The sun set on Monday, November 18, in towns and cities within 23.5º of the North Pole for the last time until 2025. This phenomenon, known as Polar Night, plunges the top of the globe into a nearly perpetual night until January 22, 2025.
While it’s romantic to envision cozy light-filled homes buried in snow under sparkling stars for months on end, this isn’t a completely accurate image. This region in the Arctic Circle experiences something called “civil twilight,” in which the sky will turn varying shades of azure and light purple, allowing people to see more normally for a few hours every day. North America’s northernmost town, Utqiaġvik, Alaska (formerly known as Barrow), experiences civil twilight for roughly 3 hours on the winter solstice and up to 6 hours closer to the first and last day of Polar Night.
But places like Longyearbyen on the Norwegian archipelago of Svalbard, which are even farther north, the civil twilight is much shorter. Not too long ago, Lonely Planet’s Social Media Director, Deepa Lakshmin interviewed Longyearbyen local, Celia Blomdahl about what life was like so far north.
“You’ll see a super cozy city, people drinking coffee all day long and chilling,” Celia told Deepa. She said if you love nighttime, you should go, but be warned – you won’t see much else.
Fairbanks, Alaska is an ideal place to experience the hygge of a polar night and the Northern Lights. Getty Images
Polar Night is a wonderful time to travel to these northern destinations if you want to experience the most intense Northern Lights, particularly this year. Scientists are saying that the level of solar activity is currently the highest it’s been in about 20 years.
But you don’t have to go all the way to the Arctic Circle to experience a mostly dark day and incredible Northern Lights. Slightly lower in latitude and reachable via the Aurora Winter Train, Fairbanks, Alaska, is situated just close enough to the Arctic Circle that you’ll get to enjoy the hygge of a mostly dark day and a strong chance of seeing the Northern Lights.
If it’s your first time in Scotland, you’ll most likely choose to land in Edinburgh and work your way north to the Highlands, maybe over to St Andrews, then perhaps up to otherworldly northern isles like Skye. Southern Scotland literally lives in the Scottish Highlands’ shadow.
But the dramatic sea cliffs, rolling countryside and star-speckled skies this country is known for also reign supreme in the south – not to mention the region’s accessibility to Scotland’s two biggest cities, Glasgow and Edinburgh. If your arrow is pulling you in the opposite direction from most tourists, follow this five-day road trip itinerary exploring the underdog half’s highlights.
Pack your layers (and a guidebook!) before hitting the road. Ann Douglas Lott/Lonely Planet
When to arrive: Fly into Glasgow the night (or day, if you need more time like me) before you want your Scottish adventure to officially begin, giving yourself a jet lag adjustment period depending on where you’re coming from.
How to get into Glasgow from the airport: It takes 20-30 minutes to get into Glasgow from Glasgow Airport. You can board the Glasgow Airport Express at the main terminal – a shuttle (£10.50 per adult) that will take you directly to Buchanan St Station in the city center. There are also taxis waiting outside, which will set you back £30-40.
Getting around: In Glasgow, you can rely on public transportation. If you’re basing yourself in the city center, most major sites are very walkable or bus-friendly. Take the Subway (nicknamed “the Clockwork Orange” due to its color and circular route shape) to get between the center and the West End. For the rest of this trip, your own set of wheels is a must (it is a road trip, after all!). If you are traveling with a group, Rabbie’s organizes fabulous tours, including custom itineraries.
What to pack: Just like onions and ogres, an appropriate outfit in Scotland has layers. Sweaters, a jacket, a warm hat and shoes that work for indoor and outdoor activities are musts. Also, bring sunglasses and sunscreen – yes, even in Scotland! The south typically gets more pleasant weather, especially in the high and shoulder seasons.
A perfect day in Glasgow: Kelvingrove, the Necropolis, tea at Mackintosh at the Willow and more. Left, AC Manley/Shutterstock. Right, Ann Douglas Lott/Lonely Planet
Day 1: Get to know Glasgow
Vibes: Scotland’s biggest, grittiest and most underrated city.
Do: Start your day at Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum and explore its extensive galleries, with works ranging from Rembrandts to Viking-era carved stones. Then take a stroll around the adjacent Kelvingrove Park, wandering over to the University of Glasgow – its Gothic architecture bears a striking resemblance to Hogwarts. Once you’ve finished lunch (see below), head east to Glasgow Cathedral and wander the hilly Necropolis behind it. From the top, you’ll discover fantastic views of the entire city.
Eat: Mackintosh at the Willow is the last remaining tea room in Glasgow designed by Charles Rennie Mackintosh, serving tea to all classes of folks since 1903. You can book a guided tour and visit the museum next door to learn its story before sitting down for afternoon tea with all the trimmings. There are other Willow tea rooms across the city, but you’ll find the original real deal on Sauchiehall St. For dinner, Mharsanta’s modern Scottish menu is a cozy choice.
Stay: Since you’re only here for one day, maximize your time getting from place to place and stay in the city center. The Address just opened in 2024 and is a stylish, ideally located and relatively affordable option.
It’s easy to go castle-crazy in Scotland. Ann Douglas Lott/Lonely Planet
Day 2: Go castle-hopping around Fife
Vibes: Travel back to the height of Scottish clan history.
The drive: This day trip follows a loop that starts and ends in Glasgow (though you could technically wrap up the day in Edinburgh if you prefer). Head out early, as you’ll want to linger at each stop, getting lost in the many rooms and stories (literal and figurative)of every castle. It’s around a 30 to 50-minute drive between stops.
Do: Today’s adventure is not only historic but also cinematic – each stop also features filming locations from popular movies and shows like Outlander, Outlaw King, Monty Python and more. Note that you will need to pay for a ticket at each castle, around £5-10 each.
First, head to Doune Castle, whose exterior you may recognize from that Trojan Rabbit scene in Monty Python and the Holy Grail. Opt into the listening guide, as you’ll gain far more insight as you wander the property. Next, head to the adorable village of Falkland, featured in the opening scene of Outlander and also where you’ll find Falkland Castle, a country residence of the Stuart monarchs.
Grab lunch in Falkland (see below), and continue to Midhope Castle (Outlander fans, you’ll recognize this one). While the structure is not currently stable enough to enter, guests may roam around outside.Exciting plans are also in place to build a distillery on the property.
Get lost in the romantic side streets in the village of Culross. Ann Douglas Lott/Lonely Planet
Next up, Blackness Castle, which for much of its history served as a prison (a posh prison at that – the views from the top are extraordinary). Wrap up the day in Culross, a former royal burgh with peaceful, cobblestone streets, colorful homes with red-tile roofs and romantic passageways to get lost in. Pop into Culross Palace for a tour to keep up the royal theme.
Eat: Stay for lunch in Falkland at Campbell’s House. After a day of driving, snag a reservation at The Gannet for a much-deserved meal of fine Scottish dining.
Stay: Head back to your Glasgow accommodation to rest up before your journey to Loch Lomond tomorrow.
Spend a day exploring Loch Lomond, on and off the water, and then spend a night at the luxurious Cameron House. Left, Juraj Kamenicky/Shutterstock. Right, Ann Douglas Lott/Lonely Planet
Day 3: Frolic around Loch Lomond
Vibes: Glorious nature and freshwater adventures.
The drive: It’s a 45-minute to Loch Lomond from Glasgow’s center, but don’t forget to factor in more time if you’re staying on the northern end of the lake.
Do: Kayak, paddleboard, hike – revel in the lake’s natural beauty! Then look for lake monsters on a boat ride – either a fancy champagne cruise, or take the ferry to Inchmurrin, which has a singular bar and inn.
Eat: Enjoy an Italian lunch while you watch the marina traffic on the water at La Vista at Cameron House. For dinner, head to Clachan Inn, the country’s oldest licensed pub, for classically hearty Scottish dishes.
Stay: Cameron House is peak lakeside luxury, through which you can also book plenty of fabulous experiences, like seaplane excursions, lake cruises, 4×4 adventures and more. Nearby, Duck Bay Hotel is a great mid-range waterfront option. And if you really want to embrace the lake culture, camp shoreside at Sallochy Campsite.
Day 4: Tour Dean Castle and then amble along the coast of Ayrshire. Ann Douglas Lott/Lonely Planet
Day 4: Explore Ayrshire and stargaze in Galloway Forest Park
The drive: Hug the coast of Ayrshire (A77) on this seaside drive. Stop in Troon for lunch (see below), and then head southeast to Dumfries and Galloway.
Do: After a teary farewell to Loch Lomond, drive an hour south to Dean Castle Country Park, which is completely free to enter, including its gorgeous namesake castle. Stretch your legs on one of the marked trails before hitting the road again for one of the most scenic views of the entire trip along A77, where you can look out across the Firth of Clyde. Take a break in Troon, famous among golf lovers and a frequent host of the British Open (most recently in 2024).
Wrap up day four with some epic stargazing at Galloway International Dark Sky Park. Simon Robertson/Getty Images
Continue driving and stop in the seaside village of Dunure, where you can walk to its clifftop medieval castle, stroll the pebbly beach beneath and admire the pretty harbor. After you’ve gotten your fill of sea breezes and sunshine, head to Galloway Forest Park, the first Dark Sky Park in the UK, for some epic stargazing – thousands upon thousands of stars! Better yet, book an excursion with a Freelance Dark Sky Ranger, like Elizabeth Tindal, for further insight on constellations, planets and anything else you might catch whizzing across the night sky.
Eat: In Dunure, grab a bite to eat at Harbourside… and eat it harborside. Or stop at Marine Troon for a superb meal at one of the hotel’s restaurants: The Rabbit or The Seal Bar (the latter is more casual).
Stay: We are in a national forest, so it only seems fitting to go glamping just outside the park at the Dumfries & Galloway Conifer Lodges – hot tub and modern kitchen appliances included.
You’ll want to stop for many adorable photo ops on the drive to Traquair House. Left, Ann Douglas Lott/Lonely Planet. Right, Shutterstock
Day 5: Meander through the Scottish Borders and end in North Berwick
Vibes: Unfurling mountains, stately manors and a peaceful seaside town.
The drive: This is the longest driving stretch of the trip – about 2.5 hours via ultra-scenic A708 – but the destination, Traquair House, is well worth the drive. After that, it’s a little over an hour’s journey to North Berwick.
Do: Drive through the Scottish Borders, with some incredible sightseeing outside your window; if you came to Scotland wanting to see sheep, get ready. Grazing sheep, sleeping sheep, playing sheep, climbing sheep who have scrambled so high up you can hardly make them out – they’re truly everywhere along this stretch, which is often described as one of the most scenic places in Scotland. If you need a driving break, stop off to hike to the dramatic 60-ft Grey Mare’s Tale Waterfall. The full hike is about 3 miles, but the first viewpoint is a short walk from the parking lot.
Spend a couple of hours exploring the grounds of Traquair House, Scotland’s oldest inhabited house. Here, you’ll also find actual items that belonged to Mary Queen of Scots, as well as a Saltburn-esque maze in the backyard. After lunch on the property, hop back into the car for the final leg of your trip to East Lothian in North Berwick. Take a slight detour to Seacliff Beach to watch the sunset before heading to dinner.
Walk Seacliff Beach during golden hour before heading to Marine North Berwick for your final night. Ann Douglas Lott/Lonely Planet
Eat: Have a traditional Scottish breakfast sandwich on a traditional Scottish “bap” (or roll) from The Riverbank, conveniently located a few minutes from the Conifer Lodges. At lunchtime, enjoy a sandwich or soup of the day from the Old Walled Garden Café at Traquair House before embarking on the final leg of your drive. Cap off the day with a fine Italian dinner at The Lawn, the restaurant at Marine North Berwick.
Stay: Table to bed, anyone? Rest your head on your final night at Marine North Berwick, perched on the sea and easily accessible to East Lothian’s 21 golf courses, including the smaller seaside Wee Course in the hotel’s backyard. The rooms are decorated with cozy and nautical details, like velvet beds, woodland-inspired wallpaper and bedside tables resembling beach lockers.
Lush with hardwood forests that turn a rainbow of colors in spring and fall, splashed wildflowers and striped with autumn leaves, Vermont is made for hikers.
Jump in lakes, ponds or waterfalls to cool off, and you’re never far from town at hike’s end. The locavore movement started in Vermont, and the state has more artisan cheesemakers per capita than anywhere else in the US, as well as a vibrant microbrewery and microdistillery scene. In other words, there’s always a tasty reward waiting when you’re out of the woods.
Following the many scenic hiking trails is one of the top things to do in the state. Plan your next outdoors adventure with our pick of the best routes.
The Long Trail gets increasingly rugged as it climbs north toward Mt Mansfield. Shutterstock
1. The Long Trail
Best thru-hike
272 miles (438km), 5–28 days, easy to challenging
The original thru-hike, the Long Trail is the oldest continuous footpath in the United States and the inspiration for the Appalachian Trail. Meandering along the spine of the Green Mountains, through northern hardwood forests and past alpine tundra, over and sometimes through mountain brooks and streams, the trail extends from Massachusetts to Canada.
Complete the end-to-end hike, and you’ll get bragging rights. But most people do day trips, “section hiking” it over years by hitting the trail for the weekend or even just for an afternoon. More than 166 miles of side trails provide access to the Long Trail and its 70 backcountry campsites.
In southern Vermont, the Long Trail and the Appalachian Trail share the same corridor for 100 miles. The trail gets increasingly rugged as it climbs north toward Mt Mansfield and Jay Peak. Some steep inclines in the north have permanent ladders to help hikers scramble up precipitous rock faces.
Every season on the Long Trail has its wonders and its challenges. Carpets of spring flowers can be accompanied by rainy weather and soggy or snowy summits; warmer summer temps can be crowded, humid and buggy. In fall, the weather is once again unpredictable, but the kaleidoscope of autumn leaves is like nothing else you’ll ever witness. Winter on the trail is beautiful and otherworldly but requires the right clothing and navigation skills.
Take in the views of New York’s Adirondacks from 968ft-high Mt Philo. Rob Rudeski/Shutterstock
2. Mount Philo
Best hike for spotting hawks
1.4–1.9 miles (2.25–3km), 1–1.5 hours, moderate
Champlain Valley, home to Lake Champlain, is called Vermont’s breadbasket for its fertile lowland soils and abundant agriculture. The hike up Mt Philo delivers sweeping views of the Valley, as well as Lake Champlain and New York’s million-acre Adirondack Park. Located in Charlotte (pronounced Shar-lot), 968ft Mt Philo stands proud inside Vermont’s 232-acre Mt Philo State Park.
In the 1930s, the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) planted trees and built roads, trails, a campground, ranger quarters, a picnic area and a summit lodge on top of this natural viewpoint.
Some hikers prefer to follow the paved road to the summit. Others seek out stretches of trail along the way. The paved road and the park’s trails both give walkers and hikers access to the park’s hardwood forests, a glimpse of Mt Philo’s mid-mountain cliff band and, of course, a summit to take in the surroundings.
It’s one of the best locations to spot hawks in Vermont, particularly at the end of September. Mt Philo has the state record for the largest number of migrating raptors seen in a single day – 3688. Reserve one of the park’s 10 campsites and drive up the access road, or park at the bottom and pay a fee at the entry gate for day use.
Vermont’s Green Mountains offer panoramic views that are well worth the challenging hike. Getty Images
3. Mount Hunger
Best hike for views of Mt Mansfield
4.2 miles (6.8km), 3 hours, challenging
For views of Mt Mansfield, Vermont’s highest peak, from a vantage point in a different mountain range, hike up 3538ft Mt Hunger. The trailhead is about 45 minutes from Burlington, Vermont’s biggest city, and about 15 minutes from Stowe.
The first mile is mellow, then this out-and-back hike climbs consistently for 2263ft to the top, and though it’s challenging you’ll be rewarded with panoramic views of the Green Mountain State. Along the way, you’ll step up rocky stairs, traverse under mossy waterfalls, splash in a swimming hole and finally top out on Mt Hunger’s rocky summit, with 360-degree views of New Hampshire’s Presidential Range to the east and the spine of the Green Mountains to the north, south and west.
The last mile is the steepest, but hikers agree that the bird’s-eye view of northern New England is well worth the effort.
Break your hike around Grout Pond with a swim, fishing trip or a paddle. Shutterstock
4. Grout Pond Trail
Best hike for recreational opportunities
2.7 miles (4.3 km), 1–1.5 hours, easy
Altitude gain doesn’t define a great hike. Circumnavigate 80-acre Grout Pond, and you only climb 249ft, but you will spot loons, kayakers, wildflowers, mushrooms and mosses while cradled in the heart of the Green Mountains.
Located in the 1600-acre Grout Pond Recreation Area, Grout Pond is an awesome place to take a dip, cast a line or put in for a paddle. The rec area has 10 miles of multiuse, nonmotorized trails that connect to the Somerset Reservoir trail system, which in winter is home to Vermont’s end-to-end ski trail, the Catamount. The low-lying trails can be wet, so there are boardwalks in sections. There’s also camping, canoeing, kayaking and fishing if you want to mix it up.
Hike over the open rocks of Sunset Ridge on your way up to Mt Mansfield. Andy Shih/Shutterstock
5. Mount Mansfield via Sunset Ridge
Best hike for altitude
5.9 miles (9.5km), 3.5 hours, challenging
If you come to Vermont to hike, don’t leave until you’ve conquered Mt Mansfield. At 4395ft, Vermont’s highest peak stands sentry over Stowe to the east and Underhill to the west. It’s one of three rocky mountaintops in Vermont where Ice Age alpine tundra still survives.
Legend holds that it was named for its profile, which looks like the forehead, nose, lips, chin and Adam’s apple of a man in repose; the chin is the peak’s summit. There’s also a legend of a mythological deer/wild boar monster that roams Mansfield’s flanks in one direction only. The Wampahoofus is said to have short legs on one side and long ones on the other from traveling through Mansfield’s steep terrain.
There are numerous routes to Mt Mansfield’s summit. Set out from Underhill and hike the open rock ramp called Sunset Ridge, or one of the more challenging trails that parallel it, for the inspiring views. Athletes looking for a challenge should tackle Hell Brook from the Smuggler’s Notch side. The most mellow approach is to drive up the 4.5-mile hairpin-turn Toll Road near the mountain’s “forehead” and traverse to its “chin” (or as far as legs, weather and ambition allow).
Glaciers carved the slash of Lake Willoughby and pushed up peaks on either side. Denis Tangney Jr/Getty Images
6. South Trail, Mount Pisgah
Best hike for mountain lakes and nesting falcons
4.1 miles (6.6 km), 2.75 hours, moderate
In Vermont’s Northeast Kingdom, Lake Willoughby is one of Vermont’s coldest and deepest bodies of water. Glaciers carved the slash of a lake and pushed up peaks on either side. Mt Pisgah forms the east side of Willoughby Gap, and its sister peak, Mt Hor, towers over the lake’s west side.
Start on the South Trail, and you’ll hike for a mile to Pulpit Rock, a peregrine-falcon nesting area and one of the mountain’s best panoramas of Lake Willoughby. Hikers who just want a view sometimes turn around here, while others take the side trail to a rocky perch that feels like it overhangs the lake from 650ft above.
Continue on, and it’s a moderate-to-challenging dirt path to the summit ridge and more views of northern Vermont and southern Canada as the ridge veers eastward away from the lake.
7. Mount Abe from Lincoln Gap
Best hike for far-ranging panoramas
5.1 miles (8.2km), 4 hours, challenging
Mt Abraham, dubbed “Mt Abe” by locals, may have been named for former President Abraham Lincoln, but it also may have been named after Revolutionary War hero Benjamin Lincoln, like neighboring Lincoln Peak. Located in Lincoln, Vermont, the peak has also been dubbed Potato Hill and Lincoln Mountain, as well as Mt Abraham Lincoln Mountain.
Whatever you want to call it, the 4006ft peak is Vermont’s fifth-highest, and the approach to its alpine-tundra-dotted summit ridge is stunning, challenging and breathtakingly beautiful. The most popular trail to the summit follows Vermont’s Long Trail from the summit of Lincoln Gap.
The trail traverses along a rocky path until it hits a lean-to-style shelter with a picnic table and a privy. Then it’s a stout scramble to the summit and one of the best panoramas on the Long Trail. On a clear day, hikers can see New York’s highest peak, Mt Marcy to the west, the slopes of Killington Resort to the south, and 80 miles to the east Mt Washington dominates the skyline of New Hampshire’s Presidential Range.
Rhode Island is America’s smallest state, but it’s got plenty to offer for a great summer vacation. Here you’ll find great food, fun wineries, rich history and spectacular beaches, making it a top getaway destination not just in New England, but up and down the eastern coastline. Whether you’re a history buff, a nature lover, or simply seeking relaxation by the sea, this charming state will make you glad you came.
Summer in Rhode Island is all about embracing the outdoors. The state’s pristine beaches offer sun-soaked days of swimming, surfing, and sun-bathing. Don’t miss a visit to Newport, where you can stroll along the Cliff Walk and tour the opulent Gilded Age mansions like the Breakers. These are some of America’s most impressive mansions, legacies of railway tycoons and industrial moguls who came to Newport only in the summer, sometimes just for a week or two, yet who built mansions so decadent they’ve been used in movie adaptations of The Great Gatsby by F. Scott Fitzgerald.
There’s so much here that it’s impossible to fit into a few short paragraphs, so get out the calendar and start planning the trip. Here’s some suggestions on what to see and do.
Vibes: It’s hard to beat Newport in the summer – its influx of visitors means there’s plenty of things to do while you’re here. Yes, it’s touristy, but it’s a classy crowd and it’s impossible to argue with the city’s quiet coastal charm. With the Newport mansions and the Newport Jazz Festival (held each year in August), there’s an artsyness and stately vibe that resonates beyond the beaches, bars and sunbathers.
Do: Visit the Cliff Walk, see the Breakers or the Marble House mansions, and gawk (or gag) at how luxurious, opulent, and excessive the upper 1% lived. Those who surf will want to wax up the boards and head out on some great swell.
Eat: Flo’s Clam Shack is a great spot that’s only a few minutes’ drive or a short walk away. It’s been in business since the 1930s and has cheap seafood that’s great for anyone craving a bite after a day on the beach.
Sleep: Surfers will want to check out Second Beach Family Campground. Yes, you’ll need to keep things family friendly (voices down, no drunkenness or substance abuse), but you can get up when the tide is right and literally walk to the beach.
Dig deeper with a trip to Block Island: the perfect place for a New England beach getaway
South Shore Beach
Vibes: This delightful stretch of sand offers peace and quiet, a sharp contrast to frenetic Newport and its more popular beaches. The vibe here is chill and unpretentious: mostly families with kids, couples and college-aged sunbathers who stake out spots and enjoy the white-sand, pebbles, shells and the occasional crab or skate egg case.
Do: For those non-beach-goers who enjoy boutique shopping and gourmet dining, Little Compton’s quaint village center is a good option. Browse unique shops featuring local crafts and artisan goods, then grab a bite at fresh, farm-to-table cuisine at cozy eateries.
Eat: You’ll be hard-pressed to find a better spot to grab a bite than The Barn, right in the center of nearby Adamsville, though it’s going to be crazy busy just about any time you arrive and they don’t take reservations. So just come and plan on doing the crossword or Wordle as you wait.
Sleep: Stone House Inn is a great option for those who like a grand ol’ inn, a great view and hospitable innkeepers. The building was built in the 19th century, but has been completely renovated and modernized. The wide wrap-around porches are perfect for relaxing on.
Find your favorite stretch of sand with The 6 best beaches in Rhode Island
East Beach
Vibes: This beach will probably not be for everyone, because among other things, 4×4 access is allowed at certain times of year; this activity is constrained by important nesting bird species, so 4×4 owners need to pay particular attention to the rules to avoid threatening endangered species. But because you can bring a vehicle, it’s a perfect for those who like fishing or who want to bring heavier items like kayaks. There’s great access to Ninigret Pond, a vast marine estuary that’s part of protected Ninigret National Wildlife Refuge. So paradoxically, one of the beaches most drivable is also next to a pristine protected area that’s excellent for birding and wildlife viewing.
Do: Bring a kayak, canoe or SUP and explore the estuary, where you’ll find all kinds of cool critters and birds.
Eat: The Haversham, an easy five minute drive away, is a good spot to grab a beer after a bit of fishing or recreational boating, and it’s a popular watering hole for locals and tourists alike.
Sleep: Villa Bed & Breakfast is a real deal, with quaint, nicely furnished rooms, an immaculately tended lawn brimming with flowers and great access to not just the town, but the marsh as well.
You’ll generally find decent grocery stores and a variety of mostly mid-range, American-style restaurants in the area, with the big exceptions being Newport and Providence. If you’re willing to hop in the car and head into the city, you’ll have your pick of spectacular fine dining, great Italian or other international and fusion options – but for the beach, you’ll need to content yourself with burgers, fries, fish & chips, a steak, a salad…there’s not much variety beyond typical small town New England fare. Most of the area’s fancier restaurants will accept reservations, but the beachside bars and gastropubs probably will have a line. The White Horse Tavern in Newport – housed in a building built in the 1600s – is a treat for history buffs and gourmands alike. Those wanting refinement might want to reserve a spot at the Castle Hill Inn, a resort overlooking the water with several restaurants to choose from. All of them are fancy, so you might consider dressing up.
If you’re a seafood lover, you’re in the right place. Thick and creamy New England clam chowder is a popular choice, and it sticks to the ribs after a long day at the beach. Lobster is (for anyone who grew up here!) outlandishly expensive these days (what seafood isn’t?), but it’s as popular as ever and makes for a great summer splurge. Farm Stands tend to open in June and close sometime after September, but can be a good place to find fresher produce and – in season – local corn. Those who want to can check beach regulations, get permits and have a cookout. And those with a sweet tooth might want to try Indian Pudding, a cornmeal-and-molasses treat that has its origins in the Indigenous cultures here.
Book your accommodations
Rhode Island is pretty packed in the summer, so the sooner you can make your reservations the better. You won’t find the range of budget accommodations during this time either, especially if you want to be close to the beach (and let’s be honest, the beach is why you’re coming). Some establishments will have a two (or more) day minimum stay. All that to say: if you’ll be here in late June, July, or August, book early and expect to pay more than you’d like. If you’re not a beach-goer though – or you want to come in the shoulder seasons of May and September – you’ll find that prices drop, availability increases. While some places may close the moment Labor Day arrives in early September, there’s usually some good deals to be had.
If you’re looking for spontaneity, your best bet is to try AirBnB or VRBO, which will have a wide variety of options and price points. If you’re planning to camp, you’ll (again) want to book as early as possible, as sites fill quickly.
If you’re coming to Rhode Island from far away, it’s a must to stop in and be awed by the grandeur and excess of these “summer homes.” The most famous is the Breakers, constructed in the early 1890s over a span of two years. It’s a National Historic Landmark and was initially owned by the Vanderbilt family, but its creator, Charles Vanderbilt II, only had four years to spend in it before he passed away at age 55.
Have an old fashioned clam bake
You can do this in a large pot for a small family or go whole hog and dig a pit like the local Indigenous people did. First, get lobsters, clams, mussels, corn, potatoes, a bunch of hot rocks and fresh rockweed (the green stuff that looks like clown hair). Heat the rocks in a fire and put them into the pit, then layer them with seaweed. Add the veggies and shellfish, top with another layer of seaweed, and then with dirt. Let it bake for a good afternoon, 3-4 hours or more if there’s a lot of people. Then dig up the salt-steamed food and enjoy!
Go surfing at Second Beach
Some of New England’s best surfing breaks are here in this tiny state, and top of the list is Second Beach, which pops whenever there’s a decent south-eastern swell. It’s beginner-friendly in that there’s no reefs to wipe-out on, but it’s a crowded break nearly all summer long, so it’s important to have a good understanding of the Surfer’s Code.
Go birdwatching
The marshes, estuaries and sandy shores make for great birding, and one of the rare species you’ll see is the Piping Plover. These impressive shorebirds fly thousands of miles to nest here and will drop perfectly camouflaged eggs that are easy to step on – or drive over. For this reason, you’ll see sections of beaches roped off during nesting season. Please respect these areas, as the birds are endangered and federally protected. They’re also adorable: when the eggs hatch, the tiny marshmallow-sized balls of fluff that emerge tear around on their own within hours. And if you see a bird fluttering helplessly near you with what looks like a “broken wing,” guess what? You’re near a nest and it’s trying to lure you away. DON’T stay there – follow the bird, as people have accidentally stepped on nests while looking for them because they’re that hard to see.
How will you get there?
The closest international airport is TF Green, in Warwick, south of Providence. From there, to reach the shorelines you’ll need a vehicle. Either rent one from the many agencies there at the airport, use a rideshare service or take a train – the latter does run to Newport, but it’s a long trip via Providence, about 2 hours versus the 40 or so minutes by car. You’ll find a vehicle will be necessary to get to some of the other beaches. Parking, however, is often a hassle, requiring parking permits or daily passes. Plan on spending $25 (day) to several hundred dollars (monthly) if you’re not a resident.
What to pack
It’s easy to want to grab a quick bite somewhere on your way back from the beach, but the “No Shirt, No Shoes, No Service” signs are everywhere, so have that at a minimum if you want to eat before you get home. Bring a coverup, sandals, and – for the pricier places – even a sport coat or dress if you want to impress. Off the beach you’ll see the gamut, from casual t-shirts and shorts all the way to the occasional business suit. Though it’s not a tropical latitude, Rhode Island can get a lot of sun during a day, so bring sunscreen, apply it frequently and consider covering up with a wide-brimmed hat and sunglasses. Weather is famously changeable here, so you’d be wise to always bring a layer or two to put on if it gets chilly. And for evenings out on the beach, insect repellent is a must. For kiddos, even for adults, it doesn’t hurt to have water shoes, especially if you’ll plan on exploring the marshes, where shells and sharp grasses can cut tender feet.
On a gloriously sunny day in May last year, thousands of royal fans poured into Windsor to celebrate the wedding of Prince Harry and Meghan Markle. As the couple mark their one-year anniversary this weekend, here’s how you can walk in the footsteps of the monarchy and revel in the pomp, pageantry and architectural splendour of their historic royal wedding venues.
Windsor Castle, the site of two royal weddings in 2017
The world’s largest and oldest continuously occupied castle played host to two royal weddings last year: as well as Harry and Meghan, Princess Eugenie and Jack Brooksbank tied the knot here in October. Both ceremonies took place in St George’s Chapel, a striking example of Gothic architecture that dates back to 1475. This is also where Prince Charles and Camilla Parker Bowles held a prayer service to commemorate their civil wedding in 2005, and it is the final resting place of King Henry VIII and Jane Seymour.
Windsor is accessible by train — the journey from London Waterloo to Windsor & Eton Riverside takes just under an hour, and the castle is a short walk from the station. To save yourself time and money, buy your train ticket online (starting from £11 return). You can book your tickets for Windsor Castle in advance, too (adults £22.50). The castle is open every day — from 10am-5pm during the summer — and it tends to be quieter after midday, giving you more space to explore the 11th-century castle, chapel and state apartments.
Frogmore House, a scenic setting for Harry and Meghan’s engagement portraits
Harry and Meghan chose to have their evening wedding reception at Frogmore House, which was also the site of their glamorous engagement portraits. The couple recently moved to Frogmore Cottage, their new home on the grounds of the estate, with baby Archie, and while their private residence is closed to the public, visitors are welcome to peruse the 35-acre gardens and 17th century house — a frequent royal retreat just 10 mins’ drive from Windsor — for three days a year. But move fast: this year’s open days are May 28-30, with proceeds donated to the National Garden Scheme, British Heart Foundation and the National Rheumatoid Arthritis Society (from £7). Groups of 15 or more can also book tours during the month of August.
Westminster Abbey, the most storied royal wedding venue
In 2011, Prince William and Kate Middleton took their vows in this immense Gothic church in front of 2200 guests and a television audience of nearly 2 billion people worldwide. You can see their marriage licence, and much more, in the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee Galleries. William and Kate were the latest in a long line of royal couples to marry here — 16 in total, including the flashy ’80s nuptials of Prince Andrew and Sarah Ferguson, the lavish union of Princess Margaret and Antony Armstrong-Jones, and the more traditional ceremonies of Queen and Prince Philip, and the Queen Mother and King George.
Westminster Abbey has also been the setting for every coronation since 1066 and the burial place of more than 3000 royals, statesmen, soldiers and poets. With all that rich history — not to mention a new iPad-designed stained glass window by David Hockney — it’s no surprise that the Abbey is one of London’s most popular attractions, drawing 1.5m visitors annually. It can be easily reached by bus, rail or Tube, and is open Monday to Saturday; but you can skip the queues by booking online (adults £21) and taking advantage of the late opening on Wednesdays (from 4.30-6pm).
St Paul’s Cathedral, host of the ‘wedding of 20th century’
The 1981 union of Prince Charles and Diana Spencer was billed as the wedding of the century, and so great was the interest in the couple that their ceremony had to be held in a venue even larger than the colossal Westminster Abbey. St Paul’s Cathedral, which can accommodate 3500 guests, was the site where Diana emerged from her carriage with that unforgettable 25-foot train.
You can enjoy the spectacular dome of Christopher Wren’s architectural masterpiece — the fourth cathedral to have stood on the site in its 1400-year history — from Monday to Saturday (on Sundays, it is only open for worship), and it is served by multiple public transport routes. Save money by booking online (adults £17) and make the most of the unusually early 8.30am opening to beat the crowds and experience the full effect of the cathedral’s famous acoustics.
St James’s Palace, where Queen Victoria popularised the white wedding dress
Royal protocol dictated that no man could propose to a reigning monarch, so Queen Victoria proposed to her great love Prince Albert, and in 1840, the two married at the Chapel Royal in St James’s Palace. And while we may consider Kate and Meghan the most powerful fashion influencers, it was the 20-year-old Victoria who popularised the tradition of brides wearing white after her own delicate lace gown. St James’s Palace was the established royal residence for 300 years, until Queen Victoria ascended the throne and moved to Buckingham Palace. The Queen’s Guard, however, remained at St James’s Palace, and today it is one of the locations where you can see the Changing of the Guard (head to St James’s Palace for 10am to watch the soldiers begin their march). The palace is now the home of Princesses Anne and Beatrice, while Clarence House, the official London base of Prince Charles and Camilla, is next door. Built in 1531 by Henry VII in red-brick Tudor style, it was also the venue for Prince George’s christening in 2013. St James’s Palace is not open to the public, but visitors can check out the Chapel Royal by attending one of the weekly services, which take place every Sunday morning at 8.30am and 11.15am, except during August and September.
With its unique Hindu culture, dramatic tropical landscapes and long tradition of delightful hospitality, Bali is one of the most exciting places for activities on the planet.
Whether you like to surf, practice yoga, trek on volcanoes, dive pristine reefs or go white-water rafting, Bali offers all sorts of dynamic and fascinating experiences. On the “island of the gods,” you’ll find an opportunity for relaxation and pampering, too – it’s not all about adventure and adrenaline.
To get you started, here’s our pick of the best things to do on a trip to Bali.
1. Grab a surfboard and catch the Bali pipeline
Bali is celebrated as one of the top spots for surfing on the planet. While the island is legendary for world-class waves such as Uluwatu, Padang Padang (“the Balinese Pipeline”) and the aptly named Impossibles, countless other spots are perfect for intermediate surfers or beginners.
Canggu and Kuta Beach are the best hubs on the island for novice surfers. Canggu has plenty of board rental stands and surf schools offering lessons; check out Echo Beach for relatively mellow waves where you can find your feet. More board rental places and surf schools can be found along Kuta Beach, and the waves here are – under normal circumstances – even more chilled for learning.
However, a lot of beginners find out the hard way that high tide at Kuta brings steep, heavy shore-breakers that are often challenging even for experienced surfers. Aim to have your lessons close to low tide and save the tougher waves for later in your surfing career.
If you’d rather escape the crowds, Medewi in West Bali is one of Bali’s least-known spots for good waves. The point itself is covered in boulders, so it’s best for intermediate or experienced surfers, but you’ll find 10km (6.2mi) of sandy-bottom beach breaks on either side of Medewi that rarely see another surfer.
2. Raft the white waters of the Ayung Valley
Jungle rivers cascade down from the volcanic highlands in the center of Bali, carving great ravines that are one of the most unexpected features of Bali’s geography. The southern hills are quite densely populated with these rivers, and rafting is often the best way to experience still-unspoiled jungle canyons.
Bali’s rivers may not offer the world’s most challenging rapids, but what you lose in adrenaline, you gain in the sheer pleasure of seeing the Ubud area from a totally unexpected angle. It’s hard to believe that such pristine forest valleys can exist just a stone’s throw from bustling Ubud town.
Mason Adventures is one of the most reputable rafting companies and runs the longest rafting trips along the Ayung Valley, clocking in at 12km (7.5mi). You can combine an Ayung Valley rafting trip with a 30km (18.5mi) mountain bike tour that runs almost entirely downhill.
3. Go on “safari” in Bali’s wild west
It’s different in West Bali. Away from the crowds, you can watch in awe as critically endangered Bali starlings flit overhead while wild ebony leaf monkeys loop through the canopy and giant monitor lizards flick their tongues to taste the air. Herds of Menjangan (deer) even come right up to the beach bungalows – they’re famous for coming to cool their heels in the shallows.
You can only visit West Bali National Park with a guide, but even if you’re traveling independently outside the reserve, it’s impossible to shake the impression that West Bali has something fundamentally wild about it. To catch the mood, try trekking in the surprisingly arid hills of the cactus country or along the vineyard-filled north coast, or watch macaques run free at the many temples in the area.
Just east of the national park boundary, The Menjangan is an unexpectedly “wild” resort. Even if you’re not staying here, you can rent cycles and book guided walks and horse-riding and birdwatching tours.
Rafting Bali’s jungle rivers offers a taste of wilderness close to Ubud. Fadil Aziz/Getty Images
4. Align your chakras and live the yogi dream
Yoga has been practiced on the Hindu island of Bali for over 1000 years, but the boom years for commercial yoga began in the early years of this century. Ubud in particular has made a name for itself as Southeast Asia’s yoga capital.
The Yoga Barn, which began with one humble yoga shala (practice space) in 2007, has grown to become a fixture on the Ubud scene, with seven studios running a whopping 130 classes a week. There’s a restaurant, a cafe, a yoga store and even accommodations for students who come here for teacher training or specialist courses.
More low-key, offering only 60 classes a week, Radiantly Alive has become a firm favorite with local yogis. It’s located on a quiet alleyway in the old town and is popular with students who enjoy a more intimate, communal atmosphere. Radiantly Alive also has a yoga studio in Canggu.
5. Dive Bali’s tropical waters surrounded by splendor
Lying at the center of the Coral Triangle, Indonesia boasts some of the richest marine habitats on the planet, and Bali has its share of top diving and snorkeling spots. The entire north coast, which is spared the waves of the south, is a watery wonderland for diving and snorkeling aficionados. The island of Nusa Lembongan is a good place to start; Bali Hai runs diving day trips to “Manta Alley” and other local sites, as well as full PADI certification courses.
Menjangan Island off Bali’s northwest tip also offers world-class diving without the crowds. You’ll see the entire spectrum of reef fish alongside turtles, reef sharks and, if you’re lucky, dolphins and whale sharks. Note: The Menjangan also rents kayaks and can arrange guided diving and snorkeling trips to the island.
Snorkel a beautiful undersea world at Pemuteran, Bali. Dudarev Mikhail/Shutterstock
6. Chill out at a private Bali beach club
Bali is famed for its beaches, and the island has a surprising number of often deserted strands alongside busy “town beaches” such as Kuta, Seminyak and Canggu. If you tire of the crowded sand, a day at a private beach club can be an unforgettable experience.
Potato Head in Seminyak has become a Balinese icon. Much more than just a beach club, this lively spot has two infinity pools, a music venue and several landmark restaurants, including Ijen, Bali’s first zero-waste restaurant. Along the beach from Potato Head, Mrs Sippy boasts Bali’s biggest saltwater pool and brands itself as a Mediterranean-inspired oasis.
Over at Canggu, Finns Beach Club has become a Bali institution, with five bars (including two sunken pool bars), three restaurants and a live music space, all spread across a beautifully designed property between two pools and the ocean.
If you’re in Sanur, check out Byrdhouse Beach Club, a vibrant extension to the lovely Segara Village Hotel, run by the same local family since the 1950s. Byrdhouse features a 25m-long infinity pool, spacious beachfront lawns, quality dining spaces and what is probably the best Jacuzzi cocktail bar you’ll ever find.
7. Pamper yourself in a holistic Bali spa
Whether you choose to bliss out with an après-surf massage on the beach or have a marathon all-day pampering session in a five-star spa, Bali takes vacation relaxation to the next level. Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan and Fivelements Retreat near Ubud are open to non-guests and rank among the best spa and wellness retreats I’ve been to.
The Sacred River Spa at the Four Seasons has it all: spa treatments, traditional healers and chakra ceremonies in spellbinding surroundings overlooking the Ayung Valley. Fivelements specializes in holistic treatments inspired by Balinese traditions, with a focus on plant-based cuisine, sacred arts and romantic day experiences that are perfect for couples. Both spots also offer yoga and other wellness packages.
Glo is also highly recommended for its massages and beauty treatments, which attract plenty of repeat visitors. If you’re traveling on a budget, head to one of the Yes Spa Bali establishments in Kuta or Legian, where you can enjoy excellent traditional Balinese massages for less than US$8.
Indulge in some five-star luxury at one of Bali’s world-class spas. Shutterstock
8. Walk with pink buffaloes on a paddy field tour
Water buffalo have become increasingly rare in Bali since mechanized farm tools took the place of plows, but you can still spot a few of Bali’s rare pink buffalo hard at work in the fields, particularly in West Bali. Join a half-day guided paddy walk with pink buffaloes near Pekutatan for fascinating insights into the role that these magnificent creatures play in the rice-growing cycle, and the complex rituals behind rice farming on the island.
9. Climb up Batur volcano at sunrise
The 1717m (5633ft) summit of the Batur volcano is perhaps the best place to take in the sunrise on an island that Indian statesman Jawaharlal Nehru called the “morning of the world.” From the crater rim, the view takes in Mt. Agung – the island’s highest peak and the spiritual abode of the gods in Balinese culture – and Mt. Rinjani on distant Lombok.
You’ll have to set your alarm incredibly early to witness the splendor. Most tours start with a hotel pickup between 1am and 2am so hikers can complete the 3.5km (2.2mi) trek and be up at the summit by sunrise.
Set your alarm and pray for clear skies for your Batur sunrise trek. Matt Munro for Lonely Planet
10. Photograph Asia’s most colorful traditional fishing fleet
The fleet of selerek (traditional Balinese fishing boats) at Perancak inlet are one of the most astounding – and least known – sights on the entire island. These vibrantly colorful longboats, with curiously decorated crow’s nests (many shaped like chariots) and longtail engines spiking out from their hulls, will astound any visitor who takes the trouble to reach this unspoiled corner of West Bali.
11. Stroll across the emerald expanses of Jatiluwih Paddies
Lying just 15km (9.3mi) north of Ubud, the pretty rice terraces of Tegallalang are a prime tourist destination. But with each passing year, more development comes to Tegallalang, and at sunset especially, it’s hard to soak up the beauty of the valley with all the noise from honking tour buses.
For a better introduction to the great paddy landscapes that cover less-visited parts of Bali, head for the immense Jatiluwih terraces, around 40km (25 miles) northwest. This idyllic stretch of countryside is perfect for wandering alone, but consider hiring a local guide if you want to understand the intricacies of the 1000-year-old subak (irrigation) system, which is inscribed on UNESCO’s cultural heritage list.
Bali’s rice terraces are magnificent expanses of green. Pete Seaward for Lonely Planet
Situated on the Gulf of Naples, on the western coast of southern Italy, Naples’ history, culture, and cuisine are forever tied to the Mediterranean Sea.
Sailors from the Greek island of Rhodes were the first to establish a small commercial port here in the first millennium BCE, founding the city of Parthenope, renamed Neápolis in the sixth century BCE. Despite the city stretching along the Mediterranean, it is not typically considered a beach destination. However, there are plenty of places to enjoy a lovely day by the water in Naples, whether you’re looking for a great swim or somewhere that’s perfect for families with young children to splash about.
Here are our picks of the best beaches in Naples, Italy.
1. Spiaggia della Gaiola
Best for snorkeling in a marine park
Spiaggia Della Gaiola, or Gaiola Beach, is one of the most beautiful beaches in Naples. Popular with locals during the summer months, entry is always free, and you’ll want to arrive early to beat the crowds. Located along the Posillipo coast, on the northwestern edge of the Bay of Naples, the beach belongs to the Parco Sommerso Della Gaiola, a protected national marine park. Thanks to a ban on motorboats and fishing, the Mediterranean Sea is wonderfully clear and calm here, making it an ideal beach for snorkeling. Swim out to the two tiny, rocky islands in the near distance or snorkel the submerged ruins of a Roman-era villa. Bring a dive mask or swim goggles: plenty of colorful fish call this crystal blue corner of the Baby of Naples home.
Planning tip: The park is divided into two zones. Zone A is a protected nature preserve; Zone B is limited to 100 visitors a day.
The calm waters near Palazzo Donn’Anna are perfect for families with young swimmers. Getty Images
2. Bagno Elena
Best for families with young children
The private beach Bagno Elena boasts a splendid location in the Bay of Naples, adjacent to the 17th-century palace Palazzo Donn’Anna in Posillipo. Bathers have been catching rays and swimming the deep blue Mediterranean Sea here since it opened in 1840. Legend has it that Oscar Wilde once enjoyed whiling away summer days at the elegant Bagno Elena. The beach is divided into three main areas: the central pier is dotted with comfortable sunbeds for lounging under the Mezzogiorno sunshine, while the two side beaches are ideal for families thanks to shallow calm waters, plus plentiful umbrellas and sunbeds.
Planning tip: Enjoy an espresso at the beach bar or a lunch featuring regional seafood specialties at Il Ristorante, located on the pier.
3. Bagno Sirena
Best for dining at a beachside restaurant
Steps away from Bagno Elena, on the other side of Palazzo Donn’Anna, Bagno Sirena is a smaller beach where you can relax on comfortable sunbeds and swim in the crystal clear sea minus the maddening crowds. Both Bagno Elena and Bagno Sirena boast incredible views of Mt Vesuvius in the distance. The main draw is the beachside restaurant, where you can enjoy top-notch Neapolitan cuisine: try the house speciality, impepate di cozze, fresh mussels prepared with tomatoes and white wine.
La Rotonda Diaz, or Mappatella Beach, is popular with locals. Maria Francesca Moccia/Shutterstock
4. La Rotonda Diaz
Best for a quick city dip
La Rotonda Diaz, also known as Mappatella Beach, on the city’s downtown lungomare (waterfront) is the most centrally located stretch of sand in Naples. Since it’s so close to Naples’ bustling port, the sand isn’t always sparkling, and the sea isn’t so clear due to the many passing ships. That said, it’s the perfect beach if you are looking to catch a couple of hours of sunshine, take a quick swim to cool off from the summer heat, or enjoy a cold beer while you dip your toes in the sea.
5. Rocce Verdi
Best for diving into saltwater pools
When the sun shines on the submerged rocks at this stunning beach along the Posillipo coast, on the northwestern edge of the Bay of Naples, they take on a green hue, hence this beloved beach’s name, Green Rocks. Though you’ll have to pay an entry fee, Rocce Verdi has a lot of perks. Catch some rays on a comfortable sunbed situated on the rocky coast, or head to the top of the beach’s anterior cliff, where you can dive into one of the two large saltwater pools overlooking the bay. In the distance, you can see the island of Capri and the entire Sorrento peninsula. Kayak rentals are available for paddling the tranquil bay, and the beach also hosts wellness activities, including daily yoga and pilates during the summer months.
Planning tip: Enjoy a cocktail or lunch at the restaurant, also located on the upper edge of the rocky beach.
Enjoy views of Mt Vesuvius from cliffs and bays around Naples. Antonio Busiello/Getty Images
6. Scoglione in Marechiaro
Best for a perfect peaceful swim
The Scaglione di Marechiaro (Marechiaro Cliffs) isn’t a full-service beach, but it’s one of the best spots to swim in the sea in Naples. The volcanic rock beach, located just off the coast in the Posillipo neighborhood, can only be reached by boat, with boats departing round the clock from the Marechiaro Port. Significantly less crowded than other nearby famous beaches, this is a beach for swimmers that crave crystalline waters. A stand rents sunbeds, which can be set up along the rocky cliff – enchanting views await.
Lonely Planet destination editor, James Pham, recently traveled to Phu Quoc, an island off Vietnam’s southern coast. Here, he shares some tips and insights for anyone planning a similar trip.
Looking to escape the scorching Saigon heat, I booked a one-hour flight to the island of Phu Quoc. Located in the Gulf of Thailand, Vietnam’s largest island has really taken off as a premier beach destination in the last decade or so, thanks to its 150km (93 miles) of coastline, visa waiver for all nationalities and a plethora of tourist attractions.
While most of the hotels are around the main town of Duong Dong, I wanted to stay on the southern tip of the island, a jumping-off point to the smaller islands. I also wanted to check out the newly developed Sunset Town, intriguingly inspired by Italy’s Amalfi Coast. Having vacationed on the actual Amalfi Coast just a few months prior, I have to admit that I wanted to hate the concept (c’mon, a slice of Italy reproduced in tropical Vietnam?) but I found myself super surprised at the authentic vibe. It was easy to suspend belief walking along the cobblestone streets amongst pastel-colored houses with their terracotta tile roofs and blooming bougainvillea.
I spent a few days at La Festa Phu Quoc, Southeast Asia’s first addition to the Curio Collection by Hilton. Taking a page straight from the Med, the property was nothing short of surreal with its soaring clock tower, arched ceilings and sparkling infinity pool overlooking the ocean below. I also loved that there were so many entertainment options nearby, including the cable car to Hon Thom Island as well as the harbor where boats departed for island-hopping tours.
Leaving pseudo-Europe behind, I traded in one surreal experience for another at the JW Marriott Phu Quoc Emerald Bay Resort & Spa. Designed by acclaimed architect Bill Bensley, the design-forward resort has its own unique origin story – a fictional 19th-century university where each building is themed after a different academic department (think a lobby with vintage bookcases modeled after a dean’s library, and a bar with a chemistry lab vibe, all wrapped in art deco aesthetics). It’s nirvana for design aficionados (and the Insta-crowd), a visual feast literally everywhere you look. But equally stunning is its location, tucked on the very end of Kem Beach, widely considered the island’s most beautiful, with powdery fine sand, swaying palms and crystalline water.
While I’d been on snorkeling trips to a few of Phu Quoc’s nearly two dozen islands, I’d yet to take the cable car over to Hon Thom (Pineapple Island). Recognized by Guinness World Records as the world’s longest non-stop three-rope cable car, the nearly 8km (5-mile) trip offers spectacular views, passing over fleets of fishing boats, forested islands and a beautiful expanse of electric blue water.
At the end of the nearly 20-minute scenic ride is Sun World Hon Thom, an amusement park with 20 water slides, a heart-pounding wooden roller coaster, beach area, observation deck and more. I was also excited to try another new experience: sea walking amidst the colorful coral and schools of fish in the waters that are part of a UNESCO-listed biosphere reserve. Best of all, a family-friendly day here is super affordable at just 1,000,000d ($39) for adults and $26 for kids for the cable car ride, park entrance and buffet lunch.
I wasn’t expecting to have so many options for things to do at night. In the past, going out meant an expensive taxi ride to the main town. But right in Sunset Town, there was a daily Jet Ski and flyboard show as well as free water puppet shows by the beach.
Something else that floored me was the world-class production values of Kiss of the Sea, a wonderfully bizarre multisensory spectacle that’s a mix of dazzling pyrotechnics, Cirque du Soleil–style acrobatics, and sound and lights projected against curtains of falling water in a futuristic venue right over the sea. The show concluded with a thrilling fireworks display (also viewable from the town), after which we made our way over to the lively night market with its budget-friendly street food stalls and free street art performances.
While Phu Quoc has fresh seafood and produces world-class fish sauce and peppercorns, my most memorable meal was actually French fine dining at Pink Pearl. Continuing the theme of incongruity, I wasn’t expecting one of the best meals I’ve ever enjoyed, including Japanese wagyu and French scallops, to be served on this small tropical island. The artfully presented food was enhanced by the everything-pink setting, from servers in sequined flapper dresses to the mad-genius decor (think a shell-encrusted flamingo, an odd-looking penguin, a stuffed peacock and a larger-than-life white owl – things that definitely shouldn’t work together but somehow do), all under a soaring ceiling and accompanied by a pianist and violinist.
What are some of your best tips for someone who wants to plan the same trip?
If this is your first time to Phu Quoc, think about splitting your time between the main town of Duong Dong with its fun night market and vibrant restaurant scene and the postcard-pretty beaches to the south including Kem Beach and neighboring Sao Beach (popular with day trippers on island tours). That way, you’ll get a taste of local island life as well as a more relaxed beach-centric getaway. For a more wallet-friendly trip, check out some of the mini hotels in Sunset Town or look for deals that bundle accommodations together with activities like Kiss of the Sea and a day out on Hon Thom Island.
James Pham traveled to Phu Quoc on the invitation of Sun Group. Lonely Planet does not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage.
With its gender-fluid fashion scene and colourful LGBT culture – not to mention rumoured gay royals of yesteryear – Stockholm is a vibrant, open and welcoming city.
Sweden is known for its progressive values and they’re on clear display throughout its capital, where inclusivity permeates through hotels, restaurants, bars and fashion. Plus, Stockholm hosts the biggest Pride celebration in Scandinavia and it’s not to be missed.
Here’s our guide for visitors to Stockholm Pride, with top tips on the best LGBT-friendly places to stay and things to do to make the most of a trip to the city and its festival.
The skinny on Stockholm Pride
This year, Stockholm (27 July–5 August 2018) is co-hosting EuroPride together with Gothenburg, (14 August–19 August 2018). Hundreds of activities and events will take place in museums, clubs and public spaces across the city, with a programme of music, art, theatre and seminars culminating in the EuroPride parade on Saturday 4 August.
Floating bar-restaurant Mälarpaviljongen will be putting on different events throughout the week, including DJ sessions, and Taverna Brillo will be hosting a party on the day of the parade.
When you’re not at Pride events, there are plenty of fab experiences on offer in Sweden’s capital. Start with a walk through Stockholm’s Old Town – it’s the best way to appreciate the beauty and character of the city. Meander through its cobbled streets, where you’ll find lots of little cafes and independent shops.
Also located in the Old Town is Kungliga Slottet (the Royal Palace), one of the largest palaces in Europe and the official residence of the King of Sweden, the longest reigning Swedish monarch. Here you can visit the silver throne belonging to the famously unconventional 17th-century Queen Kristina, who is rumoured to have been a lesbian, as well as learn about King Gustav III, who brought grand culture and opera to Stockholm, and who is also rumoured to have been gay. In fact, the LGBT Pride parade used to stop at his statue to lay a floral wreath.
Vasamuseet, Sweden’s most-visited museum, is worth checking out to see the world’s only complete 17th-century ship in all its ill-fated glory (it sank on its maiden voyage), while Fotografiska houses contemporary photography exhibitions from the likes of the renowned German photographer Ellen von Unwerth. And if you’re a fan of ABBA – and even if you’re not – a trip to ABBA The Museum is a lot of fun, with interactive digital features such as the chance to sing and dance with a hologram of the band themselves! Meanwhile, if you’re hoping to take away some Swedish style, the Stockholm fashion district Bibliotekstan is where you’ll find likes of Hope and Acne Studios.
If you want to enjoy a drink or two, then the LGBT-friendly floating bar Mälarpaviljongen has great views and may be just what you’re after. You can also say ‘yes way to rosé’, as the bar makes a donation to the Rainbow Fund with every purchase. To see another side to Stockholm, head to Södra Teatern, an ornate 19th-century theatre-turned-vegetarian-restaurant-and-club. Head to the rooftop Champagnebaren for expansive views of the city. Alternatively, if you’re looking to dance the night away, Club King Kong has rooms playing different of genres of music to suit a variety of tastes.
After all the Pride events and sightseeing, you’ll likely have built up a good appetite for the culinary delights that Stockholm has to offer. The breakfast buffet at Hotel Diplomat makes all others pale in comparison; you can even make your own waffles here. If you like a view with your fresh and seasonal food, then the Hotel Skeppsholmen, located on the island of the same name, is a must for brunch or lunch, especially if you want to try traditional Swedish meatballs.
If you’re a coffee fan, then pop along to Johan & Nyström, where they roast their own beans; you’ll have the choice of ordering your coffee in a coffee press, Chemex or AeroPress. They also have great pastries and vegetarian options. POP HOUSE Food & Bar is a fun spot to dine at before or after you check out the ABBA museum and is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Their bistro menu has European influences.
Trendy Taverna Brillo is a vibrant venue. Open from early morning to late evening, it has unique decor and is a favourite with the locals – expect excellent service – and there’s sometimes a live DJ. The cuisine is Italian-inspired with a Swedish twist, with dishes such as a pizza with truffle, honey, mushrooms and Swedish cheese. If you’d like a more intimate ambiance, then Green Queen is a lunch and dinner spot serving up delicious plant-based street food. The menu offers great comfort food from vegan sloppy joes to chickpea burgers, and the food certainly isn’t lacking in flavour.
Where to stay
Stockholm is not short of quality LGBT-friendly hotels with excellent customer service. Hotel Rival, owned by ABBA’s Benny Andersson, is a small, plush boutique hotel located in the Södermalm area of the city. The breakfast buffet is included in the room rate and the deluxe rooms have quaint balconies overlooking the square. The movie Mamma Mia! even previewed in the hotel’s theatre with an audience including ABBA and the cast of the film.
If you’d rather stay closer to the centre of Stockholm, then luxurious Hotel Diplomat is a great choice. This opulent hotel has unique features such as a fun anitique lift that can just about fit two people with suitcases – you have to make sure you shut the door for it to work. Ask for a room with views over the small bay of Nybroviken.
If quirky Scandinavian style is more your scene, then boutique hotel Hobo may be just what you’re looking for, with its neon signs, numerous hanging plants and modern minimalist design.
For more LGBT-friendly recommendations, try Stockholm LGBT; the site features businesses and organisations committed to upholding Stockholm’s reputation as one of the most diverse and inclusive cities in the world.
We field this question a lot here at Lonely Planet’s New York City headquarters: Nantucket or Martha’s Vineyard?
While you could visit both (both are beloved getaways, both are accessible by ferry, both have airports), summer vacation time (particularly for those from the USA) is criminally limited. And this question deserves an answer.
Associate Editor Ann Douglas Lott swears by the hilly landscapes and charming towns on Martha’s Vineyard. Senior Director of Content Brekke Fletcher’s most recent trip to Nantucket was chilly and rain-soaked, yet she’d pick Nantucket again and again.
Even though these two LP-ers work side by side, be they writing and editing each other’s work or laughing over lunch, this is the row we all knew was coming. Now it’s up to you to decide which writer makes the better case for their preferred summer isle. Let the battle commence.
Rugged, hilly landscapes, jaw-dropping oceanside cliffs, over 120 miles of coastline and six unique beach towns – Martha’s Vineyard is summertime bliss. On both Nantucket and Martha’s Vineyard, you’ll find beautiful beaches, lighthouses, fresh seafood and charming, walkable (or cyclable) towns. But as far as New England summer vacations go, Martha’s Vineyard’s (or, as the locals and regulars call it, the Vineyard) natural beauty and sheer variety of experiences are unmatched. About twice the size of Nantucket, there’s so much more to uncover in its variety of landscapes – Nantucket, on the other hand, is almost entirely flat. The Vineyard’s wide-open spaces make for an alluring getaway for both the Obamas and us New Yorkers especially.
First of all, getting here is way easier, with more high-season ferry services available from New Bedford and Cape Cod in Massachusetts, as well as from Rhode Island, New York and New Jersey. There’s also an airport on the island, and direct flights here from New York City can be very affordable if you book early enough (I just booked one for July for just $88). But if you’re bringing your own car, you’ll need to take the ferry. As soon as you step off the ferry in Oak Bluffs, you can walk directly into its colorful, lively town, admiring the famous “gingerbread houses,” hopping on the carousel before grabbing an ice cream, or you can rent a car – or take a reliable and affordable public bus – and keep exploring.
And with so much ground to cover, you’ll want a few days here to keep exploring. While Nantucket has an admittedly charming main town, Martha’s Vineyard has that times six: Aquinnah, Chilmark, Edgartown, Oak Bluffs, Vineyard Haven and West Tisbury. You’ll have a completely different trip depending on where you base yourself. Go to Aquinnah for the low-key vibe and stunning cliffs, or stay in Edgartown and stroll through its charming brick lanes lined with shingle-style homes, stopping into ice cream shops and boutiques. More places to stay also means more accommodation options for all budgets, so you don’t actually need to have a CEO’s salary (or know someone who has a CEO’s salary) to stay here.
You also have an embarrassment of beaches to choose from. There’s Aquinnah Beach, which is ideal for enormous, crashing waves, dramatic cliff views and the most gorgeous, peaceful sunsets. There’s also Lighthouse Beach, right in Edgartown, which is a good choice for calmer waters, a great tanning spot and, of course, a lighthouse visit with a view of the harbor. Or, if you want the fun crowds and exciting waves, go to South Beach, where the opening scene of Jaws was filmed. Bottom line: you won’t run out of options.
And yet, amidst all that “more,” there’s something magically rugged and unspoiled about Martha’s Vineyard. It’s easy to break away from the more crowded areas and experience the island’s natural beauty, whether you’re watching a sunset on a secluded beach, driving through beautiful farmland or hiking on wooded trails and along seaside cliffs. Slow living is the norm here. Almost a third of the island is protected, meaning you won’t find massive chain hotels taking over its beaches. The same goes for local shops and restaurants. You also won’t find strict dress codes here because everything is so laid-back – no need to pack your finest, preppiest ‘fits or Nantucket reds.
If you still can’t decide between the two, save the smaller island of Nantucket for a day trip. You can return to the Vineyard in no time to watch the pink sunset.
Um, the sunsets are pink in Nantucket, too. Nice try. And you say smaller like it’s a bad thing, but that’s one of the reasons I prefer Nantucket to the Vineyard. (Also: what’s with that moniker? There are other vineyards in the world? This is another reason I don’t love MV as much. Snooty!)
Now, as a journalist, I must disclose that I broke my foot in Martha’s Vineyard over a decade ago, descending a single stair carrying a tray of martinis. It was a top traumatic experience of my life (ambulance to island hospital, ambulance to ferry, ferry to ambulance, ambulance to Mass General and several thousands of dollars I did not have).
But this is not the reason I advocate for Nantucket. Yes, it’s smaller and flatter, but that just makes it much easier to get around, particularly on two wheels. You can bike (or e-bike) almost anywhere on the island, and that fact alone makes it the better eco-choice. And if you’re not a biker, Nantucket is also served by a free shuttle service that covers most of the island. Not so on Martha’s Vineyard.
The reason there are more transportation options to get to and from Martha’s Vineyard is that it’s busier. To be fair, in the summer high season, some preplanning and reservations are absolutely necessary on both islands. You cannot just roll onto a car ferry. And while Martha’s Vineyard boasts many celebrity summer residents, like the Obamas, Nantucket is the island of choice for the sitting president’s family, the Bidens.
Nantucket’s Main Street downtown area is an idyllic and bustling New England village, with shingled buildings, historic sea captain’s homes and exquisite churches, brick-lined streets and sidewalks. To add to the old-timey vibe, look out for their decorative street lamps. It is as walkable as it is charming with many extraordinary restaurants to choose from (Via Mare and Nautilus are stand-outs), unique, hyperlocal shopping experiences, and one-of-a-kind museums. Tootling around town, yes, you’ll see some folks wearing Nantucket’s signature red, but it is far from a requirement. In fact, I would argue that Nantucket is significantly less fussy about fashion than Martha’s Vineyard, but we’d need the fashion police to sort that one out.
Outside of typical summer holiday fare, Nantucket’s whaling history and literary bonafides – ever hear of a little tome entitled Moby Dick – make it a better choice for history buffs and readers of historical fiction. Do not miss out on the Whaling Museum.
Remember when I mentioned that “The Vineyard” can be a bit snooty? I have two words for you that should never be uttered together: private beaches. All beaches on Nantucket are public, no private security will chase you off the shore.
And speaking of beaches, Nantucket has plenty to choose from. There’s family-friendly Jetties Beach just a stone’s throw from Main Street. North shore beaches tend to be calmer and warmer (there is one called The Bathtub), while the south shore is better for catching waves – Cisco Beach is popular with surfers and young adults. Siasconset (or Sconset) is all the way east, and since its beaches are a bit out of the way, they tend to be less packed with crowds (don’t miss out the Sconset Bluff Walk, though that is frequently crowded). TLDR: There is a beach in Nantucket for anyone and everyone.
There are plenty of charming accommodations scattered across the island, from family-run B&Bs to loft apartments downtown, but no big resorts or deafeningly loud clubs. Rent a house with friends or post up at one of the locally owned luxury hotels, like The Wauwinet or The White Elephant (I love both and recently stayed at newly renovated Cottages at the Boat Basin). And the purveyors at the farmers markets and local provisioners provide decidedly superior produce and seafood. In particular, the oysters in Nantucket are the best.
I could go on, but I’m out of space: trust me, Nantucket is where it’s at, and not just in summer. My preference is to visit Nantucket in late September to savor the last flash of summer heat in the quiet, calm perfection that precedes a beautiful autumn.
