January 2024 – healthyng

Wildlife and Nature

Copy my trip: Hotel Xcaret México in Playa del Carmen

Lonely Planet destination editor Melissa Yeager recently traveled to Playa del Carmen to take in the relaxing natural beauty of one of its ecoresorts. Here, she shares some tips and insights for anyone planning a similar trip.

Inevitably there are destinations and hotels you come across that you immediately think, in the words of Liz Lemon: “I want to go to there.”

That feeling washed over me when I first saw the images of the Hotel Xcaret swirling on social media several years ago. I combed through dozens of prospective dates, but it was booked solid and I had to let the dream of swimming through the turquoise waters of Xcaret’s stalactite-gilded underground rivers drift from my mind.

The first Xcaret (pronounced Ish-cah-ret) opened as a natural eco-park in 1990 in Playa del Carmen, a little more than an hour’s drive from Cancun International Airport. Architect Miguel Quintana Pali originally intended to build his dream home on the property, but as he started clearing the land for construction, he discovered cenotes, underground rivers and Mayan ruins on the site. Instead of keeping it for himself, he developed it into Mexico’s first eco-park and a tribute to his country and culture.

View looking up from the cenote in the river swim at Xplor Park at Xcaret © Melissa Yeager / Lonely Planet

In recent years, the popular Grupo Xcaret’s portfolio has grown to include five theme parks and three luxury all-inclusive resorts that provide not only all your food, drink and activities on the property but also theme park entrance as well.

So when Xcaret invited me to check out the property, it was an immediate yes. But I wondered: would it live up to the hype? Would the theme parks be natural wonders or “Disney-fied” versions of the real thing? Here’s what I experienced.

Where did you stay? What was the vibe?

I stayed in the original Hotel Xcaret México resort – the largest of the properties with 900 rooms sprawled over five buildings, all recessed delicately among the lush river and beachfront landscape.

River-level rooms at Hotel Xcaret México in Playa del Carmen allow guests to dive from their balcony and swim the river running through the resort © Melissa Yeager / Lonely Planet

With that many rooms, you would think the resort would feel crowded. And it does in the lobby, where you get a sense of just how many people are staying at this resort. However, the frenetic movement of people checking in and baggage delivery is confined to that area. Once you enter the stunning greenery and waterways of the resort, you often forget that this is a large place. It has a chic atmosphere and plenty of quiet places to relax.

A chapel on a hill overlooks the ocean at Hotel Xcaret México © Melissa Yeager / Lonely Planet

The resort tries to match its guests to appropriate rooms by looking at the ages of people staying in the room. Often, they’ll group families with smaller children near each other and in places with activities suitable for those ages (there’s a wading pool with a nearby kid-friendly buffet and a bar with a view of the pool for parents). Meanwhile, they have an adults-only building (along with their adults-only property Hotel Xcaret Arte) with an exclusive rooftop pool boasting a bar and an Instagram-worthy clear tunnel to swim through.

Xcaret is a luxury, five-diamond resort with a price tag to match, ranging from US$650-1000 a night. But, before sticker shock sets in, I’d encourage you to do some math here to see if it is within your budget. Entrance fees for the parks and all activities on the resort (paddleboarding, kayaking, floating the river) are included along with your food, beverages (including alcohol), room service and transit to/from the airport.

Best thing you ate?

A couple sitting under lanterns in the bar area of Cantina restaurant in Hotel Xcaret México © Melissa Yeager / Lonely Planet

The food at the resort is all-inclusive, and there are 35 restaurants available ranging from carts in multiple locations replicating Mexico’s beloved street food scene to a Mercado with handmade, fresh tortillas.

But one restaurant in particular stood out – HA’ (Maya for water). A creation of chef Carlos Gaytán, its seven-course tasting menu is newly minted with a Michelin star and is open to the public. The upcharge required to dine here is one of the few you’ll encounter in the resort.

Escamoles (insect caviar) at HA’ in Hotel Xcaret México in Playa del Carmen © Melissa Yeager / Lonely Planet

It costs US$150, but if you love fine dining and wine, it’s an incredible experience considering the price point. Every round – the Wagyu, the Beignet, the Filet Mignon – is a culinary delight. However, the standout on the menu for me was the escamoles (insect caviar). Well-seasoned and tasty, it’s unique to this destination and a great introduction to insects if you’ve never tried them before.

Stalactites above blue waters in the river swim at Xplor Park © Melissa Yeager / Lonely Planet

What was your favorite experience on the trip?

By far the rivers around the resort and in the Xplor park. It was the most tranquil experience. Suit up in a life jacket (and helmet at Xplor) and float. In Xplor, I loved the serenity of floating in the turquoise, transparent waters while admiring the stalactites decorating the ceiling overhead. The river was outdoors at the resort and floating was a great way to cool off on a hot afternoon and notice little details – a waterfall, a waterslide, hammocks in caves. It was a truly enchanting experience.

View of the dock where the *trajineras* (gondolas) leave for the Xoximilco floating experience at Xcaret © Melissa Yeager / Lonely Planet

What was the most touristy thing you did?

Xoximilco. That’s not a typo. The “ch” has been replaced by the Xcaret “X” and yes, the evening, party-atmosphere boat float is inspired by the real floating gardens of Xochimilco, the UNESCO World Heritage site in Mexico City. The park does not try to be the same as the real Xochimilco (how could it be?) but aims to replicate the cultural and communal spirit of the original.

Having experienced both, I think the Xoximilco experience gives that same vibe of heading out on the trajineras (gondolas) for a day of celebration, but these are tailored to a luxury guest experience with much fancier vessels than the ones in CDMX – think coolers filled with beer, sodas and premixed cocktails and a three-course meal as well as the boat being cleaned between stops. Still, the experience replicates the warmth of community, music and dancing that makes the original such a memorable occasion.

The boats float to different stations hosting Mariachi and traditional Mexican music, while your guide encourages you to dance, eat and drink. If you’re traveling as a group, it would be a great way to kick off the trip.

What is the one thing that you did not expect?

So many joyful moments of sweet surprises dotted around the resort and parks. In the lobby, there’s a cart with popsicles. While floating in the river surrounding the resort, we discovered caves with hammocks and a hidden water slide. Relaxing at the pool, suddenly a band playing the xylophone appeared. In the Xenses theme park, we emerged from one of the attractions to discover a lemon tree where you could get a small cup of crisp, cool limonada to enjoy. These delights are spread around the resort like confetti, so make sure to keep your eyes open.

Guests can swim in the rivers surrounding the Hotel Xcaret © Melissa Yeager / Lonely Planet

What was the handiest thing you packed?

Water shoes, an SPF shirt and a waterproof case for my phone. All came in useful multiple times. The SPF shirt freed me from having to endlessly reapply sunscreen while in the park.

My packing regret is not bringing some fast-drying shorts to wear at the theme parks. You’re moving from water slides and underground rivers to zip lines, and wearing shorts instead of swimsuit bottoms would have been much more comfortable.

Best tip for someone who wants to plan the same trip?

I have a few to share. First, book in advance. The property is proud of its high occupancy rates so plan ahead to get the dates you want.

Second, make your reservations for the spa and specialty restaurants early, as these fill up. Don’t worry, there are plenty of spots to eat, but if you want to get into one of the specialty places, think ahead.

Finally, take advantage of all the selfie cameras positioned around the resort. Scan your bracelet and the prepositioned camera will snap your photo. Then, when you go to your room at the end of the night, turn on the TV and the resort has a channel where you can view your photos. Grab a glass of wine and laugh with your travel companions at all your silly snapshots from the day.

Melissa stayed at Hotel Xcaret México and visited the related parks on an invitation from the resort. Lonely Planet does not accept freebies in exchange for positive reviews.

Romance

Treasure islands: the natural wonders of the Seychelles

Situated in the middle of the Indian Ocean, 400km northwest of Madagascar and over 1000km from the East African coast, the Seychelles is an ancient archipelago of 115 islands. While most travellers arrive trailing confetti and are content to just fly and flop on some of the world’s finest beaches, the islands possess natural wonders that hold far greater value.

Granite rock formations on Anse Source d’Argent beach, the island of La Digue, Seychelles. Simon Dannhauer / Getty Images

Thousands of years of evolutionary isolation have created this treasure map of miniature worlds in the Seychelles, each with its own unique biological capital and habitats found nowhere else on the planet. When General Gordon of Khartoum visited in 1881 he returned to London claiming he had found the original site of the Garden of Eden – specifically, the Unesco World Heritage-listed Vallée de Mai on the island of Praslin, where a prehistoric palm forest shelters the legendary coco de mer.

A man stands beneath a coco de mer palm tree. He's looking up to its fronds that splay out and fille the sky. A very lush and verdant image. — The towering coco de mer palms sway in the depths of the Vallée de Mai. Justin Foulkes / Lonely Planet

Vallée de Mai, Praslin

A walk through the valley is a surreal experience akin to natural time travel. Here everything is supersized and the silence is sepulchral, broken only by bird calls from rare endemic species like the black parrot and the crimson-crested blue pigeon. When a breeze blows, one can hear the rasp of giant fronds high in the canopy as the 20 to 30m-high palms sway like metronomes beneath the weight – up to 40kg – of their voluptuous, double-nutted coco de mers. You half expect a dinosaur to appear out of the Rousseau-like canvas.

Local guide holding coco de mer seed, lush trees in the background. — A local guide in the Vallée de Mai holds the much sought-after coco de mer seed, a natural wonder that can weigh up to 40kg. Justin Foulkes / Lonely Planet

That the forest survives at all is a nothing short of a minor miracle. A second smaller indigenous forest on the nearby island of Curieuse nearly succumbed to 18th century botanical poaching, when the nut – worth its weight in gold at the time – was pillaged by British traders who subsequently set fire to the palms to ensure the highest price for their precious cargo. With its red soil largely laid bare the uninhabited island now provides a breeding centre for giant tortoises, which can weigh up to half a ton and appear like boulders beside the walking trails that crisscross the island.

A man descends a rock outcrop into a dense forest which carpets the hills in the distance — Hiking the trails within Morne Seychellois National Park opens up a world of interesting and rare flora. Justin Foulkes / Lonely Planet

Morne Seychellois National Park & Silhouette Island

Other rarities fill the Morne Seychellois National Park on the island of Mahé. To find relict species you need to hike the signposted trails up to the peaks of Trois Frères, Copolia and Morne Blanc where screw pines and koko maron meet granite boulders sculpted by a millennia of rainfall on to which cling critically endangered jellyfish trees and carnivorous pitcher plants. It’s highly likely that Morne Seychellois is home to the total world population of both the jellyfish tree and bwa-d-fer, the ironwood tree of which there are just 40 mature plants left in existence.

Deadly nature: looking like an ornate, greeny-yellow vase with a rolled tear-shaped rim and a leaf-like lid propped open, the carnivorous pitcher plant lies in wait for its next victim. — The innocuous-looking pitcher plant is actually carnivorous. Justin Foulkes / Lonely Planet

Dominating the view from the northwest of Mahé is the mist forest of pyramid-shaped Silhouette Island. The third largest island in the archipelago, it is considered a biodiversity hotspot with 93% of its area designated a national park and its surrounding waters a marine reserve. Most of the Seychelles 80 or so endemic trees and flowering plants can be found here along with the world’s only colony of sheath-tailed bats.

Pioneering ecological restoration in the Seychelles

The near natural state of the islands is thanks not only to their isolation, but stringent development controls. Aside from the 150 people who regularly reside on Silhouette, there are just two hotels. Awareness of the need to preserve the archipelago’s unique ecology has always been high here, but its becoming an increasing priority with new developmental and climate change pressures. As Dr. Frauke Fleischer-Dogley at the Seychelles Island Foundation explains, a key plank in the organisation’s new environmental thinking is the restoration of ecosystem integrity.

To see the success of this approach, you need only visit the island of Félicité. As part of their lease, the Six Senses have actively committed to restoring the ecology of the 264-hectare island. In order to do this, island ecologist Steve Hill has already spent nine years clearing invasive species such as coco plum so that endemic flora can re-establish itself and native fauna, such as the black paradise flycatcher, can return. Steve is even hopeful for the collection of ironwood saplings in his nursery. If he can nurture even a few of them to maturity, it will be an act of inestimable environmental value.

George, one of the oldest giant tortoises, stands and lifts his head as a local guide crouches beside him in the forest and strokes his long neck — A guide saying hello to George who is thought to be one of the eldest giant tortoises in the country. Justin Foulkes / Lonely Planet

Nature’s own islands

Steve’s bold promise that Félicité will be ‘nature’s own island’, is not a hollow boast given the work he’s already done on other islands such as Cerf and Frégate, the latter now home to the largest population of Seychelles magpie robins, fodies and blue pigeons, and the second largest population of giant tortoises – over 2200 – in the archipelago. Celebrities and royalty consider Frégate one of the world’s ultimate eco-hideaways. Who can argue with them when Robinson Crusoe was filmed here in 1988?

Other environmentally-minded island custodians such as the Seychelles Island Conservation Society, Bird Life International, Wilderness Safaris and Mason Travel have undertaken equally valuable restoration work on Aride, Cousin, North and Denis islands respectively. Take a trip to either Aride or Cousin and you’ll be amazed by woodlands thick with hundreds of thousands of land and sea birds, including the huge, oceanic stealth-bomber, the frigate. Beside the multitude of birds on Cousin, a globally significant population of Hawksbill turtles (subjects of the world’s longest running monitoring programme) heave themselves ashore between August and April to lay their eggs.

Hawksbill sea turtle swimming in Indian ocean in Seychelles — A globally-significant population of hawksbill turtles nests in various islands of Seychelles. Alexander Shalamov / Getty Images

The Coralline Islands

Already successful in creating parks and reserves on nearly half of Seychelles’ land area, the government are now working to protect 30% of the 1.3 million sq km marine territory. The brain corals, purple-lipped clams and giant cowrie shells threaded with brightly coloured fish around Curieuse and Île Cocos create underwater gardens every bit as beautiful as those on land. Hawksbill turtles are frequent visitors here, as well as on Denis Island, which sits at the northern end of the Seychelles plateau where the surrounding deep waters are dense with big game fish such as dog-toothed tuna and galatea.

But the marine spectacle of the inner granitic islands pales in comparison to the outer, coralline islands which lie scattered 250-1200km southwest of the Mahé. Here in an impossibly blue sea, surrounded by coral reefs and rich, warm currents, marine life abounds. The lagoon at the centre of St Joseph Atoll supports a huge population of stingrays as well as giant blue mud crabs. While Alphonse and St Francois are considered by many to offer the best saltwater fly fishing in the world – their waters are teeming with bonefish, milkfish, giant trevally, lemon sharks, tiger sharks and groupers so huge they can fit a man’s head in their mouth.

Most remote of all is the almost mythic island of Aldabra, an island of such environmental value that it forms a baseline for scientists and conservationists around the world who visit to see what the world once looked like. Here the marine biomass is an extraordinary six tonnes per hectare, as opposed to the half-tonne that is present in the marine reserves around Mahé, and the island is the only place on the planet where reptiles – over 150,000 giant tortoises – still dominate the ecosystem. A brass plaque, installed in 1982, when the atoll was finally recognized by Unesco, provides a fitting accolade: ‘Aldabra, wonder of nature given to humanity by the people of the Republic of Seychelles’.

Paula Hardy travelled to Seychelles with the support of Seychelles Tourism Board. Lonely Planet contributors don’t accept freebies for positive coverage.

Adventure Travel

8 stunning day trips from Lucerne, Switzerland

Encircled by mountains of myth and sitting astride the shores of its eponymous lake of bluest blue, Lucerne is every bit as gorgeous as it was back in the 19th century when Goethe, Wagner and Queen Victoria eulogised its beauty.

Slow travel comes naturally here, with boats, trains and cable cars breezing across the lake and up to nearby Alpine heights. From the birthplace of the nation to sky-scraping glaciers, here are our picks for the best days out from Lucerne.

1. Float on the jewel-colored waters of Lake Uri

Travel time: 1 hour

Switzerland heart in every possible sense of the word, Lake Lucerne’s southernmost arm, Lake Uri, is its most ravishing. At times as narrow as a fjord, Lake Uri’s jewel-colored green-blue waters give way to forested cliffs and peaks that rise sheer and rugged.

Cruise these waters and you’ll glimpse Rütli Meadow, hallowed birthplace of the Swiss Confederation as the spot where the Oath of Eternal Allegiance was signed in 1291. Nearby is the Tellskapelle, a little chapel ensconced in woods, where the apple-shooting hero and Swiss rebel William Tell is said to have leaped to safety from the boat of his Hapsburg captor, Gessler.

Myths abound, too, at the Schillerstein, a near 30m-high natural obelisk jutting up above the lake. Its inscription pays homage to Friedrich Schiller, the author of the play William Tell.

How to reach Lake Uri: Boat is the way to go to really see Lake Uri. Take SGV’s regular ferry service from Brunnen to Flüelen (44 minutes). Trains link Lucerne to Brunnen (46 minutes) and Flüelen (one hour).

Swiss view on the Jungfrau with Swiss chalet and flag — Swiss view on the Jungfrau, Bernese Alps. Micaël Chevalley/500px

2. Hike waterfalls and high-Alpine moors in Meiringen

Travel time: 1 hour

Tucked away in the eastern corner of Switzerland’s Bernese Oberland region, Meiringen has a phenomenally beautiful backyard, with hiking and cycling trails leading to wild valleys, waterfalls and high-Alpine moors.

Get an early train for time to see both of its big-hitting natural wonders. First up is the 250m-high Reichenbach Falls, which plummets over sheer, wooded cliff faces with a deafening roar. You can see how author Arthur Conan Doyle thought it the perfect backdrop for a dramatic finale: in The Final Problem, he pushed both Sherlock Holmes and Dr. Moriarty over the precipice here.

The Aare Gorge is just as riveting, with tunnels and galleries wending past milky-blue torrents and limestone overhangs.

Stay for more than a day to delve deeper into the Hasli Valley – to see the Triftbrücke, Europe’s highest (100m) and longest (170m) suspension bridge, dangling precariously over the Trift Glacier, for instance, or the waterfall-laced glacier gorge of Rosenlaui.

How to reach Meiringen: Meiringen is a 50-minute drive south of Lucerne via the A8. There are hourly trains to Meiringen (1 hour 10 minutes).

Cogwheel train passing mountain landscape of Mount Pilatus in the Swiss Alps, near Lucerne — Cogwheel train passing mountain landscape of Swiss Alps.Red train on cog railway between Mount Pilatus and Alpnachstad near Lucerne. iStockphoto/Getty Images

3. Climb Mt Pilatus on the world’s steepest cog railway

Travel time: day-long trip

Mountains and valleys seem to ripple into infinity from the 2128m peak of Mt Pilatus, where the restless ghost of Roman prefect Pontius Pilate is said to roam. As the legend goes, his corpse was thrown into a lake at the summit and he has haunted these parts ever since – hence the name.

Reached by the world’s steepest cog railway since 1889, with a gradient of 48%, the mountain is an easy and insanely scenic day trip from Lucerne. Getting here would have been more of an effort back in the 19th century when Wagner waxed lyrical about Pilatus’ views and Queen Victoria trotted up here on horseback. But the exhilarating views on the walking trail are little changed: reaching across the lake, deep into the Swiss Alps and as far as Germany’s Black Forest on clear days.

How to reach Mt Pilatus: From May to October, you can reach Mt Pilatus on a “golden round-trip” day excursion, a combination of boat, cogwheel railway, cable car and bus.

4. Witness a blazing sunrise or sunset from Mt Rigi

Travel time: 1.5 hours

Puckering up between lakes Lucerne and Zug, the 1797m peak of Mt Rigi is well known for its blazing sunrises and sunsets. Turner was so smitten with the outlook and the singular quality of the light that in 1842 he painted the mountain in watercolors at three different times of day (Blue Rigi, Dark Rigi and Red Rigi).

Europe’s oldest mountain railway – celebrating its 150th anniversary in 2021 – hauls you to the summit, where the view is extraordinary, stretching across both lakes to Mt Titlis and the glaciated peaks of the Jungfrau massif. On clear days, you can see 24 of Switzerland’s 26 cantons. There’s terrific high-level hiking up here in summer on 120km of marked trails, as well as low-key skiing, snowshoeing and sledding in winter.

If you’d prefer a swim or massage with a sublime view, head over to the Mario Botta-designed Mineralbad & Spa Rigi Kaltbad.

How to reach Mt Rigi: Frequent trains run to Vitznau (one hour) and Goldau (32 minutes), where you can connect with cogwheel railways to Rigi Kulm (32 minutes and 44 minutes respectively).

Tandem paragliding in Swiss Alps. Silhouettes of paragliders and beautiful mountains. Extreme sport, adventure sports. — Have a go at tandem paragliding in Swiss Alps, or maybe just watch the spectacle from a mountainside. Petr Pohudka/Shutterstock

5. Head to Brunnen for paragliding, sailing and kitesurfing

Travel time: 45 minutes

Cradled in the folds of jagged mountains, where Lake Lucerne narrows as it turns sharply south, Brunnen’s quayside is quite the Alpine dream. Turner was so impressed by the view while sojourning here that he painted The Bay of Uri from Brunnen in 1841. When the Föhn wind sweeps down from the peaks, conditions are ideal for sports on and above the water: from sailing to paragliding, windsurfing and kitesurfing. Should you fancy a walk instead, hook onto a section of the 35km, two-day Swiss Path around Lake Uri.

Not only the surrounding peaks offer knife-edge perspectives. Victorinox hails from these parts and the Swiss Knife Valley Museum tells you all about it, with a fascinating romp through the history of knives. The highlight, however, is the chance to build your own Swiss Army Knife (a process of just 15 minutes).

How to reach Brunnen: Brunnen is a 40-minute drive south of Lucerne via the A4, or take one of the regular trains (45 minutes to one hour).

Swiss Alps
Alps, Central-Switzerland, Green, Lake, Mountains, Schweiz, Switzerland, Uri, Vierwaldst0ttersee, Vierwaldstättersee, Vierwaldst‰ttersee, clouds, sky, swiss, landscape, horizon, nature, outdoors, shadow — Zip to Engelberg for some alpine hiking with stunning views. Georg Infanger/500px

6. Try winter skiing or high-altitude hiking at Engelberg

Travel time: 45 minutes

As if cupped in celestial hands, Engelberg (literally “Angel Mountain”) wings you straight to Alpine heaven with its ragged backdrop of glacier-streaked peaks punching well above the 3000m mark. When the flakes fall in winter, skiers and boarders descend on the resort, eager to make fresh tracks in off-piste powder. In summer, these mountains offer mile upon joyous mile of high-altitude hikes.

The icing on the cake is 3238m, glacier-topped Mt Titlis, Central Switzerland’s tallest mountain, home to the world’s first revolving cable car, which soars above the deeply crevassed ice. With Alps as far as the eye can see, views from the top are staggering, especially if you brave the Cliff Walk, Europe’s highest suspension bridge. Get an early start to avoid the glacier is at its busiest.

How to reach Engelberg: Engelberg is a 40-minute drive south of Lucerne via the A2. There are hourly fast trains linking Lucerne to Engelberg (43 minutes).

Visitors in wooden deck chairs above snow-capped mountains on the sun terrace atop Stanserhorn Mountain — Snow-capped mountains on the sun terrace atop Stanserhorn Mountain. Shutterstock

7. Ride the funicular and summit Stanserhorn

Travel time: 25 minutes

Flinging up to the south of Lucerne, Stanserhorn is one of the easiest and quickest ways to get high above the lake. From the 1898m summit, an intricate tapestry of mountains, lakes, fields and forests unfurls. Getting there is half the fun, involving a quaintly old-fashioned ride in an 1893 funicular to Kälti, where the double-decker CabriO cable car takes over, swinging up another 1100m in just 6½ minutes. This is the world’s first cable car with a roofless upper deck and it can get mighty breezy up top.

At the summit, there are plenty of big-view hiking trails and hang-gliding and paragliding when conditions allow. The Stanserhorn Rangers give the inside scoop on everything from wildflowers to where to spot eagles and marmots.

How to reach Stanserhorn: Stanserhorn is a 25-minute drive south of Lucerne via the A2. Frequent trains make the same journey in 13 minutes. From here, a funicular rises to the summit from mid-April to early November.

8. Join pilgrims visiting Einsiedeln from afar

Travel time: 1 hour

When Lucerne is rammed on summer weekends, Einsiedeln, hidden away at the end of a valley and framed by gentle wooded hills, makes a peaceful day trip. Pilgrims come from afar to this small town, which is Switzerland’s answer to Lourdes. According to legend, the Bishop of Constance tried to consecrate the original monastery in AD 964, but was interrupted by a heavenly voice, declaring: “Desist. God himself has consecrated this building.”

Whether or not you believe in miracles, the 18th-century Klosterkirche abbey church is magnificent, with its opulent frenzy of frescoes, stucco, marble, and gold swirls. Pilgrims pray before the tiny statue of the Black Madonna. For a view over the abbey to the hills beyond, trudge up to the Statue of St Benedikt.

How to reach Einsiedeln: Einsiedeln is an hour’s drive east of Lucerne via the A14. There are twice hourly trains (1¼ hours).

Adventure Travel

The best ways to travel around in Denmark

Venture beyond the cool capital Copenhagen and explore more of Denmark. Historic towns, fairy-tale castles, charming islands and sandy beaches are among the many places you could visit, and with relatively short distances and excellent transport links, luckily, that’s easy to do.

Most of Denmark’s cities are compact, walkable and great for biking. Not only is it fun and fast, it’s a great way to immerse yourself in a quintessential part of Danish culture. Meanwhile, public transportation is straightforward to navigate. From electrified trams and metro lines to battery-powered boats and buses, it’s affordable, reliable, and often green. Trains are the best way to travel cross country, but there are also long-distance and local bus networks, as well as convenient but more expensive car rentals.

From bikes to buses, here’s our advice for the best ways to get around Denmark.

Family and their bikes at Stubbekobing Havn (harbour) waiting for the ferry — Denmark has an extensive ferry network. Daniel Villadsen

Ditch the car for pedal power

It’s often joked that Danes are born on the back of a bike. Cycling isn’t just a hobby here; it’s a way of life. Nine out of ten people own a bicycle, and across Denmark, there are over 12,000km (7456 mile) of cycling routes, with 400km (250 miles) of bike paths in Copenhagen alone. The Nordic nation ranks as one of the world’s most bicycle-friendly countries, with excellent infrastructure such as special cycle superhighways and traffic lights, bike-only bridges, and even trash cans that are angled for cyclists to use while on the move. Half of Copenhageners commute by bike, and in the capital, it’s often the quickest way to get around.

For visitors, pedaling about on two wheels is not only enjoyable but also sustainable, and helpfully much of the country is rather flat.

Bike rental is widely available

Rental shops are plentiful, most of the bigger cities have local bike-sharing schemes and many hotels lend bicycles to guests for free. Meanwhile, the rental app Donkey Republic operates in several locations across Denmark, including Copenhagen, Aarhus and Roskilde, with its distinctive orange bikes that can handily be picked up and dropped off in different places.

A woman riding a cargo bike in Nyhavn, Copenhagen. — Biking is one of the best ways to get around cities like Copenhagen and Aarhus. Viggo Lundberg

Ride the railways for longer distance journeys

Taking the train is recommended for longer journeys and is a great way to travel beyond the capital. There’s a good network of regular train services connecting Denmark’s major cities and smaller towns. Early-bird discounts or “orange” tickets are available when booking well ahead. Note you need to reserve places for bikes and strollers in advance. However, you can take your bike anytime for free on Copenhagen’s S-tog (suburban rail) network.

Tip: It’s recommended to purchase a seat reservation. Trains are a very popular mode of transport, and carriages soon fill up, so it’s worth paying the small extra fee to guarantee a spot, especially for longer journeys.

Download some travel apps in advance

For the best routes, times and prices across trains, metros, buses and ferries, Rejseplanen is a must for travelers. Similarly, Denmark’s train provider, DSB, has an easy-to-use booking app for purchasing digital train tickets. It also now allows you to tap in and out at stations using your phone rather than a physical railcard. The DOT app is another go-to for buying on-the-day tickets.

Get a Rejsekort travel card

To save money on fares, it’s well worth getting a Rejsekort. You can use it across all public transport nationwide, and it’s cheaper than purchasing a paper ticket. Tourists can purchase a Rejsekort Anonymous card for 80kr ($12 USD), which can be topped up on the go. Do remember to both tap in and tap out against the Blue Point at the ‘check ind’ (check in) signs in transport stations. Press your card against the machine and wait until you hear the beep.

There’s a great bus network too

Buses are a convenient option in Denmark’s cities, and even smaller towns and countryside villages are well connected by regular services. Use Rejseplanen to find routes, timetables and fares, and purchase tickets online or use the Rejsekort travel card.

For long distance intercity journeys, FlixBus is an affordable alternative to taking the train.

Cobblestone street in Denmark with bikes parked outside homes. — If you need to rent a car, you can go through an agency, use a car-sharing app or borrow one directly from its owners. Shutterstock

Car rentals are convenient but pricey

Hiring a car is a flexible and convenient way to get around, but it can also prove pricey in Denmark. Unlimited mileage often isn’t included, while the cost of fueling up and expensive bridge tolls can soon add up.

All the main airports have car rental desks, and bigger cities also have downtown offices; however, the best deals are usually found through international or third-party booking sites like Autoeurope, Kemwel and Expedia.

In major cities like Copenhagen and Aarhus, you can use car-sharing apps like Green Mobility, which rents EVs by the minute or per hour. For smaller places, GoMore is widely available and works like an Airbnb for car rentals, where you can book and borrow private vehicles directly from their owners.

It is easy to drive an electric car in Denmark

Going electric is a greener and increasingly popular option on Danish roads, especially for shorter distances. These days, plugging in and charging up is a relative breeze, with an ever-growing number of charge points dotted around the country. Most are provided by Eon and Clever, and you’ll need to down their apps for access.

If you do need a cab in Copenhagen, you can reduce your carbon footprint by booking with taxi firm Viggo, which only uses electric cars, or Drivr, which has a zero-emission fleet running on green hydrogen.

Bikes parked on a ferry in Denmark — Denmark’s ferry network connects many islands to the mainland and extends to international destinations including Sweden, Germany, Iceland and Norway. Freya McOmish, Scandinavia Standard

Domestic flights aren’t usually necessary

Despite its small size, Denmark has several airports, but for most journeys, flying isn’t really necessary. Among the most popular domestic routes, SAS and Norwegian fly between Aalborg and Copenhagen, while DAT connects various regional airports with Bornholm, a Danish island in the Baltic and a popular summer getaway. Taking off from the water right in the heart of Copenhagen’s harbor, Nordic Seaplanes operate the short hop to Aarhus. Meanwhile, the Faroe Islands, a Danish territory in the Atlantic, are two-hours away by air and Atlantic Airways and SAS operate several flights daily.

Explore the Danish coastline by ferry

Denmark’s coastline is punctuated by well over 400 islands. While Zealand, Funen and Bornholm, are large, there are many charming little isles well worth exploring and among the loveliest are Ærø, Fanø, Læsø, and Samsø. Many islands have ferry connections, and sitting on the top deck while enjoying the sea breezes and blissful scenery is truly a delight. Booking could be simpler, though. In most cases, each route has its own individual booking website.

Major routes include fast hydrofoil that links Jutland with Denmark’s main island of Zealand, and the large express boat that sails to Bornholm from Ystad in southern Sweden. International routes also link Denmark with Norway, Sweden, Germany and the Faroe Islands. If you’re heading to Ærø, check out the battery-powered ferry, Ellen, which charges up with electricity from wind and solar.

Tip: Book well in advance if you want to take a car. Spots fill up fast in summer months when Danish and German holidaymakers head to the islands. Getting on board as a foot passenger usually isn’t a problem.

Accessible travel is good on trains and buses in Denmark

With accessibility improving all the time, Denmark is a destination that shouldn’t hold you back. Trains and buses do cater for wheelchair-users and stations are fitted with ramps and lifts. Conveniently the elevators at Copenhagen’s metro take you straight from street level to the platform. In more rural areas, however, the older ferries are sometimes less well-equipped.

Beaches

Celebrating Sustainable Spain

Sun-dappled coastlines, soulful creative arts, famously terrific gastronomy – welcome to one of the globe’s most-loved travel destinations, now also an emerging leader in developing sustainable tourism.

In recent years, Spain has been taking important strides to put sustainability at the forefront of its long-established tourism industry, which pulled in more than 85 million visitors in 2023. This Mediterranean-hugging beauty has been working hard to spread tourism well beyond high season for years, encouraging off-season travel while also highlighting lesser-known regions and pushing forward a wealth of sustainability-driven projects.

Destinations all over Spain are now striving to achieve more balanced tourism models, such as the Balearic Islands, which have introduced a wave of circular tourism initiatives. Several Spanish cities have also outlined plans to achieve climate neutrality by 2030, including Madrid, Valladolid, Vitoria-Gasteiz, Zaragoza and Valencia, which was crowned European Green Capital for 2024.

In other news, flight-free transport across Spain is booming, from electric urban buses to brand-new train routes; creative and adventure projects are helping to revitalize rural regions; more and more travelers are choosing to sidestep the high season; and single-use plastics (such as straws, cutlery and cups) have been banned in Spain since 2023 as part of EU-wide regulations. And the Canary Islands are investing massively in water power and wind farms, with wind power growing by almost 140 percent in recent years. No surprise then that Lonely Planet named Spain one of our 2024 Best In Travel destinations for sustainability.

Embark on a trip from Atocha Station in Madrid and you know you’re doing your part to travel sustainably; The Costa Verde Express train offers passengers breathtaking views of the Cantabrian Sea and lush landscapes between Ferrol and Viveiro. Emilio Parra Doiztua for Lonely Planet; James Jackman for Lonely Planet

Flight-free travel

Spain has one of the largest high-speed rail networks in the world, with reliable, locally popular trains whizzing across most of the country in just a few hours. Getting from, say, Barcelona or Málaga to Madrid in under three hours is a breeze, though there are also plenty of more leisurely routes where soaking up the scenery at a slower pace is half the fun. These days, train travel across Spain is a joy as you watch the landscapes morph from endless olive groves into quiet sprawling plains before glimpsing jagged peaks in the distance from the comfort of your seat. Book ahead to secure your desired route and bag the best prices.

The national electric-powered rail operator Renfe (which runs the incredibly on-time high-speed AVE trains) now shares space with other low-cost rail companies such as Ouigo and Iryo, which means prices and route options are kept refreshingly accessible. Over the last few years, a wave of fresh itineraries has opened up rail travel even more, benefitting both local communities and travelers. New AVE services now run to/from Murcia on the east coast, between Madrid and Oviedo (Asturias) since 2023 and also between Madrid and various cities in Galicia.

And for anyone traveling to the beautiful, beachy Balearic Islands off Spain’s east coast, a fleet of convenient ferries connects mainland ports like Barcelona, Valencia and Dénia with Palma de Mallorca, Ibiza and beyond.

The Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela is the last stop for many travelers who made the pilgrimage on the Camino de Santiago. After a journey for some of more than 500 miles, the joy at the finish line is palpable. James Jackman for Lonely Planet

Low-impact explorations

Heading out hiking is one of the most rewarding and low-impact activities you can enjoy in Spain. Not only will exploring on foot take you to often-overlooked rural areas, but it also inevitably leads you off the beaten track – whether you’re walking through the mountainous wilds of the Spanish Pyrenees in Catalonia’s lake-dotted Parc Nacional d’Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici or weaving between remote villages in the rugged Alpujarras near Granada.

Even those walking the famed Camino de Santiago all the way to Galicia can swap the classic-but-busy Camino Francés for lesser-known routes such as the Camino del Norte (which tracks across Spain’s green north) or the wonderfully rewarding Camino Primitivo from Oviedo (said to be the original Camino).

The Vías Verdes network in Spain consists of abandoned railway lines that have been converted into recreational trails for cycling and hiking. Blake Horn for Lonely Planet

Cycling in Spain is hugely popular too, from gentle routes along the celebrated Vías Verdes – disused train lines that have ingeniously been reimagined as cycling, walking and horse riding routes – to epic mountain-biking adventures for experienced riders. Many of Spain’s most-loved cities have also thoroughly embraced cycling culture, with ever-expanding networks of bike lanes and other handy resources.

Some bike-share programs are designed mostly for residents (rather than visitors), but local bike-hire operators abound. Best-known for urban adventures on two wheels is sunny Valencia, where cycling among the lush greenery of the former Túria riverbed – now transformed into the Jardín del Túria park – ranks among the city’s favorite pastimes.

Hiking the Ruta del Cares is an unforgettable experience in the heart of the Picos de Europa. Coke Bartrina for Lonely Planet

Protected spaces

Much of Spain remains wild, natural and undeveloped, home to a richly varied collection of officially protected landscapes that burst with outdoor adventures. Spain was a European pioneer in creating its first national parks all the way back in 1918 when Aragón’s Parque Nacional de Ordesa y Monte Perdido and the Parque Nacional de la Montaña de Covadonga (the predecessor to the northern Parque Nacional Picos de Europa) were both established. Now there are more than 1,600 officially protected natural spaces spread across the country, including 16 beloved parques nacionales (national parks) and more than 150 parques naturales (natural parks).

Spain’s conservation efforts are importantly benefitting local wildlife too. Take the threatened quebrantahuesos (bearded vulture), which has seen such an astonishing recovery in recent years that you might now glimpse it soaring high above the Pyrenees. Then there’s the Iberian lynx, which over the last couple of decades has been almost miraculously brought back from the brink of extinction in Andalucía. With luck, lynx can occasionally be spotted again in the magical Parque Nacional de Doñana on the Huelva-Cádiz border or in Jaén’s remote Parque Natural Sierra de Andújar.

Food and drink in Spain is rooted in fresh, seasonal and often organic produce. Like these tapas and beer in Madrid. Blake Horn for Lonely Planet

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Fabulous food (and wine)

It’s no secret that Spain is one of the world’s culinary capitals, from ever-growing numbers of cutting-edge Michelin-star restaurants to laid-back kitchens serving beloved regional recipes that have been cooked locally for centuries. Many of the country’s top restaurants are rooted in fresh, seasonal and often organic produce. As of 2024, Spain has 49 Green Michelin Stars, which are awarded to gastronomic ventures putting sustainability front and center. Alternatively, seek out restaurants that follow a Slow Food ethos, especially in Catalonia, where the movement is particularly lively and takes in several superb Barcelona kitchens.

Wherever you go in Spain, all things food often start with the local market, whether it’s a buzzy neighborhood mercado or a pop-up farmers market drawing producers from surrounding towns. Even in the most popular cities (like Barcelona and Madrid), a visit to the market is almost guaranteed to offer a glimpse into neighborhood life while also introducing you to all kinds of seasonal specialties and flavors. And in Spain’s booming world of wines, many vineyards are now turning to organic and biodynamic growing and reviving traditional regional grapes that exist only here.

On your Spanish food adventures, don’t miss the chance to meet some of the country’s famed small-scale producers. These gastronomic businesses are often family operations going back centuries, so while tasting that sliver of tangy cheese or wafer-thin slice of jamón, you’re also directly supporting the local community. Many Spanish queserías (cheese farms), for example, now offer tours, tastings and even expert-led classes for visitors to learn the craft themselves.

Parador de Alárcon in Castilla-La Mancha was built more than 1,300 years ago by the Visigoth King Alaric. It has been repurposed into unique accommodations. Jack Pearce for Lonely Planet; Blake Horn for Lonely Planet

Green stays

Restored ancient castles, peaceful self-sufficient farmhouses, stylishly converted mansions – this is just a taste of Spain’s blossoming responsible accommodation scene, which often involves sensitively reviving evocative ancient buildings. Today a growing number of properties all over the country are working hard to become more sustainable on both an environmental and social level, including Spain’s state-run Paradores chain. Specializing in bringing new life to beautiful historical buildings (along with a few bold contemporary creations), Paradores has been leading the way in green accommodation, with all of its accommodations running exclusively on renewable energy since 2018.

But there’s also a dazzling choice of inspiring independent places to stay with a responsible ethos across Spain, whether you’re looking for a low-key family-owned guesthouse driving rural tourism, a bioclimatic design property by the sea or a stylish agroturismo built from a centuries-old finca. Seek out accommodation that revolves around positive-impact initiatives like on-site gardens for restaurant ingredients, ensuring all amenities are plastic-free, connecting guests with surrounding communities and employing local staff.

Enjoy sangria on Barceloneta Beach without the crowds in low season. Blake Horn for Lonely Planet

Loving low season

There’s never been a better time to savor Spain in all its off-season beauty. Skipping the peak tourism months and exploring during shoulder or even low season means you’ll automatically be sidestepping most of the summer crowds (and prices). Winter months like January and February can be richly rewarding for quieter city breaks that still involve seaside lunches in the sun (just ask anyone living in Barcelona or Valencia!), while spring is ideal for hiking and other outdoor pursuits, with wildflowers blooming all over the Spanish countryside. Autumn beach breaks are blossoming, too, with enjoyable swimming in the Mediterranean perfectly possible in September and October (sometimes even later in the year).

On the flip side, more and more businesses are now staying open throughout the traditional low (winter) season, and off-season transport connections are being constantly improved.

The Mirandaola Ironworks is one of the oldest foundries in the Basque Country. Workers here still wear outfits from the 16th century. Blake Horn for Lonely Planet

Cultural riches

Home to one of the world’s highest numbers of UNESCO-recognized tangible and intangible assets, Spain is a leader in cultural preservation efforts. Remarkable Roman ruins, Islamic-era castles, medieval cities and Modernista mansions are just a few of the architectural treasures that jostle for attention as you travel across the country. Some of Europe’s finest museums and galleries, meanwhile, await discovery in culture-loving places like Bilbao, Barcelona, Madrid, Málaga and Mallorca.

Over on the cultural stage, flamenco – awarded Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity status by UNESCO back in 2010 – ranks among Spain’s most renowned performance arts. This feisty fusion of dance, song and guitar is best experienced in its Andalucian heartland and birthplace, around Cádiz, Jerez and Seville, though there are also great flamenco scenes in Granada, Madrid, Barcelona and beyond.

Flamenco, a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity designee, ranks among Spain’s most renowned performance arts. It's just one of many cultural riches preserved in Spain. — Flamenco, a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity designee, ranks among Spain’s most renowned performance arts. It’s just one of many cultural riches preserved in Spain. Blake Horn for Lonely Planet

And wherever you go across Spain, there’s a strong, proud heritage of regional artisanal crafts – basketry, ceramics, needlework, shoe-making. Picking up pieces directly from local artisans or independent shops showcasing their work is a great way to support these ancient crafts, many of which date back centuries. Some contemporary artisans are now putting their own spin on things with fresh designs, while an ever-growing number of creative classes and workshops gets you behind the scenes with the experts themselves to learn the secrets of these distinctively Spanish arts.

Most Spanish destinations have been improving accessibility, including the Recinte Modernista de Sant Pau. Blake Horn for Lonely Planet

Access for everyone

In recent years, most Spanish destinations have been making huge efforts to improve accessibility, especially in the worlds of travel, tourism and hospitality. Many local tourist boards now offer wheelchair-accessible guided tours or adapted itineraries for travelers with disabilities. Almost all of Spain’s 15 UNESCO-designated cities have created accessible routes for travelers to explore their historic centers, from riverside Córdoba (with its splendid Islamic architecture) to lovely Cáceres (home to one of the country’s most mesmerizing old towns).

Major monuments are also upping their game with all kinds of accessible experiences, including Madrid’s marvelous Museo del Prado and several unmissable Gaudí buildings in Barcelona, such as Casa Batlló. Tactile experiences, descriptive tours and sensory activities are all part of the package.

Explore ruins in Mérida, or take in Torre Bujaco in Cáceres. Anyone who loves Spain has their own favorite offbeat pocket of the country. Blake Horn for Lonely Planet

Exploring off the beaten track

Anyone who loves Spain has their own favorite offbeat pocket of the country, whether it’s a hidden velvety beach on the Costa de la Luz or a wonderfully green wind-lashed cape on the Bay of Biscay. Stepping beyond the big sights and top tourism destinations is your ticket to Spain’s richly diverse soul, so devoting a trip entirely to a lesser-known region or perhaps combining a popular city with a deep dive into quieter surrounding areas always feels immensely rewarding.

Among our top under-the-radar picks is Extremadura, hugging the Portuguese border, which remains little-known among international visitors despite its stash of cultural, culinary and natural wonders. Enamored Spaniards rave about the region’s exquisite jamón, scattered timeworn villages, remote cherry-filled valleys and dynamic inland cities, which include some of Spain’s finest Roman ruins in the regional capital Mérida.

Wildlife and Nature

When you should visit Portland, Oregon

People who love Portland, Oregon will tell you to embrace the rain.

A reliable condition in the city from October to June, the rain is what makes the city so green, coating the trees and sidewalks in moss – and it’s why flowers bloom here nearly year-round. A good rain jacket and waterproof walking shoes are all you need to make the most of a rainy day. And when the sun finally comes out, the city sparkles.

So should you visit for the rain or sun? At any time, you’ll find cozy coffee shops and cocktail bars, endless culinary delights, muddy or dry trails shaded by thick evergreen trees, and neighborhoods bursting with personality. Elements of every season in Portland contribute to the city’s moody vibe and vibrant personality. So whichever season you pick, you’ll likely want to make a return visit during another.

A bicyclist rides down Tom McCall Waterfront Park on a wet spring day in Portland, Oregon. Blossoming cherry trees on to the left and the Willamette River to the right. — Spring in Portland can be wet, it’s true – but all that rain brings glorious flowers. Joel Carillet/Getty Images

Catch a rainbow of blooms from March to May

While you’ll see blooming flowers at surprising times of the year in Portland, mid-March marks the most dramatic explosion of colors – namely, when the city’s beloved cherry trees come to life. The most famous and dramatic stretch of these blossoms is in downtown Portland, along the Willamette River, where the pedestrian path suddenly and briefly gets draped in heavy, pink branches. But these aren’t the only showstoppers in town.

Visit Washington Park’s Japanese Garden for another popular yet serene cherry-tree tableau. Thanks to Portland’s close ties with its sister city, Sapporo, and a stunning 2017 expansion by world-renowned architect Kengo Kuma, this garden is a true homage to Japanese culture. Washington Park is also home to Portland’s famous International Rose Test Garden, which starts budding in April. (The bushes fully bloom come June.)

Crystal Springs Rhododendron Garden in Southeast Portland is a lesser-known but delightful place for bloom-spotting, with nine acres’ worth of rare species of rhododendrons and azaleas. These hearty shrubs can open as early as February, and peak in late April. Hoyt Arboretum also sees springtime blooms.

Portland’s beloved donut shops deliver equally colorful results. An iconic pink box of Voodoo Donuts will add another pop of color to your snaps of the cherry blossoms. Donut connoisseurs will point you to other shops that focus on freshly baked and perfectly flavored fried pastries, like Pip’s Original Doughnuts and Chai, Blue Star and Coco Donuts.

The Portland Rose Festival serves as the unofficial kickoff to summer. The festivities comprise some 60 events starting in late May, including dragon-boat races, carnival rides, concerts, art shows and parades, including the iconic Grand Floral Parade through Portland’s Central Eastside.

An overhead view of people walking along a path through ferns and redwoods at Hoyt Arboretum, Portland, Oregon, USA — In the warm, dry summer months, Portland’s urban forests and parks await exploration. Shutterstock

June to September is best for hiking and outdoor dining

Summer in Portland is a smorgasbord of color and activity, which takes place on peaceful hiking trails, in verdant parks and all over lively city streets. After an inevitably long, wet spring, people are ready to be outside.

Prepare for crowds in this peak tourist season. Patios fill up fast. Lines form for favorite summer spots like Salt & Straw ice cream. And parking lots overflow at entrances to Forest Park, the largest wooded urban park in the country, where you can hike on over 80 miles (129km) of trails.

There are countless chances to enjoy nature on long walks in the city, including the short ascent up Mt Tabor, the city’s dormant cinder cone. Take the stairs to the top for a sweeping view of the city, then wander down Hawthorne Blvd, where you’ll find plentiful dive bars with patios, including the delightfully tacky Space Room Lounge.

Farther to the southeast, head to Powell Butte Nature Park for gently rolling hiking trails and views of the many mountains that surround Portland, including Mt Hood, Mt St Helens and Mt Adams. Tryon Creek State Natural Area on the edge of southwest Portland is home to 665 acres of forest, 14 miles (22.5km) of hiking trails and 3 miles (5km) of paved bike trails.

For post-hike refueling, the main Southeast thoroughfares of Belmont, Hawthorne and Division brim with food trucks, picnic tables, breweries and patios for enjoying Portland’s local fare alfresco. In the northeast, head to Alberta or Mississippi for more concentrations of food, drink and outdoor seating to enjoy. Or you can always get something to-go and head to Laurelhurst Park with a blanket for a meal among the massive Douglas fir trees.

A man in a winter hat paddles in a giant pumpkin in water as crowds look on on a sunny fall day — The Giant Pumpkin Regatta – which is exactly what its name implies – adds a silly, quirky touch to fall in Portland. Wesley Lapointe/AFP via Getty Images

September to October is spooky season

Portland loves Halloween, and appreciation for spooky season starts as soon as schools return from summer break. At Topaz Farm on Sauvie Island, just north of Portland, you’ll find copious pumpkins, a corn maze and a great selection of food and drinks that can be enjoyed while chickens run around your feet.

Portland’s “weird” side is on full display at the annual West Coast Giant Pumpkin Regatta in Tualatin, just southwest of the city. Expect costumed paddlers navigating – yes – giant pumpkins in a series of races, while onlookers enjoy food and additional entertainment.

These months are also a great time to check out Portland’s independent movie theaters, like the historic Hollywood and Bagdad – both stunningly ornate spaces where you can order local beer and food to enjoy during a flick.

A man walks down an aisle of bookshelves brimming with titles for sale at Powell’s World of Books in Portland, Oregon, USA — Cold winter nights mean curling up with a good book – and Portland’s world-famous Powell’s World of Books will have a title for you. Shutterstock

Embrace the dark with books and holiday lights in November and December

Portlanders love their books – especially in the wintertime when the drizzly darkness sets the mood for curling up with a great read. If you’re looking to stock up, the world-famous Powell’s City of Books is a go-to any time of year. In November, the Portland Book Fest brings the stories off the page with author talks, lectures and classes.

The darkness also sets the stage for lights. Visit the Oregon Zoo in December for ZooLights, a dazzling display of holiday sparkle. This event is especially popular with families; kids love to visit the animals as they marvel at the millions of lights on display all over the zoo grounds.

February is craft beer time

No matter when or where you’re exploring Portland, you can expect access to the country’s most famous beer scene, with some 80 craft breweries within the city limits. Come February, the beer enthusiasm gets turned up a notch with the arrival of Oregon Craft Beer Month. Breweries across the state host special events and release new batches – and for one February weekend, beer lovers can join in the nerdiest of events, at Zwickelmania, when breweries across Portland open their doors on this day for behind-the-scenes tours and brewer talks. Since Zwickel is German for the tap on the fermentation vessel that lets brewers taste their works in progress, you might even catch some free samples straight from the vat.

Romance

Paris seems made for couples and romance

Paris fulfills every expectation as the “City of Love.” Strolling along its broad and picturesque backstreets, lounging in its elegantly laid out formal gardens, contemplating artistic masterpieces in its museums, and lingering after sunset on lamp-lit bridges to watch the Eiffel Tower sparkle on the hour as illuminated monuments reflect on the Seine, it’s impossible not to be captivated.

Fall head-over-heels on this four- to seven-day itinerary showcasing the best sights and experiences for couples in the French capital. In partnership with Delta Vacations, we’ll show you how to Go Beyond the Flight and get more from your vacation experience. Here you’ll find just a sample of accommodations available through Delta Vacations that are perfect for couples – plus easy transfer options and, most importantly, one-of-a-kind activities both on and off the beaten path.

Whether it’s an elevated experience at a well-known tourist destination or an under-the-radar gem, there’s something special for every couple in the City of Light.

Strolling through Paris with someone you love, it’s impossible not to be captivated © Craig Waxman, Polysphere Creative, for Lonely Planet

Day one – Around the Champs-Élysées and Eiffel Tower

At the center of the Étoile (‘star’) roundabout, reached by underground tunnels, the Arc de Triomphe is a sensational vantage point for a first glimpse of this magnificent city. It’s a steep climb up 284 steps to the top of the 164-foot-high arch but the reward is a one of the lesser known but most incredible perspectives of the city – a 360-degree view of the dozen leafy avenues radiating from here, taking in the Paris’ line of historic monuments southeast to place de la Concorde and the Louvre beyond. Northwest you can see another arch, the 1989-built Grande Arche de la Défense in Paris’ skyscraper-filled business district La Défense.

On a sunny summer’s day, a lovely detour from the Arc de Triomphe is to head a short distance west to Paris’ sprawling western forest, the Bois de Boulogne, where you can hire an old-fashioned rowing boat for a romantic exploration of its largest lake, Lac Inférieur.

After promenading down the avenue des Champs-Élysées, cut south along av Winston Churchill between the art-nouveau Grand Palais and Petit Palais to cross the city’s most exquisite bridge, Pont Alexandre III, festooned with cherubs, nymphs and gilded winged horses.

© Graphics by Jacob Rhoades / Lonely Planet

The bridge leads to the manicured lawns fronting the stately Hôtel des Invalides military complex. Hiding around the eastern side is Paris’ most romantic museum, the sculpture-filled Musée Rodin. In 18th-century mansion the Hôtel Biron, where Rodin had his studios and showrooms, there are gorgeous examples of his works, including his sinuous marble monument to love, The Kiss. Stroll through the fragrant rose gardens surrounding the property to see more Rodin masterpieces, including The Thinker. Close by, Parisian coffee roaster Coutume‘s flagship cafe makes a perfect stop to recharge with an espresso or filter brew.

Wending through the backstreets of the 7e and 15e arrondissements on foot (or taking a shortcut by metro) will bring you to Paris’ little-known third island in the Seine, the Île aux Cygnes. Accessed by the Pont de Grenelle, a 1889, one-quarter scale replica of the Statue of Liberty guards its southwestern tip. The island’s tree-lined walking path reveals fabulous Eiffel Tower views.

Dining doesn’t get more magical than inside the spire itself. A dinner at the Eiffel Tower and cruise experience lets you soak in Paris from both the first floor restaurant Madame Brasserie – where celebrated Parisian chef Thierry Marx’ passion for locally sourced ingredients shines through his cuisine – and aboard a riverboat on the Seine.

In Paris, opportunities to bond over a shared love of food are limitless © Craig Waxman, Polysphere Creative, for Lonely Planet

Day two – Central Parisian classics

In Paris, opportunities to bond over a shared love of food are limitless. A brilliant foray is to wander Le Marais’ warren of narrow medieval streets that escaped Baron Haussmann’s 19th-century renovation of the city. This vibrant inner-Parisian neighborhood now overflows with eateries of every imaginable type that make it one of the premier places to dine. Explore the latest hotspots on a small-group Secret Food Tour Paris Le Marais.

Before leaving Le Marais, don’t miss a quintessentially Parisian moment at the city’s oldest square, place des Vosges: an exquisite central patch of green enveloped by 36 symmetrical buildings with street-level arcades where you might here classical musicians such as violinists thanks to the superb acoustics. In its southeastern corner is the Maison de Victor Hugo, where the author lived after the success of his novel, The Hunchback of Notre Dame; it’s now an intimate museum portraying his life and work.

Ambling southwest leads you on to the smaller of Paris’ two inhabited city islands, the jewel-like Île St-Louis. Boutiques are strung along its central street, including the home of its wonderful ice cream maker, Berthillon, with over 70 tantalizing flavors.

Almost always filled with street performers and buskers such as accordion players, the Pont St-Louis connects the Île St-Louis to the larger Île de la Cité. Its most famous landmark, Paris’ Notre Dame cathedral, remains closed for post-fire renovations until 2024. Dazzling stained glass can still be seen at 13th-century Gothic chapel Sainte-Chapelle. At Île de la Cité’s westernmost point, descend the stairs to find the tiny, triangular park square du Vert-Galant at the water’s edge.

Returning to the Right Bank along Paris’ oldest bridge, the Pont Neuf, it’s just a few blocks northwest to the regal urban garden Jardin du Palais Royal with arcaded galleries and gravel walkways embraced by the neoclassical Palais Royal. In its northwestern corner, relish the romance of 18th-century Paris in one of the world’s most beautiful restaurants, Le Grand Véfour.

End the day on the Seine aboard a romantic cruise as you savor a gourmet French dinner © Craig Waxman, Polysphere Creative, for Lonely Planet

Day three – Left Bank treasures

Flânerie (urban strolling without any particular destination) is a joy on Paris’ Rive Gauche (Left Bank). Allow plenty of time here to discover tiny boutiques, gourmet food shops, bistros, wine bars and literary cafes loaded with myth and history.

Start the day with un café on the awning-shaded terrace of Les Deux Magots, overlooking Paris’ oldest church, the Romanesque Église St-Germain des Prés, built in the 11th century on the site of a 6th-century abbey.

Just north, tucked away on a leafy little square, is the Musée National Eugène Delacroix, in the seminal French artist’s former home and studio.

Delacroix’s frescoes adorn the walls a few blocks south at another beautiful Left Bank church, Église St-Sulpice. In front of its colonnaded Italianate facade, place St-Sulpice is an picturesque spot to linger, as are the iconic sage-green metal chairs scattered in the nearby chestnut-shaded gardens, the Jardin du Luxembourg.

Past Paris’ multilayered museum of the Middle Ages, the Musée de Cluny, aka the Musée National du Moyen Âge (home to the celebrated series of tapestries, The Lady with the Unicorn, dating from 1500), and the city’s medieval-founded university, La Sorbonne, wind your way through the Latin Quarter’s backstreets for timeless French cuisine by flickering candlelight in a vine-draped 17th-century townhouse at restaurant Le Coupe-Chou. Finish the evening listening to live jazz in the medieval stone cellar of jazz club Caveau de la Huchette.

Discover tiny boutiques, gourmet food shops, bistros, wine bars and literary cafes loaded with myth and history © Craig Waxman, Polysphere Creative, for Lonely Planet

Day four – Enchanting Montmartre

Until 1860, hilltop Montmartre lay just beyond the city’s boundaries to the north. Building began on the white-domed basilica Sacré-Cœur soon after Montmartre became Paris’ 18th arrondissement and some of the world’s foremost artists lived and painted here. Today its cobblestone streets and charming squares still preserve its quaint village character.

Behind the art-nouveau-canopied Abbesses metro station, the year-2000-installed artwork Le Mur des Je t’aime (Wall of Love) spells out “I love you” in 250 languages.

Not far to the south in the 9e arrondissement, painter Ary Scheffer’s former home and gathering place of Paris’ Romantic-era luminaries is now the Musée de la Vie Romantique, evoking the era in both the mansion-housed museum and its delightful garden.

While away the afternoon in Paris’ northeast at pretty waterway Canal St-Martin. Its shaded towpaths and wrought-iron footbridges are idyllic for a stroll – or simply sprawl on the grassy banks or take a seat at a cafe terrace along the banks and watch the boats float by.

End the day back on the Seine aboard a Romantic Dinner Cruise as you savor a gourmet French dinner along with spellbinding views of the alluring city.

Paris’ romantic hotels sweep you up in the city’s magic © Craig Waxman, Polysphere Creative, for Lonely Planet

Where to stay in Paris for couples

Paris’ romantic hotels sweep you up in the city’s magic. To reach them easily, private sedan transfers, available to book through Delta Vacations, can whisk you to and from the airport in style. Behind a grand neoclassical façade, the Hotel Regina Louvre Paris has 98 rooms (including 32 suites) with Louis XV- and Louis XVI-style furniture. Most have views across the Jardin des Tuileries to the Eiffel Tower.

Between the Champs-Élysées and Eiffel Tower, just back from the Seine, is the Villa Marquis Meliá Collection. This former aristocratic residence now accommodates guests in contemporary rooms with vibrant colors and geometric styling. On hand are a library, restaurant and 24-hour gym.

In the heart of Paris’ Golden Triangle, home to its famous fashion houses, Le Belmont Paris has beautiful timber interiors, British Axminster woven carpets, French furniture, granite bathrooms and theatrically curtained headboards. Its glass-roofed spa features a traditional Turkish bath and fitness area.

Peacefully situated yet within moments of the Louvre and reborn department store Samaritaine, Maison Albar Hotels Le Pont Neuf has 60 rooms in soft beige and blue tones with art deco-inspired furniture and a spa with a swimming pool.

In stylish St-Germain des Prés, 1926-built Hotel Montalembert has 50 rooms over eight floors featuring Hermès and Pierre Frey silk curtains. Its concierge service can book tickets to shows and events, and arrange flowers, chocolate, fruit, wine and Champagne in your room for your arrival in Paris.

Why this partnership?: Delta Vacations is reinventing itself – your miles are worth more when you use them toward your vacation, so you can do more. Choose from flights, stays, rides and activities all over the world, all in one place.

Adventure Travel

A first-time guide to Portland, Maine

Combining rugged beauty, maritime history and a thriving culinary scene, the city of Portland is one of Maine’s shining stars, showcasing the best of New England.

Situated on Casco Bay, Portland packs a punch across its walkable Old Port district, beautiful working waterfront and historic neighborhoods – and there’s a lot to explore. This small city (even though it’s the largest in the state) is a destination where you can sip craft cocktails in a t-shirt or flannel without judgment, or walk into a dive bar and become friends with some locals over blueberry-pie Jell-O shots (more on that below).

If eating the best lobster roll you’ve ever had at a lighthouse perched on the Atlantic Ocean sounds like your kind of thing, Portland is for you. And while lobster and ocean views are the city’s calling cards, there’s much more to discover here.

Outdoor activities get you pumped up? Lace up your boots to take to the numerous hiking trails nearby. Love the beach? Portland has you covered. Looking for culture? Check out the buzzing art scene. If you’re looking for a weekend of superb eating and drinking, or a few days of wellness, Portland can provide whatever kind of escape you want. It’s a place that encapsulates Maine’s tagline, “The way life should be.”

Relaxed, friendly and fun, Portland never disappoints. If you’re planning your first trip, here’s all you need to know.

A smiling young woman paddle boards across the harbor in Portland, Maine, USA — Summer in Portland means taking to the water of Casco Bay. Chris Bennett/Getty Images

When should I go to Portland?

Summer is peak season for Portland (and for Maine), with warmer temperatures ideal for taking advantage of all outdoor pursuits, taking a dip in the chilly ocean and spending Thursday or Friday evenings washing down food-truck fare with local brews, your foot tapping to live music at Thompson’s Point – for free. While summertime is spectacular in southern Maine, it’s also a very popular time to visit, so expect many fellow visitors and higher prices for accommodations. Portland Wine Week in June is an especially busy time.

Portland charms in all seasons – though the weather does turn frigid and snowy in the winter. Yet the snowflakes falling on the cobblestone streets of the Old Port are fetching indeed, and you can always get cozy with a hot toddy in one of the city’s many tucked-away cocktail bars.

The shoulder season in Portland may be the sweet spot, with fewer crowds and more budget-friendly accommodation come fall and spring. Leaf-peepers can enjoy the colorful display anywhere from mid-September to the end of October. Foodies will savor the annual Harvest on the Harbor festival, held in late October or early November.

How much time should I spend in Portland?

The destination works well as a weekend escape – in a couple of days, you can sample a couple of restaurants, breweries and museums – though three to four days will spare you feeling rushed while providing a full taste of the city. You can cover the essentials and tack on a local hike, a sunset sailing trip in Casco Bay or an afternoon perusing local boutiques. However long you visit Portland, consider it recon for your next trip. You’ll want to come back.

A woman crosses the street in the downtown of Portland, Maine, USA — Once you’re in downtown Portland and the Old Port, you can walk everywhere. iStock

Is it easy to get in and around Portland?

We recommend taking a car to Portland for maximum freedom and flexibility. Street parking can be tricky downtown, and in the Old Port; there are a few paid parking garages. I always find a spot if I’m willing to walk a few blocks – just be prepared to circle around a few times.

Portland International Jetport lies just 2 miles from downtown. Alternatively, it’s possible to fly into Boston Logan International Airport and rent a car for the almost 2-hour drive north. Amtrak trains reach Portland at Thompson’s Point, just a touch west of the city: the Downeaster travels along the coast every day south to Boston and north to Brunswick.

With the Old Port as your base, you can easily walk to many popular attractions and restaurants. (It’s wise to seek out accommodation that offers parking, especially in the summer.) Public transport is available for those without a car, thanks to Greater Portland METRO.

Phan serves a customer at Vy Banh Mi food truck, Portland, Maine, USA — From lobster shacks to fine restaurants to food trucks, Portland’s food scene is legendary for a reason. Shawn Patrick Ouellette/Portland Press Herald via Getty Images

Top things to do in Portland

Eat, eat – and eat some more

Portland has earned its reputation as a gourmet’s paradise. Classic diners serve delicious comfort food like pancakes with wild Maine blueberries, while chefs of the highest caliber put their impressive mark on a range of cuisines.

Anyone arriving hungry in Portland will want to start with a lobster roll. A deeper dive will unearth everything from craft donuts to Southern barbecue; Greek, Asian, Mexican and Puerto Rican joints; food trucks; and much, much more.

If you like oysters, sampling treasures freshly plucked from the Atlantic is a must. You can’t go wrong at The Shop by Island Creek Oysters in the East Bayside neighborhood, which has a lively atmosphere and killer Bloody Mary. (Yes, it’s topped with an oyster.)

Portland is known for its buzzing breweries and craft cocktail bars. On the sprawling patio at the city’s most famous brewery, Allagash Brewing Company, you can down another lobster roll from the Bite Into Maine food truck. First-timers shouldn’t skip the hot and crisp hand-cut Belgian frites at Duckfat – a true Portland institution, whose cones of twice-fried duck-fat fries live up to the hype.

Hop aboard a boat

The ruggedly handsome coast begs to be explored, and the perspective from the water is superb. I love the Wine Wise wine sails in the late afternoon or evening for sunset.

A young couple walking on trail by edge of cliff rocks at Portland Head Light in Fort Williams Park, Cape Elizabeth, Maine, USA — South of the city, historic Portland Head Light is always picture-perfect. Kristi Blokhin/Shutterstock

Visit at least one lighthouse

Head south to Cape Elizabeth to take in the historic and still-operating Portland Head Light, which dates to 1791. Check out the on-site museum and wander the trail for different viewpoints of the extremely photogenic lighthouse. If you happen to visit on Maine Open Lighthouse Day, you’ll be one of the lucky guests to climb the tower – it’s open to the public exactly one day a year.

Hit some nearby trails

Stretch your legs and work off those donuts with a nearby hike. The 3.6-mile waterfront Back Cove loop trail features views of the city on the city’s northeastern edge. A 15-minute drive from town lies Mackworth Island, where a short 1.25-mile trail traces the shore of this tiny speck, which is a state park of the same name. Birding enthusiasts will love that it’s an official bird sanctuary, where you might spot osprey and other shorebirds. About half an hour north of Portland by car, Wolfe’s Neck Woods State Park is home to six trails of varying lengths that feature scenic vistas of Casco Bay, Googins Island and the Harraseeket River.

My favorite thing to do in Portland

I can’t get enough of the food and bar scenes in Portland. When I visit, I always return to Central Provisions for the Baja fish sandwich and to Gilbert’s Chowder House for a steamy bowl of New England clam chowder. And I always pepper in a couple of new-to-me restaurants and breweries each time. (There are always new places to try.)

I always make sure to get my donut fix at Hifi Donuts (I love the Mexican Hot Chocolate or Calico Glaze flavors). Come evening, while I can never resist a craft cocktail from stylish Blyth & Burrows on Exchange St, my heart is happier at a dive bar like Dock Fore, which specializes in local banter and those aforementioned blueberry-pie Jell-O shots.

Boiling lobsters near Portland Head Light, Cape Elizabeth, Maine, USA — You can’t visit Portland without savoring lobster and admiring a lighthouse. Cavan Images

How much money do I need for Portland?

It depends. You can take in Portland on a mid-range budget – or easily ascend to the stratosphere. I’ve found that even a late-night slice of pizza here is pricier than in other places. Yet if you know where to go and are willing to travel outside of peak season, it’s possible to visit without draining your bank account.

If you’re on a budget, focus on free activities like wandering the waterfront, visiting lighthouses and beaches, and hiking nearby trails. Get your lunch at a food truck, freeing up money to spend on dinner and drinks in the evening.

Basic room for two: $200–500
Self-catering apartments: $170–720
Luxury hotel: $500–700
Ferry ticket: $7.20/$14 (off-peak/peak)
Bus ticket: $2–5 (single ride)
Coffee: $2.50–6
Donuts or pastries: $2.75–8
Brewery beer: $7–9 (pint); $10–16 (flight)
Lobster roll: $17–38
Mid-range dinner out for two: $40–75
Slice of late-night pizza: $4.50–7
Craft cocktail: $13–20

Patrons eat at outdoor tables at Duckfat restaurant, Portland, Maine, USA — Reserving ahead at popular restaurants like Duckfat is essential. Logan Werlinger/Portland Portland Press Herald via Getty Images

Frequently asked questions about Portland

How should I pack for Portland?

No matter the season, bring lots of layers. Maine’s weather can be fickle, changing on a dime. The temperature varies quite a bit within the space of one day – think chilly mornings and evenings and hot afternoons in the summer. Year-round, you should always have a rain jacket and windproof layer on hand. In winter, you’ll want to have a solid winter coat and boots, sweaters and thinner wool layers to keep warm and peel off once you’re inside a cozy restaurant.

Do I need to make advance restaurant reservations in Portland?

Yes. Portland is a true foodie hub, and you don’t want to find yourself missing out on a meal at that restaurant on the tippy top of your list. Reserve ahead where you can, especially in peak summer season.

How much should I plan to do in one day or weekend in Portland?

Don’t overprogram yourself. If you’re anything like me, you’ll be tempted to pack in as much as possible on your first trip in order to make the most of your time. Yet I highly recommend forcing yourself to take it a little slower, and truly savor what you are doing, seeing and eating. I always recommend quality over quantity when it comes to travel experiences.

Beaches

A first-time guide to Bali

From adventure seekers, partygoers and families to those in search of spiritual well-being, nature and culture, Bali truly offers something for everyone. The island’s natural splendor of beaches, mountains, rice terraces, river gorges, waterfalls and rainforests is combined with ancient spiritual traditions expressed through Hindu temples, ceremonies and rituals.

In Bali, you can enjoy exceptional dining, rejuvenating spas, unlimited shopping and beach clubs galore. Dance the days and nights away, practice yoga, scale mighty volcanoes, explore eco activities, ride the island’s incredible surf breaks, play golf, snorkel, dive, or visit theme parks. If you’re open to Bali’s creative, artistic and healing energies, this is where you will find your inspiration.

Here’s all you need to know before you visit Bali for the first time.

Many people are carrying an ogoh-ogoh (papier-mâché monster) in Denpasar, Bali, as part of Nyepi celebrations — If you visit in March you could be lucky enough to witness ogoh-ogoh parades ahead of Nyepi. Rudy Widjaja/Getty Images

When should I go to Bali?

The best time to visit Bali is not necessarily determined by the weather but by the activities and festivals you wish to experience. Look forward to sunny, tropical days and balmy nights with temperatures ranging from 27–32°C (81–90°F) and 77–85% humidity throughout the year. The dry season (May through October) brings blue skies and sunny days, while the hot wet season (November through April) is considerably more humid, with torrential downpours and frequent storms. Winds are strong in July during the Bali Kite Festival at Padang Galak. August is the coolest and least humid month, perfect for the chilled, melodic strains of the Ubud Village Jazz Festival. January and February are generally the wettest months with late afternoon thunderstorms.

Peak seasons may also affect your decision about when to visit Bali, as the most popular times are not only the busiest but also the most expensive. Throngs of visitors descend on the island during the July and August school holidays, Christmas, New Year, Chinese New Year and Easter, driving up rates for everything from airfares and hotels to taxis and tour packages.

Off-peak seasons are cheaper and some of the best deals can be had at this time. Watch the extraordinary ogoh-ogoh (papier-mâché monster) parades in March, followed by Nyepi, the Balinese Day of Silence. The way in which it is celebrated is totally unique and something that you will never experience anywhere else in the world. Visit the month-long Bali Arts Festival or witness the thrilling Mekare-kare theatrical fight, which takes place in June or July between the young men of the village of Tenganan, near Candidasa. Celebrate yoga, dance and music at the Bali Spirit Festival in May; and eat, read and write your way through the culinary and literary extravaganzas of the Ubud Food Festival in May and the international Ubud Writers and Readers Festival in October.

How much time should I spend in Bali?

You can visit Bali on a two-day stopover or you can spend a lifetime here, while still discovering unknown places and encountering new wonders. One week is perfect for relaxation and activities, either beachside or in the cultural hub of Ubud. Three weeks will give you time to explore and perhaps base yourself in three contrasting places, such as Amed, Ubud and Seminyak.

If you’ve only got a few days and you’re looking for a white-sand beach holiday away from the traffic jams of Canggu and the Bukit Peninsula, go to Nusa Lembongan, a 30-minute, fast-boat ride from Sanur. Lembongan is everything you might imagine a small tropical island to be, with clear turquoise waters, idyllic coves, a mangrove forest, surf spots, dive sites and a laid-back vibe.

A fast-boat service leaves Nusa Lembongan in Bali, Indonesia, leaving a white trail in the water. — Fast-boat services will whisk you to places including Nusa Lembongan (pictured). Didier Marti/Getty Images

Is it easy to get in and around Bali?

With 43 international and domestic airlines flying into Denpasar Airport (DPS) from 58 airports around the world, plus public ferries from Java and Lombok, Bali is an easy place to get to.

Once you’ve arrived, you’ll find that walking as a means of getting around is not a great option. The weather is hot and sticky, the streets are busy and the sidewalks are grimy and broken. Taxis can be hailed at the side of the road or ordered online. There are several different companies, all universally blue in color, but Bluebird – look for the Bluebird branding on the side of the cars – has reliable meters, low-priced fares and the best reputation. Grab and Gojek are Bali’s ride-hailing apps, offering car and motorcycle transportation as well as delivery services.

Getting around Bali by bus is slow and therefore the least favored option for visitors, but it’s cheap. Perama Tour offers a daily shuttle bus service to and from all the main places of interest.

Fast-boat services will take you to Nusa Lembongan and Nusa Penida, while smaller boats will take you between Lembongan and Penida. Since 2023, in a bid to beat the two-hour congested journey by road, an ocean taxi service, goboat.id, has been operating daily services between Canggu and Uluwatu. Expect a fabulously scenic but wet 35-minute ride in a traditional jukung outrigger fishing boat.

Motorcycle and car rental is available everywhere and is very reasonably priced, but be aware that the roads are dangerous, and negotiating the chaotic traffic can be stressful and challenging in the busy touristy areas. Consider hiring a car along with a driver; you’ll find it to be a much more relaxing, enjoyable experience.

A concrete spiral staircase winds upwards on a cafe's outdoor terrace, which looks out over Mount Batur — For a classic Bali experience, enjoy a drink with a view of Gunung Batur. Shutterstock/Gekirei Shaquee

Top things to do in Bali

Marvel at the view of an active volcano

Looking to see some spectacular scenery? If you only have time for one excursion, a Bali “must do” is a day trip to Kintamani to see Gunung Batur volcano and its crater lake. Early morning is the best time and you can have breakfast, coffee, a buffet lunch or a beer in one of the many restaurants or coffee shops on the rim of the ancient caldera.

Witness a natural phenomenon at Petulu

If you’re staying in Ubud, head to the nearby village of Petulu in the late afternoon, where you’ll be awed by the sight of thousands of white herons flying in to roost for the night.

Be a poser for a day

Sign up for a private Instagram Tour and pose for some astonishing photos at the best spots on the island, such as Lake Tamblingan, Tukad Cepung waterfall, Taman Tirta Gangga water palace, and the Gates of Heaven at the Pura Lempuyang temple complex.

Get out of your comfort zone

The bustle, authenticity and history of the old city within the heart of Denpasar offers a gritty slice of everyday life. Most tourists give Bali’s capital a miss, but if you’re prepared to be a little bit adventurous and brave the crowded streets and the commission hunters, you’ll discover some gems in this historical and commercial concentration of markets, temples and monuments. Shop for handicrafts and paintings in Kumbasari Art Market, fabrics on Jalan Sulawesi and gold jewelry on Jalan Hasanuddin.

Small fishing boats are lined up on a sandy beach, with simple buildings beyond. — Unspoilt Jimbaran Beach is perfect for a relaxing taste of beach life. Anakrubah/Getty Images

My favorite thing to do in Bali

If you happen to be approaching from the west as you come into land at Bali’s international airport, you will fly at just a few hundred meters over white-capped waves and tiny fishing boats towards the beautiful golden-sand Jimbaran Beach.

Jimbaran has been my favorite go-to beach for the last 26 years. It’s safe for swimming (albeit with the occasional dumper wave) and remarkably unspoilt and peaceful during the daytime. You can rent a sun lounger and umbrella here and enjoy cold drinks, snacks or fresh fish from one of the local seafood cafes. The bay is west facing so be sure to stay long enough to catch one of Bali’s legendary sunsets.

How much money do I need for Bali?

One of the many joys of holidaying in Bali is the element of choice. For example, a clean and comfortable hotel room for two can be as little as 500,000Rp (US$31) if you want to keep your costs down, or you could pay 30,000,000Rp (US$1300) for a suite at a fabulous resort. Around 50,000Rp (US$3) will buy you a nasi goreng (fried rice) at a roadside warung (food stall), while a nasi goreng in one of Bali’s fine-dining restaurants might cost ten times as much.

Hostel room: 100,000Rp (US$6)
Perama shuttle bus from Kuta to Ubud: 100,000Rp (US$6)
Cappuccino: 35,000Rp (US$2)
Sandwich: 60,000Rp (US$4)
Dinner for two: 400,000Rp (US$25)
Bottle of Bintang beer at a simple beach bar: 35,000Rp (US$2)
Petrol: 14,000Rp (US$1) per liter
Self-drive car rental: 325,000Rp (US$20) for 24 hours

Many people peruse the souvenir items at market stalls lining a street in Ubud, Bali — You’ll need to carry at least some cash to pay for goods at market stalls and at other small establishments. Jon Chica Parada/Getty Images

Cash or credit card?

Both. You’ll need cash for taxis, entrance fees for temples, market stalls, bars and simple restaurants, as most of the smaller local businesses don’t have card machines. You can use credit cards in supermarkets, international restaurants, hotels and the larger glass-fronted shops.

Will my travel insurance cover me for a motorcycle accident in Bali?

Quite possibly not. Most insurance policies require you to hold a full license to drive a 125cc motorcycle in your home country in addition to holding an international license or an Indonesian license. Not wearing a helmet or driving while intoxicated will invalidate your cover. Check your policy wording very carefully. You won’t believe how many GoFundMe accounts are set up by the families of seriously injured foreigners to cover the hundreds of thousands of dollars required for hospital bills and medical evacuation costs.

How do I show respect to the Balinese people and culture?

There have been a lot of well-publicized incidents of foreigners behaving badly in Bali, disrespecting the local culture and the law. To be a respectful visitor, avoid reckless driving, nudity and public displays of emotion. Additionally, overly revealing attire will attract unwanted attention or disapproval, particularly in the less touristy areas.

What clothing should I pack for Bali?

Bring cool cottons, T-shirts, shorts, sandals, swimwear and casual resort wear. If you forget anything, or if you need something special for Bali’s glamorous night scene, you’ll find everything you need in the shops and boutiques in the tourist areas.

Wildlife and Nature

10 of the best hiking routes in Alaska

Perhaps no other US location has the diversity of Alaska when it comes to hiking.

From casual strolls to hardcore alpine scrambling, the state proves itself over and over again as a destination of choice for trekkers. Those seeking solitude should venture out of the main city centers and tackle trails not usually traveled by the casual Alaska visitor. Staff at one of four public lands information centers in Anchorage, Fairbanks, Tok, and Ketchikan can assist hiking enthusiasts with all the details related to trails, permits and safety, and provide insight into transportation to remote locations.

Many of Alaska’s trails are also directly connected to its rich culture and history as well, offering a bonus for hikers through interpretive displays or guided opportunities to become more familiar with the largest state in the US. From wandering a national park trail lined with traditional totem poles to witnessing the retreat of an ancient glacier, hiking here means a real-time education into the cultural and environmental aspects that make each region unique. From casual strolls to strenuous scrambles and climbs, here’s our guide to Alaska’s best hiking trails.

A wooden totem pole with carved faces — Learn about local history on a stroll among the totem poles of Sitka National Historical Park © Earl Eliason / Getty Images

1. Sitka National Historical Park, Sitka

Best short walk
1 mile (1.6km), easy

Located within walking distance of downtown Sitka, this park’s lush rainforests combine with 20 totem poles for a lovely walk of cultural history in Southeast Alaska. The site of a bitter battle between local Tlingit and the Russian army in 1804, interpretive signs tell the story while preserving the valuable traditions of local tribes for generations to come.

2. Trail of Blue Ice, Portage

Best accessible trail
5 miles one way (8km), easy

Located between Anchorage and the seaside village of Whittier, the Trail of Blue Ice is the result of an amazing effort by the US Forest Service to introduce visitors to the many glaciers of Southcentral Alaska’s Portage Valley. This fully-accessible trail features interpretive signs explaining the glacial valley and surrounding mountains, and the abundant flora and fauna of this popular isthmus of land. Start at Moose Flats on the western end and hike east, or start at the Begich, Boggs Visitor Center along the shores of Portage Lake and hike west. Watch for salmon in Williwaw Creek during July and August, and keep an eye out for bears at all times.

A large snow-capped mountain looms over a landscape with two tents — Catch glimpses of Mt Denali on the trails of the K’esugi Ken Complex © JIA HE / Alamy Stock Photo

3. K’esugi Ken Complex trails, Denali State Park

Hiking trail with the best campground
2 mile loop (3.2km), easy

This shining star of the Alaska State Park system features a large campground, public use cabins, and expansive day use pavilion that all connect to a looping interpretive trail that offers spectacular views of Denali on clear days. It’s a perfect place to wander and admire the scenery and educational signage that explains the history, flora and fauna, and Alaska native cultures of the area. Bonus: It’s a delightful family-friendly stop as well.

Want to know more about Denali? Here’s our guide for first-timers

4. Creamer’s Field Migratory Waterfowl Refuge, Fairbanks

Best trail for bird-watching
1–3 miles (1.6–5km), easy

Wandering Creamer’s Field means admiring this former dairy farm’s barns and outbuildings and spotting a plethora of birds coming and going nearly every time of year. A highlight is the August migration of the Sandhill crane, a leggy bird that spends winters in southern states but uses the fields of Creamer’s to rest and feed before flying in huge numbers across the Alaska skies. The Boreal Forest, Farm Road and Seasonal Wetland trails are all connected and flat, and naturalist walks are often conducted to better acquaint visitors with the area wildlife.

A walkway leads to a glacier viewing point — See Mendenhall Glacier from the East Glacier Trail © urbanglimpses / Getty Images

5. East Glacier Trail, Juneau

Best hike for glacier views
2.8 miles out and back (4.5 km), moderate

A visit to Juneau would not be complete without a hike in and around the Mendenhall Glacier area. This loop trail leaves from the visitor center, connects to the Trail of Time route, then leads to a great view of the Mendenhall Glacier. There’s also a side trail route to the A-J Waterfall (another 1.3 miles/2km) where visitors can witness the tumbling water flowing over the rocky ledges. This trail can be busy, so consider going early in the morning or later in the evening. Watch for bears during salmon spawning season (July to August).

Ready to plan your trip to Alaska? Pick the right time of year with our seasonal guide

6. John Hunter Memorial Trail, Valdez

Best hike to a lake
3.8 miles round trip (6km), moderate

Formerly known as the Solomon Gulch Trail, this trail provides an excellent look at the Port of Valdez, where the 800-mile Trans-Alaska Pipeline ends. After a steep initial climb, the trail wanders through a forest and some industrial yards before ending at Solomon Lake and its two dams for hydroelectric power. There’s great berry picking during the summer months and you may see bears during salmon spawning season (July to September).

7. Angel Rocks Loop Trail, Fairbanks

Best hike for geology features
3.8 mile loop (6km), moderate

Rockhounds, alert! This popular but usually uncrowded trail is fascinating for its unique outcroppings or tors, formed when molten rocks pushed upward from beneath the earth and cooled before it reached the surface. Subsequent erosion over centuries left these formations in full view, and now they’re part of the amazing topography of Interior Alaska. In the summer, wildflowers are abundant and the scent of sage, unusual this far north, dominates the south-facing slopes. Great photo opportunities abound here, but be aware that climbing on the tors is not allowed to preserve both safety and the geology of this area.

Looking for more things to do? Don’t miss Alaska’s best experiences

A meadow of flowers with a distant glacier and mountains — There are amazing views on the Jumbo Mine Trail in Wrangell-St Elias National Park © Andrew Peacock / Getty Images

8. Jumbo Mine Trail 508, Kennecott (Wrangell-St Elias National Park)

Best trail for fit hikers
5 miles (8km) one way, strenuous

If you’re looking for a combination of Alaska history, scenery and a heart-pumping hike, the climb to Jumbo Mine delivers. Located near the Kennecott Mines National Historic Landmark, the trail is but one of several maintained by the National Park Service to educate visitors about this former copper mill town. This very steep trail winds up switchbacks for 3400ft before reaching the Jumbo Mine site along a rocky former road. Make time to stop along the way to both catch your breath and capture amazing views of the mill townsite, Root Glacier, and the surrounding mountains topped with snow all year. Allow all day for this hike and be sure to carry plenty of food and water.

9. Twin Peaks Trail, Chugiak/Anchorage area

Best route for scramblers and adrenaline junkies
2.6 miles (4.2 km) one way, strenuous

This short, steep trail departs from the shores of Eklutna Lake, a popular state park about 45 minutes northeast of Anchorage. Perfect for hikers using Eklutna Lake campground as a home base, the trail switchbacks nearly the entire length, offering amazing views of the lake the farther one climbs. Dall sheep are often spotted near the top, making the hike a special one, indeed. Want to go farther? Continue along the ridgeline to Pepper Peak for another 4 miles and make an entire day of it.

10. Curry Ridge, Denali State Park

Best multiday backpacking hike
6.5 miles (10.5km) one way, strenuous

The views from upper Curry Ridge are nothing short of spectacular, as are the wild blueberry bushes during the latter part of summer. Departing from the K’esugi Ken Complex near Willow, Curry Ridge trail winds uphill from the K’esugi campground before wandering the alpine areas; it’s a great choice for backpackers wanting to spend the night in the shadow of Denali. Carry all water and food, and be aware that weather conditions can change with little notice. Be bear-aware at all times.

Tips for hiking in Alaska

Be wildlife aware. Bears inhabit every region of Alaska, and often use the same trails as humans. Carry bear spray (and know how to use it), make noise while hiking, travel in groups, and avoid brushy areas along stream and river banks during salmon spawning season, which varies depending on where you are in Alaska, but is broadly June through September.
Be self sufficient. Few hiking areas have cell service. Carry a first aid kit and extra water, food, and gear to stay safe should an emergency arise.
Pay the fees in state and national parks. Visit the Public Lands Information Centers for more information.

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Best tip for someone who wants to plan the same trip?

Vallée de Mai, Praslin

Morne Seychellois National Park & Silhouette Island

Pioneering ecological restoration in the Seychelles

Nature’s own islands

The Coralline Islands

1. Float on the jewel-colored waters of Lake Uri

2. Hike waterfalls and high-Alpine moors in Meiringen

3. Climb Mt Pilatus on the world’s steepest cog railway

4. Witness a blazing sunrise or sunset from Mt Rigi

5. Head to Brunnen for paragliding, sailing and kitesurfing

6. Try winter skiing or high-altitude hiking at Engelberg

7. Ride the funicular and summit Stanserhorn

8. Join pilgrims visiting Einsiedeln from afar

Ditch the car for pedal power

Bike rental is widely available

Ride the railways for longer distance journeys

Download some travel apps in advance

Get a Rejsekort travel card

There’s a great bus network too

Car rentals are convenient but pricey

It is easy to drive an electric car in Denmark

Domestic flights aren’t usually necessary

Explore the Danish coastline by ferry

Accessible travel is good on trains and buses in Denmark

Flight-free travel

Low-impact explorations

Protected spaces

Fabulous food (and wine)

Green stays

Loving low season

Cultural riches

Access for everyone

Exploring off the beaten track

Catch a rainbow of blooms from March to May

June to September is best for hiking and outdoor dining

September to October is spooky season

Embrace the dark with books and holiday lights in November and December

February is craft beer time

Day one – Around the Champs-Élysées and Eiffel Tower

Day two – Central Parisian classics

Day three – Left Bank treasures

Day four – Enchanting Montmartre

Where to stay in Paris for couples

When should I go to Portland?

How much time should I spend in Portland?

Is it easy to get in and around Portland?

Top things to do in Portland

Eat, eat – and eat some more

Hop aboard a boat

Visit at least one lighthouse

Hit some nearby trails

My favorite thing to do in Portland

How much money do I need for Portland?

Frequently asked questions about Portland

When should I go to Bali?

How much time should I spend in Bali?

Is it easy to get in and around Bali?

Top things to do in Bali

My favorite thing to do in Bali

How much money do I need for Bali?

Cash or credit card?

Will my travel insurance cover me for a motorcycle accident in Bali?

How do I show respect to the Balinese people and culture?

What clothing should I pack for Bali?

1. Sitka National Historical Park, Sitka

2. Trail of Blue Ice, Portage

3. K’esugi Ken Complex trails, Denali State Park

4. Creamer’s Field Migratory Waterfowl Refuge, Fairbanks

5. East Glacier Trail, Juneau

6. John Hunter Memorial Trail, Valdez