Archives August 2022

In Montevideo, a sophisticated city can’t escape the influence of the rural campo (countryside). The result is a metropolitan center with an irresistibly not-so-fast-paced urban pulse.

Once a fortified citadel, the Ciudad Vieja (old city) is today surrounded by traces of the city walls, first erected in 1741. Beyond this historic core, visitors can stroll the longest continuous sidewalk in the world, relax on sandy beaches, gorge themselves in one of South America’s best food cities, visit countless museums or sway to carnaval rhythms year-round.

Here’s our guide to the top things to do in the Uruguayan capital.

1. Cycle, rollerblade or stroll the Rambla

At nearly 14 miles (23km), Montevideo’s riverfront Rambla is the longest continuous sidewalk in the world. The avenue snakes along the coast and is popular for cycling and rollerblading. And for sipping yerba maté, too.

This traditional Indigenous drink was first cultivated by the Guaraní in Paraguay, then popularized as a shared communal drink by the Charrúa in Uruguay. Many Uruguayans always carry their kit with them, which includes the yerba (loose caffeinated tea leaves), a mate (the cup, traditionally a gourd), bombilla (perforated spoon-like straw) and thermo (hot-water bottle).

Take your maté and go for a stroll on the Rambla around sunset. You’ll pass by a skate park, the moving Holocaust Memorial, Pittamiglio Castle and plenty of street musicians.

Local tip: It’s customary in Uruguay to share your yerba maté with complete strangers. Since this isn’t particularly sanitary, we recommend buying your own kit, available at any grocery store.

2. Visit Museo de la Memoria

As a complement to sunny beach days, the Museo de la Memoria, open since 2007, offers insights and context into the country’s 12-year civic-military dictatorship (1973–85). The site also honors the 200 Uruguayans who were “disappeared” during the junta (the Desaparecidos), and who are still unaccounted for.

A permanent exhibition featuring pots and pans looks inconspicuous at first. Yet visitors learn that during this era, Uruguayans used these simple kitchen implements as tools of dissent. Protesting the state-sanctioned killing of civilians, residents would bang these objects loudly during events known as cacerolazos – creating chaotic noise that resounded through the halls of power.

3. Experience carnaval year-round

If you visit Uruguay between the end of January and early March, you can take part in the longest carnaval celebration in the world: Uruguayans celebrate for 40 to 50 days in the lead-up to Easter. The festivities are a huge draw for locals, though foreign visitors are most welcome.

The tradition of carnaval was brought to Uruguay by enslaved Africans. Their descendants introduced candombe drums, a large percussion instrument that’s worn on the body and played as the performer walks in the street.

Candombe is the heartbeat of Uruguay and was designated a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2009. During carnaval, candombe is part of nearly every performance, with groups painting and decorating their drums to match the colors of the bedazzled lingerie and feathers worn by the dancers.

To kick off the celebrations, the Inaugural Parade takes place at the end of January, at which candombe drummers parade with dancers along central Avenida 18 de Julio. The following night is usually the Samba Schools Parade, where performers dressed in colorful carnaval garb dance through the street. In February, the Las Llamadas parade features candombe drummers performing as they walk the streets of the Afro-Uruguayan neighborhoods of Barrio Sur and Palermo.

Between parade dates, you can visit one of the many tablados (stages set around the city), which play host to frequent performances by satirical singing groups called murga, who wear face paint and clown-like costumes.

If you can’t make it for the festivities, get a taste of the celebrations at the Museo del Carnaval, which exhibits costumes, drums and videos of performances. Additionally, candombe groups practice year-round – and even without the colorful costumes and fanfare, they still offer rafter-raising sounds.

Each neighborhood has a group that typically rehearses once a week on the streets in preparation for the annual Competition of Carnaval Groups. Every Sunday in the late afternoon, for example, drummers gather in Barrio Sur to play candombe – and anyone is welcome to join in. Simply follow the sound of the drums to find the group.

Local tip: Unfortunately, since pickpocketing is prevalent at these gatherings, you should keep an eye on your personal belongings.

4. Load your plate with grass-fed beef

Uruguay is known across the world for its superb grass-fed beef. (Statistics help explain why: there are at least three sheep and three cows per Uruguayan citizen.) This richness underlies a sacrosanct Uruguayan tradition: the weekly asado, when friends and family gather for a feast of different cuts of grilled meat served along with vegetables.

If you don’t manage to score an invite, you can still have a traditional parrilla dinner experience at García, a popular restaurant that’s served premium cuts of meat paired with curated local and international wines since 1967. The elegant dining room is a favorite for Uruguayans celebrating a special occasion.

Local tip: The well-known Mercado del Puerto has, alas, lost its charm and is today an overrated tourist trap. Instead, head to Casa Pastora, Mercado Williman and Mercado Ferrando, which all have food stalls serving parrillas.

5. Cheer on your favorite soccer team

The first World Cup was held in Uruguay in 1930 at Estadio Centenario – and the Uruguayan squad (naturally) won the title. Today, the two most prominent teams in fútbol-mad Montevideo are Peñarol and Nacional. The former dons yellow and black and plays at the Campeón del Siglo stadium, while the latter wears red, white and blue and calls Gran Parque Central stadium home.

Choose a team to support – then catch a match during the Uruguayan Primera División season, which lasts from May to December. If there isn’t a game while you’re in town, you can learn more about Uruguayan soccer at the Museo del Fútbol.

6. Enjoy sand and surf on Montevideo’s beaches

Surrounded by the wide Río de la Plata, Montevideo is a rare capital that’s also a beach town through and through. The most popular beach in town is Playa de Los Pocitos, which offers soft sand and volleyball courts.

This true city beach is framed by the waterfront buildings of the namesake Pocitos neighborhood. In the summer months, you’ll see scads of umbrellas that protect from Uruguay’s notoriously high UV rays (which can reach as high as 11).

Local tip: The beaches are small and get busy on the weekend, so plan your beach day during the week to avoid crowds.

8. Head east to Punta del Este

Once you’ve gotten to know the capital, take a direct bus from the Tres Cruces terminal to Punta del Este on the Atlantic coast.

Here, you can relax at Playa Brava by the famous La Mano en la Arena sculpture, watching surfers at Playa el Emir or catching the sunset while enjoying a pitcher of clericó (white-wine sangria) from Parador I’marangatú.

Planning tip: Add a day trip to your day trip by heading from Punta del Este to places like the Punta Ballena whale lookout point, the Fundación Pablo Atchugarry sculpture garden and the Arboretum Lussich.

Hovering just off the coast of Southern California are a string of under-explored islands that offer a peaceful escape from the noise and hubbub of the mainland. If you fancy camping in serene scenery in front of epic sunsets, look no further than California’s Channel Islands.

The eight Channel Islands earn every bit of their ‘North America’s Galapagos’ nickname – more than 150 endemic species of plants and animals are tucked onto these specks of land scattered across the bay between Santa Barbara and San Diego.

For nearly 13,000 years, these islands have stayed largely aloof from domestication, and even from tourism, with one notable exception. This is all rather surprising given that the isles lie within sight of one of the most densely populated parts of the US.

While the island of Santa Catalina is fairly well-known and developed, the other Channel Islands are still wonderfully unspoiled. And while a visit is not as easy as say, a trip to Disneyland, you can have a meaningful experience even on a short day trip from a Southern California harbor.

Here’s how to experience each of the eight islands, starting with the five islands protected as the Channel Islands National Park.

Channel Islands National Park

While the Channel Islands archipelago stretches from Santa Barbara County all the way south to the fringes of San Diego, the five national park islands are more tightly grouped off the shore near Ventura. The National Park Service (NPS) keeps the human impact on these hilly islands to a bare minimum to preserve their raw and natural character.

The islands are mostly treeless with little cover from the near-constant winds, but the wildflowers in spring are superb, as is the hiking year-round. Rangers and volunteers run guided hikes timed to meet some, but not all, boat trips – the NPS operates visitor centers in Santa Barbara and Ventura where you can make inquiries.

Each of the islands has a small, primitive campground with pit toilets and not much else. Everything has to be packed in and out, including water (unless you are staying at the sites on Santa Cruz or Santa Rosa). Make camping reservations with the NPS in advance to secure a spot.

Island Packers runs boat services to the park from Ventura Harbor and nearby Oxnard, and you can take day trips most days to Anacapa and Santa Cruz islands. Boats run less often to Santa Rosa and San Miguel and there are currently no boats to Santa Barbara (though services may resume once the jetty is repaired). Other ways to reach the islands include private boat charters and multi-day cruises, some focusing on diving in the rich and pristine waters of the national park.

If you’re camping, consider bringing along TC Boyle’s 2011 book When the Killing’s Done – part murder-mystery, part environmental parable about an eccentric man’s efforts to prevent the NPS from clearing invasive pigs and rats from the Channel Islands. It was inspired by the ongoing and controversial efforts to remove non-native species introduced by past settlers, which now threaten the fragile environment and endemic species.

Note that from June to November, the Santa Barbara Channel is home to the largest population of blue whales in the world outside of Antarctica. Trips to the islands during these months often include time for whale-spotting. Other whale species spotted here include humpbacks, grey, fin, and minke whales, dolphins and orcas.

Santa Cruz

Best for active day trips for hiking and kayaking

At 96 sq miles, Santa Cruz is the largest and most varied of the Channel Islands. With two rugged mountain ranges – including 2450ft Mt Diablo, the park’s tallest peak – and a picturesque central valley, plus 77 miles of coastal cliffs and abundant native plant and animal life, it’s a beacon for hikers and campers.

Wildlife spotters may encounter its two best-known inhabitants, the scrub jay and the island fox. While distinct subspecies of this charmingly fearless diminutive fox species are found on six of the Channel Islands, the monogamous scrub jay lives only on Santa Cruz.

The NPS website details the island’s 10,000-year history of human settlement, and there are upwards of 3000 archaeological sites. Look for collections of broken shells lying on the ground away from the ocean for evidence of ancient human activity.

Top Tip: Take a water-based excursion to view the painted cave, a sea cave with striking colors created by algae, lichen and different rock types.

Getting there: There are two landing spots on Santa Cruz: Scorpion and Prisoners Harbor. Scorpion is the main landing site and it takes a little over an hour to get here from Ventura. There are normally several boats daily.

Camping: Reserve the camping site at Scorpion Canyon well in advance via the NPS; this is a popular island and spaces fill up quickly in season. Potable water is available.

Anacapa

Best for easy day trips with stunning views

Fittingly named Anayapax, meaning ‘illusion’ or ‘mirage’ in the language of the Chumash, the island’s original inhabitants, Anacapa is actually a three-islet sliver of land lying 11 miles from the mainland. Wildflowers abound and ground-nesting western gulls greet spring and summer visitors. Their eggs and chicks are safe because Anacapa is naturally predator-free.

Easy year-round hikes lead to a stolid 1932 lighthouse and mind-boggling westward and mainland views. Keep an eye out for sightings of the endemic Anacapa deer mouse and Channel Island slender salamander.

Top Tip: Look for abalone shells left by the Chumash people up to 5000 years ago.

Getting there: Boat trips taking one-hour leave most days from Oxnard on the mainland.

Camping: The campsites are a half-mile climb up 157 stairs from the boat landing site, and you’ll need to bring water.

San Miguel

Best for observing seals and sea lions

Known for being wind-swept, foggy and cold, San Miguel is at its best on sunny summer days, when the island’s 30,000 pinnipeds – including northern elephant seals, California sea lions, northern fur seals and harbor seals – haul up on the shores. You can see tons (literally!) of them lounging around at Point Bennett, reached via a 16-mile ranger-led hike.

Along the way, you’ll pass the ghostly Caliche Forest, composed of calcium carbonate casts of roots formed around 14,000 years ago. Keep an eye out for endemic flora such as giant coreopsis, poppies, dudleya, locoweed and buckwheat. Native species are making a comeback since the removal of non-native grazing animals such as voracious goats and other feral livestock.

Top Tip: San Miguel has the toughest weather of all the Channel Islands – 30mph winds are typical, so bring appropriate clothing.

Getting there: It takes around 3½ hours to reach San Miguel from Ventura and there are only two dedicated day trip services each year. Boats for campers run two to three times per week but only during certain months (see the Island Packers website for details). There is no pier, so expect to get wet getting to shore.

Camping: The San Miguel campsites are a steep 1¼-mile hike from the beach landing site, and you must bring your own water.

Santa Rosa Island

Best for beach fun and hiking to see spring wildflowers

Set out on one of the trails crossing 84-square-mile Santa Rosa Island and imagine how it must have felt to be the archaeologist who discovered 13,000-year-old human bones here — the oldest human remains ever found in North America. This part of America looked very different at the time; if you scour the eroding cliffs, you may find evidence of extinct pygmy mammoths.

For more recent history, you can visit bunkhouses, corrals and ranch houses located near the pier – a reminder of the days when livestock still grazed this former cattle ranch and the island was used as a big game hunting park.

Nature has bounced back impressively and you can search for Channel Island natives such as the cute (and potentially stinky) island spotted skunk, the non-venomous dwarf island gopher snake, and the island fence lizard. Take time to explore the grove of Santa Rosa Island Torrey Pines — the world’s rarest pine tree, and a relic from an ancient Pleistocene-era forest. These gnarled survivors grow to about 50 feet tall.

Top Tip: Don’t miss the hike along Water Canyon Beach, a spectacular and nearly deserted two-mile strip of white sand directly south of the landing pier.

Getting there: It’s a 2- to 3-hour boat ride to the island from Ventura. The service for campers runs a couple of times per week, and there are infrequent day trips.

Camping: The campsite is a flat 1½-mile walk from the pier and there’s potable water.

Santa Barbara Island

Best for spotting sea birds and solitude

One-square-mile Santa Barbara Island is the smallest Channel Island and the least visited island in the national park, seen by fewer than 750 people annually. This means visitors can enjoy its five miles of rolling trails in near solitude.

Circumnavigate this steep-sided isle for sightings of pinnipeds and the islands’ three endemic subspecies of land birds, or head up 634ft Signal Peak for stunning views of Sutil Island – and a chance of spotting a resting peregrine falcon.

The island is a critically important nesting ground for at least 11 species of seabirds, with one of the world’s largest congregations of Scripps’s murrelets. Sharp-eyed springtime visitors can spy young California brown pelicans, western gulls and multiple species of cormorants and storm petrels. Tropical brown boobies have started making regular appearances too, and have hatched at least one chick on Sutil.

Top Tip: This is an island for those who really want solitude – contemplate the splendid isolation at the north end of the island, where a lonely rock arch juts into the bay.

Getting there: Severe storm damage to the island’s wooden dock means that there is currently no scheduled service to the island, although you may be able to charter a boat and land on a rocky ledge. Check in with Island Packers to see when scheduled boat services are set to resume.

Camping: The campground is reached via a 200ft walking path from the landing point, and you may have to shoo away some lounging sea lions to get there. You’ve been warned!

Non-National Park Channel Islands​

There are more islands beyond the national park boundaries. Santa Catalina is a busy vacation spot, and nearby are San Nicolas and San Clemente, which you can only view from the water on boat trips.

Santa Catalina

Best for creature comforts and bison!

From 1911 onwards, Hollywood stars started flocking to Catalina Island for sportfishing and expensive nights out at the red-roofed art deco casino at Avalon, occasionally leaving behind movie extras, including a herd of live bison. Now stars in their own right, the bison still wander the hillsides, delighting visitors who chance across them.

Sporty types love Avalon for its outdoor activities, city-center beach, dining and lodging options, and sporting history. Baseball fans can visit the site of the original Wrigley Field, where the Chicago Cubs trained for 30 years from 1921 to 1951 (with a gap during WWII). It’s now a public golf course.

On the narrow isthmus that almost divides the island in two, the village of Two Harbors offers the opportunity to get away from the Avalon bustle and camp in relative peace and quiet.

Top Tip: Rent a golf cart to get around, instead of a car; this isn’t an island where you need to rush.

Getting there: Fast and slow ferries run daily from Long Beach, Dana Point and San Pedro. The glitterati opt for pricey helicopter transfers.

Where to stay: There are many options on Catalina, from upscale hotels to less expensive B&Bs. Camping is possible in Avalon and Two Harbors.

San Nicolas and San Clemente Islands

Best for diving

The public is barred from landing on these US naval base islands, but scuba diving, boating and swimming in approved waters are okay and many boat trips run out here from the mainland. Before becoming a launch platform for missile testing, San Nic was home to the ‘Lone Woman of San Nicolas Island,’ the last Native American to live on the islands and the inspiration for Karana, the heroine of Scott O’Dell’s Newbury-award-winning novel, Island of the Blue Dolphins.

San Clemente is the southernmost Channel Island, and it’s an important elephant seal rookery. This is also the spot where human Navy SEALs train for missions, such as the raid against Osma Bin Laden’s compound in Pakistan, for which a replica was built on the island. It’s also a naval ship-to-shore firing range.

Getting there: The only way for civilians to visit is on scuba diving, fishing and boating trips arranged through commercial operators on the mainland.

Portions of this article appear in Corinne Heyning Laverty’s book, North America’s Galapagos: The Historic Channel Islands Biological Survey. University of Utah Press, December 2019

Where do you go if you want to experience Spain like a local? We tapped our experts in Spain to show us the places where they love to go on vacation there, ranging from slow-traveling around the vineyards and villages of Catalonia with their traditional artisan cultures, to escaping the heat in Asturias and discovering the more laid-back side of Ibiza with its pristine beaches and quiet coves.

1. Tarifa, Andalucía

Isabella Noble grew up in Málaga and now splits her time between Andalucía and Barcelona

Why Tarifa?

My family stumbled across laid-back, surf-loving Tarifa in the 1990s, and I still escape here every year, whether for a few beachy days in early September (bliss) or working remotely during low season. On the southernmost tip of mainland Europe, in Cádiz province, Tarifa is one of Andalucía’s most magical coastal towns, with miles of wild golden-white beaches, a relaxed vibe and views of neighboring Morocco across the Strait of Gibraltar.

Must-do activity

Cádiz’s Atlantic-washed Costa de la Luz has been popular with Spaniards for years, and Tarifa has a special edge thanks to its lively kitesurfing and windsurfing scene. The entire undeveloped coast stretching northwest from Tarifa is a protected parque natural, and even when things get busy in summer, there are plenty of hidden corners. I love the coastal walk past natural sea pools from tiny Bolonia’s Roman ruins to Punta Paloma dune. Or the hike to secluded El Cañuelo beach – a pine-fringed, back-to-nature paradise where there’s often no one else around.

Tarifa tips

I usually stay at one of the small, independent boutique hotels in Tarifa’s meandering old town; The Riad is a stylishly converted 17th-century home with creative Moroccan-Andalucian design, while Hostal África has boho-cool rooms and rooftop yoga. You’re spoiled for choice with Tarifa’s lively international-influenced food scene; I often grab a fruit-and-yogurt breakfast bowl at Morocco-inspired Café Azul, and later stop for tapas (just-cooked tortilla, payoyo goat’s cheese) on the terrace at El Lola, which also serves local sherries and Cádiz wines.

2. Priorat, Catalonia

Joan Torres is a writer from Barcelona who loves getting off the beaten track

Why Priorat?

In the heart of rural Catalonia, Priorat is an off-the-beaten-track region where visitors can learn about traditional wine making. Many consider the wines produced in Priorat to be the most sophisticated in all of Spain (with prices to match).

Must-do activity

Dotted with several medieval villages, Priorat is best visited on your own wheels, road-tripping from village to village, and cellar to cellar. Álvaro Palacios and Mas Doix are some of the most popular – yet you shouldn’t miss lesser-known, smaller-batch wineries such as Hericamps, which produces no more than 5000 bottles a year. Porrera, Gratallops, Siurana and Falset are all beautiful villages packed with cellars, where you can also find accommodations fitting for every wallet, ranging from budget hostels to luxury boutique hotels within the wineries.

Priorat tips

When it comes to food, La Cooperativa de Porrera is one of the best restaurants in the region for authentic Catalan food, while Brichs, located in Falset, is the place to satisfy more demanding gourmets looking for a more modern version of the local cuisine.

3. Sant Josep de sa Talaia, Ibiza

Natalia Diaz lives in Madrid and loves writing about food, travel and culture

Why Sant Josep de sa Talaia?

Ibiza is well known as the unrivaled party capital of Europe – yet this is just a tiny sliver of the story of this Mediterranean paradise. Beyond the strobe lights and glamorous nightclubs, the Balearic island has a serene side that’s perfect for those who prefer a more laid-back and nature-oriented experience.

Must-do activity

Drive around to explore Ibiza’s breathtaking natural beauty, from its numerous calas (coves) and majestic cliffs, to its white sand coastlines embraced by clear sapphire waters. Sa Caleta (Es Bol Nou) beach hosts the ancient ruins of the first Phoenician settlement in Ibiza, a Unesco World Heritage Site atop a cliff with panoramic views of the Balearic Sea.

Sant Josep de sa Talaia tips

When I go to Ibiza, I prefer staying at a short-term rental in Sant Josep de sa Talaia, on the western side of the island. (If you’re a big group, you can even rent out an entire villa). Sant Josep offers a perfect mix of rugged natural beauty, chill-out bars and quiet coves, including Cala Comte, Cala d’Hort and Port des Torrent. Es Boldado on Cala d’Hort is hands down my favorite restaurant on the entire island – I can stay here all day dining on fresh seafood and traditional ibicenco cuisine and sipping premium Spanish wines, while enjoying its main feature: a spectacular view of mythical Es Vedrà island, believed to be the tip of Atlantis and legendary home to sirens, sea nymphs and even UFOs.

4. Somiedo, Asturias

Paula Sánchez Iglesias and Daniel Del Río Espina are from Avilés and run the Spanish travel blog, Hacemoslasmaletas

Why Somiedo?

In the lush valleys, lakes and mountains of Asturias in northern Spain lies Parque Natural de Somiedo, a Unesco Biosphere Reserve offering a refreshing escape from the summer heat. Situated in the Cantabrian Mountains, Somiedo is a hiker’s paradise that offers breathtaking views of glacial lakes, limestone peaks and beech forests. You’ll also see brañas, traditional cattle-herding settlements with clusters of tietos (thatched cottages). Two of the best hiking routes in the area are El Valle del Lago and Los Lagos de Saliencia.

Must-do activity

This rural paradise is also the habitat of the largest group of brown bears in Western Europe, with around 280 individuals freely roaming the western half of the range. Bear watching is a popular activity here – though we recommend doing this with a local guide so you can learn about conservation efforts. Wolves, wildcats, chamois and red deer can also be found here, along with the possibility of spotting griffon vultures, golden eagles or capercaillies (colorful fowl).

Somiedo tips

Stay in the village of Pola de Somiedo, where you’ll find a range of hotels, homestays and B&Bs. Come meal time, you should book a table at the family-run El D’Iban in the nearby village of Braña de la Peral. Another great dining option, particularly during the colder months, is Sidreria Carion, where you can savor the region’s famous cider, along with hearty dishes like Asturian fabada (a bean stew) or cachopo, a filling dish featuring two large veal or beef escalopes filled with ham and cheese, coated in breadcrumbs and served with locally sourced ingredients. Delicious.

That Indonesia has beautiful beaches is no secret.

But a few of them offer even more: some of the most varied coral life in the world, a taste of local cultures and practices and a sense of stillness not found on more mainstream beaches. Getting to them might mean traveling a considerable distance, but once there, they pay back in spades.

1. Misool, Raja Ampat, Southwest Papua

Best beach for snorkelers and divers

While the beaches in Misool promise white sands, green palms and turquoise waters, its real allure is in what really under those waters.

Shaped like the head of an arrow, it sits on the crossroad of the Ceram Trough and Indonesian Throughflow currents, so nutrient rich that they nurture some of the healthiest and most productive reefs of the planet. For divers and snorkelers, it is an underwater festival with an unforgettable marine topography. Most dive sites are coral reefs with wall diving, swim-throughs, overhangs and drop offs, plus a viewing menu comprising every species of pygmy seahorse, manta ray, reef shark, whale, blue-ringed octopus, gigantic Queensland grouper and dolphin, to name a few. You will need one thick dive log book to document all your encounters underwater here.

You can also swim with thousands of non-stinging jellyfish at the Jellyfish Lake, explore prehistoric rock art or hop from one islet to another on your pinisi (schooner).

Planning tip: Travel to Missol does not come cheap. Don’t visit in July and August when waves are too big and dangerous to brave.

2. Ratenggaro Beach, Sumba, East Nusa Tenggara

Best beach for a cultural experience

Sumba – about three islands away from Bali in Indonesia’s remote East Nusa Tenggara province – is quickly becoming the next big thing in the travel world. Many who holiday in this breathtaking haven head to NIHI Sumba, an intimate, uber luxury resort, leaving the rest of Sumba for locals and some discerning surfers. If you are looking for a secluded, no-frills stretch of pearly white sand, Ratenggaro is perfect; however, it’s even better if you seek company at the village fringing the beach. Here you will receive a warm welcome from locals and get a chance to immerse yourself in a culture that is unique to this island.

Witness the mysticism, tradition and ancestral beliefs that Sumbanese practice to this day. The Ratenggaro experience includes chicken and pigs sacrifices to appease the spirits and ensure a good harvest; village architecture designed to house spirits in the tall roofs; and horseback spear-fighting festivals – called Pasola colloquially. Horses are as much a part of this island as buffaloes: both used to help with irrigation of the land and add to the rural vignette of this remote island.

Detour: Surfers won’t find what they’re looking for at Ratenggaro unfortunately. But while on Sumba, don’t miss riding the “Miller’s Right” wave at Pantai Tarimbang. The 5-hour bumpy ride from Ratenggaro may shake your insides, but you’ll be pleased you went before the rest of the world descends on it.

3. Gigi Hiu Beach, Lampung Province, Sumatra

Best beach for landscape photography

Gigi Hiu, or “shark teeth,” may not be a recreational beach in the conventional sense, but for a landscape photographer, the raw beauty of this place is worth hours on its shore. The view across the beach is filled with serrated rock formations that have been carved by sea water for millions of years to resemble shark’s teeth. Rising up to perpetually blue skies against the azure waters of the Indian Ocean, these formations allow for stunning long-exposure photography.

While sunrise is most coveted, with the rays giving an ochre hue to the rocks and the waves reflecting light from the sun, nighttime has its own charm. With no light pollution, this beach is becoming a popular and photogenic destination to capture the Milky Way. That it is remote and difficult to reach should be kept in mind. For those who persevere, there is a pot of gold at the end of the rainbow.

Planning tip: Gigi Hiu is located 5km (3 miles) from Kiluan Bay, located in Kiluan Village, which is also where you will drop anchor in one of its handful of homesteads. The beaches on the bay nurture two species of sea turtles, the green sea turtle and the hawksbill turtle, that are often seen swimming subsurface in the Bay’s transparent waters. A 20-minute boat ride can also take you close to the dolphins dancing in open waters with wild abandon.

4. Lengkuas Beach, Belitung, Sumatra

Best beach for families

You don’t always have to trek to far-flung locales to experience secluded, turquoise-trimmed, white-sand beaches in Indonesia. Some are surprisingly easy to get to from Jakarta and yet guarantee solitude. The island of Belitung has been a local “hero” ever since the Indonesian top grossing film Laskar Pelangi (2008), adapted from a book written by Belitung-born Andrea Hirata, was shot here. Mercifully, it didn’t do what Eat Pray Love (2010) did to Bali, and Belitung beaches remain untouched.

Lengkuas is a boat ride away from Tanjung Pandan (where direct flights from Jakarta land) and has pristine white sand, palms, calm greenish-blue waters and gentle waves washing over the contrasting granite rocks indigenous to Indonesia’s Java Sea. Adding to its charm is an operational 19th-century lighthouse built by the Dutch, guiding the passing ships and offering gorgeous bird’s-eye views. It would be a pity if you didn’t hire a boat and explore other parts of Belitung – especially the Tanjung Tinggi beach where the movie was filmed. Even better: read the original book and truly soak in the resilient spirit of the group of 10 school children the story is based on while you experience the “film set.”

Detour: Manggar City in East Belitung – a 2–3-hour trip by road from Tanjung Pandan – is known for its coffee culture. Locals fill the coffee shops, socializing, playing chess and discussing politics and life. Taking in this vibe as well as some good Indonesian coffee is an interesting detour from the usual beach activities.

5. Ngurtavur Beach, Southeast Maluku Regency

Best beach for keen bird-watchers

If you visit Ngurtavur in the morning – which you must, to see it in its full glory – yours may well be the first footsteps of the day to leave a mark on this sandbar’s ivory sands. But maybe not if you visit during the peak summer season, when the quiet of island is broken by the grunts of hundreds of pelicans who pause here as they migrate through Indonesia from Papua New Guinea and Australia.

Ngurtavur is a 2km-long (1.2-miles) and 7m-wide (23ft) unadulterated stretch of white sand that juts out from Warbal island into the sea. With a beachful of pelicans, it is perfect for hardcore birders, but you don’t have to be a bird-watcher to soak in the beauty of this beach. The crystal clear azure waters are perfect for swimming or snorkeling. Look out for pygmy seahorses, nudibranchs and almost 250 species of reef-building coral. During high tide, when the sandbar gets cut off from the main beach, some elongated parts of it are only 2cm (0.8in) submerged. When walking on them, it’s almost like walking on water in the middle of the Banda Sea.

Planning tip: There are no accommodations available on Ngurtavur Beach. You can either opt for a homestay at the Ngurbloat (Pasir Panjang) Beach or a hotel in Langgur.

A 15-minute ferry ride away from Cancún, you’ll find Isla Mujeres an elongated tropical paradise just five miles long and half a mile wide. 

This laid-back Caribbean island owes its name to Ixchel, the Mayan goddess of fertility, love, pregnancy and birth – mujeres meaning women in Spanish. Legend has it that when the Spanish arrived at Isla Mujeres, they discovered a sanctuary dedicated to worshipping the goddess. 

In time, the island is said to have become a refuge for pirates and smugglers and later morphed into a fishing village.

These days, Isla Mujeres is a Pueblo Mágico – a designation given to the most picturesque of Mexican towns – and its sandy shores are visited by millions each year. 

Whether you’re after a relaxed holiday steeped in Mexican hospitality or are drawn to it for its proximity to the Mesoamerican Reef – the second-largest coral reef system in the world – Isla Mujeres is sure to charm you. 

When should I go to Isla Mujeres?

One of the best things about Mexico is that its beaches are warm year-round. You should note, though, that June to November is hurricane season, so you might want to avoid traveling then – despite the alluring low prices. 

High season runs from January through April, so expect to pay top dollar if you’re planning a trip during this period. Overall, the best time to visit Isla Mujeres is from December to March, when the weather is at its most pleasant.

If swimming with whale sharks is on your bucket list, the best time to go to Isla Mujeres is between June and September – with July being peak whale shark season.

How much time should I spend in Isla Mujeres?

Its small size makes it easy to visit Isla Mujeres on a day trip from Cancún – you can walk from one end of the island to the other in approximately two hours.

However, to truly get a feel of the island – including its serene beaches and buzzy nightlife – it’s best to spend a couple of nights there. 

Is it easy to get in and around Isla Mujeres?

Isla Mujeres is easy to reach by ferry from the ferry terminals in Puerto Juárez, Cancún and the Hotel Zone. Ferries leave every 30 minutes or every hour, depending on the time of day. Keep the timetable handy, especially if visiting on a day trip. 

Once in Isla Mujeres, you can walk almost everywhere – or you can rent a golf cart to drive from the more developed Playa Norte to the rugged south of town in style. 

Top things to do in Isla Mujeres

Explore an underwater museum

MUSA, the Underwater Museum of Art, is one of the most interesting museums you’ll ever come across.

Located off the southern coast of Isla Mujeres, it features over 500 life-size sculptures designed to promote the recovery of natural reefs. You can explore this underwater wonder by snorkeling, scuba diving or taking a glass-bottom boat tour.

Drive around town on a golf cart

One of the most popular modes of transportation in Isla Mujeres is a golf cart. Not only is this a practical way of getting across the island, but it also adds to the fun of discovering new places.

It’s especially useful if you’re only there for the day, as it shaves time off the two hours that you would take getting from Playa Norte to Punta Sur on foot. You’ll need a valid driver’s license to rent one.

Lounge on the beach

Said to be the most beautiful beach on the island, Playa Norte’s soft, white sand stretches for approximately half a mile.

Safe for swimming, you can keep going into the water for a while and the water will remain waist-deep, making it ideal for families. You’ll also find scores of cafes and restaurants in the area to while away the hours with a cocktail in hand and your toes in the sand. 

Other beaches to check out include Playa Centro – the first one you’ll spot from the ferry – and Playa Albatros. Together with Playa Norte, these are the three beaches on the island with Blue Flag certification.

Swim with whale sharks

The best time to swim with whale sharks in Isla Mujeres is from June to September. Drawn to warm waters in search of plankton and abundant fish, these gentle giants are easily spotted by taking a boat an hour and a half to two hours out to sea.

Isla Whale Sharks have knowledgeable and professional guides that show respect to their surroundings, the animals and their clients at all times. 

My favorite thing to do in Isla Mujeres

Isla Mujeres was the first place I ever drove a golf cart, so I may be biased in saying it’s one of my favorite activities on the island.

But if I’m allowed a second pick, it’s got to be swinging over the waves near the ferry terminal. There’s no better way to pass the time before catching the ferry back to Cancún! Sunset on a swing with your feet in the waves? Yes, please!

How much money do I need for Isla Mujeres?

Isla Mujeres has options to suit every budget, from affordable hostels with a social scene to boutique hotels with oceanfront views.

You’ll even find luxurious stays offering laid-back island charm, complete with infinity pools and private beaches.

For dining, budget-friendly options include casual taquerías and local seafood spots, while those looking to splurge can enjoy upscale beachfront restaurants serving fresh lobster and cocktails with a view.

The time of year you visit plays a big role in costs. September to November is the most affordable, though it’s also the rainy season and falls within hurricane months.

For dry, sunny weather, December through March is ideal, but it’s also peak season – expect higher prices for accommodation and activities.

• Hostel room: M$450-1300 (US$22-65) 

• Basic room for two: M$1200-2000 (US$60-150) 

• Self-catering apartment: M$1200-2500 (US$60-122) 

• Ferry ticket: M$290 (US$14)

• Coffee: M$60-80 (US$3-4)

• Sandwich: M$60 (US$3)

• Fish tacos: M$180-200 (US$9-10) for an order of three

• Dinner for two at a mid-range restaurant: M$600-1200 (US$30-60)

• Beer/pint at the bar: M$50 (US$3)

Is Isla Mujeres safe for travelers?

With very low crime rates, Isla Mujeres is considered a safe destination for travelers and can be enjoyed by taking standard precautions. The nearby naval base contributes to the island’s safety, with military patrols on the beaches and streets serving as a preventative measure.

Is the nightlife in Isla Mujeres as good as it is in Cancún?

If world-renowned clubs are important for your holiday enjoyment, you’re better off heading to Cancún for the night.

Still, Isla Mujeres does have its share of lively bars, namely the beach clubs on the Playa Norte end (you’ll find DJs and live music at some of them).