ft) above sea level, proper training is vital.

2. Lost City of Choquequirao Trek

Best off-the-beaten-path hike

45km (28 miles), 4-5 days round-trip, strenuous

Authentic and uncrowded, Choquequirao is the more challenging and isolated alternative to Machu Picchu for avid hikers seeking a route steeped in Inca history.

Located in the Apurimac Valley, this archaeological site (whose name can be translated to “cradle of gold”) is believed to be three times the size of its more famous sister city and can only be reached by foot (as opposed to the floods of tour buses that frequent Machu Picchu).

The starting point is the Capuliyoq pass in Abancay, from where trekkers descend into the Apurimac Canyon.

Terraced farmlands that trace the edge of the canyon’s namesake river eventually give way to an exhilarating shift from vertical desert to high-altitude jungle as hikers climb their way to the site.

Finally, after reaching 3050m (10,006ft) above sea level, you can revel in an eye-level view of the spectacular ruins.

Not even half of what archaeologists believe to remain of Choquequirao has been uncovered and yet the 12 visible sectors sprawled across three hilltops are incredible to take in – especially when accompanied by no more than a handful of other hikers, if any.

3. Lomas de Lúcumo

Best family hike

4km (2.5 miles), 2.5 hours round-trip, easy

As hard as it may be to believe, soft slopes of lush vegetation are just an hour’s drive outside of Peru’s desert capital, Lima.

Lomas de Lúcumo is the result of a peculiar climatic occurrence whereby ocean mist is trapped in the hills, springing verdant vegetation to life during the southern hemisphere’s winter months (June to September).

Navigate the sea of green following the trail known as Los Guardianes, the shorter of two marked loops (the other trail is the 6.5km-long Los Lúcumos).

Spot caves with interesting markings, a rock climbing area, and quite a bit of wildlife (if it’s not too crowded). Try to visit during the middle of the week as the trails tend to fill up on weekends with students and families.

Located in the district of Pachacamac, this outdoor excursion can be paired with a visit to the Pachacamac archaeological site and a typical chicharrón (fried pork) sandwich in the nearby town of Lurín.

4. Marcahuasi

Best camping trip from Lima

8km (5 miles), 6-8 hours, difficult

Surreal topography and rock formations make Marcahuasi a magical overnight camping destination if visiting from Lima.

The trailhead is a six-hour drive from the capital city and while the distance of the hike is not so long and the trail itself well marked, the true challenge is overcoming the altitude.

Standing at 4000m (13,123ft) above sea level, Marcahuasi is a naturally formed stone forest with curious carvings of human faces and animals.

It is considered by many locals to have healing powers and the view of a clear night sky full of stars is undeniably awe-inspiring.

With a quick elevation gain, it is important that hikers of all levels are acclimatized before ascending to Marcahuasi. Horses and donkeys can be rented when paying the entrance fee of five Peruvian soles (S5) at San Pedro de Casta.

5. Laguna 69 Trek

Best day hike in Huaraz

13km (8 miles), 5-6 hours round-trip, moderate

Located in Huascarán National Park, Laguna 69 is one of the most picturesque places in Peru – if not all of South America – and yet only a handful of tourists that visit the Andean nation make the time to visit it.

With snow-capped mountains in the backdrop, the still turquoise water is absolutely stunning and well worth the climb.

The scenic trek begins after a two hour drive from the city of Huaraz in north-central Peru. Livestock and cattle, cascading waterfalls, and quaint meadows will come and go, but the towering peaks of Cordillera Blanca are steady company.

The trail gently eases into an ascent for most of the route but the last 30-40 minutes are quite a climb.

The surface elevation of Laguna 69 is over 4600m (15,091ft) above sea level, so be sure to spend a day or two acclimatizing in the city of Huaraz beforehand.

6. Full Circuit to Gocta Waterfalls

Best day hike in the northern Amazon

15km (9.3 miles), 6-8 hours round-trip, moderate

One of the tallest waterfalls in the world, Gocta was only rediscovered and brought to international attention in 2002.

Trickling down from the cloud forest of northern Peru’s Amazonas Region, the two-drop waterfall is 771m (2530ft) tall and is hugged by lush flora.

To witness the lower and upper falls, begin the trek at the trailhead in San Pablo, a short bus ride away from Chachapoyas (where most travelers stay). Well-marked, the trail leads past small villages and coffee plantations as well as plenty of viewpoints of canyons and deep valleys.

The hike to the upper fall is more scenic but the complete view of Gocta seen from the base of the lower fall is unparalleled. The loop finishes in Cocachimba from where transportation back to Chachapoyas can be found.

The best time to complete the full circuit to Gocta waterfalls is between April and June, just after the rainy season has ended and before tourism picks up.

7. Sangalle trek to Colca Canyon

Best exploration of one of the deepest canyons in the world

8km (5 miles), 2 days round-trip, moderate

The world’s second-deepest canyon, Cañón del Colca is cradled by desert hillsides six hours outside of Arequipa city and swooped over by the impressive Andean condor.

There are various trails that lead down the terraced hillside and back up the 3400m-deep canyon (11,155ft), connecting small pueblos along the way.

Day hikes from the nearby Colca Valley town of Chivay down to the hot springs are certainly enjoyable, but the thrill of camping in the bed of the canyon should not be missed if time permits.

The Cabanaconde–Sangalle–Cabanaconde route is a well-trodden yet scenic path as the village tucked in the depths of Colca provides hikers with comfortable overnight accommodations and refreshing swimming pools.

This is not an extensive hike and can be done without a guide. It is possible to complete it in one day, but the two-to-three-hour climb from Sangalle Oasis (2150m/7053ft above sea level) back up to Cabanaconde (3280m/10,761ft) is best done in the cool morning hours. Either way, bring lots of water and sunscreen.

8. Cordillera Huayhuash

The ultimate mountain trekking experience in Peru

120km (75 miles), 12 days, strenuous

Four decades have passed since the publication of Joe Simpson’s incredible mountaineering story Touching the Void and adventurists around the world continue to visit Peru to create their own (hopefully less dangerous) narrative of this epic route.

Azure glacial lakes, Andean peaks blanketed in the purest snowfall, and a surprising diversity of flora and fauna paint the scene of this near two-week hike that dabbles 4000-5000m (13,123-16,404ft) above sea level – such natural beauty has gained the Cordillera Huayhuash trek a reputation as one of the top hiking circuits in the world.

Due to the extreme length and altitude of this trek, it’s rare to pass people other than the settlers who have made a home in the mountain chain, often accompanied by alpacas or llamas. Therefore, it is strongly recommended to go with a guide regardless of experience level.

Acclimatize in Huaraz before heading off to Cuartelwain (a five-hour drive), from where each consecutive day will average six hours of hiking until finishing in Llámac. This circuit is best completed during the dry season (May to September).

It’s not for nothing that the Egyptian obelisk anchoring Catania’s central piazza supposedly possesses magical powers to temper Mt Etna. Sicily’s second-largest city lives at its mercy. The active volcano – Europe’s largest – buried the city in boiling lava in 1663 and has erupted at least 80 times in the last 100 years. In August 2024, an angry Etna shot a gigantic eruption cloud 10km (6 miles) high in the sky, spewed filthy black ash across cars and sidewalks in the city, and shut down both airports (again) on the Italian island. Little wonder, then, that climbing Mt Etna is no walk in the park.

Despite the hordes that flock to the volcano every year, hiking here is a serious undertaking. The smoke rings that puff gently into a bluebird sky occasionally from one of its multiple craters – four pock its 3369m-high (11,953ft) summit and there are 300-odd lateral craters – might hint at romance, but the reality is far less pretty. The footpath of lava rocks that I picked my way across with a volcanological guide back in July is already long gone, drowned in a new fireball sea of red lava that crashed down from Etna’s peak just weeks after I left. “We built this path by hand, rock by rock, after the last major eruption in December and will no doubt build many more,” my guide Mirto explained, handing me a fist-sized nugget of lava to feel, still toasty warm seven months later.

Etna is clearly not a mount to mess with. A typical mountain combo of high altitude and capricious weather, uniquely coupled with volcanic activity and a healthy dose of Sicilian hijinks, makes advance planning essential. Here’s how to tackle hiking on Mt Etna safely, soak in its otherworldly moonscapes, and feel the pulse of planet Earth in real-time.

Consider the season and weather

What with sizzling-hot summer temperatures and high-season crowds, Sicily in August is never a brilliant idea. Snow can linger on Mt Etna’s summit well into April and return in November, making the shoulder seasons – April, May, September and October – the best months for hiking. Spring and fall days are pleasantly warm and sunny, there are fewer travelers, and pea-green cushions of springtime Saponaria blaze purple on Etna’s fertile lower slopes.

Book the right guide

Hiking on Mt Etna is strictly regulated. Tramping up an active volcano is not without risk or danger, and it is forbidden to venture above 2500m (8202ft) without an authorized Etna guide. A mind-boggling choice of companies offering guided hikes exists. Check your guide belongs to the Collegio Regionale delle Guide Alpine e Vulcanologiche (Regional College of Sicilian Alpine and Volcanology Guides) before parting with any cash.

I spent two exhilarating days hiking up to Mt Etna’s gigantic summit craters (off-limits since the August 2024 eruption), one with highly experienced alpine guide and backcountry skier Mirto Monaco from Gruppo Guide Alpine Etna Sud (Etna’s oldest guiding association, created in 1804). The other day was spent with environmental biologist and PhD student Giulia Bacilliere, one of seven female volcanologist guides in Sicily, at Gruppo Guide Etna Nord. The gems they shared – the jasmine-perfumed yellow Etna broom that thrives between rocks, the diverse snake species protected by Etna’s eponymous national park – magnified my awe and wonder tenfold.

Guided treks always depart at 8:30am or 9am, returning mid-afternoon before the weather changes.

Warm clothes and study footwear are essential

Forget beach attire – approach the Sicilian volcano in the same way you would a mountain in the Alps. Dress in layers, long trousers and wear sturdy closed shoes, preferably proper walking shoes or boots. Even when it‘s hot at lower altitudes, it’s cold and windy up top. Pack a wind jacket, warm headgear and gloves in your day pack. Ditto for sunscreen, sunglasses (against dust as well as sun glare), snood or scarf (to protect the face from dust and gas stenches) and water. If you wear contact lenses, bring glasses – dust levels are extreme.

Any missing gear, including hiking boots, warm jacket and trekking poles for the less sure-footed, can be borrowed directly at guides’ huts. Most trek rates include kit rental.

Choose between Etna Nord and Etna Sud

You can approach Mt Etna two ways: from the wilder north (closest to Taormina, 30 miles northeast) or more-developed south (closest to Catania, 24 miles southeast).

Etna’s northern slopes, known as Etna Nord, entice hardened hikers after a feral, no-holds-barred experience. Guided treks leave from Piano Provenzana, a dot of a ski resort at 1800m (5905ft), comprising little more than a solitary row of wooden huts sheltering trekking guides. The serpentine drive up – from small town Linguaglossa (30 minutes), built in 1556 on an ancient lava stream, or the attractive village of Giarre (45 minutes) – winds through lemon groves, vineyards, beech forest and surreal steel-black fields of diabolical, frozen-in-time lava flow. Look out for the occasional old stone house half-buried in lava flow, harder than marble once cold and impossible to shift or clear away ever.

The mainstream tourist crowd favors Etna Sud. Hikes up the busier southern slopes start from Piazzale Rifugio Sapienza (1910m/6626ft), a sprawling square named after its eponymous refuge (restaurant and rooms), with a chaotic jumble of souvenir huts, sports shops and fast-food joints. This is the spot to hop aboard Mt Etna’s lone cable car, up to a panoramic 2500m (8202ft). From here, when volcanic activity allows, non-hikers can board a purpose-built 4WD bus to creep further uphill and explore the surreal lunar landscape with an accredited guide on board.

Getting there can be a challenge

It’s not easy without your own wheels. There is no public transport to/from Piano Provenzana (Etna Nord), but Go Etna offers reliable minibus transfers from Taormina and Catania, and works with top-drawer guides from Gruppo Guide Etna Nord once in situ. Book Go Etna tours at least a few days in advance in season.

To get to Etna Sud, one daily AST bus trundles from Piazza Giovanni XXIII in front of Catania train station to Rifugio Sapienza (2 hours, €6.60). Be warned: buying a bus ticket online does not secure a seat on the always-rammed bus, departing from Catania at 8:15am and illogically arriving well after guided treks have left for the day. Should there be a spare seat (rare, even if you rock up an hour in advance of departure), the driver sells tickets. The return bus, equally packed, leaves Rifugio Sapienza at 4:30pm.

In Catania you’ll most likely end up fighting off taxi drivers hawking aggressively for business among the thongs of disappointed bus hopefuls. A return ride by taxi from Catania (1 hour) should cost no more than €120 for four passengers, including waiting time while you hike. Negotiate hard, only pay half the fare up front, and save the driver’s telephone number in your phone before striding out on Mt Etna.

Plenty of organized tours depart directly from downtown Catania to Etna Sud. Most will pick you up and drop you off at your hotel.

What to expect on the hike

Brace yourself for high drama in spades. Trek routes are dictated by volcanic activity – 120 seismic cameras, satellites and sensors on Etna’s slopes measure and record every last tremor and physical movement, making it one of the world’s most monitored peaks.

The kaleidoscopic landscape is incredulous and varied, whichever trail you follow. Think: tramping across barren black lava fields, scraping away ash to uncover last winter’s snow perfectly preserved beneath, gawping at gas-spitting fumaroles and tens of extinct lateral craters, running down dusty ash hills with not a care in the world (and shoes full of grit once you arrive at the bottom). The rainbow of earthy hues – fire red, ocher, black and gold – is breathtaking, as is the frequent gale-force wind and stench of sulphuric gas in volcanic deserts at higher altitude.

Most guided treks are bookended by a ride in a 4WD vehicle (Etna Nord) or cable car (Etna Sud) to reduce the climb; some duck into lava caves. Guides provide protective helmets which must be worn at all times. A reasonable level of fitness and agility is required for higher-altitude hikes, which typically cover 6km (3.7 miles) in four to five hours.

How to hike Mount Etna with children and inexperienced hikers

Families with very young children and inexperienced hikers don’t need to miss out. The volcano’s lower slopes around 2000m (6560ft) are easy to walk to from Etna Sud’s Rifugio Sapienza and promise high drama too. From Ristorante Crateri Silvestri, a flat and easy 1km (0.6-mile) footpath loops around the top of the extinct, 19th-century Silvestri Crater. Across the street, another signposted path (25 minutes) curves steeply uphill, past the restaurant La Capannina, to a crater formed by a 2001 eruption.

One option to minimize walking is to hop in the cable car. From there, ogle in awe at the mind-blowing myriad of lateral craters polka-dotting Etna’s sprawling slopes below, grab a drink with a lunar desert view at the top-station cafe, then cruise back down without flexing a muscle.