December 2022 – Page 2

Beaches

A first-time guide to Antigua & Barbuda

Ever dreamed of finding yourself a new beach for every day of the year? Well that’s exactly what’s on offer in the beautiful twin-island nation of Antigua and Barbuda, which famously boasts 365 separate strands.

They’re the perfect setting for sipping Antiguan rum punch under thatch umbrellas, or feasting on some of the freshest seafood you’ll find.

Got your attention yet? Here’s a guide for first-time visitors to this stunning Caribbean destination.

Aerial panoramic of man and woman floating in the turquoise sea near Pillar of Hercules, English Harbour, Antigua, Caribbean — There’s never a bad time to discover Antigua & Barbuda’s glorious beaches and turquoise waters.

When should I go to Antigua & Barbuda?

The laid-back culture and relatively slow pace of the islands make them an ideal year-round vacation spot, with plenty of activities to keep you occupied no matter the season.

Unlike other countries in the Caribbean, the most festive time to visit Antigua and Barbuda might be during Carnival season – which happens here in the summer. What’s more, hotel rates are cheaper in late July and August in comparison to the peak hotel-occupancy periods of December through April.

Sunny days on a tropical island can be scorching at times, especially from June to September, which are also the hottest months. For those who prefer sun without extreme heat, October to May might be the best time to work on your tan.

Hurricane season officially runs from mid-August to mid-October, although storms can occur anywhere between June and November. Pay careful attention to the forecast when planning travel during these periods, even during Carnival.

How much time should I spend in Antigua & Barbuda?

Two weeks will allow you to fully indulge in everything the island nation has to offer.

Activities range from exploring the picturesque beaches, to dining at the superb Saltplage Restaurant at the Siboney Bay Beach Club near Dickenson Bay. (Be sure to order the crab cakes topped with pico de gallo and fresh passion-fruit beurre blanc.)

You’ll find plentiful options for fun and adventure, too, from booking a kayaking tour to explore the mangroves with South Coast Horizons; taking a boat tour to discover secluded coves and coastal features, or even circumnavigating all of Antigua; and zip-lining in the forest reserve. Those who crave excitement, can go scuba diving, Jet Skiing and parasailing.

You can also devote a day to discovering the island’s historical landmarks. Similar to other Caribbean territories, Antigua and Barbuda – formerly called Wadadli by its first, Indigenous inhabitants – has a lengthy history of colonization and a diverse cultural heritage.

If you’re interested in learning about the island’s history, the Museum of Antigua & Barbuda in the capital city of St John’s should be your first stop.

Aerial view of cars driving on road beside the turquoise crystal sea, Antigua, Caribbean, West Indies — Renting your own car will give you maximum flexibility for exploring Antigua. Roberto Moiola/Sysaworld/Getty Images

Is it easy to get in and around Antigua & Barbuda?

Despite being the largest of Leeward Islands on which English is spoken, the islands are relatively small, with a total area of 443 sq km (171 sq miles), of which Antigua covers 280 sq km (108 sq miles). This makes getting around quite easy.

We recommend renting your own car on Antigua for maximum ease. At around EC$120 (US$45) per day, a two-week rental will add up, it’s true – but will offer true convenience. (There are a lot of beaches here to explore, remember?) Peak traffic hours are from 8am to 4pm.

If you’re exploring the island on your own schedule, it’s best to avoid the main streets and favor outer roadways that will take you away from the town’s congestion.

Hiring taxi drivers, on the other hand, offers the advantage of a driver with extensive knowledge of the islands. Taxis charge based on the distance and the number of passengers. A short ride might cost around ED$30 (US$11), while a longer trip to a distant location could run ED$75 (US$28).

Since there’s no formal schedule for public transportation, its availability depends entirely on the bus operators’ discretion. Despite its affordability, I wouldn’t recommend it as your sole mode of transportation.

Just 42km (26 miles) north of Antigua, Barbuda can be reached either by a quick 15-minute flight or a 90-minute ferry ride from St John’s. Public transportation is not available in Barbuda due to its small size and centralized nature. Yet taxis and car rentals are readily, especially on the outskirts of Codrington, Barbuda’s sole village.

Top things to do in Antigua & Barbuda

A panoramic view of masted ships and yachts moored at Nelson’s Dockyard National Park, Antigua, Antigua & Barbuda — Nelson’s Dockyard is a historic complex that’s served as a marina continuously since the 18th century. Zoran Karapancev/Shutterstock

Visit Nelson’s Dockyard

A historic site that’s been in continuous use as a marina since the 18th century, Nelson’s Dockyard combines culture, history and range of appealing amenities.

The entire complex, together with nearby archeological sites, have earned UNESCO World Heritage designation.

Once a former British naval base, this remarkably well-preserved Georgian dockyard takes its name from Admiral Horatio Lord Nelson, who, long before his triumph at Trafalgar, was tasked with enforcing British law in Antigua between 1784 and 1787.

Historical objects on display include Nelson’s telescope and tea caddy, as well as cannons now repurposed as bollards for securing ships. The Tartar Bell – which once graced a ship called HMS Tartar – today hangs over the main gate.

Eat fresh seafood

After a day of sightseeing, head to Copper and Lumber Store Hotel (also at Nelson’s Dockyard) – in particular at the end of the week. Seafood Fridays here offer heaps of fresh fish options: shrimp, succulent mussels and more, all prepared with a tantalizing combination of spices and saffron-infused rice. A different featured dish is offered weekly.

Watch the sun set on Shirley Heights

Those who love hiking may want to tackle 302m (1319ft) Boggy Peak (formerly known as Mt Obama), Antigua’s highest point. Yet for those who want to enjoy a similarly expansive hilltop view of the sunset without the effort, 152m (500ft) Shirley Heights is the next best thing.

The views of the turquoise waters of both English Harbor and Falmouth Harbor are a spectacular sight, especially around sunset. And the evening parties that take place at the top, especially on Sundays, are must-attend events – especially after sampling 10-year-old English Harbour rum, a local speciality. Trust me.

Fungee and pepperpot, the national dish of Antigua and Barbuda: a spicy meat soup with cornmeal dumpilngs — Don’t skip a serving of pepperpot and fungee, the national dish. It’s a rich, spicy stew served with cornmeal dumplings. Shutterstock

Dig into the national dish

At any Antiguan eatery, pepperpot and fungee take the spotlight. The former is a rich stew made with fresh greens such as spinach and okra, and enriched with dumplings and meats like pigtails, salted beef and (occasionally) chicken.

Fungee are soft cornmeal dumplings typically eaten with pepperpot, though they can also be served with other dishes, especially fish. For a taste of the real stuff, swing by Joe Mikes Restaurant in the heart of St Johs.

Visit the local vegetable market

Nothing says Saturday mornings like a trip to the market, a beloved tradition in Antigua. The St John’s market offers a vibrant atmosphere in which vendors sell fresh fruits, vegetables, spices and more. Immerse yourself in Antiguan culture by engaging with locals and purchasing a few local trinkets.

Place a bet on a horse race in Barbuda

Experience the excitement of bi-weekly horse racing at Coronation Park on River Rd. The ambience is electric, with a vibrant crowd cheering and wagering on the horses. Numerous food vendors offer a wide range of local delicacies, and there’s lively music and entertainment for children, making it the perfect event for the whole family.

Sample traditional Barbudan cuisine

A traditional Barbudan breakfast includes stewed conch or lobster when in season, saltfish, red herring, corned beef and stewed sausage. (Come hungry!) For a side dish, try chop-up: eggplant, spinach and okra mixed with papaya.

Mashed pumpkin or squash is usually served with boiled egg, fried plantain and bread; fried dumplings; or fritters, either banana- or pumpkin-flavored.

On Saturday mornings in Codrington from 6am until the last fish is sold, three hot-spot street vendors sell roasted yabba dumplings, fritters and an assortment of pan-fried fish. Don’t miss the chance to try the Caribbean cuisine at Uncle Roddy’s in Codrington. Other note-worthy options are The Sage Table and Wa’omoni.

The frigate bird (Fregata magnificens) is the national bird of Antigua & Barbuda — You won’t have a hard time spotting frigate birds in Barbuda, home of the western hemisphere’s largest population. Getty Images

Observe the wildlife at Frigate Bird Sanctuary

A trip to Barbuda is provides the chance to admire Codrington Lagoon’s thriving frigate-bird population – the largest in the western hemisphere. Sharing the sanctuary with the majestic kite-like birds are some 170 migrating species.

You’ll tour the area on a smaller ferry (with 12 passengers maximum); it‘s important to respect the natural habitat of the birds by refraining from touching or feeding them, as well as avoiding the use of drones within the protected area.

My favorite thing to do in Antigua & Barbuda

I always pay a visit to Dawne’s Soleil Kafé in Hodges Bay for an absolutely delicious local menu of creole delights made with fresh produce sourced locally or from neighboring islands.

If you’re a meat lover, try the smoked-meat-and-coconut-milk soup, or the jerk pork stew – and don’t forget the coconut curry goat.

The roasted veggie soup is ideal for vegetarians, while fish lovers can dig into a fried snapper (whole or filet) with sauce soleil. I also highly recommend the chicken breast, filled with spinach and seafood and served alongside a delicious island creole sauce.

For all those beach bums who yearn for a piece of paradise, nothing feels more relaxing than a visit to Runway Beach. Here, you’ll find what seems like an endless stretch of white sand and calm waters, making you want to kick off your sandals and stroll the shore barefoot.

A pile of freshly caught fish at the St John’s Public Fish Market, St John’s, Antigua, Antigua & Barbuda — You won’t find fresher fish than those at the weekly market in St John’s.

How much money do I need for Antigua & Barbuda?

Depending on your choices for accommodation and activities, Antigua can be an expensive destination. All-inclusive resorts run toward the higher end; opting for a smaller boutique hotel offers the flexibility to explore the island and manage your expenses more effectively.

Guest room: starting at EC$400 (US$150) per night
Basic hotel room: EC$600–1000 (US$222–370) per night, depending on the season
Self-catering apartment (including Airbnb): EC$300 (US$111)
Bowl of pepperpot: EC$30 (US$11)
BBQ and fries: EC$17 (US$6.30)
Coffee: EC$10–20 (US$3.70–7.50)
Three-course dinner for two in Barbuda: EC$270 (US$100)
Beer/pint at the bar: EC$6–15 (US$2–5.50)

Note that costs are slightly higher in Barbuda, since everything must be imported from Antigua.

Wildlife and Nature

10 best things to do in Poland

Beyond the headline cities of Warsaw and Kraków, Poland offers abundant and memorable travel experiences.

Into history and culture? This European gem delivers with more castles, churches, palaces and museums than you could imagine. The great outdoors more your bag? Take your pick from Baltic beaches, snowcapped mountains, meandering rivers, thousands of lakes and 23 national parks.

And if you thought that Polish food and drink was all pickles, potatoes and vodka, think again. That culinary trio is the amuse-bouche for a gastronomic buffet ranging from blueberry-filled dumplings to gold-leaf-flaked liquors.

Read on for our selection of the very best experiences in Poland.

Get a bird’s eye view of Warsaw

Warsaw is one of Europe’s most dynamic capitals, and its current economic boom is symbolised by the Varso Tower which, at 310m (1017ft), is the EU’s tallest skyscraper. The Varso’s 240m-high (787ft) observation deck is slated to open in 2025. In the meantime, enjoy the retro vibes of the observation terrace of the 1955 Palace of Culture & Science; the amazing panorama of Warsaw’s reconstructed Old Town from the bell tower of St Anne’s Church; and vistas over the Vistula from the rooftop garden of Warsaw University Library.

Detour: Fabryka Norblina once produced metal goods. It’s now the biggest of Warsaw’s spate of industrial transformations and includes the city’s biggest food hall and lots of other fun places to eat and drink.

A huge ‎1950s skyscraper, the Palace of Culture & Science, is surrounded by modern skyscrapers in Warsaw. — Take in the views across Warsaw from the monumental ‎Palace of Culture & Science © Michal Bednarek / 500px

Time travel beneath Kraków’s Old Town

Kraków’s atmospheric Old Town is centred on Rynek Główny, Europe’s largest public square, which is dominated by the magnificent Cloth Hall. Go beneath the square to Rynek Underground for a subterranean glimpse into the market of six centuries ago, enhanced by 21st-century audiovisual effects.

Back above ground, on the hour, listen for the hejnał (bugle call) emanating from the taller of the two towers of St Mary’s Basilica on the market square’s west side. Inside, Jan Matejko’s polychromatic murals flank the high altar, Poland’s greatest masterpiece of Gothic art.

Detour: The Wieliczka Salt Mine, one of the world’s oldest salt mines, is around 14km (9 miles) southeast of Kraków. It’s a subterranean labyrinth of some 300km (186 miles) of tunnels, lakes and chambers including astonishing chapels with altarpieces, statues, monuments – even chandeliers – all carved out of salt.

Tour Malbork Castle, the world’s biggest brick building

This UNESCO-listed complex is Europe’s largest castle. Begun by the Teutonic Knights in the 13th century, Malbork Castle was the order’s headquarters for almost 150 years. Despite sustaining serious damage during WWII, almost the entire complex has been preserved, and the castle today looks much as it did six centuries ago. Highlights include the Grand Masters’ Palace with its splendid interiors such as the Great Refectory (look out for its remarkable palm-vaulted ceiling), and the Amber Museum.

Planning tips: Avoid queues by purchasing tickets online. Pack a picnic as the dining options at the castle are limited.

A huge red-brick castle with many towers and battlements stands on the bank of a calm river. — UNESCO-listed Malbork Castle is the largest in Europe © ewg3D / Getty Images

Understand the horrors of war at Gdańsk’s Museum of the Second World War

The first shots of WWII were fired in Gdańsk, so it’s fitting that this historic Baltic Sea port is home to the monumental Museum of the Second World War. Occupying a striking piece of contemporary architecture, the 5000-sq-meter (53,819-sq-ft) museum delivers an emotionally powerful history lesson as it charts the causes, progress and aftermath of the 20th century’s biggest conflict – all from a point of view of Poland being a victim.

Planning tips: This is a massive museum that can easily take half a day to see fully. For a break there’s a museum cafe and you can also leave and return the same day using the same ticket.

Learn about Jewish Poland at POLIN Museum of the History of Polish Jews

Another in Poland’s exceptional collection of museums is POLIN, which charts over 1000 years of Jewish history across the nation’s historic territories. The highlight is a dazzling reconstruction of the painted ceiling and bimah (raised central platform for reading the Torah) of the synagogue that once stood in Gwoździec (now part of Ukraine). The section on the Holocaust (1939–45) is appropriately dark and claustrophobic. The exhibition ends with videos of local Jews talking about the continuing specter of anti-Semitism in Poland.

Detour: Warsaw’s Jewish Historical Institute houses the UNESCO-listed Ringelblum Archive, a precious collection of 6000-plus documents, including diaries, drawings, photographs and posters, that provide first-hand accounts about Nazi Germany’s extermination of Jewish communities in Poland.

Many people are looking at the interactive exhibits inside Inside the Museum of the History of Polish Jews (POLIN) — Discover the 1000-year history of Jewish people in Poland at the Museum of the History of Polish Jews (POLIN) © posztos / Shutterstock

Track bison in Białowieża National Park

In the northeast of country, adjoining Belarus, the forests of Białowieża were protected for centuries by royal patronage, first as a private hunting ground for the Polish kings and later for Russian tsars. Today it’s Europe’s largest old-growth forest, and home to some 800 bison. There’s a chance of spotting the continent’s largest mammal and Poland’s national symbol in the wild on an early morning walk among the ancient lime, oak and hornbeam trees – it’s a wonderful opportunity to connect with Polish nature.

Detour: Seven bison live at the European Bison Show Reserve, near the national park. View several other species in large pens here too, including elk, wild boar, deer, a wolf and a three-legged lynx (sadly, the wolf bit off the lynx’s missing leg!).

Encounter Łódź’s abundant street art

The city of Łódź, which grew fabulously wealthy in the late 19th and early 20th centuries through manufacturing, has embraced street art unlike anywhere else in Poland. There are well over 200 public works of art to discover as you walk around, including Pasaż Róży by Joanna Rajkowska, a magical courtyard that’s completely covered with mirror fragments arranged in swirling rose patterns; and Wiedźmin (Witcher), designed by Jakub Rebelka, which is Poland’s tallest piece of street art and covers the 70m-high (230ft) sides of an apartment block.

Detour: Marco Italian Food and Street Art, the cafe at Łódź’s Central Museum of Textiles includes a gallery of images from Urban Forms, the foundation that organises the creation of some of the city’s most impressive pieces of street art.

A colorful mural depicting a man pulling a funny face is painted on the side of a building in Łódź — There are over 200 murals to spot on the streets of Łódź © Bernard Bialorucki / Getty Images

Succumb to the Renaissance charms of Zamość

The beautifully proportioned “Pearl of the Renaissance,” Zamość offers the real deal: an original late-16th-century Old Town centred on a gorgeous arcaded plaza surrounded by Armenian merchants’ residences. The town, in Poland’s southeast corner, is also ringed with defensive bastions that kept the Swedes at bay in the 17th century when they rampaged with ease through other Polish towns.

Detour: The Old Town of Lublin also survived WWII relatively unscathed. Its evocative swirl of legend-filled cobbled lanes and its main square surrounded by Renaissance and baroque townhouses is the prime visitor draw, along with the city’s vibrant festival scene.

Taste gingerbread in Toruń

They’ve been baking and perfecting gingerbread in World Heritage–listed Toruń for centuries. To learn more about this sweet and spicy treat, visit one of town’s two museums devoted to gingerbread. The bigger and better of the two is the Museum of Toruń Gingerbread, housed in the world’s oldest gingerbread bakery. Sign up for one of the museum’s workshops to learn how to make your own gingerbread.

Detour: Gateway to the Great Masurian Lakes, Olsztyn offers an attractive, spruced-up old town and plenty of new hotels, restaurants and bars. Never overwhelmed with tourists, it’s a refreshing slow down before moving on to the usually busier lakeside towns.

A display of decorated gingerbread cookies in the shape of rocking horses, love hearts and houses. — Find out how to make the perfect gingerbread in Toruń © Bob Douglas / Getty Images

Go hiking or skiing in the Tatras

No other area of Poland boasts such a diversity of landscapes as the Tatra Mountains. The most popular area for hiking is the 212-sq-km (82-sq-mile) Tatra National Park, which begins just south of Zakopane, Poland’s most fashionable mountain resort. For a short walk, the densely forested valleys of Dolina Strążyska are lovely. Alternatively strike out for the 1894m (6214ft) summit of Mt Giewont.

When the snow starts to fall, Zakopane’s 50 or so ski lifts and tows crank into action. There’s ski terrain here for everyone, from level cross-country touring to black diamond slopes for hardcore shredders.

Planning tip: Book ahead online for a ticket to visit the Tatra Park Nature Education Centre as numbers are limited to 25 people at a time.

Romance

The honeymoon’s over: our post-wedding trip mix-ups and mishaps

No matter how much time or effort you put into researching your dream honeymoon destinations, planning your newly-wed adventures or packing the perfect shared suitcase, don’t be fooled: honeymoons, just like any other trip, can go wrong.

Our staffers thought their post-wedding plans represented the epitome of romance – but hadn’t anticipated baboon invasions, being mistaken for OAPs or dodgy duck casseroles…

Cinque Terre in the sunshine, Italy. — Cinque Terre in the sunshine – what Dora had been dreaming of witnessing © Javen / Shutterstock

Searching (in vain) for sunshine in Italy

We set off on the train south with smiles, swimwear and our base tans set to biscuit brown. What could be more old-school romantic than a sunny honeymoon on the Italian Riviera? We would slurp spaghetti alle vongole in our own version of Lady and the Tramp and frolic in the Bay of Poets yelling Shelley and Byron to each other over that famously crystalline water.

Sadly, it being April, we were met by dense mist, closed restaurants, grey beaches and a mounting suspicion we’d made a very stupid mistake. As we shivered on loungers the price of the groom’s suit – wrapped in our coats and using our books as windshields – we slowly, dejectedly, gave up on our vision. The sun was not coming out.

Dora Ball – Commissioning Editor. Follow her tweets @DoraWhit.

James and his partner pose in front of Uluru, Australia. — The happy couple before the night from hell © James Kay

Australia: honeymoon heaven or hell?

During the Oz leg of our honeymoon, we joined a tour from Darwin to the Red Centre, which reached a climax at Uluru. Camping near ‘the Rock’ sounded great in principle, but sleeping under the stars in a swag bag got old quickly thanks to the ravenous mosquitoes, which took turns to feast on the only exposed part of our bodies: our faces.

We opted for the alternative accommodation, a sort of shed containing primitive bunks (essentially, metal shelves without mattresses). But the shed had retained, and perhaps raised, the daytime temperature of 36°C, and the mozzies found their way in. Cue a night of sliding around in a slick of sweat, clawing an ever-growing number of bites, to a chorus of howling dingoes. Oh, the romance.

James Kay – Editor, lonelyplanet.com. Follow his tweets @JamesKay123.

Two male lions snooze under a tree in South Africa. — Gemma went on a solomoon to help track lions in the wild © Gemma Graham

Going solo in South Africa

My honeymoon didn’t even get off the ground: with two months to go, my fiancé backed out of our wedding. Understandably, I was devastated, but I figured the best thing I could do would be to take myself on a ‘solomoon’, doing something I’d always dreamed of doing, but had never had the courage to.

I booked flights to South Africa and signed up to volunteer on a conservation project tracking lions in the wild. Conditions were basic and the hours long, but being surrounded by nature in this way helped to put everything in perspective. Prior to this, I hadn’t been further than the Canary Islands, but the trip gave me the travel bug, which ultimately led to me working for Lonely Planet. Mishap? What mishap?

Gemma Graham – Destination Editor, Northern Europe. Follow her tweets @oh_gg.

Imogen and Tom Hall pose in front of the baobab trees in Madagascar. — Feeling perkier, just in time for the baobabs in Madagascar © Imogen Hall

Making memories (good and bad) in Madagascar

With both of us working in travel we really wanted to push the boat out when it came to our honeymoon, so we jumped at the chance to take an organised canoe trip down the Tsiribihina River in Madagascar. For three days we floated along, camping on the banks at night and watching lemurs swing through the trees by day. It was idyllic. Until the last night.

We were used to dinner being a leisurely affair, so we marvelled at how quickly our duck casserole appeared, only for me to have it appear again and again and again for another three days. I eventually surfaced – several pounds lighter – to make it to the incredible baobabs; I still cherish the memory of the canoe trip, just not its spectacularly unromantic end.

Imogen Hall – Lonely Planet’s family travel expert. Follow her tweets @ImogenMaryHall.

A misty rainforest in Australia. — Getting lost in an ancient forest after checking into a hotel for ancient people isn’t ideal © zstock / Shutterstock

Getting the OAP treatment in Australia

We accidentally honeymooned in an old people’s home. Sort of. We’d flown home internationally to wed on the north coast of New South Wales, Australia, and only had a few days for a minimoon, so we headed into the mountains for a rainforest retreat. When we arrived we were surprised that the receptionists were so anxious for us to understand the ‘complicated’ keycard system and for us to join ‘everyone’ for tea and cheese at 4pm. We later realised that the retreat mainly catered to elderly clientele and that there would be betting on the horses in the dining room over dinner.

Giving up on the retreat, we went hiking, only for me to be bitten by a snake (I was fine) and for us to get lost in the mountain mist, surrounded by ghostly wallabies. It was a weird but memorable three days.

Heather Champion – Product Editor. Follow her on Instagram @heathesaurus.

Ben and his new wife pose with an inflatable canoe in Costa Rica. — Three’s a crowd on honeymoon – or at least means no cocktails © Ben Buckner

A bump in the road to Costa Rica

We got married in June but held off until October for our honeymoon in Costa Rica. It was to be a two-part vacation – half high adventure and half complete relaxation. We would start with ziplining, 4WDs, hot springs and more in La Fortuna, then head to an all-inclusive resort on the coast, where we would drink bottomless cocktails on the beach.

But in the four months between the wedding and honeymoon all our plans came unravelled – we got pregnant. Or rather, my wife did. No more zip lines, hot springs or alcohol. We still had an amazing time, including an inflatable kayak river trip and all the rainforest hiking we could ask for. We’ll just have to go back for the zip lines.

Ben Buckner – Destination Editor, USA (West) & Canada. Follow his tweets @BuckPacking.

Not quite the eyes you want gazing at you on a romantic trip… © Tim de Boeck / Shutterstock

A terrifying encounter in Tanzania

The day I was chased out of the Malaysian jungle by monkeys was the day I realised that they’re mean little creatures. On safari in the Serengeti many years later, my husband snapped photos of monkeys while I stayed on my guard. I wasn’t fooled by their playful nature or their silly noises; I was primed, ready for imminent monkey attack.

That evening on the balcony at our lodge, I’d finally started to relax when a massive baboon jumped down from the roof and sat at our table. I screamed, ran inside and hid behind the bar. My poor husband had to explain both the screaming and his missing wife to the staff, whilst calmly dealing with the primate stealing our nuts.

Claire Naylor – Senior Editor. Follow her tweets @RoadTripJones.

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Wildlife and Nature

A first-time guide to Armenia

On Europe’s far eastern flank, Armenia is one of the few remaining countries on the continent where you can truly get off the beaten track. (Think: Albania five years ago.)

Rich in history and culture, this captivating country in the Caucasus is dotted with enchanting stone monasteries, many dating back more than eight centuries. Its growing capital, Yerevan, is packed from (tuff-volcanic-stone) wall to wall with galleries, performance venues and feast-worthy restaurants. And – appropriately for such a mountainous country – there’s ample hiking, too, with plenty of cozy mountain resorts and homestays to spend a few nights.

But the best part about traveling to Armenia is having the opportunity to chat with locals. Their pride and passion for their homeland is fascinating, and they might make you feel like an Armenian yourself.

Here’s everything you need to know before you visit.

Armenia is one of the best countries to visit next year. See our full list of Best in Travel 2025 winners.

A poppy field with mountains in the distance near Jermuk, Vayots Dzor Region, Armenia — Wild poppies dot mountain meadows each spring in Armenia © Emad aljumah / Getty Images

When should I go to Armenia?

Armenia is hopping in summer – though it’s also very hot, with July and August temperatures in Yerevan hovering around 30°C (86°F). Summer is also time for fun festivals like Vardavar (during which locals run around tossing buckets of water at each other – and likely you), and for cooling off in Lake Sevan.

You can avoid the heat by visiting in in May or June, when it’s usually between 10°C (50°F) and 30°C (86°F) in Yerevan. Springtime is also wonderful for hiking across Armenian hilltops and valleys, which are speckled with millions of wildflowers. (Locals brew the flowers into tea or make them into jewelry.) Fall is another wise time to visit since there are fewer crowds and usually pleasant temperatures.

The long winter (November to March) isn’t ideal as many tourist amenities shut down and the temperatures can drop below freezing. If you do find yourself in Armenia at that time, stick to Yerevan, where there are plenty of ways to warm up with a glass of wine. Some great spots include In Vino wine bar and Ulikhanyan Jazz Club.

How much time should I spend in Armenia?

Many people pop over to Armenia after visiting Georgia – it’s a quick and easy trip over the land border to Armenia’s UNESCO-listed monasteries Sanahin and Haghpat. If you’re short on time, fly directly into Yerevan’s Zvartnots Airport, which has lately been welcoming more and more flights from Europe and the Middle East.

If you have time, spend a week or two circling Armenia in a car – the country is slightly smaller than Belgium, so it won’t take too much time.

Landscape shot of the road between the city of Meghri and the Iranian border, Armenia — Having your own car lets you explore the farthest corners of Armenia © Jean-Philippe Tournut / Getty Images

Is it easy to get in and around Armenia?

Armenia is still connected by Soviet-era minibuses called marshrutky, which can be a frustrating mode of travel as they don’t have fixed schedules. Trains, which run between Yerevan and Batumi in Georgia with a few stops along the way, are extremely slow, so aren’t recommended if unless you have ample time.

The best way to stay connected.

Saily provides a hassle-free solution to travel data — just choose your data plan and prepare for your trip. When you get to your destination, you can go online right away.

Get your eSIM

The easiest option to get around Armenia is via car or van tours. You’ll find plenty of operators with reasonable prices around Republic Square in Yerevan.

Yerevan itself is very walkable, and ride-hailing apps GG and Yandex are a common and affordable way to get around (Armenia doesn’t have Uber). Yerevan also has spiffy new city buses and a one-line subway, though you won’t likely need them if you stick to exploring the city center.

If you have time, the best way to explore Armenia is by renting a car from the airport or through an agency in Yerevan. Having your own vehicle will give you the freedom to stop when you want and hike to remote monasteries. There are also a few cool campgrounds for road trippers on a budget, including Crossway Camping, where you can stay in a hippie bus, or Camping 3 Gs, which has epic views.

A hiker looks out at the green hills and valley beyond, Dilijan National Park, Armenia — Hiking is an invigorating way to discover Armenia’s countryside © Dmitriy Gutkovskiy / Shutterstock

Top things to do in Armenia

A visit to Armenia will undoubtedly include a visit to one of its marvelous stone monasteries – after all, Armenia is the world’s first Christian nation. Some of the finest are within a couple of hours from Yerevan, including Noravank, which shines gold at sunset, and Khor Virap, where Surp Gregory the Illuminator was imprisoned before convincing King Tiridates III to declare Armenia Christian in 301. Most monasteries are located in canyons or on mountaintops; explore them on foot with the help of local hiking app HIKEArmenia.

A trip to Armenia’s cities is wonderful if you’re into art and high culture. Yerevan is filled with art galleries dedicated to notable Armenian artists like Sergei Parajanov – one of the world’s great film directors – and performance venues like the grand National Opera and Ballet Theatre. In Armenia’s second city, Gyumri, you can wander around tuff-black-stone buildings and visit the Aslamazyan Museum, which is dedicated to two artist sisters, one of whom many consider Armenia’s Frida Kahlo.

Armenia is a burgeoning wine destination and home to the world’s oldest winery, inside the Areni-1 Cave. You can sip Armenia’s unique areni grape wine among vineyards at Momik Wine Cube.

Or hit the trails. Surrounded by forested paths, Dilijan is a great mountaintop base; you can also hike up Mt Aragats, Armenia’s tallest mountain. If you’re up for a (much) bigger challenge, you can through-hike the Armenian section of the epic Transcaucasian Trail.

An architectural detail from the Cascade Complex, Yerevan, Armenia — The massive Soviet-era Cascade in Yerevan now houses the Cafesjian Center for the Arts © Stefan Cristian Cioata / Getty Images

My favorite thing to do in Armenia

For those who lived through the Soviet days, decaying brutalist stone architecture might be considered a painful reminder of the USSR’s collapse. For me, as a Canadian, exploring abandoned Soviet structures is my favorite thing to do in Armenia.

Yerevan’s Children’s Railway still runs and is fantastic, as is the pyramid-like Cafesjian Center for the Arts (aka the Cascade), which has been reimagined as an amazing art gallery and sculpture garden. Outside the capital, check out the telescopes around Byurakan. There are sometimes tours of the Byurakan Astrophysical Observatory and – depending on the guard’s mood – you have a good shot of visiting the abandoned Radio Optical Observatory 54.

People sit at an outdoor cafe in the evening, Yerevan, Armenia — You’ll find excellent restaurants all over Yerevan © ArtNat / Shutterstock

How much money do I need for Armenia?

Armenia has its own currency, the dram, easily exchanged at money changers in Yerevan or withdrawn from ATM with little or no fees. Credit cards are widely accepted in Yerevan, but not outside the capital.

While Armenia might be cheap by European standards, prices are still higher than many nearby Central Asian countries. The most expensive place is Yerevan, and there are several high-priced resort areas like Dilijan in the north, as well as along the western beaches of Lake Sevan.

If you’re on a budget, try a homestay or B&B – these allow you to connect with locals and often feature the option of learning to make Armenian dishes like gata (cake).

Hostel room: Around 7500AMD (around US$20)
Basic room for two: Starting at 30,000AMD ($80)
Self-catering apartment (including Airbnb): Starting at 20,000AMD ($50)
Public-transport ticket: 300AMD ($1)
Soorch (Armenian coffee): 500–800AMD ($2)
Lahmajun (Armenian flatbread): 500–1500AMD ($2–3)
Dinner for two: Around 7500AMD ($20) and up
Local beer at the bar: 800AMD ($2)

Is Armenia safe?

Tensions have been rumbling with neighboring Azerbaijan since the fall of the Soviet Union, leading to multiple wars and frequent fire across Armenia’s eastern border. In 2023, Azerbaijan seized the disputed territory of Nagorno-Karabakh; discussions of a permanent peace deal remain ongoing. Whether a peace deal is reached or not, Armenia is generally safe to visit, though it’s a good idea to avoid the border areas with Azerbaijan.

A man looks up at a vaulted ceiling at Sanahin Monastery, Armenia — Historic stone monasteries like Sanahin are some of Armenia’s best-known attractions © Justin Foulkes / Lonely Planet

Can you travel between Armenia, Azerbaijan and Türkiye?

You cannot travel by land or air between Armenia and Azerbaijan directly, though you may connect through a third country like Georgia. Flights are available to and from Türkiye; the land border is only open to those who aren’t traveling on Armenian or Turkish passports.

Land borders are open with Georgia and Iran, but be sure to carefully research visa requirements if thinking about a trip to the latter.

How much English is spoken in Armenia?

Since the principal languages spoken are Armenian and Russian, fluent English is rare in Armenia, Yet don’t be discouraged. You should be fine with English in Yerevan, and Armenians are famous for making themselves understood using any means possible, including their hands.

Candles and a religious icon in Saint Sarkis Cathedral, Yerevan, Armenia — Be sure to show respect by covering up in Armenia’s beautiful churches © Barney.DC / Shutterstock

Do I have to cover up?

Due to their Christian Orthodox faith, Armenians tend to dress more conservatively and show less skin than in Western Europe. But things are starting to change, due in large part to the influx of liberal Russians fleeing the war with Ukraine. Nevertheless, it’s still a good idea to dress respectfully, especially when entering a church.

Romance

Big Little Lies filming locations in Monterey you won’t want to miss

For lovers of the Big Little Lies TV series it is not just the incredible relationships forged by Madeline, Renata, Bonnie, Celeste and Jane that keep viewers coming back for more. It is also the epic setting and sweeping shots of Monterey, Big Sur and Carmel-by-the-Sea that feature nearly as prominently as the amazing Monterey 5 and make us drool with travel lust.

The Bixby Bridge with some fog and the ocean is a filming location in Big Little Lies — The Bixby Bridge makes constant cameos in Big Little Lies, with good reason © Irina88w / Getty Images

So where can fans go to see these amazing places? Read on to find out.

A view of wharf buildings on stilts with a reflection in the water that served as a Big Little Lies filming location in Monterey — Old Fisherman’s Wharf in Monterey oozes with ambiance and was a popular backdrop for many a Madeline and Celeste gossip session © S. Greg Panosian / Getty Images

Old Fisherman’s Wharf

In the first season of Big Little Lies Jane, Madeline and Celeste often bonded at the fictional Blues Blues cafe. While Blues Blues may not exist, Paluca Trattoria does. Located on the atmospheric Old Fisherman’s Wharf which houses shops and local seafood markets, Paluca was the inspiration for the Blues Blues set in the show.

But there are other amazing cafe’s and restaurants to try in the area too, we like the Alvarado Street Brewery for excellent craft beer and superior bar food.

Monterey Bay Aquarium

In the second season Big Little Lies be sure to keep a look out for the Monterey Bay Aquarium (it also made a cameo in the first season). Considered one of the best aquariums in the world, a visit here is one of Monterey’s most mesmerizing experiences. The three-story kelp forest tank holds 2000 gallons of water and is a meticulous reproduction of the natural conditions just outside.

Plan to spend a good part of the day appreciating all the amazing creatures that fill our oceans. The jellyfish are nothing short of amazing.

a boardwalk between two California cypress trees deadends into the beach a perfect spot for a run like Jane in Big Little Lies filmed in Monterey — Monterey State Beach is as stunning as it is accessible, perfect for Jane-like runs and fun in the sun © S. Goodwin4813 / Getty Images

Del Monte Beach

No one knows if Jane is still going to need to run out her feels in the second season (all signs point to yes), but in the first season she spent a lot of time on Del Monte Beach. This picturesque beach is part of Monterey State beach and is a popular surfing spot.

There are even fire pits available for sunset s’more making (and if you don’t know what you’re missing with s’mores – check it out).

Colton Hall

One huge plot point from Season 1 of Big Little Lies was Madeline’s dedication to the production of Avenue Q. When Madeline’s neighbors got together to debate the controversial show, it was done at Colton Hall. A longtime landmark in the city of Monterey, this is where California’s first constitutional convention took place in 1849.

If California history is your thing you might check out the Custom House, where the US flag first flew formally declaring that California was annexed from Mexico.

Waves crash on a rocky shore with the sun rising over cypress trees and a rocky peninsula — Lover’s Point in Pacific Grove is a great place to catch a sunset or have a picnic © Mitch Tobias / Getty Images

Lover’s Point Park in Pacific Grove

Admittedly, romantic relationships in Big Little Lies are problematic and maybe its ironic, but Lover’s Point made appearances in a few episodes during the first season and we’ll keep an eye out for more in season 2. The charming village of Pacific Grove is just a little outside Monterey and Lover’s Point Park is the perfect place to enjoy a picnic and a view. We suggest grabbing a Thai lunch box from Zab Zab in Monterey before heading north just a few minutes.

After your picnic head to the Monarch Grove Sanctuary where thousands of migratory butterflies gather between November and February.

Garrapata State Park

This writer spends a lot of time, while watching Big Little Lies, trying to figure out where the Monterey 5 actually live. They are constantly driving on Bixby Bridge into and out of Big Sur and hanging out at Garrapata State Park. Trust me, I would too if I lived anywhere close to these epic landmarks. If you’re looking for the views of steep cliffs, crashing waves and misty shorelines that Big Little Lies is riddled with you’ll find them here.

Fancy a weekend in Big Sur? Find out how here.

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