Archives March 2023

From misty cloud forests and steamy rainforests to beautiful beaches and volcanic peaks, Costa Rica is dazzling in its diversity. This Central American hotspot is home to an astonishing array of wildlife, including sea turtles, macaws, sloths and four species of monkeys.

Accommodations are as varied as the landscapes, from tree houses and forest campsites to an airplane reimagined as an apartment, and the emphasis is on minimizing guests’ impact on Costa Rica’s fragile ecosystems.

Hiking, mountain biking, whitewater rafting and ziplining are just some of the adrenaline-inducing adventures on offer, or you can just slow down, reconnect with nature and embrace the pura vida lifestyle.

Whether your budget is big or small, here are some of the most unique places to stay in Costa Rica for a vacation that won’t cost the planet.

1. Wet and wild adventures at Pacuare Lodge

Who needs a 4WD when you can reach this out-of-the-way rainforest escape by white-water raft, navigating Class III and IV rapids along the world-famous Río Pacuare?

Built along the riverbank amid spectacular jungle scenery, Pacuare Lodge is the epitome of rustic luxury, with 20 sumptuous suites decorated with Indigenous artwork, a serene spa and a multi-level restaurant overlooking the river.

Located two and a half hours from San José, this family-run lodge focuses on sustainability, working closely with the indigenous Cabécar community on cultural and nature tours.

After braving the rapids to get here, adrenaline junkies can indulge in more high-octane adventures, from challenging hikes to ziplining and canyoning, and conservation fees help to fund numerous local projects.

2. Try regenerative living at Rancho Margot

Twenty years ago, a Chilean scientist bought 400 acres of former cattle ranch land near Lake Arenal and began to restore the decimated landscape with endemic flora and fauna.

Today, Rancho Margot is part off-the-grid ecolodge, part self-sufficient organic farm and part living laboratory, where the owners grow crops, produce electricity and build furniture using timber harvested from reforestation projects.

Guests can sleep in the bunkhouse or a spacious bungalow, spending days exploring the sprawling ranch, hiking the trails around the Arenal Volcano, kayaking on the lake, horseback riding, mountain biking and rappeling down waterfalls. Afterward, ease weary muscles in spring-fed rock pools before a fabulous farm-to-table feast.

3. A room with a caffeine fix at Finca Rosa Blanca

Wake up and smell the coffee at Finca Rosa Blanca, a carbon-neutral organic coffee farm and art-filled boutique hotel. Inside, 14 one-of-a-kind suites and villas pop with color, courtesy of local artists.

The property is surrounded by gorgeous tropical gardens where everything is supersized, from jumbo Swiss cheese plants to giant blue morpho butterflies.

Finca Rosa Blanca is set in the lush Central Valley, close to historic Heredia and San José, and guests can discover how the coffee beans are plucked, dried and roasted before a tasting session. Alongside adventure tours, visits to local artisans and cacao farms are also on the menu.

4. A canopy getaway at Topo’s Tree House

Instead of cutting down trees to construct his ecolodge, Slavko “Topo” Topolovsek built around them.

The result is a multi-level, two-bedroom tree house snuggled in the outstretched branches of a rubber tree, with massive aerial roots incorporated into the design. It’s the perfect height for spying on monkeys, sloths and toucans.

The treehouse is a pebble’s throw from the black sand beach of Playa Negra in Cahuita, a village settled by West Indian immigrants on Costa Rica’s Caribbean coast.

Check out the beachfront Reggae Bar for live music and typical Caribbean fare, such as coconut chicken or grilled red snapper. Don’t miss a guided snorkeling tour over the coral reefs of nearby Cahuita National Park.

5. A picture-perfect stay at La Caravana

The retro-chic Airstream trailers that make up the accommodation at La Caravana are as Instagrammable as the stellar sunsets that can be seen from the doorstep, framed by the palm-fringed golden sweep of Playa Carillo.

Choose from a cleverly remodeled and beautifully furnished Overlander, Argosy or Avion Imperial caravan for your stay near one of Costa Rica’s best beaches.

All come with air-conditioning and fully-equipped kitchenettes, workspaces for digital nomads and private gardens for eating and lounging, and there are local restaurants within strolling distance.

Playa Carillo is a place to slow down and indulge in life’s simple pleasures, connecting with the local community, and your helpful hosts can arrange everything from surfing lessons to boat tours and horseback rides.

6. Fly high at 727 Fuselage Home

With its red nose jutting out of the rainforest, this vintage Boeing 727 jet is arguably Costa Rica’s quirkiest place to sleep.

Rescued from San José airport and turned into a one-of-a-kind, two-bedroom apartment, this former passenger plane is surprisingly spacious, and lined with hand-carved Indonesian teak, with a bathroom in the cockpit. The engines are gone, but staying here still feels like flying across the treetops.

The plane sits in the expansive grounds of the Hotel Costa Verde, surrounded by tropical foliage.

You’re just a short walk from Playa Espadilla, bordering the hugely popular Manual Antonio National Park – don’t be surprised if you see squirrel monkeys scampering across the fuselage! Continue the plane theme at El Avion, a C-123 Fairchild cargo plane reinvented as a bar and restaurant in Manuel Antonio.

7. Jungle Camping at La Leona Ecolodge

On the fringes of the wild and wonderful Corcovado National Park on the isolated Osa Peninsula, La Leona Ecolodge is a family-owned glamping site set in a private reserve. Simple, safari-style tents sit on wooden decks, offering views over a deserted beach or a tangle of rainforest.

Hike along jungle trails – the park is home to Costa Rica’s four native species of monkeys and magnificent macaws that know no boundaries – or just lounge in a hammock and wait for the wildlife to come to you.

Then shower under the sun or stars, dine at the al fresco restaurant and be lulled to sleep by the sound of Pacific rollers.

8. Cuddle up in the cloud forest at Chira Glamping Monteverde

Get close to the wildlife-rich cloud forests around Monteverde at Chira Glamping. No sleeping bags are needed here; round pods come with marshmallow-soft beds, air-conditioning, Wi-Fi and minibars, and there are outdoor showers and hot tubs.

Monteverde’s mist-wreathed reserve is home to evocatively named hummingbirds, sloths, howler monkeys and more. Hike through primary, secondary and open forest then splurge at San Lucas, a treetop restaurant with tables set in glass cubes perched high on a mountainside.

The surprise nine-course tasting menu of contemporary Costa Rican cuisine will take you on a tour around the country, with thrilling views and a forest noises soundtrack.

9. Stargaze from your bed at Green Moon Lodge

A dome house with a difference, Green Moon Lodge was a labor of love. Designed by its owner, Katrin Heintschel, this emerald-green lodge was constructed using a mix of concrete blocks and dishwasher detergent.

With a little help from her artist friends, Katrin then decorated the lodge with plant and marine motifs, adding ornate welded iron doors and windows.

This private rental sits in the hills of Montezuma on the chilled-out Nicoya Peninsula, one of the five world Blue Zones associated with long life, and one of the best places to visit in Costa Rica.

Head to the coast for surfing, sunning and spying on nesting sea turtles. When not spotting monkeys and butterflies in the tropical garden, you can open the roof and stargaze from your bed.

Good news for everyone hoping to book the ultimate Galápagos Islands trip. You don’t need to book a cruise to discover the wonders of this destination. There are a number of different options for visiting the Galápagos. Regis St Louis, who has journeyed extensively across the archipelago for multiple editions of Lonely Planet Ecuador, explains how to visit the Galápagos Islands, create an independent itinerary, and even save some money while doing it.

Question: I’ve been dreaming about taking a trip to the Galápagos archipelago, but it seems like the only way to visit is on an all-inclusive cruise. Are there any other ways to visit the islands?

Regis St Louis: The majority of visitors to the Galápagos travel around the islands on a cruise, which costs somewhere between US$400 and US$1000 per person per day. However, there is a far more economical way to explore different facets of the archipelago. By traveling independently, using inter-island boats and basing yourself at onshore hotels and guesthouses, you can easily cut your costs significantly, to $200 a day or less. 

What to know about the fees and etiquette

Government Fees for visitors

In August 2024, the Ecuadorian government raised the Galápagos visitor fee to US$200 per person for most international visitors (including US nationals) and to $100 per person for visitors from the MERCOSUR countries of Argentina, Brazil, Colombia, Paraguay, Peru, and Uruguay. This visitor fee is mandatory and goes toward protecting Galápagos National Park from the dangers of overtourism. You will also need to pay US$20 for a transit card before you board your flight to the island.  

Etiquette

When you visit, it’s important to follow some rules to respect and protect nature in the Galápagos. Littering, for starters, is a big no. It’s also important to maintain a respectful distance of six feet (or 2m) from wild animals, and to avoid feeding them. Stay on the designated trails, and avoid flash photography. That said, you also want to focus on supporting businesses that go the distance to protect their local environment. Finally, don’t buy products made from sensitive natural materials like black coral, marine tortoise shells, or sea lion teeth. 

When to go

Wet vs. dry season

When you visit the Galapágos depends on what you want to do, what weather you prefer, and which animals you want to see.

The weather defines the islands’ dry and wet seasons. Calmer ocean conditions coincide with warmer, wetter weather from December to May, when water temperatures average a super pleasant 24°C. Though waters are rougher and temps cooler from June to December, wildlife is more abundant. Shoulder season from August to October tends to see fewer crowds.

If you’re hoping to spot animals like hammerhead sharks, manta rays, marine iguanas, sea turtles, penguins, and sea lions, you probably want to go during the warm and wet season. But if you’re aiming to see whales and dolphins, whale sharks, giant tortoises, and a wider variety of birds (including the famed blue-footed boobies), you probably want to go during the cool and dry season. If you’re hoping to do some diving or snorkeling to view more of the native marine wildlife, you’ll probably want to go during the warm and wet season. But if you prefer exploring more on dry land, you may prefer the hiking conditions during the cool and dry season.

El Niño and La Niña

Another thing to remember while planning a Galápagos trip is the global climate phenomena known as El Niño and La Niña. During El Niño years, warm ocean currents and storm systems drift north to North America’s Pacific Coast during the winter months, and the sudden loss of trade winds and nutrient-rich cool water can harm local Galápagos wildlife like penguins, seals, and iguanas. Whereas during La Niña years, cold ocean currents keep winters extra dry for much of North America’s west coast, and the abundance of nutrient-rich cool water in the Galápagos tends to benefit local wildlife. 

How to reach the Galápagos Islands

The Galápagos Islands lie 1000km west of mainland Ecuador. If you’re not setting sail on a cruise, getting there means taking a flight from Quito or Guayaquil. Most flights depart in the morning, so if you are flying from your home country, your Galápagos flight will likely depart the day after you arrive in Ecuador.

Flights serve both Santa Cruz Island (Baltra airport; GPS) and San Cristóbal Island (SCY). If you have more than a few days to spend on the archipelago, it’s easy to fly into one island and back to the mainland from the other.

Before checking in to your Galápagos flight at Quito or Guayaquil, you will need to pay a US$20 fee for a mandatory tourist transit card and have all your luggage inspected by the Galápagos Biosecurity Agency. Once you arrive at Baltra or San Cristóbal, you must pay the above-mentioned US$200 Galápagos National Park visitor fee in cash. Keep in mind that non-residents are not allowed to purchase one-way tickets to the Galápagos. You will also probably need to plan an overnight stay in Quito or Guayaquil before catching your flight home.

Inter-island travel in the Galápagos

There are quite a few misconceptions about this famous archipelago. Some people imagine a wilderness full of exotic plant and animal life scattered across rugged, entirely uninhabited islands. Plenty of unique species exist here, from massive tortoises to ocean-going lizards. Meanwhile, the terrain resembles few other places on Earth with its otherworldly lava tunnels, misty highland forests and pink-sand lagoons.

Some 32,000 people are scattered across four main islands in this remote corner of Ecuador, while the fifth island of Baltra just has an airport.  When residents move between the islands, they don’t travel by cruise ship.

Private speed boats (called lanchas) offer an affordable way to hop between these main islands. Isla Santa Cruz is the hub, with daily departures west to the island of Isabela, east to San Cristóbal and south to Floreana. These boats leave in the morning and afternoon and take around two hours each way. The current one-way fare is around $35 (Ecuador uses the US dollar, making for easy, conversion-less travel for American visitors).

Using these small, fast boats to get around, you can base yourself at the main town on each inhabited island, then take day trips to see many of the natural wonders of the Galápagos. 

You can splash out for a few day tours (or skip them altogether), then supplement your island experience with DIY adventures. Puerto Ayora, the archipelago’s largest town, is home to the Charles Darwin Research Station, which offers fascinating insights into an important breeding program for giant tortoises. (This tortoise tour only costs $10.) North of town, at El Chato Tortoise Reserve, you can see the lumbering giants in the wild. At nearby Los Gemelos, vermilion flycatchers flit through the air amid rare scalesia forest. Over on Isla San Cristóbal, you can hire a bike for a spin out to La Lobería, where marine iguanas bask in great piles on the rocky beach. Isabela, the biggest island, makes a great base for memorable adventures, including a full-day trip up to Sierra Negra, with its simmering fumaroles and otherworldly views across a volcanic landscape. A short boat ride from Puerto Villamil (Isabela’s principal town), Las Tintoreras is one of the archipelago’s best places for snorkeling in the midst of Galápagos penguins.

The pros and cons of DIY Galápagos travel 

It’s important to keep in mind that many places in the Galápagos are simply not accessible by day trip. If you’re dying to see the waved albatross, for instance, you’ll need to go to Isla Española, the only place in the archipelago where you’ll find a huge colony of the birds (from April to December). Yet you can’t get there unless you’re traveling on a live-aboard boat that includes the island in its itinerary (not all cruises do). Likewise, Isla Genovesa, Isla Marchena and Isla Wolf (famous for its scuba diving) are all too remote to reach on a day trip. 

On the other hand, traveling exclusively by cruise ship gives you only the briefest of glimpses of another fascinating side of life: the islands’ human dimension. Puerto Ayora’s seaside market features fishmongers dexterously preparing the day’s catch under the watchful gaze of sea lions and pelicans. While in town, you can try restaurants like Isla Grill, Almar and Garrapata to taste local flavors and enjoy authentic Ecuadorian cuisine. A short boat ride followed by an easy hike takes you to Las Grietas, which draws locals and the odd tourist for a swim through sun-dappled waters while daredevils launch themselves from the overhanging cliffs. At Playa Mann, there’s the curious spectacle of families relaxing on the sands besides basking sea lions. And with no ship-based itinerary to follow, you won’t have to miss out on beautiful beaches like Tortuga Bay, reachable via a forest-lined path from town. Staying onshore also gives you ample opportunities to hear stories from locals – people like Elena Albarado, a resident of the Galápagos since 1983, and owner of the eco-friendly Casa del Lago.

Speaking of lodging, you’ll find plenty of options, both budget-friendly and more luxurious, on all of the inhabited islands. Higher-end places, like Pikaia Lodge and Galapagos Safari Camp, also offer land-based tour packages. And if you’re interested in pick-and-mix tours, local operators offer a full gamut of half- and full-day excursions like those offered by Galapagos BK Tours, with departures from Santa Cruz, Isabela and San Cristóbal.

More ideas for saving money on your Galápagos trip

As we discuss how to visit the Galápagos Islands, you might still be wondering when to book your trip to score the best deals. As mentioned earlier, the Galápagos has no official high or low season. That said, October usually marks the tail end of the islands’ cool and dry season, so this might be your best time to find lower prices and fewer crowds. 

While you can score some last-minute deals on flights, accommodations, tours, and cruises, this is always risky. Again, it’s important to remember how popular the Galápagos is with tourists year-round. You’re almost always better off booking everything as far in advance as possible to avoid those last-minute markups that tend to occur much more frequently than last-minute sales.

Technically, there are hardly any free attractions since you have to pay for your tourist transit card and for entry into Galápagos National Park. Nonetheless, you can find places like the Charles Darwin Research Station with many free activities, such as offering free access to the beautiful La Ratonera and Station beaches. Even better, the Galápagos has plenty more beaches that don’t cost any extra money, such as Playa Mann and Punta Carola on San Cristóbal Island and Tortuga Bay and Playa el Bazan on Santa Cruz Island. And if you come with your own equipment, you can enjoy epic surf sessions at many of these beaches. (Even if you don’t, you can find affordable surfboard rentals at local shops.)

For most wilderness areas, you need to pay for a guided tour. However, a few trails, such as the one to Playa Baquerizo on Isla San Cristóbal and the hike to Media Luna and Cerro Crocker on Isla Santa Cruz, are free to access. And if you’re more of an urban explorer, you can have some fun wandering around town at Puerto Ayora (on Isla Santa Cruz) and Puerto Baquerizo Moreno (on Isla San Cristóbal).

Electric-green palms stretching above glinting backwaters that empty into rippling lakes. Honey-colored beaches washed by the tropical surf dotted along an almost 600km(370-mile)-long coastline. Fragrant coconut-laced stews mopped up with fluffy appam (rice-flour pancakes). 

This is just a taste of what awaits discovery on a trip around India’s magical, laid-back southwesternmost state. 

Kerala is defined by its vast network of canals, lakes and rivers, which together make up those fabled backwaters. All along the coast, relaxed beach towns deliver palm-fringed sands, seafood shacks and ayurveda centers, while inland waterways thread past spice-growing farms and palm trees heavy with cococuts. Heading into the cooler hills, the mist-wrapped mountainscapes of the richly biodiverse, UNESCO-protected Western Ghats stop everyone in their tracks.

Then there’s Kerala’s rich arts scene, from centuries-old Kathakali dance-drama to a flourishing wave of contemporary art in evocative Kochi (Cochin). Like most of India’s other southern states, Kerala has its own official language, Malayalam, along with a packed calendar of colorful regional festivals. 

I’ve been spending time in Kerala regularly for over a decade (often on Lonely Planet assignments), and have explored all the way from the beaches of southern Kovalam and northern Kasaragod to the jade-green tea gardens of the lofty Western Ghats.

Tempted yet? Here’s how to get started. 

When should I go to Kerala? 

Kerala’s main tourism season is November to April, when the weather is tropically pleasant all along the coast, with highs of around 31°C (88°F) in Kochi. Things feel busiest (and priciest) during the peak months of December to February, when it pays to book well ahead for accommodation, trains and houseboats. There’s also an array of wonderful cultural events around this time, including the vibrant Kochi–Muziris Biennale and the International Film Festival of Kerala, held in the state capital of Thiruvananthapuram (Trivandrum). 

The Western Ghats make for a cool retreat any time of year, especially around tea-growing Munnar, which sits at an elevation of 1500m (4921ft), with daytime temperatures only climbing to the mid-20s°C (70s°F) during high season. 

The July and August monsoon months have long been the traditional time for ayurveda in Kerala, though many centers offer retreats and therapies year-round. If you’re here in August/September, you’ll catch the fabulous festivities for Onam – with traditional arts on show and onam sadhya feasts served on banana leaves – and the famous snakeboat races in Alappuzha (Alleppey) (expect things to be busy around both events). It’s worth keeping in mind that landslides and flooding have occurred during rainy months in recent years. 

How much time should I spend in Kerala? 

You could spend months traveling around Kerala and still be discovering new corners. For India-based travelers, places like culture-packed Kochi and beachy Varkala make for ideal short-break escapes, with handy transport, great food scenes, inspired accommodation and plenty to explore in the immediate vicinity. 

A trip of around two weeks should thoroughly immerse you in Kerala’s palm-studded beauty. Perhaps combine a few days of history, food and monuments in Kochi with south-coast hubs like Varkala, Kovalam and Alleppey, then add on a spin up into the Western Ghats for hiking in Munnar and wildlife-spotting in Periyar Tiger Reserve. An alternative itinerary could take in the joys of Kerala’s less-touristed north coast (more on this below) and the ethereal Wayanad region of the Ghats. Or combine Kerala’s north and south in a multi-week adventure at a more relaxed pace.

Is it easy to get to and around Kerala? 

Kerala has excellent transport links, starting with well-connected international airports in both Kochi and Trivandrum. Smaller airports at Kannur, Kozhikode (Calicut) and Mangaluru (Mangalore; in southern Karnataka) now make reaching northern Kerala a breeze, too.

Trains conveniently connect most lowland destinations, letting passengers soak in all those lush landscapes along the way. Since 2023, fast new Vande Bharat trains run from Trivandrum to Kerala’s far north in just 8 hours. (Check out this guide for tips on booking train tickets in India.) For day excursions and longer trips, many travelers hire a car with a driver, which works particularly well if splitting the cost between a few passengers. Budget travelers can take advantage of frequent local buses. Bus and car are the only way to reach the mountainous Western Ghats. (Though a train does trundle up their eastern side, from Tamil Nadu.)

Local ferries are a great, budget-friendly way to travel around the backwaters – especially state-run ferries across vast Vembanad Lake, such as the popular Alleppey–Kottayam route. Or jump on the Kochi Water Metro for quick ferry hops between the city’s islands and mainland Ernakulam. 

Top things to do in Kerala 

Cruise through the palm-fringed backwaters 

An unforgettable, low-impact way to explore the famous backwaters is on an expert-led kayak or canoe trip, which typically travel along small offbeat canals and visit secluded villages for lunch. The main hub for backwaters adventures is lively Alleppey (Alappuzha), but for a quieter experience it’s well worth the journey north to the lesser-known Valiyaparamba backwaters near Kannur. 

Backwaters trips aboard pretty “rice barge” houseboats can also be spectacular (with a little planning), though in recent years concerns have emerged about their impact on this fragile environment. To find a responsible houseboat operator, it pays to research and book well ahead. 

For a truly special backwaters experience, conservation-driven The Blue Yonder runs fabulous sunset canoe tours, culminating in a dinner on a repurposed fishing-net platform just outside Kochi. Or stay a few nights at a waterfront property and catch pink-woven sunrises over the quiet waterways: we recommend the boutique feel of Kayal Island Retreat near Kochi, or a spice-growing homestay at Philipkutty’s Farm on Vembanad Lake. 

Soak up arts, architecture and gastronomy in Kochi

Set on a meandering estuary, Kochi is Kerala’s cultural capital and one of South India’s loveliest cities to wander. It was colonized by the Portuguese in the 16th century, then by the Dutch and British, and has recently emerged as one of India’s creative hubs. Leafy Fort Kochi – Kochi’s flat main historical district – is a joy to explore on foot or by bike, as you weave past landmarks such as the Portuguese-built St Francis Church and timeworn streets now adorned with bright murals. Many heritage buildings here have been reborn as arty cafes, creative galleries and soulful hotels. Kashi Art Cafe is a pioneer of the scene, going strong since the 1990s. 

In neighboring Mattancherry, explore relics such as the 16th-century Mattancherry Palace (decorated with exquisite Hindu murals from the 17th to 19th centuries) and the tile-filled Pardesi Synagogue, which give you a taste of this richly multicultural district’s past. Kochi Heritage Project runs amazing food walks through Mattancherry, allowing you a (literal) taste of its many different communities. 

Spot rare wildlife in the misty Western Ghats

The serene Western Ghats provide a refuge for all kinds of wild creatures, with many of its untrammeled areas protected as national parks, tiger reserves and wildlife sanctuaries. Catching a glimpse of a wild elephant hidden in the greenery, a langur whirling through the forest canopy or perhaps a great hornbill whooshing high above could well be your most memorable Kerala moment. A few very lucky visitors might even spy an elusive tiger. Chances for wildlife-spotting are fairly good from November to April, with the best months March and April, when animals congregate at watering holes. 

Periyar Tiger Reserve, a 777-sq-km (300-sq-mile) wonderland in Kerala’s southern Ghats, is the state’s most-loved wildlife haven. Its game-changing ecotourism program offers overnight wildlife-watching excursions led by retrained poachers, in addition to day walks within the park itself as well as family-friendly lake cruises. In northern Kerala, the beautiful Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary is part of a sprawling network of biodiverse, interconnecting nature reserves that also includes Bandipur and Nagarhole in neighboring Karnataka. You can easily visit a couple of these over a few days in Wayanad. There’s also great hiking through the region’s spice-producing hills and across its lush tea plantations.

Catch the south-coast surf waves

India’s now-flourishing surf scene revolves around its southern coast, and several beach towns in Kerala have grown into wave-riding hubs. Laid-back Varkala, just north of Trivandrum, is leading the way, with a string of surf schools catering to both beginners and more-advanced surfers. Soul & Surf helped kick things off here and now runs small-group surf sessions at locations up and down the surrounding coast, as well as a boutique-flavored guesthouse and yoga classes in a breezy rooftop shala. Varkala’s setting – with rust-red cliffs rising from honey-coloured beaches and a revered ancient temple just inland – only adds to the appeal. 

Stay at a family-run homestay

Kerala is India’s homestay capital, and spending a few days based in the home of a local family will hugely enrich your understanding of this region while also supporting local communities. The best hosts will welcome guests with freshly cooked breakfasts, cups of steaming South Indian filter coffee, local stories shared over communal meals and the chance to learn classic Kerala recipes in the family kitchen. A few favorites? Rosegardens, a green-powered heritage home near Munnar; organic spice farm Varnam Homestay in Wayanad; and The Bungalow (a two-room 1930s house with popular cooking classes); and Reds Residency (a contemporary-style family home) in Kochi. 

My favorite thing to do in Kerala 

On every visit, I find time to wander around Kerala’s quiet northern Malabar Coast, which has miles of often-empty gold-sand beaches backed by endless palms and some of the most delicious food I’ve tried anywhere in India. I love staying at the rustic seafront homestays in Kannur (perhaps Kannur Beach House) and starting days with walks along Thottada Beach. This is also the best place to see Kerala’s ancient theyyam ritual at local temples during the December-to-February season. 

For a treat, I add on a few days at the heavenly Neeleshwar Hermitage near Bekal, a responsibly run beach-and-ayurveda retreat that lets guests enjoy early morning yoga, wonderful Malabar cooking and stylish thatch-roof cottages. 

How much money do I need for Kerala? 

• Hostel dorm bed: ₹400 (US$5) 

• Kochi food tour: ₹2000 (US$24) 

• Homestay room for two: ₹3500 (US$42) 

• Masala dosa: ₹50 (US$0.60) 

• Car with driver per day: ₹3000 (US$36) 

• Filter coffee: ₹10 (US$0.12) 

• Backwaters canoe or kayak tour: ₹1000 (US$12) 

More tips for enjoying Kerala 

Follow local dress etiquette

We always recommend following locals’ example in terms of what to wear. You’ll see bikinis on the beach in some places, like Kovalam, though many people in Kerala wear a t-shirt and long shorts when in the sea. Light, breathable fabrics are most comfortable for Kerala’s tropical climate. Dressing conservatively is appropriate for visiting places of worship; some of these welcome respectful visitors, while others may only be open to devotees. It’s best to ask before you enter. 

Take care with the tides 

Strong, dangerous currents can occur all along Kerala’s coast, including in popular beach towns like Varkala and Kovalam. Be careful if you’re swimming in the sea, and heed local guidance about potentially risky currents.

Check about hiking and trekking practicalities

Taking in the Western Ghats’ landscape on a hike is a unique thrill, though organizing walks can feel slightly complicated as regulations on which areas are open for trekking change often, particularly if there are wildlife-related concerns in a particular region. Many walks also require a permit of some kind, which you usually have to arrange only once you’ve arrived. It’s best to enquire locally, or join a guided trek with a reputable operator, such as the well-established Muddy Boots.

Considering the fact that the Bahamas is comprised of over 700 islands, it should be no surprise that the country is one of the Caribbean’s leading beach destinations. The striking contrast between the dark deep blue Atlantic waters and the hypnotizing hues of the country’s shallow turquoise seas have even become a treat for astronauts to behold from space.

Although the clear waters that the Bahamas has become famous for are visible from space, you won’t have to travel that far to enjoy them. With multiple islands to choose from, each with its own attractive quirks and qualities, the beaches here are varied and can cater to the wants of any traveler.

1. Surfer’s Beach

When thinking of surfing destinations, the Bahamas probably wouldn’t come to mind in the same way as California or Hawaii. However, with many of the Bahamas’ islands featuring a shoreline directly bordering the North Atlantic Ocean, surfing in the Bahamas is possible and often ideal. Surfer’s Beach, found on Eleuthera, offers a unique surfing experience not typically enjoyed in the Bahamas.

This beach is about two miles south of Gregory Town and is furnished with a charming beach shack that’s been built out of driftwood. Additionally, it features a stretch of powdery white sand shoreline that Caribbean islands are renowned for.

Planning tip: The optimum surfing conditions at Surfer’s Beach are during the months of September through February. The trade winds bring increased gusts during this time of year and increase surf action on the island’s windward coast. Due to the high surf action, usual beach activities like snorkeling aren’t recommended unless it’s done in the protected cove at the northern end of the beach.

2. Junkanoo Beach

What Junkanoo Beach doesn’t offer in privacy and seclusion, it makes up for in convenience and excitement. This stretch of sand is found in the heart of the bustling (at least by Caribbean standards) city of Nassau on the island of New Providence. It’s the Bahamas’ largest island in terms of population and it welcomes more visitors every year than the other Bahamian islands.

The beach itself is just a short five-minute walk west of the city’s cruise port, which is the country’s busiest, and it’s very popular with spring breakers. As you’d expect, this beach can get a little crowded. If isolation is what you’re after, this may not be the beach for you. However, as it attracts more visitors than other beaches, there are more beach activities and amenities available. Junkanoo Beach is also in close proximity to popular bars like Pirate Republic Brewing and Señor Frogs.

Despite the crowds, the clear blue waters at this beach remain a delight to the eyes.

Planning tip: Because this beach is easily accessible to cruise passengers, early arrival can help you snag your ideal spot before it gets too busy. You can bring your own towels or rent chairs and umbrellas from a local vendor.

3. Tropic of Cancer Beach

The Exumas are a chain of islands within the Bahamas numbering over 300 – seemingly an island for each day of the year. The largest of these emerald isles are Great and Little Exuma, which are connected by a short bridge. The Tropic of Cancer beach is located on Little Exuma and is actually the island’s longest beach.

This beach, named after the line of latitude that crosses the island at this point, is a spectacular stretch of bleached white sand and brilliant turquoise waters that the Bahamas is famed for. It is easily one of the most attractive beaches within the entire archipelago. The temptation of swimming at the northern border of the earth’s tropical region can’t be avoided.

The short stairway leading to the sand is an ideal spot for photos. While the beach does not offer any amenities, that also has an upside – you’re unlikely to encounter large crowds and the expansive stretch offers a level of peace and privacy that cannot be beaten.

Planning tip: Since Tropic of Cancer Beach is secluded, you must pack your beach day essentials. Bring food, drinks, and snorkeling equipment with you. 

4. Dean’s Blue Hole Beach

Dean’s Blue Hole is a large marine cavern system found off the shores of Long Island in The Central Bahamas. As the islands are composed of porous limestone rock, many of these sinkholes have formed over the years and the archipelago is now home to a large concentration of blue holes.

Dean’s Blue Hole is the world’s second deepest blue hole and is almost completely surrounded by a naturally occurring limestone rock amphitheater on three sides. Its depths attract free divers from across the earth. However, on one side, it is surrounded by a shallow lagoon and beach which is one of Long Island’s more attractive beaches and one of the best beaches in the Bahamas. The sickle-shaped beach itself is north of Clarence Town, the island’s capital and, like most of the beaches found on the Bahamas’ family islands, does not offer much in the way of amenities.

The allure of being able to sit on the edge of the world’s second deepest blue hole while feet away from the shore is this beach’s true attraction. True thrill seekers can climb to one of the three jump spots along the amphitheater’s cliff and dive into the depths below.

Planning tip: The road leading to Dean’s Blue Hole Beach is just off Queen’s Highway, which stretches for almost the complete length of the island. It is unpaved, so traveling along it would be best done in a 4WD. Additionally, unless visitors are strong swimmers, it’s not advised to swim near the edge of the blue hole itself – stick to the southern portion of the beach’s cove where the water remains shallow.

5. Fortune Beach

A quiet tract of white sandy beach, Fortune Beach is found in the city of Freeport on Grand Bahama. It’s rumored that a million-dollar shipwreck was found off the island’s coast near this beach – hence the name. Its location between two channels makes it ideal for beach activities like kite surfing.

This true appeal of this beach is found at low tide when a sand bar appears just feet from the shore and allows visitors to sunbathe on their own small private island, if only for a short while.

Planning tip: Many visitors regard this beach as a fan favorite, and while it’s typically on the quieter side, it can occasionally get crowded during peak season.

6. Pink Sands Beach

While powdery white sand beaches are ubiquitous in the Bahamas, a less common, but even more enticing, phenomena are pink sand beaches. The most renowned of them is Pink Sands Beach on Harbour Island’s Atlantic coast. One of the best beaches in the Bahamas, it captivatingly stretches for about three uninterrupted miles and offers visitors a unique experience that is, without a doubt, exceptional.

The turquoise Bahamian seas meet the speckled-pink sand to create a distinctive occurrence that arguably makes it one of the country’s most iconic beaches. Horseback riding along the shores of the beach is available, which enhances its unique appeal.

Planning tip: Harbour Island is a five-minute ferry ride from North Eleuthera at the Three Island Dock. During the months of November through March, Harbour Island can be quite busy. If you’d prefer to dodge the crowds, it’s best to avoid Pink Sands Beach during this time.

7. Gordon’s Beach

Another one of the best beaches in the Bahamas is found at the southern end of Long Island. Gordon’s Beach is located at the end of Queen’s Highway and is a short trek through salt pans – reminders of the island’s once prosperous natural salt production industry.

The way the sky gracefully kisses the ocean on the horizon at this beach is mesmerizing. While it is far from most resorts, the drive south along Queen’s Highway to Gordon’s Beach is the ultimate reward. This remote and breathtaking stretch of sand offers a true feeling of heaven on earth.

Planning tip: Most hotels and resorts are hours away. When visiting Gordon’s Beach, factor in several hours that includes driving to the beach, spending a decent amount of time there, and returning to accommodations. Fill your gas tank before you go and, while an SUV is not required, walking shoes are recommended to traverse the short dirt road which connects the highway to the beach.

8. Gaulding Cay Beach

A stroll along this beach, no matter the time of day, offers peace of mind that is peerless. Remote and quaint, along the shores of the Bight of Eleuthera, it is a calm alternative to any beach found on Eleuthera’s rugged Atlantic coast.

Just south of Eleuthera’s Glass Window Bridge in Gregory Town, the beach is divine and offers some of the Bahamas’ bluest waters. The best time to visit is at low tide when visitors can walk to the small island that gave the beach its name.

Typical of beaches found on the family islands of the Bahamas, there are no amenities, but the popular beach bar Daddy Joe’s is found nearby.

Planning tip: Because Gaulding Cay is off the beaten path, there aren’t any public facilities on the beach, so plan your day accordingly.

9. Long Bay Beach

San Salvador Island’s Long Bay Beach is the perfect marriage of picturesque enchantment and historical significance. This beach is found in the town of Long Bay – both the town and the beach are named after the long boats that Christopher Columbus and his crew came ashore in. Historians believe that Long Bay Beach was the site of Columbus’ first landing in the “New World.”

The beach site, also called Landfall Park, is furnished with numerous monuments to commemorate the Columbus landing. Offshore, snorkelers can also treat themselves to an undersea monument which is believed to be the exact spot where Columbus’ ship dropped anchor. Also featured on the beach is a monument erected by the International Olympic Committee that housed the Olympic torch on its way from Greece to Mexico for the 1968 Summer Olympic Games.

Planning tip: Consider the weather before you go.  Long Bay Beach’s conditions are more unpredictable than other popular Bahamian beaches.

10. Cable Beach

A standout beach experience in the Bahamas, Cable Beach stuns with its white sand coastline, clear waters and proximity to downtown Nassau. Stretching more than two miles, this beach is one of the most popular throughout the Bahamas’s inhabited islands. Like many beaches in the Bahamas, Cable Beach is reliably a year-round sensational day on the Caribbean Sea. 

Aside from delivering the perfect setting for a relaxing beach day, local vendors entice travelers with water sports rental equipment. Beach umbrellas and chairs are also available for shoreside lounging, and several bars and restaurants are within walking distance for food and drink needs.

Planning tip: Although it won’t be hard to find your spot in the sand, some beachgoers note the noise from nearby resorts and jet skis. If you don’t mind, the views and vibe of the beach are well worth the visit.