Archives 2023

Lonely Planet has been traveling the world for 50 years and counting.

And in an era of chatbots and AI-generated images, we continue to rely on real people and experts who taste, smell and see the world – then report the best of it back to us. To create our books and website, we work with writers and photographers from Vietnam to Vanuatu to Victoria, BC, to Victoria Falls – and beyond.

We also work with numerous of on-the-ground photographers – either local professionals who are excited to share a glimpse of their home, or photographers on vacation or on assignment. 

Our ultimate goal is to inform and inspire. For you never know when the light is going to hit something just right, in such a way that it will make anyone seeing shot say, “I’ve got to see that in person.” Here are some of the favorite photographs shot for us this year, picked by photo director Pia Peterson Haggarty and other members of our staff.

Wild Atlantic Way, Ireland

Pia Peterson Haggarty, Photo Director 

Robert Ormerod’s photographs of the Wild Atlantic Way in Ireland made me book a ticket – quite literally. After seeing his work, we took our first vacation as a family of three to Ireland and Northern Ireland later in the year. I didn’t make it to see the incredible Connemara ponies or the sheepherding demonstration that he was able to photograph for us, but I did see plenty of sheep – and had to jump out of the car multiple times for the views. 

Mirandaola Ironworks, Basque Country, Spain

Pia Peterson Haggarty, Photo Director 

At Lonely Planet, we see a lot of travel photography – which means a lot of beaches, a lot of greenery and a lot of viewpoints. Not that there’s anything wrong that with that…but you do tend to see the same or similar photos over and over again. This photograph by Blake Horn of the Mirandaola Ironworks in Spain’s Basque Country was fascinating because it’s something that you don’t see every day, scrolling. It’s a visit that you have to seek out. Mirandaola is one of the oldest foundries in the Basque Country, and the workers still wear outfits from the 16th century. They gave our video team a look at how metal was made into swords using techniques from over 500 years ago.

The Olympic Games, Paris, France

Pia Peterson Haggarty, Photo Director 

Before I was glued to my television all summer (Simone! Sha’Carri! pommel-horse guy!), Kate Devie photographed Paris for us, and we got a glimpse of the setup for the Paris Olympics. I am admittedly always a sucker for the Olympics – but these Paris Games felt especially magical and beautiful as the venues intertwined with the most famous landmarks. These photos were such a special preview of the festivities to come.

Picos de Europa National Park, Spain

Pia Peterson Haggarty, Photo Director 

Coke Bartrina went on an incredible road trip across Northern Spain and photographed it for Lonely Planet this past spring. He shot so many incredibly beautiful locations, from the Basque Country to Santiago de Compostela on the west coast – and just about everything in between. For some reason, this quiet moment (with a sandwich) while in Picos de Europa National Park is one I keep coming back to when I think about planning my own Spain trip. I can taste the salt in this photo – and I love it.

Cascatas de Fecha de Barjas, Portugal 

Chamidae Ford, Associate Writer

I tend to feel a pull toward destinations where I can swim. I find nothing better than jumping into a new body of water – and this image by Kerry Murray is forever stuck in my mind. Instantly, I had to know where it was (Gerês, Portugal) and how on earth I could experience it for myself as soon as possible (road trip). I love how this single image says so much. You see people laughing and lounging on the rocks. You know that the water is cool and the sun is hot. It is obvious that this swimming hole is an escape from the city and will take effort to find for yourself. To me, this image looks like the perfect summer afternoon – and one I would like to recreate. 

Osaka, Japan

 Ann Douglas Lott, Editor 

I got to watch newly commissioned images for our annual Best in Travel campaign flood into Lonely Planet’s collection. When Rintaro Kanemoto’s vibrant photos of Osaka first arrived, I felt like I’d jumped into a vintage postcard. I love everything about this photo: the symmetry, the contrast between light and dark, cool and warm. I think Wes Anderson would like it, too.

Edmonton, Alberta, Canada

Sasha Brady, Editor

I chose this photo because it stopped me in my tracks (pun intended!): a streetcar, apparently away from the city, being directed by a conductor in a wonderfully traditional uniform. I was convinced it had been mislabeled. Surely this wasn’t Edmonton? In 2024? But it was – and it made me curious about the city and its quirks, and what else it might be keeping to itself that I must check out. I adore any image that makes me approach a destination with a fresh perspective.

Puducherry, India

Akanksha Singh, Destination Editor for Central Asia and the Indian Subcontinent

Gabriela Bhaskar photographed the coastal town of Puducherry (Pondicherry) for Best in Travel, and captured its essence remarkably well. This photo is an unabashedly colorful slice of life. Though mildly chaotic for lovers of beige and gray, this scene opens up without feeling intrusive: you can feel the buzz, hear the conversations (or arguments!) and smell the flowers. Plus, it’s so layered – you see much more upon closer inspection.

Shikoku, Japan

Ethan Radtke, Senior Vice President

This photograph was taken this fall in Japan, at Ruafu Indigo Workshop in Tokushima in Shikoku. The women who work here teach and produce traditional shibori, an indigo tie-dye technique that has been around for centuries. The blue-stained hands in this picture really drew me in. There’s a dedication to an art form and connection that comes through that I like a lot. 

Picture yourself waking up on a sandy beach beside a turquoise underground lake, illuminated by sunlight pouring in through a giant skylight. Imagine finding yourself inside a natural cathedral made of sinuous stone, shaped by millions of years of erosion. Visualize yourself fording a subterranean river, and being stopped in your tracks by the sight of mist and clouds forming on the inside of the cave so vast that the brain struggles to comprehend its exact dimensions.

Every year, a few lucky visitors to Vietnam get to enjoy this very experience. The world’s largest cave, Hang Son Doong (Mountain River Cave) was discovered in the dense forests of Vietnam’s Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park in 1990 by a local man, Ho Khanh, as he was seeking shelter from a storm. The cave then lay forgotten until Khanh led British caver Howard Limbert and his team there in 2009 to map Hang Son Doong for the first time.

Hang Son Doong is vast. It’s so big that you can fit any of the world’s other largest caves comfortably inside it, as well as several 40-story skyscrapers. The cavern reaches 503m (1650ft) in height and 175m (574ft) in width and the cave system is 9.4km (5.8 miles) long, winding beneath karst mountains. Indeed, the cave is even larger than previously thought – in 2019, British divers explored Hang Son Doong’s underground waterways and discovered a tunnel linking the cave to Hang Thung, another huge cavern.

How can I visit Hang Son Doong?

The world’s biggest cavern can only be visited on pricey organized caving tours, and there are strict limits on the number of visitors admitted every year. But if you can’t stretch to the cost or time commitment of a Hang Son Doong expedition, surrounding Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park offers plenty of other cave-based adventures.

Covering 1233 sq km (476 sq miles), this UNESCO World Heritage Site bristles with some of the oldest karst mountains in Asia, riddled with extraordinary cave systems, which are the park’s top draws. Above-ground attractions include excellent jungle trekking, excursions into the picturesque countryside and sites linked to the American War – it’s certainly one of the highlights of a trip to Vietnam.

How do I book a Hang Son Doong expedition?

Howard Limbert helped to establish the adventure tour agency Oxalis in 2011, and in 2014 the company launched multi-day exploration tours of Hang Son Doong. Groups set up camp in the spectacular Hang En cave en route, taking a swim in its subterranean lake before descending into Hang Son Doong using safety harnesses.

You’ll spend two days exploring giant passages with vast rock formations, bathing in underground pools and streams, gazing upon areas of primeval forest growing inside the cave, and sleeping in scenic campsites beneath two dolines (giant sinkholes) that fill the cave with effervescent light. Wildlife sightings are common, from monkeys, flying foxes, snakes, bats and birds to endemic species of fish, shrimp and creepy crawlies that evolved to exist in complete darkness.

Access to the cave is limited to 1000 visitors per year, so demand for places is high. Each group of ten is led by at least one of the British cavers who took part in the original Hang Son Doong expedition, and bookings open for the caving season (January to late August) up to two years in advance. Realistically, you can expect to join a tour around 18 months from the date you book.

The four-day/three-night expedition costs US$3000 per person (of which US$620 goes towards the upkeep of Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park). This includes a pick-up and drop-off at the city of Dong Hoi (the nearest town with an airport) and the services of a cave expert, tour guide, safety assistants, cooks and porters, as well as food and drink, accommodation in tents, and all necessary safety equipment. However, you’ll need your own comprehensive travel insurance.

Are other caves in Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park worth exploring?

If you can’t join a Hang Son Doong expedition, consider joining an overnight trek with Oxalis to Hang En, another of the world’s largest caves. You’ll camp on a sandy beach beside an emerald pool inside the cave and trek through the primeval jungle to get here.

Oxalis also offers expeditions to the Tu Lan cave complex. Choose between overnight camping trips or multi-day expeditions that include abseiling into underground rivers, exploring Hang Tien, technical training in the darkest part of the cave and encounters with Nguon people in a remote mountain village.

Oxalis also offers a multi-day Hang Ba Deep Jungle Expedition, hiking through primary forest in search of wildlife such as gibbons, wildcats, langurs and wild boar, and exploring six caves that have only recently become open to guided tours.

Another operator is Jungle Boss, with various overnight and multi-day trips, including a three-day tour of Hang Thung, the giant cave linked to Hang Son Doong. Highlights include rappelling and camping by the Ma Da subterranean lake. There’s also an overnight trip to Hang Pygmy – the world’s fourth largest cavern – with paddleboarding on yet another spectacular subterranean lake.

What if I don’t have time for an overnight trip?

Time too tight for an overnight trip? From the village of Son Trach, you can day trip to Hang Tien, the largest of the dry caves in the Tu Lan system, where you can view astonishing calcite formations and rimstone pools. Alternatively, you can whizz above Hang Toi (Dark Cave) on a 400m-long (1312ft) zipline and squelch through thigh-deep mud in pitch darkness before finishing off with a kayaking session and a swim.

Visits to Phong Nha Cave involve a leisurely boat trip from Son Trach, passing rice paddies and limestone peaks before your craft glides silently past immense illuminated stalactites and stalagmites. If you climb the 330 steps to Tien Son Cave, you can view 9th-century inscriptions from the Cham era.

Even if caves are not generally your thing, Paradise Cave may change your mind. Electric buggies ferry visitors to this striking cavern surrounded by forested karst peaks. The small size of the cave entrance belies the staggering spectacle of the colossal cavern inside, flanked by otherworldly rock formations. Both Phong Nha Cave and Paradise Cave get busy with tour groups, so it’s best to visit first thing in the morning.

How should I choose a tour operator?

Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park is peppered with unexploded ordnance from the American War, and many areas can only be visited on foot with a licensed tour operator. Paradise Cave and Phong Nha Cave are accessible on day trips, but to see Hang Son Doong, Tu Lan, Hang En and some other caves, you’ll need to join an overnight trek with a licensed guide.

Oxalis is the exclusive operator for Hang Son Doong caving tours, and also runs multi-day jungle expeditions to Hang Ba, while Jungle Boss has exclusive rights to overnight treks to Hang Pygmy and three-day, two-night explorations of Tiger Cave. They also offer multi-day jungle treks and rappelling adventures to the base of Do Quyen waterfall. Ecofoot, led by knowledgeable jungle guide and conservationist Hai, arranges visits to the park’s Wildlife Rescue Centre and daytime and nighttime treks in the jungle.

When choosing an operator, ask about group sizes and the operator’s guide-to-client ratio, and confirm what exactly is included in the price. Many places to stay in Son Trach or Dong Hoi can arrange jungle treks inside Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park with independent local guides, but quality varies, so it’s worth asking other travelers for recommendations.

When should I go caving in Phong Nha-Ke Bang?

As with other parts of Vietnam, the best time to visit varies depending on what you plan to do and see. Winters (December to March) can be crisp and cold, with an equal number of sunny and rainy days, but Hang Son Doong has its own microclimate, and January and February are the best times for watching sunbeams penetrate deep inside the cave.

In late January or early February, all of Vietnam goes on vacation for the Tet festival, so it’s the busiest time of year to travel. Phong Nga residents celebrate Tet in a raucous way, sometimes using unexploded ordnance in place of fireworks and sharing jugs of rice wine with passers-by.

April to May is arguably the loveliest time to explore the national park; the weather warms up, the landscape turns a lush green and wildflowers are everywhere. You may also witness the phenomenon of clouds and mist forming inside Hang Son Doong.

Summer (June to August) is the hottest, most humid time of year, but the trekking trails to Hang Son Doong and other caves are shaded by tree cover. Inside Hang Son Doong, the temperature hovers at a balmy 22–25°C (72–77°F), and it’s warm enough to swim in the streams and underground lakes inside the cave. Autumn (September to November) brings tropical storms and heavy rain, with flooding in the jungle and inside river caves, so caving trips only run from January till late August.

How much time should I spend here?

If you’re taking part in a Hang Son Doong expedition, you need to set aside six days, but if you’re looking to just dabble in cave exploration and take in Phong Nha-Ke Bang’s above-ground attractions, you can pack a lot into four or five days. Consider an overnight trek to Hang En cave or the Tu Lan cave system, then take a day to explore the beautiful Bong Lai Valley by bicycle, followed by day trips to the Phong Nha Cave and Paradise Cave. Or perhaps combine an overnighter to Hang Pygmy with day jaunts to Hang Tien, Hang Toi, and the Bong Lai Valley.

Is it easy to get in and around Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park?

Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park spreads west to the border between Vietnam and Laos. It’s centered on Son Trach (also known as Phong Nha Village), a stop for most open-tour sleeper buses from Hanoi and Hoi An. Dong Hoi, 50km southeast of Son Trach, is the nearest city with a domestic airport, while the nearest international airports are in Danang and Hanoi.

Dong Hoi is also a stop on the train route between Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, with frequent public buses connecting Dong Hoi and Son Trach. Accommodations in Son Trach also organize private and shared car transfers to/from Dong Hoi, and you can also get here using motorcycle transfer services from Hanoi, Hue and Hoi An.

Exploring the more accessible parts of Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park is best done with your own wheels. Cycling or scootering is a wonderful way to traverse the rural roads on the fringes of the park; bicycle and scooter rental is available from guesthouses, homestays and hotels in Son Trach, and staff can sometimes provide maps. River taxis connect Son Trach with the beautiful, unspoiled Bon Lai Valley, and bicycles and motorbikes can be taken on board.

The condition of roads inside the park varies and routes are not well-signposted, though you can download route information from the independent website Vietnam Coracle. Consider joining a motorcycling tour with Thang Phong Nha Rider, with a knowledgeable, enthusiastic local team helping you discover the park’s highlights. They also arrange motorcycle transfers to destinations further afield, such as Hue or Khe Sanh.

Frequently asked questions

Do I need prior caving experience?

No prior caving experience is necessary; the expedition agency will take care of everything.

What gear should I bring?

Essentials include quick drying, long-sleeved shirts and trekking pants, breathable trekking shoes with good grip (rather than waterproof/Gore-Tex boots), warmer layers for winter months, and swimwear, shorts and T-shirts for summer. Other must-carry items include mosquito repellent, sun cream, antifungal cream, environmentally friendly personal hygiene items and a drybag and powerbanks for your electronic gear.

How physically fit do I need to be?

Some trekking experience is essential. In the year before a Hang Son Doong expedition, aim to complete at least one overnight trek and one or two day hikes of at least 8km that involve steep mountainous terrain. Take regular exercise to maintain an adequate level of fitness, as the Hang Son Doong expedition involves trekking on rocky terrain, some steep climbing, abseiling inside the cave, fording rivers and scrambling over large rocks.

Are there age restrictions on caving expeditions?

Most multi-day caving and jungle trek trips are open to participants aged 16 (or 18) to 70. However, Oxalis also offers day-long introductions to the Tu Lan cave for kids aged 6 and older.

What’s the accommodation like?

On overnight cave expeditions and jungle treks, you’ll sleep in tents, with drinks and meals provided by the operator. Camping equipment is transported to the campsites by porters. Many cave expeditions camp on sandy beaches beside underground rivers and lakes, providing opportunities for swimming.

What is the bathroom situation like?

Campsites inside the caves have eco-friendly composting toilets. There are no showers, but you can wash in cave rivers and lakes. Shampoo or soap should not be used, as it would contaminate the water; for some campsites, you’ll need dry shampoo and wet wipes.

Do I need to bring money on the trek?

There are few opportunities to spend money while you’re trekking, but infrastructure is limited in Son Trach, the village closest to the caves. There’s a single ATM, which is occasionally out of order, so bring plenty of cash to cover spending before and after your expedition.

Should I tip?

While tipping is not deeply ingrained in Vietnamese culture, it’s always appreciated. A standard gratuity for tour guides is around VND 100,000–200,000 per day (less for porters and cooks), depending on the length and complexity of the tour. Tip in the local currency, ideally in small denomination notes.

Mural-filled monasteries, snow-crowned peaks, ancient fortresses and tranquil Buddhist villages edged by chili farms – the stunning beauty of Bhutan is visible around every turn of its hairpin roads. As part of the country’s “high value, low volume” tourism model, there’s a fixed daily tourist fee of US$100, but the rewards speak for themselves.

Internationally famous for its commitment to “Gross National Happiness” and its carbon-negative status, Bhutan has worked hard to protect its unique culture and natural beauty. Nearly 70% of the country is blanketed in dense pine, oak and rhododendron forests, the country is rich in outdoor activities and charming villages showcase an undiluted Buddhist culture fast vanishing from other parts of the Himalayas.

While it can take hours of travel by road to reach each destination, the scenic drives (and those hair-raising bends) are all part of the experience of visiting this truly special place. For anyone interested in Himalayan scenery, mountain trekking, Buddhist spirituality and more, here are our picks for the best places to add to your Bhutan itinerary.

1. Paro

Best for hitting Bhutan’s highlights

Travelers careen between steep mountain slopes before their aircraft touches down at Paro International Airport, the gateway to the “Land of the Thunder Dragon.” Less than 10 minutes from the airport lies the historic riverside town of Paro, known for its National Museum, the dramatic Paro Dzong fortress and iconic Taktshang Goemba (Tiger’s Nest Monastery), accessible via a 6.4km (4-mile) hike.

Paro town is a place you will – and must – visit. Take time to wander the streets and visit the Paro Weekend Market to peruse shops and stalls selling Himalayan honey and handmade souvenirs. When you’ve worked up an appetite, stop into any number of restaurants – we rate Momo Corner for fresh, handmade momo dumplings.

Planning Tip: As the setting for Bhutan’s only international airport, Paro is usually the first or last stop on any Bhutan traveler’s itinerary. Whether you’ve just arrived or are wrapping up your trip, hire a car and a guide to take in the historical and religious sights spread around the Paro Valley.

2. Thimphu

Best for a taste of Bhutanese city life

Bhutan’s capital city beautifully combines culture with a cosmopolitan vibe. Spend the day creating your own stamps at the Bhutan Postal Museum, touring the massive Trashi Chho Dzong, circumnavigating the National Memorial Chorten and watching immaculately dressed policemen manually direct traffic (there are no traffic lights in the entire country).

When the sun dips below the mountains, enjoy the nightlife at bars and clubs such as Mojo Park and the Grey Area, a popular art bar with live music where you can chat with locals over a bottle or two of Bhutanese Red Panda beer or a glass of ara (a spirit distilled from rice).

Planning Tip: Be sure to take a walk in the hills around the capital. For an easy taster, a lovely, level walking trail follows the west side of the valley, linking the BSS communications tower to Wangditse Goemba.

3. Punakha

Best for experiencing rural life

Ringed by rustic riverside farms where cows graze among rice and chili fields, Punakha is one of the most beautiful places in Bhutan – home to what is arguably the country’s most spectacular dzong (monastery-fortress), sitting majestically beside the sacred confluence of two rivers.

Life in Punakha revolves around the rivers that meet at its heart. For the best river views, take a short walk from Punakha Dzong to one of the country’s largest suspension bridges, wrapped with fluttering prayer flags. Travelers can also go white-water rafting over the rapids of the Po Chhu and Mo Chhu rivers.

Planning Tip: Punakha’s low elevation (1242m/4075ft) means that temperatures tend to be warmer than in nearby towns and districts – you’ll need fewer layers and more sunscreen.

4. Khoma

Best for discovering traditional textiles

Adventurous travelers can peek behind the curtain – or perhaps that should be shawl – in Khoma, Bhutan’s textile hub. In the eastern district of Lhuentse, this village is home to roughly 100 residents and zero cars, and local artisans spend their days weaving ornate patterns and traditional Buddhist motifs on wooden looms, using dyes made from minerals and plants harvested in the area.

5. Phobjikha Valley

Best for outdoor activities and birdlife

Drive past mountain meadows dotted with yaks to reach one of Bhutan’s most sacred places. Tranquility and peace emanate from the Phobjikha Valley and its main attraction, Gangte Goemba, a 17th-century monastery gazing out over the valley’s fertile farmland. This is also one of the easiest places to spot endangered black-necked cranes.

The monastery is gorgeous but it’s Gangte’s natural beauty that really stands out. You can hike myriad trails, many with relatively flat stretches where you can focus on the views rather than exertion. Archery, mountain biking, camping, birding and picnics are other popular activities.

Planning Tip: Naturalists should aim to visit between late October and mid-March to see the elegant black-necked cranes that gather here on their migration route from Tibet.

6. Dochu La

Best for a pit stop with a view

We’ll bet you 100 Bhutanese ngultrum that this scenic rest stop will make an appearance on your Bhutan itinerary. Hailed as one of the best lookouts in Bhutan, this mountain pass lies on the route from Thimphu to Punakha, and almost everyone traveling on this road pauses to admire the view.

On a clear day, sparkling views of Himalayan peaks await, and the pass is marked by 108 stupas – a sacred number in Buddhism – honoring the Royal Bhutanese soldiers who died battling Assamese insurgents in 2003. On the opposite side of the road, stop into the dainty Druk Wangyal Lhakhang then visit the restaurant at the pass for coffee, cakes and momos.

7. Laya

Best for off-the-beaten-track adventures

The arduous seven-hour drive from Thimphu to Gasa only takes you part of the way to this remote northwestern village. From Gasa, you’ll strap on your hiking boots and trek for three to five hours uphill to the highest permanently occupied village in the country.

But the views of the Himalayan peaks are worth it. Home to the Indigenous Layap people, this pedestrian-only village is filled with yak herders, collectors of cordyceps (an insect-infecting fungus hailed as an aphrodisiac) and elders who honor ancient traditions.

Planning Tip: Try to arrange your trip to coincide with the famous Royal Highland Festival in late October, when you’ll witness one of Bhutan’s most culturally unique events, marked by livestock contests, dancing and traditional songs. 

8. Bumthang

Best for spirituality seekers

This centrally located and mountainous district is also one of the country’s most spiritual quarters. Spread over four valleys, important sites include Jampey Lhakhang, a historic 7th-century Buddhist temple, and the Jakar Dzong, an auspicious fortress built in 1549.

Rest your legs and indulge in some fresh cheese and jams at the Bumthang Swiss Cheese factory, followed by a local beer next door at the brewery that produces Red Panda beer. The Bumthang Jakar Tsechu festival in October/November is one of Bhutan’s most colorful celebrations, featuring evocative masked dances.

Planning Tip: The drive from Thimphu to Bumthang takes many hours over often treacherous roads. If you’re pressed for time – or prone to motion sickness – consider a domestic flight to Bumthang’s tiny airport from Paro.

9. Haa Valley

Best for immersing yourself in nature

While there’s no shortage of postcard-worthy vistas in Bhutan, the Haa Valley is in a league of its own. Close to the China–India border, about three hours from Paro, you’ll find some of the country’s most spectacular hiking trails, which meander through lush green valleys and monastery-dotted villages.

Covered in alpine forests and jagged mountain peaks, this small section of the country is also one of the most unspoiled. Travelers can take off on the one-day Haa Panoramic Hiking Trail or the three-day Sagala Trek, or simply sit by the Haa River and take in 360-degree views of pristine nature.

Campania is Italy in a double espresso shot: hot, feisty, passionate, loud, intense and big-hearted. Whether you’re walking in the footsteps of toga-wearing Romans through ancient ruins, clambering up the volcanic crater of smoldering Mt Vesuvius, or feasting on pizza, Caravaggio and street art in Naples, this could well be the Italy of your wildest dreams. All the drama and decadence of Italian life is crammed into this southern region.

As you helter-skelter along the cinematically beautiful coastal roads of the Amalfi Coast, where cliffs drop to pastel-painted villages and the glittering blue Tyrrhenian Sea, and swim in the azure waters of Capri, you’ll gain a deep understanding of la dolce vita. After all, when life gives Campania lemons, it makes limoncello (lemon liqueur). 

Read on for our favorite things to do to get a real flavor of the region. 

1. Strike a pose on Capri

Benvenuto (welcome) to the supermodel of the Italian islands. You’ve heard the hype and you can believe it. Off the west coast of the Sorrento Peninsula, Capri is off-the-charts beautiful. With roads rollercoasting down to the bluest-of-blue seas, steep cliffs punching above gold-sand bays, bougainvillea-swathed villas, and yacht harbors as polished as the mega-rich people frequenting them, this island is the classic Italian heart-stealer. 

You’ll find your own magic on these shores, but special moments are bound to include hiking or hopping into the chairlift to 589m-high (1932ft) Monte Solaro for mood-lifting views over the Bay of Naples, roaming through the flowery terraces of Giardini di Augusto in cinematically pretty Capri Town, and swimming among the ruins of a Roman villa at Bagni di Tiberio.

Planning tip: You can easily tack Capri on as a day trip from Naples or, quicker still, by hydrofoil from Sorrento, but you’ll wish you had spent the week. Come in the low season for fewer crowds and less excruciating prices. 

2. Rewind to ancient Greece at Paestum

Everyone raves about Athens, but there are rich pickings in Campania, too. Top billing goes to Paestum, a staggering archaeological site harboring three of Europe’s best-preserved ancient Greek temples. Originally called Poseidonia, as an ode to the Greek god of the sea, Paestum was founded by Greek settlers in the 6th-century BCE and fell into Roman hands in 273 BCE.

Now a UNESCO World Heritage site, Paestum is a joy to explore on foot – and a less crowded alternative to Pompeii if you’re craving a shot of history. Go for a wander and rewind back 2500 years in time contemplating the soaring Doric columns of the temples, which include Tempio di Cerere, dedicated to goddess Athena, and the astonishingly well-preserved Tempio di Nettuno, honoring Neptune.

Planning tip: For a primer on history, dip into the museum, which spans two floors and sheltering a fascinating collection of bas-relief friezes, frescoes, ceramics and artefacts.

3. Trek around Mt Vesuvius

Looming large above the Bay of Naples, Mt Vesuvius makes one hell of an impression. This whopper of a volcano – part of a volcanic chain thought to be around 400,000 years old – last blew its top in 1944 (and for real in 1631). Another full-scale eruption would be catastrophic, so it’s carefully monitored these days, with more than half a million people living in the “red zone”.

Get a taste of its smoldering beauty by latching onto one of the nine nature trails in the Parco Nazionale del Vesuvio. Favorites include full-day, 12km (7-mile) trail No. 1 through the “Valley of Hell,” taking in the volcano from striking angles as you trudge through rocky terrain stippled with broom, stone pine, chestnut and holm oak woods (listen for woodpeckers). Or go straight for the top: trail No. 5 to Great Cono, a gentle stomp around the crater that takes in lapilli and lava flows produced when the volcano erupted in 1944. From the crater, there are tremendous views of the city and Gulf of Naples to the mountains beyond.

Planning tip: Maps and details of the trails are available on the national park website. Start hiking early before the heat rises.

4. Find perfect pizza in Napoli

The pizza contest between Roma and Napoli has raged for centuries (exact sources quibble over precisely how long). One thing’s for sure: Rome likes its pizza thin, crisp and piled high with toppings, while Naples prefers a softer, fluffier, gooier base with less on top. Whether you scoff them on the street or straight out of a wood-fired oven in a family-run pizzeria, you’ll find real gold here.

You could pound Naples’ sultry streets for ages seeking your own faves, but our vote goes to the likes of slow-food Concettina ai Tre Santi in the beating heart of the working-class district of La Sanità. In Oliva family hands for generations, it’s now pizzaiolo (pizza maker) Ciro Oliva who takes pride in baking flawless bases and sourcing finest local produce for his toppings. Pizzas are paired with local craft beers and wines.

Local tip: Want to keep it simple? Swing by L’ Antica Pizzeria da Michele, where fabulous margherita and marinara pizzas (that’s right, just two kinds) fly out of the oven quicker than you can say delizioso! Founded in 1870, the pizzeria shot to fame when Julia Roberts ate pizza here in the 2010 film Eat, Pray, Love.

5. Escape the crowds on Procida

Never heard of Procida? You are not alone, but you are missing out. So let us fill you in. This little speck of a volcanic island in the Bay of Naples is often overlooked in the mad dash to its sister isles Capri and Ischia, but don’t make that mistake. Procida is special, with none of the glamour and clamor of nearby islands and an enticingly authentic feel. Avoid peak summer (especially August) and you’ll often find yourself largely alone on its cliff-wrapped coves, in sun-bleached streets full of friendly chatter and in pastel-painted marinas where humble taverns dish up inexpensive seafood and fisherfolk mend their nets. Renaissance palaces, baroque churches, pretty backdrops that starred in the 1994 film Il Postino – this dinky isle has the lot.

With hydrofoils speeding across to Naples in just 25 minutes, you could rush straight off, but the island is a slow-burner. Linger and it will be those lovely snapshots of daily life you’ll remember most.

Local tip: With a rich fishing heritage and rocky coast, Procida is shaped and defined by the sea. One of the best ways to get out and explore is by sea kayak.

6. Climb the clifftop streets of Positano

The poster child of the Amalfi Coast, insanely gorgeous Positano’s views (and glitzy five-star hotels) have sent poets, artists, writers and celebrities into raptures, John Steinbeck, Picasso, Klee, Liz Taylor, Mick Jagger and Taylor Swift among them.

Romantic? You bet. Looks-wise, the town is a knockout, with pastel-painted, flower-draped houses spilling down a cliffside to the brilliant blues of the Tyrrhenian Sea. Hacked into the rock, its maze of steep streets and staircases crack open the kind of views that hoover up Instagram likes. Bring flat shoes for stiff climbs.

Local tip: Lemons – Positano is famous for them, especially when they add zing to local limoncello and marmalades. Some of the best are sold at Valenti.

7. Escape to Parco Nazionale del Cilento, Vallo di Diano e Alburni 

Wave the crowds further north arrivederci and tiptoe quietly into the wondrously pretty Parco Nazionale del Cilento, Vallo di Diano e Alburni. A breath of fresh air after the buzz of Naples or the sun-bronzed hordes of the Amalfi Coast, this national park is all about slipping back to nature in woods, flower-freckled meadows, river valleys and ochre-colored hilltop villages where the out-of-tune bells of campaniles toll. All of this is set against the rugged drama of the Alburi range, dubbed the “Dolomites of Southern Italy.”

Nature trails take you properly off the beaten track, but don’t expect them to be brilliantly signposted. The exception to the rule is the path to the highest peak, 1742m (5715ft) Monte Alburno. There are two waymarked trails to the summit from the center of Sicignano degli Alburni (allow four hours for either). The park is also honeycombed with caves, including the otherworldly and unmissable Grotte di Castelcivita. Inhabited 42,000 years ago, these fantasy grottoes are a forest of stalagmites and stalactites. 

Planning tip: Come for the springtime eruption of wildflowers, when the park is a fragrant, vibrantly colored mass of narcissi, wild orchids, tulips and poppies.

8. Hike the Sentiero degli Dei

Lace up boots to hook onto the Amalfi Coast’s Sentiero degli Dei (Path of the Gods) for a heavenly feast of southern Italian landscapes, with swoon-worthy views of the rugged, densely wooded Lattari mountains sheering down to the inky-blue Mediterranean, candy-colored villages staggering down hillsides and distant glimpses of Capri. You can nail it in half a day, but with scenery like this, why rush? Pack a picnic and grab a map of the walk from local tourist offices.

Following an elevated, often rocky mule trail linking Agerola (Bomerano) to Nocelle, before tripping down 1700 stone steps to postcard-perfect Positano. The path unzips some of the area’s least-developed countryside with minimal effort and is immediately spectacular. You’ll traipse past terraced hillsides, lemon orchards and fragrant macchia (scrub) of rosemary and holm oak. A flight of 1500 steps trips gleefully down to Arienzo, where you can pause for a cooling dip, seafood lunch and cocktail at the beach club. The sunsets here are something else.

Planning tip: An easy to moderate hike, the 8km (5-mile) trail takes three to five hours to complete. Get an early start and dodge the worst of the crowds and heat by trekking it in the shoulder seasons (March to mid-June and September to October).

9. Time travel through Pompeii

As the first morning lights up the ruins of Pompeii, you might be moved to tears, or at least wide-eyed wonder.  In the shadow of Mt Vesuvius – the volcano that destroyed this once thriving Roman town when it spectacularly erupted back in 79 CE – this vast archaeological site touches deep. Buried under layers of molten lava, ash and lapilli (burning fragments of pumice stone), the ruined city is so remarkably well preserved you can still see the grooves from chariot wheels in the uneven cobbled lanes and vividly picture how life must have been roaming around its marketplaces, bathhouses, temples, frescoed villas, and amphitheaters where gladiators did bloody battle. There’s even a brothel festooned with erotic art.

Part of the beauty of Pompeii is exploring it with no fixed plan, but you won’t want to miss showstoppers like the restored, 90-room Villa dei Misteri, with its Dionysiac frieze depicting a bride-to-be into the cult of Dionysus, and the Terme Stabiane bathing complex, with its stuccoed vault adorned with putti (winged cherubs) and nymphs.

Planning tip: Arrive as Pompeii opens to sneak in before most visitors arrive. Sidestep the biggest crowds by coming during the low season (November to March).

10.  Go for a backstreet tour of Naples

Hot, rough around the edges and fizzing with energy, Naples’ true charisma only becomes apparent when you stray beyond big-hitters like the Gallerie d’Italia and its Caravaggio masterpieces. To really feel the city’s pulse, dive into the backstreets, strung with drying laundry, filled with spluttering vespas and alive with neighborly banter, stopping for an espresso on a cafe terrace, a bite of pizza on the hoof or an aperitivo (pre-dinner drink) as the sun plops into the sea.

There are lots of great tours to get you started. If you’re into your food, try Culinary Backstreets, offering a five-hour, button-busting spin of the centro storico (historic center) and beyond, ticking off everything from market to pizzeria, patisserie (for shell-shaped, cream-filled sfogliatella pastries) and baccaleria (for salt cod). If art and culture rock your boat more than food, look up Napoli Paint Stories for street-art tours and Looking for Lila for an eye-opening romp through the city’s lesser-known streets and hidden courtyards.

11.  Fall for the beauty of the Sorrento Peninsula

All of Campania is lovely, but the Sorrento Peninsula is the dream, taking its name from the sirens, mythical sea-nymphs who lured sailors to their death with the sweetest of songs. The landscapes are equally fantastical: hairpin roads whip along sheer cliff edges to olive and lemon groves, villages in a fresco painter’s palette of pastels cling to sheer rock walls, and life moves to a relaxed beat in tiny fishing ports.

Once a stop on the 19th-century Grand Tour, Sorrento itself is crazily romantic for a coffee on the piazza or a passeggiata (stroll) in the gold-pinks of sunset. Lord Byron, Keats, Goethe and Dickens found plenty of poetic inspiration here. But it’s the peninsula’s rugged, cove-indented south that will really grab you, with turquoise bays like Baia di Leranto, where you can swim, snorkel and kayak, and Punta Campanella at the very tip, with sublime views out to Capri. Here you can walk trails through the fragrant macchia or dive into electric-blue waters to explore ancient ruins and underwater grottoes. 

12.  Roam the ruins of Herculaneum

Just a quick hop south of Naples, Herculaneum is a spellbinding archaeological site that suffered a similar fate to that of its more-hyped sister, Pompeii, namely being buried by under a 16-m-thick (52ft) layer of molten lava, gas, ash and mud when Mt Vesuvius erupted big time in 79 CE. The pyroclastic flow fossilized the Roman fishing town of 4000 inhabitants, which means the ruins you see today are extraordinarily intact, from mosaics, clothing and furniture to terror-stricken skeletons.

A couple of hours here wings you back to Roman times and gives you a proper glimpse of how life would have been, as you zoom in on highlights like the Casa di Nettuno e Anfitrite, where a lavish mosaic-tiled nymphaeum (fountain and bath as a shrine to the water nymph) depicts the sea god and his bride, the Terme Maschili bathhouse, complete with a shelf for storing sandals and togas, and the Casa del Bel Cortile (House of the Beautiful Courtyard), sheltering three of the 300 skeletons, which were unearthed in 1980, almost two millennia after the eruption.

Planning tip: For more insight, jump the lines and join a two-hour guided tour with an archaeologist.