Archives December 2023

Sensational Sydney has enough appeal to make even the most hardened visitor consider a one-way move.

And that comes before you learn that the New South Wales capital’s surrounding region brims breathtaking natural beauty, Aboriginal and colonial history, and plenty of domestic critters to spot.

In short, this city and its environs have it all.

The Blue Mountains draw walkers with epic, bush-clad vistas and prehistoric forests in hidden valleys. The Hawkesbury River region and the Royal National Park both offer spectacular walking with water views. The Central Coast stretches north with uncrowded surf beaches and inlets rich with sea birds. And the Hunter Valley is blessed with leafy country roads dotted with producers of fine wine, chocolates and cheese.

Some of the richest experiences in all of Australia, these are the best day trips from Sydney.

1. See Aboriginal rock art and birdlife in Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park

Travel time: 1 hour by car, 2 hours by bus

The majestic Hawkesbury River flows to the ocean past honeycomb-colored cliffs and historic townships, and into quiet bays and inlets. Along its course, it passes through a series of national parks, including the spectacular Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park. Preserved since 1894, the park takes its name from its original inhabitants, the Guringai people. Remnants of pre-colonial Aboriginal life are visible today thanks to the preservation of more than 800 sites, including rock paintings, middens and cave art.

For information about Ku-ring-gai and walks in the area stop by the NSW National Parks & Wildlife Service information center at Bobbin Head (accessible by car). There’s also a marina, picnic areas, a cafe and a boardwalk leading through mangroves here.

Further inland, t​he riverside hamlet of Wisemans Ferry (yes, that’s the town’s name) spills over a bow of the Hawkesbury River. It’s another perfect spot to access the Hawkesbury, and its rich ecosystem of with bird life including kookaburras and sea eagles.

The surrounding area retains remnants of the convict-built Great North Road, originally constructed to link Sydney with the Hunter Valley and now part of UNESCO’s Australian Convict Sites World Heritage listing. As well as walks, consider booking a boat tour or hiring a kayak to get out on the river. Even better, if you have the time: do as Sydney locals do and stay longer on a houseboat.

How to get to Hawkesbury River from Sydney:

Take the train from Central Station to Hawkesbury River Station to explore the river by boat. Buses also run from central Sydney’s Wynyard to Mona Vale and then on to ​​Church Point, where you can get a ferry across to the park.

2. Savor the finer things in life around the Hunter Valley

Travel time: a full-day roundtrip by car or coach tour

While picturesque roads crisscross this verdant valley, a country drive isn’t the main reason to visit. Over two hours by car from Sydney, the Hunter Valley is famous as Australia’s oldest wine region, with some vines dating from the 1860s. It’s the perfect spot for anyone who appreciates fine wine, gourmet restaurants, boutique beer, chocolate, cheese, olives…you name it. It’s also a beautiful spot to go hot-air ballooning while in Australia.

You’ll probably recognize some of Australia’s biggest names in new-world wines, especially for sémillon, shiraz and chardonnay. The valley’s 150-plus wineries range from small-scale, family-run affairs to massive commercial operations – so let your nose guide you. Most offer cellar door tastings either free or for a small fee. You can get a copy of the free touring map from the Hunter Valley visitor center and use it to seek out the tucked-away small producers.

If no one’s volunteering to be the designated driver, you can book one of many guided coach tours, which range from minibuses that just do basic hop-on-hop-off transport between wineries to full-on gourmet extravaganzas, some on bicycle, horseback or in a chauffeured classic car.

How to get to the Hunter Valley from Sydney:

If driving, take the M1 Pacific Motorway north from Sydney to Newcastle, where the Hunter Expressway will lead you into the valley.

3. Hike rainforests, cliffs and waterfalls in the Blue Mountains

Travel time: 1½ hours by car, 2 hours by train

The cool blue haze that gives the World Heritage–listed Blue Mountains their name comes from a fine mist of oil exuded by huge eucalyptus trees. The mountains are protected by eight connected conservation areas that rise as high as 1100m (3609ft), with lush rainforests and epic waterfalls that can be explored on well-marked hikes of varying lengths.

Trees form a dense canopy across a landscape of deep, and sometimes inaccessible, valleys and chiseled sandstone outcrops. In fact, some valleys are so hard to reach, a species of tree once considered extinct, the Wollemi pine, was rediscovered in a valley here in 1994.

The three most popular walking areas for day trippers are the Jamison Valley, south of Katoomba, the Grose Valley, north of Blackheath, and the Wentworth Falls area. Some top choices include the Giant Stairway and the Grand Canyon Walk, but check the NSW National Parks site for track conditions and closures. Note that these ravines can be surprisingly cool throughout the year, so bring a warm layer.

These are the homelands of six Aboriginal groups – the Darug, Gundungurra, Wiradjuri, Wanaruah, Darkinjung and Tharawal – and you can gain insights into the mountains’ importance to their traditional Aboriginal custodians by taking a guided walk such as the Buuynal Tour at Scenic World. You’ll see one of the best showcases of Aboriginal rock art in the region at Red Hand Caves near Glenbook.

How to get to the Blue Mountains from Sydney:

Hourly trains to Katoomba take two hours from Sydney’s Central Station. You start your walk through the forest right from here, or catch the Blue Mountains Explorer Bus to tour the region, with options ranging from one-hour tours to all-day hop-on-hop-off tickets to see it all.

4. Get hiking, canoeing and photographing in the Royal National Park

Travel time: 1 hour by car, 2 hours via train and ferry

To Sydney’s south, the Royal National Park protects 15,091 hectares (37,290 acres) over a 32km (20-mile) stretch of beautiful coast. Constituted in 1879, it is also one of the world’s oldest national parks. As well as secluded beaches, sea cliffs, heathlands and forest, the park protects a cornucopia of Australian animals including wallabies, lyrebirds and raucous flocks of yellow-tailed black cockatoos.

At the junction of Kangaroo Creek and the Hacking River, Audley is home to the main visitor center and is the perfect place to pick up park maps, enjoy a picnic or hire a canoe to get out on the river. There are a number of walks to tackle in the park – especially the fabulous 26km (16-mile) Coast Track – but unless you’re Usain Bolt, you will only have time to complete one of the shorter marked trails on a day trip.

The park is also home to the Insta-famous Figure Eight Pools, a series of tidal pools that are indeed shaped like the number “8,” near Burning Palms Beach. Only visible and safe to visit at low tide, the pools can be reached via a two-hour hike to the rock shelf. Check tide times and conditions before heading out, as waves can (and do!) wipe out visitors, causing major injuries. Check the National Park website for details.

How to get to the Royal National Park from Sydney:

The easiest way to visit is by car; an entry fee of $12 (US$7.75) per vehicle per day applies. If you’re counting on public transport, take the train from Sydney’s Central Station to Cronulla (45–60 minutes), from where Cronulla Ferries travel hourly to Bundeena (45 mins).

5. Discover secret beaches and forests along the Central Coast

Travel time: a full-day roundtrip by car

Running between Sydney and Newcastle, the Central Coast includes some gorgeous beaches, swathes of national park and a series of inlets and saltwater lagoons. Closer to Sydney, the southern end of the Central Coast near Ettalong can be accessed by ferry from Sydney’s Palm Beach. On the north side of the mouth of the Hawkesbury are enticing Killcare Beach, Pearl Beach and Bouddi National Park.

Beyond this point, you’ll need a car – and you’ll be glad to have one, thanks to all the epic spots for stopping off on the ride north, including the pelican-packed town of The Entrance and deep, placid Lake Macquarie. Popular beaches to take a dip along the way include Avoca or Terrigal.

Newcastle is blessed with an eclectic mix of historic architecture, as well as a much-loved beach and ocean baths. South of Newcastle Beach and below King Edward Park is Australia’s oldest ocean bath, the convict-carved Bogey Hole. It’s an atmospheric place to splash about in when the surf’s crashing over its edge. The most popular surfing breaks are at Bar Beach and Merewether Beach, two ends of the same beach a bit further south. Merewether has huge ocean baths of its own.

How to get to the Central Coast from Sydney:

If driving, take the M1 Pacific Motorway north toward Newcastle from Sydney; the Gosford exit will take you to the road along the coast.

Adrenaline-pumping activities, pristine beaches, untamed forests, show-stopping wildlife and a culture of welcoming visitors all serve to make Costa Rica an irresistible destination for adventurous travelers.

In 2019, Costa Rica received the Champions of the Earth award, the United Nation’s highest environmental honor – high praise indeed!

You’ll hear the term “pura vida” – literally, “pure life” – everywhere you go in Costa Rica. More than just a phrase, it’s a philosophy of living in the moment, finding joy in simple things and respecting nature. Most visitors quickly fall in love with the Ticos’ unhurried way of life.

But how safe is travel in Costa Rica, what do you need to pack and what do you need to know about the local etiquette? Here’s our guide to the most important things you need to know before you go.

1. How much time do I need in Costa Rica?

You could stay for weeks in Costa Rica without running out of things to do, but you can also squeeze a lot into a week if time is short. If you’re traveling to this accessible corner of Central America from the US, you can enjoy even shorter trips, perhaps even a long weekend.

But remember, although the country appears to be small, getting around will take longer than you think.

If you’re short of time and looking for memorable outdoor adventures, head to either La Fortuna and the Arenal volcano, or the dense forests of Monteverde. If you’re craving a beach break, fly into Liberia – close to the beaches lining the Pacific Coast – rather than San José.

On the Pacific shore, you can combine surf and jungle adventures in as little as a week; if you have longer, go off-the-beaten track on the biodiverse Osa Peninsula or explore the wild beaches along the Caribbean coast.

2. Costa Rica has two seasons but pack for four

Officially, Costa Rica has two seasons. The dry season runs from December to March – the driest and hottest month, when the temperature hovers around 35°C (95°F). The rainy season runs from May through to November, with September and October being the wettest months.

But the country has a multitude of microclimates. Rainforest trails tend to be hot and steamy, but it can get chilly when you enter Costa Rica’s lofty cloud forests.

Alongside T-shirts, shorts and flip-flops, pack a raincoat and a fleece or warm jacket, waterproof hiking boots, closed-toe hiking sandals, a rash guard and lightweight, quick-dry clothing.

Rain can arrive without warning so bring a dry bag or other waterproof gear to protect your valuables. Don’t forget high-factor, water-resistant sunscreen and bug spray; both will be cheaper at home.

3. Plan ahead if you’re traveling at peak times

Book your accommodation well in advance if you plan to visit Costa Rica at peak times such as Christmas, New Year, Easter or the US spring break. Prices also rise during major festivals and events, and high-end restaurants and popular tours should be booked ahead of time.

4. Carry a mix of cards and cash

The colón is Costa Rica’s official currency, but US dollars are widely accepted. Carry a mix of both, with a stash of small bills for tipping, taxis, small shops and local restaurants. You can pay for everything else with credit and debit cards.

5. To tip or not to tip?

Tipping is optional in Costa Rica but a tip is much appreciated by hard-working guides and drivers. Aim for around 10% of the tour price, or more if the service is exceptional. Restaurants are required to add a 10% service tax to your bill as well as a 13% sales tax, but top it up if you feel your server went the extra mile.

6. Do I need to speak the lingo?

English is widely spoken in Costa Rica, but a little Spanish goes a long way. Rolling out a few polite phrases will be met by big smiles from locals. Add the phrases buenos días (good morning), por favor (please) and gracias (thank you) to your lexicon.

Another useful Ticos phrase is pura vida, which can be used to say everything from “hello” and “goodbye” to “what’s up?” or “that’s great.”

7. Respect the flora and fauna

Costa Rica is famed for its dazzling biodiversity. This small Central American nation is home to an estimated 5% of the world’s plant and animal species, with around 28% of its landmass under protection.

Locals take conservation seriously; Costa Rica generates 99% of its electricity from renewables and aims to be carbon neutral by 2050.

To play your part, choose lodgings with sustainable practices (look out for the Certification of Sustainable Tourism), travel with ethical tour guides and eat local. Always keep your distance from wild animals – use a zoom lens or binoculars to see wildlife up close.

Costa Rica was the first country to launch a #stopanimalselfies campaign, so decline offers of photo opportunities with animals. And national parks have banned single-use plastics, so carry a reusable water bottle.

8. Is Costa Rica safe?

Costa Rica is generally safe, although petty crime does occur. Take the usual precautions and don’t flash expensive possessions.

Avoid carrying all your credit cards together in one place, and if you need an ATM, try to use one inside a bank during the daytime. Foreign visitors are asked to carry their passports at all times but the police will usually accept a photocopy.

Watch out for pickpockets in busy areas, such as bus stations and markets, and keep an eye on your belongings on buses and beaches. Steer clear of poorly lit streets and avoid wandering around dodgy neighborhoods alone after dark – seek local advice on spots to avoid.

If you visit bars and clubs, don’t leave your drink unattended, as there have been reports of spiking. In case of emergency, call 911.

9. Don’t climb Arenal Volcano

Up until 2010, Volcán Arenal’s lava pyrotechnics thrilled onlookers. Now in a resting phase, its picture-perfect cone may look ready for climbing, but resist the temptation unless you’re a permit-carrying volcanologist – it’s illegal and could get you fined.

Instead, you can crunch over its lava-covered lower slopes on a variety of hiking trails or get active in the surrounding national park. Make time for mountain biking, horseback riding, rappelling and ziplining, or kayaking and windsurfing on nearby Lake Arenal, then relax in the region’s natural hot springs.

10. Keep healthy and avoid bug bites

Costa Rica’s healthcare system is ranked among the best in the world (according to the United Nations and the World Health Organisation), but you’ll have to pay for treatment, so it’s always wise to take out travel insurance with cover for medical care.

Malaria is rare but local mosquitoes can carry other nasty diseases such as dengue and Zika, particularly in low-lying urban areas and along the coast. The best way to avoid bug bites is to use insect repellent containing at least 20% DEET (diethyltoluamide), covering up bare skin, particularly in the evenings.

11. Stay safe in the surf

Costa Rica is a great place to surf, with cool surf camps and year-round rollers along the Pacific Coast. Playa Hermosa on the Nicoya Peninsula was declared Central America’s first World Surfing Reserve in 2022.

However, rip currents are common and you won’t always find lifeguards around, so look out for warning flags – a red flag indicates a danger zone, black means stay out of the water.

Don’t swim or surf alone. If a current starts to drag you out to sea, try to keep calm, shout for help, and swim parallel to the shore until you escape the current. And always check that rivers and lagoons are crocodile-free before diving in.

12. Be careful on the roads

Self-driving a hire car in Costa Rica offers the freedom to travel at your own pace, but there are a few things to consider. Most rental agencies require drivers to have comprehensive insurance in addition to purchasing mandatory liability insurance.

A 4WD is a must if you’re planning to tackle dirt roads; always check the vehicle’s condition and ensure it has all the necessary safety equipment, including a functional spare tire.

On the road, drive slowly and defensively. In case of a breakdown, call the rental company or 911; it can be risky to accept unsolicited help from strangers.

Never leave valuables unattended in your car, and try to use public parking lots with surveillance. Road trips always take longer than you think, so plan your journey ahead to avoid driving after dark.

13. Tap water is usually safe

With Costa Rica’s heat and humidity, it’s important to stay hydrated, especially if you’re doing anything active.

Tap water is normally safe to drink but if you’re going to remote rural areas or you’d rather not take the risk, save the environment (and some money) by investing in a water filter bottle such as the LifeStraw Go.

Natural wonders appear everywhere you turn in Vietnam. If you take an atmospheric ride on one of Vietnam’s long-distance trains – the Reunification Express, perhaps, linking Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC) – you’ll witness an endless patchwork of almost impossibly green rice paddy fields, broken up by sand-lined bays and highlands cloaked in dense forest.

Then there are the coastal karst islands of Halong Bay, Lan Ha Bay and Bai Tu Long Bay – a vision of ethereal beauty, whether viewed from a cruising junk or a bobbing kayak. At Mui Ne in the deep south, you can wonder at a Sahara-esque landscape of wind-sculpted dunes from the basket of a hot-air balloon. In the stupendous karst mountains of the far north, bewitching natural landscapes unfold around every corner.

To help you build a trip around bounteous nature, here are our favorite natural wonders in Vietnam.

1. Halong Bay

Best for coastal views

With its stunning combination of karst limestone islands and sheltered, shimmering seas, it’s no surprise that Halong Bay is one of Vietnam’s top tourist draws. But with more than 2000 greenery-capped limestone islands to explore, there’s plenty of superb scenery to go around.

To maximize the gazing time, book an overnight cruise around the bay and make your own special moments in this World Heritage-listed natural wonder. Rise early for an ethereal misty dawn, or pilot a kayak into the mouths of flooded grottoes and across secret lagoons.

Detour: If you’re hankering for more karst action, move on to less touristy but equally spectacular Lan Ha Bay. Most tourists visit on a one-night cruise, but if you can, consider a longer 2- or 3-night trip to see more of the islands, with more time for kayaking, hiking and swimming.

2. Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park

Best for underground adventures

With jagged highlands shrouded in rainforest, and mountain rivers coursing through impressive ravines, Phong Nha-Ke Bang is one of Vietnam’s most spectacular national parks. Head underground for even more proof that this wonderful natural area belongs on any Vietnamese itinerary. We’ve given legendary Hang Son Doong its own entry later in our list, but the world’s largest cave is just the showpiece of a national park that is worm-holed with caverns.

Amongst the more accessible caves at Phong Nha-Ke Bang are Hang Toi (Dark Cave), an atmospheric hub for ziplining and kayaking, and aptly named Paradise Cave, an other-worldly beauty filled with giant stalactites and stalagmites.

Planning Tip: The easiest way to explore Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park is on organized tours from the town of Son Trach, but note that many caves are closed during the wet season from mid-September to late November or early December.

3. Hang Son Doong

Best for journeys to another world

Hidden away in the jungles of Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park, Hang Son Doong (Mountain River Cave) is believed to be the world’s largest cave, and it’s one of the most spectacular – and exclusive – sights in Southeast Asia. Public access was only approved by the government in 2013, and entry is only permitted to controlled numbers of people on organized tours.

This monster cavern was discovered surprisingly recently, by Ho Khanh, a hunter from a jungle settlement close to the Vietnam–Laos border. He stumbled across the gargantuan Hang Son Doong cavern in the early 1990s while seeking shelter in his mountain homeland, but the sheer scale of the cavern was only confirmed when British explorers returned with him in 2009.

Visiting Hang Son Doong is expensive but truly spectacular. The majestic principal cavern is more than 5km (3.1 miles) long, and the roof is 200m (656ft) high in places, reaching a maximum width of 150m (492ft). Expeditions involve days of trekking and overnight stops at campsites inside the caverns.

Planning Tip: All trips to Hang Son Doong must be organized through the tour agency Oxalis, with bookings opening up two years in advance, and spaces selling out quickly.

4. The Tonkinese Alps

Best for mountain views and tumbling rice terraces

The spectacular Tonkinese Alps (Hoang Lien Mountains) soar skywards along the rugged, uncompromising northwest fringes of Vietnam, taking their name from the old French term for this corner of Southeast Asia. The dramatic range includes 3147m (10,325ft) Fansipan, Vietnam’s highest peak, which can be climbed on a challenging day hike from the gateway town of Sapa.

There’s more to see here than glorious mountains. From sinuous and spidery ridges, spectacular rice terraces cascade down into river valleys that provide a home for Vietnamese ethnic minority groups such as the Hmong, Red Dzao and Giay peoples.

5. Phu Quoc

Best for beach lovers

Lapped by azure waters and hemmed by the kind of white-sand beaches that make sunseekers sink to their knees in praise, Phu Quoc is Vietnam’s most beautiful island escape. This paradisiacal getaway is way down in the south of Vietnam, but you can fly here directly from cities across Southeast Asia, and visitors are free to stay visa-free for up to 30 days. 

The island is perfect for a hassle-free beach break – imagine days on the sand, then reaching for a seaside cocktail as a blood-orange sun dips into a vivid blue sea. In addition to beautiful beaches, more than 70% of the island is preserved as a leafy national park, full of wildlife such as macaque and langur monkeys and slow lorises, and dotted with quiet coves where you can kayak or scuba dive.

With picture-perfect white sand, the delightful curve of beautiful Sao
Beach follows a blue bay of mineral-water clarity just a few
miles from An Thoi,
the main shipping port at the southern tip of Phu Quoc. There are a
couple of beachfront restaurants where you can settle into a deckchair,
change into bathers or try some of the water sports on offer.

Planning Tip: If you want to get away from the crowds, rent a bike, motorcycle or scooter and hit the red-dirt roads. The island is relatively compact, around the size of Singapore, but you’ll need an international driving permit to rent a motorcycle or scooter.

6. Ban Gioc Waterfall

Best for observing the power of nature

Tucked against the Chinese border in the far north of the country, churning Ban Gioc is one of Vietnam’s best-known waterfalls, and in photo form, it adorns the lobby of many a budget Vietnamese guesthouse. Fed by the Quay Son River, which marks the border with China, the falls reach their full force during the wet season, but the best time to visit is during the rice harvest season in September and October, when the surrounding rice fields turn a warm gold color.

Aim to visit around lunchtime when the dam upstream is opened, allowing the cascade to run at full flow. Boat owners can punt you to the cascades on bamboo rafts for a small fee, bringing you close enough to the waterfall to feel the spray on your face.

Planning Tip: The falls span two countries, and each side has its own boat operators – those on the Vietnamese side have blue canopies; on the Chinese side, canopies are green.

7. Thuy Son

Best for combining nature and culture

Thuy Son is the largest and most famous of the five Marble Mountains, topped by scenic pagodas and pockmarked by natural caves that were converted into Hindu and Buddhist sanctuaries from the 17th century onwards. Sitting outside Danang, these mountains have been a hub for marble carvers for centuries, and carving workshops ring their bases (today, masons use marble imported from China).

Of the two paths heading up Thuy Son mountain, the one closer to the beach (at the end of the village) makes for a better circuit. At the top of the staircase is a gate, Ong Chon, which is pockmarked with bullet holes from the American War, leading to Linh Ong Pagoda – a delightful jumble of religious architecture, statues and greenery.

8. Ba Be National Park

Best for escaping the crowds

Detour off the regular Vietnam tourist trail in Ba Be National Park, an essential stop for adventurous travelers, with towering limestone mountains, plunging valleys, silent waterways and evergreen forests. Waterfalls, cave systems and lakes combine in a landscape that sustains more than 550 different plant species and hundreds of different species of birds and animals. 

Arriving at Ba Be from Hanoi on an organized tour by chartered car – or independently using a series of connecting buses – you can explore Ba Be’s spectacular natural landscapes by boat or on trekking and mountain-biking excursions, before relaxing and recharging in rustic homestays and village guesthouses run by people from the local Tay ethnic minority.

9. Mui Ne Sand Dunes

Best for shifting sands

Accessible by open-tour bus from Ho Chi Minh City, Mui Ne is famous for its enormous red and white sand dunes, created by the action of wind over thousands of years. It’s a remarkable landscape to discover amid the lush greenery of southern Vietnam. The smaller red dunes, or doi hong, are conveniently located north of the main village strip, but the more impressive white dunes, or doi cat trang, are 24km (15 miles) northeast. 

Near-constant oceanic winds have sculpted the pale-yellow sands into wonderful Saharaesque formations, but as this is Vietnam not deepest Mali, don’t expect to enjoy the scenery in silence. While the landscapes are dramatic, tours are big business and the dunes see plenty of quad bikes and dune buggies, and youngsters enthusiastically encourage visitors to hire plastic sleds to ride down the dunes.

Planning Tip: To get the best from this surprising landscape, consider taking a hot air balloon ride, which will lift you up above the dunes at sunrise.