Archives July 2022

Okay, okay, you caught us: Paris is on this list. How could it not be? It’s the Most Romantic City in the World. But the French capital isn’t the only fun city escape for couples on the planet.

There are plenty of lesser-known cities that can sweep your partner off their feet or whisper sweet nothings in your ear for nights you’ll never forget. So we asked Lonely Planet contributors for the best ones. They didn’t disappoint. Here are the 10 most fun city getaways for couples.

1. Washington, DC, USA

Lonely Planet writer Barbara Noe Kennedy is a freelance writer focusing on destinations, art, culture, food and adventure around the world.

With all the soapboxing going on in the US capital, you might assume there’s not much time for romance. But Washington, DC is a genteel city of flowery parks, arched bridges, waterfront walks, and cozy restaurants, offering lovebirds plenty of options.

On sunny days, hop the dinghy to Hains Point for a waterside picnic. Watch the sunset from Arlington’s sky-high observation deck The View of DC, then sip wine at Artechouse and play with digital forms and color in a super-cool interactive room.

Where to splash the cash: Book dinner for two at the ultra-romantic Inn at Little Washington just outside the city.

Cheap date? Stroll hand-in-hand at dusk around the National Mall, as white marble monuments begin to glow in the dwindling light.

2. Seville, Spain

Fiona Flores Watson met her media naranja in Seville. She lives there with him and their children and is still as enamored as ever by its charms.

Renowned as Spain’s most romantic city, Seville’s year-round sunshine means you can always be outside. The charming city is packed with pretty plazas, jasmine-scented patios and rooftop bars with killer views. Try the Hotel Doña Maria terrace bar at sunset, looking onto the Giralda tower.

In summer, nothing can beat a moonlit outdoor concert in the Royal Alcázar gardens for romance, while a fun daytime option is to hire a rowing boat on the canal at stunning Plaza de España with its tiled bridges. And who can resist the flaming passion of a live flamenco show?

Where to splash the cash: Hire an electric boat, complete with a bar, for your own private river trip.

Cheap date? Rise up above the rooftops at Las Setas for the best panoramic vistas in town.

3. Marrakesh, Morocco

Mandy Sinclair is a Marrakesh-based writer and owner of Tasting Marrakech food and cultural tours.

Magical light, hundreds of romantic riads and an unmatched ambiance make Marrakesh a perfect spot for amorous adventure. Snag a table for two in the nearby Agafay Desert and watch the sunset before tucking into a candlelit dinner. Wish upon a star before retreating to your tent for the night, waking up for the sunrise.

Glamping not your style? Choose a luxury riad and plan an early-morning wake-up call to watch the first rays illuminate the Anti Atlas Mountains during a hot-air balloon ride organized by Ciel d’Afrique.

Where to splash the cash: Try a couple’s hammam treatment at the Royal Mansour. This spot is owned by the king of Morocco, so you know you’ll be treated like royalty.

Cheap date? Pick out some fresh-cut flowers at the marché aux fleurs (flower market) before asking the florist to whip them up into a bouquet, which shouldn’t set you back more than Dh100 (USD $11).

4. Edinburgh, Scotland

Lonely Planet writer James Smart spent 10 years in Edinburgh and is a regular visitor with his partner.

Edinburgh has great restaurants, peaceful gardens and snug pubs. Views stretch out to the Firth of Forth, across to Fife and down through atmospheric alleyways. Above it all, bang in the center of the city, looms a castle on a crag. Scotland’s strollable capital could hardly fail to set hearts fluttering.

Visitors can admire the views from windswept Arthur’s Seat or the Gothic Scott Monument, or promenade in Princes Street Gardens. Bramble hides beneath a dry cleaners and offers some of the city’s best cocktails and the Old Town is great for atmospheric pubs.

Where to splash the cash: The historic, candlelit Witchery offers Edinburgh’s classic high-end dining experience.

Cheap date? Stroll along the rather lovely Water of Leith, which takes in arty Stockbridge and dockside Leith – finish your walk with a lip-smacking fish supper from Pierinos. Else Edinburgh has plenty to do for free.

5. Vancouver, Canada

Contributor John Lee is prolific, award-winning travel writer.

Vancouverites are at least as in love with the great outdoors as they are with each other. But gooey-eyed locals know exactly how to combine their passions. Hire a tandem from Spokes Bicycle Rentals to scope out picnic spots along the seawall or gaze lovingly at the sunset – and each other­­ – from Stanley Park’s Third Beach.

Rainy day? Commune with the resident lovebirds inside Bloedel Conservatory’s tropical dome or take a couples’ culinary class at Dirty Apron Cooking School. For a grand finale, hop a ferry to Bowen Island, hike up Mount Gardner and pop the question overlooking a heart-stopping ocean panorama.

Where to splash the cash: Let your love soar on a breathtaking scenic floatplane tour with Harbour Air.

Cheap date? Read romantic books together in the lofty new roof garden at downtown’s Vancouver Public Library – A Room with a View recommended.

6. Beijing, China

Tom O’Malley is a Lonely Planet writer based in Beijing.

In romance terms, seductive Shanghai twirls on the dance floor as Beijing props up the bar, munching sunflower seeds and checking its phone. But there are ways to woo in China’s prim and proper capital.

Local couples spice things up with a romantic repast of malatang, all your favorite things speared on sticks and daubed, salaciously, in spicy sesame goo. As dusk turns to dark, one serenades the other, KTV (karaoke) microphone in hand, before catching a Didi (China’s Uber) to an imperial beauty spot.

A stroll at Houhai Lake, perhaps, selfies on Yinding Bridge under the moon, and a big plastic beaker of sweet bubble tea – with one straw. That’s amore, Beijing-style.

Where to splash the cash: Book a suite at the Rosewood Hotel, with floor-to-ceiling views of the CCTV Tower and your own private butler to serve up the champers.

Cheap date? Ride bicycles through the Forbidden City forecourt after dark.

7. Paris, France

Catherine Le Nevez is a long-time Lonely Planet writer based in Paris.

A classic city break destination for couples, the romanticized French capital is even more captivating when viewed from the water. From its dock near the Eiffel Tower, celebrated chef Alain Ducasse’s ‘floating restaurant’ Ducasse sur Seine serves gourmet lunch and dinner menus at white-clothed tables while you glide through Paris’ heart. Canauxrama cruises along charming Canal St-Martin pass through double locks, swing bridges and an underground section.

In the city’s two sprawling forests, recreate a scene from an impressionist painting by hiring a rowboat on Lac Daumesnil in the eastern Bois de Vincennes, or Lac Inférieur in the western Bois de Boulogne.

Where to splash the cash: Take to the skies! Scenic Helipass helicopter flights over Paris land near the Château de Versailles.

Cheap date? Stroll the Seine’s riverbanks and islands including the Île aux Cygnes and the Île de la Cité’s aromatic flower market Marché aux Fleurs Reine Elizabeth II.

8. Lima, Peru

Unexpectedly, Lonely Planet writer Agnes Rivera found love in Lima before falling in love with the city itself.

Romantic energy hovers over Lima like a sweetheart smog. Head to the fisherman’s dock in the Chorrillos district, where boatmen will row you and your other half across the sea for a small fee. Afterward, select fish fresh from the market and create your own version of Peru’s star plate: ceviche.

Further north, La Punta feels like a well-kept secret. A tranquil peninsula in Lima’s port town Callao, a romantic culture grew here when Italian immigrants arrived in the early 20th century, resulting in intimate and artisanal eateries.

Where to splash the cash: Book a table for two at seafood restaurant La Rosa Nautica, and enjoy sunset views of Lima’s skyline.

Cheap date: Wander through Parque El Olivar, an olive grove old enough to make any couple feel young again (some trees have stood here for 400 years).

9. Perth, Australia

Writer Fleur Bainger fell head over heels for Western Australia more than a decade ago and continues to be wooed by its natural beauty and evolving personality.

With its sun-kissed climate and river-to-sea location, Perth is an outdoorsy city – but it’s also an underground music hotbed. Toe tappers, wow your date by entering a red telephone box and descending to the Jazz Cellar’s speakeasy or take a picnic to Fremantle Arts Centre on Sundays for free courtyard tunes (October to March).

Nature-lovers should hit secluded Bennion Beach for sunset-over-sea gazing with a bottle of local bubbles wedged in the sand or seek out the riverside Coombe Reserve in Mosman Park to amp up the romantic vibe.

Where to splash the cash: Take a private chopper from Hillarys Boat Harbour to Rottnest Island, combining aerial eye candy with an intimate picnic at local’s fave, Fay’s Bay.
Cheap date? Drive to the top of Kalamunda’s Zig Zag Scenic Drive for romantic views of twinkling city lights.

10. Mexico City, Mexico

Laura Bronner is a travel writer based in Mexico City.

Mexico City might not seem like the most romantic city at first glance, but peel back the layers and beneath its gritty exterior you’ll find passion around every corner. Start the evening with a cocktail at a little table in the back of the dimly lit Limantour in Roma Norte. Then enjoy a meal in the intimate dining room at Lorea; opt for the drinks pairing for a truly extravagant experience.

End your night at the city’s most romantic hotel, La Valise Hotel. Book yourself into the Terraza room and you can quite literally have your bed on the balcony beneath the stars. It doesn’t get more romantic than that.

Where to splash the cash: Sud 777’s candlelit rooms, Mexican wine list and unique set menu all ooze romance and sophistication.

Cheap date? Do as the local lovebirds do: bring a blanket to Chapultepec Park and canoodle in the sunshine.

Romance isn’t off limits once you have children – you just need to work harder to make it happen, and that goes for when you’re travelling too.

If a willing babysitter is a distant fantasy, or you just don’t fancy leaving the kids at home while you jet off to exotic climes, it’s still possible to sneak a little honeymoon vibe into your family trip. Here’s how.

Choose your destination wisely

This may be pointing out the obvious, but make sure you choose a destination that looks and feels romantic. Sure, the kids may still have tantrums, but strolling along a jaw-dropping white sand beach, or the streets of a beautifully dishevelled Mediterranean city will help take the edge off.

Yes, a Disney cruise or a cheerful child-focused resort might keep the kids out of your hands for longer, but you’ll have to spend your ‘alone time’ in the company of giant dancing cartoon characters, or worse: strangers’ children.

Space out

There’s no bigger passion killer than having to cram the entire family into one room. You know the drill: you wrestle the kids into bed, then spend the rest of the evening in semi-darkness, tiptoeing around in silence for fear of waking them up.

Renting an apartment is one solution – they get their own room and you get to have dinner at an adult-friendly hour. But if having to do your own washing up seems too much like domestic drudgery, splash out on a hotel suite or connecting rooms, or at least plump for a hotel room with a terrace so you can have some quiet time together while the kids are asleep.

Bring reinforcements

Remember the days when you could pop out of the house on a whim for a quick drink? When a trip to the beach didn’t involve buckets, spades and sandy meltdowns? No? Bring the grandparents along for the ride and you can remind yourself.

Your kids get to spend quality time with grandma and grandpa, and you get to spend quality time out on the town with your other half, so it’s a win all around. And unlike kids’ clubs and babysitters, there’s no need to book in advance, so impromptu walks on the beach are possible once again. If you’re very lucky, you may even get a lie-in.

Keep the kids entertained

The good old kids’ club is the easiest way to make time for romance on a family holiday. While your offspring are led on treasure hunts, you can relive your child-free days by sightseeing unencumbered, enjoying lunch by the sea, or, if you’re truly frazzled, taking a long, companionable nap.

If your children are too young for a kids’ club, there are often trained babysitters available, and some hotels offer baby listening services (less creepy than it sounds), enabling you to go out for a romantic dinner after putting the kids to bed.

Make nap time count

Having children who are young enough to nap is an added bonus when trying to ramp up the romantic atmosphere. Location is key here too. No one wants to be stuck in a hotel room watching a baby sleep, so book digs with some outside space, preferably with swoon-inducing surrounds.

Alternatively, you can lull them to sleep in the buggy while you take a walk, and when they’ve finally dozed off, sink a few cocktails and take in the view. If you’ve got a good sleeper, this can also work for an evening out.

Take a group holiday

Dealing with your own children on holiday can be challenging, so having others join the fray may seem ill-advised. But hire a villa with a group of friends and you can take it in turns to watch the little ones, allowing you some days and nights off to rekindle the old flame.

You could even take one of an ever-increasing number of group tours aimed at families, such as those organised by G Adventures or the Family Adventure Company. The kids will have an instant group of friends, and the other parents can help shoulder the childcare responsibilities, giving everyone a little couples’ time off.

Let the kids in on the fun

There’s no rule that says you can only enjoy a bit of romance when the kids aren’t around. Watch the sunset together as a family, or go to a beautiful spot for a beach picnic, with champagne for the grown-ups and sparkling soft drinks for the kids.

Remember that magical moments can be found in unexpected places. Just being together and watching your kids’ wide-eyed excitement as they discover new places and experiences can be pretty romantic in itself.

Where to go

Mauritius – With all the drop-dead gorgeous beaches you could wish for, this is prime romantic couples’ territory, yet many resorts are well set up for children, with kids’ clubs, babysitting and even the odd family massage session.

Glamping, Great Britain – Wear the kids out with wholesome countryside activities, then enjoy fire-lit evenings underneath the stars – without dampening the mood by having to put up your own tent.

Thailand – Few places beat Thailand for great value accommodation. Rent a bargainous romantic villa and luxuriate in the space between you and your offspring.

Italy – Hire a charming old farmhouse in the countryside. Once the kids are in bed you can gaze out over the hills and vineyards and stuff yourself silly with fine Italian produce.

South Africa – Visit one of the country’s many family-friendly wildlife lodges. While you’re off on a sunset game drive, the kids can enjoy the delights of a mini dung spotting safari.

Are you and your kids curious about the world? Come explore! Let’s start an adventure on the Lonely Planet Kids blog.

Earlier this year, July 1 to be exact, Switzerland said “I do” to same-sex marriages. Whilst same-sex couples won the right to enter civil partnerships back in 2007, it was only after a referendum late last year whereby popular vote, more than 64% of voters approved the “Marriage for All” initiative.

Not only has the Swiss Civil Code to define marriage changed from “a union between bride and a groom” to “a union between two people”, but the parliamentary amendment now gives LGBTQ+ community members greater equality when it comes to marriage, adoption and parental rights.

Despite the country ranking as one of the most LGBTQ-friendly countries in the world, Switzerland seems to be playing catch up to other European countries like Germany, the United Kingdom and France where same-sexed marriages were approved in 2017, 2014 and 2013 respectively.

In celebration of this historical LGBTQ victory and to help you navigate your own wedding (whether same-sex or otherwise) here is everything you need to know for your special wedding day in beautiful Switzerland. Felicitations!

Why did it take Switzerland so long?

Campaigning for gay marriage in Switzerland started more than 40 years ago and when the Netherlands became the first country to approve same-sex marriage back in 2001, Switzerland didn’t step into action and be on par with the Dutch. Switzerland only really started making inroads and moved in the same direction as their neighbors Germany and France in 2013 after many rounds of voting which resulted in a law that saw no person was to be discriminated based on “race, ethnicity, religion or sexual orientation”. Since then, Switzerland has been moving towards marriage equality. A country constantly rated as one of the “safest” and “friendliest” destinations in the world is finally making amends to be more inclusive when it comes to ethnicities, racial status and LGBTQ standings.

Chris Sprenger, President of PRIDE Central Switzerland celebrates Switzerland’s move for equality, “I feel good that it has finally arrived in Switzerland. It took way too long but it is a step to equality,” says Chris. He adds, “Many people waited desperately to have the opportunity to marry their partner, but this (law) now offers security for the LGBTQ+ community which is most important.”

Drag queens guide to 9 unique US pride destinations for 2022

What other benefits does this bring?

The security that Chris refers to comes in the form of new benefits. With the approval of same-sex marriages, the LGBTQ community have even more things to celebrate. Under the new amended law, same-sex couples are now also allowed to adopt children and married lesbian couples are allowed to have children through sperm donation which was only legal for married heterosexual couples. The new law also extends the role of parent to the woman not carrying the child and furthermore, the law also allows same-sex couples who are currently already registered in a partnership to convert their union into a marriage.

How Black LGBTIQ+ travelers navigate a challenging world

What countries recognize gay marriage in Switzerland?

Not all countries recognize gay marriages from other countries and there are only 19 out of 50 countries in Europe that do recognize same-sex marriages at the moment. Although Switzerland is not a part of the EU, they do have tight relationships with its neighbors which means its same-sex marriage policy is recognized in other countries that have the same law. Besides Switzerland, same-sex marriages are legally valid and performed in Austria, Belgium, Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Iceland, Ireland, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Portugal, Spain, Sweden, and the United Kingdom. Also, countries including Andorra, Croatia, Cyprus, the Czech Republic, Estonia, Greece, Hungary, Italy, Liechtenstein, Monaco, Montenegro, San Marino, and Slovenia recognize some form of same-sex civil union.

Things only a gay traveler has to consider

What is the procedure in Switzerland?

For American citizens who wish to marry in Switzerland, you will need to fill out a document declaring a definitive statement that you meet all the requirements for marriage. The Swiss Civil Registrar of the town or city where you want to get married will help you with the necessary requirements and it is worth noting that only Swiss civil authorities may marry you, not consular officers. Some common details you should keep in mind include: having two adults as witnesses present, translating any documents before arriving (French, German or Italian depending on what part of Switzerland you are in) and providing your residence status. There is also a waiting period of up to five weeks which is ample time for you to start planning your wedding in Switzerland.

Switzerland visa requirements

What are the legal requirements?

There are a few things you have to meet in order to get married in Switzerland. The brides or grooms must be at least 18 years old and not be already married or in a registered partnership. If you are not Swiss but are marrying a Swiss resident, you will have to provide the appropriate documentation from your home country and in some cases apply for a visa. You will also need to notify the registry office of your address and intention and the office will send a marriage license permitting you and your partner to wed in their building. Unfortunately, you can not wed in Switzerland on a tourist visa but if you do have approval, it takes just three months to get married after authorization from the registrar.

The 11 most incredible places to visit in Switzerland

How much does it cost?

A civil ceremony ranges between $300 to $400 USD. A civil partnership fee is $200 USD. When it comes to your wedding, the average price ranges from $40,000 and $50,000 USD for an all-inclusive wedding (catering, DJ, wedding planner and photography) for 80 guests, however additional costs can come into play like having a wedding on the weekend, during high season or if you have expensive tastes and want to hire out an entire hotel for your special day! We are after all in Switzerland – everything comes at a hefty cost but it will be memorable if you know how to plan it!

The best time to go to Switzerland

The best destination for a winter wedding in Switzerland

Switzerland is the ideal place for a wedding with beauty found in all 26 cantons. Forget your wedding photographer photoshopping your wedding photo with fluffy clouds drifting over the Swiss Alps – no, in Switzerland everything is exactly as Mother Nature intended and contributes to a memorable wedding album. An ideal location would be in one of the country’s most historical hotels, The Kulm Hotel St. Moritz with the charming 19th-century hotel perched high up in the Swiss mountains overlooking the sparkly Lake St. Moritz. The hotel has its own on-site wedding planner and can help you from start to finish with catering, make-up and even floral arrangements curated by the hotel team. As far as activities go, could there be anything more romantic than going on a horse-drawn carriage with the snow-capped Swiss alps in the background?

Best castle for your wedding

If you have always dreamed of being royalty, why not consider hosting your wedding in a castle or palace in Switzerland? Chateau Gutsch perched high above Lake Lucerne is an elegant choice for weddings with the newly renovated Belle-Epoque chateau reopening earlier this year to host already a slew of weddings.

On the French-speaking side, a perennial favorite is the very same castle that inspired Disney’s The Little Mermaid, Chateau Chillon. Located on Lake Leman, the medieval island fortress sits just outside of resort town Montreux and can be booked for your wedding but be warned, the castle closes at midnight – how very Disney!

For self-professed foodies who love wine, the Le Grand Bellevue Palace in Gstaad is a much safer bet for people who like to party well into the night. The glamorously elegant hotel caters to big and small weddings with private function rooms in their award-winning wine cellar, alpine chalet and also 160 capacity banquet hall which is of course catered by Michelin-star chef Francesco de Bartolomeis.

How to get around in Switzerland

Best wedding destinations for a Mediterranean vibe

If you are not a winter person, don’t dismiss Switzerland just yet. With more than 1500 lakes in Switzerland, it is hard to forget you are in a landlocked country with all the pristinely clean rivers, lakes and reservoirs that make up this well-groomed country. The lakes are not only great destinations for sports during the summer but they are great destinations for weddings too. On the German-speaking side of Switzerland, Victoria Jungfrau Grand Hotel and Spa takes out all the hard work for your wedding with a planner on-site to meet your needs. Choose to have your wedding in a heritage-protected Salon Napoleon under Europe’s largest Murano chandelier or in a garden surrounded by hundreds of lanterns with the Jungfrau as your backdrop.

If you find yourself on the French-speaking side of Switzerland, nothing beats the gorgeous Beau-Rivage Palace, a historical hotel where the treaty of Lausanne was signed and where Charlie Chaplin and Coco Channel frequently visited. Whether you choose to have your wedding in their garden overlooking Lake Leman or in the historical banquet hall, the recently renovated Beau Rivage Palace remains a gem for special events with the 18th-century art-nouveau decor seemingly never going out of fashion.

The 7 most scenic road trips in Switzerland

Best honeymoon destinations

You can easily spend your honeymoon in a big city like Zurich or Geneva but given you just got married to your one true love, you surely want to be alone and what better way to do this than spending your honeymoon in the middle of nowhere: Andermatt. Once a booming resort for alpine skiing, the now lesser-known alpine region is relatively isolated (compared to St. Moritz and touristy Zermatt) and it feels like it is just you, your new groom/bride and the mountains. The Chedi Andermatt is a nice spot for your wedding banquet but this 5-star luxury hotel is even better as a honeymoon spot with the hotel relatively hidden in the mountains. There is no guilt if you choose not to leave your room, they are spacious, inspiring and soundproof.

For city dwellers, you can’t beat the coolest city hotel in the country, the Dolder Grand in Zurich. Perched high above the city, overlooking Lake Zurich, the hotel has an impressive art collection but an even better spa and wellness center to cure a hangover after celebrating your unity in Zurich.

Views you have to see to believe: 9 must-do hikes in Switzerland

Best place for bachelor/bachelorette party

Wedding bliss aside, nothing is more important than the biggest party you will ever have in your lifetime: your bachelorette/bachelor party. What better way to wave adieu to your single life (finally!) than in Zurich’s largest LGBTQ-friendly city: Zurich. Julia Mueller, member and supporter of the LGBTQ Community in Zurich and volunteer at the Pink Apple Film Festival loves how LGBTQ-friendly her home city is and doesn’t recommend just LGBTQ bars for celebrations and parties. “Zurich is a very LGBTQ-friendly city so we don’t need to separate our bars (from non-Queer destinations). The new law encourages an even stronger and safer feeling for us and personally, I like Das Gleis and Daniel H when I go out with friends. Although Zurich is known for their LGBTQ activities, Chris encourages partying in other cantons outside of Zurich like Bern and Lucerne, “My favorite bar in Zurich is Cranberry’s and L’arbre is queer-friendly for a cozy place with good drinks. Many people say Zurich is the only place for LGBTQ+ fun but even in Central Switzerland, we have around 10-15 organizations who offer spontaneous gatherings, parties, sports and other things,” says Chris.

2022 Pride: 12 most LGBTIQ+ friendly destinations

Best souvenirs for your guests

Switzerland is a country made for souvenirs with wine and chocolate being the best items to take home to loved ones. Rather than giving keychains of the Eiffel tower to your guests, there are many great Swiss souvenirs to give your guests as a memory of your special day. A great parting gift for guests, boutique chocolateries can be found all over Switzerland with Max Chocolate in Lucerne, Auer Chocolate in Geneva and La Flor in Zurich coming highly recommended for their curated and tailor-made selections for special occasions.

Meet the Swiss cows behind your favorite European treats

The first date, the first kiss, the first fight, the first trip – these rites of passage form the foundations of an early relationship. Travelling together is especially telling. Does one person want to surf at dawn and the other prefer to laze? Does one perk up and the other shrink back at the prospect of wild camping? Adventure travel in particular can alter a relationship for better or worse.

Lonely Planet Trailblazers Kia and Peter from Atlas & Boots have travelled together since 2014. Here they share how adventure travel has changed and challenged their relationship.

First-time camping on a Fiji beach

Taveuni on Fiji is a Pacific paradise perfect for camping. With open canvas beneath night-time skies and the gentle hush of a peaceful sea, Beverly Beach was the perfect opportunity to introduce Kia to camping. Alas, it did not go as planned.

Kia: Camping on a beach sounds lovely, but I thoroughly hated it. There were wild dogs in the area that wouldn’t leave us alone, droves of mosquitoes, awful facilities and even a roach or two from the dwellings next door. On the second night, while in the toilet, in the dark, something wet and heavy landed on my foot – too big to be a bug, too small to be a cat. I ran out, horrified, later discovering that it was a massive toad. I enjoy adventure travel, but this wasn’t my idea of fun and I’ve resisted camping ever since.

Peter: I am happiest under canvas and was keen to initiate Kia into the pleasures of camping.

Sadly, she hated it and to my dismay still hates it to this day. The experience taught us to meet in the middle. Now, we limit camping trips to a maximum of three days. I get my fix and she keeps her cool.

Out of our depth on a Vanuatu dive

After a month on the Pacific islands of Vanuatu, we had four days left with nothing to do. Over sunset drinks, we spotted a fellow backpacker studying for the PADI Open Water Diver course and decided we had just enough time to get certified too.

Kia: I was born and raised in London and seldom had the chance to swim, so I severely struggled with my PADI certification. Peter, on the other hand, grew up by the sea and found it extremely easy. I’m highly competitive and had a hard time accepting that I was weak at this. I had to learn to let go of control and allow Peter to teach me.

Peter: Kia is a bit of a nerd and is used to being good at things. Diving, however, was a clear shortcoming. Learning to dive together was great because it taught us how to teach and learn from each other, to leave our egos on the boat, to be patient, and to trust and rely on each other underwater. Adventure travel and diving in particular is a genuinely enriching experience for couples.

The ‘hike from hell’ in Ethiopia

Erta Ale volcano in Ethiopia has been dubbed the ‘hike from hell’. Two nights with no running water, no toilets and no privacy in searing temperatures and under armed guard are testing circumstances for any couple.

Kia: This hike really underlined how past adventures have toughened me up and brought us closer together. There was no privacy and we had to venture far from camp to find a tree or ditch for a shared toilet break (and not just the ladylike variety). This trip taught me that being able to laugh together is worth a thousand luxuries.

Peter: Despite an obvious lack of comfort, Erta Ale was one of the best things we’ve done together. Travelling to an incredible natural sight in one of the least accessible places on my bucket list was utterly thrilling. People talk about the ‘seven year itch’, but if you continue to do exciting things, you will continue to be excited.

Language barrier at the Bolivian border

After eight months on the road, we found ourselves fast waning. Bolivia was a test in more ways than one.

Kia: Crossing overland from Bolivia to Chile was unexpectedly complicated. There was tortured wrangling in Spanish, an overnight stay in a hovel and lavish fees on exit and entry. I speak some Spanish and had therefore been the de facto leader through the last four countries of our trip and found myself quickly tiring. The experience taught me that I had to buck up and be the strong one when the situation called for it.

Peter: South America was frustrating because I had to watch Kia struggle with the language barrier and could do nothing to help. On one occasion, she was demanding a refund for a room that had no water, but the proprietor only agreed to a dollar. Normally, I’d get confrontational, but had to let Kia handle it. It taught us to play to our strengths and ease each other’s weaknesses.

True romance under Northern Lights

It was our second night in a freezing cold Norway. Buffeted by icy winds, we prayed that this would be the night we’d finally see the lights.

Kia: I didn’t have high hopes. A few years earlier, we had spent a freezing night in Iceland, fruitlessly waiting for the lights to appear just as we had in Norway the night before. Not a glimmer. This night, however, our guide was sure: the lights would finally appear. He was right and they were utterly jaw-dropping. I held Peter’s hand and, for a moment, we were no longer wry Brits or seen-it-all travellers; we weren’t cynical Londoners, or a writer and a photographer angling for a story. We were just two people in love experiencing something extraordinary.

Peter: Seeing the Northern Lights in Norway was one of the best things I’ve done. It was worth the biting cold and crushing disappointment of prior attempts. That moment, under those lights, taught us to enjoy extraordinary moments without sullying them with a silly joke or sly aside; to enjoy romantic moments purely for what they are.

Epic Hikes of the World (Paperback)

Nowhere does next-level opulence like the United Arab Emirates, and in our perpetually moving world, simply savouring silence has become the next sought-after luxury.

To the untrained eye, Sharjah is just a seamless extension of its glitzy next-door neighbour, Dubai, and all the glamour (and grudges) that tag along with it. But Sharjah stands its ground, and few places straddle the line of the past and progress quite so well. This uber-accomplished emirate has some serious culture cred on its CV: Cultural Capital of the Arab World in 1998, Islamic Culture Capital in 2014, Capital of Arab Tourism in 2015.

With this culture seems to come a certain type of calm: feet quietly shuffling through an under-visited museum; a steaming cup of karak chai, that ubiquitous milky black tea spiced to perfection with cardamom and saffron, best enjoyed under an enveloping blanket of desert stars; or simply standing still long enough to baffle a building full of butterflies. Whether you’re looking to take the pace down a notch from the high of Dubai or just need a healthy dose of peace and quiet, these spots in Sharjah promise to bring you tantalisingly close to zero decibels.

Peer into the past at the Mleiha archaeological site

No matter how glitzy the cities are, the Emirati soul will forever be found in the desert. And, as it turns out, some of our own ancestral underpinnings, whether we’re Arab or not, emerged from these sands in Sharjah. One of humanity’s first settlements outside Africa was located in an area of Sharjah now called Mleiha, a hushed, Martian-looking desertscape far removed from the emirate’s urban hum. Archaeological excavations have unearthed a bounty of ancient artefacts, including 125,000-year-old stone hand axes, that indicate that early humans thrived here. These findings have rewritten our own history, as researchers now believe that early humans could have left Africa 20,000 years earlier than previously thought.

Start your exploration at the visitors centre, unveiled in 2016, for a crash course in the history of humanity. Excavations are strewn across the surrounding desert, so sign up for a tour and pick your mode of transport for trailing the footsteps of your ancestors: 4WD, mountain bike or your own two feet. But the true highlight of this site is staying for sunset and beyond, so you can overnight amongst the desert dunes. Before you bed down for the night, you can open a window into the past on a dune-driving 4WD excursion to Fossil Rock, a huge landmark stone in the middle of nowhere that’s embedded with countless creatures, and ponder existence with a stargazing session: the visitors centre provides sophisticated telescopes to view constellations, the moon and our planetary neighbours, plus – if it’s a clear night – galaxies far, far away.

Weather the storm at Sharjah’s Rain Room

A permanent downpour has arrived in the desert with the opening of the Rain Room art installation, which has settled in Sharjah after a round-the-world tour. Nearly 3000 litres of water drip from the ceiling of a nearly pitch-black room, pierced only by a horizontal beam that seems to train the spotlight on each individual drop. As opposed to braving it in unsympathetic Mother Nature, your body is your umbrella in the Rain Room, where a sophisticated system of networked cameras tracks your movement – step slowly to stay dry and move quickly at your own risk. While admittedly the falling pitter-patter of perpetual rain isn’t decibel-free, the natural noise is music to the ears. Groups inside the Rain Room are limited to six people.

Find stillness amongst the butterflies on Al Noor Island

Attached to the mainland by a single meandering thread of a bridge, Al Noor Island is a wonderfully lush retreat from the high rises of Sharjah city. Walkways, some of which transform unannounced into pavement-wide trampolines, encircle the isle, which was designed by Austrian artist André Heller. Al Noor Island’s central attraction is its modern but nature-inspired glass-paned butterfly house, which is home to hundreds of peacefully fluttering specimens, and it’s partially obscured by a sunlight-bright metal ‘wave’ that looks somewhere between traditional mashrabiya (lattice screens in Middle Eastern architecture that allow someone to see out but not in) and a super-deluxe K’Nex set. Lie in wait long enough and you might just be remodelled into a butterfly-approved piece of furniture, as they slowly become less shy about where they settle. Al Noor Island is particularly tranquil at night when 1200 fibreglass bulbs light up the ‘glimmering meadow’ and sway like fireflies: the result is magical.

Stay off the grid … or in the middle of it all

Because of its close proximity to Dubai – and an alcohol ban that seems to frighten some people – Sharjah receives only a fraction of the overnight visitors, so travellers who opt to stay are in for a treat. Brand new boutique hotels that promise to conserve the local culture, heritage and natural ecosystems are popping up across the emirate in some of the least expected places. In the aptly named Heart of Sharjah, a white-washed restored heritage district in the centre of the city, hides Al Bait, low-rise luxury digs that are built on the foundations of old houses (Al Bait means ‘house’ in Arabic). The traditional architecture aims for peak privacy, as the suites are clustered around quiet courtyards. You can even check into the hotel while you’re still at the airport so you can get straight to relaxing.

Nestled in the red-streaked sands near the archaeological site of Mleiha is a secluded spot worth seeking out when it opens later in 2019. Al Faya Lodge has just five rooms and was improbably fashioned from an abandoned 1960s-era medical clinic and grocery store; also on site is what’s thought to be one of the first petroleum pumps in the UAE. The rooms have over-bed skylights that are primed for silent stargazing, and just off the modernist-style swimming pool is the unique ‘hands-free’ spa, where treatments are administered simply by relaxing in the rooms: watch the sunset from the Himalayan salt inhalation room before washing off in the tropical shower and heading to the the herbal ventilation area, where the air is peppered with scents of chamomile, cinnamon, cloves and frankincense.

Kayak through Khor Kalba and glamp near the beach

As the only emirate with real estate on both of the country’s coasts, Sharjah makes the most of its stretches of sea. Leave the busy built-up western side for the eastern enclave of Khor Kalba, where you can paddle the calm coastal waters amid mangrove forest, spotting turtles and crabs as you float past in a kayak. For pure solitude at night, book into secluded Kingfisher Lodge, which has just 25 safari-style tents propped up on a private peninsula: glamping doesn’t get more glam than this. It’s worth waking early to salute the sun and linger as the pastel hues emerge over the beach: watch it unfold undisturbed from your bed, your personal plunge pool or your patio.

Lauren Keith travelled to Sharjah with support from Sharjah Commerce and Tourism Development Authority. Lonely Planet contributors do not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage.

https://shop.lonelyplanet.com/products/oman-uae-arabian-peninsula-5

‘Up there – can you see them?’ Scanning the evening sky above the jungle, they were alarmingly easy to spot: hundreds of Pteropus vampyrus – or flying foxes – out on an evening feeding mission. With a wingspan approaching 1.5m, the giant bats filled the horizon in a flapping black swarm.

It was my first night in southern Thailand’s Khao Sok National Park, and a dramatic introduction to the wildlife I knew lurked in this ancient rainforest.

Some say the biodiversity of Khao Sok exceeds that of the Amazon. Most agree that at over 160 million years old, the evergreen rainforest here is one of the oldest in the world. Whichever list it tops, the fact this 738-sq-km expanse of national park exists at all in its current state – alive with whooping gibbons, flashing hornbills and with such richness of flora and fauna that an entomologist on honeymoon once picked up a rock and discovered a new species – is something to be grateful for. And this biodiversity haven owes a few thanks to an unexpected twist of fate.

From 1975 to 1982, at a time when Thailand was losing 3% of its forest cover a year to the logging industry, a group of communist insurgents made a stronghold in the caves of Khao Sok. From here they acted out guerrilla warfare against the Thai government, inadvertently also keeping loggers, miners and hunters at the park’s fringes, allowing the jungle inside to thrive.

And thanks to them, thrive it does. Treetops shake with monkeys and birds, winged lizards bounce from branch to rock, and sky-high bamboo stalks bathe everything in a stripey green light.

Located inland between the Andaman and Gulf coasts, Khao Sok is often overlooked by travellers in favour of southern Thailand’s coastal resorts and islands. But for anyone wishing to swap beach beats for tranquil jungle trails, lake swimming, cool bat-filled caves and the chance to spot a wealth of indigenous species in their natural habitat, this secret garden is an easy getaway.

Swinging gibbons and tarantula nests: jungle trekking

Just being in the park means coming face to face with nature, but the best way to experience Khao Sok’s wild bounty is on a guided jungle trek. It is possible to trek independently and trails from the park headquarters are well-maintained and easy-to-follow, but the knowledge of the local guides will enhance your trip ten-fold. They’ll point out the woven funnel of a tarantula nest or the scratches on a tree made by a Malayan sun bear, and will give lessons on the jungle’s medicinal plants and birdsong.

Most of the big mammals in the park – wild elephants, sun bears, clouded leopards and tigers – will remain elusive to trekkers, but the cracking of jackfruit should soon alert you to the presence of primates. Long-tailed macaques are an almost guaranteed sight, with troupes making bold acrobatic displays right on the trail. White-handed gibbons and spectacled langurs are a rarer and more rewarding spot. Gibbons stick to the high branches making long, Tarzan-like swings through the trees; a joy to behold. Gaurs, tapirs and barking deer can sometimes be seen or heard, especially in the wet season (June to October).

On night safaris, the jungle takes on another persona as it squeaks and hisses with insects and some 30 bat species, including 8 varieties of megabat. This is also the time to look out for a tiny mouse deer, the smallest hooved animal in the world, or the big glassy eyes of a slow loris. When in bloom, special treks to see the Rafflesia kerrii are put into operation. With a diameter reaching 90cm, it’s the largest flower in the world, and, in Thailand, only grows in Khao Sok.

Raft houses and swimming in Chiaw Lan Lake

This vast 165-sq-km lake sprawls in the middle of the park, a sparkling blue jewel in the crown of its attractions. It’s a magical place where huge karst mountains rise from the water. Some reach over 900m – three times the height of those in Vietnam’s Halong Bay. The jungle growth at the lake’s edge shimmers emerald in the reflected light. It seems peculiar that something so naturally stunning could be a modern invention, but the lake was formed in 1982 when the Ratchaprapha Dam was constructed.

To fully appreciate the tranquility of the lake, an overnight stay in a floating raft house is a must, and access is by a thrilling long-tail boat ride across the vast lake. The accommodation is rustic, but this is more than made up for by glorious lake swimming and the dawn mist rolling over the water to the whoops of gibbon calls.

Bats and stalactites: cave tours

For fans of the dark delights of spelunking, there are several intriguing caves to visit, including Tham Si Ru – the cave used as a secret hideout by communist insurgents in the late 1970s. Two of the easier to access are Pra Kay Petch (Diamond) and Pakaran (Coral) caves, both of which include a long-tail boat or raft trip to the cave entrance, and fabulous rock formations inside.

A more intrepid experience is a guided trek through Nam Thalu cave. Not for the faint-hearted, the trek involves wading in subterranean streams through an increasingly narrow passage and should not be carried out in the rainy season when flash flooding is a real risk.

Make it happen

Khao Sok National Park is located inland from the Andaman Coast of southern Thailand, around two hours’ drive from Khao Lak, or an hour from Surat Thani. From Surat you can catch a bus going towards Takua Pa; from the Andaman Coast, take a Surat Thani-bound bus. Buses stop on Rte 401, 1.8km southwest of the park headquarters, which has useful maps for trekking and other information. Most visitors see the park on a two- or three-night organised tour which will usually include accommodation, activities such as trekking and caving as well as a stay in a floating raft house on Chiaw Lan Lake, and transfer from Surat Thani or Khao Lak. Tours can also be arranged with most of the lodges in the park itself. We recommend avoiding any package offering elephant riding.

Tour operators

Rainforest Camp specialises in luxury tented accommodation, both floating style on the lake, and in its Elephant Hills jungle lodge. Its two-night, three-day package (from THB 20,372) includes transfers, meals, a non-riding elephant interaction, guided trekking and a night on the lake.

Anurak Community Lodge is situated in a tranquil spot apart from the park’s main hub, and runs day tours including trips (but no overnight stay) to Chiaw Lan Lake, trekking, tubing and rafting on the Sok River. Its 18 bungalows (from THB 2900 a night, without activities) are surrounded by lush vegetation.

Rickshaw Travel is a UK-based operator specialising in immersive travel experiences. It offers a three-night, four-day tour of the park (from £468 per person), with transfers, accommodation in a community-run lodge, meals, an English-speaking guide and a night on a floating raft house on Chiaw Lan Lake. The Khao Sok trip is one of several short tours that can be combined into a longer holiday (a minimum of three trips is required for booking).

What to pack

• Light, breathable clothing

• Rain poncho or waterproof jacket

• Swimming costume and towel

• Sunglasses and hat

• Sturdy walking shoes or trainers with good tread

• Insect repellent (with DEET)

• Suncream

• Ear plugs

• Small torch

• Camera, charger and universal plug adaptor

• Daypack

Code of conduct

• Stick to existing hiking trails to avoid erosion

• Never chase or try to catch wildlife

• Take all litter with you, including cigarette ends

• There are no toilets on hiking trails; bury your waste and burn tissue

• Never cut down wood for fire making. Use dead branches

• Ensure fires are completely out and cleared before moving on

• Nudity causes offence in Thai culture; wear a modest swimming costume when bathing

Dora Ball travelled to Thailand with support from Rickshaw Travel. Lonely Planet contributors do not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage.