July 2023 – healthyng

Beaches

The 13 best places to visit in Tanzania

From watching wildebeest and zebras gallop across Serengeti National Park to basking on Zanzibar’s beaches and climbing Mount Kilimanjaro, Tanzania is famous for big, bold and beautiful experiences. But with so much to see and do, it can take some planning to tick off all the items on your bucket list.

Some experiences are so memorable as to be almost obligatory. Seeing the Big Five – lions, leopards, elephants, rhinos and Cape buffaloes – on a safari through one of Tanzania’s national parks will stay with you for a lifetime. The five to nine-day climb to the summit of Kilimanjaro is another once-in-a-lifetime experience.

Then there are the beaches of Zanzibar and other Indian Ocean islands, and the rich history, striking architecture and superb cuisine on offer in cities such as Dar es Salaam. Meeting the people of this diverse nation is another highlight – Tanzania is home to some 120 ethnic groups, from the northern Hadza people, the Iraqw of the Great Rift Valley and the Pimbwe of western Tanzania to the Maasai of the Serengeti.

While you practice your greetings in Kiswahili – the language that unifies Tanzania’s varied peoples – here are our picks for the best places to visit in Tanzania.

A group of zebra crossing the River Mara between Tanzania and Kenya. — The Serengeti is alive with wildlife, including Africa’s famous Big Five. Gudkov Andrey/Shutterstock

1. Serengeti National Park

The Maasai people who have lived in northern Tanzania for thousands of years call the nation’s most famous national park Siringet, meaning “endless plains.” Indeed, anyone who visits the Serengeti will be struck by the flat terrain – stretching endlessly into the distance, punctuated occasionally by scattered hills, acacia trees and the silhouettes of wandering wildlife.

The plains host an intricate ecosystem that nurtures an astonishing variety of fauna and flora, including some 500 bird species and dozens of large mammal species. And yes, all of the Big Five can be spotted here. If you’re hoping for sightings of zebras, elephants, giraffes, black rhinos, wildebeest and apex predators, you’ve come to the right reserve.

Planning Tip: Each year, between May and September, over two million wildebeest, antelope and zebra make their way from the Ndutu region in south of the reserve to the Maasai Mara, across the border in Kenya. This thrilling spectacle is the largest terrestrial wildlife migration on the planet and shouldn’t be missed if you can time your trip to coincide.

A view of the skyline of Dar es Salaam, Tanzania — Dar es Salaam is a fascinating melting pot of cultures, customs and architecture. Maria Swärd/Getty Images

2. Dar es Salaam

Dar – as it’s colloquially known – is Tanzania’s great economic hub. Everything begins here, which means you’ll probably pass through for at least a night on your visit to the country. Dar’s energy is fast-paced, and everyone is always on the move. Your first stop should be the colossal and bustling Kariakoo Market, where you can bargain for absolutely anything you might need, from crafts to household essentials.

Most visits to the capital involve plenty of walking, but stallholders sell sections of freshly cut sugarcane to help quench your thirst. At dawn, make your way to Kivukoni fish market to watch anglers hawking the day’s catch. As the heat builds in the afternoon, you can escape to a string of beaches just a short hop from the center.

The best sand is found on two uninhabited islands just off the coast, Mbudya and Bongoyo, both accessible by boat from Dar’s Kibo Beach. The islands are part of the Dar es Salaam Marine Reserve System, with a lively beach scene that attracts plenty of local residents.

Planning Tip: After dark, Dar comes alive with music, dancing and dining. Start a night out with a tasty supper at Samaki Samaki on Haile Selassie Rd or Karambezi Cafe on Toure Dr.

A group of Masai women in traditional costumes and jewellery, Tanzania — Beadwork has a long history in the Maasai people. Beads were once made using clay, shells, ivory, bone, wood and metal. Todorovic/Shutterstock

3. Arusha

While most visitors only spend a short time in Arusha before setting out on the northern safari circuit to Serengeti National Park and Ngorongoro, don’t be too quick to dismiss this scruffy but interesting town. Arusha has a pleasant climate and plenty of green spaces, and the Maasai Market is busy with tribal people. It’s a charming spot to while away a few hours and pick up some cool and original gifts to take home. To explore a little deeper, consider joining a coffee plantation tour, or take a hike to the Chemka Hot Springs, where you can bathe in warm waters in an emerald grove.

Planning Tip: A less crowded alternative to Kilimanjaro, often-overlooked Mt Meru towers over Arusha and it offers breathtaking vistas from the summit, with far fewer people along the trails. You’ll see plenty of wildlife on the 4-day hike, which passes through Arusha National Park.

4. Lushoto

Surrounded by the spectacular Usambara Mountains in the northeast of Tanzania, Lushoto is a small town with a regal history. This area was once the kingdom of King Mbegha, the “Lion King” of the Wasambaa people, whose successors ruled Tanzania until the arrival of German colonialists.

Wasambaa roots are still strong here, with descendants of the dynasty offering mountain hikes and visits to the plunging Kisasa waterfalls, plus community tours and stops in royal villages. A few hours from Lushoto, the rocky outcrop of Jiwe la Mungu (also known as God’s Stone) offers fabulous views of lush valleys that seem to fold into each other as if hiding lost secrets.

Planning Tip: There are no direct flights to Lushoto, but buses and flights run to Tanga, where you can arrange a taxi or private transfer to visit the town.

A wide shot of a family of elephants crossing a shallow river amid greenery in Tangarire National Park, Tanzania, East Africa — You won’t have trouble spotting elephants in Tangarire National Park. Martin Bolt/Shutterstock

5. Tarangire National Park

Three hours’ drive from Arusha, Tarangire National Park is one of the best spots in the country to spot wild elephants. The south of the conservation area is home to large herds of pachyderms, which make their way inland to Lake Manyara and Tarangire as other water sources dry up. This migration pattern reveals an interesting element of Tanzania’s conservation approach – land corridors allow elephants and other animals to move undisturbed from park to park.

Tarangire National Park is also notable for its massive baobab trees, which have stood here for hundreds if not thousands of years. Leopards, baboons and other mammals make great use of the branches of these iconic, majestic trees.

6. Nyerere National Park

Set out from Dar es Salaam for the 5-hour drive to Nyerere National Park (formerly Selous National Park), Africa’s largest national park. Within its almost 31,000 sq km (11,970 sq miles) roam huge herds of animals, including the Big Five, and antelope species you’ll rarely find in other parks on the continent. Look out for the roan antelope, brindled gnu, Lichtenstein’s hartebeest and sable while you explore on safari.

Nyerere also has the world’s largest concentration of endangered African wild dogs, which hunt their prey in packs – a thrilling thing to encounter on a game drive. The picturesque Rufiji River flows into a series of oxbow lakes, creating dreamy landscapes for photographers, and twitchers can spend hours spotting birds among the trees.

Planning Tip: The road from Dar es Salaam is mostly smooth but you’ll need a 4WD for the bumpy final stretch; many visitors choose to take a one-hour charter flight to one of the airstrips inside the park to save time – another opportunity to take some standout photographs.

A female lion on a branch in a tree in Manyara National Park, Tanzania, East Africa — For epic wildlife photos, look for the famous tree-climbing lions in Lake Manyara National Park. Costas Anton Dumitrescu/Shutterstock

7. Lake Manyara National Park

Covering just 325 sq km (125 sq miles), Lake Manyara National Park nonetheless makes a mark. Inside this park, alongside buffaloes, hippos, cheetahs and giraffes, you’ll come across an odd sight – tree-climbing lions. Bird watchers can spot some 400 species, including the forest hornbill and great white pelican. On highly alkaline Lake Natron, thousands of lesser flamingos sift through the pink waters for food.

Planning Tip: Flights run to Lake Manyara National Park from Arusha and Serengeti National Park, but you can get here by road in a few hours from Arusha, continuing overland to the Ngorongoro Crater.

A traditional boat on the beach in Zanzibar, Tanzania. — Zanzibar’s beaches are a unique shade of sparkling white. Dan Baciu/Shutterstock

8. Zanzibar

The numerous beaches that dust the shores of the islands in the Zanzibar Archipelago are simply some of the most gorgeous in the world. Most travelers pause to enjoy the stunning sands of Nungwi Beach in the north of Unguja island (also known as Zanzibar Island). If crowds are not your thing, try Muyuni for dolphin spotting, Jambiani for kite surfing and parasailing, Paje for swimming, or Matemwe for diving and snorkeling.

Detour: North of Unguja, Pemba Island is characterized by thick forests and crystal-clear waters. While the weather can be iffy, Misali and Vumawimbi Beaches offer unique diving and snorkeling opportunities, and there are some idyllic places to stay, including the spectacular Manta Resort.

9. Gombe Stream National Park

Just shy of the shores of Lake Tanganyika, Gombe Stream National Park was made famous by Jane Goodall’s behavioral research on chimpanzees. Conducted over four decades, her studies are one of the longest research projects ever carried out on a single wild animal population. Within this 35 sq km (14 sq mile area of grassland, woodland and thick rainforest, you can spot red colobus monkeys, blue monkeys, olive baboons and red-tailed monkeys, as well as Gombe’s celebrity chimps.

Vendors selling fresh fruits at Darajani Market, Stone Town, Zanzibar, Tanzania, Indian Ocean, East Africa — In the alleys and markets of historic Stone Town, you can get a sense of Zanzibar’s rich history. Africanway/Getty Images

10. Stone Town

For over a thousand years, Stone Town – the largest settlement in the Zanzibar archipelago – was a thriving entrepôt, drawing merchants from as far away as Persia, China and Europe, who came here to trade guns, textiles, minerals, spices and enslaved people. Today, this long history can be felt in Stone Town’s narrow cobbled streets, which are lined with Arab-style buildings and numerous mosques, testifying to the influence of Islam on the island.

Zanzibar’s slave history still casts a shadow. Before it was closed down in 1873, the brutal slave market in Stone Town (today marked by an Anglican Cathedral) was one of the largest centers in Africa for the trade in enslaved people, supplying forced labor for the Arabian peninsula and European-administered islands in the Indian Ocean.

Zanzibar’s intricate cuisine fuses elements from Africa, India, the Arabian Peninsula and France. Visiting the nightly market at Forodhani Gardens is one of the top things to do in Tanzania – it’s a great place to sample local foods flavored with the spices that are grown in the archipelago to this day.

Planning Tip: To get the best for your visit to Stone Town, hire a local guide to walk you through the town’s history, layer by layer.

African animals in the Ngorongoro Conservation Area, Tanzania. — The Ngorongoro Crater is a spectular haven for African wildlife. Jamie Friedland/Getty Images

11. Ngorongoro Conservation Area

Next door to Serengeti National Park, the UNESCO-designated Ngorongoro Conservation Area is a true natural treasure, of international importance to wildlife conservation. Millions of years ago, a series of volcanic eruptions created a mammoth crater that is now home to the largest concentration of large mammals in the world. During a single 4WD safari across the crater floor, it’s not uncommon to witness up to 30,000 animals, including lions, hyenas, zebras, wildebeest, Cape buffalo and big tuskers.

Planning Tip: The Tanzanian government, private hunting reserves and top-end safari companies have been accused of evicting tribal people from this region to facilitate tourism projects. Stick to ethically managed, locally owned operators when visiting Ngorongoro.

12. Mafia Island

Off the coast south of Dar es Salaam, and administered separately from the Zanzibar Archipelago, Mafia Island is easily overlooked – which may explain why so many people miss it. Visitors are few, but travelers who do visit describe the island as Tanzania’s best-kept secret.

This tropical island might even be more magical than Zanzibar – with even more powdery white sand and diamond-clear waters. It’s also home to the biggest fish in the world, the mighty whale shark. You might see these harmless giants lumbering through the waters off Utende, Juani, Kitoni or Bweni Beaches. At Ndagoni Beach, you can also spot hippos lazing about like they own the sand.

Women carrying laundry to wash in Lake Tanganyika, Tanzania. — Lake Tanganyika is so vast it feels like an inland sea. Yury Birukov/Shutterstock

13. Lake Tanganyika

On the country’s western frontier, Lake Tanganyika is the world’s second-largest freshwater lake, and the second-deepest lake on the planet, supporting a vast local fishing industry across Tanzania and into Zambia, Burundi and the Democratic Republic of Congo. Board a dhow for a memorable ride across its lilting waters, as the sun sets gently over the horizon and calm breezes whisper along the lakeshore.

In the lakeside town of Kigoma, you can visit the fish market or go scuba diving to see the lake’s thriving fish population up close. We recommend checking into Lake Tanganyika Hotel, right on the shore, or escaping to Lupita Island, where an all-inclusive lodge is a luxurious base for snorkeling, hiking, kayaking, swimming and fishing excursions.

Wildlife and Nature

First-timers guide to snorkeling and scuba diving on the Great Barrier Reef

A ribbon of color and life providing a habitat for more than 9000 marine species, the Great Barrier Reef is an Australian icon. Despite increasing threats to its survival, the world’s largest living organism – stretching along the Queensland coast for over 2300km (1429 miles) – continues to dazzle visitors with its surreal underwater scenery from tip to tail.

The sultry northern Queensland city of Cairns is the most famous gateway to the Great Barrier Reef, but there are plenty of other access points and an ever-increasing number of ways to experience this World Heritage-listed wonder and its 2900 individual reefs. Plan your first visit with Lonely Planet’s ultimate guide.

Snorkelers, Great Barrier Reef, Australia — The best time to visit varies across the 2300km-long Great Barrier Reef © artincamera / Shutterstock

When is the best time to visit the Great Barrier Reef?

The best time to visit the Great Barrier Reef is generally from June to November.

From December to March, northern Queensland (north of Townsville) has its wet season, bringing oppressive heat, abundant rainfall and the occasional cyclone – but you will find bargains on reef tours and accommodation. Stinger (jellyfish) season is between November and May, with Lycra stinger suits provided to snorkelers and divers for protection.

However, anytime is generally good to visit the Whitsundays (usually accessed from Airlie Beach) and the southern Great Barrier Reef (from Great Keppel Island near Yeppoon, south to Lady Elliot Island). Nature’s calendar is useful for timing your trip, with key events including the whale migration (during the winter months of June to October), turtle nesting and hatching (November to April, which is spring to autumn time in Australia) and coral spawning (a few days per year between November and December). Manta rays are particularly abundant around Lady Elliot Island in the Australian winter.

How much time do I need to see the Great Barrier Reef?

You can experience the Great Barrier Reef in as little as half a day from most land-based hubs along Queensland’s coast, but you’ll need a full day to experience the outer reef, home to more impressive diving and snorkeling spots.

Liveaboard dive boats visit the most spectacular reefs; most depart from Cairns and run for one to seven nights.

Further south, sailing trips in the Whitsundays are another popular way to experience the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park. Standard trips run for two nights/three days and include snorkeling stops and optional introductory dives.

Nudey beach on Fitzroy island near Cairns in Queensland, Australia — Base yourself on an island like Fitzroy Island near Cairns for a more secluded experience © John Crux Photography / Getty Images

Can I stay on the Great Barrier Reef?

It’s possible to stay on many of the reef’s 1050 islands and coral cays. Wake up with the reef on your doorstep at an island-resort base such as Lizard Island (accessed by plane from Cairns), Green or Fitzroy Island (accessed by boat or ferry from Cairns), the Whitsundays (fly to Hamilton Island or take a ferry from Airlie Beach), Heron or Wilson Island (accessed by barge from Gladstone) or Lady Elliot Island (accessed by plane from Bundaberg, Brisbane or the Gold Coast), to name a few.

You can also stay in pontoon-based accommodation managed by Cruise Whitsundays and Lady Musgrave Experience (operating from Bundaberg).

Is it easy to get to the Great Barrier Reef?

Cairns and the nearby resort town of Port Douglas are the main launching pads for reef tours, with myriad operators offering everything from half-day trips on large boats to intimate multi-day luxury charters. Cairns has an international airport, with transfers available to Port Douglas.

South of Cairns, reef tours also run from Mission Beach, Townsville, Airlie Beach and the Whitsundays, Bundaberg, Mackay, Yeppoon, Gladstone, Agnes Water and the town of 1770, and Bundaberg. Most of these hubs have domestic airports, and the Spirit of Queensland connects Brisbane to Cairns by rail. It typically takes between 90 and 120 minutes by boat to reach the outer reef. Tours on large catamarans (read: less likely to trigger seasickness) depart from Cairns, Port Douglas, the Whitsundays and Bundaberg.

Sugar Wharf in Port Douglas. Photo by Stoneography / Getty. — There is plenty to do on land as well as out on the reef: Port Douglas at sunset © Stoneography / Getty Images

Top things to do at the Great Barrier Reef

Diving and snorkeling is a highlight for most visitors to the Great Barrier Reef, but there is a range of other ways to experience this aquatic wilderness.

See the reef without getting wet on a scenic small-plane or helicopter flight from Cairns or the Whitsundays. Non-swimmers can also view the reef from glass-bottom boats, semi-submersibles and underwater observatories at pontoons visited on day trips from Cairns, Port Douglas, the Whitsundays and Bundaberg. Or simply enjoy the island scenery on a Whitsundays sailing tour.

On land, Indigenous-guided tours offer a memorable opportunity to learn how Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander peoples have lived in harmony with the reef for time immemorial, with a rich range of options in Cairns. You can also explore the reef with Indigenous guides on a day trip with Cairns-based Dreamtime Dive and Snorkel.

Cairns and Port Douglas are also great bases for visiting the lush Daintree Rainforest. At the southern end of the reef, learn about sea turtles at Bundaberg’s excellent Mon Repos Turtle Centre, then join a ranger-led tour (November to March) to see green and loggerhead turtles nest or hatch.

Where’s the most child-friendly place to stay at the Great Barrier Reef?

Many families gravitate to the abundance of family-friendly resorts and reef tour options in Cairns and Port Douglas. In the Whitsundays, Hamilton Island and Daydream Island Resort offer family-friendly island bases, and Airlie Beach has a wide range of caravan parks for road-tripping families.

Many boat trips to the outer reef visit family-friendly pontoons including Reef Magic opened near Cairns in 2022. Here nervous snorkelers can view fish without letting go of the platform, or stay dry and experience the reef via the semi-submarine, glass bottom boat, and underwater observatory.

How much money do I need to experience the Great Barrier Reef?

A standard day trip to the outer reef including snorkeling gear, lunch and glass bottom boat tours (if available) costs between AUD$200 to AU$350 per adult, with family rates usually available. Scuba dives can typically be added for an extra cost (budget from AUD$200 for two dives). The best deals are usually scored in Cairns, home to a wider choice of operators.

Half-day trips to the inner reef are a great way to save time and money. Some of the best snorkeling spots visited on half-day trips include Mackay Reef off Cape Tribulation (offered exclusively by Ocean Safari) and the Low Isles off Port Douglas (Reef Sprinter currently offers the cheapest tour).

One of the most affordable ways to stay on the reef is to camp on islands in Great Barrier Reef national parks including Capricornia Cayes National Park, Fitzroy Island National Park, and Whitsunday Islands National Park. The camping rate is just AUD$7.25 per night, but the cost of boat transfers can add up.

Where is the best diving and snorkeling on the reef?

There’s great diving and snorkeling along the reef’s entire length, with a rich diversity of corals, clams, tropical fish, turtles, rays, sharks and other critters commonly spotted from tip to tail. While the corals are more vibrant northward of Townsville, the slightly cooler southern Great Barrier Reef is generally less prone to coral bleaching. It’s also a particularly good place to see manta rays.

To access the most exquisite sections of the outer reef (including the Ribbon, Osprey, Milln, Bougainville and Holmes reefs) sign up for a liveaboard trip from Cairns. Some of the nicest reefs visited on day trips include Agincourt Reef (off Port Douglas) and John Brewer Reef (off Townsville). John Brewer Reef is also home to the Coral Greenhouse, part of an underwater installation series known as the Museum of Underwater Art.

Closer to Townsville, the century-old SS Yongala is widely considered to be one of the world’s top wreck dives.

Portrait of Great Barrier Reef dive instructor — If you haven’t got your PADI certification, you can do a course while in Australia © Matt Munro / Lonely Planet

Can I get scuba certified on the Great Barrier Reef?

The main learning centers are in Cairns, with open water courses offered by outfits like ProDive Cairns. You’ll get two days of pool and classroom training followed by two days of reef diving on day trips or three days of diving on a two-night liveaboard trip.

Advanced courses are hosted on liveaboards.

Isn’t the Great Barrier Reef dying?

It’s no secret that the Great Barrier Reef faces unprecedented threats, with approximately 73% of the 1000 reefs surveyed over the summer of 2023/24 found to be impacted by coral bleaching caused by heat stress. Other threats include coral-hungry crown-of-thorns starfish; cyclones; flooding and land-based run-off; and marine pollution.

While some parts of the reef have not recovered from bleaching events, other sections have bounced back, offering hope for the future of this dynamic ecosystem.

Visitors can help scientists monitor changes on the reef by reporting bleaching and other observations via the Eye on the Reef app. You can also support conservation efforts on a citizen science-based tour offered by the likes of Cairns-based Passions of Paradise.

What should I pack for a trip to the Great Barrier Reef?

Sun protection is vital for a trip to the Great Barrier Reef. Ensure your sunscreen is reef-safe by choosing brands that use physical UV blockers such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide rather than chemicals such as oxybenzone and octinoxate, which can damage coral.

No matter the weather forecast, pack warm layers and rain gear. And if you plan on doing a lot of snorkeling or diving, bring your own gear to save on rental costs.

Plane view of the famous Heart Reef (Great Barrier Reef) at the coastline of Airlie Beach near the Whitsunday Islands (Whitsunday Islands, Australia) — See of the famous Heart Reef in the Whitsundays on an aerial tour © Yannik Photography / Shutterstock

What about accessible travel to the Great Barrier Reef?

The Cairns region offers the widest range of accommodation, reef tours and attractions with wheelchair access, along with support for visitors with vision and hearing difficulties or other needs.

How to stay safe on Great Barrier Reef

Tourism in the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park is tightly managed to prevent injuries to visitors and the reef. Follow safety instructions and avoid touching coral and other marine life.

There have only been a handful of fatal shark encounters on the Great Barrier Reef, and jellyfish stings can be avoided by wearing a stinger suit. Outside stinger season, wearing a rash vest, swim shirt or wetsuit can help you avoid contact with non-life-threatening stinging critters such as sea lice.

It’s rare to find saltwater crocodiles on the Great Barrier Reef, but crocs are present along nearly the entire Great Barrier Reef coast. Be croc-safe and stick to designated swimming areas.

My favorite thing to do on the Great Barrier Reef

I’ve been hooked on the Great Barrier Reef since my first visit to the Whitsundays as a child. Among my favorite experiences was a recent stay on at the reef’s southern tip. Transformed from a barren coral cay to a thriving ecosystem, the island’s relaxed, family-friendly resort runs almost entirely on solar power. I loved getting up early to snorkel with turtles on the house reef, scuba diving with manta rays, and observing rare seabirds that nest on the island.

Beaches

A first-time guide to Sayulita, Mexico

The most popular of the Riviera Nayarit’s two dozen towns was once a sleepy fishing village. Yet the secret quickly spread among the surfing community – and today Sayulita draws visitors of all stripes.

Since the village is now a haven for hipster surfers and boho-chic travelers, you’ll struggle to find a spot for a selfie along the much-snapped Calle Delfìnes during the high season. Yet Sayulita is so much more than a single street lined with rainbow-colored papel picado flags.

Its location on a 200-mile stretch of Pacific coastline makes it an ideal base to explore neighboring Riviera Nayarit towns.

Sandy beaches and fresh seafood abound, the waves suit surfers of all levels, and at key times of the year the waters teem with whales stopping by during their yearly migration.

Hot spots are popular for a reason, and you shouldn’t pass on Sayulita just because other travelers have fallen in love with its bohemian vibe. You’re bound to be bewitched, too.

A classic red VW Beetle (vocho) is parked next to surfboards a few feet from the beach — Sayulita enchants all year long – though you might want to avoid the pricey high season. Roaming Pictures/Shutterstock

When should I go to Sayulita?

The beaches in Mexico boast fabulous temperatures year-round. Still, you might want to avoid traveling to Sayulita during the (relatively) rainy season, which runs from June to October.

If you have your heart set on catching a glimpse of a humpback whale, you’d be wise to travel between December and April. Yet we’d advise skipping the wildly popular small beach down in peak tourist season: around Christmas, Semana Santa (Holy Week) and August.

The best time of year to surf in Sayulita is from December to April, when the northern swells bring consistent waves.

How much time should I spend in Sayulita?

If you’re planning on sticking to just Sayulita, three days will allow you to spend some much-deserved time at the beach. But given the destination’s proximity to other towns in the Riviera Nayarit, we recommend at least five.

Begin with a visit to San Pancho, a quieter version of Sayulita that’s just a 15-minute taxi ride north. You can either go on a day trip or stay for a night.

Ten minutes from here is Lo de Marcos, another coastal town that’s ideal for an afternoon stroll. A 30-minute drive in the opposite direction of Sayulita brings you to the small, pointy peninsula of Punta de Mita, where you can enjoy fresh seafood overlooking the beach or explore the hidden coves of the Islas Marietas.

Is it easy to get in and around Sayulita?

The closest airport to Sayulita is Puerto Vallarta International Airport (PVR). From there, you can reach Sayulita by renting a car – handy for town-hopping – or by taking a taxi or bus. Any of these options will get you there in about 30 minutes.

Once in Sayulita, you’ll be able to walk almost everywhere. You can also rent a golf cart to drive within the town itself – yet these are rather pricey, and you’re not allowed to take them outside of town.

Top things to do in Sayulita

If you’re setting up camp in Sayulita for a couple of days, these are the activities you shouldn’t miss.

A male surfer rides a wave off the coast of, Sayulita, Nayarit, Mexico — Even though it’s no longer a secret place, Sayulita remains a favorite of the surfing set. Nik West/Getty Images

Get into a surf groove

Even though their secret is long out, Sayulita remains a favorite among surfers. A surfing vibe is still very much present, and you can spend hours watching pros catching waves.

If you’re more a doer than a watcher, you’ll be happy to know that Sayulita washes up waves for all levels. Even if you’ve never tried surfing before, you can take lessons to see how you fare on a surfboard – whether a longboard, short board or paddleboard.

You’ll be spoiled for choice thanks to over a dozen schools in the area. Lunazul Surf School & Shop is a family-run business with over 20 years operating on the main beach. While they do accommodate drop-ins, it’s best to book your spot in advance.

Shop for boho-chic home decor and clothing

Shopping enthusiasts can spend hours browsing the town’s unique offerings. In Sayulita, boho-chic reigns supreme, from flowy blouses to airy dresses and even kimonos.

You’ll also find eclectic pieces to dress your home, like a one-of-a-kind, yarn-painted skull crafted by the Wixarika people at Evoke the Spirit.

Owned by a French couple who fell in love with the town over 15 years ago, Pinche México Te Amo offers a playful selection of tote bags, t-shirts and other items that profess their love of Mexico through witty catchphrases.

A woman practicing yoga in a pavilion overlooking hills and the ocean — In Sayulita, you’ll find plenty of opportunities to practice yoga and indulge in wellness with inspiring ocean views. Jordan Siemens/Getty Images

Join the wellness scene and practice yoga

Yoga and overall wellness are as intrinsic to Sayulita’s vibe as surfing. Whether you’re looking for a yoga class on the beach or an immersive retreat, you’ll find it in Sayulita.

Nestled in the jungle overlooking the beach, Haramara Retreat offers intimate and secluded spaces across 12 private acres of tropical jungle. Here, guests can recharge by booking various retreats or enjoy the facilities for a day – including the private beach – with a day pass.

Open to the public, the spa has a roster of 12 massage therapists and technicians trained in deep-tissue, Swedish, reflexology, shiatsu, Chi Nei Tsang and Thai modalities.

Indulge in fresh seafood

The state of Nayarit is famous for its just-caught seafood. While in Sayulita, be sure to try shrimp aguachile (shrimp marinated in lime juice, chili and salt, and served with cucumber and red onion slices), ceviche tostadas and tasty fish tacos. Sí Señor Sayulita and Don Pedro’s both come with a side of magnificent sea views.

Dance the night away

Speaking of Don Pedro’s: this is also the place to be for Monday night salsa. From October to June, one of Sayulita’s longest-running restaurants hosts salsa classes by the sea (6:30pm for beginners and 7:30pm for advanced dancers), paired with a live salsa band and tasty food.

Spot humpback whales

Every year, humpback whales migrate to warmer waters for the winter, making December to April prime whale-watching season in Sayulita and neighboring Bahía de Banderas.

Humpback whales aren’t the only large mammals that can be spotted here: gray whales, Bryde’s whales and orcas also make occasional appearances. You can see them from catamarans, fishing boats or biologist-led trips that set off from Sayulita beach.

Idyllic, scenic sunset sky over tranquil ocean framed by palm fronds — At Sayulta’s latitude, the sunsets over the Pacific Ocean are epic. Nik West/Getty Images

My favorite thing to do in Sayulita

I spent about four months in Sayulita and the Riviera Nayarit a few years ago and I could never get over the sunsets: they’re truly something at this latitude of the Pacific.

My favorite way to experience them is without the crowds – which in Sayulita means foregoing the main beach and Playa los Muertos. Head to Playa Norte instead, toward Sayulita Turtle Camp, and find yourself an empty stretch of sand to admire the bright pinks and purples forming in the sky in solitude.

Each time I return to Sayulita there seem to be more and more tourists – so you might have to walk a bit further up the beach to enjoy the experience on your own.

How much money do I need for Sayulita?

Sayulita has accommodation options and restaurants to suit all budgets. You won’t find big chain hotels here – so if you’re after luxury, expect the barefoot-chic variety. For dining, casual eateries cater to those on a budget, while beachfront spots welcome those looking to splurge on lobster.

When you visit will impact accommodation prices, with summer being the most affordable time to stay. Just keep in mind summer is also the rainy season.

Hostel room: $600–1200 MXN (US$30–60)
Basic room for two: $1000–3000 MXN (US$50–150)
Self-catering apartment (including Airbnb) $400–1500 MXN (US$20–75)
Public transport ticket: $20 MXN (US$1)
Cappuccino / espresso: $80 MXN (US$4) / $60 MXN (US$3)
Sandwich $60 MXN (US$3)
Fish tacos $40–60 MXN (US$2–3) per taco
Dinner for two at a mid-range restaurant $600–1200 MXN (US $30–60)
Beer/pint at the bar $20 MXN (US$2)

A cobbled street lined with colorfully painted shops, with flags and decorations strewn above — Along Sayulita’s small streets, you’ll find numerous independent shops selling boho-chic clothing and artisanal gifts. Linda Raymond/Getty Images

Is Sayulita safe for travelers?

Despite its proximity to Sinaloa, with its reputation for narco violence, Nayarit is considered one of the safest destinations in Mexico.

Travelers can safely enjoy Sayulita and the rest of the Riviera Nayarit if they take standard precautions. If exploring nearby towns, for example, it’s best to avoid driving back late at night.

Can I eat the street food or drink the tap water in Sayulita?

Mexican street food is famous the world over – yet it’s always wise to be selective about where you stop for a bite. Ask yourself: does the stall look clean? Is the seafood being offered refrigerated or on ice, or has it been sitting out in the sun? Better to be choosy than ending up with a stomach bug on your trip.

As in the rest of the country, the tap water in Sayulita isn’t drinkable. Stick to bottled water and keep plenty at your hotel or accommodation for drinking at night, when shops are closed.

Romance

Honeymoon hacks: a guide for newly-weds abroad

Congratulations! You’ve taken the plunge, tied the knot, sealed the deal and said ‘I do’. You’ve well and truly earned some downtime with your new Mr or Mrs. But despite what the movies would have you believe, honeymoons aren’t always without their stresses. Here are our top tips for avoiding honeymoon pitfalls and making your getaway the trip of a lifetime.

Romantic couple with retro bike on vacation watching sunset — Before you jump into your honeymoon adventures take some time to recharge © itsskin / Getty Images

Schedule in some downtime

You’ve just thrown the biggest party of your life. You’ve people-managed warring family members, negotiated hard with scores of suppliers, and spent entire evenings hunched over a table plan. You’re pretty much a multi-tasking superhero. But even superheroes need to recharge their batteries now and again.

So even if you’re both full-on adventure junkies, don’t plan to rush headlong into a jam-packed schedule of activities, especially if you’re in a new city where you haven’t found your feet. Trust us: leave the first couple of days fairly free. Acclimatise, get to know one another again in a pressure-free zone and bask in all those wedding memories. Your brain will thank you for letting it catch up. Then chuck yourself into the fun feet first.

Whether it’s jungle-trekking or island-hopping, romance is whatever you make it! © Jacob Ammentorp Lund / Getty Images

Resist the ‘should’ brigade

A two-week beach break doesn’t quite float your boat? Don’t feel you have to cave to others’ expectations of what a honeymoon ‘should’ be. Make no mistake: the wedding business is a booming industry, and there are plenty of people chomping at the bit to profit from your love for one another. If what you both truly desire is an all-inclusive trip to a far-flung white-sand wonderland, go for it to your hearts’ content. If the idea of lying on a beach for longer than five minutes makes you break out in a rash, don’t sweat it.

Stats show that more couples than ever before are looking for adventure and activities on their honeymoons. They’ve figured out what the packaged holiday companies don’t want them to: that romance is whatever you make it, whether that’s a dozen roses, a canyoning day trip, a windy clifftop walk, or (ahem) screeching Pulp’s Common People at each other at the tops of your voices in a private karaoke booth.

Cruising through the cliffs of Ko Phi Phi Leh in a long-tail boat. Ko Phi Phi Leh, Krabi, Thailand — Budget options can lead to some of the most beautiful experiences © Andrew Watson / Getty Images

Make your budget go further

If you’re on a tight budget, the idea of throwing caution to the wind and treating yourselves can be a major source of stress. Consider setting up a honeymoon-funding wedding list. Not only will it take the pressure off your finances and let you splurge guilt-free, but it’s a wonderful way to incorporate those you love into a very special trip. Set up your list to allow contributions to specific activities: your guests will feel they’ve given you a tangible experience (especially if you add a personal touch and send them a photo of you enjoying their gift), and you can toast each present-giver as you go and feel almost as though they’re with you on your trip.

A touch of luxury is well-justified on a honeymoon, but don’t forget about the budget options too. You may well find it’s at street stalls you find the best, most authentic meals, and in the most pedestrian of experiences that you meet the most genuine people and create memories that last a lifetime.

Watch out for decision fatigue

You’ll probably have made a lot of decisions in the course of your wedding planning. Colour scheme, venue, menu, flowers, pocket squares, chair covers, table runners, lighting, favours, cutlery… It’s exhausting to even think about. And if you jet off on honeymoon straight after the wedding, it can lead to an extreme case of Decision Fatigue Syndrome (DFS). It’ll hit you at the oddest times: you’ll be happily exploring, not a care in the world, when all of a sudden you’re faced with a simple choice – ‘will it be beer or wine?’ – and BAM. Your mind empties. Your eyes glaze. You don’t know. Wine’s nice. Beer’s nice. Choose one? You couldn’t possibly! What do you want? Beer. No, wine! No, beer! Your palms become slick. You can’t. Panic.

This is entirely normal. We recommend that your partner stays on the lookout for symptoms of DFS so they can step in, calmly and quietly, to save the day. Be mindful that you may both have to act as the rescuing party at different points, so it pays to choose wisely for your partner at this point. (And, for the record, if you’re the rescuing party in this instance, play it safe and order both.)

glacier — ‘So this is your idea of a light stroll?’ © Michael DeYoung / Getty Images

Embrace the bicker

‘Nothing worth having comes easy,’ goes the saying. Travel, just like marriage, is a test – of ourselves, our limits, our beliefs and our perceptions of the world. It’s worth remembering this (of both travel and marriage) when you’re both hopelessly lost, without a map or data, exhausted, hangry, and arguing for all you’re worth about how to find the hotel. And how, frankly, you did say bringing the map would be useful, but, you know, whatever…

Conventional wisdom tells us that honeymooners should spend every second gazing lovingly into one another’s eyes. We politely call conventional wisdom out on this one. Bickering is not failure: it’s how we learn to understand each other better. Chances are you aren’t used to spending 24 hours a day with your new spouse, and no matter how well you get on, being thrown into constant company with each other can ignite irritations, especially in the challenging environment that travel inhabits. Despite – or because of – those challenges, travel makes us better people, and you’ll be a better couple for it, squabbles and all, as long as you can laugh about it afterwards.

Don’t forget the best bit, either: making up…

dreaming — Couples that dream together, stay together © Jordan Siemens / Getty Images

Coping with the comedown

It can be a monumental crash back down to earth in the weeks following your honeymoon. The wedding has been and gone, the honeymoon is over and you’re back, with the best party of your life and the trip of a lifetime behind you (along with most of your disposable income for the next decade). You may find it helps to push rosy retrospection to one side at this point and remind yourself just how free you are from planning, well, anything. Those countless evenings spent making wedding favours and cursing the day you agreed to this circus? They are all behind you, my friend.

And when that isn’t enough? Simple: book another trip! OK, so you’re probably feeling more cash-strapped than Santa on Boxing Day, but it doesn’t need to be a blow-out adventure. Book a weekend break, together or with friends, or even just designate a staycation to look forward to. ‘Travel is a state of mind,’ Paul Theroux once wrote. So make that state of mind a condition of your lives together, get dreaming about the next big trip, and you can’t go too far wrong.

Is your honeymoon on the horizon? Check out our new Honeymoon Handbook for plenty of tips and tricks to help you plan the perfect day.

Wildlife and Nature

Joshua Tree National Park: everything a first-time visitor could want to know

What makes Joshua Tree National Park so memorable? It’s a little bougie. It’s a little woo-woo. And its natural beauty is simply astonishing.

Between the Coachella Valley and the vast high desert of interior California, the park is within easy drive of marvelously midcentury playground Palm Springs and the holistic hot spot that is the city of Joshua Tree. (You don’t have to follow your hike with a martini at a Rat Pack–era lounge or a sound bath in a magical dome inspired by extraterrestrials. But you can – details below.)

The national park is where two deserts with totally different ecosystems – the Mojave and the Colorado – meet. It’s home to striking succulent-filled fields, towering rocks eroded into skull- and animal-like forms, and groves of trees with blade-like leaves.

Spend a day here and you’re less likely to ask “What desert am I in?” than “What planet have I landed on?”

And because deserts are inherently places of wonder, first-time visitors are likely to have many questions. Is Joshua Tree National Park doable as a day trip from Palm Springs? What about from Los Angeles? Will I see actual trees named Joshua? And where do I find the dome that must have been designed by aliens?

Curious? We have answers.

When should I go to Joshua Tree National Park?

As you probably guessed, desert-based Joshua Tree gets blazing hot in the summer – like, triple-digits-every-day hot. This does make May through September the low season, when you’re more likely to score deals on hotel rates. The blazing heat, however, can be dangerous, so visitors are advised to check the weather daily and stay flexible with plans, whether limiting outdoor activities to early mornings (before 9am) or evenings (after 5pm), or avoiding them altogether. The park also warns guests of increased bee activity during summer, which may persuade anyone with an allergy to visit in the cooler months.

October through April is peak season, with April being especially busy because of the Coachella Valley Music and Arts Festival in nearby Indio (about 25 miles from the park’s south entrance). While it’s always fun to mix music with outdoor adventure, you’re likely to pay an arm and a leg for lodging everywhere from Palm Springs to Pioneertown, including every Airbnb and converted Airstream in the area. Fall, winter and spring have pleasant daytime temperatures for hiking and climbing, ranging from low 60s to mid 80s (F) – but nights can get cold, especially December through February, when it can dip into the 30s.

A woman stokes a camp fire near her tent at night in Joshua Tree National Park, California, USA — If you’re on an extended visit to Joshua Tree, consider camping under the stars © Alex Treadway / Getty Images

How much time should I spend in Joshua Tree National Park?

There’s enough desert eye candy to treat your senses for a week…or much more. But if, say you’re visiting Palm Springs and want a national-park pit stop, a shorter visit can work. (For that post-hike martini back in Palm Springs, by the way, head to Melvyn’s.) A day trip from Los Angeles, however, is ambitious – to say the least. Depending on traffic (which is guaranteed in Southern California), the drive is between 3 and 4 hours each way. Count on staying overnight near the park.

If you have one day…

Stick to hiking the trails near the park’s west and north entrances, which open up to the Mojave Desert. With higher elevations than the Colorado Desert portion of the park, the Mojave is home to mind-boggling boulders and otherworldly rock formations as well as the park’s namesake trees – and you can’t visit Joshua Tree National Park without laying eyes on one.

If you have a weekend…

With at least two days, you can explore both the Mojave Desert portion of the park (mentioned above) and the Colorado Desert side, which is known for its fields of fuzzy-looking cacti. While you won’t have time to trek every foot of trail, you’ll be able to get in a few solid hikes and still have time for some scenic drives. You can also spend the night. While there are no hotels within the park, there are 500 campsites, most of which can be reserved up to 6 months in advance.

If you have a week or more…

The California desert is your oyster. Hike to your heart’s content inside the park, then branch out to nearby trails like Tahquitz Canyon near Palm Springs, home to a seasonal 60ft-high waterfall. In addition to visiting Palm Springs, sneak in a day trip to Idyllwild, a charming mountain town that’s a great respite from the desert on extra-hot days. A week is also plenty of time to explore the unique towns and quirky attractions north of the park. Visit an Old West–style town originally built as a film set in the 1940s (Pioneertown), see sculptures made from defunct TVs and toilets (Noah Purifoy Desert Art Museum in Joshua Tree) and get a sound bath at that alien-designed dome mentioned above (the Integratron in Landers).

A freshly paved road at dusk, Joshua Tree National Park, California, USA — Paved roads will take you through Joshua Tree National Park – but you’ll need a car © West Coast Scapes / Shutterstock

Is it easy to get in and around Joshua Tree National Park?

Yes – if you have a car. The park has paved roads so it’s entirely accessible, but there’s no public transportation within the park, and cell service is too spotty to count on calling for a ride. Once you’ve arranged your own set of wheels, be sure to arrive with a full tank of gas and plenty of drinking water, as there aren’t gas stations, restaurants or grocery stores in the park.

The closest airport is Palm Springs International Airport, 45 miles away.

Top things to do in Joshua Tree National Park

Stroll among thousands of teddy-bear cholla cacti

Like so many of Joshua Tree’s trails, the Cholla Cactus Garden proves that mileage isn’t the only thing that will get your heart pumping. Only a quarter-mile loop, the path teems with eye-catching cacti with fuzzy-looking limbs that almost resemble the outreached arms of a teddy bear. These plants are definitely prickly, though – so we don’t recommend going in for a hug.

Male boulderer moving up a boulder at dusk, Joshua Tree National Park, California, USA — Joshua Tree National Park is a hub of rock climbing and bouldering © Manuel Sulzer / Getty Images

Scale a monzogranite rock formation

All those captivating crags and bewitching boulders aren’t just pretty scenery. Joshua Tree National Park draws rock-climbing enthusiasts of all levels to its more than 8000 climbing routes. Hiring a guide, especially if you’re new to the sport and/or the park, is always a good idea. Cliffhanger Guides, Joshua Tree Guides and Stone Adventures all offer half-day and full-day adventures.

Hike a historical gold mine

What today is an area of hiking gold was once a literal goldmine. Over the course of about 40 years in the last century, Lost Horse Mine produced today’s equivalent of $5 million in silver and gold, making it one of the most successful mines in the park. These days, the tunnels and mill are fenced off, but you can still see artifacts and ruins in the area, including stone houses where the miners lived. Out and back, Lost Horse Mine Trail is 4 miles, or you can take a looping route that’s 7 miles total.

Get a glimpse of the Milky Way

Thanks to very little light pollution, Joshua Tree is one of the rare International Dark Sky Places in the USA – which means it’s a prime place for stargazing. The park has four designated stargazing areas that are especially dark: the parking lots of Quail Springs, Hidden Valley, Cap Rock and Ryan Mountain.

A woman standing on a large boulder overlooking Hidden Valley Trail, Joshua Tree National Park, California, USA — The Hidden Valley Nature Trail offers fabulous photo opps without too much effort © Dan Hanscom / Shutterstock

My favorite things to do on a Joshua Tree National Park trip

Get maximum hiking excitement for minimal sweat

The photos will show your family and friends that you scaled gargantuan granite boulders beneath the Mojave Desert sun. But they don’t have to know the hike was only a mile. That’s why I’m a huge fan of the Hidden Valley Nature Trail: an easy, flat loop that’s doable for even my 1-year-old from the comfort of his stroller. But the views and opportunities for scrambling up rock formations make you feel like a true adventurer, no matter your age.

Stay at a souped-up roadside motel

In recent years, California has been in the midst of a motel renaissance, with hoteliers rehabbing atmospheric if simple properties dating to the 1940s and ’50s. These resurrected roadside palaces are my preferred accommodations around Joshua Tree: they feel as timeless as a national park getaway. Take your pick from Pioneertown Motel, where legend has it Gene Autry played poker from sundown to sun up in room #9; Harmony Motel, where U2 was photographed in their Joshua Tree era; and Mojave Sands, renovated by a former furniture maker for Marc Jacobs.

Catch a concert at a saloon-style music venue

Another reason I like to stay at the Pioneertown Motel: it’s a 2-minute shuffle from there to Pappy & Harriet’s, a former cantina and biker bar that now hosts musicians like Orville Peck and Patti Smith for intimate performances. Even if you don’t come for a concert, you can still stop in for barbecue, burgers and cactus-flower cocktails.

People dining at Pappy & Harriet’s restaurant and music venue, Pioneertown, California, USA — Pappy & Harriet’s is a Pioneertown cantina that often houses famous music acts © BrianPIrwin / Shutterstock

How much money do I need for Joshua Tree National Park?

Both in terms of activities and your budget, Joshua Tree National Park is a choose-your-own-adventure kind of place. You can splurge on a house with a pool, or snag a campsite for only slightly more than your breakfast burrito. A heads up: hotels and house rentals in Palm Springs skew more expensive than those in the high desert. Within the latter, lodging in Twentynine Palms offers better value than Pioneertown or Joshua Tree town.

Joshua Tree National Park entrance pass: $15 per person per week for those entering on foot or bike; $30 per private vehicle per week, including all passengers
Campsite in the park: $15–25 per night
Campsite outside the park: $44 pernight
High desert hotel room: $150–300 per night
Palm Springs hotel room: $250–600 per night
High desert three-bedroom home rental: $250–350 per night
Palm Springs three-bedroom home rental: $500-$600 per night
Cup of coffee: $4
Breakfast burrito: $12
Burgers and fries for two: $35
Beer at a bar: $7
Cactus flower cocktail: $14
Souvenir t-shirt: $25
Half-day rock-climbing guide: $138 per person (for group of four)
Tickets for a Concert at Pappy & Harriet’s: $70
Public sound bath at the Integratron: $55 per person

The Milky Way shines over a Joshua tree in Joshua Tree National Park, California, USA — Visit the park after dark to gaze at the astonishing stars above © Etienne Laurent / AFP via Getty Images

Frequently asked questions about Joshua Tree National Park

Are some of Joshua Tree National Park’s three entrances busier than others?

The west entrance, near the town of Joshua Tree, is the busiest, with waits up to an hour on weekends during peak months. Exiting here also gets busy just after sunset. Near Twentynine Palms, the north entrance is less busy; the south entrance, near Cottonwood Spring, is usually the least crowded.

Are there picnic areas in Joshua Tree National Park?

Get your breakfast burritos to go: the park has eight picnic areas (Cottonwood, Indian Cove, Live Oak, Split Rock, Cap Rock, Hidden Valley, Quail Springs and Black Rock).

What time does Joshua Tree National Park close?

It doesn’t! The park is open 24/7, making it especially great for stargazing.

What should I pack for Joshua Tree National Park?

Pack plenty of layers, especially if you’re visiting in the winter when daytime weather may be sunny and 65°F – but dipping town as low as the 30s come night. A sizable water jug, comfortable hiking shoes, sunscreen and a hat are also key.

Was the album art for The Joshua Tree by U2 shot in the park?

The bad news: no. The good news: no need to waste your time searching for the famous cover tree. The desert landscape featuring a lone Joshua tree (Yucca brevifolia), featured on the inside cover of the album, was actually shot about four hours north of the region, much closer to Death Valley National Park. Sadly, that particular tree is no more. But a dedicated fan dropped a bronze plaque in its place inscribed with the question, “Have you found what you’re looking for?”

Romance

First-time France: where to go and what to do

France is the world’s top tourist destination for good reason – artistic and architectural masterpieces, remarkable museums and natural landscapes, and a history harking back far beyond the Romans. Top it off with fine wine, food, and a culinary culture that permeates through every city and small town. This first-timer’s guide to things to do in France can help you narrow down the best places to go, along with other top tips to make the most of your visit.

Paris

France’s chic, sexy capital has to be experienced at least once. Mix picture-postcard icons with simple Parisian moments and you’ll truly fall in love with the city. Scale the Eiffel Tower then walk or cycle along the Seine, or cruise down it on a bateau-mouche. Stroll by Notre Dame, which is closed for extensive renovation works following the 2019 fire, and grab a coffee at Café Saint-Régis, ice-cream at Berthillon or super juice at literary cafe of mythical bookshop Shakespeare & Company. Hit the Louvre then collapse on a bench with a Pierre Hermé macaron in the Tuileries or Jardin du Palais Royal. Delve into hilltop Montmartre with a local Paris Greeter. Escape to posh leafy Versailles and come back blown away by France’s most famous chateau.

You might like: When is the best time to go to Paris?

Chateau de Chambord, an impressive white-brick renaissance building with turrets and a grey slate roof. There is a large body of still water in front of the castle that perfectly mirrors the cloudy blue sky above — Château de Chambord is one of the Loire Valley’s most visited chateaux. StevanZZ / Shutterstock

Loire Valley

The lush Loire Valley is scattered with stunning French castles, or châteaux. Stand in awe of the Renaissance castle Château de Chambord, and graceful Château de Chenonceau astride the Cher River. Château de Blois, with its whistle-stop tour of French architecture, and classical Château de Cheverny is the perfect one-day combo. In summer put the gardens at Château de Villandry and Château d’Azay-le-Rideau after dark on your hit list. Base yourself in Tours, Blois or Amboise; hire a bike to pedal along the Loire riverbanks at least once; and try to catch a son-et-lumière (sound-and-light) show.

French Riviera

This strip of seashore on the big blue Med has it all – hence the extreme crowds in summer. The seaside town of Nice is the queen of the Riviera with its cutting-edge art museums, belle époque architecture, pebble beaches and legendary promenade. Take glitzy day trips keeping an eye out for film stars in Cannes, Formula One drivers in Monaco, and hobnobbing celebs and socialites in St-Tropez. Sensational views make the drive along the three coastal roads from Nice to Menton an absolute must. Otherwise, grab your hiking boots and stride out in the fiery Massif de l’Estérel for brilliant red-rock mountain scenery.

Lavender and sunflower field. — Summer brings incredible colors to the fields in Provence. Linhking / 500px

Provence

Check all devices are fully charged: the extraordinary light and landscape in this part of France’s south demands constant snapping and sharing. Start with Marseille, a millennia-old port with striking museums such as the anthropological MuCEM and coastline straight off a film set. Inland, zoom in on glorious Roman amphitheaters and aqueducts in Nîmes, Orange and at the Pont du Gard. Drive past lavender fields and cherry orchards to hilltop villages and food markets in the bucolic Luberon and Vaucluse regions. No lens is large enough for the peak of Mont Ventoux (a cyclist’s paradise) or the Gorges du Verdon, Europe’s deepest canyon with 2620ft (800m) sheer-drop cliffs and startling emerald green water, no filter required.

Champagne

The sparkling viticulture region of Champagne in northern France is all class. Where else can you sip champers in centuries-old cellars and taste your way through vineyards and medieval villages straight out of a Renoir painting? Stay in Reims (pronounced something similar to “rance”) or Épernay to visit Pommery, Mumm, Moët & Chandon and other big-name Champagne houses. In Reims, pick a clear day to scale the tower of the cathedral where dozens of French kings were crowned. From both towns, scenic Champagne driving routes thrust motorists into the heart of this intoxicating region.

The magical abbey of Mont St-Michel against a very dramatic colourful sunset. The abbey sits across a plain of smooth white sand — Don’t miss the magical abbey of Mont St-Michel. Jean Surprenant / Getty Images

Brittany and Normandy

A wind-buffeted part of northern France, Brittany and Normandy were created especially for outdoor fiends and history buffs with sensational seafood, cliff-top walks, a craggy coastline and ancient sights steeped in lore and legend. Top billing is Mont St-Michel, a magical mysterious abbey-island, best approached barefoot across the sand with a guide. Hire a bicycle to explore the Carnac megaliths strewn along Brittany’s southern coast (wear a windbreaker). Normandy’s time-travel masterpiece is the Bayeux tapestry but it’s the heart-wrenching D-Day beaches and WWII war cemeteries nearby that will really take you back to a moment in history.

Read more: How to explore the D-Day beaches

French Alps

The French Alps is one massive outdoor playground, which pumps during the ski season (December to April) when insanely challenging slopes and trails entice adrenaline junkies from everywhere. Mont Blanc prevails, and party town Chamonix is the place to get up close to its might and majesty – the mountain panorama from the top of the Aiguille du Midi cable car is the best there is, whatever the season. If small and chic is more your style then strap on the skis in Megéve-St-Gervais. To let rip after dark over hardcore après-ski head to Val d’Isère or Méribel and Courchevel in Les Trois Vallées.

Walking shoes
French phrasebook
Lonely Planet’s Paris City Guides App
Adaptor for France’s two-pin plugs
Raincoat and umbrella (particularly for Paris and northern climes)
Sunscreen and mosquito repellent (particularly for southern France)
Detailed road map and/or GPS device

Essential phrases

Hello: Bonjour
Good afternoon: Bon après-midi
Good evening: Bonne soirée
Goodbye: Au revoir
Please: S’il vous plaît
Thank you: Merci
Do you speak English?: Parlez-vous anglais?
I am lost!: Je suis perdu!
Please can I reserve a table for two/four people: Je voudrais réserver une table pour deux/quatre personnes s’il vous plaît.

An aerial shot of a trainline with a bridge over a body of water — TGV are high-speed trains. Enzojz / Getty Images

Getting around

Regular trains link cities and main towns. Check schedules and buy tickets at SNCF. Traveling around by car buys freedom, flexibility and a ticket to rural France. Motorists drive on the right side of the road and pay to use autoroutes (motorways). Plot routes, toll and fuel costs with autoroutes.

Bicycle is a brilliant way of navigating towns and cities, including Paris. Sleek cycling paths link sights in the gorgeous and flat Loire Valley, Provence (not so flat) and Brittany. Research routes with France Vélo Tourisme.

6 amazing US winter resorts that offer more than just skiing

Mountain spas. Dog-sledding. Hot springs. Mulled wine by a roaring fire. Many ski resorts offer much more than just skiing. If you’re looking for a winter weekend break filled with fun and cozy activities, you don’t need to hit the slopes to enjoy the charms of a ski resort.

Sure, you can also throw yourself down the side of a snow-capped mountain with nothing for support but two sticks. That might be fun for some people, but if it’s not your thing, you don’t have to miss out on a fantastic winter vacation. While your friends or family conquer the slopes, you can have your own adventure.

There are numerous fantastic ski towns in the USA that offer a lot more than just skiing. Whether you’re seeking no-ski activities or a unique ski town experience, these six mountain towns brimming with charm and adventure in the US are worth a visit this winter.

A late-winter hiker making the most of the photography opportunities near Telluride, Colorado. YayaErnst/Getty Images

1. Telluride, Colorado

Best for breweries and nightly entertainment

Nestled in the southwest corner of Colorado, Telluride looks and feels like a proper Swiss winter mountain resort. The Rocky Mountain town is renowned for its ski resorts – and over the years, it has developed a variety of activities for non-skiers to enjoy in winter, too, with opportunities for snowshoeing, ice-skating, dog-sledding and more. For something new, try fat-tire biking. Rent these specially tailored bikes from San Juan Outdoor Adventures to cycle steadily across the snow. You can also soak in a natural hot spring in the revamped 19th-century ghost town of Dunton Hot Springs, just across the mountain from Telluride.

If you want to escape the winter chill, duck into the Telluride Historical Museum, or one of the town’s many independent shops and boutiques. You’ll find a dizzying number of breweries and distilleries to enjoy here, too, with something for all tastes. Most breweries, including the Telluride Brewing Company and Smugglers Brew Pub, have cozy on-site restaurants where you can tuck into plates of comfort food that will warm you up instantly. The ski town also has lots of evening entertainment to get you out on a chilly night.

Planning tip: Telluride is well known for its popular September film festival. Yet, even during a winter break, you can soak up some movie magic. Located in the former Old First National Bank Building, the historic Nugget Theater offers the charm of an old-school cinema.

Fat-tire snow cycling offers an exciting way to get a winter sports fix: no skis required. Predrag Vuckovic/Getty Images

2. Sun Valley, Idaho

Best for ice hockey and art galleries

If alpine skiing isn’t your jam, try Nordic skiing (cross-country skiing). In the glorious mountains of Idaho, Sun Valley Nordic Center has almost 125 miles of groomed cross-country ski trails, in addition to snowshoeing and fat-biking among its winter activities. If a motorized adventure is more appealing, take a guided tour on a snow machine at Smiley Creek Lodge in Sawtooth City. Sun Valley has hundreds of miles of groomed trails as well as backcountry bowls that are open to snowmobiles.

If you’d rather watch than participate in winter sports, get into the spirit and join local fans to cheer on the Sun Valley Suns hockey team, which goes head-to-head with other teams from the surrounding mountain towns at Campion Ice House in neighboring Hailey. Sun Valley is also one of America’s top towns for culture and is filled with local galleries featuring Western and contemporary art.

Local tip: The Spa at Sun Valley Lodge offers a relaxing oasis for massages, body rituals like Ayurvedic balancing treatments, and other spa-style wellness and healing modalities.

Take the gondola above Snowmass and hit the alpine coaster for more thrills and spills. Josh Hild/Getty Images

3. Aspen (Snowmass), Colorado

Best for thrill seekers

The towering Rocky Mountains aren’t the only thing that will take your breath away when you visit Aspen (Snowmass). Take the Elk Camp Gondola to the top of Snowmass to board the Breathtaker Alpine Coaster, which soars through the Snowmass wilderness and over the ski runs at up to 28 miles per hour. (This winter fun will thrill the kids.) Or sign up for Ullr Nights, select Friday nights that offer coaster rides, tubing, s’mores, music, dinner and other fun things non-skiers will love.

For a more laid-back no ski vacation, hop aboard the Aspen Mountain gondola for a 15-minute ride that takes you up 3200ft to lunch on the sundeck. There’s also free ice skating in the Snowmass Base Village and complimentary snowshoe adventures at the Limelight Snowmass.

Flight of beer at von Trapp Brewing Bierhall in Stowe, Vermont. Mark Read for Lonely Planet

4. Stowe, Vermont

Best for food, drink and shopping

This classic New England destination is scenic, inviting and neighborly – it’s also one of the best winter resorts for non-skiers. Since the locavore movement (eating sustainably grown local goods) started in Vermont, Stowe’s dining scene is a celebration of locally sourced ingredients served with a creative twist. Take the Mansfield Gondola to grab a farm-to-table lunch at Cliff House at the top of Vermont’s highest peak. Then browse the town’s 50 unique boutiques, country stores, galleries, specialty markets, sporting goods stores and other retailers.

No skiing? No problem. Make a stop at the Vermont Ski & Snowboard Museum to learn the history of skiing and riding in the Green Mountain State. Then lace up your ice skates for a glide around the outdoor rink in the shadow of Mt Mansfield at the Lodge at Spruce Peak before grabbing a drink in the lobby of Spruce Peak and watching the snow fall through floor-to-ceiling windows.

Get to a natural hot spring in Jackson Hole, Wyoming for a relaxing soak. melissamn/Shutterstock

5. Jackson Hole, Wyoming

Best for soaking in hot springs

One of the best ski towns in the US, Wyoming’s famous vacation destination isn’t just for well-to-do skiers: there’s plenty to do on and off the mountains. First, take the legendary Jackson Hole Aerial Tram: in nine minutes, you’ll ascend 4139 ft as you enjoy 360-degree mountain views of the Tetons and Jackson Hole valley.

Down below, between the ski shops, there’s plenty of shopping in Teton Village, as well as in the historic town of Jackson (easy to access via public bus), whether you’re looking for handmade knives, locally distilled spirits or trendy apparel. If you’re in the mood for a different kind of winter adventure, arrange for a sleigh ride, dog sledding, snowmobiling or snow-coach tour through the National Elk Refuge. At Astoria Hot Springs Park on the banks of the Snake River, you can soak your cares away in the shadow of the Tetons surrounded by a 95-acre park.

Local tip: At Jackson Hole Aerial Tram, grab a waffle at Corbet’s Cabin at the top.

Book a guide to experience the thrill of winter fly-fishing when in Park City, Utah. Layne V. Naylor/Shutterstock

6. Park City, Utah

Best for bobsledding, fly fishing and paddleboard yoga

Non-skiers will find plenty to explore in Park City, Utah. History buffs will love the town’s idyllic Main St, with its 47 buildings on the National Register of Historic Places. Wander through this “Western Saloon Town,” and you’ll find an abundance of boutique shops, restaurants and galleries to explore.

If you still want to get outside, Escape Room Park City lets you challenge yourself with an outdoor scavenger hunt. For exercise, consider stand-up paddleboard yoga in a geothermal crater with Park City Yoga Adventures, or snow-season fly fishing in blue-ribbon-awarded riverways through Park City Fly Fishing Guides. Ever wondered what it feels like to soar down a bobsled course? Wonder no more. At Utah Olympic Park, you can race down the same track used in the 2002 Salt Lake City Olympic Games.

Stellar food and drink options abound in Park City. The Viking Yurt welcomes guests by sleigh ride to an elaborate, Norwegian-inspired tent. And the trip up to Rime Seafood & Raw Bar at Deer Valley Resort, via the Jordanelle Gondola, is almost as satisfying as the menu of decadent oysters, clams, shellfish and other delicacies.

Who says you need to ski to get the most out of the best winter resorts in the US?

Adventure Travel

13 stunning Irish islands to add to your itinerary

There are few places in the world that can match the beauty of Ireland’s islands. Even on wet, misty days, the islands are compelling. Their rugged features become more dramatic. They inspire stories – and adventures. Hundreds of islands dot the coastline of Ireland, each offering something special. From wild tales of pirate queens and one-eyed warrior kings to surprising appearances of wild wallabies or a tropical lagoon in Irish waters, the islands offer a uniquely Irish experience.

Landscape with mountains and ocean at Keem beach. Achill, Ireland — Achill Island was one of the filming locations for the Banshees of Inisherin © Rihardzz/Shutterstock

1. Achill Island, County Mayo

Best for cinematic landscapes, outdoor adventures and basking sharks

Along with the Aran island of Inis Mór, Achill was the location for the fictional island of Inisherin in the Oscar-nominated The Banshees of Inisherin. Director Martin McDonagh wanted to capture the beauty of Ireland’s western islands on screen with the island becoming another protagonist in the film. Home to towering sea cliffs, soaring mountains, sheltered bays and secret beaches, the scenery is striking indeed.

But the island isn’t just getting by on its looks. The second most populous island in Ireland after the Great Island in County Cork, there are plenty of things to do like hiking, cycling, rock climbing and canoeing. It’s also a great spot for surfing ⁠– particularly along the wind-bashed Dooagh Strand ⁠– and swimming at the island’s many Blue Flag beaches. Start your day with a morning swim in Keem Bay, a white-sand beach that occasionally attracts basking sharks. Hike the Cliffs of Croaghaun or learn more about the island’s history from local guides on the Colony Tour or the Deserted Village Tour.

Get there: The island is connected by a bridge and makes for an easy day trip from mainland Mayo. You can also bike on the Great Western Greenway, a 26-mile trail that starts in Westport. Westport Bike Hire organizes twice-daily shuttles between Westport and Achill if you don’t have your own wheels.

A person stands on the top of high, narrow piece of rock jutting directly up from the sea. — Tory Island © Iain Miller

2. Tory Island, County Donegal

Best for sea dives, mythology and kings

Tory Island is the most remote of the Irish islands. With a population of roughly 140 people, just one hotel and a handful of B&Bs, the buzz of city life fades away quickly here, with the feeling of bygone days taking its place. As part of Donegal’s Gaeltacht region, Irish is the first language here, but English is also spoken.

Tory is a swimmer’s and diver’s dream. Take a dip at the harbor or book a diving session with Mevagh Dive Centre to investigate the wreck of the HMS Wasp, a Royal Navy gunboat whose crew was en route to evict poor tenant families in 1884. It’s said that the island’s Neolithic cursing stone, Cloch na Mallacht, was used to steer the ship off course and toward its untimely end.

Tory Island is rich in folklore, with Balor, the one-eyed warrior king of the mythological Irish superrace, the Fomorians, ruling there. On the east coast of the island, the ruins of his fort (Dún Balor) look out across the sea. From here, you can see An Eochair Mhór (the big key), a long spur that juts out from a peninsula, forming An Tor Mór (the big rock), where Balor imprisoned his daughter. The locals also have a longstanding tradition of choosing a king to represent them; but the last King of Tory passed away in October 2018.

Get there: Ferries for Tory Island depart daily from Magheraroarty Pier, County Donegal. The journey takes roughly 45 minutes and you can book tickets online.

An aerial view of the island on a sunny day, including a prehistoric stone fort, green fields and stone walls — Dreamy Inis Meáin © Chris Hill

3. Inis Meáin, County Galway

Best for Irish literary history and scenic seascapes

With 200 people living on the island, Inis Meáin (Inishmaan) has the smallest population of the three Aran Islands. Since the community is predominantly Irish-speaking, you can immerse yourself in traditional culture while getting back to nature. While it’s the least visited of the Aran Islands, it offers plenty to do, including beach swims, scenic diving spots, ancient ruins and traditional music sessions in the Teach Ósta pub.

The island is small, so you can take in the sights on foot, stopping off to admire wildflowers or swimming by the old port. But if you really want to get to know the island, rent a bike.

Close to the prehistoric stone fort of Dún Chonchúir is the holiday cottage of the playwright JM Synge, who is said to have drawn inspiration for The Playboy of the Western World here. The 300-year-old Teach Synge cottage is now open to the public as a library and a museum. Synge’s chair was a writing spot the author cherished, thanks to its views that overlook the island’s “puffing holes,” where sea water rushes in through a series of natural channels in the cliffs to create a spray.

Elsewhere on the island, you can view stained glass windows from the studio of renowned artist Harry Clarke in the Mary Immaculate Church or pick up a traditional Aran sweater from Inis Meain Knitting Company.

Get there: You can fly with Aer Arann in a 10-seat plane from Connemara Airport. You can also take the ferry: 50 minutes from Ros a’ Mhil (Rossaveel) with Aran Island Ferries, or 20 minutes from Doolin with Doolin Ferry.

The bay is the island at sunset — Clare Island Castle Harbour © Kevin Gillmor

4. Clare Island, County Mayo

Best for pirate tales, mountain hiking and mindfulness

Mayo’s Clew Bay is said to have 365 islands – one for each day of the year – yet, in reality, it has 117, and Clare Island is the largest. With hills and mountains filled with historical sites and a Blue Flag beach, it’s a perfect island for outdoor activities.

Macalla Farm is a family-run retreat center that combines yoga, horses, food and mindfulness. Since it’s also a working farm, most of the food is produced on-site, with vegetarian meals available to guests throughout their stay. Crisscrossing the island are several walking and hiking routes that will knock the cobwebs out of your head. Two of the most popular are Clew Bay Archaeological Trail, which includes stop-offs at the 13–15th century abbey and a megalithic court tomb, and the Knocknaveena Loop, which takes you up and around Knocknaveen Mountain.

Things weren’t always so peaceful here. Clare Island is the ancestral home of Gráinne Mhaoil, the fearsome and legendary Pirate Queen Grace O’Malley. Notorious for wreaking havoc at sea for most of the 16th century, she used her castle here to control the waters of Clew Bay. (You can still visit Granuaile’s Castle today.)

Nowadays there’s plenty to do at night, with the two pubs regularly putting on trad nights as entertainment, balancing the calm of the retreat with the storm of the session.

Get there: It takes approximately 25 minutes to get to Clare Island by ferry from Roonagh Pier, County Mayo. You can book ferry tickets from either Clare Island Ferry Co. or O’Malley Ferries.

A sandy track surrounded by dry bushes leading to a beach. — Inishbofin is home to some of the cleanest beaches in Ireland © Henry Donald/Getty

5. Inishbofin, County Galway

Best for sustainable tourism, food festivals and historical walking tours

One of the most popular islands to visit in Ireland, Inishbofin is both steeped in history and a center for sustainable tourism. As the first Leave No Trace island in the country, a number of its beaches – including East End and Dumhach – have already received the Green Coast Award for environmental excellence thanks to their crystal-clear waters.

Walking tours are a huge draw for visitors here. On three official walking loops, you can take in sights like the Dún More Cliffs, one of the island’s two seal colonies, the 14th-century chapel of St Colman’s and panoramic views of Croagh Patrick, Inishturk and Clare Island. Alternatively, you can walk with the local historians and archaeologists of Cultúr na nOileáin Tours, who will tell you more about the island’s history, including its involvement with a certain Pirate Queen.

Gráinne Mhaol built another castle for herself here, aptly named Dún Gráinne, when her family took ownership of the island. Her Spanish pirate pal Alonzo Bosco built a castle opposite hers – and with these prime viewing spots, they prevented unwanted ships from entering the island by stretching an iron chain castle to castle, looting the cargo from the unfortunately ensnared vessels.

Inishbofin is also famous for its locally produced organic food. The annual food festival Bia Bó Finne, which draws hundreds of visitors each autumn, is a testament to this tradition.

Get there: To get to Inishbofin, you have to get a ferry from Cleggan Harbour, an hour and a half away from Galway City. The crossing time is roughly 30 minutes; you can book tickets for your trip online.

Young people standing on the beach as the sun is going down. There is a small stage surrounded by fairy lights on the beach — Inishturk beach © Allen Kiely

6. Inishturk, County Mayo

Best for world-class crab, lagoons and to feel like a local

Inishturk is the island less traveled. And with a population of just 54 people, you can easily end up feeling like a local rather than a tourist. The beating heart of Turk is its community center – which is also the island’s pub, shop and restaurant – where you can eat freshly caught lobster, pollock, mackerel and perhaps the best crab in the world.

But beyond the people, the hills are begging to be explored. The island’s ring road is exactly 5km (3 miles) long ⁠– perfect for runners. Further down the beaten track is the island’s GAA sports pitch, the most westerly one in Europe and – framed by rugged hills. Not far from this is another breathtaking view of Port Dún. This beautiful lagoon harbor is said to be the hiding spot of Gráinne Mhaol’s gold, and makes for a great spot for a swim.

Fishing is one of the island’s main draws and private angling trips can be arranged. But if you’d rather see the pros in action, Turk’s annual Seafest is a great excuse for a visit. The event blends music, wellness, eating and observing; expect to do beach yoga and learn the art of sean nós dancing, foraging or fileting a fish – all in one weekend.

Get there: Inishturk is 50 minutes by ferry from Roonagh Pier, which is not far from gorgeous Westport. Book tickets for your journey here.

A man walks down a narrow rural road carrying his jacket. There are stone walls on either side and green fields all around. — Sherkin Island road © Maeve O’Neill

7. Sherkin Island, County Cork

Best for peace, quiet and an artistic vibe

The green hills, sandy beaches and jagged shorelines of Sherkin Island in West Cork contain a total population of 111 people. As the ferry pulls into the pier, you’ll see the ruins of Mainster Inis Arcain, the island’s 15th-century friary. And it’s all uphill from there. Literally.

Take the many twists on the main road to North Shore, with every turn showing a different side of the island, from leafy green canopies of the woodland trees to the dramatic coastline of Cow Strand Beach. With four walkways weaving throughout the island, each one catering to different walking abilities, you can take in the sights before settling into The Jolly Roger for a deserved evening pint. Home to artists, writers and musicians, the island crackles with creativity and locally made knitwear, silverwork, jewelry, wrought-iron pieces, candlesticks and decorative silk scarves are all available to buy.

Living at one of the most southerly points in Ireland, the people of Sherkin Island boast of their own warm microclimate. During the summer months, the island is a hub of activity with events like the Open Ear music festival, which specializes in contemporary art and alternative music. Even though things quiet down during winter, it remains a perfect retreat from the fast pace of life elsewhere.

Get there: A ferry from Baltimore, County Cork takes 10 minutes. Book your journey online.

A close up of two puffins with their heads close together, standing on a rock — Kissing puffins on the Saltee Islands © Saverio Morpurgo / 500px

8. Saltee Islands, County Wexford

Best for a nature-filled day trip in a birdwatcher’s paradise

Just off the southern coast of County Wexford lie the two privately owned islands of Great Saltee and Little Saltee. Day visits to Great Saltee are permitted by the island’s residents, the Neale family, though Little Saltee is inaccessible due to the dangerous currents that surround it.

The Saltees are home to Ireland’s most famous bird sanctuary, with birds from all over the world stopping off on this busy migratory route. It’s also one of the few breeding locations for grey seals in eastern Ireland. When visiting the Saltees, you are asked to fully respect the island’s inhabitants, carrying out your own rubbish and avoiding the private home of the Neale family.

Perfect for picnics and rambling, Great Saltee has a rich history that will send your imagination into overdrive. The island is sometimes called the “Graveyard of a Thousand Ships,” and a number of vessels from both world wars sank off its coast. The island also has a regal past: Michael Neale, who bought the island in 1943, declared himself Prince Michael of the Saltees. “Coronated” in 1956, he built a throne, which you can still sit on, and erected an obelisk in his likeness. A mildly eccentric man, he also became a pilot – and it’s rumored that he once flew in 46 cats to deal with the island’s rat problem. Sadly, the cats are no longer there, which is probably a blessing for the birds.

Get there: The island is accessible by the Saltee Ferry from Kilmore Quay, Wexford Town. If the family is in residence, day-trippers are only allowed between 11:30am and 4:30pm; any visitors that land a boat outside of designated hours will be asked to leave. No overnight camping is permitted.

A view of Lambay Island on a sunny day from the mainland. — Lambay Island is now accessible to the public © VVlasovs/shutterstock

9. Lambay Island, County Dublin

Best for a private retreat with some unusual wildlife

Located just four kilometers off the east coast of Ireland in County Dublin, Lambay Island is privately owned, with a population of seven people, 100 red-necked wallabies, 200 fallow deer and thousands of seabirds. The island has been owned by the Barings family since 1904, and there’s an air of luxury due to the limited accommodation that’s available throughout the year.

The island has a total of 23 rooms, and only guests who have an existing connection to Lambay can stay in the renovated 15th-century castle or the White House. The rest of us can request to stay in O’Connell’s Cottage, which sits at the end of a row of 18th-century coastguard cottages and sleeps six people. If you fail to nab a bed, day tours are available, with options to go on walking and historical tours or simply to visit for lunch.

Throughout the year, various retreats are on offer including yoga, writing, foraging and cooking. The water from the island’s natural spring is not only used for drinking, washing, cooking and bathing: it’s also used to create the island’s own Lambay Whiskey.

Get there: The ferry takes 15–30 minutes from Malahide. You can book tickets from Skerries Sea Tours or find out about staying on the island here.

10. Rathlin Island, County Antrim

Best for secluded walks and rustic beauty

Rathlin Island enchants its visitors with its storied past, natural wonders and spirit of adventure. The only inhabited offshore island in Northern Ireland, Rathlin is home to about 150 people. Taking the Puffin Bus Service to the West Light Seabird Centre is a great way to observe some of the island’s other residents, including puffins and seals.

The village of Church Bay is the main hub for eating, drinking and accommodations if staying overnight on the island. From here, you can venture on foot or by bike to explore the wild, remote countryside. There are numerous trails to explore, ranging from gentle walks to challenging treks. The 6km (4 mile) Rathlin Trail showcases the dramatic landscapes of the island while offering sweeping views of the sea.

Dining options on the island are limited and some activities are cash only, so be sure to plan accordingly. However, Café Lazybird offers light, eclectic options and McCuaig’s Bar is a staple for classic pub fare and a good pint.

Get there: The passenger-only ferry service from Ballycastle makes the approximately 25-minute trip up to 10 times per day in the summer and five times per day in the winter. Booking ahead is advised.

11. Skellig Michael, County Kerry

Best for sci-fi fans

The jagged, 217m-high rock of Skellig Michael rises dramatically out of the sea 12km (7.5 miles) off the coast of County Kerry, topped with the remains of an improbable 1400-year-old early Christian monastery. The remote island famously featured as Luke Skywalker’s Jedi temple in two Star Wars movies, attracting a whole new audience to the Skelligs’ dramatic beauty.

Influenced by the Coptic Church (founded by St Anthony in the deserts of Egypt and Libya), the monks’ determined quest for ultimate solitude led them to this remote, windblown edge of Europe. Not much is known about the life of the monastery, but there are records of Viking raids in 812 and 823 CE. Although the site was expanded in the 12th century, the monks abandoned the rock soon afterward. In the 1820s, two lighthouses were built on the island, along with the road that runs around the base.

Key sites on the island include The Steps (three ancient staircases that lead to the top), the 6th-century monastery and The Hermitage, a small structure dating to the 9th century.

If you just want to see the islands up close and without having to clamber out of the boat, consider a ‘no landing’ cruise with operators such as Skellig Experience on Valentia Island.

Get there: Boat trips to the Skelligs usually run from mid-May to September (dates are announced each year by the Office of Public Works, which looks after the site), weather permitting. Boats depart from Portmagee, Ballinskelligs and Caherdaniel. The number of daily visitors is limited, with boats licensed to carry no more than 12 passengers each, so it’s wise to book well ahead.

12. Valentia Island, County Kerry

Best for history and heritage

Valentia Island is a beautiful and under-visited corner of Kerry with a rich and fascinating history. Its Latin-sounding name is actually an anglicized version of the Irish Béal Inse, meaning ‘the mouth of the island,’ a reference to the natural harbor entrance. The island is laced with narrow roads and lends itself to leisurely exploration by bike, though you could take in the main sights in a day by car.

A couple of sights explain Valentia’s role as the eastern terminus of the first transatlantic telegraph cable (the other end was at Heart’s Content in Newfoundland, Canada), established in 1866. The Valentia Transatlantic Cable Station in Knightstown (closed Mondays and Tuesdays and from November to March) chronicles the epic struggle that saw the birth of global telecommunications and is currently campaigning for Unesco World Heritage status. Also in Knightstown, Valentia Island Heritage Centre is an intriguing local museum with a treasure trove of artifacts that tell the tale of the island’s history more eloquently than any textbook.

Further flung attractions include Valentia Island Lighthouse (closed November to March), set in a 17th-century military fort at the northern tip of the island. You can visit the lightkeeper’s house and climb to the top of the lighthouse tower. Skellig Experience (closed from December to February) is just across the bridge from Portmagee at the southern end, with exhibits on local history, wildlife and the life of the Skellig Michael monks.

The local landowner has transformed the island’s highest point, Geokaun (266 meters/872 feet), into a network of easy walking trails and viewpoints, with a breathtaking outlook over the Fogher Cliffs. It’s possible to drive all the way to the top, so visitors with limited mobility don’t miss out on the views. At quieter times, the site is unstaffed, and entry is via an automatic barrier (payment with coins only).

Get there: You can get to Valentia Island via car ferry or road bridge from Portmagee.

13. Blasket Islands, County Kerry

Best for feeling like you’re on the edge of the world

The Blasket Islands (Na Blascaodaí) off the tip of the Dingle Peninsula are the most westerly part of Ireland and one of the westernmost points in Europe (after Iceland, the Azores and Rockall). All of the islands were lived on at one time or another; there is evidence of the largest, Great Blasket (An Blascaod Mór), being inhabited during the Iron Age and early Christian times. But no more – the last islanders abandoned their homes in 1953, moving to the mainland or North America after they and the government agreed that it was no longer viable to live in such harsh and isolated conditions.

The rich history and cultural life of the islands are celebrated in the Blasket Centre at Dunquin, a wonderful interpretative center housed in a striking modern building with a long white hall ending in a picture window looking directly at the islands. Great Blasket’s rich community of storytellers and musicians is profiled along with its literary visitors, such as playwright JM Synge, author of The Playboy of the Western World. The more prosaic practicalities of island life are covered by exhibits on boatbuilding and fishing.

Get there: There are two passenger services that operate in the summer: the Ferry from Dun Chaoin Pier and the Eco Ferry.

Beaches

How to plan your summer vacation on the Jersey Shore

With 130 miles of Atlantic Ocean shoreline stretching from Sandy Hook in the north to Cape May in the south, the Jersey Shore has long drawn vacationers. Back in the 1880s, well-to-do travelers would glide along the Atlantic City boardwalk being pushed in rolling chairs, a form of transportation still available to this day.

While pop culture TV shows have shown a more lively side of shore life, there’s more to the New Jersey coastline than a penchant for partying. There’s the rock-star bar scene in Asbury Park, quaint Victorian vibes in Cape May, the kid-friendly dry town of Ocean City, the historic village of Smithville and around-the-clock entertainment in Atlantic City.

Here’s how to find your ideal beach getaway in the Garden State.

Seaside Heights boardwalk and beach from above — Seaside Heights packs plenty of shoreside fun into its small footprint © FotosForTheFuture / Shutterstock

Step 1: Choose where to base yourself

With such a wide variety of options, from family-oriented beach towns and quiet suburban coves to lively cities that never sleep, it’s all about choosing your own adventure for your summer vacation.

Seaside Heights

Vibes: From beach to boardwalk, all the iconic experiences of a Jersey Shore vacation are tucked into this barrier island destination, only 16 blocks long and four blocks wide.

Do: Summer living revolves around the boardwalk. Find thrills at Casino Pier for rides, arcades and fairground games, or splash down at Breakwater Beach Waterpark.

Eat: Since 1950, Maruca’s Tomato Pies have become known for their swirls of cheese and sauce. Also a classic: a sausage and peppers sandwich from Midway Bar. Ocean View Restaurant serves American continental food and has private beach access.

Stay: With its small square footage, vacation rentals and Airbnbs provide the widest range of options. Island Beach Motor Lodge offers a modest stay, while boutique hotel Casa Del Mar up the way in Pleasant Beach provides more comfortable quarters.

Atlantic City

Vibes: The biggest city along the Jersey Shore – lovingly nicknamed “AC” – mixes beach and boardwalk traditions alongside a range of dining, entertainment and casino fun.

Do: There’s no doubt many come here to gamble. But the casinos aren’t all that AC is about. Sightseers can climb Absecon Lighthouse, the state’s tallest, while shoppers will clamor for deals at Tanger Outlets – all in addition to endless beach and boardwalk indulgences.

Eat: Famous chefs have made their mark here, including Michael Symon with Angeline and Gordon Ramsey with Hell’s Kitchen. But Rat Pack favorite Chef Vola’s, opened in 1921, might still be the hottest ticket in town. For a no-frills but tasty meal head to Pancho’s Mexican Taqueria.

Stay: Casino resorts line the oceanfront, like the Ocean Casino Resort, Hard Rock Hotel & Casino Atlantic City, and Nobu Hotel at Caesars Atlantic City, while the Borgata Hotel Casino & Spa carves out its own little cove on the inner bay slide.

Cape May

Vibes: With the second highest concentration of Victorian homes after San Francisco, Cape May offers a distinctly retro feel, and has earned itself a distinction as a National Historic Landmark.

Do: Beachgoing, dining, strolling and shopping along the throwback streets – the days just dwindle away. But golfers can take a swing at the Cape May National Golf Club, families can spot wildlife at the Cape May County Park and Zoo and birders should head to the Cape May Bird Observatory – after all, the area hosts the World Series of Birding.

Eat: Mad Batter Restaurant has been “family owned and argued” since 1976, bringing a dose of fun to its menu of crab cakes, pork chops, and blackened scallops. Other local favorites include Lucky Bones Back Water Grille and Bella Vida Cafe. But no visit to Cape May would be complete without a stop at HotDog Tommy’s – try the Bigger Bad Dog (a Black Angus dog on a soft bun).

Stay: There’s no shortage of Victorian homes to stay in, from B&Bs and little inns to vacation rentals. Among top-rated picks are the Virginia Hotel & Cottages and the Queen Victoria. Bigger resort options include the Inn of Cape May and Ocean Club Hotel. One of the area’s most unique stays is at Beach Plum Farm Cottages, located on a 62-acre working farm in West Cape May.

Step 2: Book your accommodations

To truly enjoy shore life, it’s all about booking the perfect beach house – and the competition can get fierce during the summer months. Some vacationers book their picks a year in advance! Holiday weekends can be especially challenging. But if you have some flexibility in timing and location, you may strike gold a couple months ahead of time, though a half-year in advance might be a safer bet for prime rentals.

Charming B&Bs are also plentiful, many oozing with Victorian glamor, like Angel of the Sea in Cape May, Jonathan Pitney House in Absecon, and Sea Gypsy in Wildwood, which also has carriage house suites.

If you prefer hotels, you can opt for the casino resorts of Atlantic City, or perhaps go for a beachy feel at Icona Diamond Beach Resort in Wildwood Crest or Asbury Ocean Club Hotel in Asbury Park.

Two vacationers are walking through an amusement park with fairground games and rides in Wildwood, New Jersey — The amusement parks along the Jersey Shore are sure to keep you entertained on beach days © Marc Dufresne / Getty Images

Step 3: Plan the best things to do on your Jersey Shore summer getaway

The beauty of planning a Jersey Shore vacation is that the itinerary can write itself. During the day, mix beach time with boardwalk jaunts, whether that includes stops into arcades and casinos, mini golf, amusement park rides or browsing the shops.

Those looking for more active adventures can opt for water sports of every kind, including Jet Skiing, parasailing, surfing, stand-up paddleboarding, or even parachuting. Hiking trails are also plentiful, from Cape May Point Trail in Cape May to the Bayshore Trail near the Atlantic Highlands.

Evening indulgences can include entertainment at Atlantic City casinos and iconic bars, like Asbury Park’s Stone Pony – made famous by Bruce Springsteen – or simply relaxing with an evening beach walk, enjoying the Atlantic Ocean breeze.

Step 4: Find the best beach eats, from boardwalk snacks to fine seafood

There’s a certain charm to the high-low dining options along the shore. Lazy beach days seem to pair best with boardwalk treats, be it foot-long hotdogs (Max’s Bar & Grill in Long Beach has been a mainstay for nearly a century) or frozen custard (Surfside Frozen Custard is a local favorite in Sea Girt, while Kohr’s is reliable with multiple locations from Seaside Heights to Lavalette). Also pick up some salt water taffy, since the chewy candy originated in Atlantic City.

Despite the controversy, the Garden State’s pizza scene has been rivaling that of neighboring New York City in recent years. Popular spots include Pete & Elda’s Bar/ Carmen’s Pizzeria in Neptune City, Federico’s Pizza & Restaurant in Belmar, and Fusaro Pizza, with locations in Spring Lake, Manahawkin and Forked River.

For elevated seafood, head to Lobster House in Cape May or the more low-key Crab Shack Seafood Market and Restaurant in Brigantine.

The Cape May-Lewes Ferry – a large passenger and vehicle ferry – gliding over calm water — The Cape May-Lewes Ferry shuttles between the Jersey Shore and Delaware © John M. Chase / Getty Images

Step 5: Plan how to get to the Jersey Shore

Planes, trains and automobiles – and buses and ferries – can all get you to various points on the Jersey Shore. Those flying in will have the most choices at Newark Liberty International Airport, about an hour’s drive to the northmost shore point in Sandy Hook, or about 2½ hours all the way south to Cape May. A select number of American Airlines, Spirit Airlines, and Sun Country flights also service Atlantic City International Airport.

You can reach some shore towns by the New Jersey Transit rail service, or buses from New York City and Philadelphia. Ferry operator Seastreak also runs services to Sandy Hook Beach from New York City in the summer months, as well as year-round to Belford, Highlands, and Atlantic Highlands. On the south end, there’s the Cape May-Lewes Ferry from Delaware.

Driving will give you the most flexibility to hop between beaches and towns, but finding a parking spot on summer weekends – and especially holiday weekends – can take patience.

Step 6: Pack your beach bag

Jersey Shore vacations, especially if you’re staying near the sand, are all about showcasing your beach fashion: swimsuits, towels, sandals or flip-flops and the like, all styled your way. But that white sand is super reflective, so put extra emphasis on sun protection, from sunscreen and sunglasses to cover-ups and wide-brim hats.

If you’re planning on popping into casinos or restaurants, the air-conditioning can be strong, so a light layer is always wise. While summer heat usually sends the bugs away, those pesky critters have been lingering in recent years, so bug repellent may be wise.

Adventure Travel

A guide to Nevada’s unmatched natural experiences

Nevada’s
landscapes are a mosaic of glimmering lakes, rugged mountain ranges, fiery
canyons, and towering dunes. This diversity provides an astonishing array of easy, intermediate
and challenging
activities that you can spend a lifetime enjoying without repeating the same
adventure twice. The best part? Nevada is home to more than 60 million acres of
public land, and
more
than 80 percent of the state is open to recreational activities. Here’s
just a taste.

Explore the largest alpine lake in North America

It’s hard not to be captivated the first time
you lay eyes on Lake Tahoe. With a
surface area of 191 square miles, the water appears as vast as the turquoise
sky. For the best views, rent a kayak from
Sand
Harbor State Park or Zephyr Cove
Resort and head toward the center of the lake where the water is so clear
you can see more than 70 feet below. Afterward, pull into a cove to sun
yourself on the sand or relax on one of Lake Tahoe’s colossal smooth rocks.

Lake Tahoe is just as bewitching in the
winter, when the snow-covered Sierra Nevada casts its reflection across the
lake. The region becomes a wonderland for snowshoeing, snowmobiling, and skiing
at resorts like
Mount
Rose Ski Tahoe or Diamond
Peak Ski Resort. For an unforgettable winter hike, head to
Chickadee
Ridge. Although you’ll often need snowshoes after a fresh dump of powder or
in icy conditions, the snow is often firm enough to trek through the forest in
boots or waterproof shoes. The views of the lake at the summit are
breathtaking, but the real stars of this hike are the mountain chickadees that
frequent the area.

A view of the Calico Hills in the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. Cayce Clifford for Lonely Planet — Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area in the Calico Hills. Cayce Clifford for Lonely Planet

Sink into surreal
scenescapes

Las Vegas is so famous for its neon lights and
entertainment that it’s easy to forget the city is surrounded by dramatic
desertscape. Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area is only a 20-minute drive away,
but this kingdom of rust-red canyons, sandstone bluffs, and ancient petroglyphs
might as well be in another universe. Designated trails are perfect for
mountain bikers who want to get up close and personal with the spectacular
scenery.

Alex Fletcher and Matt Geraci climb in Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area — **Left:** Climbers in Red Rock Canyon. **Right:** The Calico Hills area are a paradise for mountaineers. Cayce Clifford for Lonely Planet (2)

The crags and canyons of the Calico Hills area are a paradise for climbers. — **Left:** Climbers in Red Rock Canyon. **Right:** The Calico Hills area are a paradise for mountaineers. Cayce Clifford for Lonely Planet (2)

The Calico Hills offer some of the park’s most
unique hikes including the Calico Tanks Trail, which winds its way up banded
rock formations to a natural pool. The crags and canyons are a paradise for
climbers: the area contains more than 1,200 named routes of sandstone, basalt,
and limestone – some of which offer the occasional glimpse of the Las Vegas
Strip in the distance.

Red Rock Canyon is also home to a population
of burros. They are understandably shy, but you can sometimes spot them in the
park’s northern section near Cold Creek.

Driving ATVs in the Sand Mountain Recreation Area. Cayce Clifford for Lonely Planet

Listen to the sand
sing

Just outside Fallon, in the northwestern
section of the state, you’ll find
Sand
Mountain Recreation Area. The epic two-mile-long, six-story-high dune is
beloved by ATV riders and off-roaders. It’s also one of only a few singing sand
dunes in the world, and you’ll sometimes hear it whistle, hum, and moan as the
sand tumbles. In the center of it all, you’ll find the Super Bowl, a giant
hollow carved by wind that, incredibly, remains intact no matter how much the
sand around it shifts.

This is the world’s only place to see the rare
Sand
Mountain blue butterfly. The butterflies only live one week, and they never
stray more than a 200-foot radius from the Kearny’s buckwheat that makes up
their food source. Each one is a tiny blue miracle.

Cathedral Gorge State Park is known for its unique geological formations. Cayce Clifford for Lonely Planet

Cathedral Gorge State Park is particularly rewarding at sunrise and sunset. — **Left:** The park is particularly rewarding at sunrise and sunset. **Right:** Remnants of 1930s Civilian Conservation Corps projects, such as this water tower, dot the landscape. Cayce Clifford for Lonely Planet (2)

**Left:** The park is particularly rewarding at sunrise and sunset. **Right:** Remnants of 1930s Civilian Conservation Corps projects, such as this water tower, dot the landscape. Cayce Clifford for Lonely Planet (2)

The park is a popular destination for outdoor enthusiasts seeking a one-of-a-kind natural experience and a chance to marvel at the beauty of the earth's geological wonders. — The park is a popular destination for outdoor enthusiasts seeking a one-of-a-kind natural experience and a chance to marvel at the beauty of the earth’s geological wonders. Cayce Clifford for Lonely Planet

Wander prehistoric
slot canyons

One favorite off-the-beaten-track place in
Nevada is also one of its most awe-inspiring. Cathedral
Gorge State Park was formed by ancient volcanic eruptions forming a fault
that eventually filled with water. Over many millennia, the lake drained,
leaving behind an otherworldly landscape of majestic hoodoos, spires, and slot
canyons.

One of the best hikes in the park is the
Juniper Draw Loop Trail, a 3.6-mile loop that begins at the Cathedral Gorge
State Park campground. The terrain is mostly flat, and the path cuts through
several sandy stretches dotted with juniper and sage and framed by dramatic
rock formations.

Cathedral Gorge State Park is particularly
rewarding at sunrise and sunset. At these hours, the light plays in the slots
and pockets of the canyons, and the creamy peach-colored rocks turn to a fierce
bright orange. To take it all in, head to the Miller Point Overlook—a gazebo
constructed by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 1930s—which offers some
of the best vistas in the park.

Amateur astrophotographer Zach Hamer takes an ultra long exposure photo of the Heart Nebula. In the sky above is a full moon. — Nevada’s vast expanses of desert and remote areas offer minimal light pollution, providing clear and unobstructed views of the stars, planets, and celestial phenomena. Max Dickson / Lonely Planet

Stargaze along the
Extraterrestrial Highway

Nevada’s Extraterrestrial
Highway is equal parts history, beauty, and kitsch. Home to the legendary Area 51
(the once top-secret government facility rumored to hide an alien spaceship),
this area offers everything from UFO-themed bars to a black mailbox
that may or may not serve as a rendezvous point for visitors from outer space.

This region of Nevada is as alluring to
history buffs as it is to UFO enthusiasts since it’s peppered with ghost
towns, old cemeteries, and historic mining communities. Mostly, though,
it’s a lot of gorgeous desert scenery and open roads. When you visit, raise
your gaze to the night sky. You might not see spacecraft, but since there isn’t
any light pollution on this long stretch of highway, the stars burn beautiful
and bright.

Nevada’s public lands belong to the people.
You can help preserve these incredible natural places by carrying reusable
water bottles, keeping to dedicated trails, and packing out what you pack in.
These small acts ensure that Nevada will be just as wild, wonderful, and
welcoming when you’re ready to come back again.

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