Archives October 2023

North Africa calls – but to which of its legendary destinations’ siren songs should you answer?

We asked a pair of experienced correspondents to each sing in praise of two of the region’s most beguiling countries to visit: Morocco and Egypt. Whichever place you pick for your next journey, you’re sure to strike the right note.

Mesmerizing Morocco

Travel journalist and UK native Sally Kirby moved to Morocco in 2018, realizing she would always have places (and waves) to feed her curious, surf-loving soul there.

Did you know that Morocco has nine UNESCO World Heritage sites? Egypt? Just seven. Sure, one of them is the Great Pyramid of Giza – but archaeology enthusiasts are spoiled for choice with the ancient sights (empty of crowds and mostly free of charge) all over Morocco. You’ll be able to see the exquisite Roman ruins at Volubilis, the ancient casbah Ait Ben Haddou, and the medinas of Marrakesh, Fez and Essaouira, plus Igiliz, a long-forgotten acropolis now being excavated and opened to tourists in Morocco.

Alongside these ancient sites are Morocco’s trendsetting cities such as Rabat, Marrakech and Casablanca. They cater to a growing number of discerning residents and visitors, with lively art scenes, contemporary museums, shopping malls, luxury hotels, buzzing nightlife and globe-topping music festivals – all linked by modern tramways and high-speed trains.

Morocco’s Sahara offers a glimpse into a nomadic way of life. The giant dunes of Erg Chigaga and Erg Chebbi feature an ocean of red sand that rises up to 500ft (150m) over the surrounding terrain. This is the real Sahara, and very easy to access. But don’t just take my word for it, you can read up on the differences between the Moroccan and Egyptian desert experiences from other reliable sources.

Now let’s talk about Morocco’s 1250 miles (2000km) of Atlantic coastline, home to some of the best surfing waves in the world. (Sorry, Egypt.) The country’s surf capital, Taghazout Bay has a 3 mile (5km) sandy beach that blends luxury beach resorts with a surf-and-yoga, go-with-the-flow vibe that’s inspiring reels all over Instagram. Anchor Point, the local showstopper wave, now hosts a leg of the WSL (World Surf League) international surfing championship. Oh, and in a counterpart to Egypt’s Med and Red Sea beaches, I should mention Morocco’s Mediterranean coast, home to striking emerald coves and stunning beaches for the 310-mile (500km) stretch between Tangier and Oujda.

All that coastline makes Morocco well positioned to haul in plentiful fresh fish: the country is the world’s largest exporter of canned sardines. Moroccans traditionally serve their fish straight off the boat onto a grill, with seasoning, olive oil and a squeeze of lemon – as fresh as it comes, and utterly delicious. Food is a massive part of Moroccan culture – usually home-cooked using seasonal recipes handed down over generations. Tasty tagines, couscous, soups and salads are guaranteed.

Perhaps Morocco’s biggest asset is its year-round sunshine, making it an excellent beach or pool vacation choice, especially in the south, around Agadir. With such abundant sun, Morocco is home to the world’s largest concentrated solar farm and on track to become a leader in renewable energy. The heat is less intense than on Egypt’s Red Sea beaches, primarily due to the cool breeze that blows off the Atlantic Ocean even in the summer months.

Hiking enthusiasts flock to the Atlas Mountains, with its easily accessible day and longer treks. At 13,670ft (4167m), Mt Toubkal is the highest peak in North Africa, providing an interesting hiking challenge for wannabe mountaineers. Nature and wildlife lovers can also enjoy safari adventures in the national park near Ifrane, home to Barbary apes, or Souss Massa National Park, with its oryx and other endemic species.

If you’re still undecided, one final point: the spirit of Morocco will speak to you. This is a peaceful country with community at its heart, where people have time for each other and the things that matter. To be part of that, even for a holiday, can be a life-changing travel experience. One I wholeheartedly recommend.

Enchanting Egypt

Dr Jenny Walker has spent 25 years working in the Middle East and has covered Egypt among other regional destinations in multiple Lonely Planet guidebooks. She recently drove 8500km (5300 miles) from Oman to her home in northern Spain.

“It’s sublime,” a friend newly returned from Morocco said. “It has mountains as high as the Alps, souks more labyrinthine than the Hampton Court Palace Maze and old castles that put the pyramids in the shade.” Pausing to take a breath between superlatives, she added, “And there’s a garden in Marrakesh that’s quite simply a world wonder.”

Well…I grant you the Atlas Mountains are a wow, particularly when dusted with winter snows. And yes, you’re bound to get lost in the souqs of Fez and Marrakesh (and I get that Yves Saint Laurent’s garden is exotically blue), but can the desert fortifications, which only hint at the mighty Sahara beyond, really overshadow the great works of the ancients?

Let’s face it: if it’s world wonders we’re talking about, there’s simply no contest. No other country but Egypt offers the chance of visiting one of the original seven. Looming over the desert on the edge of Cairo and built to house the remains of Khufu – a powerful Old Kingdom pharaoh from the 26th-century BC – the Great Pyramid is the only wonder from the ancient world that survives.

You can read about it, imagine its size and conceptualize its age, yet only sitting on a camel pacing across the arid Giza Plateau can you really appreciate its extraordinary scale and beauty. The pyramids have inspired creation myths (think “alien conspiracy theories”), been the subject of a dedicated branch of archaeology and have been immortalized in film to such an extent that “Indiana Jones” has become an adjective in Egyptian culture. They continue to feature on the top 10 must-dos of most travelers’ bucket lists. Nothing can put these giants in the shade.

And if we’re talking “bests” – let’s throw in some other world wonders. Take Luxor’s Valley of the Kings, where just over 100 years ago the tomb of Tutankhamun was uncovered with all the young pharaoh’s funereal possessions intact. Nested in an elaborate three-part sarcophagus, Tutankhamun’s mummy was surrounded by magnificent artifacts comprising over 2600lbs (1200kg) of gold – more dazzle than all the polished brass of a Meknes market combined.

Shall we take it as a given then, that when it comes to the ancients Egypt is unparalleled. But what about adventure? Sure, Morocco boasts high mountains, but Egypt has its own share of natural bounty. There’s a river for a start, and not just any old river – at 4130 miles (6650km) the Nile vies with the Amazon as the world’s longest. Supporting life along its shores for thousands of years, it offers today’s visitors a green way of traveling between top sites.

Then there’s the desert: its western area is a geography lesson in geological formations and remote oasis towns, the eastern part is home to hermits. In the tradition of monastic isolation inspired by their mountain strongholds, the brethren of the monasteries of St Anthony’s and St Paul’s, together with St Catherine’s in the Sinai, have inherited not just a legacy of Coptic treasures but also the art of living simply.

And the garden? I’ll concede that Jardin Marjorelle is a modern Marrakesh classic, but a world wonder? For now, my money’s on the gardens of the deep, which lie off shore in the crystal clear waters of Egypt’s Red Sea. Home to dugong, whale sharks and 1000 species of fish, these superb waters are decorated with 150 types of corals, every bit as exotic as a garden in blue.

The mere mention of the Philippines evokes images of palm-fringed beaches and clear tropical lagoons.

For anyone eager to escape a gloomy climate, this sun-soaked archipelago in Southeast Asia promises a lush, tropical getaway. And in addition to the dreamy weather, the country offers a wealth of cultural experiences, vibrant local traditions and unmatched warm hospitality, too. 

The Philippines has two major seasons: the dry season from December to May, and the rainy season from June to November. While you can enjoy the country’s many beaches year-round, the loads of sunshine and minimal rainfall of the drier months undoubtedly make for optimal for beach days. Yet traveling during the off-peak season means lower prices and the chance to enjoy beaches and islands – if you manage to time your trip between typhoons, that is. 

Whatever you’re in the mood for, these are the best times to visit the Philippines.

November to May is the best time for beaches and island-hopping

Generally, the ideal months to hit the beach are from December to May, when the weather is dry, sunny and perfect for outdoor activities like beach-bopping and island-hopping. November typically marks the arrival of good, dry weather in most of the country, including Manila, El Nido, Coron and Boracay.

Early November or mid-January to February are your best bets to avoid the busy year-end holidays. Expect to shell out more and rub elbows during Holy Week (usually in March or April), local summer breaks and long weekends, when tourists descend to the most popular beaches en masse. 

But don’t worry: with more than 7000 islands in the country, there’s plenty of space for everyone. It’s still possible to stumble upon secluded beaches even during the busiest time of the year, especially if you head to offbeat islands like Romblon, Masbate or the Eastern Visayas.

Lather on the sunscreen if you visit from March to May, when the rays get dialed up a notch. These warmest months of the year bring loads of sunshine, with occasional showers in May.

January to May is the best time to witness vibrant festivals

Festivals take place throughout the year in the Philippines – with the most frenzied (and photogenic) happening in the first quarter of the year. These include Ati-Atihan in Kalibo (the grandaddy of all Philippine fiestas), Sinulog Festival in Cebu and Dinagyang in Iloilo, which all take place on the third and fourth Sundays of January. Held in honor of the Santo Niño, or Infant Jesus, these festivals feature parades, dancing, and raucous, weeklong street parties that draw crowds in the thousands.

During the popular Panagbenga Flower Festival in February, the northern mountain town of Baguio becomes a blooming spectacle with grand floral parades and spectacular floats adorned with roses, chrysanthemums, sunflowers and everlasting buds. 

Lucban turns into a cornucopia of countryside charm come mid-May, when houses are adorned with fresh fruits, vegetables and kiping (colorful rice-paper wafers) during the Pahiyas Festival, a harvest event that honors the patron saint of farmers. 

December to February is peak hiking season

December, January and February are the coolest, most pleasant months of the year to go hiking in the country’s gorgeous mountains. Most trails will be dry and safe to access, and the heat and humidity won’t be as high as in the summer months.

Beginner-level mountains are accessible on day trips from Manila – such as Mt Daraitan in Tanay in Rizal, which features spectacular summit views with caves and rivers nearby to explore. Mt Makiling in Los Baños, Laguna, is beautiful, with dense forests and mossy, dew-kissed trails. While Mt Pinatubo Crater Lake can be visited year-round, December to February is the ideal window, before the trail gets steamy enough to cook eggs on its volcanic terrain.

There’s a higher chance of witnessing the breathtaking sea of clouds in Mt Pulag (the “Playground of the Gods”) during these drier months. Hikers recommend February to March for clear skies and dreamy sunrise views (if you don’t mind single-digit temperatures at night). The summer months of March to May offer phenomenal views of the Milky Way, if you’re lucky enough to get a clear night.

December to April is the best time to explore underwater wonders

Months with milder weather also signal the best scuba diving and snorkeling season in the country. Calm seas and clear skies make visibility excellent, while the warmer water makes it easier to encounter marine life. December to March is the best time to go wreck-diving in Coron, Palawan. Even if you don’t dive, you can spot shipwrecks from above while snorkeling. 

While it’s possible to dive year-round in some places like Mindoro (since the island that is sheltered from typhoons by its neighboring islands), the rainy season can bring tropical showers, rough seas and cloudy skies. Even if the weather is perfect in Puerto Galera, ferries and boat trips to and from Batangas may be affected by the weather.

Some top diving spots like Tubbataha Reefs Natural Park are only accessible from mid-March to mid-June, with liveaboards typically lasting from six nights and seven days to 11 nights and 12 days. Plan accordingly.

February to May is the best time to spot whale sharks

If a swim with whale sharks, the world’s largest fish, is on your bucket list, the first few months of the year are the best time to go for it. These gentle giants roam around the waters of Donsol, Sorsogon, from November to June, with February to May offering the highest chance for divers and snorkelers to spot them in the wild. Operators in Donsol don’t engage in shark feeding, which unfortunately remains a common practice in other parts of the country.

June to October is best for budget travelers and chasing waterfalls

If you’re looking to save on costs and avoid the crowds, the off-peak months from June to October might appeal to you. The wetter months of the year typically bring rain and typhoons, which can make travel unpredictable. Yet budget travelers can take advantage of low-season rates to enjoy beaches and tourist spots without feeling rushed. 

Accommodations, tours and flight prices drop during the low season, since the weather can still be unpredictable. For minimal disruptions, it’s best to stay in areas less prone to storms (such as Palawan, Boracay, Cebu and Mindoro) and avoid regions facing the Pacific Ocean.

The wet season is also a good time to chase waterfalls and enjoy adventures beyond the beach like canyoneering and cliff jumping in Cebu’s Kawasan Falls. The cascades of Kaparkan Falls, a stunning waterfall in Abra whose terraces create natural spring-water pools, are at their fullest and most beautiful during the rainy months from July to October.

White-water rafting in Cagayan de Oro is amazing in the rainy months, when the river is higher and rapids more exciting. Take a detour to the island of Camiguin, which has its share of waterfalls and lovely hot springs, cold springs and soda springs to soak in.

July to November is a swell time for advanced surfers

There are two distinct surfing seasons based on the Philippines’ monsoon seasons. Known as amihan (or northeast monsoon season), December to March typically sees smaller waves on the west coast and is better for beginner surfers in areas like San Juan in La Union.

Intermediate and pro surfers who want to catch epic waves on the eastern seaboard will want to time their trips from July to November. The habagat (southwest monsoon season – which also marks typhoon season) often brings bigger waves to top surfing spots like the Majestics in Catanduanes, Baler’s Point break, Siargao’s legendary Cloud Nine or far-flung Calicoan Island’s ABDC reef breaks. 

September marks the start of the festive Christmas season 

Christmas carols start playing in malls as early as September, as the country revs up the world’s longest Christmas season. The “-ber months” — September through December — bring a seemingly nonstop procession of events, year-end fairs, light displays and all-out celebrations across the country.

September and October are great months to visit mountain towns like Baguio and Sagada. Holiday decorations turn the towns into Christmas villages, and you can enjoy the crisp and cool weather amid the pine-tree forests – without the full force of the tourist crowds just yet. 

Come December, the high season ramps up and takes off at full speed. The last few days of the year, from Christmas to New Year, are a frenetic peak period that requires careful planning. You’ll need to summon plenty of patience when dealing with city traffic, airport lines and sourcing a cab. Expect to be elbow-to-elbow with other customers when you dine out: it’s a lot…but you’ll be in the thick of all the action. If you prefer solitary getaways to socializing, consider escaping to offbeat islands or lesser-visited countryside retreats.

Wyoming conjures up images of snowy mountain peaks, one-stop cowboy towns and roaming bison, but this landlocked state also has its fair share of lakes, rivers and beaches for you to swim, soak and even surf in.

Summer is short and sweet here, so locals embrace the warmer weather wholeheartedly by taking advantage of every opportunity to get out on the water. There are a few rules to keep in mind when swimming in Wyoming: respect the wildlife, pack your sense of adventure, and remember that even when the water is chilly, the views are beyond rewarding. Here are the best places to swim in Wyoming.

String Lake is calm, clear and has excellent views of the snowcapped Tetons

Grand Teton National Park is better known for wildlife viewing and stunning hikes than warm water (rivers and lakes are fed by snowmelt and glacial runoff), but the crystal-clear ribbon of String Lake is an exception to the rule. The water here is shallow, making it easy for the whole family to enjoy, and it gets way warmer than the surrounding Jackson or Jenny Lakes. You’ll see plenty of canoes, kayaks and paddleboards out on the water – rent one nearby at Dornan’s – because the lake stays relatively calm on windy days and there are no motorboats allowed. Postcard views of the Teton range make this lake’s small beaches and picnic tables an ideal spot to spend the entire day. Just remember to follow the park’s food storage guidelines – this is definitely bear country.

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Alcova Reservoir has a dedicated kids’ swimming beach

There are four beaches to choose from at the popular summer destination of Alcova Reservoir – all with excellent access for swimming­ – but the Children’s Swim Beach is a favorite for young kids due to its sandy bottom and calm water. Beach volleyball nets and a playground together with camping, picnic and RV sites add to the reservoir’s appeal as a family destination. While the swimming beaches are located in protected coves, the lake is also great for boating and offers easy access with eight boat ramps. The best way to enjoy Alcova is to stay for a night or two, rent a boat, bike, paddleboard or kayak from the marina, and stop at the ice-cream shop at the end of the day for a sweet summer treat.

Firehole River Canyon is Yellowstone’s best swimming hole

The Firehole River is not as hot as the name would lead you to believe, making it a great option for cooling off after a long day of driving and sightseeing in Yellowstone National Park. Here you’ll find an easy-to-locate swimming hole out of the river’s main current – lifejackets are recommended for kids, and water shoes might be helpful for navigating the river’s rocky bottom. There are also bathrooms across the street that make changing a breeze. If you’re not quite up for swimming, there is a good beach where you can just relax and watch the action.

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Explore local history at dog-friendly Lower Slide Lake

If you are visiting the Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Park areas, you know that park rules limit where dogs can go. The Bridger-Teton National Forest’s Lower Slide Lake is worth a visit if you want to let your pets cool off, too. The reddish shoal that dots the hills here creates unique scenery quite unlike anything you’ll see in the more famous parks. The lake is relatively calm and protected, making it an ideal place for small watercraft like kayaks and paddleboards. On your way out, stop at the Kelly Deli for giant sandwiches and boozy seltzers on tap. Interesting fact: this lake was created by an infamous rockslide that dammed the river and took out the entire town of Kelly, resulting in the Upper and Lower Slide Lakes. On the far end of the lake, you can see the tops of trees still poking out from the depths!

Granite Hot Springs is your best bet when the weather turns chilly

In the northwest corner of Wyoming, snow can fall every month of the year! Even in the hottest months of July and August, the temperature can plummet in the evenings, so Granite Hot Springs is a great option for swimming when the weather report is less than ideal. Natural hot springs feed into a man-made pool that costs $12 for adults and $7 for kids to enter. In the summer, you’ll take a windy, scenic drive to the springs, and in the winter the area is only accessible via snowmobile, snow bike or snowshoe (check for closures during the spring and fall months). Entry includes access to bathrooms and changing rooms, but there are few other amenities, so bring your own snacks.

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Palisades Reservoir is a boater’s and surfer’s paradise

No ocean, no problem! The small town of Alpine, Wyoming, has fully embraced the summer surf culture, and its laid-back vibe is a welcome respite from the crowds in nearby Jackson Hole. The lake is plenty large enough to sustain the many local boaters who enjoy it, and vibes are always good when the wake surf and water ski boats are out and music is playing. Boat rentals and surf lessons are available with Teton Surf Co, and Melvin Brewing is the perfect place to enjoy a locally brewed beer as the sun sets over the Snake River Mountains. In the evenings you’ll mingle with plenty of other boaters and surf enthusiasts docking up, grilling hot dogs, and just enjoying the lake life.

With its tumbling emerald landscapes, history-steeped ancient sites, idyllic beaches and energetic cities, Vietnam is a magnet for visitors in search of an incredible travel experience. Indeed, visitor numbers are growing every year, in line with Vietnam’s reputation as a great first stop in Southeast Asia.

This country is packed with attractions, from blissful sands to Cham-era ruins and two of Asia’s liveliest megacities, so it pays to plan your trip around the places you absolutely can’t miss. Where you want to go will influence whether you fly into cultured Hanoi in the north or busy Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC) in the south, or whether you bypass these two mighty metropolises for the laid-back beaches of tropical Phu Quoc.

Start your travel planning now with our list of the top ten places to visit in Vietnam.

1. Phu Quoc

Best for beach lovers

About as far south as you can get from Hanoi without splashing into the Gulf of Thailand, the island of Phu Quoc is where beach worshippers come to pray. Lapped by jewel-blue waters and edged by fine sandy beaches, this is a place to slip into low gear, reaching for a cocktail as the ember-colored sun dips into the bay.

But it’s far from undiscovered – local tourists come in droves for theme park thrills at VinWonders and giddying views over the sea from the world’s longest over-sea cable car at the Sun World Hon Thom nature park. Phu Quoc is a popular stop for families, and if you fancy a change from the tourist scene, there are dense jungles to explore inland from the sand.

Planning Tip: If you’re bound for Phu Quoc, there’s no need to go via Hanoi and HCMC. Numerous Asian airlines offer flights directly to Phu Quoc from hubs such as Bangkok, Kuala Lumpur and Seoul, connecting with long-haul flights further afield. Also note that normal visa requirements are suspended for Phu Quoc – visitors can stay visa-free for up to 30 days.

2. Hanoi

Best for city slickers

Every trip has to start somewhere, and the ideal point of arrival for first-timers is Vietnam’s historic capital. As well as easy infrastructure, inexpensive accommodation, world-class dining and more history than you’ll ever have time to take in, Hanoi is the leaping-off point for the islands and outcrops around Halong Bay and the forest-draped trails of the mountainous northwest.

Give yourself time to graze through Vietnam’s catalog of street food treats and pause to soak up the atmosphere in cozy cafes in the Old Quarter as well as rush around the sights.

Planning Tip: To enjoy Hanoi nightlife on a budget, swing by the streetside bia hoi (draft beer) stalls at busy Bia Hoi Junction on the drinking strip of P Ta Hein.

3. Lan Ha Bay and Bai Tu Long Bay

Best for iconic photos

Things can get pretty cramped in crowded Halong Bay, but the shimmering bays to the north and south have a more peaceful air and a similarly spectacular collection of karst outcrops and islands. While trips to Halong Bay are highly commercialized, with motorized luxury junks blowing diesel fumes around the eroded karst formations, in Lan Ha Bay and Bai Tu Long Bay you won’t have quite so many cruise ships in your photos.

Try kayaking between the outcrops, explore the tropical trails on Cat Ba Island – gateway to Lan Ha Bay – or kick back on the sand on Bai Tu Long’s idyllic Co To Island, with its collection of pretty beaches and seafood restaurants.

Planning Tip: If you visit Cat Ba Island, take time to explore the trails around Cat Ba National Park – if you trek with your own guide, it’s easy to leave the crowds behind.

4. Ho Chi Minh City

Best for a sense of the past

Cosmopolitan, French-flavored Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC) is the southern counterweight to Hanoi in the north, taking its cultural cues from the Mekong Delta and neighboring Cambodia. It’s fast-paced, frenetic and fun, particularly after dark, when the pavements transform into a mobile buffet of street food stalls and roadside bars.

A little of the frontier feel of the war years lives on in HCMC, and you can learn more about this troubled period in Vietnamese history at sites such as the War Remnants Museum. The ghosts of French Indochina linger too – set aside some time to wander past the city’s colonial-era landmarks, then settle into a coffee shop with a cup of drip-brewed Vietnamese-style ca phe.

Planning Tip: For a break from the city crush, swing out to nearby Tay Ninh, where the Cao Dai Holy See offers a fascinating introduction to the all-embracing Cao Dai religion.

5. Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park

Best for unique experiences

Vietnam’s biggest natural attraction – literally – is Hang Son Doong Cave, the largest cavern in the world by volume and a true natural wonder. An entire New York City block could fit inside its vast main passage, but visitor numbers are strictly controlled and this monster cavern is only accessible on costly guided treks.

The good news is that Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park is pockmarked with numerous other caverns that you can clamber, crawl, boat or zipline through for a fraction of the cost. Trips to the Tu Lan, Phong Nha and Paradise caves are possible on a shoestring budget; more cash will buy access to Hang En, where trekkers set up tents on an underground beach, illuminated by shafts of natural light.

6. Hoi An

Best for history

A stay in harmonious Hoi An is a journey into Vietnam’s lavish, layered past. This was once one of the most important ports in Asia, and traders from as far afield as Japan, Spain and North America filled the pockets of its merchants with gold. Locals used their money wisely, packing the Old Town with tidy shophouses, tea warehouses, fanciful covered bridges, elaborate Chinese-style guildhalls, and colorful Confucian and Buddhist pagodas.

History is only the beginning in Hoi An. Many travelers stay for days, learning to make white rose dumplings and summer rolls on chef-led cooking courses, and ordering made-to-measure suits and gowns from the city’s modestly priced tailors’ shops.

Planning Tip: For a change of pace, head inland from Hoi An and spend a night in a friendly community homestay in the Co Tu minority village of Bho Hoong.

7. The Central Beaches

Best for sun-seekers

Sandy bays stud Vietnam’s central coastline, but the mood varies widely from beach to beach. Package tourists flock to high-rise Danang and Nha Trang – famed as a military R&R stop during the American War, but more interesting for its buzzing beach scene, Cham-era ruins, Buddhist shrines and delectable seafood.

We rate the calmer beaches along the coast, where Vietnam’s old seaside charm endures. To the south of Nha Trang, Mui Ne is a lively kitesurfing hub spanning a string of sandy coves, while Doc Let Beach to the north serves up 18km (11 miles) of sand, surf and seafood.

Detour: For a quieter beach experience, hit the coast between Hue and Danang – Thuan An is the gateway to a string of serene and sandy beaches flanking a lagoon-backed barrier island.

8. Hue

Best for imperial history

The former capital of the Nguyen dynasty – which ruled over large parts of Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia in the 19th and 20th centuries – drips with imperial history, despite the ravages of US bombers during the American War.

Much was lost in Hue, but the grandeur of dynastic Vietnam lives on in the Citadel and Imperial Enclosure, housing the emperor’s residence, temples, palaces and court. At one time, entering without imperial compound permission would bring instant death.

Just outside town are the tombs of Vietnam’s greatest emperors, resting serenely in green compounds beside the Perfume River. Another relic of royal rule is Hue’s imperial cuisine – arguably the finest in the country. Try a spicy bowl of bun bo Hue (vermicelli noodle soup) or a crispy banh khoai pancake, and you’ll see what we mean!

Planning Tip: To stay one step ahead of the crowds at Hue’s imperial tombs, rent a motorcycle or scooter to explore; don’t miss the Thien Mu Pagoda on your way out of the city.

9. Ba Be National Park

Best for lake and forest scenery

Vietnam has more than 30 national parks, taking in everything from coastal swamps to mountain jungles, but some are firmly on the tourist trail, and the crowds can be an impediment to spotting wildlife. That’s less of a problem in lovely Ba Be National Park, where trails weave between the limestone peaks to Hmong, Tay and Dzao villages, and boat and kayak trips cross serene lakes hemmed in by forested ridges, creating scenes worthy of a medieval woodcut.

Keep an eye out for wildlife while you explore. The park is a haven for everything from macaques and langur monkeys to rare black bears, scaly pangolins and the spectacular crested serpent eagle.

Planning Tip: Comfy accommodation in village homes completes the sense of stepping off the mainstream tourist circuit. For an intimate homestay experience, check out the family-run guesthouses in Pac Ngoi village, accessible by bus from Hanoi, via the village of Cho Don.

10. Ha Giang

Best for mountain views

Trekking to minority villages in the hills around Sapa is one of Vietnam’s top draws, but the country’s trekking capital feels rather commercialized these days. Hikers have to walk further every year to find the rural idyll that first drew people to the country’s mountainous northwest.

For scenic countryside without the company, remote Ha Giang province is Vietnam’s new frontier. Staying in simple village homestays, you can hike out to minority villages and rice terraces tucked between the soaring limestone peaks, and motor (or pedal) over some of Vietnam’s most spectacular passes. You’ll want to take plenty of photos on the winding mountain road between Ha Giang town, Dong Van and Meo Vac.

Planning Tip: If you’re confident in the saddle, motorcycles and scooters can easily be rented in Ha Giang town for exploring the hills – just ride slowly and be ready for rainy conditions! Be aware that you’ll need an international driving license (and a home license covering motorcycles if you plan to rent a motorcycle rather than a scooter).